I appreciate your project. I went through 1000 videos with this specific project. Thanks a million. Wish me luck on my restore. My 1966 kitchen has 32 doors and 10 drawers.
THANK YOU! My next C-19 project was at a total standstill until your video. You were so patient. You carefully explained how to do each step so that even a novice like me can get your results. I did a test on a drawer front. Your process is perfect! Because you teach each step so patiently, I was able to replicate your professional results.
Thank you for the informative video. I appreciated the fast forward time lapse, instead of a quick edit or cut. I like your thoughtful replies. I too would like to see more women providing knowledgeable advice. Now I'm ready to start my cabinet project.
I wish I took before and after picks but about halfway done with the kitchen cabinets and it almost looks like a brand new kitchen. Thank you for the tutorial👌, my mom will be glad about her "new" kitchen.
Good music. Don't rush the stripper leave it on for a day. The more that comes up and the easier you scrape the less sanding and better end product. Don't sell the citrus salad short. It can actually break down hardened loctite. Toothpicks and bamboo skewers a wonderful tools for the nooks and crannies.
I have been searching for this exact tutorial for days. I'm trying to do exactly this with my new to me kitchen--I refuse to paint the oak--and for the life of me I could not find any info online regarding how to do it the right way. Thank you! This will be a long and painful process, but I'm going to try it.
It is no fun, but I was just talking to someone who had this done by a professional on their whole kitchen and it cost like 5 grand. So just keep that in the back of you mind the whole time hahaha.
I have honey stained oak cabinets and refuse to rid of them or paint over oak wood. I love my stained cabinets; they just need a restaining of same color, so I will strip them myself and in due time have better than new.
Great video. I really liked the detail you included. I would have changed the color to less orangey if possible, but I suppose the customer just wanted the same.
I don't have a video of the finished project because it was just these door fronts. They went to a cabinet under a kitchen sink, and over the years water had damaged the finish. She asked if I could just refinish the damaged doors and get them to match the rest. This was a lucky job in that it was a very common stain on there and they ended up being a pretty close match.
Thanks! If memory serves I think part of her issue was there was little to no overhang on her countertop. So water would drip directly onto the door fronts. But, replacing the countertop would have been a big expense.
No, she only wanted the faces done. These doors were right below the sink and over the years little bits of water had ruined the finish and she wanted them touched up. Usually if done properly in the fix place the interiors hold up much longer.
Sorry I’ve only ever used sawdust because I always have it on hand. I would imagine anything absorbent that lacks dyes would work. The dust is handy because since it is small particles it gets in nooks and crannies. I bet something like hamster bedding the paper kind would also work. In a bind a paper towel would work, just not as well.
Any advise on flipping these cabinet doors, (I have these exact ones) so that what was originally the inside part of the door could now be the outside of the cabinet door to take advantage of that perfect interior shaker style?
These were full overlay doors so the only big issue is going to be the routed edge. Which isn't even so much a structural issue, just that you will see a slight shadow where that routed edge is lifted off the face frame when you flip them. You can patch any holes from the old hardware mounts with putty. If you are staining them no putty matches/absorbs the stain perfectly, but the holes should be quite small. If you don't have European style hinges on the doors I would swap out the ones you have with the Euro Style. They are great and won't draw attention to the edges of the door since they are concealed. I have a video on my channel on how to install and mount full overlay doors with Euro hinges if you are not familiar with them.
I honestly do not use polyurethane anymore unless a customer specifically asks for it, which almost never happens. But I get those cheap plastic brushes for stuff like that. If it's a really large surface I sometimes use the pads that attach to a paint pole.
Your video was very informative. I am going to refinish my custom built cabinets made of veneer cabinet material and were maple stained and oil base poly finish applied. Now 47 yrs later with few water marks and wear around knobs, they need refinished. Will stripper damage the veneer? How would you refinish them? Thank you in advance.
Mineral spirits is a more refined version of paint thinner. I imagine it would work as well (maybe just a little slower) but in all honesty I’ve never tried it.
I love the tutorial. You make it look easy. I hope my project turns out as easy and beautiful as yours. I’m stripping and refinishing my bathroom cabinet. I’m using a minwax stain in a blue/grn hue. I’m not sure that I should use the pre-stain treatment, thinking it may change the desires color of the stain..?? Any thoughts about that?
If the cabinet is a fine grain lumber like maple or cherry definitely use the pre-stain to avoid blotchiness in the satin application. These cabinets were Oak and dense grain lumbers don't really need pre-stain but I still like to use it. I have not had any issues with it affecting the stain color. As it saturates the wood it changes the hue almost as if you put water on the lumber, but if you let it fully dry (I don't because i'm impatient) it dries completely and goes back to what it looked like before.
HoneyBadger WoodWorks, Thank you so much for the reply! My cabinet is also oak, and I think I will opt to use it, since it goes back to the lighter tone when dry. So grateful for your advise. You do great work. I’m hoping my goes as well. Have a great night!
I’ve been trying to find a video that involves both refinishing the veneer carcass/base along with real wood cabinet fronts. Any suggestions on how to do the veneer part of the kitchen cabinet?
The inner portion of these cabinets is veneered oak ply. It’s the same process you just have to be more careful to not sand through the veneer. Modern veneers can be quite thin and you can sand through it quite quickly. These were older cabinets and I had no problem with it.
Would you recommend removing the cabinet boxes to strip/sand/restain? Or would it be easier/better to leave them installed? I could hire someone to level them and rehang them if it would be better to take them off when refinishing.
If I was just stripping the faces I would leave them up and probably use a heat gun. I wouldn't use the chemical stripper inside. Even the heat gun won't smell great, but stripping flat thin stock is pretty quick work. If you want to do the insides as well doing that while they are hanging would be a pain.
@@HoneyBadgerWoodWorks Yeah ... I found your video and the comments too late. I am refinishing an old oak wet bar. I removed all the drawers and door fronts, then left the cabinet boxes (carcasses) in place. I used Safenol to strip them (it's a gel, so it doesn't drip much) and opened all the doors & windows. It was pretty miserable angling my body to reach into the far areas of the cabinets (the 'ceiling' and 'side' areas inside the cabs). I just figured it would be easier than it was ... Your video was great and your techniques are making my life so much easier.
There is a certain finish Id like to try. A Restoration Hardware finish that sort of looks like aged old french oak paneling. Do you have any advice for that if I showed you a pic?
Sure email me a picture honeybadgerwoodworksllc@gmail.com. Just a heads up a lot of those sorts of places have their own in house stains and finishes, and recreating them can be a real pain involving lots of trial and error.
It really depends on the condition of the finish that is already on there. With these they only had been finished once, so I only had one layer to take off. They were also newer cabinet doors, so I didn't have to deal with mysterious antique finishes that tend to be harder to remove. For these with ideal temperatures and drying conditions you could get it done in a weekend. But a lot of that time is waiting for the stain and poly to dry. Actually working time involving stripping and coating is only a few hours I would estimate.
Hello, did you also do the same process to the parts of the cabinet that are installed in the home, such as the wood face that the cabinet doors are attached to? Thanks!
What make of paint/varnish stripper were you using. Everything seemed to come off easily. I will try my best to buy it in England somehow. Amazing video. I will be able to tackle my oak kitchen cupboard doors with some confidence. Thank you.
I paint my kitchen cabinets in light gray but I don’t like how they look like. Do you think I could remove the paint and them do the whole process and the cabinets wood look like before?
Paint can be a little tougher, especially if the cabinets are a coarse grain lumber like oak. The color can get imbedded in the grain and be a little difficult to get out. The process in the video also works for removing paint, so if it was myself I would try it out on a "hidden" area. Something like the backside of the door and see if I can achieve the look I want, before moving forward.
Beautiful, great job ! Since the oak wood cabinets are out in style wondering if there is a grey paint which you can incorporate with this technique to have more like a wash look.
I enjoyed your video. I tried stripping my dark stained Acacia wood table to remove clear finish using Citrastrip. I covered with plastic wrap and let the stripper work for about 90 minutes. I cleaned with mineral spirits with a scouring pad, then again with a rag with another healthy amount of spirits. Waited 24 hrs to dry. I'm at raw wood after sanding with 80 grit and noticed the pores weeping or bleeding the dark stain (or mixture with the stripper), then eventually dried to the touch about 10 hours later. I neutralized it with more mineral spirits, came back 24 hours later and the pore bleeding continued, then dried again. I rubbed down again with spirits and left to dry 3 more days. This morning it has been 5 days since removing stripper, so I tried again to sand over what again looks to be hundreds of tiny stain dots that seemed to have dried. Nearly 30 seconds after sanding this morning, they come back again. What do you recommend I do?
My best guess is one of two things is happening. First, the wood could have absorb some of your stripper and it is slowly weeping out, in which case I would imagine it would eventually stop. Second, it could be you are having an issue with tannins in the lumber. I stripped a set of french doors years ago, when I got to bare wood everything was fine. Painted them and returned them to the customer. A few months later I got a call, the doors I painted white were pink. Tannins I had released bringing the lumber to bare wood were leeching through my paint and staining the white color pink. I had to sand them down and paint them again with a heavy duty stain/tannin blocking primer. Shellac should also work to stop the bleed.
Maybe my 3 applications of a lot of mineral spirits isn't allowing it to dry as fast. I just stripped the table leaves as an experiment, but last week was VERY humid and this week is very dry. That could play into it too. I'm wondering about sanding only for the rest of the table to sidestep this frustration with stripper and wet pores. I'll just go through a lot more sandpaper. It was a very dark factory stained table. I've read factory stains can be tricky to remove. I’ll let it dry for a while and come back with 120 grit and see if it comes back. After hours of research, I am leaning more towards trying water-based stain and finish. However, I read the fact that I used mineral spirits to neutralize and clean the stripper residue could prevent water-based stain from taking, as spirits are oil-based. I am wondering if sanding alone would remove the left over oil that may have soaked in from the spirits, or if I will need to definitely use denatured alcohol at this point. Because of these weeping pore issues, I’m considering removing the rest of the table’s finish by sanding only (sigh). Again, thank you.
Before I got into stripper I would use a heat gun to remove finish, That works really well, it can be slow, but gets the job done. Factory finishes can be tough because a lot of them are durable sprayed on finishes. If you knew what was on there like lacquer for example would come off easier with lacquer thinner. And all different woods react differently to stains and refinishing. Hence why I am super grateful to have enough furniture building projects to pass on the refinishing work to someone else at this point, it can just be a huge pain. I don't hate water based finishes, but for things like tables if they are high use I always prefer oil based for durability.
Sanding is the worst option for refinishing. The clear coat and the stain heat up when sanding and gum up the pads. I imagine this would work on gel stain, but admittedly have not tried it.
@@HoneyBadgerWoodWorks its actually a cabinet paint i was gonna use. I was told I can scuff the old gel stain cabinet prime it then paint over it. Does this sound about right
After stripping the oak cabinets, I will like to leave them at their natural wood color. Is there is away I can clear coat these directly without pre stain treatment or stain? Is there is anything like clear stain? Or will it ruin the cabinets? Will love to get guidance on this. Thank you for your time.
There is a natural stain on the market which is as close as it gets to clear stain. Anything you put on there will slightly change the color of the lumber though. Water based less then oil.
No, not really. Sanding any finish (especially older finishes) will heat up the surface. That turns whatever is on there into a goo, and within 30 seconds a sanding pad is usually full of melted finish and now garbage.
what colour of wood stain did you use? Seems to be like it didn't change the natural colour of the oak very much. I'm looking to refinish my oak dinning room table set and am debating whether I even need a stain.
I honestly don't remember the color. The customer provided me with the stain. It was a Rustoleum stain and if I had to guess it was probably the summer oak.
Can you please tell me if there’s a way to neutralize the orange tones in sienna stained cabinets? I spent a bunch of money on brand new cabinets with a sienna stain . I HATE them now . They’re rustic beech cabinets . I love the wood grain and the rustic look . I just wish I’d chosen a clear coat with no stain at all. I let my boyfriend and the seller tell me that I wouldn’t get the wood grain if I just chose a clear coat and no stain . Now I feel like I’m stuck with orange cabinets. A clear coat would have been stunning. What can I do to at least neutralize the orange ? I’d rather not strip them and I can’t send them back . Its too late . Is there a clear coat that neutralizes orange tones ? Thank you so much 😊
There is not much I know of that you can do in that situation without at a minimum removing the top coat. If you got the top coat off you could try re staining. To mute oranges you can stain with a cool complementary color like green or blue to tone down the orange. But without taking that topcoat off you can't stain again. And while if it were me and I really hated them, I might try playing around with tinting top coats in an area you don't see, but I really have no experience with that.
Personally I would try getting the tacky stain off with some mineral spirits. Full disclosure I have never tried that, but if I was in your shoes that is what I would try first.
I buy whatever Pre-stain is in the store, they are all about the same. I believe that one was by Minwax. The customer had picked out the stain for this so it is a Rustoleum stain. Then clear coated with A Minwax Polyurethane, the sheen is your choice. All these brands are at the big box stores and preform about the same. There are better products, but they cost more and are usually only available online or specialty stores.
I wrap them in a plastic bag, depending they can last weeks that way. I have heard putting them wrapped in the freezer works as well, but have never tried that myself.
I used sand paper folded in half and roll into a pen sized tube. And a sanding block wraped with sand paper,use the edge of the block n slide it up n down on tht concave edge. The sanding block is kinda spongy n will form the shape if the edge..
Very informative video. However, since I have to turn the volume down during the music, I usually miss your first remarks. Please make a better balance for future videos.
I don't remember how much I charged for this, and I don't do a lot of refinishing work anymore because in all honestly it is no fun. If I had to gander a guess I would say this was in the two hundred range.
I just started my cabinets. Started 7 doors this weekend. After following directions I saw somewhere else online and the guy at big box store, I used steel wool after the scrapper. Now I have a bunch of black spots on the oak cabinets. At first I thought it was mold. Now I find out it may be bits of the steel wool. Help! How do I fix this? I'm only about 1/4 thru all the doors. I tried CLR. Still bad today. I hope I didn't ruin them. Hubby is disabled vet, can't afford to buy new doors or someone to do it
If it's steel wool stuck in the wood grain, that has happened to me before and the only good way to remove it is to pick it out. But, you can tell pretty easily if it's steel wool versus a stain, plus the steel wool will look more so like gray fuzzies on the surface and happens more often on rough lumbers. Metal can stain wood black (so will water), but that it usually from prolonged exposure. Maybe you can send me a photo of the problem my email is honeybadgerwoodworksllc@gmail.com so I can better see what happened. If it is an iron oxide stain from water/metal there are products you can use to remove the marks.
@@HoneyBadgerWoodWorks I was able to try barkeeper's friend in one back panel. It worked great. It does lighten the wood, but that just means the new stain won't have the orange look. I think it was a black stain. I think the steel wool reacted with the stripper. Not good.
Very practical video, thank you! As the video is already 4 years old, I think it needs to be said that there are ecologically acceptable stripper, which are absolutely effective. They may just need to sit longer on the wood, so it is a bit of time planning: Put the stripper on, then work on other project, and the next day you take it off and continue to work on that project. So if you can afford it, do not buy the cheapest stripper but the environmental friendly one. This ist better for your health and also for the environment you and we all live in :-)
Really appreciate this video. For a feedback note, you talk so quietly compared to the speedup music, that I was constantly turning it up to hear what you were saying and then rushing to turn it back down when the music blew out my eardrums. Please turn the music down a bit. Otherwise a fantastic and helpful video. Thanks so much!
Its easier to use a 4inch putty knife, takes alot more off in just a few scraps, plasticd putty knife work great but wear out quick. Found Watco paint and poly remover is best n cost cheap. Looks like it got more off my cabinet than your product did. And for the corners and edges, sum steel wool works best. Saw dust is a bit extreme n very messy.... seen tht steel brush n my brain screeched NO lol steel wool will work too.
Damn !! I thought you were going to be the one stripping . I stayed anyway , you do great work . Thanks for the video No disrespect meant to you btw, just playing around.
I appreciate your project. I went through 1000 videos with this specific project. Thanks a million. Wish me luck on my restore. My 1966 kitchen has 32 doors and 10 drawers.
finally someone who took the time to properly explain the process. Thank you
THANK YOU! My next C-19 project was at a total standstill until your video. You were so patient. You carefully explained how to do each step so that even a novice like me can get your results. I did a test on a drawer front. Your process is perfect! Because you teach each step so patiently, I was able to replicate your professional results.
Nice! Super happy it helped!
Finally the video I needed for stripping and restaining. Thank you!
Thank you for the informative video. I appreciated the fast forward time lapse, instead of a quick edit or cut. I like your thoughtful replies. I too would like to see more women providing knowledgeable advice. Now I'm ready to start my cabinet project.
Thanks!
I wish I took before and after picks but about halfway done with the kitchen cabinets and it almost looks like a brand new kitchen. Thank you for the tutorial👌, my mom will be glad about her "new" kitchen.
Nice, yeah it's a lot of work, but the end product is very satisfying.
She explained doing the details very well.
Good music.
Don't rush the stripper leave it on for a day. The more that comes up and the easier you scrape the less sanding and better end product.
Don't sell the citrus salad short. It can actually break down hardened loctite. Toothpicks and bamboo skewers a wonderful tools for the nooks and crannies.
I have been searching for this exact tutorial for days. I'm trying to do exactly this with my new to me kitchen--I refuse to paint the oak--and for the life of me I could not find any info online regarding how to do it the right way. Thank you! This will be a long and painful process, but I'm going to try it.
It is no fun, but I was just talking to someone who had this done by a professional on their whole kitchen and it cost like 5 grand. So just keep that in the back of you mind the whole time hahaha.
HoneyBadger WoodWorks oh man! Yeah, definitely worth the effort then! Ha!
How did it go?
I have honey stained oak cabinets and refuse to rid of them or paint over oak wood. I love my stained cabinets; they just need a restaining of same color, so I will strip them myself and in due time have better than new.
@@Deuteronomy-uw8ls really well. It’s been two years and I’m still very happy with the results.
Great video. I really liked the detail you included. I would have changed the color to less orangey if possible, but I suppose the customer just wanted the same.
Yeah they picked the color to match the rest of the kitchen.
Thanks. Great instructional video and nice to see something from a woman. So many dudes on UA-cam.
Thanks!
Way too many dudes with the wrong technique on UA-cam.
Excellent video Im doing interior trim and sanding and going to use a gel stain over previous varnished surface, very tedious work varnished
Refinishing is the most tedious work.
What if the stripper doesnt bubble? Should I still scrape after 30 min?? Thanks for the great video!
Beautiful work
Thank you, you answered a lot of questions I had
Beautiful work. Thanks for doing the video.
What detail instructions you have shared! Do you have a video on the whole finished project? Was it for a kitchen?
I don't have a video of the finished project because it was just these door fronts. They went to a cabinet under a kitchen sink, and over the years water had damaged the finish. She asked if I could just refinish the damaged doors and get them to match the rest. This was a lucky job in that it was a very common stain on there and they ended up being a pretty close match.
@@HoneyBadgerWoodWorks You did a wonderful job! I have the same problem with the doors under the sink.
Thanks! If memory serves I think part of her issue was there was little to no overhang on her countertop. So water would drip directly onto the door fronts. But, replacing the countertop would have been a big expense.
Your awesome. Great video
I am getting ready to refinish my cabinets in my kitchen and have been dreading it. Thanks to your video I dont feel so bad about doing it.
It's not a fun job, but it isn't super hard and will save you a TON of money. Just make sure you have good tunes!
Great Job!
I have the exact same cabinet doors, do the inside the same way?? What a huge project...
No, she only wanted the faces done. These doors were right below the sink and over the years little bits of water had ruined the finish and she wanted them touched up. Usually if done properly in the fix place the interiors hold up much longer.
What can be used in place of sawdust?
Sorry I’ve only ever used sawdust because I always have it on hand. I would imagine anything absorbent that lacks dyes would work. The dust is handy because since it is small particles it gets in nooks and crannies. I bet something like hamster bedding the paper kind would also work. In a bind a paper towel would work, just not as well.
Any advise on flipping these cabinet doors, (I have these exact ones) so that what was originally the inside part of the door could now be the outside of the cabinet door to take advantage of that perfect interior shaker style?
These were full overlay doors so the only big issue is going to be the routed edge. Which isn't even so much a structural issue, just that you will see a slight shadow where that routed edge is lifted off the face frame when you flip them. You can patch any holes from the old hardware mounts with putty. If you are staining them no putty matches/absorbs the stain perfectly, but the holes should be quite small. If you don't have European style hinges on the doors I would swap out the ones you have with the Euro Style. They are great and won't draw attention to the edges of the door since they are concealed. I have a video on my channel on how to install and mount full overlay doors with Euro hinges if you are not familiar with them.
Great video.
Thanks!!! I'll do mine too now!
thank you so much easy to understand and follow
Hi, great video. What product, tool do you use for applying the polyurethane to large vertical areas? Thank you in advance.
I honestly do not use polyurethane anymore unless a customer specifically asks for it, which almost never happens. But I get those cheap plastic brushes for stuff like that. If it's a really large surface I sometimes use the pads that attach to a paint pole.
@@HoneyBadgerWoodWorks I just realized this video is a bit more than couple of years old. But still very relevant. Thank you for the reply.
Your video was very informative. I am going to refinish my custom built cabinets made of veneer cabinet material and were maple stained and oil base poly finish applied. Now 47 yrs later with few water marks and wear around knobs, they need refinished. Will stripper damage the veneer? How would you refinish them? Thank you in advance.
Can I use mineral spirits in place of paint thinner between coats of polyurethane? Is it the same thing?
Mineral spirits is a more refined version of paint thinner. I imagine it would work as well (maybe just a little slower) but in all honesty I’ve never tried it.
I love the tutorial. You make it look easy. I hope my project turns out as easy and beautiful as yours. I’m stripping and refinishing my bathroom cabinet. I’m using a minwax stain in a blue/grn hue. I’m not sure that I should use the pre-stain treatment, thinking it may change the desires color of the stain..?? Any thoughts about that?
If the cabinet is a fine grain lumber like maple or cherry definitely use the pre-stain to avoid blotchiness in the satin application. These cabinets were Oak and dense grain lumbers don't really need pre-stain but I still like to use it. I have not had any issues with it affecting the stain color. As it saturates the wood it changes the hue almost as if you put water on the lumber, but if you let it fully dry (I don't because i'm impatient) it dries completely and goes back to what it looked like before.
HoneyBadger WoodWorks, Thank you so much for the reply! My cabinet is also oak, and I think I will opt to use it, since it goes back to the lighter tone when dry. So grateful for your advise. You do great work. I’m hoping my goes as well. Have a great night!
I’ve been trying to find a video that involves both refinishing the veneer carcass/base along with real wood cabinet fronts. Any suggestions on how to do the veneer part of the kitchen cabinet?
The inner portion of these cabinets is veneered oak ply. It’s the same process you just have to be more careful to not sand through the veneer. Modern veneers can be quite thin and you can sand through it quite quickly. These were older cabinets and I had no problem with it.
Would you recommend removing the cabinet boxes to strip/sand/restain? Or would it be easier/better to leave them installed? I could hire someone to level them and rehang them if it would be better to take them off when refinishing.
If I was just stripping the faces I would leave them up and probably use a heat gun. I wouldn't use the chemical stripper inside. Even the heat gun won't smell great, but stripping flat thin stock is pretty quick work. If you want to do the insides as well doing that while they are hanging would be a pain.
@@HoneyBadgerWoodWorks Thanks!
@@HoneyBadgerWoodWorks Yeah ... I found your video and the comments too late. I am refinishing an old oak wet bar. I removed all the drawers and door fronts, then left the cabinet boxes (carcasses) in place. I used Safenol to strip them (it's a gel, so it doesn't drip much) and opened all the doors & windows. It was pretty miserable angling my body to reach into the far areas of the cabinets (the 'ceiling' and 'side' areas inside the cabs). I just figured it would be easier than it was ... Your video was great and your techniques are making my life so much easier.
Very informative, I may do this to our cabinets, however they are t really in bad shape, now I’m talking myself out of it. 😆
hahahaha not gonna lie it's a crap job and easy to talk yourself out of hahahaha. But, worth the effort if you can find the motivation.
There is a certain finish Id like to try. A Restoration Hardware finish that sort of looks like aged old french oak paneling. Do you have any advice for that if I showed you a pic?
Sure email me a picture honeybadgerwoodworksllc@gmail.com. Just a heads up a lot of those sorts of places have their own in house stains and finishes, and recreating them can be a real pain involving lots of trial and error.
So about how long per door for the full strip and then restrain and poly?
It really depends on the condition of the finish that is already on there. With these they only had been finished once, so I only had one layer to take off. They were also newer cabinet doors, so I didn't have to deal with mysterious antique finishes that tend to be harder to remove. For these with ideal temperatures and drying conditions you could get it done in a weekend. But a lot of that time is waiting for the stain and poly to dry. Actually working time involving stripping and coating is only a few hours I would estimate.
Hello, did you also do the same process to the parts of the cabinet that are installed in the home, such as the wood face that the cabinet doors are attached to? Thanks!
Yeah I would do it the exact same way, unless the cabinet frames are melamine or coated wood, then this wouldn't work.
Great tutorial!
What make of paint/varnish stripper were you using. Everything seemed to come off easily. I will try my best to buy it in England somehow. Amazing video. I will be able to tackle my oak kitchen cupboard doors with some confidence. Thank you.
It's Klean Strip. One of those rare circumstances where one of the less expensive brands works the best.
@@HoneyBadgerWoodWorks A company in USA say they cannot parcel the item as it is flammable. I will try flap wheel.
Maybe this will help : darimo.co.uk/best-paint-stripper/
I paint my kitchen cabinets in light gray but I don’t like how they look like. Do you think I could remove the paint and them do the whole process and the cabinets wood look like before?
Paint can be a little tougher, especially if the cabinets are a coarse grain lumber like oak. The color can get imbedded in the grain and be a little difficult to get out. The process in the video also works for removing paint, so if it was myself I would try it out on a "hidden" area. Something like the backside of the door and see if I can achieve the look I want, before moving forward.
Beautiful, great job ! Since the oak wood cabinets are out in style wondering if there is a grey paint which you can incorporate with this technique to have more like a wash look.
They actually sell a grey stain that I have used an like the results of.
I enjoyed your video. I tried stripping my dark stained Acacia wood table to remove clear finish using Citrastrip. I covered with plastic wrap and let the stripper work for about 90 minutes. I cleaned with mineral spirits with a scouring pad, then again with a rag with another healthy amount of spirits. Waited 24 hrs to dry. I'm at raw wood after sanding with 80 grit and noticed the pores weeping or bleeding the dark stain (or mixture with the stripper), then eventually dried to the touch about 10 hours later. I neutralized it with more mineral spirits, came back 24 hours later and the pore bleeding continued, then dried again. I rubbed down again with spirits and left to dry 3 more days. This morning it has been 5 days since removing stripper, so I tried again to sand over what again looks to be hundreds of tiny stain dots that seemed to have dried. Nearly 30 seconds after sanding this morning, they come back again. What do you recommend I do?
My best guess is one of two things is happening. First, the wood could have absorb some of your stripper and it is slowly weeping out, in which case I would imagine it would eventually stop. Second, it could be you are having an issue with tannins in the lumber. I stripped a set of french doors years ago, when I got to bare wood everything was fine. Painted them and returned them to the customer. A few months later I got a call, the doors I painted white were pink. Tannins I had released bringing the lumber to bare wood were leeching through my paint and staining the white color pink. I had to sand them down and paint them again with a heavy duty stain/tannin blocking primer. Shellac should also work to stop the bleed.
Maybe my 3 applications of a lot of mineral spirits isn't allowing it to dry as fast. I just stripped the table leaves as an experiment, but last week was VERY humid and this week is very dry. That could play into it too. I'm wondering about sanding only for the rest of the table to sidestep this frustration with stripper and wet pores. I'll just go through a lot more sandpaper. It was a very dark factory stained table. I've read factory stains can be tricky to remove. I’ll let it dry for a while and come back with 120 grit and see if it comes back. After hours of research, I am leaning more towards trying water-based stain and finish. However, I read the fact that I used mineral spirits to neutralize and clean the stripper residue could prevent water-based stain from taking, as spirits are oil-based. I am wondering if sanding alone would remove the left over oil that may have soaked in from the spirits, or if I will need to definitely use denatured alcohol at this point. Because of these weeping pore issues, I’m considering removing the rest of the table’s finish by sanding only (sigh). Again, thank you.
Before I got into stripper I would use a heat gun to remove finish, That works really well, it can be slow, but gets the job done. Factory finishes can be tough because a lot of them are durable sprayed on finishes. If you knew what was on there like lacquer for example would come off easier with lacquer thinner. And all different woods react differently to stains and refinishing. Hence why I am super grateful to have enough furniture building projects to pass on the refinishing work to someone else at this point, it can just be a huge pain. I don't hate water based finishes, but for things like tables if they are high use I always prefer oil based for durability.
Is this better than sanding. Will this product work on gel stain cabinets
Sanding is the worst option for refinishing. The clear coat and the stain heat up when sanding and gum up the pads. I imagine this would work on gel stain, but admittedly have not tried it.
@@HoneyBadgerWoodWorks its actually a cabinet paint i was gonna use. I was told I can scuff the old gel stain cabinet prime it then paint over it. Does this sound about right
After stripping the oak cabinets, I will like to leave them at their natural wood color. Is there is away I can clear coat these directly without pre stain treatment or stain? Is there is anything like clear stain? Or will it ruin the cabinets? Will love to get guidance on this. Thank you for your time.
There is a natural stain on the market which is as close as it gets to clear stain. Anything you put on there will slightly change the color of the lumber though. Water based less then oil.
Can you use the sander without using the stripper?
No, not really. Sanding any finish (especially older finishes) will heat up the surface. That turns whatever is on there into a goo, and within 30 seconds a sanding pad is usually full of melted finish and now garbage.
For this beautiful finish can you let us know what number polyurethane did you pick, as I see so many variations in the store?
Don’t know what you mean by number.
what colour of wood stain did you use? Seems to be like it didn't change the natural colour of the oak very much. I'm looking to refinish my oak dinning room table set and am debating whether I even need a stain.
I honestly don't remember the color. The customer provided me with the stain. It was a Rustoleum stain and if I had to guess it was probably the summer oak.
Can you please tell me if there’s a way to neutralize the orange tones in sienna stained cabinets? I spent a bunch of money on brand new cabinets with a sienna stain . I HATE them now . They’re rustic beech cabinets . I love the wood grain and the rustic look . I just wish I’d chosen a clear coat with no stain at all. I let my boyfriend and the seller tell me that I wouldn’t get the wood grain if I just chose a clear coat and no stain . Now I feel like I’m stuck with orange cabinets. A clear coat would have been stunning. What can I do to at least neutralize the orange ? I’d rather not strip them and I can’t send them back . Its too late . Is there a clear coat that neutralizes orange tones ? Thank you so much 😊
There is not much I know of that you can do in that situation without at a minimum removing the top coat. If you got the top coat off you could try re staining. To mute oranges you can stain with a cool complementary color like green or blue to tone down the orange. But without taking that topcoat off you can't stain again. And while if it were me and I really hated them, I might try playing around with tinting top coats in an area you don't see, but I really have no experience with that.
hard to hear - especially the stripper name and what she used to absorb the excess stripper. Was it sawdust?
Sawdust.
what should i do if i left too much stain on? it's not drying :( do i have to re-sand?
Personally I would try getting the tacky stain off with some mineral spirits. Full disclosure I have never tried that, but if I was in your shoes that is what I would try first.
Can I get the name of the pre stain and the stain to use to get the wood shiny
I buy whatever Pre-stain is in the store, they are all about the same. I believe that one was by Minwax. The customer had picked out the stain for this so it is a Rustoleum stain. Then clear coated with A Minwax Polyurethane, the sheen is your choice. All these brands are at the big box stores and preform about the same. There are better products, but they cost more and are usually only available online or specialty stores.
How do you store your brushes if have to wait overnight?
I wrap them in a plastic bag, depending they can last weeks that way. I have heard putting them wrapped in the freezer works as well, but have never tried that myself.
Would you recommend a dremel for those curved edges?
Only with a sanding bit, anything else would remove the material way too quickly.
I used sand paper folded in half and roll into a pen sized tube. And a sanding block wraped with sand paper,use the edge of the block n slide it up n down on tht concave edge. The sanding block is kinda spongy n will form the shape if the edge..
Great awesome video
Very informative video. However, since I have to turn the volume down during the music, I usually miss your first remarks. Please make a better balance for future videos.
Yeah, I have cut the music out completely in these information videos. unfortunately, there is no way to change the old ones or I would.
I plan to strip and sand my cabinets exactly how you've done. But I'm going with Danish oil for my finish. Should I still use a prestain conditioner?
I personally have never used prestain before oil. At least I don't think I have. Let's go with current and future me wouldn't use it before oil.
Where can I buy that stripper?
I got the stripper at Walmart. have tried some other brands, but this one is the best I have tried.
How much do you charge to strip and refinish a set
I don't remember how much I charged for this, and I don't do a lot of refinishing work anymore because in all honestly it is no fun. If I had to gander a guess I would say this was in the two hundred range.
Sawdust idea is fukin legit
Hahahahahaha.
I just started my cabinets. Started 7 doors this weekend. After following directions I saw somewhere else online and the guy at big box store, I used steel wool after the scrapper. Now I have a bunch of black spots on the oak cabinets. At first I thought it was mold. Now I find out it may be bits of the steel wool. Help! How do I fix this? I'm only about 1/4 thru all the doors. I tried CLR. Still bad today. I hope I didn't ruin them. Hubby is disabled vet, can't afford to buy new doors or someone to do it
If it's steel wool stuck in the wood grain, that has happened to me before and the only good way to remove it is to pick it out. But, you can tell pretty easily if it's steel wool versus a stain, plus the steel wool will look more so like gray fuzzies on the surface and happens more often on rough lumbers. Metal can stain wood black (so will water), but that it usually from prolonged exposure. Maybe you can send me a photo of the problem my email is honeybadgerwoodworksllc@gmail.com so I can better see what happened. If it is an iron oxide stain from water/metal there are products you can use to remove the marks.
@@HoneyBadgerWoodWorks I was able to try barkeeper's friend in one back panel. It worked great. It does lighten the wood, but that just means the new stain won't have the orange look. I think it was a black stain. I think the steel wool reacted with the stripper. Not good.
Very practical video, thank you!
As the video is already 4 years old, I think it needs to be said that there are ecologically acceptable stripper, which are absolutely effective. They may just need to sit longer on the wood, so it is a bit of time planning: Put the stripper on, then work on other project, and the next day you take it off and continue to work on that project. So if you can afford it, do not buy the cheapest stripper but the environmental friendly one. This ist better for your health and also for the environment you and we all live in :-)
Really appreciate this video. For a feedback note, you talk so quietly compared to the speedup music, that I was constantly turning it up to hear what you were saying and then rushing to turn it back down when the music blew out my eardrums. Please turn the music down a bit. Otherwise a fantastic and helpful video. Thanks so much!
Really good informative video however, the music was so much louder than your talking I had to adjust the volume every time it came on.
Yeah I know the sound on these earlier videos is problematic. Unfortunately, there is not much I can do about it without deleting the video.
Its easier to use a 4inch putty knife, takes alot more off in just a few scraps, plasticd putty knife work great but wear out quick. Found Watco paint and poly remover is best n cost cheap. Looks like it got more off my cabinet than your product did. And for the corners and edges, sum steel wool works best. Saw dust is a bit extreme n very messy.... seen tht steel brush n my brain screeched NO lol steel wool will work too.
I can't hear you very well.
SAFETY GEAR>>>>>????
Beautiful work I didn't see any personal protection equipment. Not saying just saying
Damn !!
I thought you were going to be the one stripping .
I stayed anyway , you do great work .
Thanks for the video
No disrespect meant to you btw, just playing around.
music TOO LOUD
I can make it myself. Just got instructions from woodprix website and I'm ready for do it :D
While you provide a good tutorial the volume of your voice is poor.
I would highly advise using gloves. These are nasty chemicals that do get absorbed through your skin.
Hmmm I finally followed Robert's advice and took WoodPrix instructions. It's great for beginners, and has some advanced stuff too.