Matt, I’d love for you guys to produce a checklist that a homeowner could go over with a GC prior to build so it’s easy to communicate what type of build we want. Builders in my area just don’t typically like you do…yet!
Funny you say that. I’m working on something to release next year. Stay tuned. My team has about 80 hours into it so far. More work to go, but I’m excited about it.
Get ready to pay. And in some markets if it's under 100k population you may have problems finding people with experience so you'll pay to train the crews.
You know my buddy Joe Lstiburek has this analogy that, ‘if you don’t watch a Matt Risinger build show and he doesn’t mention my jacket or my ribs, then it’s not a Matt Risnger build show.” 😂😂 Just teasing!! 😉 you saved my house, I am eternally grateful🙏🏼 just mix it up my friend :) 👍🏼
You probably know, but I think you should consider continuing that exterior insulation down on the fondation. Even tough, it’s not a basement, insulating the foundation from the outside could help with thermal bridging. Keep it up
Would like to see monopoly framing with exterior rockwool. Building next year on our lot in a wooded subdivision. Given the termites around in the area, especially with large wooded lots, cant bring myself to do foam on house that will last generations
Love it! Thank you. And also thank you for responding to my email back in late September that used your prospective contractor questionnaire. You helped me keep my standards high and not settle for less. Viewers should check out that episode!
You might want to cover one of Joe L's lecture topics on getting the ratio right. The ratio controls where the condensation occurs and you need to make sure that relative to your climate zone you choose the right ratio or you'll rot your walls by accident because they won't dry.
@@PatrickKQ4HBD I believe he mans the ratio of continuous Insulation to cavity insulation. That ratio moves the dew point, so it's important that the dewpoint is on the right side of the WRB and you don't get condensation inside the cavity wall.
When you do exterior insulation, the typical depth into the wall (from the outside) where condensate can build up only moves outwards as you add thicker insulation. Also to add to this, the more layers you have with plastic or aluminum facing, the greater chance the condensate has to wick across that layer boundary.
Exterior insulation makes a lot of sense, even for a SIPs build, because even they have thermal breaks at the joints, especially when they have metal joints, and exterior insulation sure really makes sense on a remodel. You're right, it is always wise to write a list of the details, and check those off in order.
I saw a video from the UK about exterior insulation over an existing brick building using interlocking panels. The brick's thermal mass will help a lot.
Many commercial buildings in the US use insulation over concrete blocks topped with EFIS. That puts the thermal mass inside the insulation. It is not common in housing, though.
@@BadGolfer-c9c Many old brick buildings, especially old farmhouses, have little or no insulation. Retrofitting with exterior insulation seems like an opportunity.
Hey Matt with the level of detail and complexity in the wall assembly, you need to keep a copy of the drawing(s) showing the wall details on site, and every time you go to "touch" the wall assembly, look at the drawings to see if you forgot something. the bottom of wall detail would have shown you that the insect screen needs to be attached before the rigid insulation gets installed.
Yeah, that would be a good thing to know. Yeah it give a nice look out if you move that window all the way out to the outside make it look more like oh a bay window or a box window.
The "innie" window is more energy efficient and creates a nice shadow line in the facade, but it's harder to detail. "Outie" windows are simpler to detail and create a larger sill inside, at the cost of lower energy efficiency and a less attractive exterior.
@@stevenlight5006 The furring strips get screwed into the studs through the foam. If you're curious, there are charts out there on maximum thickness of 15 psi foam for different weights of siding, fastener type, and fastener patterns.
@@stevenlight5006the 1x4 strips are secured with 6" screws through the insulation and into the studs - the position of the studs is marked with a chalk line and a laser. Then the siding is secured to the 1x4s according to how the manufacturer recommends.
This system begs to answer vapor transfer issues as I'm in a cold climate. This system effectively has two vapor barriers, one facing inside the other outside. That is a concern! And what is the value of the one facing the interior ? Not radiation. Basically I'm concerned with the science of using these panels and how the total system was designed from interior to exterior. Did you get a design detail section indicating materials R values, dew point , etc .. Would love to see it.
We do this in the UK but instead of sheathing board for racking we use connector plates and webs like a roof truss then cover with vapour control layer for water, air and vapour control then we fix the insulation on with insulation screws which help to reduce cold bridging. We tend to have a cavity and brick in the uk but we're just doing a project now with 100mm/4" polyiso and battens with timber cladding.
Very good video, thanks. Could I just mention, when you state you are adding additional insulation in the stud cavity on the interior, saving money is possible as a vapour barrier is not required on the inside if the insulation ratio is 2/3 exterior to 1/3 interior. If less than that, a smart or permeable vapour barrier such an Intello or other would be needed. It sounded like you were going to add a lot of insulation on the inside but I didn't hear anything about an interior vapour barrier. Might be helpful so someone can determine whether to use 2 vapour barriers or one.
What is the r value of the windows? I was blown away when I recently saw some information on the negative impact to the thermal resistance of the complete wall assembly windows cause. A surprising detail was the fact that increasing the wall insulation, even doubling it, had very little effect on the r value of the entire wall assembly if low performance windows were part of the assembly. Basically a typical house built with regular r 1.5 windows could be built with r 13, r21 or even r30 walls but the total wall assembly r value improved only a point or two with the thicker insulation and no real insulation benefit could be measured until the windows r value is over r4.
Windows and doors are typically rated in U value, the inverse of R value... High efficiency windows aren't much better than standard double pane with e-coating... When factoring in total wall envelope. Also the type of window opening style makes a huge difference. Horizontal and vertical sliders are the worst with closed being the best. Smaller, more square windows are also better, while larger or skinny windows worse.
R-60 is the recommended insulation value for any surface without restrictions. Passivhaus demonstrates how that can be done for prices comparable to more uncomfortable insulation practices of the past.
I have a dream. That is to take my crappy 90s Bill Milburn house in Austin and energy retrofit it with outsulation like this. The house is clad with brick on the front and halfway up both sides. The back and upper sides are hardboard siding that is falling apart. I also want to reframe the window openings in front - they are too big and have these trite arches that need to get gone. My plan would be to apply liquid flash over all the brick and reframed window openings. The siding would be removed, pink insulation replaced with Rockwool and then covered with Zip panels. Seams between brick and Zip would be sealed, natch. Then cover the whole thing with thick rigid Rockwool - maybe 8 inches. All of that is covered with corrugated galvalume panels and maybe some other unconventional cladding materials for esthetics. The roof overhangs would be cut to be even with the cladding, so no overhangs (similar to Matt's Perfect Wall House). Additionally the interior walls with brick on the outside would have the drywall pulled down so new inulation could be inserted. This will be necessary for sure on the front wall since the big dumb arched windows have leaked into the walls for years and there will be some repairs needed.
I would still ideally want that air-water barrier to be outboard of the external insulation. The sweater outside the gore-tex jacket doesn't help much if it gets soaked itself and the wind can blow through it (though this might be more true for comfort board than those polyiso sheets.) For a stick-built home, my ideal would be a 2x12 treated base plate with another 2x8 base plate on top of that toward the inside. Frame with 2x8s or 2x8 T-studs 16" on center. Sheath with 1" plywood and use some of those Simpson strong ties through this sheathing, through the 2x8, and into the double base plate (use 2x the anchor bolts into the concrete.) That's a strong wall. Inside the 2x8s, spray 3.5" of closed cell foam, and top that with an R15 Rockwool batt. Outside, where you still have 3" of 2x12 to work with, put your 2 layers of 1.5" polyiso sheets just like Matt does here. You don't really need to screw them down though.. just primer that inner layer of sheathing and use 3M spray adhesive to stick them to the wall and to each other. THEN comes your final layer of sheathing. Either ZIP board or plywood plus AlumaFlash (UV40) for your barrier. I like the UV40 because you can run screws through your external sheathing, 3" of polyiso, then into the 1" internal sheathing and the studs, and THEN cover it all up with that peel & stick house wrap. Your framers may grumble, but you can reward them, and you would have an R60 wall that would probably stand up to an EF3 tornado, especially if you face it with rock, as you should.
@@MrRobertjparsons Yep, it definitely is not on the inexpensive side as wall assemblies go, but look at the silly things some people spend their money on. If it were a choice, I'd rather have a strong, tight, well insulated house.
Hold your knife on the end of the tape measure. Safe a step. Also, what material was used to box out/ extend what appears to be outlets under the windows. As always, Matt, great details.
I have a smart home business in Alaska. But since I found this channel early in the pandemic, I have become obsessed with building science. The lack of caring or knowledge or both among the contractors is staggering. I really wish there was more info or videos for cold climates like ours. Hint, hint.
Matt, as a homeowner, how do I get the trade crews to actually do the job right? I believed I had found an honest contractor but his crews were terrible. Their tin-snip cuts were sloppy and their caulking was even worse.
6 inches is pretty extreme, that would require 8" screws for the furring strips, and more of them than typical due to vertical bending moment. Also your total wall insulation value would have diminishing returns if the wall has windows and doors. Even the most advanced doors and windows have poor insulation compared to even basic walls...glass even triple paned with e coating isn't good
Does any manufacturer make a thick "tongue and groove" exterior rigid foam that doesn't require two layers to keep the seams from opening when it shrinks? It would seem like you'd save half your installation costs with a thicker board that can be installed in one step.
You can buy 6" polyiso boards that lock together covered with 24 GA sheet metal both sides. That's what I have on my walls over 8" poured in place concrete. Kind of expensive but very energy efficient.
It's worth mentioning that, up north at least, the requirement for exterior insulation can drive one to go no less than 3" in thickness to negate the need for an interior vapor retarder. Also worth noting is that the performance of a polyiso sheet degrades significantly in colder temperatures whereas EPS or XPS will start performing better since these sheets get their R value at around 70 degrees or so. I wonder if those windows are custom ordered for those thick bucks? If it's Matt's own house, then rhe answer is yes. 😂
Thanks for the excellent content and instruction Matt (as always)! I'm curious when it comes to the bug screen. If you're placing the bug screen at the bottom of the insulation to prevent insects from boring into it, should other locations of exposure be considered as well? I'm thinking of places like the tops of penetrations specifically where you can't easily abut the insulation against, like windows, that Aquor hose bib box you have or anywhere where a gap is needed for drainage.
Has anyone tested using a sealant or glue to tack up the foam sheets instead of using the plastic-capped screws? I'd like to minimize the number of screws used on our exterior, especially those that are not going into a stud. My thought is that the screws provide a direct thermal bridge straight through the foam insulation and the Zip sheathing, and a few little dabs of Fast Flash on each panel might hold the foam sheets long enough to get the rain screen batons in place. Thoughts?
@@loumalibu5596 Hmm, hadn't thought of that. Like some of the Great Stuff floor and wall PU foam? Do you think it would get tacky enough quickly enough to work?
Tacking the insulation up doesn't need a whole lot of screws since the batons will be holding everything together. Realistically, 10 screws per 32 sf are the least of concern. (Unless a neighbor is pointing mirrors toward your house - Disney Opera House in L.A. had mirror finish that affected condos across street)
@davepetrakos475 except that I've seen what screws poking into the wall cavity in very cold environment can do if there is any humidity in there with them. It wasn't pretty. At the very least, I'll have a think about the screw selection to make sure they don't like all the way through and use a smart vapor retarder
Matt, thank you for this! Besides what others asked (is there a preferred detail between the left "innie" window and the right "outie" window, and why?), I am also wondering how the window buck on the left one is attached.... can you share?
Just us Zip-R for sheathing. We built with 2x4 exterior wall studs and Zip-R12 in zone 6a. No need for bucks around windows and doors or furring strips to hold siding. Regular windows/doors built for 2x6 construction fit perfectly. Our walls are R-30 with R-12 exterior insulation and closed cell foam between studs that improves racking by 330-400% vs. using batts. The assembly is very tight from water/air penetration. The rest of this is nonsense unless you live above the Arctic circle for any sort of energy payback. The labor alone using foam board as exterior insulation, bucks and furring strips is too much.
Stop with the racking improvement from foam comment. Doesn't matter since it's not part of the structural. I'm doing sandwich panels that are a concrete wythe then 4" polyiso then 8" concrete wall. All poured at the same time. Way less to build and way better performance than your wall. It'll last longer also. You did do it right for a framed house though. I'm a spec builder and I'm switching to concrete for entry level work. Mid teir for my own house also. I worked on top tier homes for 20 years but I don't build that way now. To long on each project and it gets boring.
@@sparksmcgee6641 "Stop with the racking improvement from foam comment. Doesn't matter since it's not part of the structural." Racking is structural even if code doesn't recognize closed cell foam as adding greatly to that. We have 9' ceilings on upper and lower levels and a structural engineer recommended closed cell over batts for that reason using 2x4 construction. Code says 2x4 construction was OK but adding additional racking strength via foam makes sense, especially when using thick Zip-R. You have less R-value with 4" of polyiso than we have with 5.5" of polyiso and very deep windows/doors that we don't like the look. We looked at ICF and rejected due to high pricing and thick walls. Framed homes can last a very long time if water management is maintained.
I wouldn't do continuous CCF between the studs if it were me. No way to really work on the trades post-construction if you do. My idea for a reasonable setup was get the thickest zip-R and do a minimum of 2x6 construction using 2" of CCF, then fill the rest of the cavity space with batts made for 2x4 construction.
@@Drunken_Hamster Yeah like that happens often having the trades working on outside walls after the home is completed. CCF isn't sprayed flush with studs like OCF is. If a foamed area needs some work and needs removal, the foam is removed easily because it's foam and a CCF spray can can be used to replace for well under $10/can, which would be a tiny fraction of the cost and time for the trades. Is it really worth the extra money to go with 2x6 studs and jamb extensions for windows and doors when using ZIP-R just in case the trades need to open up exterior walls to save them a little time and effort due to foam in the way? NO. That makes zero sense.
@@bobbray9666 I meant interior walls. Nobody does electrical and plumbing from the exterior walls when adding, moving, or fixing shit like outlets, faucets, and drains. I also like 2x6 for the strength. And the thicker construction just makes it LOOK like a better house, too. Yeah, you can get 2x4 LVLs, but then you're at a higher price point than 2x6 studs plus likely needing lead time and being hard to find extras in a pinch.
How many screws are going into those 1x4’s? What size screws to go through all that insulation and the zip r to get into the stud how far? Finally someone showed a method to hopefully hit the studs.
"What size screws to go through all that insulation and the zip r to get into the stud how far" Probably #9 3.5" For getting the studs you measure or just spot from above or below from the exposed sheathing (you can see the nail holes for the studs. . If you off, you re adjust. Once you found the stud, you can just follow the stud (up or down), use a level or run a chalk line.
@ A 3.5" screw would only go into the OSB once it goes through 3" of insulation. You still have 1" of insulation from the zip and another 1.5" to get into a stud decently to hang all that hardie board off it I think. So a 6" screw is more what I was thinking. Or even like a 7” to cover the thickness of the 1x4. It seems kind of crazy.
@@guytech7310 I’m talking screws going into 1x4, through 3” of insulation, through 7/16 zip board, through 1” of zip insulation, into stud. A 6” screw gets you like a half inch into the stud. All that siding is hung off screws going into studs a half inch.
Hey Matt, you've got a bunch of videos on how to build out your exterior window trim in preparation for the exterior insulation, but what about your doors? Is the process the same? I've got a 1953 house I'm going to re-side next year myself with foam board, rain screen, and hardie shingles!
I was doing my build like that till I shot it with a thermal camera last winter and saw heat escaping through the cracks and from behind the sheets of insulation. Also I thought about it and did some quick calcs, each screw roughly equals a 14 inch long 2x as metal is over 200x as thermally conductive as 2x wood. I honestly don't know how much it's going to make it better but I went to a stand off system where in this house I used t-stud screwed to the ICF walls then spray foamed to near the face of the t-stud, about r-32+-. It eliminates the air movement between and behind the sheet foam and the thermal bridge of the screws as they are in the flat 2x of the t-stud with about 3 inches of spray foam on top of the screws. Spray foam is also a good water proof layer and there is about a 1/2" air gap to the siding, rain screen. I'll be posting it on my UA-cam Chanel in a couple months. I'll try to remember to add a comment with a link in the future. Would love to know how air movement in sheet foam and or rock wool outside insulation like this actually affects the true r-value or thermal efficiency? I could see it clear as a bell on a thermal camera on a icf house covered in 2 layers of 6" eps 4'x8' sheets offset seams.
Question about “sealing” the bottom of the exterior insulation panels prior to bug screen. Besides letting water have a way out (if it ever gets there), can the foam insulation dry out being “exposed” over the long term? Is there any reason to seal the bottom panel edges with something like ZIP tape to protect it from future decay?
Great video Matt! I know this video wasn't about this, but because it did come up may I ask... Is "Rainscreen" now just considered to be a general term for a furred out plain (solid furring or a roll product) with drainage, or is a Rainscreen technically vented from above as well? I understood it be a system, whereby it has to be vented top and bottom to really be able to dry out well.
I would like to see the rainscreen details at the top and bottom under different circumstances. For one area I ran my rainscreen directly into a vented sofit. In another area the sofit wasn't vented so I left a 7/16 inch gap at the top. In one spot the wall was above a shinglesd roof so left a 7/16 gap above the shingles and foam base. I used bug screen at top and bottom in all locations and rested the foam on wood or PVC so it is never directly exposed. Not sure if leaving the gaps the way I did is correct though.
I insulated my addition like this 10 yrs ago in the north. Stays warm now but for some reason i get a lot of road noise in this addition even with 5/8 + 1/2 sheetrock and triple pane windows.
Looking at the bug screen, it looks as though there would still be a gap between the siding starter strip and the air gaps between the 1x4s. How are you sealing that, unless you're folding it down again over the starter strip before you put the siding on?
I agree. There should really be an air-water barrier outboard of the exterior insulation. Those polyiso sheets are not really sturdy enough for that barrier to be bulletproof though. As Matt says, those sheets might shrink over time as well.
I think it needs to be allowed to let potential moisture to escape outwardly, UK agrement certificates for polyiso insulation like this state that you must never tape the joints externally. We use a vapour control layer over the TF then the insulation over that. You could tape the joints with a breathable tape.
Matt, when you installed the window from the inside, the window mounting brackets sat flush on the interior and appeared to be nearly flush with the exterior as well. Did you custom order each window for each of the window framing options? Why is one exterior window opening deeper than the other if they're both mounted to the inside of the same flush wall? Do you prefer one window option over the other?
I'm in the south in DFW. What do you think would be better for a continuous exterior, Rockwool or foam? Also, with this build do you still insulate on the inside between the stud bays?
Looks amazing but, has any thought gone into future window replacement ? If the windows fail it looks like it'll be allot of surgery to switch them out.
You're right there are better systems available, but not necessarily available in the USA. Europe has weatherproof expanding tapes to seal the exterior of windows.
I don’t think I made it very clear in the video, but that cedar trim around the windows has been face screwed, and we didn’t plug the holes so that the trim could easily be replaced/pulled in the future and you would have full access to change the windows without touching the siding. Go check out my episode of “the Risinger Build“ siding For those details.
I see you using Prosoco FastFlash over the ZIP panels often, and I'd like to do the same since it's substantially cheaper than Huber's equivalent. Does that not negatively affect the ZIP warranty, though?
Biggest issue with Polyiso is tha in cold weather they will shrink...here in Canada that can be 1/4 or larger over time. Would taping the seams top or limit some of that shrinking?
How do you attach the 5" jam extension to the buck you made? Why did you do the windows differently? For the newbies, maybe you could do a video with details of how the bucks are made, attached, flashed, angled (5 degree pan) and then how the bucks are made, attached, flashed. You jumped over a huge detail that if down poorly will just rot. You used cedar for the jam extension, how about PVC or what other possible materials would last 50-100 years because if you ever have to fix a problem, it seems like it would be a compete PITA to tear out the jam and rebuild.
Excellent feedback. Also, some good questions. To learn more about those cedar trims on the outside of the house go check out my “the Risinger Build“ video series. If you go to the siding episode, I took some time explaining how we built them. Also know that they are face screwed so they could be removed easily in the future. I wanted to be able to change out these Pella Windows And access the flange. I think I might actually do a more end of answer on this for my Instagram feed. @RisingerBuild thanks again for watching.
You should make a video about retrofitting exterior insulation on a house. I live in South Dakota and next year Im replacing siding and would like to add exterior insulation. My house was built in the 70's and has buffalo board sheathing. Not sure what the best solution would be to add exterior insulation.
Matt, when you put the one by fours over the insulation so you would have something to nail the siding to how did you keep the screws from pulling the one by fours in too tight? Did you pull a string all the way down the wall or what did you do?
I think he probably used his brain. Also his hands eyes and ears helped him skill and intuition. Or bust be a beta simp and need help from levels and strings for every single task
I know you have a rainscreen under the cladding, but I'm also worried about water, either rain infiltration or condensed vapor escaping from the building, getting trapped between the Zip sheathing and the foil face of the first layer of insulation. Would it be smart to put a layer of something like Benjamin Obdyke Slicker rain screen on the Zip before putting the insulation on? Would this defeat some of the insulating properties of the insulation?
How are all the screws holding the insulation on not violating the air, vapor, and water barrier of the Zip panels? Last I Checked those don't self heal like I&W would.
I watch a channel where a young woman in Slovenia is rehabbing her house. It's an amazing channel. She is currently putting exterior insulation on the walls. It is foam blocks that are roughly 24" x 48" x 8" thick. I'm sure it's metric, but about that size.
@austinhastings8793 I don't know her latitude, but I looked up the country's average winter temperature. 0°C/32°F I'll ask her what the dimensions are. They might be only 6" thick.
@@throngcleaver I'm from Austria, right next to the slovenian Border and we are doing like 2 layers of 6" isolation on new houses. And this is to the outside of 12" thick brick walls. I have a wooden framed house here but we used roughly 4" by 14" (8*28cm) studs that got filled with cellulose insulation. On the outside 6" woodfiber insulation blocks were nailed on and on the inside a high density wood fiber sheet with taped seams is used as a vapor barrier. Than we put additional 2"by4" studs on the inside of the walls as an installation cavity which then is double planked with another high dense wood fiber sheet and gypsum fiber interior sheet. Total wall thickness is around 24".
@Wiesi22 Wow! That is some serious insulation! Most homes in the U.S. have 2"x4" studs, with either plywood or OSB sheathing, and fiberglass insulation. Then 1/2" drywall inside, and cheap vinyl, steel, or aluminum siding on the exterior. Total wall thickness is 5 to 6". Many more modern homes have 2x6 studs with 6" of fiberglass, but it all depends on cost and climate, as I'm sure you are aware. It's nice to see that more homes are getting built with rigid foam, or spray foam to reduce heating and cooling costs. Thanks for sharing that information! 😁
I'm trying to wrap my head around how exterior insulation keeps the sheathing warm when the interior insulation's job is to keep the heat inside? Asking from a cold climate (6a) perspective here.
Do you worry about moisture trapped between the waterproof zip and the waterproof foil face of the insulation? If water does get in there, there's nowhere for it to dry to?
I'm paying to have asbestos siding professionally removed and would like to do a quality insulation job like this afterwards. Does having plaster walls instead of gypsum change anything? The house is very drafty. Hoping to stop that. Located in the middle of Oklahoma
I have enjoyed all the videos about exterior insulation. I plan on doing the same thing on my house in Minnesota. My question is on how to do the rain screen using vinyl siding. All the videos are using hardie siding. My concern is that vinyl siding should have some kind of continuous backing because of how thin it is. I was thinking of insulation over the studs then sheathing and house wrap before putting vinyl siding on. Any ideas?
@buildshow - Matt, is there a need to add any additional drainage between the rigid insulation and the zip panels? What if you were using mineral wool insulation for the exterior instead? Last, if you're building in areas where termites present a larger challenge could you zip tape the exposed polyiso board edges that face the ground for additional protection (or would this be a waste of time)?
Outstanding! Why 1X4 instead of std. furring 1X2 to support wall siding, less thermal bridging, more/wider channels between furring, and lower cost for the furring behind the siding?
Is this a possability for a retro fit of a house with just OSB exterior and siding? I've got a 1970's build in zone 7a, and would love to improve the air seal/insulation value. Your air seal comes from the ZIP system, could that be installed over top of OSB? Then add a layer of foam?
hello i live in Wisconsin and was wondering if it is better to put house wrap under exterior foam or over. concerned about any vapor on back side of foam touching osb thanks
I know there’s probably no answer for you or for me to get from you, but I’m gonna be building the house here in Central Virginia basically halfway through the state east of West and about 20 miles from the North Carolina border is exterior insulation and all of that is it needed or worth itin our very mild climate
Are there any concerns with moisture getting trapped between the insulation and Zip System? I've been under the impression that the Zip needs to "breathe" to allow water vapor to pass through it.
I'm confused. Why is Matt hawking this product for exterior insulation instead of Rockwool, which he was cheering on..."its bofo great" in other vids???? I get the foil face for Southern areas but probably just for S & W exposures, right? What's shown here is N or E building face
Matt, I’d love for you guys to produce a checklist that a homeowner could go over with a GC prior to build so it’s easy to communicate what type of build we want. Builders in my area just don’t typically like you do…yet!
Funny you say that. I’m working on something to release next year. Stay tuned. My team has about 80 hours into it so far. More work to go, but I’m excited about it.
GCs do know how to go all out, the problem is the client is offering the job to the lowest bidder. At the end of the day, you get what you pay for.
The problem isn't the GC.
The problem is the clients budget. If you aren't paying for all the extras, you aren't getting them.
Get ready to pay. And in some markets if it's under 100k population you may have problems finding people with experience so you'll pay to train the crews.
@@buildshowid like one as well
i like that you come to Canada periodically. Great tips. I just showed my wife your 2 screw ups. So she would know that others screw up. Not just me.
You know my buddy Joe Lstiburek has this analogy that, ‘if you don’t watch a Matt Risinger build show and he doesn’t mention my jacket or my ribs, then it’s not a Matt Risnger build show.” 😂😂
Just teasing!! 😉 you saved my house, I am eternally grateful🙏🏼 just mix it up my friend :) 👍🏼
We've been doing this with EIFS for decades. It really is the best practice for exterior thermal performance.
I am not sure how the videos keep getting better and more informative, Matt. Keep up the awesome work educating us all.
You probably know, but I think you should consider continuing that exterior insulation down on the fondation. Even tough, it’s not a basement, insulating the foundation from the outside could help with thermal bridging. Keep it up
Would like to see monopoly framing with exterior rockwool. Building next year on our lot in a wooded subdivision. Given the termites around in the area, especially with large wooded lots, cant bring myself to do foam on house that will last generations
UA-cam search " 4 reasons I love Rockwool OUT-sulation "
Your camera person should bring us in closer for details.
Love it! Thank you. And also thank you for responding to my email back in late September that used your prospective contractor questionnaire. You helped me keep my standards high and not settle for less. Viewers should check out that episode!
Love those exterior outlets
I love this group. You guys deliver every time.
You might want to cover one of Joe L's lecture topics on getting the ratio right. The ratio controls where the condensation occurs and you need to make sure that relative to your climate zone you choose the right ratio or you'll rot your walls by accident because they won't dry.
Ratio of what?
@@PatrickKQ4HBD I believe he mans the ratio of continuous Insulation to cavity insulation. That ratio moves the dew point, so it's important that the dewpoint is on the right side of the WRB and you don't get condensation inside the cavity wall.
@@MeretLenzlinger-w8j Thanks. Is there a downside to 100/0 out to in?
When you do exterior insulation, the typical depth into the wall (from the outside) where condensate can build up only moves outwards as you add thicker insulation. Also to add to this, the more layers you have with plastic or aluminum facing, the greater chance the condensate has to wick across that layer boundary.
Exterior insulation makes a lot of sense, even for a SIPs build, because even they have thermal breaks at the joints, especially when they have metal joints, and exterior insulation sure really makes sense on a remodel. You're right, it is always wise to write a list of the details, and check those off in order.
I saw a video from the UK about exterior insulation over an existing brick building using interlocking panels. The brick's thermal mass will help a lot.
Many commercial buildings in the US use insulation over concrete blocks topped with EFIS. That puts the thermal mass inside the insulation. It is not common in housing, though.
@@BadGolfer-c9c Many old brick buildings, especially old farmhouses, have little or no insulation. Retrofitting with exterior insulation seems like an opportunity.
about 68percent bet on army yesterday, we made alot of money yesterday, i seen u putting it in my safe. thanks
the laser! I am doing that on my next build. Gives way more confidence. thanks!
Hey Matt with the level of detail and complexity in the wall assembly, you need to keep a copy of the drawing(s) showing the wall details on site, and every time you go to "touch" the wall assembly, look at the drawings to see if you forgot something. the bottom of wall detail would have shown you that the insect screen needs to be attached before the rigid insulation gets installed.
Would love to see a more in depth on adding to old construction and how you handle electrical boxes and other existing things on the wall.
really likes his vids. so much information, great products.
Thanks!
I don’t think you mentioned why the 2 different windows, just to show the 2 detail options or is one better than the other?
Yeah, that would be a good thing to know. Yeah it give a nice look out if you move that window all the way out to the outside make it look more like oh a bay window or a box window.
The "innie" window is more energy efficient and creates a nice shadow line in the facade, but it's harder to detail. "Outie" windows are simpler to detail and create a larger sill inside, at the cost of lower energy efficiency and a less attractive exterior.
How tp hold siding on foam ? Hardi? Tp heavy .
@@stevenlight5006 The furring strips get screwed into the studs through the foam. If you're curious, there are charts out there on maximum thickness of 15 psi foam for different weights of siding, fastener type, and fastener patterns.
@@stevenlight5006the 1x4 strips are secured with 6" screws through the insulation and into the studs - the position of the studs is marked with a chalk line and a laser.
Then the siding is secured to the 1x4s according to how the manufacturer recommends.
Great insight thanks
Would love to see a video of going through what your guys carry in their belts
I wish I had builders like Matt up by me.
Tell them to watch The Build Show! It’s a movement that’s happening. Builders are learning. #knowbetterbuildbetter
@@buildshow I actually just told two companies that came to give me an estimate for work.
This system begs to answer vapor transfer issues as I'm in a cold climate.
This system effectively has two vapor barriers, one facing inside the other outside. That is a concern! And what is the value of the one facing the interior ? Not radiation.
Basically I'm concerned with the science of using these panels and how the total system was designed from interior to exterior.
Did you get a design detail section indicating materials R values, dew point , etc ..
Would love to see it.
Matt’s house will finally be done in 2035!!!
Haha, probably, but his personal house is finished. This is another property in his neighborhood, I believe.
I am super stoked about this video thanks!
We do this in the UK but instead of sheathing board for racking we use connector plates and webs like a roof truss then cover with vapour control layer for water, air and vapour control then we fix the insulation on with insulation screws which help to reduce cold bridging. We tend to have a cavity and brick in the uk but we're just doing a project now with 100mm/4" polyiso and battens with timber cladding.
Very good video, thanks.
Could I just mention, when you state you are adding additional insulation in the stud cavity on the interior, saving money is possible as a vapour barrier is not required on the inside if the insulation ratio is 2/3 exterior to 1/3 interior. If less than that, a smart or permeable vapour barrier such an Intello or other would be needed. It sounded like you were going to add a lot of insulation on the inside but I didn't hear anything about an interior vapour barrier. Might be helpful so someone can determine whether to use 2 vapour barriers or one.
What is the r value of the windows? I was blown away when I recently saw some information on the negative impact to the thermal resistance of the complete wall assembly windows cause. A surprising detail was the fact that increasing the wall insulation, even doubling it, had very little effect on the r value of the entire wall assembly if low performance windows were part of the assembly. Basically a typical house built with regular r 1.5 windows could be built with r 13, r21 or even r30 walls but the total wall assembly r value improved only a point or two with the thicker insulation and no real insulation benefit could be measured until the windows r value is over r4.
Windows and doors are typically rated in U value, the inverse of R value... High efficiency windows aren't much better than standard double pane with e-coating... When factoring in total wall envelope. Also the type of window opening style makes a huge difference. Horizontal and vertical sliders are the worst with closed being the best. Smaller, more square windows are also better, while larger or skinny windows worse.
Another video for the reference file Thank You
Oh boy I’m seeing the prosoco on the rim boards. Nice ! 👀
R-60 is the recommended insulation value for any surface without restrictions. Passivhaus demonstrates how that can be done for prices comparable to more uncomfortable insulation practices of the past.
I have a dream. That is to take my crappy 90s Bill Milburn house in Austin and energy retrofit it with outsulation like this. The house is clad with brick on the front and halfway up both sides. The back and upper sides are hardboard siding that is falling apart. I also want to reframe the window openings in front - they are too big and have these trite arches that need to get gone. My plan would be to apply liquid flash over all the brick and reframed window openings. The siding would be removed, pink insulation replaced with Rockwool and then covered with Zip panels. Seams between brick and Zip would be sealed, natch. Then cover the whole thing with thick rigid Rockwool - maybe 8 inches. All of that is covered with corrugated galvalume panels and maybe some other unconventional cladding materials for esthetics. The roof overhangs would be cut to be even with the cladding, so no overhangs (similar to Matt's Perfect Wall House). Additionally the interior walls with brick on the outside would have the drywall pulled down so new inulation could be inserted. This will be necessary for sure on the front wall since the big dumb arched windows have leaked into the walls for years and there will be some repairs needed.
i been waiting for this one! rockwool kinda guy but translates still
I would still ideally want that air-water barrier to be outboard of the external insulation. The sweater outside the gore-tex jacket doesn't help much if it gets soaked itself and the wind can blow through it (though this might be more true for comfort board than those polyiso sheets.) For a stick-built home, my ideal would be a 2x12 treated base plate with another 2x8 base plate on top of that toward the inside. Frame with 2x8s or 2x8 T-studs 16" on center. Sheath with 1" plywood and use some of those Simpson strong ties through this sheathing, through the 2x8, and into the double base plate (use 2x the anchor bolts into the concrete.) That's a strong wall. Inside the 2x8s, spray 3.5" of closed cell foam, and top that with an R15 Rockwool batt. Outside, where you still have 3" of 2x12 to work with, put your 2 layers of 1.5" polyiso sheets just like Matt does here. You don't really need to screw them down though.. just primer that inner layer of sheathing and use 3M spray adhesive to stick them to the wall and to each other. THEN comes your final layer of sheathing. Either ZIP board or plywood plus AlumaFlash (UV40) for your barrier. I like the UV40 because you can run screws through your external sheathing, 3" of polyiso, then into the 1" internal sheathing and the studs, and THEN cover it all up with that peel & stick house wrap. Your framers may grumble, but you can reward them, and you would have an R60 wall that would probably stand up to an EF3 tornado, especially if you face it with rock, as you should.
fine for those with high budgets, the rest of us need something cheaper and more efficient, but I'm sure you'd be warm.
@@MrRobertjparsons Yep, it definitely is not on the inexpensive side as wall assemblies go, but look at the silly things some people spend their money on. If it were a choice, I'd rather have a strong, tight, well insulated house.
No shizzle, you building on Mars?
Hold your knife on the end of the tape measure. Safe a step.
Also, what material was used to box out/ extend what appears to be outlets under the windows.
As always, Matt, great details.
You can do 10 to 20 cm EPS insulation on the outside with stucko finish and you are done. This is what we usually do in some parts of Europe.
I have a smart home business in Alaska. But since I found this channel early in the pandemic, I have become obsessed with building science. The lack of caring or knowledge or both among the contractors is staggering. I really wish there was more info or videos for cold climates like ours. Hint, hint.
Why not use rockwool for exterior insulation so there's no shrinkage
Matt, as a homeowner, how do I get the trade crews to actually do the job right? I believed I had found an honest contractor but his crews were terrible. Their tin-snip cuts were sloppy and their caulking was even worse.
Thank you Matt for what you're doing and sharing! How about having 6 inches of EPS in a cold climate? Would love to see it!
6 inches is pretty extreme, that would require 8" screws for the furring strips, and more of them than typical due to vertical bending moment. Also your total wall insulation value would have diminishing returns if the wall has windows and doors. Even the most advanced doors and windows have poor insulation compared to even basic walls...glass even triple paned with e coating isn't good
Does any manufacturer make a thick "tongue and groove" exterior rigid foam that doesn't require two layers to keep the seams from opening when it shrinks? It would seem like you'd save half your installation costs with a thicker board that can be installed in one step.
Celotex (UK) do tongue and Groove Isocyanate insulation boards. I still think the joints want taping however to reduce airflow.
You can buy 6" polyiso boards that lock together covered with 24 GA sheet metal both sides. That's what I have on my walls over 8" poured in place concrete. Kind of expensive but very energy efficient.
It's worth mentioning that, up north at least, the requirement for exterior insulation can drive one to go no less than 3" in thickness to negate the need for an interior vapor retarder. Also worth noting is that the performance of a polyiso sheet degrades significantly in colder temperatures whereas EPS or XPS will start performing better since these sheets get their R value at around 70 degrees or so. I wonder if those windows are custom ordered for those thick bucks? If it's Matt's own house, then rhe answer is yes. 😂
Thanks for the excellent content and instruction Matt (as always)!
I'm curious when it comes to the bug screen. If you're placing the bug screen at the bottom of the insulation to prevent insects from boring into it, should other locations of exposure be considered as well? I'm thinking of places like the tops of penetrations specifically where you can't easily abut the insulation against, like windows, that Aquor hose bib box you have or anywhere where a gap is needed for drainage.
Has anyone tested using a sealant or glue to tack up the foam sheets instead of using the plastic-capped screws? I'd like to minimize the number of screws used on our exterior, especially those that are not going into a stud. My thought is that the screws provide a direct thermal bridge straight through the foam insulation and the Zip sheathing, and a few little dabs of Fast Flash on each panel might hold the foam sheets long enough to get the rain screen batons in place. Thoughts?
there is a special PU foam for that purpose to glue insulation, bricks, drywall, etc
@@loumalibu5596 Hmm, hadn't thought of that. Like some of the Great Stuff floor and wall PU foam? Do you think it would get tacky enough quickly enough to work?
@@chaseweeks2708 usually in 4 minutes. Google for PU bonding adhesive, PU panel adhesive or PU foam adhesive ("Soudabond easy" for example)
Tacking the insulation up doesn't need a whole lot of screws since the batons will be holding everything together.
Realistically, 10 screws per 32 sf are the least of concern. (Unless a neighbor is pointing mirrors toward your house - Disney Opera House in L.A. had mirror finish that affected condos across street)
@davepetrakos475 except that I've seen what screws poking into the wall cavity in very cold environment can do if there is any humidity in there with them. It wasn't pretty. At the very least, I'll have a think about the screw selection to make sure they don't like all the way through and use a smart vapor retarder
Matt, thank you for this! Besides what others asked (is there a preferred detail between the left "innie" window and the right "outie" window, and why?), I am also wondering how the window buck on the left one is attached.... can you share?
Just us Zip-R for sheathing. We built with 2x4 exterior wall studs and Zip-R12 in zone 6a. No need for bucks around windows and doors or furring strips to hold siding. Regular windows/doors built for 2x6 construction fit perfectly. Our walls are R-30 with R-12 exterior insulation and closed cell foam between studs that improves racking by 330-400% vs. using batts. The assembly is very tight from water/air penetration. The rest of this is nonsense unless you live above the Arctic circle for any sort of energy payback. The labor alone using foam board as exterior insulation, bucks and furring strips is too much.
Stop with the racking improvement from foam comment. Doesn't matter since it's not part of the structural.
I'm doing sandwich panels that are a concrete wythe then 4" polyiso then 8" concrete wall. All poured at the same time. Way less to build and way better performance than your wall. It'll last longer also.
You did do it right for a framed house though.
I'm a spec builder and I'm switching to concrete for entry level work.
Mid teir for my own house also.
I worked on top tier homes for 20 years but I don't build that way now. To long on each project and it gets boring.
@@sparksmcgee6641 "Stop with the racking improvement from foam comment. Doesn't matter since it's not part of the structural."
Racking is structural even if code doesn't recognize closed cell foam as adding greatly to that. We have 9' ceilings on upper and lower levels and a structural engineer recommended closed cell over batts for that reason using 2x4 construction. Code says 2x4 construction was OK but adding additional racking strength via foam makes sense, especially when using thick Zip-R.
You have less R-value with 4" of polyiso than we have with 5.5" of polyiso and very deep windows/doors that we don't like the look. We looked at ICF and rejected due to high pricing and thick walls.
Framed homes can last a very long time if water management is maintained.
I wouldn't do continuous CCF between the studs if it were me. No way to really work on the trades post-construction if you do. My idea for a reasonable setup was get the thickest zip-R and do a minimum of 2x6 construction using 2" of CCF, then fill the rest of the cavity space with batts made for 2x4 construction.
@@Drunken_Hamster Yeah like that happens often having the trades working on outside walls after the home is completed. CCF isn't sprayed flush with studs like OCF is. If a foamed area needs some work and needs removal, the foam is removed easily because it's foam and a CCF spray can can be used to replace for well under $10/can, which would be a tiny fraction of the cost and time for the trades. Is it really worth the extra money to go with 2x6 studs and jamb extensions for windows and doors when using ZIP-R just in case the trades need to open up exterior walls to save them a little time and effort due to foam in the way? NO. That makes zero sense.
@@bobbray9666 I meant interior walls. Nobody does electrical and plumbing from the exterior walls when adding, moving, or fixing shit like outlets, faucets, and drains. I also like 2x6 for the strength. And the thicker construction just makes it LOOK like a better house, too. Yeah, you can get 2x4 LVLs, but then you're at a higher price point than 2x6 studs plus likely needing lead time and being hard to find extras in a pinch.
I'd love to see if an ir gun can tell where that flipped insulation panel is
Why is it flipped ?
Very cool! Thanks Matt.
How many screws are going into those 1x4’s? What size screws to go through all that insulation and the zip r to get into the stud how far? Finally someone showed a method to hopefully hit the studs.
"What size screws to go through all that insulation and the zip r to get into the stud how far"
Probably #9 3.5" For getting the studs you measure or just spot from above or below from the exposed sheathing (you can see the nail holes for the studs. . If you off, you re adjust. Once you found the stud, you can just follow the stud (up or down), use a level or run a chalk line.
@ A 3.5" screw would only go into the OSB once it goes through 3" of insulation. You still have 1" of insulation from the zip and another 1.5" to get into a stud decently to hang all that hardie board off it I think. So a 6" screw is more what I was thinking. Or even like a 7” to cover the thickness of the 1x4. It seems kind of crazy.
@@thinde88 I was think for the 1.5" first layer. Its only 1.5'. For the second layer, 4" or 4.25" screws.
@@guytech7310 They showed the box of screws in the video. I think 4-3/4.
@@guytech7310 I’m talking screws going into 1x4, through 3” of insulation, through 7/16 zip board, through 1” of zip insulation, into stud. A 6” screw gets you like a half inch into the stud. All that siding is hung off screws going into studs a half inch.
Hey Matt, you've got a bunch of videos on how to build out your exterior window trim in preparation for the exterior insulation, but what about your doors? Is the process the same?
I've got a 1953 house I'm going to re-side next year myself with foam board, rain screen, and hardie shingles!
I was doing my build like that till I shot it with a thermal camera last winter and saw heat escaping through the cracks and from behind the sheets of insulation. Also I thought about it and did some quick calcs, each screw roughly equals a 14 inch long 2x as metal is over 200x as thermally conductive as 2x wood. I honestly don't know how much it's going to make it better but I went to a stand off system where in this house I used t-stud screwed to the ICF walls then spray foamed to near the face of the t-stud, about r-32+-. It eliminates the air movement between and behind the sheet foam and the thermal bridge of the screws as they are in the flat 2x of the t-stud with about 3 inches of spray foam on top of the screws. Spray foam is also a good water proof layer and there is about a 1/2" air gap to the siding, rain screen. I'll be posting it on my UA-cam Chanel in a couple months. I'll try to remember to add a comment with a link in the future.
Would love to know how air movement in sheet foam and or rock wool outside insulation like this actually affects the true r-value or thermal efficiency? I could see it clear as a bell on a thermal camera on a icf house covered in 2 layers of 6" eps 4'x8' sheets offset seams.
can you put it on the concrete as well? Won't the concrete foundation there leak a lot of heat?
Question about “sealing” the bottom of the exterior insulation panels prior to bug screen. Besides letting water have a way out (if it ever gets there), can the foam insulation dry out being “exposed” over the long term? Is there any reason to seal the bottom panel edges with something like ZIP tape to protect it from future decay?
Great video Matt! I know this video wasn't about this, but because it did come up may I ask... Is "Rainscreen" now just considered to be a general term for a furred out plain (solid furring or a roll product) with drainage, or is a Rainscreen technically vented from above as well? I understood it be a system, whereby it has to be vented top and bottom to really be able to dry out well.
I would like to see the rainscreen details at the top and bottom under different circumstances. For one area I ran my rainscreen directly into a vented sofit. In another area the sofit wasn't vented so I left a 7/16 inch gap at the top. In one spot the wall was above a shinglesd roof so left a 7/16 gap above the shingles and foam base. I used bug screen at top and bottom in all locations and rested the foam on wood or PVC so it is never directly exposed. Not sure if leaving the gaps the way I did is correct though.
I insulated my addition like this 10 yrs ago in the north. Stays warm now but for some reason i get a lot of road noise in this addition even with 5/8 + 1/2 sheetrock and triple pane windows.
Looking at the bug screen, it looks as though there would still be a gap between the siding starter strip and the air gaps between the 1x4s. How are you sealing that, unless you're folding it down again over the starter strip before you put the siding on?
Just installing on single exterior wall? Adjacent, already sided walls done prior? What's the story?
Why didn’t you put polyiso on the other elevations?
Would 4" of EPS also be a good option?
Why not use Zip tape on the seams for the external installation panels too?
I agree. There should really be an air-water barrier outboard of the exterior insulation. Those polyiso sheets are not really sturdy enough for that barrier to be bulletproof though. As Matt says, those sheets might shrink over time as well.
Or big stretch.
I think it needs to be allowed to let potential moisture to escape outwardly, UK agrement certificates for polyiso insulation like this state that you must never tape the joints externally. We use a vapour control layer over the TF then the insulation over that. You could tape the joints with a breathable tape.
Why, you're about to punch thousands of holes through it for the siding.
@@MrTexasDanyou want to prevent airflow to the next layer. All the siding screws go into the 1x4, not through the insulation
Matt, when you installed the window from the inside, the window mounting brackets sat flush on the interior and appeared to be nearly flush with the exterior as well. Did you custom order each window for each of the window framing options? Why is one exterior window opening deeper than the other if they're both mounted to the inside of the same flush wall? Do you prefer one window option over the other?
Matt, is there any reason/need to tape the seems at all?
Would you get double the radiant barrier effect if you had an air gap or air space between the Zip and the first layer of insulation?
I'm hoping to see you do a passive house with 100% brick. Specifically in zone 5, 6, or 7. How do we manage vapor with brick?
Can you use wood siding after you put on your 1x4 or would it be too heavy?
I'm in the south in DFW. What do you think would be better for a continuous exterior, Rockwool or foam? Also, with this build do you still insulate on the inside between the stud bays?
Looks amazing but, has any thought gone into future window replacement ? If the windows fail it looks like it'll be allot of surgery to switch them out.
You're right there are better systems available, but not necessarily available in the USA. Europe has weatherproof expanding tapes to seal the exterior of windows.
I don’t think I made it very clear in the video, but that cedar trim around the windows has been face screwed, and we didn’t plug the holes so that the trim could easily be replaced/pulled in the future and you would have full access to change the windows without touching the siding. Go check out my episode of “the Risinger Build“ siding For those details.
@@buildshow ahhh... Thanks for clarification, as a reno contractor, I think of these things...
I see you using Prosoco FastFlash over the ZIP panels often, and I'd like to do the same since it's substantially cheaper than Huber's equivalent. Does that not negatively affect the ZIP warranty, though?
Biggest issue with Polyiso is tha in cold weather they will shrink...here in Canada that can be 1/4 or larger over time. Would taping the seams top or limit some of that shrinking?
how would this work withicf blocks? And how much does your exterior choice matter with this? Citing or concrete siding?
Why not do the drainage plane next to the WRB plane?
How do you attach the 5" jam extension to the buck you made? Why did you do the windows differently? For the newbies, maybe you could do a video with details of how the bucks are made, attached, flashed, angled (5 degree pan) and then how the bucks are made, attached, flashed. You jumped over a huge detail that if down poorly will just rot. You used cedar for the jam extension, how about PVC or what other possible materials would last 50-100 years because if you ever have to fix a problem, it seems like it would be a compete PITA to tear out the jam and rebuild.
Excellent feedback. Also, some good questions. To learn more about those cedar trims on the outside of the house go check out my “the Risinger Build“ video series. If you go to the siding episode, I took some time explaining how we built them. Also know that they are face screwed so they could be removed easily in the future. I wanted to be able to change out these Pella Windows And access the flange. I think I might actually do a more end of answer on this for my Instagram feed. @RisingerBuild thanks again for watching.
You should make a video about retrofitting exterior insulation on a house. I live in South Dakota and next year Im replacing siding and would like to add exterior insulation. My house was built in the 70's and has buffalo board sheathing. Not sure what the best solution would be to add exterior insulation.
I’d sheath the house in Zip then follow this video for OUT-sulation.
@@buildshow Would that be a re-sheath, or add sheathing on top of the existing stuff?
Matt, when you put the one by fours over the insulation so you would have something to nail the siding to how did you keep the screws from pulling the one by fours in too tight? Did you pull a string all the way down the wall or what did you do?
I think he probably used his brain. Also his hands eyes and ears helped him skill and intuition. Or bust be a beta simp and need help from levels and strings for every single task
He has shown pulling a string in other videos. That is how I did it.
I know you have a rainscreen under the cladding, but I'm also worried about water, either rain infiltration or condensed vapor escaping from the building, getting trapped between the Zip sheathing and the foil face of the first layer of insulation. Would it be smart to put a layer of something like Benjamin Obdyke Slicker rain screen on the Zip before putting the insulation on? Would this defeat some of the insulating properties of the insulation?
What is the point of ceiling all of your zip system penetrations if the next layer of insulation has unsealed penetrations going through the system?
how was the ride out tia? smoothe as cake batter
How are all the screws holding the insulation on not violating the air, vapor, and water barrier of the Zip panels? Last I Checked those don't self heal like I&W would.
Of course they are
I watch a channel where a young woman in Slovenia is rehabbing her house. It's an amazing channel.
She is currently putting exterior insulation on the walls. It is foam blocks that are roughly 24" x 48" x 8" thick.
I'm sure it's metric, but about that size.
Jaysus! 8" thick exterior foam? What's her latitude? I don't think of Slovenia as being Minnesota-equivalent...
@austinhastings8793 I don't know her latitude, but I looked up the country's average winter temperature. 0°C/32°F
I'll ask her what the dimensions are. They might be only 6" thick.
Yeah, I was wrong. It's 16cm, or 6.3".
@@throngcleaver
I'm from Austria, right next to the slovenian Border and we are doing like 2 layers of 6" isolation on new houses. And this is to the outside of 12" thick brick walls.
I have a wooden framed house here but we used roughly 4" by 14" (8*28cm) studs that got filled with cellulose insulation. On the outside 6" woodfiber insulation blocks were nailed on and on the inside a high density wood fiber sheet with taped seams is used as a vapor barrier. Than we put additional 2"by4" studs on the inside of the walls as an installation cavity which then is double planked with another high dense wood fiber sheet and gypsum fiber interior sheet. Total wall thickness is around 24".
@Wiesi22 Wow! That is some serious insulation! Most homes in the U.S. have 2"x4" studs, with either plywood or OSB sheathing, and fiberglass insulation. Then 1/2" drywall inside, and cheap vinyl, steel, or aluminum siding on the exterior. Total wall thickness is 5 to 6".
Many more modern homes have 2x6 studs with 6" of fiberglass, but it all depends on cost and climate, as I'm sure you are aware.
It's nice to see that more homes are getting built with rigid foam, or spray foam to reduce heating and cooling costs.
Thanks for sharing that information! 😁
I'm trying to wrap my head around how exterior insulation keeps the sheathing warm when the interior insulation's job is to keep the heat inside? Asking from a cold climate (6a) perspective here.
So you don’t need to tape the seams of the energy barrier like you did with the zip sheathing? Any reason why or why not?
Do you worry about moisture trapped between the waterproof zip and the waterproof foil face of the insulation? If water does get in there, there's nowhere for it to dry to?
What type of wall framing was done on the exterior?
I'm paying to have asbestos siding professionally removed and would like to do a quality insulation job like this afterwards. Does having plaster walls instead of gypsum change anything? The house is very drafty. Hoping to stop that. Located in the middle of Oklahoma
Not really related to this video Matt, but have you ever tried using ExoAir's Trio foam tape for openings? Seems to be a pretty awesome product.
I have enjoyed all the videos about exterior insulation. I plan on doing the same thing on my house in Minnesota. My question is on how to do the rain screen using vinyl siding. All the videos are using hardie siding. My concern is that vinyl siding should have some kind of continuous backing because of how thin it is. I was thinking of insulation over the studs then sheathing and house wrap before putting vinyl siding on. Any ideas?
@buildshow - Matt, is there a need to add any additional drainage between the rigid insulation and the zip panels? What if you were using mineral wool insulation for the exterior instead? Last, if you're building in areas where termites present a larger challenge could you zip tape the exposed polyiso board edges that face the ground for additional protection (or would this be a waste of time)?
Hey Matt as I understand this is an updated and upgraded version of the techniques from the Aug 7,2020 video?
Outstanding! Why 1X4 instead of std. furring 1X2 to support wall siding, less thermal bridging, more/wider channels between furring, and lower cost for the furring behind the siding?
Absolutely could use 1x2 furring
Makes it way easier to get the screws into the 1-by and not be too close to any potential seam edges on the siding. I'd personally use at least a 1x3.
What brand of bug screen are you using and how can we get it ?
Could this be used on a South Florid Keys concrete home with no current insulation at all?
Is this a possability for a retro fit of a house with just OSB exterior and siding? I've got a 1970's build in zone 7a, and would love to improve the air seal/insulation value. Your air seal comes from the ZIP system, could that be installed over top of OSB? Then add a layer of foam?
Hey Mr. Risinger, any concerns that the bug screen will get clogged with debris over time? Thank you.
hello i live in Wisconsin and was wondering if it is better to put house wrap under exterior foam or over. concerned about any vapor on back side of foam touching osb thanks
I know there’s probably no answer for you or for me to get from you, but I’m gonna be building the house here in Central Virginia basically halfway through the state east of West and about 20 miles from the North Carolina border is exterior insulation and all of that is it needed or worth itin our very mild climate
Are there any concerns with moisture getting trapped between the insulation and Zip System? I've been under the impression that the Zip needs to "breathe" to allow water vapor to pass through it.
Would it be great to use for concrete and brick built house?
What about a 2x6 wall with Rockwool R23 sheathed with Huber Zip-R Sheathing 2"(R9)?
I'm confused.
Why is Matt hawking this product for exterior insulation instead of Rockwool, which he was cheering on..."its bofo great" in other vids????
I get the foil face for Southern areas but probably just for S & W exposures, right?
What's shown here is N or E building face