This was a great video for an intro into 3D printing. Because of this video I bought a 2nd hand 3D printer myself! Waiting on the wood PLA to come in, thanks for walking through the 3D printing process!
Fantastic, Andrew! One warning about the wood PLA though: it's grittier than plastic PLA, and it widened the hole in my nozzle, which messed up future prints. You can order a pack of nozzles for a small amount of money, but i had no luck screwing a new one on despite following instructions (but by then, my hot end was so far gone that i had to completely replace it... which only cost 10 bucks or something, so no biggie).
Hey Ryan, here's an idea for you. The resin printer does a good job with high fidelity stuff, and the example of the scare cards lid seemed gnarly (on video, at least). You could print out just the illustration plate in resin, and a matching sized insert in the wood lid, and glue the two together.. and either match the color or give it a bronze look (to match the theme). All I'm saying is, the singular print can still be separated into various portions. About the spray, try not to go back and forth in this sort of wiggly motion. Press hard on the nozzle, keep it at a stretch hand distance (about 20cm), and don't uninterrupted left to right sweeping slow and steady motions. You will NOT cover it all on the first coat, and that is OK, that's why we do a second coat. Oh and the citadel paint primer, yes it's very expensive, but out of the 4 different primer brands I tried, this has always been the most FORGIVING if you accidently spray too heavily in one spot. Don't take my word for it though, buy one of each, print a detailed test piece, and see the results. It might not be too important fox boxes, but is VERY important for minis
Good tips, Shy - thanks! To be super honest, i slammed a little too hard against my (self-imposed) deadline for this video, and rushed all the painting stuff. It's also hard to work with a camera between me and the thing. i'll take greater care next time.
Couple spray paint tips: - Put the can in warm water before spraying. This will help is spray out better. Especially useful in Canada, since we normally store our things in the garage. So take it inside 24-hours ahead, and warm it up before use. - Hold the can a bit further back, you want the mist at the end of the cone, the finest particles. - Start the spraying off the parts, and then move onto the parts while it's already spraying. This will prevent any globs that may come out at the start of the spray.
Good tips - thanks! i kept all my cans inside the house. i was reluctant to do the third thing because it feels like waste of product, and the stuff’s a pain to get during lockdown. i wasn’t in danger of running out of anything except the clear coat. Nearly drained that whole can!
I'm not done watching the video yet, but I was going to get the insert printed for Arnak. However, I found out that there's going to be an expansion soon. I want to be able to fit everything if possible in the main box.
That's another advantage of the DIY approach: you can more nimbly respond to things like expansions. No idea what Arnak expansions will entail, but i can see designing or downloading a few new boxes, and modifying the sizes of the existing ones, to fit additional content. It beats throwing out large chunks of an expensive birch or foam core insert from the aftermarket designers.
@@NightsAroundaTable yeah, that's is why I'm still asking the bf to get a 3d printer lol. I'd love to print it myself. When searching for insert I did see this one and saw how gorgeous it was. Your modifications looks great btw! Great job. 👍
@@NightsAroundaTable If u end up updating your insert for the Expantion could u share the Files? My Printer was out of Order for Months and I am binging it back to live because I want to print this insert... My only Problem is that I got the Expantion too and I am not Sure if I change the Height of the boxes it would not fit on the Game Box anymore.
So you dont need it on such extream angles, only just enough so that when you look at it layer by layer, there isnt suddenly a huge transition to a large flat surface which is what would cause the suction and failure of the print, 15 to 20 degrees should work for that. then its about hiding the supports marks, thers options for lighter supports so they dont leave as large marks as those, or just placing them on an easily sandable surface like the bottom. this way you arent wasting as much material on supports, have less cleanup to do, and still benefit from the quality and speed of resin prints That said, FDM are great for popping out parts much cheaper, can get some good fidelity with the right settings and have much less cleanup work to do. I own both and like you said, thers pros and cons to each and workarounds for each
i ran a bunch of tests on a certain print - i forget what it was - and found the angle was really fussy. i remember the parts falling off at 45 and 15 degrees, but printing okay at 35 or some nonsense. The lighter supports run you a greater risk of detachment.
I didn't know this until recently, but Delta FDM printers do a better job of not getting those lines when printing. Because there is no table that is moving, and the heads are programmed in 3D space, not X-Y-Z, it does smoother print jobs. There are also CoreXY that have stable tables that don't move, but use ridiculously long belts.
Hey great guide! I have a tip for you: Just use regular Graffiti to spray your prints. Its cheaper and much better quality. Even good brands like Montana Black costs less than half of what you paid.
@@NightsAroundaTable your welcome. Montana Black is the name of the brand. I use it for my prints and you can take regular black for priming and white for highlights. And they dont have that big droplets like your paint.
That's true. What i would love to see is some kind of PLA sausage grinder, where you put your supports and off-cuts and unused ends in the top, and melt it all down into a new extruded roll of PLA that you can reuse in future prints.
I don't think you had to use the expensive wood PLA. I think you could get the same effect with cheaper PLA, and use a paint wash to get the wood look. There are a lot of PLAs designed to look like various wood colours. I'm curious as to the strength difference between the wood PLA and normal PLA, and do they burn differently?
i agree with you there. The designer used run-of-the-mill light brown PLA, and probably a paint wash. The gel stain was too thick for what i was doing, and too much for the PLA to absorb.
I started the video immediately dismissive because I like Arnak's baggies. I'd rather have a bunch of baggies and everything sorted. I ended it looking at 3d printers. XD I've been convinced, that insert is gorgeous!
That's a love letter to the game. Great work, one question though, did you submit your altered files do the original poster on thingy verse, so he could offer it as alternates? I think it would be great. Thanks for the vídeo, all the best.
Another great video :-) Looks very cool! Unserfamily really makes cool inserts, but not the easiest ones. I've started his "It's a wonderful world" insert, but, just like this Arnak one the embedded text means a lot of support material because of having to print It upside down. What slicer did you use? I'm using Prusa Slicer, but that one creates horrible supports which I couldn't get our properly, which caused me to abondon the project for the time being. About thining the paint for a wash I've used just some drops of water and some drops of IPA and It gave quite good results as a quick fix. There are also some cool low impact component upgrades on Thingiverse for Underwater Cities. P.s.: for who wants to know, unserfamily means "Our family"
i'm using Cura for slicing. i didn't think to translate "unser" because "family" is English... i just thought his last name was "Unser!" Good to know. Did you put IPA in your acrylic paint?
Thanks Ryan, I’m sure many like myself appreciate you sharing your learning journey with us. I printed the 3D steam engines & canal barges for Brass Birmingham and then designed and printed my own boxes with a textured design on the lids, but I am such Rookie I didn’t think the lid would work work - I don’t know enough about whether the struts needed would be automatic or whether I would need to do some tweaking to make it work. I hit on a simple solution to print the lid top and the vertical planes of the lid as two separate pieces and superglue them together which worked. How could I share photos of this with you? I am very interested to try and adapt/ print the Arnak insert you demonstrated now.
That’s the thing - unserfamily’s boxes fit together really nicely, so it’s not a bad idea to modify his files for something new. Hit me up at nightsaroundatable at gmail dert kerm with your pics! i’d love to know the specific glue you used, because an insert i’m working on needs repairs.
Heyya! Super inspired to start doing my own deluxe inserts - just having problems getting a printer in Canada. Is there a site that you use other than the official anycubic one?
Question any chance you have your modified files for the box lid that gave you issues. I only have a couple more boxes to print and I'm dreading this box too.
Refresh my memory: which lid gave me trouble? Here's a link to the modifications i made: www.thingiverse.com/thing:4831405 i'm finding now in the insert's "old age" that the delicate runners on the smallest resource boxes (arrowheads, jewels, tablets) are cracking off. But the expansion will be out soon, so it's time to revisit the thing anyway. Hopefully unserfamily will be all over the redesign.
It's a fantastic question. i have the expansion coming to me this week or next. i have faith. It's mostly extra cards, and there's a decent amount of room in the player boxes. But i think the extra tiles will go over the tops of the tile holders, and at least one of my boxes is pretty crowded because i sleeved everything. Stay tuned - i should be doing a playthru as soon as i get the expansion, and i'll let you know then.
@@NightsAroundaTable Thanks a lot for the quick response! Another question, do you think I could start printing some of the insert, or best to wait for your copy to arrive?
@@ZuluagaSD i have a feeling that if any bits won't fit, they won't fit due to box size, and not the insert design. i'm most suspicious of the lvl 1 and 2 tiles (the holders can only be _so tall_ due to the box depth) and i have a feeling we'll need to put our base game player boards in the expansion box to make room for the new ones. But you can start printing stuff like the staff and the clock right now, for sure.
Ha! Well, at the close of 2020, i decided to reinvest some of the money i'd made making Kickstarter preview videos for Rahdo's channel into a 3D printer, with a mind toward making my Patreon campaign more enticing for people. The idea is to start creating my own designs, and to offer the files and prints as perks to my patrons. So it's an investment. And at the very least, it makes for interesting (and relatively unique) content.
@@rottendan8686 So exciting! What's at the top of your list? i'm in the middle of a Scythe Legendary insert, but my hot end gave up the ghost and i'm waiting on replacement parts atm.
@@NightsAroundaTable the arnak insert will be my first projet and I think I will busy for a long time, then insert and everything to pimp my fav games like aeon end, zombicide
Right, and there are lots of different options, from wood to foamcore to 3d printed plastic. i know some people even design and cut their own foam core inserts for games.
Really good video. Thank you for all of the detail and your thinking on each of the steps. I had already found this on thingiverse but unfortunately the heated bed on my printer burned out before I could start printing. So I am waiting on a replacement part before I tackle this. I have used a matte brown PLA filament for other wood-like cases (for Quacks of Quedlinburg) and that has worked well with Citadel Contrast paints to give it a used look. I think that will be much cheaper than the wood filament and I think the contrast paints will be easier than the stain. Unfortunately, I don't have a resin printer for the more detailed parts, so we will see how that does. Do you plan to make your remixed parts available?
Oh no! You'll see in an upcoming episode that i destroyed my magnetic bed, so i had to invest in an upgrade. Is it pricy to replace the heated bed? i just put these remixed parts up on Thingiverse this afternoon, but i'm still trying to figure out how to "publish" them.
@@NightsAroundaTable If you need just the top surface, you can get that (and a replacement magnetic sheet) for$25ish. I got one from Befenybay on Amazon that seems to have very good adhesion, but I am just doing the first prints on it now. If you heater is out, that is another $20 or so, but I had a lot of problems getting the right part. My bed (for a BIQU B1) had a harness connector on the corner of the board and I should be able to replace it just by disconnecting the wiring harness at the bed. Despite ordering multiple parts from Amazon that have pictures that match my bed, the part I received has wires soldered to the bed and I ended up opening up the machine and connecting the wires inside the printer. On top of that, the holes inset into the bed were slightly smaller than the screws I had, so I had to use a Dremel grinder to make the area larger so the screws that hold the bed in place would fit flush with plate. Not at all an easy replacement... I hope you just need to replace the surface. Thanks for uploading your parts. I have a couple of more pieces from the previous insert I was printing to finish before I start on this one
Just an update. The SIMAX3D heated bed on Amazon is pure crap. Good thing returns are simple. But the Creativity 3D Printers bed has worked great. The Befenybay printing surface seems to be working well, too. I am up and running again (finally) and printing the parts for this game. Your Jewel Box lid game out awesome. I am sure it will be several days before everything is done.
@@robcannon i actually tore my magnetic mat pulling a print off it, and Anycubic replaced it... but not before i had a Creality glass platform shipped to my house. i'm kind of not thrilled with either of them. Prints are still really "sticky" and it's tough to remove them from either surface. Dental floss has helped the most.
This was a great video for an intro into 3D printing. Because of this video I bought a 2nd hand 3D printer myself! Waiting on the wood PLA to come in, thanks for walking through the 3D printing process!
Fantastic, Andrew! One warning about the wood PLA though: it's grittier than plastic PLA, and it widened the hole in my nozzle, which messed up future prints. You can order a pack of nozzles for a small amount of money, but i had no luck screwing a new one on despite following instructions (but by then, my hot end was so far gone that i had to completely replace it... which only cost 10 bucks or something, so no biggie).
That’s a sweet insert. So pretty... and it’s super cool that they continued the theme of the game into the insert’s design. So meta!
Agree on all fronts!
Hey Ryan, here's an idea for you. The resin printer does a good job with high fidelity stuff, and the example of the scare cards lid seemed gnarly (on video, at least). You could print out just the illustration plate in resin, and a matching sized insert in the wood lid, and glue the two together.. and either match the color or give it a bronze look (to match the theme). All I'm saying is, the singular print can still be separated into various portions.
About the spray, try not to go back and forth in this sort of wiggly motion. Press hard on the nozzle, keep it at a stretch hand distance (about 20cm), and don't uninterrupted left to right sweeping slow and steady motions. You will NOT cover it all on the first coat, and that is OK, that's why we do a second coat.
Oh and the citadel paint primer, yes it's very expensive, but out of the 4 different primer brands I tried, this has always been the most FORGIVING if you accidently spray too heavily in one spot. Don't take my word for it though, buy one of each, print a detailed test piece, and see the results. It might not be too important fox boxes, but is VERY important for minis
Good tips, Shy - thanks! To be super honest, i slammed a little too hard against my (self-imposed) deadline for this video, and rushed all the painting stuff. It's also hard to work with a camera between me and the thing. i'll take greater care next time.
Couple spray paint tips:
- Put the can in warm water before spraying. This will help is spray out better. Especially useful in Canada, since we normally store our things in the garage. So take it inside 24-hours ahead, and warm it up before use.
- Hold the can a bit further back, you want the mist at the end of the cone, the finest particles.
- Start the spraying off the parts, and then move onto the parts while it's already spraying. This will prevent any globs that may come out at the start of the spray.
Good tips - thanks! i kept all my cans inside the house. i was reluctant to do the third thing because it feels like waste of product, and the stuff’s a pain to get during lockdown. i wasn’t in danger of running out of anything except the clear coat. Nearly drained that whole can!
I'm not done watching the video yet, but I was going to get the insert printed for Arnak. However, I found out that there's going to be an expansion soon. I want to be able to fit everything if possible in the main box.
That's another advantage of the DIY approach: you can more nimbly respond to things like expansions. No idea what Arnak expansions will entail, but i can see designing or downloading a few new boxes, and modifying the sizes of the existing ones, to fit additional content. It beats throwing out large chunks of an expensive birch or foam core insert from the aftermarket designers.
@@NightsAroundaTable yeah, that's is why I'm still asking the bf to get a 3d printer lol. I'd love to print it myself. When searching for insert I did see this one and saw how gorgeous it was. Your modifications looks great btw! Great job. 👍
@@NightsAroundaTable If u end up updating your insert for the Expantion could u share the Files? My Printer was out of Order for Months and I am binging it back to live because I want to print this insert... My only Problem is that I got the Expantion too and I am not Sure if I change the Height of the boxes it would not fit on the Game Box anymore.
It's so fun to see you go all the way down the 3d printing rabbit hole. Great job on the insert! It looks amazing.
Thanks, Ben! More to come.
I printed all of these except the 'holder boxes' and I am so happy with the results!
Good call! i’m not convinced the holder boxes are crucial, and they’re a tight fit… but they may add structural integrity to the box…?
@@NightsAroundaTable indeed! Plus, they are badass. P. S. The pieces you painted turned out great imho
So you dont need it on such extream angles, only just enough so that when you look at it layer by layer, there isnt suddenly a huge transition to a large flat surface which is what would cause the suction and failure of the print, 15 to 20 degrees should work for that. then its about hiding the supports marks, thers options for lighter supports so they dont leave as large marks as those, or just placing them on an easily sandable surface like the bottom. this way you arent wasting as much material on supports, have less cleanup to do, and still benefit from the quality and speed of resin prints
That said, FDM are great for popping out parts much cheaper, can get some good fidelity with the right settings and have much less cleanup work to do.
I own both and like you said, thers pros and cons to each and workarounds for each
i ran a bunch of tests on a certain print - i forget what it was - and found the angle was really fussy. i remember the parts falling off at 45 and 15 degrees, but printing okay at 35 or some nonsense. The lighter supports run you a greater risk of detachment.
Wow. I do not have the patience for that whole process, but it looks amazing.
i'm planning to rein it in a little for the next one. Stay with me!
I didn't know this until recently, but Delta FDM printers do a better job of not getting those lines when printing. Because there is no table that is moving, and the heads are programmed in 3D space, not X-Y-Z, it does smoother print jobs. There are also CoreXY that have stable tables that don't move, but use ridiculously long belts.
Hey great guide! I have a tip for you: Just use regular Graffiti to spray your prints. Its cheaper and much better quality. Even good brands like Montana Black costs less than half of what you paid.
Thanks! Is graffiti a brand?
@@NightsAroundaTable your welcome. Montana Black is the name of the brand. I use it for my prints and you can take regular black for priming and white for highlights. And they dont have that big droplets like your paint.
@@GermanArchitect Thanks! Not sure if i can get it here, but i'll look.
Can you send the changes you made? To the designer for an updated version.
You did great job. Ty.
Subscribed!
Thanks, John. My changes are here, in this remix:
www.thingiverse.com/thing:4831405
@@NightsAroundaTable thank you!
You are doing great job. Keep up.
Very helpfull video
YES! This is the one. I'm not gonna do it....no girl, I'm not gonna do it...
Your modifications are awesome. How do I get THOSE files?
They were designed by the terrific unserfamily (AKA Stephen Unser)! Here's the link:
www.thingiverse.com/thing:4740139
@@NightsAroundaTable Yes, but what about your modifications...the lid to the Fear card deck and the lid to the Gem container?
I think you gave a good argument for water-soluble supports right after you mentioned them - otherwise, the supports will end up in a landfill 😊
That's true. What i would love to see is some kind of PLA sausage grinder, where you put your supports and off-cuts and unused ends in the top, and melt it all down into a new extruded roll of PLA that you can reuse in future prints.
@@NightsAroundaTable ohh that would be even better!
@@NightsAroundaTable boil them down and run them through a spaghetti maker 😂
I don't think you had to use the expensive wood PLA. I think you could get the same effect with cheaper PLA, and use a paint wash to get the wood look. There are a lot of PLAs designed to look like various wood colours. I'm curious as to the strength difference between the wood PLA and normal PLA, and do they burn differently?
i agree with you there. The designer used run-of-the-mill light brown PLA, and probably a paint wash. The gel stain was too thick for what i was doing, and too much for the PLA to absorb.
Any plans on the expansion Expeditions leaders? unserfamily doesn't seem to be posting them any time soon, but you seem to have blender skills ;)
There’s apparently a second expansion on the way, so let’s sit tight!
I started the video immediately dismissive because I like Arnak's baggies. I'd rather have a bunch of baggies and everything sorted.
I ended it looking at 3d printers. XD
I've been convinced, that insert is gorgeous!
BWA! Welcome to the fold! It's insane in here.
That's a love letter to the game.
Great work, one question though, did you submit your altered files do the original poster on thingy verse, so he could offer it as alternates? I think it would be great.
Thanks for the vídeo, all the best.
Thanks, Alexandre! i uploaded just the two files i modified as a remix. You can find them here:
www.thingiverse.com/thing:4831405
I saw a video on how to recycle PLA off cuts/ waste, but it looked like a rather complex process.
It’s definitely an area for development.
Sausage! Grinder! Sausage! Grinder!
To prime the minis i recomend u to do like bumbs of paint i mean like not pressijg the nuzzle even 0.5 second at a timd
You’re right. i’m getting better at it.
Excellent video. Thanks for sharing !
Thanks! More to come.
This looks awesome got any updated version for expansion
Naw... we keep waiting for unserfamily (the insert designer) but no dice. But CGE just announced a second expansion, so maybe that's for the best?
I sleeved my Arnak with Sleeve Kings 63.5x88
Thanks! Good fit?
wow, nice nice video, congrats
Another great video :-) Looks very cool! Unserfamily really makes cool inserts, but not the easiest ones. I've started his "It's a wonderful world" insert, but, just like this Arnak one the embedded text means a lot of support material because of having to print It upside down. What slicer did you use? I'm using Prusa Slicer, but that one creates horrible supports which I couldn't get our properly, which caused me to abondon the project for the time being.
About thining the paint for a wash I've used just some drops of water and some drops of IPA and It gave quite good results as a quick fix.
There are also some cool low impact component upgrades on Thingiverse for Underwater Cities.
P.s.: for who wants to know, unserfamily means "Our family"
i'm using Cura for slicing. i didn't think to translate "unser" because "family" is English... i just thought his last name was "Unser!" Good to know.
Did you put IPA in your acrylic paint?
Thanks Ryan, I’m sure many like myself appreciate you sharing your learning journey with us.
I printed the 3D steam engines & canal barges for Brass Birmingham and then designed and printed my own boxes with a textured design on the lids, but I am such Rookie I didn’t think the lid would work work - I don’t know enough about whether the struts needed would be automatic or whether I would need to do some tweaking to make it work. I hit on a simple solution to print the lid top and the vertical planes of the lid as two separate pieces and superglue them together which worked.
How could I share photos of this with you?
I am very interested to try and adapt/ print the Arnak insert you demonstrated now.
That’s the thing - unserfamily’s boxes fit together really nicely, so it’s not a bad idea to modify his files for something new. Hit me up at nightsaroundatable at gmail dert kerm with your pics! i’d love to know the specific glue you used, because an insert i’m working on needs repairs.
There will be another version that can include the expansion;
How do you know?
@@NightsAroundaTable still w8ing for this video 😀
We are counting on you!!!
Fun video
Heyya! Super inspired to start doing my own deluxe inserts - just having problems getting a printer in Canada. Is there a site that you use other than the official anycubic one?
i ordered one machine from Amazon, and the other direct from Anycubic. Canada has a few 3d printing stores. Have you tried them?
Question any chance you have your modified files for the box lid that gave you issues. I only have a couple more boxes to print and I'm dreading this box too.
Refresh my memory: which lid gave me trouble?
Here's a link to the modifications i made:
www.thingiverse.com/thing:4831405
i'm finding now in the insert's "old age" that the delicate runners on the smallest resource boxes (arrowheads, jewels, tablets) are cracking off.
But the expansion will be out soon, so it's time to revisit the thing anyway. Hopefully unserfamily will be all over the redesign.
Amazing work, one question, do you think this would fit the expansion content as is?
It's a fantastic question. i have the expansion coming to me this week or next. i have faith. It's mostly extra cards, and there's a decent amount of room in the player boxes. But i think the extra tiles will go over the tops of the tile holders, and at least one of my boxes is pretty crowded because i sleeved everything.
Stay tuned - i should be doing a playthru as soon as i get the expansion, and i'll let you know then.
@@NightsAroundaTable Thanks a lot for the quick response! Another question, do you think I could start printing some of the insert, or best to wait for your copy to arrive?
@@ZuluagaSD i have a feeling that if any bits won't fit, they won't fit due to box size, and not the insert design. i'm most suspicious of the lvl 1 and 2 tiles (the holders can only be _so tall_ due to the box depth) and i have a feeling we'll need to put our base game player boards in the expansion box to make room for the new ones. But you can start printing stuff like the staff and the clock right now, for sure.
@@NightsAroundaTable Thank you so much!
Ryan, I'm worried that Cheryl's eyes are going to get stuck looking at the ceiling if you keep buying fancy new toys to make toys for your toys. :)
Ha! Well, at the close of 2020, i decided to reinvest some of the money i'd made making Kickstarter preview videos for Rahdo's channel into a 3D printer, with a mind toward making my Patreon campaign more enticing for people. The idea is to start creating my own designs, and to offer the files and prints as perks to my patrons. So it's an investment. And at the very least, it makes for interesting (and relatively unique) content.
incredible work, you just convinced me to buy a 3d printer (in fact two printers :p)
Smashing! Which ones did you get?
@@NightsAroundaTable the wanaho duplicator 12 for filament, the resin will wait some months, I want to make insert for some games first 😀
@@rottendan8686 So exciting! What's at the top of your list? i'm in the middle of a Scythe Legendary insert, but my hot end gave up the ghost and i'm waiting on replacement parts atm.
@@NightsAroundaTable the arnak insert will be my first projet and I think I will busy for a long time, then insert and everything to pimp my fav games like aeon end, zombicide
This game box would definitely do better with inserts for all those components. It is really a mess otherwise.
Right, and there are lots of different options, from wood to foamcore to 3d printed plastic. i know some people even design and cut their own foam core inserts for games.
Really good video. Thank you for all of the detail and your thinking on each of the steps. I had already found this on thingiverse but unfortunately the heated bed on my printer burned out before I could start printing. So I am waiting on a replacement part before I tackle this. I have used a matte brown PLA filament for other wood-like cases (for Quacks of Quedlinburg) and that has worked well with Citadel Contrast paints to give it a used look. I think that will be much cheaper than the wood filament and I think the contrast paints will be easier than the stain. Unfortunately, I don't have a resin printer for the more detailed parts, so we will see how that does. Do you plan to make your remixed parts available?
Oh no! You'll see in an upcoming episode that i destroyed my magnetic bed, so i had to invest in an upgrade. Is it pricy to replace the heated bed?
i just put these remixed parts up on Thingiverse this afternoon, but i'm still trying to figure out how to "publish" them.
Aha! Here we go:
www.thingiverse.com/thing:4831405
@@NightsAroundaTable If you need just the top surface, you can get that (and a replacement magnetic sheet) for$25ish. I got one from Befenybay on Amazon that seems to have very good adhesion, but I am just doing the first prints on it now. If you heater is out, that is another $20 or so, but I had a lot of problems getting the right part. My bed (for a BIQU B1) had a harness connector on the corner of the board and I should be able to replace it just by disconnecting the wiring harness at the bed. Despite ordering multiple parts from Amazon that have pictures that match my bed, the part I received has wires soldered to the bed and I ended up opening up the machine and connecting the wires inside the printer. On top of that, the holes inset into the bed were slightly smaller than the screws I had, so I had to use a Dremel grinder to make the area larger so the screws that hold the bed in place would fit flush with plate. Not at all an easy replacement... I hope you just need to replace the surface.
Thanks for uploading your parts. I have a couple of more pieces from the previous insert I was printing to finish before I start on this one
Just an update. The SIMAX3D heated bed on Amazon is pure crap. Good thing returns are simple. But the Creativity 3D Printers bed has worked great. The Befenybay printing surface seems to be working well, too.
I am up and running again (finally) and printing the parts for this game. Your Jewel Box lid game out awesome. I am sure it will be several days before everything is done.
@@robcannon i actually tore my magnetic mat pulling a print off it, and Anycubic replaced it... but not before i had a Creality glass platform shipped to my house. i'm kind of not thrilled with either of them. Prints are still really "sticky" and it's tough to remove them from either surface. Dental floss has helped the most.
How longe It took to print everything? 🙌🏼
Two straight weeks, nonstop!
Where do I find your modifications on Thingiverse?
Sorry! i thought i had posted it beneath the video. Here you go:
www.thingiverse.com/thing:4831405
The parts designer did a great job. They look great.
The only thing I don't like about CGE games.
Can’t criticize the insert if there isn’t one. (taps temple)