From watching some of your other videos I decided to buy some of the Honda HP2 oil to use in my Stihl weedeater and blower. I’ve been using the Stihl oil in the orange bottle and a couple of times I use some of the Stihl oil in the silver bottle until I saw some other videos showing that it wasn’t as good as what the orange was. I mixed up the 1st gallon of oil this year using the Honda HP2 and also noticed it was quite thicker than Stihl’s oil. The measuring cup I used to measure the oil in took several times of pouring gas in it and swishing it around for it to dissolve the oil off of the measuring cup.
I've been using belray h1r for 3yrs in a 562 since new. Piston is clean, only has a hint of brownish tan, plug looks same way, brownish tan. You can see the factory markings clearly on the piston.
Years ago when my friends and I all rode dirt bikes we found you couldn't beat Bel-Ray. Never fouled plugs and you could trail ride for years on the same ring. If I didn't have a hoard of Mobil 2t I'd sure buy Bel-Ray.
I've been using Caltex motorcycle two stroke oil in small engines since last century and all OK so far. It's JASO FC rated and pretty cheap too if bought in a 4 litre (bit over 1 US Gallon) container. This is in Australia and is mixed with petrol (gasoline) containing no ethanol.
I recently bought Redline Racing oil and was a little surprised that its FC because it is the cleanest burning oil I have ever seen. It smokes less than Red Armor and is $1 less for 16 oz. Highly recommended.
Woohoo! Definitely seem like the most popular bike oils people use in OPE👍🏻 I've ran many gallons of 927 in OPE, primarily mixed @32:1. It actually seems to "self clean" better there than @40:1. Tho I do have a handheld blower and a string trimmer that do seem to be building up a little bit of carbon. Haven't tried but have heard great things about h1r, 800 off road and hp2. Really excited to see these oils added to your list for testing! Primary reason im interested in the alkylate fuel is because I have a not so small and growing collection of 2t equipment. I dont prefer to store them dry but with so many pieces, occasionally some of them will sit unused for several months. And the only alkylate fuels available in my area are the pre-mixed ones or I'd get the 4t version and mix my own.
Great video Richard. Out of those 4 motorcycle oils I have only used the HP2 and the 927. Be ready to drool when you smell the 927, love the smell of it, hate it doesnt have die in it. The 927 put some build up on my piston but at that time I was running the saw fatter than I do now, I pulled it down cleaned up the combustion chamber and piston but haven;t used any more 927, Id be interested to see how it actually does running it now when I run the saw leaner than I used to.
I personally prefer Bel ray. I’ve been running it for over three years as a production timber faller. I have been very pleased with it. I’m interested to see how the other oils perform. The only other oil you have there that I have ran is the motul. I think you’ll find it is a good lubricant but doesn’t burn as clean as some others do.
I’ve used about a gallon of the 800 off road in the last year. I really like it. Used it 40 to one in most stuff but 32 to one in my ported 880 milling saw.
I’ve run all those oils (at 40:1) other than red armor and HP2, they’re on my list though. Bel-Ray H1-R is what I’ve stuck with if that means anything. Ran many gallons of that mix through lots of machines. Torn down several saws, blowers, and string trimmers and didn’t see anything I didn’t like. I hear good things about Honda HP2 so I’m gonna be running that next.
I’ve been using the Maxima 927 for a long time. I find equipment starts easier and when you’re holding it wide open for long periods I like to have the best that I can.
I used Bardahl VBA motorcycle oil in all my 2 strokes for years with no engine failures or carbon problems. I bought out all the remaining stock when they quit selling it many years ago and have finally run out of it. I have been using ECHO RED ARMOR as a replacement, and it performs excellent. Another bike oil I have used is Golden Spectro, which seems to be nearly identical to Bel Ray and VBA. Since all my saws are vintage, I only use partial synthetic oils and have had great results, and no failures.
Raced Maico dirt bikes in the 70’s. Ran Golden Spector oil. Never a problem with seizure. Still run it today in my weed eater, leaf blower and chain saw. Still no problems. Good oil!
Thank you for all your videos on the different 2 stroke oils, I was interested to hear you had been running TCW3 with great success in your saws. I've also run TCW3 in my chainsaws and string trimmers, they didn't blow up and still run quite fine, My thinking was, I use this stuff in my 90HP outboard and ran it in a 200HP outboard which have more load on components than a chain saw engine, and this is designed to be biodegradable in a marine environment and that's the main difference apart from outboards do run a lot cooler. Running Motul 800 at 40 to 1 now, and am very impressed with oil film left in crankcases. Have had some experience with other peoples stuff run on the Pond water and it wasn't a good outcome. From what I've seen I couldn't recommend pond water oil to anyone. I really appreciate the time you have spent making these videos. Thanks from Australia
Hi Richard. I love your new oil series, thank you. I have just purchased a one litre bottle of Motorex 2T synthetic blend two stroke oil that I want to try in my chainsaw’s, but I’m not sure how it will go? I noticed the oil is very thin and not thicker like the ones you have shown us in this video. I started using it in my chainsaw today and it seems to run fine! At 40:1. I have been using Sthil hp and all my piston are black for fairly new saws,. I have a new clone which runs at 25:1 and I’m not sure what to run that at.?. Thank you very much in advance for any info as what to do with this oil or the ratio that I should be mixing at. Cheers, New subscriber 🙏
Honda HP2 is my favorite oil. I use it in all my two strokes. It's quite high viscosity. I have used 927 in everything at one point and NEVER experienced it being dirty. HP2 smells good to me, 927 doesn't, I'm the weird one that doesn't like the smell of castor oil (unless it's in race fuel) so that's the only reason I use HP2 over 927.
I always use a graduated glass cylinder when measuring for mix ratio. Just remember to flush it out with mixed fuel when done to take advantage of every drop! That stuff ain’t cheap!
Bel Ray H1R and Motol 800 off road vs Saber from my experience, the Saber is a better choice for a trimmer and a chainsaw. Motorcycle oils are thicker and in the summer I noticed that the exhaust is hotter than when I use the Saber and the throttle response is even better with the Saber .Saber 1:50 is very excellent and economically speaking 30 EUR vs 17 EUR for a bottle. and it even has a fuel stabilizer. The fuel mix is usable for up to 12 months. I stay with Saber. I wish you, Mr. Richhard, much success in testing and certainly a big thank you for the previous tests of 2 T oil. You convinced me that Amsoil Saber should be my choice of 2 T oil and so thank you very much!
Ive run the motul 800 in several of my saws and loved it. Schaffers was another great oil I ran, but I always go back to Red Armour because its easy to find
Richard you make some great points. Based on other videos you've done and the information you covered in them... I'm a 40:1 Schaeffer Supreme man, all-day, every-day. Keep fighting the good fight! 😀
I use Schaffer’s 9000 @ 32:1 Along with Maxima Hi Test 3oz per gallon in 90 octane ethanol free gas. Excellent performance, minimal wear and carbon build up. Very happy with this combination.
hello richard very interesting topic on motorcycle oils Everything I know a lumberjack friend swears on motul 800 oil, for his sthil and husqvarna saws. cheaper than 2 t oils manufacturers, easy to find in France I hate to know about your tests a big thank you for everything you do
I appreciate all these videos sir. I personally run Husqvarna XP+ at 40:1. It's the cheapest FD rated oil I can get plus it doesn't stink. Everything looks good and lubed inside. GO DAWGS!!
I would also like to say that castor has no business in OPE equipment. It just creates a big carboned up mess. It's fine for something that's going to be broken down and cleaned but it's too dirty for handheld equipment that doesn't get torn down except when something is wrong.
thanks for directing me here. i'm also an avid 2 stroke rider and usually use motorex in the bike without any issues. been using husky oil and proof of that is what was getting me the warranty with the autotunes. slide test is a great visual. ill bench my husky oils and start running the bike oil on the new warrantied short block and let you know how the next 100 hours goes. 30 bucks a litre vs 20 for the husky not much difference if the engine lasts. im blown away husky hasn't addressed this. im one of very few that take a autotune to camp. 390's and 372's are being bought out everywhere because everyone gave up on the new husky's
390's and 372's have put a lot of food on the table. Doesn't matter how good the warranty is if it's not helping you make a living. I like the new saws, don't get me wrong. You'll have to keep me updated on how the bike oil does long term. I could never get enough trigger time to show it personally. Jake Mesa did tear down with Motul 800 and it's a little dirty compared the Belray HR1. He's a commercial faller as well.
Motul 800 2T is going to perform really similar to Red Armor, they are a very similar viscosity. Lighter viscosity oils with really great friction modifiers (Dominator) perform better due to how clean they burn due to the lesser viscosity.
I love castor in my chainsaws for summer but wont use it during the winter time cause castor at low temps tends to seperate itself from the gas at low temps.
Got to you a bit late tonight, side hustle firewood processing, Test the Motul and you will see that this is no joke if you use a power saw with any nuts. I don’t have the means nor the desire to run dirt bike pipes on my saws, I run what I have and spend my time on the chains, I try a few things here and there with a muffler or an intake filter, but if you know what you are doing you will listen to the bike guys who are much like we are in the saw world. The 800 2T runs a hard shift and it’s will perform as you need it too. I don’t pussy around on the throttle when I get into the hardwoods, it’s WOT and hold on for the ride. Looking foreword to what you find on the Motul 800 2T at 40:1, and if it’s anything like my saws it will not surprise you. Thanks for doing this comparison and I appreciate your testing. Who knows, maybe you can teach this old dog a new trick. LOL
Great video and shows the viscosity difference between premix race oils and oem oils which contain solvents to help blend easily with petrol. Testing the Motul would be my pick then the Abel Ray then the Maxima 927. The wash should be very prevalent with the two synthetics and a bit less with the castor. I wouldn’t recommend a castor oil for everyday commercial use as it’s generally a dirty oil leaving deposits on pistons, exhaust ports and can even cause rings to stick. It’s also not good for very cold ambient temperatures as it has a tendency to separate from the fuel. The Motul and BelRay however don’t have this problem and will blend and stay in solution. The benefits of these oils is that for racing, they allow you to tune your a/f ratio for max power ie as lean as possible without seizing or blowing up your engine. This is particularly so with castor oils as they have the unique property of getting thicker and turning into varnish when run very hot, which still has lubricating properties. Synthetics don’t do this. As for JASO rating, none of these oils will pass the smoke test as much of the lubricant can remain unburnt as it exit the exhaust. In terms of port cleanliness the Motul and BelRay should be superbly clean. The maxima less so. JASO FD iin a nutshell is about cleanliness. Less smoke, less deposits, complete burn. It also contains solvents to thin it out and assist in mixing with petrol. These solvents burn off completely during combustion Can’t wait for the experiment! I’m predicting more lubricant in the bottom end and a nice wash pattern. I think you’ll find the Maxima sill have the most cling ones to the bottom end. Really appreciate your experiments!
That 927 smells awesome when you burn it, tho! I ran it in one of Randy's saws a while back and it started to cake the top of the piston a bit after just a few tanks, so went back to the catrol racing 2T bike oil I like to use. But if ya like the smell of donuts - that's a great oil!
I dont think those oils will burn clean in a saw. Even most guys with bikes pick lesser oils like dominator or motul 710 to get them to burn clean. The top of the line racing stuff is only good if you're wfo open all the time on your bike. Im currently using lucas semi synthetic, which has been fine. I ran dominator before it, the only issue is a little smoke until the saw gets up to temp. The dominator and lucas are the oils I ran in my yz250 trail riding, the oils you picked were a smoky/oil drooling mess trail riding.
As I'm a avid trail rider who carries a chainsaw on the front of my ktm 250 2 stroke, ive been running bike mix oil in every 2 stroke eng i own for probably 20 years
That's what I used in my old Husqvarna 460 rancher, had a lot of carbon build-up but saw worked and lasted for 8yrs until I sold it, and I burned maybe 5gal of fuel/yr
Rich, i LOVE your channel. It's been so helpful. My question is this: is there an issue using mix oil intended for engines with a radiator, vs oil designed for air cooled machines? I've seen some motor sport mechanics weigh in, advising against it. Your thoughts as someone who's inside chainsaws? Currently using klotz r50 moto oil and liking it very much. Thank you for the good work!
Right now we are using Motul 800 Offroad 50:1 in a Husqvarna 135 Mark II (max 9000 RPM) and Stihl FS 260-C brushcutter together with Liqui Moly Stabilizer and Motorbike 2T Bike-Additive (Increases performance and provides cleanliness). The truth is that both machines run like clockwork and feel very very smooth. So, for me, you could test the Motul 800 Offroad. And thank you very much for your videos! 😉
@@alexstromberg7696 I haven't noticed an increase in performance either, but that's what it says on the data sheet. It's Liqui Moly 1582, which in my case I only add to the petrol for the cleaning effect. And the stabiliser because the machines have not been used for a few months.
Is there anything special about the core of Stihl spark plug wire? I’m deep in a loosing battle with plug wire on a 241. The plug-end spring is not wanting to connect and stay in the wire. I’m thinking of just getting an automotive 5mm plug wire that’s already made up and cutting to length. The coil end is screwed in so I’m thinking as long as it isn’t a carbon core it should work
Man I feel so ignorant but what about older saws that do not have the newer high rpm's of modern saws are these oils okay for them ie 051's 041's older macs etc
G'day Richard, im from Australia. I don't know if you have heard of Penrite oils (Aussie made)? But if you can get it online could you please do a review for penrite MC-2ST full synthetic.
The oil flow isn’t a factor once it’s mixed at the running ratio…the important factor is it’s ability to coat and lubricate wear parts and reduce friction, the other important factor is it’s ability to burn clean and reduce carbon buildup 😉👍. One of the really good ones I buy by the gallon is a snowmobile oil called Shell Advance 2, it’s a full synthetic with JASO FD…in the new snowmobiles, detergents and recycled carbon is critical due to their exhaust valves, which will gum up and not function. It has good flow characteristic as it’s designed to be injection fed or manually mixed. Should give it a try 😎👍 Happy Thanksgiving
Myself have also been running Shell Advance Snow Ultra in all my 2-strokes, from the weedwacker up to my YZ125 motocross race bike, wouldn't change it for anything else.
@@michellatour150 nice. A buddy of mine was building custom hill climb snowmobiles (turbos etc) and he recommended it to me back in 2003…his sled back then were $50,000 so if that was what he was using in them, then it’s good enough for my saws…never had one let me down due to oil since! 😉👍
I have no doubt any of those oils will provide good lubrication, but racing engines tend to get a lot of maintenance and TLC, and I do question whether they have sufficient amounts of detergent and any other additives to perform reliably in a 'consumer' environment, particularly in devices other than saws. I ran Mystic Sea and Snow @50:1 ($26/g, FD rated, and made by Citgo) for many years in everything, and I continue to use it in my snow blowers and generators, with no complaints. However, I have recently begun using Saber in my saws, trimmers, etc, and while I haven't decided if I want to run it at 40 or 50:1, I have no complaints about it either.
Glad to hear you had good results with the sea & snow. I bought 3 gallons(12 quarts) for $34 on ebay, so I will be subjecting my saws and trimmers to it for a good while.
Auto Zone has quarts for 8 dollars Full Synthetic Pennzoil Snowmobile Premium Plus 2T Engine Oil labeled "suitable for JASO FD applications" cheapest full synthetic I have seen. Maxima Premium 2 is dual certified TC-W3 and JASO FD but is 3 times the cost. Quicksilver has PWC and Snowmobile full synthetic oils labeled to exceed JASO FD for about 14 dollars a quart.
Hi Richard, as an experiment I been using Putoline MX9 at 50-1 in all my chainsaws for the last 9-12 months. It leaves a nice coating on the bottom end and very clean burning. Well worth looking into I would like to hear what you think of it. 🏴👍 ps; its FD rated.
Yes I exclusively use the R50 and I mix it probably about 32 to one and I run it in chainsaws old McCulloch's 10-10 to 850's leaned out to the best running. have had no problems I do use 1/2 airplane fuel and no oxygenated premium. You run lean and mean and have had no problems also in the weed whacker and the blower anything two stroke. I do prefer Castor oil cause it's strictly smells great but I have a tendency to build carbon in the ports. Think more so on my lawn boy more so but that runs at oh I've got it modified I think it runs at about 4500 RPM's normally they run about 22-23 I used it in the chainsaws for a while I think it brings the RPM's down because it's got thicker film strength but I had no problems with anything with them. what the bean oil does separate out of the gas pretty badly and I had problems with the carburetor fuel diaphragm filling up with oil and not getting any gas and had trouble getting it started after sitting so I kind of switched all the chainsaws and everything to R50.. Only problem I have is once in a while the spark plug will bridge gap with the lead out of the airplane fuel and they would just die pull the plug out and there's a little string across the electrode to the ground break it off blow it off start right back up again once in a great while that happens I can deal with it
If you have any oil that burns and leaves drool it is not the oils fault. It is the air to fuel ratio. Used to race motocross and even at 20:1 the pipe would burn gray with no goo. Three areas of the carburetor to adjust and could tune to very good at every throttle setting. You can run straight gas with no oil and if air-fuel mixture is wrong will still leave black drool.
Well it's also to be considered that some engines are simply designed for more oil, a leaf blower recently bought by a guy I work for was 15:1 ratio, unknown to me I used my 40:1 saw mix and couldn't understand why it was getting so hot, running weird.. well upon us both looking at the manufacturer paperwork we realized the problem. 15:1 it was totally cool. Glad we didn't smoke the engine on 1st day of use.. you've got a good point but to an extent that needs considering is the designed ratio spec
I ran the caster 927 through chainsaw that was made in West Germany in the 1970s, never had an issue with the castor bean oil, ran all my two-stroke equipment 50 to 1. Love the stuff!
I buy my 2 stroke oil in gallons. It’s a lot cheaper then in quarts. I run echo red armor oil and buying it in 5 gallon buckets costs the same per gallon as gallons. Buying it in quarts costs almost twice as much per gallon. I’m just a homeowner not a professional so buying it in 55 gallon drums isn’t worth the hassle but that’s the best option if your a landscaper or tree company.
I’d say Bel Ray is going to be the easiest to find and the Motul the hardest to find at a non motorcycle web site. So I test Bel Ray first and Motul last.
There's no better Twostroke oil for racing mx than 927. I raced for 25 years and have used it and so do most racers I do engines for. But it's very high flash point and if you're not on the gas WFO it will spooge out exsaust from not getting hot enough to burn and at 30-32:1. I use to use my bike gas in my saws alot and noticed the 927 carbon up in them . Ya smells great but wouldn't recommend it for a chainsaw. The hpp would be better I'd think. Also if you are in a cold climate the 927 can separate exspecally with race feal. Gad it happen years ago when was racing a winter series here in upstate NY. Treelborg tires and all 😊 it only separated in carb bowl bike would only run on choke cause oil was clogging up main jet. But ya there's no better smell than 927 with race feul
The reason I mention this is they say in a normal engine most of the wear is from each dry start after sitting. Therefore they usually recommend thinner oils to get oil to the crank, rods and valvetrain quicker. In a two stroke since the bottim end gets oil first is it just as important to have thin oils for quick movement and coverage? The slow movement of the motorcycle oils & Red Armor would indicate, maybe not. (I am new to two strokes)
@@peskypeet in a 2 stroke engine the fuel/oil mix goes directly into the crankcase then gets pushed up the transfer ports to the combustion chamber. So bottom end sees oil before the combustion chamber sees fuel.
Day late and a dollar short. I was hoping for Bell-Ray. I asked in a FB chainsaw group if anyone ever used Bell-Ray. In a previous (1970's) life I always used Bell-Ray in my MR 175 Elsinore. That smell, got to love that smell.............
I know there's a lot of Dominator users that swear by it, but I've tested and torn down both. Saber hands down. They both lubricate well and leave a great film. Saber burns cleaner at 40 or 50:1 than anything I've tested. All four of these bike oils will get tested in the next few days.
Motul is a good oil. But it doesn’t burn very clean. It leaves a lot of buildup in the exhaust port and muffler. That’s at a 50:1 ratio. I ran it for about a year and then switched to Bel Ray H1-R. I have been running that at 50:1 for over three years now with excellent results. I’m a production timber faller in the PNW. I do all my own saw work. From repairs to porting. So far Bel Ray is my oil of choice.
Reformed Stihl swamp water user here. I’ve been running Saber for several years now and it does great. Milling, cold starts , and not always letting the saw idle before shutting down. I don’t know how many barrels of fuel my son has through the saws and other equipment and he is still learning how to run them for a longer lifespan. We run 32:1, pistons and cylinders look like they’re just past break-in even though they have been run for years.
@@jakemesa3211What ratio do bikes run? Do you think bikes run at higher temperatures? I’ve heard good stuff about Motul but I trust your conclusions to observations.
I don't think you have seen this channel in depth, because there have been many reviews and results of using Stihl HP Ultra and it is possibly one of the least recommended oils, because apart from the poor lubrication it provides it creates a lot of residue on the piston, cylinder head and exhaust, because I believe it meets the minimum JASSO standard. And the manufacturer is Castrol, but it seems that here they wanted to skimp a bit and the results of this oil are quite disappointing. Check the channel and you will find some real horror films. Unless you mentioned this oil out of pure sarcasm 🤣🤣
Hp ultra is a very dirty oil that is not FD rated for a reason! It leaves so much carbon it's as bad as gas station 2 stroke oil! If you were a saw mechanic you would understand its terrible!
From watching some of your other videos I decided to buy some of the Honda HP2 oil to use in my Stihl weedeater and blower. I’ve been using the Stihl oil in the orange bottle and a couple of times I use some of the Stihl oil in the silver bottle until I saw some other videos showing that it wasn’t as good as what the orange was.
I mixed up the 1st gallon of oil this year using the Honda HP2 and also noticed it was quite thicker than Stihl’s oil. The measuring cup I used to measure the oil in took several times of pouring gas in it and swishing it around for it to dissolve the oil off of the measuring cup.
I've been using belray h1r for 3yrs in a 562 since new. Piston is clean, only has a hint of brownish tan, plug looks same way, brownish tan. You can see the factory markings clearly on the piston.
I wonder where Castrol Go 2T falls within these oils.
Years ago when my friends and I all rode dirt bikes we found you couldn't beat Bel-Ray. Never fouled plugs and you could trail ride for years on the same ring. If I didn't have a hoard of Mobil 2t I'd sure buy Bel-Ray.
I've been using Caltex motorcycle two stroke oil in small engines since last century and all OK so far. It's JASO FC rated and pretty cheap too if bought in a 4 litre (bit over 1 US Gallon) container.
This is in Australia and is mixed with petrol (gasoline) containing no ethanol.
I recently bought Redline Racing oil and was a little surprised that its FC because it is the cleanest burning oil I have ever seen. It smokes less than Red Armor and is $1 less for 16 oz. Highly recommended.
Thank you for doing this Rich. Should be pretty interesting tests.
Woohoo! Definitely seem like the most popular bike oils people use in OPE👍🏻 I've ran many gallons of 927 in OPE, primarily mixed @32:1. It actually seems to "self clean" better there than @40:1. Tho I do have a handheld blower and a string trimmer that do seem to be building up a little bit of carbon. Haven't tried but have heard great things about h1r, 800 off road and hp2. Really excited to see these oils added to your list for testing!
Primary reason im interested in the alkylate fuel is because I have a not so small and growing collection of 2t equipment. I dont prefer to store them dry but with so many pieces, occasionally some of them will sit unused for several months. And the only alkylate fuels available in my area are the pre-mixed ones or I'd get the 4t version and mix my own.
I like what you are doing Rich keep it up Man!!!!!
Great video Richard. Out of those 4 motorcycle oils I have only used the HP2 and the 927. Be ready to drool when you smell the 927, love the smell of it, hate it doesnt have die in it. The 927 put some build up on my piston but at that time I was running the saw fatter than I do now, I pulled it down cleaned up the combustion chamber and piston but haven;t used any more 927, Id be interested to see how it actually does running it now when I run the saw leaner than I used to.
I've used belray H1R for good 20 years and never have had any issues. Excellent oil film and can't complain on the smell it leaves in the air.
Great job man, and I’ve been running the Skidoo XRP for a while and I actually really like it, great film strength and it has no carbon issues
I personally prefer Bel ray. I’ve been running it for over three years as a production timber faller. I have been very pleased with it. I’m interested to see how the other oils perform. The only other oil you have there that I have ran is the motul. I think you’ll find it is a good lubricant but doesn’t burn as clean as some others do.
Why I quit using Motul also Jake.
Does H1R run good for sustained high loads?
@@JS-oy6nn motul 710 ok brn
I’ve used about a gallon of the 800 off road in the last year. I really like it. Used it 40 to one in most stuff but 32 to one in my ported 880 milling saw.
I like the way you roll
@@richardflagg3084 🤘🏻🤘🏻
@@mfsaws8240 👊
@@richardflagg3084 Motul 710 2t 50/1 tested in cheinsaw 🙏🙏🙏🙏
@@Okinawa1914 It's on the list. Should only be a couple of weeks. Working on a rebuild of the MS400 test mule.
I’ve run all those oils (at 40:1) other than red armor and HP2, they’re on my list though. Bel-Ray H1-R is what I’ve stuck with if that means anything. Ran many gallons of that mix through lots of machines. Torn down several saws, blowers, and string trimmers and didn’t see anything I didn’t like. I hear good things about Honda HP2 so I’m gonna be running that next.
I’ve been using the Maxima 927 for a long time. I find equipment starts easier and when you’re holding it wide open for long periods I like to have the best that I can.
I used Bardahl VBA motorcycle oil in all my 2 strokes for years with no engine failures or carbon problems. I bought out all the remaining stock when they quit selling it many years ago and have finally run out of it. I have been using ECHO RED ARMOR as a replacement, and it performs excellent. Another bike oil I have used is Golden Spectro, which seems to be nearly identical to Bel Ray and VBA. Since all my saws are vintage, I only use partial synthetic oils and have had great results, and no failures.
Raced Maico dirt bikes in the 70’s. Ran Golden Spector oil. Never a problem with seizure. Still run it today in my weed eater, leaf blower and chain saw. Still no problems. Good oil!
Thank you for all your videos on the different 2 stroke oils, I was interested to hear you had been running TCW3 with great success in your saws. I've also run TCW3 in my chainsaws and string trimmers, they didn't blow up and still run quite fine, My thinking was, I use this stuff in my 90HP outboard and ran it in a 200HP outboard which have more load on components than a chain saw engine, and this is designed to be biodegradable in a marine environment and that's the main difference apart from outboards do run a lot cooler. Running Motul 800 at 40 to 1 now, and am very impressed with oil film left in crankcases. Have had some experience with other peoples stuff run on the Pond water and it wasn't a good outcome. From what I've seen I couldn't recommend pond water oil to anyone. I really appreciate the time you have spent making these videos. Thanks from Australia
Thank you!
Pond water = dry as a popcorn fart.
But here in the States they will double your warranty. Lol!
Very Good stuff...Thank You!
I’m glad you’re doing these comparisons.
I hope these fancy oils do really well.
@@richardflagg3084 I personally think they are overkill but I’m interested to see what you find
@@cajun3197I keeping an open mind and let the teardown speak for itself.
@@richardflagg3084 absolutely. I might learn something cool
I bought some Benol a few months back. Mixing it 32-1 in my blower and saws this month. Like the smell
Castors 927... I have ran this oil in my saw seems to work fine and smells awesome lol
Hi Richard. I love your new oil series, thank you. I have just purchased a one litre bottle of Motorex 2T synthetic blend two stroke oil that I want to try in my chainsaw’s, but I’m not sure how it will go? I noticed the oil is very thin and not thicker like the ones you have shown us in this video. I started using it in my chainsaw today and it seems to run fine! At 40:1. I have been using Sthil hp and all my piston are black for fairly new saws,. I have a new clone which runs at 25:1 and I’m not sure what to run that at.?. Thank you very much in advance for any info as what to do with this oil or the ratio that I should be mixing at.
Cheers, New subscriber 🙏
Honda HP2 is my favorite oil. I use it in all my two strokes. It's quite high viscosity. I have used 927 in everything at one point and NEVER experienced it being dirty. HP2 smells good to me, 927 doesn't, I'm the weird one that doesn't like the smell of castor oil (unless it's in race fuel) so that's the only reason I use HP2 over 927.
I always use a graduated glass cylinder when measuring for mix ratio. Just remember to flush it out with mixed fuel when done to take advantage of every drop! That stuff ain’t cheap!
Bel Ray H1R and Motol 800 off road vs Saber from my experience, the Saber is a better choice for a trimmer and a chainsaw. Motorcycle oils are thicker and in the summer I noticed that the exhaust is hotter than when I use the Saber and the throttle response is even better with the Saber .Saber 1:50 is very excellent and economically speaking 30 EUR vs 17 EUR for a bottle. and it even has a fuel stabilizer. The fuel mix is usable for up to 12 months. I stay with Saber. I wish you, Mr. Richhard, much success in testing and certainly a big thank you for the previous tests of 2 T oil. You convinced me that Amsoil Saber should be my choice of 2 T oil and so thank you very much!
Thank you Sir!
I used to run Bel Ray in my lawn boy...worked way better than LB oil...then I tried Redline and never used anything else since 1994.
@@mikeschlup5279 Those old Lawn Boys are tough as nails. They don't make stuff like they used to.
The belray h1r is the only oil that I’ve used in my Kawasaki dirt bikes that never fouled the plug on the 3rd start up I’ve had a kx 80 125 and a 250
Opti 2 75:1. Ported saws and stock saws and gave never blown up. Wonder if anyone else has had same results. Great video by the way
75:1 😳
Yup.@@nathanael5606
Ive run the motul 800 in several of my saws and loved it. Schaffers was another great oil I ran, but I always go back to Red Armour because its easy to find
Picked up these oils at two cycle shops that are very close to me. On the shelf and regular stock.
I run castor 927 in the summer and stihl white bottle 🇨🇦 in the winter. Very interested in these tests you plan to run👍👍
Yes Sir Mr Richard, going to be some interesting testing with these 4 heavyweight contenders. Thanks for taking this one on 👍👍
also interesting that Dragonfly75 says all 4 of these oils are probably JASO FC.....
Castor smells the best!! still run some castor in all my model engine some revving to 20/30 K
0/
Richard you make some great points. Based on other videos you've done and the information you covered in them...
I'm a 40:1 Schaeffer Supreme man, all-day, every-day.
Keep fighting the good fight! 😀
👍The last quart I bought of this stuff was $10.99, not a bad deal.
I use Schaffer’s 9000 @ 32:1
Along with Maxima Hi Test 3oz per gallon in 90 octane ethanol free gas.
Excellent performance, minimal wear and carbon build up. Very happy with this combination.
Test a Yamalube 2 stroke oil Mr. Richard. Some of the old motorcycle guys I know say it is the best money can buy. Thanks sir!
Yep lots swear by yamalube 2r I just ordered some 927 to test. Currently running bel ray Mc 1 in my air Cooled OPE
Looking forward to results
Interested in the honda HP2 and Motul thanks for doing this.
HP2 results in the morning.
hello richard
very interesting topic on motorcycle oils
Everything I know a lumberjack friend swears on motul 800 oil, for his sthil and husqvarna saws.
cheaper than 2 t oils manufacturers, easy to find in France
I hate to know about your tests
a big thank you for everything you do
I appreciate all these videos sir. I personally run Husqvarna XP+ at 40:1. It's the cheapest FD rated oil I can get plus it doesn't stink. Everything looks good and lubed inside. GO DAWGS!!
I would also like to say that castor has no business in OPE equipment. It just creates a big carboned up mess. It's fine for something that's going to be broken down and cleaned but it's too dirty for handheld equipment that doesn't get torn down except when something is wrong.
Hi Richard. The videos are very helpful. Have you ever tried the Yamalube (Yamaha) brand? It might be worth the try. Thanks!
thanks for directing me here. i'm also an avid 2 stroke rider and usually use motorex in the bike without any issues. been using husky oil and proof of that is what was getting me the warranty with the autotunes. slide test is a great visual. ill bench my husky oils and start running the bike oil on the new warrantied short block and let you know how the next 100 hours goes. 30 bucks a litre vs 20 for the husky not much difference if the engine lasts. im blown away husky hasn't addressed this. im one of very few that take a autotune to camp. 390's and 372's are being bought out everywhere because everyone gave up on the new husky's
390's and 372's have put a lot of food on the table. Doesn't matter how good the warranty is if it's not helping you make a living. I like the new saws, don't get me wrong. You'll have to keep me updated on how the bike oil does long term. I could never get enough trigger time to show it personally. Jake Mesa did tear down with Motul 800 and it's a little dirty compared the Belray HR1. He's a commercial faller as well.
Motul 800 2T is going to perform really similar to Red Armor, they are a very similar viscosity. Lighter viscosity oils with really great friction modifiers (Dominator) perform better due to how clean they burn due to the lesser viscosity.
Running Bel-Ray H1R lately. Buy it by the liter and use old Stihl oil bottles to measure out a quantity for my 2+ gallon jug. About 40:1 mix.
maxima k2 and super m both work well in my trimmers and dont smell bad like the stihl oil ,
I love castor in my chainsaws for summer but wont use it during the winter time cause castor at low temps tends to seperate itself from the gas at low temps.
How about the Bel-Ray product? Essentially if it’s in a 372 Xtork
Got to you a bit late tonight, side hustle firewood processing, Test the Motul and you will see that this is no joke if you use a power saw with any nuts. I don’t have the means nor the desire to run dirt bike pipes on my saws, I run what I have and spend my time on the chains, I try a few things here and there with a muffler or an intake filter, but if you know what you are doing you will listen to the bike guys who are much like we are in the saw world. The 800 2T runs a hard shift and it’s will perform as you need it too. I don’t pussy around on the throttle when I get into the hardwoods, it’s WOT and hold on for the ride.
Looking foreword to what you find on the Motul 800 2T at 40:1, and if it’s anything like my saws it will not surprise you. Thanks for doing this comparison and I appreciate your testing. Who knows, maybe you can teach this old dog a new trick. LOL
Id love to see you do this test with klotz
Great video and shows the viscosity difference between premix race oils and oem oils which contain solvents to help blend easily with petrol.
Testing the Motul would be my pick then the Abel Ray then the Maxima 927.
The wash should be very prevalent with the two synthetics and a bit less with the castor.
I wouldn’t recommend a castor oil for everyday commercial use as it’s generally a dirty oil leaving deposits on pistons, exhaust ports and can even cause rings to stick. It’s also not good for very cold ambient temperatures as it has a tendency to separate from the fuel.
The Motul and BelRay however don’t have this problem and will blend and stay in solution.
The benefits of these oils is that for racing, they allow you to tune your a/f ratio for max power ie as lean as possible without seizing or blowing up your engine. This is particularly so with castor oils as they have the unique property of getting thicker and turning into varnish when run very hot, which still has lubricating properties. Synthetics don’t do this.
As for JASO rating, none of these oils will pass the smoke test as much of the lubricant can remain unburnt as it exit the exhaust. In terms of port cleanliness the Motul and BelRay should be superbly clean. The maxima less so.
JASO FD iin a nutshell is about cleanliness. Less smoke, less deposits, complete burn. It also contains solvents to thin it out and assist in mixing with petrol. These solvents burn off completely during combustion
Can’t wait for the experiment! I’m predicting more lubricant in the bottom end and a nice wash pattern. I think you’ll find the Maxima sill have the most cling ones to the bottom end.
Really appreciate your experiments!
Great info! Thanks for chiming in.
That 927 smells awesome when you burn it, tho! I ran it in one of Randy's saws a while back and it started to cake the top of the piston a bit after just a few tanks, so went back to the catrol racing 2T bike oil I like to use. But if ya like the smell of donuts - that's a great oil!
Looking forward to testing it
😂😂😂😂 hmmm donuts!!
I dont think those oils will burn clean in a saw.
Even most guys with bikes pick lesser oils like dominator or motul 710 to get them to burn clean. The top of the line racing stuff is only good if you're wfo open all the time on your bike.
Im currently using lucas semi synthetic, which has been fine. I ran dominator before it, the only issue is a little smoke until the saw gets up to temp.
The dominator and lucas are the oils I ran in my yz250 trail riding, the oils you picked were a smoky/oil drooling mess trail riding.
Use 927 in all my vintage bikes and all my power equipment works great and the smell can't beat it
As I'm a avid trail rider who carries a chainsaw on the front of my ktm 250 2 stroke, ive been running bike mix oil in every 2 stroke eng i own for probably 20 years
I’m currently using Dominator, but I also have several bottles of HP2. Reformed Ultra user 😂
Give Lucas semi synthetic a go if you can. It would be a pleasure to see how that stacks up at about $10 a quart.
Just found your comment. I've ran it for years. A gallon lasts me about a year doing lawn and tree service.
That's what I used in my old Husqvarna 460 rancher, had a lot of carbon build-up but saw worked and lasted for 8yrs until I sold it, and I burned maybe 5gal of fuel/yr
Rich, i LOVE your channel. It's been so helpful. My question is this: is there an issue using mix oil intended for engines with a radiator, vs oil designed for air cooled machines? I've seen some motor sport mechanics weigh in, advising against it. Your thoughts as someone who's inside chainsaws? Currently using klotz r50 moto oil and liking it very much. Thank you for the good work!
I think a boat oil is due for a test soon. I believe a high quality oil will do well in any application. We'll see...........
Right now we are using Motul 800 Offroad 50:1 in a Husqvarna 135 Mark II (max 9000 RPM) and Stihl FS 260-C brushcutter together with Liqui Moly Stabilizer and Motorbike 2T Bike-Additive (Increases performance and provides cleanliness). The truth is that both machines run like clockwork and feel very very smooth. So, for me, you could test the Motul 800 Offroad. And thank you very much for your videos! 😉
none of that increases power.
@@alexstromberg7696 I haven't noticed an increase in performance either, but that's what it says on the data sheet. It's Liqui Moly 1582, which in my case I only add to the petrol for the cleaning effect. And the stabiliser because the machines have not been used for a few months.
Back in 70's all of the guys I rode dirt bikes with used Bel-Ray 2 cycle oil, even the 2 cycle street bike riders used Bel-Ray!
That smell, love that Bell Ray smell
Motul for the win lol I love that stuff when I can find it
Is there anything special about the core of Stihl spark plug wire? I’m deep in a loosing battle with plug wire on a 241. The plug-end spring is not wanting to connect and stay in the wire. I’m thinking of just getting an automotive 5mm plug wire that’s already made up and cutting to length. The coil end is screwed in so I’m thinking as long as it isn’t a carbon core it should work
GOLDEN SPECTRO iv ran it for years in my bikes, chainsaws,weedeaters,blowers you have to try that one sometime on another test
You should test some redline racing oil
Man I feel so ignorant but what about older saws that do not have the newer high rpm's of modern saws are these oils okay for them ie 051's 041's older macs etc
Hello Richard I’m curious you test power 1 racing by castrol i run this oil for long Time and for mi it s Good oil at 40/1
A coworker of mine strongly suggested that I use a 2 cycle dirt bike motor oil in my top handle 201 stihl😊
I'm looking forward to this as well. All four will get tested in the coming days.
I've been using Motul for couple years now.
Rich lots of good info ❤❤❤
Happy holiday weekend 🍸🍸🍹🍹🍷🍷
Hi Richard…..have you ever run Lucas products?
i been using boat oil in my 2 stork motors 😁
I switched to Aspen2 fuel premix way better than mixing burns so much cleaner.
G'day Richard, im from Australia. I don't know if you have heard of Penrite oils (Aussie made)? But if you can get it online could you please do a review for penrite MC-2ST full synthetic.
The oil flow isn’t a factor once it’s mixed at the running ratio…the important factor is it’s ability to coat and lubricate wear parts and reduce friction, the other important factor is it’s ability to burn clean and reduce carbon buildup 😉👍.
One of the really good ones I buy by the gallon is a snowmobile oil called Shell Advance 2, it’s a full synthetic with JASO FD…in the new snowmobiles, detergents and recycled carbon is critical due to their exhaust valves, which will gum up and not function.
It has good flow characteristic as it’s designed to be injection fed or manually mixed.
Should give it a try 😎👍
Happy Thanksgiving
Myself have also been running Shell Advance Snow Ultra in all my 2-strokes, from the weedwacker up to my YZ125 motocross race bike, wouldn't change it for anything else.
@@michellatour150 nice. A buddy of mine was building custom hill climb snowmobiles (turbos etc) and he recommended it to me back in 2003…his sled back then were $50,000 so if that was what he was using in them, then it’s good enough for my saws…never had one let me down due to oil since! 😉👍
I have no doubt any of those oils will provide good lubrication, but racing engines tend to get a lot of maintenance and TLC, and I do question whether they have sufficient amounts of detergent and any other additives to perform reliably in a 'consumer' environment, particularly in devices other than saws. I ran Mystic Sea and Snow @50:1 ($26/g, FD rated, and made by Citgo) for many years in everything, and I continue to use it in my snow blowers and generators, with no complaints. However, I have recently begun using Saber in my saws, trimmers, etc, and while I haven't decided if I want to run it at 40 or 50:1, I have no complaints about it either.
Glad to hear you had good results with the sea & snow. I bought 3 gallons(12 quarts) for $34 on ebay, so I will be subjecting my saws and trimmers to it for a good while.
Very interesting video.
Auto Zone has quarts for 8 dollars Full Synthetic Pennzoil Snowmobile Premium Plus
2T Engine Oil labeled "suitable for JASO FD applications" cheapest full synthetic I have
seen. Maxima Premium 2 is dual certified TC-W3 and JASO FD but is 3 times the cost.
Quicksilver has PWC and Snowmobile full synthetic oils labeled to exceed JASO FD
for about 14 dollars a quart.
Hi Richard, as an experiment I been using Putoline MX9 at 50-1 in all my chainsaws for the last 9-12 months. It leaves a nice coating on the bottom end and very clean burning. Well worth looking into I would like to hear what you think of it. 🏴👍 ps; its FD rated.
I'll have to look into that one. Never heard of it.
👍👍 good stuff
Saber is my go to
I’ve been using Klotz R50 in all my saws and seems to work great- interested to know if anyone else has tried it
Yes I exclusively use the R50 and I mix it probably about 32 to one and I run it in chainsaws old McCulloch's 10-10 to 850's leaned out to the best running. have had no problems I do use 1/2 airplane fuel and no oxygenated premium. You run lean and mean and have had no problems also in the weed whacker and the blower anything two stroke. I do prefer Castor oil cause it's strictly smells great but I have a tendency to build carbon in the ports. Think more so on my lawn boy more so but that runs at oh I've got it modified I think it runs at about 4500 RPM's normally they run about 22-23 I used it in the chainsaws for a while I think it brings the RPM's down because it's got thicker film strength but I had no problems with anything with them. what the bean oil does separate out of the gas pretty badly and I had problems with the carburetor fuel diaphragm filling up with oil and not getting any gas and had trouble getting it started after sitting so I kind of switched all the chainsaws and everything to R50.. Only problem I have is once in a while the spark plug will bridge gap with the lead out of the airplane fuel and they would just die pull the plug out and there's a little string across the electrode to the ground break it off blow it off start right back up again once in a great while that happens I can deal with it
I use it, it is very good stuff.
If you have any oil that burns and leaves drool it is not the oils fault. It is the air to fuel ratio. Used to race motocross and even at 20:1 the pipe would burn gray with no goo. Three areas of the carburetor to adjust and could tune to very good at every throttle setting.
You can run straight gas with no oil and if air-fuel mixture is wrong will still leave black drool.
Well it's also to be considered that some engines are simply designed for more oil, a leaf blower recently bought by a guy I work for was 15:1 ratio, unknown to me I used my 40:1 saw mix and couldn't understand why it was getting so hot, running weird.. well upon us both looking at the manufacturer paperwork we realized the problem. 15:1 it was totally cool. Glad we didn't smoke the engine on 1st day of use.. you've got a good point but to an extent that needs considering is the designed ratio spec
I ran the caster 927 through chainsaw that was made in West Germany in the 1970s, never had an issue with the castor bean oil, ran all my two-stroke equipment 50 to 1. Love the stuff!
test castor 927 my uncle runs it in his kx 500
I buy my 2 stroke oil in gallons. It’s a lot cheaper then in quarts. I run echo red armor oil and buying it in 5 gallon buckets costs the same per gallon as gallons. Buying it in quarts costs almost twice as much per gallon. I’m just a homeowner not a professional so buying it in 55 gallon drums isn’t worth the hassle but that’s the best option if your a landscaper or tree company.
If I'm not mistaken RA is about $60ish/gallon. Killer deal it you use enough.
Echo Red Armor is a superb 2 stroke oil.
This Honda oil is on a whole other level.
I’d say Bel Ray is going to be the easiest to find and the Motul the hardest to find at a non motorcycle web site. So I test Bel Ray first and Motul last.
There's no better Twostroke oil for racing mx than 927. I raced for 25 years and have used it and so do most racers I do engines for. But it's very high flash point and if you're not on the gas WFO it will spooge out exsaust from not getting hot enough to burn and at 30-32:1. I use to use my bike gas in my saws alot and noticed the 927 carbon up in them . Ya smells great but wouldn't recommend it for a chainsaw. The hpp would be better I'd think. Also if you are in a cold climate the 927 can separate exspecally with race feal. Gad it happen years ago when was racing a winter series here in upstate NY. Treelborg tires and all 😊 it only separated in carb bowl bike would only run on choke cause oil was clogging up main jet. But ya there's no better smell than 927 with race feul
just run pre mixed Aspen 2. people here have run it in saws for 30 years without a problem. doesn't burn at all and will make a saw last.
I know regular (auto) Amsoil runs fairly quick. It would be good to see how Saber & Dom do since they are designed for 2 strokes.
He has great videos already on those oils if you go look back on his channel!
@@aaronpowell4885 I've seen those but I don't recall a run test. I think this is the first time.
The reason I mention this is they say in a normal engine most of the wear is from each dry start after sitting. Therefore they usually recommend thinner oils to get oil to the crank, rods and valvetrain quicker.
In a two stroke since the bottim end gets oil first is it just as important to have thin oils for quick movement and coverage? The slow movement of the motorcycle oils & Red Armor would indicate, maybe not.
(I am new to two strokes)
@@peskypeet in a 2 stroke engine the fuel/oil mix goes directly into the crankcase then gets pushed up the transfer ports to the combustion chamber. So bottom end sees oil before the combustion chamber sees fuel.
@@aaronpowell4885 Thank you. I did some reading and as a result edited my initial question.
Motul 800
Honda hp2
Day late and a dollar short. I was hoping for Bell-Ray. I asked in a FB chainsaw group if anyone ever used Bell-Ray. In a previous (1970's) life I always used Bell-Ray in my MR 175 Elsinore. That smell, got to love that smell.............
No worries, I'll get to the Bel Ray. Motul is up next.
@@richardflagg3084 I've been watching a lot of your videos. Great content
@@user-LucabrasiThanks!!
Please test the Motul. Very interested in trying it. Also, which Amsoil do you believe is better, Dominator or Saber? Thanks
I know there's a lot of Dominator users that swear by it, but I've tested and torn down both. Saber hands down. They both lubricate well and leave a great film. Saber burns cleaner at 40 or 50:1 than anything I've tested. All four of these bike oils will get tested in the next few days.
Motul is a good oil. But it doesn’t burn very clean. It leaves a lot of buildup in the exhaust port and muffler. That’s at a 50:1 ratio. I ran it for about a year and then switched to Bel Ray H1-R. I have been running that at 50:1 for over three years now with excellent results. I’m a production timber faller in the PNW. I do all my own saw work. From repairs to porting. So far Bel Ray is my oil of choice.
Reformed Stihl swamp water user here. I’ve been running Saber for several years now and it does great. Milling, cold starts , and not always letting the saw idle before shutting down. I don’t know how many barrels of fuel my son has through the saws and other equipment and he is still learning how to run them for a longer lifespan. We run 32:1, pistons and cylinders look like they’re just past break-in even though they have been run for years.
@@jakemesa3211What ratio do bikes run? Do you think bikes run at higher temperatures?
I’ve heard good stuff about Motul but I trust your conclusions to observations.
33:1 is ok ?
I use the bougie maxima castor 927😂😂
Looking Great Richard!!
Hair all done up.
You got a date tonight?
I feel ur eyes on me.....
@@richardflagg3084
Stranger DANGER !!!
@@richardflagg3084😂😂😂😂
I’m rooting for the H1R
Castol Go is the same as Stihl .
The best oil available is obviously Stihl HP Ultra😅
But personally I run Liqui moly motorcycle oil in everything which I'm very happy with👍
I don't think you have seen this channel in depth, because there have been many reviews and results of using Stihl HP Ultra and it is possibly one of the least recommended oils, because apart from the poor lubrication it provides it creates a lot of residue on the piston, cylinder head and exhaust, because I believe it meets the minimum JASSO standard. And the manufacturer is Castrol, but it seems that here they wanted to skimp a bit and the results of this oil are quite disappointing. Check the channel and you will find some real horror films. Unless you mentioned this oil out of pure sarcasm 🤣🤣
Hp ultra is a very dirty oil that is not FD rated for a reason! It leaves so much carbon it's as bad as gas station 2 stroke oil! If you were a saw mechanic you would understand its terrible!
@@robertomcatZX10 yep sarcasm hence the emoji, cheers👍 I stopped using HP myself years ago!
@@tedneitzel sarcasm hence the emoji 👍
Graduated cylinder 👍
Motul je najbolji