I was taught that you should only attach the artwork with only two peces of tape at the top of the artwork allowing it to hang freely. This allows the paper to breathe. Does having the artwork held at the top and bottom not restrict movement in changes of temperature?
Here you have the answer by Mal Reynolds personally: "You are perfectly correct that one should use two or more hinges at the top edge of the artwork thereby allowing the artwork to hang freely. However, this relates to mounting artwork in what I call the mount package i.e an overthrow clip mount whereby the window mount is taped/hinged to the undermount with tape along the long edge, the artwork is hinged to the undermount and held in place by the window mount. It is different when float mounting, a method used when all the edges of the artwork are to be seen and hence there is no window mount to stop the artwork from falling forward or flapping within the frame. When float mounting one uses a number of hinges to hold the artwork onto the support board, the fewer the better. One can either use ‘V - Hinges’ or ‘Pass through Hinges’"
Petef Conneely I was also taught to only use tape at the top of the art. Where I have trouble is when I use spacers but they don't hold the art in place. It slips out from under the spacers and buckles. Other than dry mounting, which isn't appropriate for some pieces, I don't know how to keep the art flat enough so it doesn't pop out from the spacers. When I place the spacers, I attach them when the glass is in the frame so the spacers are sometimes beyond the edge of the glass. Should I be attaching the spacers before I put the glass so I can align them right on the edge of the glass?
Dear Craig, this is the answer by Mal Reynolds: In the UK we call this method of float mounting 'Shadow Float Mounting.’ To achieve this a piece of conservation quality foam board can be used; I normally use 5mm foam board as this gives a good lift and shadow to the artwork. The foam board is cut slightly smaller than the artwork so as not to be seen from the sides normally 5mm or 10mm is sufficient. To attach the artwork to the foam board I will use either ‘pass through hinges’ or 'V-Hinges’ When using the 'pass through hinge’ a slit has to be cut through the foam board for the tab of the hinge to pass through whereas if using a ‘V-Hinge’ this can be attached direct onto the foam board. Once the artwork is secure on the foam board this is then adhered to the support board. A couple of points to note: This is an excellent method of showing off artwork done on paper with deckled edges; however, care should be taken for the following two reasons: If the paper is light weight then there is the possibility of the hinges showing through or the artwork cockling in the area of moisture. In which case to adhere the artwork to the foam board small dabs of starch paste could be used but again with limited moisture. This is not suitable for glossy photographs as the hinges will almost certainly show through to the front. If the artwork has been rolled it is almost impossible to get it to lie flat on the foam board. Paper has a memory and will always tend to return to its rolled position.
I am a photographer and I want to have my pro lab adhere deckled photos to foamboard, which is slightly smaller. I then would like to secure this mounted deckled print between two pieces of glass or acrylic. I have the proper spacers and frames with the right depth, I just do not know what hinge or adhesive I should use to secure the foamboard to the glass or acrylic.
Very late reply, but if you are still interested in this project I have an idea! First, Id recommend using acrylic glazing over glass in this case. Less risk of breaking and shredding the artwork, lower weight, and you can drill into it more easily than glass. get some rare earth magnets, then prepare your pedestal (the board the photo will be mounted to) by cutting it about a half inch smaller than your photo. 4-ply mat board is probably the material of choice for the pedestal. Use a punch to create four holes (or more depending on size and weight of the photo) in the pedestal near the corners that are about the size of the magnets. Next line it up on the back piece of acrylic and drill corresponding holes into the acrylic. mount magnets into the holes in the pedestal with ph-neutral pva glue, and into the acrylic with superglue. Now you can v-hinge your art around the pedestal (I'd explain in more detail, but i think just googling it would be less confusing) . Make sure you use an adhesive that is not pressure sensitive, i recommend Japanese paper tapes with rice starch, but the Lineco paper tape Mal is using in the video would also be fine. Only hinge at the top so the art can hang freely without buckling. When you place the pedestal centered on the acrylic backing and the magnets should hold it "floating". This would be totally reversible, no dry mount or spray needed. This way if a client doesn't like the presentation its a cinch for any framer to change it with minimal risk to the art. Some downsides are that v-hinges are somewhat weak due to being in the peel position rather than shear, could cause problems if you have to ship it. Im also concerned about moisture build up inside of the package and about off-gassing from the superglue (make sure its fully dry before the package is assembled, learned that the hard way.) Hope that made sense, sorry for the novel. I just love framing. Have a nice day friend!
Thanks for the tips, well done!
if you want to remove the artwork from the mat after it is adhered down the line how do you do so?
I was taught that you should only attach the artwork with only two peces of tape at the top of the artwork allowing it to hang freely. This allows the paper to breathe. Does having the artwork held at the top and bottom not restrict movement in changes of temperature?
I was thinking the same thing. Would love to hear his explanation...
Here you have the answer by Mal Reynolds personally: "You are perfectly correct that one should use two or more hinges at the top edge of the artwork thereby allowing the artwork to hang freely. However, this relates to mounting artwork in what I call the mount package i.e an overthrow clip mount whereby the window mount is taped/hinged to the undermount with tape along the long edge, the artwork is hinged to the undermount and held in place by the window mount.
It is different when float mounting, a method used when all the edges of the artwork are to be seen and hence there is no window mount to stop the artwork from falling forward or flapping within the frame. When float mounting one uses a number of hinges to hold the artwork onto the support board, the fewer the better. One can either use ‘V - Hinges’ or ‘Pass through Hinges’"
How would you recommend to float with a pedestal support board? as in to give an artwork more lift?
Petef Conneely I was also taught to only use tape at the top of the art. Where I have trouble is when I use spacers but they don't hold the art in place. It slips out from under the spacers and buckles. Other than dry mounting, which isn't appropriate for some pieces, I don't know how to keep the art flat enough so it doesn't pop out from the spacers. When I place the spacers, I attach them when the glass is in the frame so the spacers are sometimes beyond the edge of the glass. Should I be attaching the spacers before I put the glass so I can align them right on the edge of the glass?
Dear Craig, this is the answer by Mal Reynolds:
In the UK we call this method of float mounting 'Shadow Float Mounting.’ To achieve this a piece of conservation quality foam board can be used; I normally use 5mm foam board as this gives a good lift and shadow to the artwork. The foam board is cut slightly smaller than the artwork so as not to be seen from the sides normally 5mm or 10mm is sufficient. To attach the artwork to the foam board I will use either ‘pass through hinges’ or 'V-Hinges’ When using the 'pass through hinge’ a slit has to be cut through the foam board for the tab of the hinge to pass through whereas if using a ‘V-Hinge’ this can be attached direct onto the foam board. Once the artwork is secure on the foam board this is then adhered to the support board.
A couple of points to note: This is an excellent method of showing off artwork done on paper with deckled edges; however, care should be taken for the following two reasons:
If the paper is light weight then there is the possibility of the hinges showing through or the artwork cockling in the area of moisture. In which case to adhere the artwork to the foam board small dabs of starch paste could be used but again with limited moisture.
This is not suitable for glossy photographs as the hinges will almost certainly show through to the front.
If the artwork has been rolled it is almost impossible to get it to lie flat on the foam board. Paper has a memory and will always tend to return to its rolled position.
I am a photographer and I want to have my pro lab adhere deckled photos to foamboard, which is slightly smaller. I then would like to secure this mounted deckled print between two pieces of glass or acrylic. I have the proper spacers and frames with the right depth, I just do not know what hinge or adhesive I should use to secure the foamboard to the glass or acrylic.
Very late reply, but if you are still interested in this project I have an idea!
First, Id recommend using acrylic glazing over glass in this case. Less risk of breaking and shredding the artwork, lower weight, and you can drill into it more easily than glass.
get some rare earth magnets, then prepare your pedestal (the board the photo will be mounted to) by cutting it about a half inch smaller than your photo. 4-ply mat board is probably the material of choice for the pedestal.
Use a punch to create four holes (or more depending on size and weight of the photo) in the pedestal near the corners that are about the size of the magnets. Next line it up on the back piece of acrylic and drill corresponding holes into the acrylic. mount magnets into the holes in the pedestal with ph-neutral pva glue, and into the acrylic with superglue.
Now you can v-hinge your art around the pedestal (I'd explain in more detail, but i think just googling it would be less confusing) . Make sure you use an adhesive that is not pressure sensitive, i recommend Japanese paper tapes with rice starch, but the Lineco paper tape Mal is using in the video would also be fine. Only hinge at the top so the art can hang freely without buckling. When you place the pedestal centered on the acrylic backing and the magnets should hold it "floating".
This would be totally reversible, no dry mount or spray needed. This way if a client doesn't like the presentation its a cinch for any framer to change it with minimal risk to the art.
Some downsides are that v-hinges are somewhat weak due to being in the peel position rather than shear, could cause problems if you have to ship it. Im also concerned about moisture build up inside of the package and about off-gassing from the superglue (make sure its fully dry before the package is assembled, learned that the hard way.)
Hope that made sense, sorry for the novel. I just love framing. Have a nice day friend!
is the artwork removeable later on once mounted?
Would like to see how you would remove this without damaging the art!
No Gloves? When working on artwork your bare hands transfer oils to whatever you are touching.
D
This is bad
why?