Thank you sir. I appreciate you teaching me this stuff. It’s like my childhood tv shows on how to fix the old stuff. You brought a huge smile to my ugly mug. Semper fi
Another possibility for a removal tool on that pump valve is a 3/4” paddle drill for wood. Get a cheap one and grind the center tip off, it’s the right thickness to fit the slot on the valve. Good luck! Now, I want to know the best way to get the graphite packing out of the little red on off valve above the pump.
Yes, however, like Ernie said, you MUST put a significant amount of pressure on the end of the tool to keep it from popping out of the valve and damaging the slot. That’s why the 40$ tool has the threaded center to hold it in the valve slot. Good luck!
Thanks for your videos. Still need to dig out my Peak stove and try to get it working..Mine has that problem can't get the pump to work. Along with the adjustment fuel valve that doesn't want to move, and a seal leaking. Just a few problems. Thanks.
I have one of this model but somewhere in the fuel hose is clogged and it does not work good. Do you guys have any information to let me know which section to check?
The check valve removal tool is a must if you are going to work on more than 2 coleman items that require fuel to operate them. I have a set formula of what I do when I have purchased a new “item” from someone else after making my initial physical turning the knobs, and visual inspection. 1. Remove the pump and toss the neoprene cup (if that’s what’s in it) and put on a leather one and dip it in neatsfoot oil (or just dip the leather one that is in it already). 2. Remove the check valve and see if it works or not. If it does put it back. If it doesn’t just like he said. Let it sit in a small “bath” of carb cleaner overnight and then shake the heck out of it (usually it works). If that doesn’t then let it “simmer” in a very small pot of vinegar for about 30 min on the stove and that should clean every last bit of scudge off of it and then you can put it back. If that doesn’t work…time to go to the boneyard! 3. Pull the Generator and clean that out. If after these three things I can’t get the lantern to light then that’s time to send it to my ICU area. That’s a whole different itemized list of repair options!
I had a check valve in my 200A Birthday Lantern that I first tried for over a week to clean it in place but I needed to pull it. I soaked it in carburetor cleaner, blew some through then I had to boil it in vinegar! I put it back in and it still does not work. The air leaks incredibly fast through the valve. The ball bearing must be pitted. I am ordering a new check valve.
hello my friend, thanks for your tips. Now I also have a question, I have a Coleman 523 cooker, unfortunately there is black rust or gummed-up impurities in the tank. what is the best way to clean the tank? thanks in advance.
Pour carb cleaner in the tank and swish it around and let it set. Put a handful of small sheet metal screws in the fount and shake the daylights out of it. Take them out and fill the fount with vinegar and let it set for a day. Flush it all out with water and then blow it out with an air hose or can of Dust-Off after the water comes out clear. Then put a bit of alcohol in the fount and swish that around. Pour it out and blow it out again. Let the fount dry completely. That should do it!
I know this is a bit old but I've recovered many Coleman stoves and lanterns with rust inside the tanks. I rebuild and restore them as a hobby. It depends on how badly rusted it is though. Too much and it might not be safe to hold pressure. But if it's not too bad I find that washing it out inside with degreaser first and then rinsing with hot soapy water to get rid of all greasy residue is a best first step. Then fill with something like evaporust (I use rust Check Enviro Rust Wash) and let it soak overnight. Drain it out and swirl around. Might need to repeat until all rust is gone. Rinse out thoroughly, and here is the trick, rinse out with methanol to get rid of ALL traces of water. Once it is fully rinsed you want to heat it up to make sure it is fully dry. I put mine in a warm oven (heated to around 120°F) not a hot one and just let it sit. Putting out in the HOT sun is good too. The point is to get it fully dry as fast as possible without overheating it and damaging the paint. That will do it. As long as you drain it fully after use OR leave it completely filled with fresh fuel and a tight cap you should be good. Just make sure no water or condensation gets in the tank and it won't rust on you. You can use a gas tank sealer but be VERY careful not to get it in the air tube inside the tank. this lets the air that is pumped in pressurize the tank. If you seal that off your tank is toast.
Proof that the right tool for the job making things look easy.
Thank you sir. I appreciate you teaching me this stuff. It’s like my childhood tv shows on how to fix the old stuff. You brought a huge smile to my ugly mug.
Semper fi
Another possibility for a removal tool on that pump valve is a 3/4” paddle drill for wood. Get a cheap one and grind the center tip off, it’s the right thickness to fit the slot on the valve. Good luck! Now, I want to know the best way to get the graphite packing out of the little red on off valve above the pump.
does or did it work?
Yes, however, like Ernie said, you MUST put a significant amount of pressure on the end of the tool to keep it from popping out of the valve and damaging the slot. That’s why the 40$ tool has the threaded center to hold it in the valve slot. Good luck!
Thanks Ernie! Keep up the good work.
Thanks for your videos. Still need to dig out my Peak stove and try to get it working..Mine has that problem can't get the pump to work. Along with the adjustment fuel valve that doesn't want to move, and a seal leaking. Just a few problems. Thanks.
Thank you this Video and your time and knowledge ...
I have one of this model but somewhere in the fuel hose is clogged and it does not work good. Do you guys have any information to let me know which section to check?
Looks good - I am the maker of the tool
The check valve removal tool is a must if you are going to work on more than 2 coleman items that require fuel to operate them. I have a set formula of what I do when I have purchased a new “item” from someone else after making my initial physical turning the knobs, and visual inspection. 1. Remove the pump and toss the neoprene cup (if that’s what’s in it) and put on a leather one and dip it in neatsfoot oil (or just dip the leather one that is in it already). 2. Remove the check valve and see if it works or not. If it does put it back. If it doesn’t just like he said. Let it sit in a small “bath” of carb cleaner overnight and then shake the heck out of it (usually it works). If that doesn’t then let it “simmer” in a very small pot of vinegar for about 30 min on the stove and that should clean every last bit of scudge off of it and then you can put it back. If that doesn’t work…time to go to the boneyard! 3. Pull the Generator and clean that out. If after these three things I can’t get the lantern to light then that’s time to send it to my ICU area. That’s a whole different itemized list of repair options!
Thanks
Can't you just spray carb cleaner down there and rinse out the tank afterward with a little naphtha?
Very cool, those check valve removal tools are hard to come by. Yours runs nicer than mine, are you using Coleman fuel?
I had a check valve in my 200A Birthday Lantern that I first tried for over a week to clean it in place but I needed to pull it. I soaked it in carburetor cleaner, blew some through then I had to boil it in vinegar! I put it back in and it still does not work. The air leaks incredibly fast through the valve. The ball bearing must be pitted. I am ordering a new check valve.
hello my friend, thanks for your tips. Now I also have a question, I have a Coleman 523 cooker, unfortunately there is black rust or gummed-up impurities in the tank. what is the best way to clean the tank? thanks in advance.
Pour carb cleaner in the tank and swish it around and let it set. Put a handful of small sheet metal screws in the fount and shake the daylights out of it. Take them out and fill the fount with vinegar and let it set for a day. Flush it all out with water and then blow it out with an air hose or can of Dust-Off after the water comes out clear. Then put a bit of alcohol in the fount and swish that around. Pour it out and blow it out again. Let the fount dry completely. That should do it!
The Probable I have is I bought a lantern that has rust in the tank...Do you have a way to remove it and seal it so the rust doesn't keep coming back?
I know this is a bit old but I've recovered many Coleman stoves and lanterns with rust inside the tanks. I rebuild and restore them as a hobby. It depends on how badly rusted it is though. Too much and it might not be safe to hold pressure. But if it's not too bad I find that washing it out inside with degreaser first and then rinsing with hot soapy water to get rid of all greasy residue is a best first step. Then fill with something like evaporust (I use rust Check Enviro Rust Wash) and let it soak overnight. Drain it out and swirl around. Might need to repeat until all rust is gone. Rinse out thoroughly, and here is the trick, rinse out with methanol to get rid of ALL traces of water. Once it is fully rinsed you want to heat it up to make sure it is fully dry. I put mine in a warm oven (heated to around 120°F) not a hot one and just let it sit. Putting out in the HOT sun is good too. The point is to get it fully dry as fast as possible without overheating it and damaging the paint. That will do it. As long as you drain it fully after use OR leave it completely filled with fresh fuel and a tight cap you should be good. Just make sure no water or condensation gets in the tank and it won't rust on you. You can use a gas tank sealer but be VERY careful not to get it in the air tube inside the tank. this lets the air that is pumped in pressurize the tank. If you seal that off your tank is toast.