Thanks to this video I figured out that I accedentally bought the same hear set that was stripped by tension so now I have to just replace the spring entirely lol you saved me more than you cost me
great video. i watched this video to get an understanding of gear ratios and how to find out what the ratio is on a gear set because i have a gun that i need to replace the gears in but i couldn't find anything on what the gear set was. the original gears in the gun are plastic but i need to change them cause may have been grinded down by a better motor i put in the gun...
I find a 16:1 set or a 15:1 set to be a good Jack of all trades set up. With a weaker spring, you'll see a decent jump in rof, and with a heavier spring maybe only 1 or 2 rounds a second faster, but even that's enough to notice.
So what would be a good motor for a stock build gun, if i didnt wanna hear the whiney noises of the stock motor? Like, whats a good switch that wouldn't cost much but will make the gun more efficient with both fps and rps?
I'm weir, and proud of it. I only use full auto messing around in the back yard. Our field in Chiang ai allows 500 fps for bolt action, and 450 for semi and 3 round burst. They measure only fps, and with .20 bbs. I am in the process of installing GATE Merf 3.2s in all my aegs set for semi and 3 rd. Would you suggest I stay with stock gears and stuff or go for Steel bushings/gears, and high torque motor? Our games are usually only 10-30 minutes long.
Ron Torrence I would replace the bushings with steel ones for sure and make sure to get an shs 14 steel tooth piston. I only change the gearset based on the brand of the rifle.
Hello and thanks for the quality explanation! I've bought a umarex UMP sportsline/competition and the internals are the worst so I thought to use it as a tech project. It has a v3 gearbox and after taking it apart for about 10 times, I now know how to work on it. I want the build to be able to shoot descent distance and also have some nice rate of fire. I am thinking of buying 13:1 gears combined with a mosfet. My question is what motor type should I buy for this project and do you think this would be able to take a 11.1 lipo, considered I buy quality gears? (I usually play outdoors). Love to hear from you @Cthulhu153 or anyone else in the teching field.
@@sjdude922 mostley outdoor. So i reckon accuracy and range are important. Maybe slightly bigger gears and a high torque motor are the way. Im just so torn at this moment. Also i get that quality is more important but id like to have a snappy trigger.
bartd94 general rule of thumb when it comes to lowering your gear ratio, is increasing the TPA on your motor. You really don’t have to go below 16:1s if you have a good motor over 35k or below ~18-20 TPA, especially if you’re using a mosfet as the energy transfer will be more efficient and trigger response will lessen from that quicker energy transfer(to an extent). As far as accuracy and range goes, a lot less reliant on the GB that it is the bucking and nub. That being said the more consistent your air seal is, the more consistent your bb trajectory will be. For range and accuracy look into Rhopping your barrel.
400fps is not too difficult to pull off. Fps is based more on the compression set and spring strength. Compression connects to barrel length as well. I like going full lonex compression and a guarder 120 spring for 400fps and a 363mm innerbarrel. The higher rps is based more on the gearset, motor and battery. If your gun already shoots your desired fps, then just switch to 13:1 or 12:1 gearset. That will increase your rps, but typically nothing over 30-35rps; depending on motor and battery. There is a lot on building a gearbox than just dropping in a single part.
I also have a snow wolf Barrett m107 I am optimizing, as mote of a support gun. The outer barrel and muzzle brake could accommodate a 950mm inner barrel. so far the longest I have found is 800mm What are your thoughts on going loner for range and accuracy?
Ron Torrence barrel length just helps with groupings. Range is an fps and hop up quality issue. First improve the hop unit and bucking to the extent you can based on the rifle. Because this is a rifle that needs accurate long shots yes it should have the longest available barrel but issue is for standard aeg cylinders the max barrel volume to cylinder volume is 509mm or m16 barrel. Not sure on the internals for the snow wolf barrel so not sure if you can max out the barrel length. To be safe I would match the stock barrel length. If you have the funds to experiment go right ahead.
Cthulhu153 jeez, this comment (and video) really gets my mind rolling. I have done much thought on volume engineering, and I’ve thought of a few paths, not too far in depth with any proof of concept. 1. V2.5 gearboxes [in a&k sr25 or L85] have 19 teeth, the company obviously didn’t want this gun to be teched at max limits for its size though. 2. Putting a bore up cylinder and parts with a “stock” -in theory- SSG such as this gun could squeeze by a bit more barrel volume. Obviously if this were to be done a TBB would be on the same page as essential to volume maxing, if this guy’s 800mm barrel for whatever reason isn’t TBB. One last interesting thing I have found is that Hunter-seeker Airsoft has a spread sheet for free with TONS of technical aeg info applicable possibly to situations like this when pushing the limits (which I love to think about) but don’t have thousands to spend on experimentation.
Hola ! necesito saber que seria recomendable. Tengo una gyg CM16 rider stock, y quiero incrementar sus RPS, cambio engranajes 13:1 + motor stock o engranajes stock + motor high speed 25k RPM ? HI ! I need recomendation. I have a Gyg CM16 Rider stock, and y need increase RPS, I must change gear 13:1 + motor stock or moto high speed 25k rpm+ gear stock?
I recently installed a ASG Ultimate boost 30k motor and it was double cycling with a m100 spring. If I install a 13:1 SHS gearset will it reduce the overspin on the motor, or do I still have to get a bigger spring?
Yep, everythings stock but the motor and I shimmed the gears and adjusted the AOE. To clarify the gun I am using is a krytac alpha CRB. Is double cycling normal with this setup?
Nice video. I´m entire day searching for something like this. But I have question hope you can reply. I´m going to have p90 from cyma. Soooo I want it high rps. So I´m gonna buy 11.1v battery, 13:1 gears, soft spring (I have cca m90-m100). But I wonder what motor. Motor at what rpm should I buy? I heard 18k-22k but that was only one comment.
It also depends on your intended FPS/joules. Where ever you play should determine your intended max fps for full auto or burst play. Then finally you need a goal for your ROF. Your current parts sound like 300 to 350 fps depending on your barrel length and cylinder type combo. So an 18k to 20k motor with that garset and batter should get at least 25rps. So yeah final stats will be 300fps like with an m90 spring and 25rps with an 18k motor with 13:1 gears and an 11.1 battery. Also remember the c rating will affect the performance as well. Look for 20 or 30 maximum C rating. That'll get you max performance from the motor without wasting power or creating too much heat.
@@sjdude922 We have not fps limits (we know when too much is too much xd). Sooo I want as much rps/rof as is possible without doing complex/expensive dsg build. I have stock cm.060b (today arrived), never disassembled. Spring unknown but probably stronger one (maybe even 120). Sooo let´s say I´d do 13:1, m100-m110, 11.1v I see on shop 20/30c (literally 20/30c) so what xxK motor? Tell me highest K on best performance.
@@Shajzemon_SVK You can always get a higher quality 45k motor such as an action army or a tienly but then you're hitting the 45+ RPS range and you'll need good mags to feed that. Best performance for me so far is my warhead brushless motor but those aren't cheap. I'd also advise an electronic trigger such as a jefftron leviathan or gate titan. You'll want the ability to tune the build with active braking and precocking for the maximum effective experience.
What do you Think about changing my 18:1 to 14:1. I already got 1.95jule on m130 (Peru n hybrid v2) and asg 22k motor. The trigger reaction is awesome but i would like to shot Faster in full auto Mode.
Ok. Then just make sure it's a quality set. You can attempt to get away with a rocket or shs gear set but if this is a replica you don't plan on parting with it may be time to convert to siegetek. Just so you don't risk losing teeth.
Depends on the build. 13:1 gives high response time so it is also a higher rps ssg. If you use quality 13:1 gears you can use full auto at 400fps with the appropriate spring and compression setup and you should be doing 20+ rps depending on the battery and motor. 13:1 with a high response time can give you the best semi auto experience for indoor. You could pair it with a high torque motor for high response semi auto gameplay. Or if your power is low enough you could go with a higher speed motor so it can be used for semi auto indoor play and full auto outdoor play. The better question is what build do I want to do with 13:1? Then ask what parts can achieve that goal? That question can be answered a lot easier.
alpha beta probably late, but frankly, a V2 GB is not gonna be able to run 500fps for any amount of time with any amount of reliability. The design of the GB is too weak and you risk a catastrophic failure, you’re also going to have a hell of time even getting the spring in the gearbox
So I am looking to build a Dsg that is strictly for trigger response (I can’t use full auto at my field) and i need it to shoot around 350 with a .2 bb (can’t go over) so I was wondering what gear ratio would be best and what motor tpa would be best for that.
So you'll want a higher tpa. Go for 20TPA or higher. A lot of strength for those high tension springs on semi auto. If you plan on maxing out the dsg performance at 350 go tienly for motor brand. Next best would be asg. But between the two of you can afford tienly in your build cost go for it. If you were at 400fps then for sure ASG only cause they can go as far as 28TPA.
Could you send me a link to the motor and if I am using a m100 spring and wanted the 28tpa asg motor what gear ratio would I need for trigger response and what gear ratio would I need for the tienly motor
@@creepernic27nicolas34 First ly Yeah I can send you the links. But second you cannot do a dsg build with an m100 spring and get 350 fps. The spring must be m140 or higher depending on barrel length and cylinder.
Oh so because of the high torque motor you cannot use a weaker spring other wise you can over wind it correct? So what spring and gear ratio would you recommend to get 350 FPS with the motor you recommended and a 200mm barrel? (I’m sorry if I am seem unreasonable I just would like to understand)
@@creepernic27nicolas34 No worries questions are always welcome. No the spring firstly determines fps potential. This combined with the cylinder gives max ability for the gearbox to push air out of the barrel. M100 will give you 330fps with a .2g bb at best. A dsg greatly reduces your potential cylinder volume thus severely impacting your output fps. This is why high tension springs are needed. They produce more force on a smaller volume of cylinder to give a similar fps as a cylinder with greater volume.
Ok so i’m doing a trigger response build with these parts: SHS 13:1 Gears SHS High Torque Motor SHS M130 Spring EastCrane(E&C) Reinforced Gearbox 11.1v Lipo Battery
Definitely sounds like a snappy semi auto response. I'd throw in a simple mosfet so the power goes directly to the motor and doesn't go through the trigger contacts. Unless you have the funds for an electronic trigger.
Got a set of 16:1 and the only gear that was different then my stock 18:1 gears was the spur. It had 19 teeth up top not 20. Literally everything else was the same with the rest of the spur and the other two gears. When I did the math it came out to 17.82:1 for my so called 16:1 😑
Do you mean a 19 tooth sector gear? The spur gear doesn't have a portion of teeth "up top". There are 19 tooth sector gears for l85 and sr25 cause some models have a larger piston.
@@sjdude922 nope lol The spur gear has a large set of teeth on bottom that contacts the bevel and smaller ring of teeth above those teeth that contact the sector. The teeth from the spur to sector was 1 tooth short of the teeth on my "18:1" spur gear. Everything else was identical
Easily the best explanation of Aeg theory on all of UA-cam
I don’t know why your channel doesn’t get more traffic, compared to almost any other channel your information is presented the best and most clearly.
Probably cause I don't do the typical UA-cam stuff that gets content promoted easier. But I definitely need to upload more. Would help a little lol.
Excellent video for my understanding.
Thanks to this video I figured out that I accedentally bought the same hear set that was stripped by tension so now I have to just replace the spring entirely lol you saved me more than you cost me
you don't know how much this helped me. thank you so much!
Really well done, thank you for this.
great video. i watched this video to get an understanding of gear ratios and how to find out what the ratio is on a gear set because i have a gun that i need to replace the gears in but i couldn't find anything on what the gear set was. the original gears in the gun are plastic but i need to change them cause may have been grinded down by a better motor i put in the gun...
Amazing video
Great explanation video.
I'm looking at building a faster rps and trigger response.
Might buy a boneyard to attempt as I've never taken an AEG apart
Really good video. Thank you
Great video
Thank you so much for this 👊
Great Video ! Greetings from Argentina 🇦🇷!!
ty
Dude you NEED to make more video content!
I find a 16:1 set or a 15:1 set to be a good Jack of all trades set up. With a weaker spring, you'll see a decent jump in rof, and with a heavier spring maybe only 1 or 2 rounds a second faster, but even that's enough to notice.
For sure. Only thing left at that point is motor selection.
Exactly the 10,000th viewer :O
So what would be a good motor for a stock build gun, if i didnt wanna hear the whiney noises of the stock motor? Like, whats a good switch that wouldn't cost much but will make the gun more efficient with both fps and rps?
I'm weir, and proud of it. I only use full auto messing around in the back yard. Our field in Chiang ai allows 500 fps for bolt action, and 450 for semi and 3 round burst. They measure only fps, and with .20 bbs. I am in the process of installing GATE Merf 3.2s in all my aegs set for semi and 3 rd. Would you suggest I stay with stock gears and stuff or go for Steel bushings/gears, and high torque motor? Our games are usually only 10-30 minutes long.
Ron Torrence I would replace the bushings with steel ones for sure and make sure to get an shs 14 steel tooth piston. I only change the gearset based on the brand of the rifle.
Ron Torrence also the motor should be changed for a hightorque. You will get a better semi-auto response.
Hello and thanks for the quality explanation!
I've bought a umarex UMP sportsline/competition and the internals are the worst so I thought to use it as a tech project. It has a v3 gearbox and after taking it apart for about 10 times, I now know how to work on it. I want the build to be able to shoot descent distance and also have some nice rate of fire. I am thinking of buying 13:1 gears combined with a mosfet. My question is what motor type should I buy for this project and do you think this would be able to take a 11.1 lipo, considered I buy quality gears? (I usually play outdoors). Love to hear from you @Cthulhu153 or anyone else in the teching field.
It has a ics barrel (m4 length) installed.
Quality is more a question of power. What gameplay is the replica going to be used for? Cqb or Outdoor.
@@sjdude922 mostley outdoor. So i reckon accuracy and range are important. Maybe slightly bigger gears and a high torque motor are the way. Im just so torn at this moment. Also i get that quality is more important but id like to have a snappy trigger.
bartd94 general rule of thumb when it comes to lowering your gear ratio, is increasing the TPA on your motor. You really don’t have to go below 16:1s if you have a good motor over 35k or below ~18-20 TPA, especially if you’re using a mosfet as the energy transfer will be more efficient and trigger response will lessen from that quicker energy transfer(to an extent). As far as accuracy and range goes, a lot less reliant on the GB that it is the bucking and nub. That being said the more consistent your air seal is, the more consistent your bb trajectory will be. For range and accuracy look into Rhopping your barrel.
What if I did a 16.1 with a M130 spring ?
What if you want a gun to shoot between 390-400FPS and high RPS ?? What gear ration gears would you get ?
400fps is not too difficult to pull off. Fps is based more on the compression set and spring strength. Compression connects to barrel length as well. I like going full lonex compression and a guarder 120 spring for 400fps and a 363mm innerbarrel. The higher rps is based more on the gearset, motor and battery. If your gun already shoots your desired fps, then just switch to 13:1 or 12:1 gearset. That will increase your rps, but typically nothing over 30-35rps; depending on motor and battery. There is a lot on building a gearbox than just dropping in a single part.
I also have a snow wolf Barrett m107 I am optimizing, as mote of a support gun. The outer barrel and muzzle brake could accommodate a 950mm inner barrel. so far the longest I have found is 800mm What are your thoughts on going loner for range and accuracy?
Ron Torrence barrel length just helps with groupings. Range is an fps and hop up quality issue. First improve the hop unit and bucking to the extent you can based on the rifle. Because this is a rifle that needs accurate long shots yes it should have the longest available barrel but issue is for standard aeg cylinders the max barrel volume to cylinder volume is 509mm or m16 barrel. Not sure on the internals for the snow wolf barrel so not sure if you can max out the barrel length. To be safe I would match the stock barrel length. If you have the funds to experiment go right ahead.
Cthulhu153 jeez, this comment (and video) really gets my mind rolling. I have done much thought on volume engineering, and I’ve thought of a few paths, not too far in depth with any proof of concept.
1. V2.5 gearboxes [in a&k sr25 or L85] have 19 teeth, the company obviously didn’t want this gun to be teched at max limits for its size though.
2. Putting a bore up cylinder and parts with a “stock” -in theory- SSG such as this gun could squeeze by a bit more barrel volume. Obviously if this were to be done a TBB would be on the same page as essential to volume maxing, if this guy’s 800mm barrel for whatever reason isn’t TBB.
One last interesting thing I have found is that Hunter-seeker Airsoft has a spread sheet for free with TONS of technical aeg info applicable possibly to situations like this when pushing the limits (which I love to think about) but don’t have thousands to spend on experimentation.
@@sjdude922 How's your cylinder/barrel volume ratio hanging in there my guy
Hola ! necesito saber que seria recomendable. Tengo una gyg CM16 rider stock, y quiero incrementar sus RPS, cambio engranajes 13:1 + motor stock o engranajes stock + motor high speed 25k RPM ?
HI ! I need recomendation. I have a Gyg CM16 Rider stock, and y need increase RPS, I must change gear 13:1 + motor stock or moto high speed 25k rpm+ gear stock?
Un high speed pero le tienes que cambiar los gears y spring
Hi! Do I need the sector gear delay chip with the 12:1 gears?
Not necessary, it would work fine without out one. But I would use one just to prevent any feeding issues. Pretty cheap anyways.
And about the 100:200 and 100:300 gears sets?
They use a slightly different equation to calculate their rating but same principle applies. Larger the number, greater the torque.
my brain just got bigger
I recently installed a ASG Ultimate boost 30k motor and it was double cycling with a m100 spring. If I install a 13:1 SHS gearset will it reduce the overspin on the motor, or do I still have to get a bigger spring?
You are having double feed off a standard 18:1 stock gear ratio? Asking to clarify
Yep, everythings stock but the motor and I shimmed the gears and adjusted the AOE. To clarify the gun I am using is a krytac alpha CRB. Is double cycling normal with this setup?
Xyfler get a heavier spring like 120 or 130 or use a weaker battery like 7.4
I already switched to a m125 but thanks
Nice video. I´m entire day searching for something like this. But I have question hope you can reply. I´m going to have p90 from cyma. Soooo I want it high rps. So I´m gonna buy 11.1v battery, 13:1 gears, soft spring (I have cca m90-m100). But I wonder what motor. Motor at what rpm should I buy? I heard 18k-22k but that was only one comment.
It also depends on your intended FPS/joules. Where ever you play should determine your intended max fps for full auto or burst play. Then finally you need a goal for your ROF. Your current parts sound like 300 to 350 fps depending on your barrel length and cylinder type combo. So an 18k to 20k motor with that garset and batter should get at least 25rps. So yeah final stats will be 300fps like with an m90 spring and 25rps with an 18k motor with 13:1 gears and an 11.1 battery. Also remember the c rating will affect the performance as well. Look for 20 or 30 maximum C rating. That'll get you max performance from the motor without wasting power or creating too much heat.
@@sjdude922 We have not fps limits (we know when too much is too much xd). Sooo I want as much rps/rof as is possible without doing complex/expensive dsg build. I have stock cm.060b (today arrived), never disassembled. Spring unknown but probably stronger one (maybe even 120). Sooo let´s say I´d do 13:1, m100-m110, 11.1v I see on shop 20/30c (literally 20/30c) so what xxK motor? Tell me highest K on best performance.
@@Shajzemon_SVK You can always get a higher quality 45k motor such as an action army or a tienly but then you're hitting the 45+ RPS range and you'll need good mags to feed that. Best performance for me so far is my warhead brushless motor but those aren't cheap. I'd also advise an electronic trigger such as a jefftron leviathan or gate titan. You'll want the ability to tune the build with active braking and precocking for the maximum effective experience.
What do you Think about changing my 18:1 to 14:1. I already got 1.95jule on m130 (Peru n hybrid v2) and asg 22k motor. The trigger reaction is awesome but i would like to shot Faster in full auto Mode.
Are you using 11.1v?
@@sjdude922 ofc
Ok. Then just make sure it's a quality set. You can attempt to get away with a rocket or shs gear set but if this is a replica you don't plan on parting with it may be time to convert to siegetek. Just so you don't risk losing teeth.
If i end up using a 13:1 gearset would i go for the high torque or high speed motor?
Depends on the build. 13:1 gives high response time so it is also a higher rps ssg. If you use quality 13:1 gears you can use full auto at 400fps with the appropriate spring and compression setup and you should be doing 20+ rps depending on the battery and motor. 13:1 with a high response time can give you the best semi auto experience for indoor. You could pair it with a high torque motor for high response semi auto gameplay. Or if your power is low enough you could go with a higher speed motor so it can be used for semi auto indoor play and full auto outdoor play. The better question is what build do I want to do with 13:1? Then ask what parts can achieve that goal? That question can be answered a lot easier.
Cthulhu153 what do I need to make my Ares Amoeba AM013 to shoot 500fps and shoots straight like a laser I need your advise. I’m a newbie
alpha beta probably late, but frankly, a V2 GB is not gonna be able to run 500fps for any amount of time with any amount of reliability. The design of the GB is too weak and you risk a catastrophic failure, you’re also going to have a hell of time even getting the spring in the gearbox
So I am looking to build a Dsg that is strictly for trigger response (I can’t use full auto at my field) and i need it to shoot around 350 with a .2 bb (can’t go over) so I was wondering what gear ratio would be best and what motor tpa would be best for that.
So you'll want a higher tpa. Go for 20TPA or higher. A lot of strength for those high tension springs on semi auto. If you plan on maxing out the dsg performance at 350 go tienly for motor brand. Next best would be asg. But between the two of you can afford tienly in your build cost go for it. If you were at 400fps then for sure ASG only cause they can go as far as 28TPA.
Could you send me a link to the motor and if I am using a m100 spring and wanted the 28tpa asg motor what gear ratio would I need for trigger response and what gear ratio would I need for the tienly motor
@@creepernic27nicolas34 First ly Yeah I can send you the links. But second you cannot do a dsg build with an m100 spring and get 350 fps. The spring must be m140 or higher depending on barrel length and cylinder.
Oh so because of the high torque motor you cannot use a weaker spring other wise you can over wind it correct? So what spring and gear ratio would you recommend to get 350 FPS with the motor you recommended and a 200mm barrel?
(I’m sorry if I am seem unreasonable I just would like to understand)
@@creepernic27nicolas34 No worries questions are always welcome. No the spring firstly determines fps potential. This combined with the cylinder gives max ability for the gearbox to push air out of the barrel. M100 will give you 330fps with a .2g bb at best. A dsg greatly reduces your potential cylinder volume thus severely impacting your output fps. This is why high tension springs are needed. They produce more force on a smaller volume of cylinder to give a similar fps as a cylinder with greater volume.
Ok so i’m doing a trigger response build with these parts:
SHS 13:1 Gears
SHS High Torque Motor
SHS M130 Spring
EastCrane(E&C) Reinforced Gearbox
11.1v Lipo Battery
Definitely sounds like a snappy semi auto response. I'd throw in a simple mosfet so the power goes directly to the motor and doesn't go through the trigger contacts. Unless you have the funds for an electronic trigger.
Got a set of 16:1 and the only gear that was different then my stock 18:1 gears was the spur. It had 19 teeth up top not 20. Literally everything else was the same with the rest of the spur and the other two gears. When I did the math it came out to 17.82:1 for my so called 16:1 😑
Do you mean a 19 tooth sector gear? The spur gear doesn't have a portion of teeth "up top". There are 19 tooth sector gears for l85 and sr25 cause some models have a larger piston.
@@sjdude922 nope lol
The spur gear has a large set of teeth on bottom that contacts the bevel and smaller ring of teeth above those teeth that contact the sector. The teeth from the spur to sector was 1 tooth short of the teeth on my "18:1" spur gear. Everything else was identical
Great video