Thanks for the great video and thorough explanation. I have enjoyed your basement series. One thing I just wanted to add. I used the orange fireblock foam as you did and just failed my inspection. Inspector said the foam does not meet ASTM E 136. So make sure when doing this to check with your local municipality on specific certifications required for fireblocking material before beginning.
Good info! I don't wanna be "that guy" but sealing your top plate cavities is just as important as insulating the walls. My home leaked like crazy so I culked all the corners and joints, then put the insulation back in there. Just a suggestion, but you're probably already done.
Why not use Roxul for the fireblock? It's essentially fireproof and others on UA-cam seem to use that instead. More flexible, adds insulation and less labor. Thoughts?
I believe you can use Roxul everywhere if you want. I thought the way I did mine was more permanent and I'm not sure I could've gotten away locally with my township by using Roxul everywhere. Definitely worth asking your local building inspector though if you're considering it as their word is gospel on the matter.
I know this video is two years old, but I thought I’d reach out to you anyway. I have a wrapped basement in which my framing is in front of the insulation, do I still need to do vertical fireblocking every 10feet against the insulation?
So, ultimately, this question needs to be answered by your local building inspector as they're the ones that will either require it or not. My assumption is it would be required. In that case, you would need to cut grooves into your insulation to accommodate the firestop.
Hey, great video! I live in New Jersey as well, but my township is not that helpful.. question for you.. what was the average width of the vertical fire blocking for your walls without pipes? Did you need to leave a space from the foundation wall and the framing? Thanks!
One of the walls I need to install fire block on has about a two in gap between the top of the concrete wall and a joist that runs parallel above it. Can I use 2x6 boards for the fire block? I would need 6 inches of depth to make it flush with 2 inch foam board insulation plus the 2x4s for the wall frame.
Gonna be honest with you. Having a hard time visualizing what you are describing. Best course of action would be to post a picture in my Facebook group (facebook.com/groups/OurHomefromScratch/) or get approval from your local building inspector.
@@OHFScratch When I click the link, it says it's not available. Here is a picture of what I am talking about. img.photobucket.com/albums/v240/nukemgt/IMG_0393_zpsojzbrlhq.jpg
Good vid , without examining the code, seems like cutting off the vertical from the horizontal is key. Once a diy can understand this concept, next they can examine the code for appropriate materials for both fireblocking and draftstopping. Both are regulated by code through out the country.
Great video series. You might cover this in another video, but did you cover your rim joist insulation with drywall or do you only have to do that if you insulate the rim joist with foamboard? I insulated my rim joists with rigid foam and believe I need to cover with drywall. Thanks in advance.
When you install sheet rock on the ceiling, will you nail near the fire block risking breaking or crackling the rock or nailing away from the fire blocking so as not to demage or break it? thks
The sheetrock gets installed on the ceiling first and will butt up against some of the fireblock, but there's no overlap. So, there's no risk of damaging the sheetrock if you screw or nail near the edges of the sheetrock close to the fireblock.
No. A fireblock board of some kind is required. You can use roxul or fireblock foam to plug the small gaps between the fireblock board and the foundation though.
Depends. I just had my 4-way today and they are requiring me to use Roxul. No wood needed. However for the horizontal fireblock I need 1/2 OSB for that every 10'.
Wish I knew what video it was but this guy was showing how different insulation works and one of it was a 'fire-rated expanding foam'. It didn't self-extinguish and burned quite significantly.
Adam, the "fire-rated expanding foam", as you called it, is designed to burn the surface area and seal the penetration. The surface area burns rather rapidly and once it is burned away, the remaining foam is actually quite difficult to ignite. Seems counter-intuitive at first, but when applied correctly it does quite well what it's designed to.
I’ve watched your previous videos on this subject I note that you’ve left the old “stuffed” insulation in the sill joists. Is this deliberate & if so why?
Instead of the fiberglass, could you use some cut to size foam board in those spaces? I will be finishing a basement that currently has no insulation, and would rather not use fiberglass insulation.
Easily seen how the fireblocking is attached to the joists that are at right angles, but not clear how the fireblocking attached when the joist runs parallel to the interlocking.
You need to add 2x4 blocking to span the space between the joists. Add a 2x4 every 16" or so. Then your fireblocking will be at right angles to the added blocking.
Great Video! But you may want to explain the differences between balloon, platform, timber and OVE Framing before people get themselves into trouble. Just and tip, but thanks for the video.
I love this series of videos, on basements. However, your inspector, is supposedly worried about the fire stop. However, its interesting as for a fire strop, they want you to use cement board. But what is much more of a fire hazard is that many wires bundled together, through electromagnetic induction. However, you are in the basement, so these wires aren't being used there isn't that much heat. However, if these are wires, that are chased upstairs that is semi-dangerous. But, the bundle should be separated, and it should be run,,, up in the floor joists. Sorry, this is just humble opinion. I've been doing electrical work for 30+ years now. But otherwise a great series if videos!
Well it was wired without the intent of having it finished. The house was recently completely rewired this past summer after the tornado. Much cleaner this time around.
Thanks. My inspector told me to block with 2x and spray foam, now I know exactly what he meant. I appreciate you sharing this.
You're welcome.
Thank you very much for this video. I was wondering myself on how to do this on the perimeter of our basement as well. Very helpful!
Thanks for the great video and thorough explanation. I have enjoyed your basement series. One thing I just wanted to add. I used the orange fireblock foam as you did and just failed my inspection. Inspector said the foam does not meet ASTM E 136. So make sure when doing this to check with your local municipality on specific certifications required for fireblocking material before beginning.
Wow that's crazy, but you're right. Your inspector is boss when it comes to that stuff.
Inspector said the exact same thing to me. He recommended wool. Crazy how much codes vary from town to town.
Yeah I read my local code, it required wood, drywall, or mineral wool.
These videos are awesome thank you
thanks!
@@OHFScratch does the fireblock long edge have to match the header which holds the studs or will it overhang?
Good info! I don't wanna be "that guy" but sealing your top plate cavities is just as important as insulating the walls. My home leaked like crazy so I culked all the corners and joints, then put the insulation back in there. Just a suggestion, but you're probably already done.
The top plate cavities were already insulated by the builder. Good advice, even if it's from "that guy".
Wow thank you so much for this video
Why not use Roxul for the fireblock? It's essentially fireproof and others on UA-cam seem to use that instead. More flexible, adds insulation and less labor. Thoughts?
I believe you can use Roxul everywhere if you want. I thought the way I did mine was more permanent and I'm not sure I could've gotten away locally with my township by using Roxul everywhere. Definitely worth asking your local building inspector though if you're considering it as their word is gospel on the matter.
I know this video is two years old, but I thought I’d reach out to you anyway. I have a wrapped basement in which my framing is in front of the insulation, do I still need to do vertical fireblocking every 10feet against the insulation?
My framers did not do that, but I see a lot of videos where it is, but they are all against concrete, not wrapped insulation.
So, ultimately, this question needs to be answered by your local building inspector as they're the ones that will either require it or not. My assumption is it would be required. In that case, you would need to cut grooves into your insulation to accommodate the firestop.
Hey, great video! I live in New Jersey as well, but my township is not that helpful.. question for you.. what was the average width of the vertical fire blocking for your walls without pipes? Did you need to leave a space from the foundation wall and the framing? Thanks!
Probably around 4 or 5 inches. I didn't have much space between the foundation wall and the framing as the XPS insulation was sandwiched in there.
One of the walls I need to install fire block on has about a two in gap between the top of the concrete wall and a joist that runs parallel above it. Can I use 2x6 boards for the fire block? I would need 6 inches of depth to make it flush with 2 inch foam board insulation plus the 2x4s for the wall frame.
Gonna be honest with you. Having a hard time visualizing what you are describing. Best course of action would be to post a picture in my Facebook group (facebook.com/groups/OurHomefromScratch/) or get approval from your local building inspector.
@@OHFScratch When I click the link, it says it's not available. Here is a picture of what I am talking about. img.photobucket.com/albums/v240/nukemgt/IMG_0393_zpsojzbrlhq.jpg
Good vid , without examining the code, seems like cutting off the vertical from the horizontal is key. Once a diy can understand this concept, next they can examine the code for appropriate materials for both fireblocking and draftstopping. Both are regulated by code through out the country.
Great video series. You might cover this in another video, but did you cover your rim joist insulation with drywall or do you only have to do that if you insulate the rim joist with foamboard? I insulated my rim joists with rigid foam and believe I need to cover with drywall. Thanks in advance.
I didn't cover the rim joist insulation as the builder already had it installed. They just used batt insulation.
When you install sheet rock on the ceiling, will you nail near the fire block risking breaking or crackling the rock or nailing away from the fire blocking so as not to demage or break it? thks
The sheetrock gets installed on the ceiling first and will butt up against some of the fireblock, but there's no overlap. So, there's no risk of damaging the sheetrock if you screw or nail near the edges of the sheetrock close to the fireblock.
Did you ever do the video for horizontal fire blocking? I could really use some advise with it
email me your question: john@ourhomefromscratch.com
Could you eliminate the wood fireblock if you simply insulate each complete stud area (bottom plate to top plate) with Roxul or equivalent ??
No. A fireblock board of some kind is required. You can use roxul or fireblock foam to plug the small gaps between the fireblock board and the foundation though.
Depends. I just had my 4-way today and they are requiring me to use Roxul. No wood needed. However for the horizontal fireblock I need 1/2 OSB for that every 10'.
Do you have to fire block if using metal studs?
Yes. The purpose of fireblock is to prevent the spread of fire via a chimney effect.
Hey my brother I just sub your channel and hit the bell so I wont miss no more of your videos, I think is a awesome channel bro I love it later :)
Thanks!
Wish I knew what video it was but this guy was showing how different insulation works and one of it was a 'fire-rated expanding foam'. It didn't self-extinguish and burned quite significantly.
Yeah, I think it's just designed to help slow the spread of fire, not extinguish it, although that would be better.
Adam, the "fire-rated expanding foam", as you called it, is designed to burn the surface area and seal the penetration. The surface area burns rather rapidly and once it is burned away, the remaining foam is actually quite difficult to ignite. Seems counter-intuitive at first, but when applied correctly it does quite well what it's designed to.
I’ve watched your previous videos on this subject I note that you’ve left the old “stuffed” insulation in the sill joists. Is this deliberate & if so why?
Yes. The insulation in those joist spaces is required AND it's already there so I left it in place.
Instead of the fiberglass, could you use some cut to size foam board in those spaces? I will be finishing a basement that currently has no insulation, and would rather not use fiberglass insulation.
Is this required every where??
Check with your local government during the permit process, but generally, yes, it's required everywhere.
Great information
Thanks!
Easily seen how the fireblocking is attached to the joists that are at right angles, but not clear how the fireblocking attached when the joist runs parallel to the interlocking.
You need to add 2x4 blocking to span the space between the joists. Add a 2x4 every 16" or so. Then your fireblocking will be at right angles to the added blocking.
Hello,... you never did the Horizontal fireblocking video. Any chance you are doing it?
It's on this video: ua-cam.com/video/wxPalEAnGAA/v-deo.html
Great Video! But you may want to explain the differences between balloon, platform, timber and OVE Framing before people get themselves into trouble. Just and tip, but thanks for the video.
Will do!
I love this series of videos, on basements. However, your inspector, is supposedly worried about the fire stop. However, its interesting as for a fire strop, they want you to use cement board. But what is much more of a fire hazard is that many wires bundled together, through electromagnetic induction. However, you are in the basement, so these wires aren't being used there isn't that much heat. However, if these are wires, that are chased upstairs that is semi-dangerous. But, the bundle should be separated, and it should be run,,, up in the floor joists. Sorry, this is just humble opinion. I've been doing electrical work for 30+ years now. But otherwise a great series if videos!
“However” - you
This is horizontal fireblocking, not vertical.
This stops a fire from rising vertically, making a a vertical fire block
Who ever wired this basement did a poor job, yikes!
Well it was wired without the intent of having it finished. The house was recently completely rewired this past summer after the tornado. Much cleaner this time around.