Veramoss // Evernyl: One of perfumery's most used base notes
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- Опубліковано 2 жов 2024
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Videos mentioned in this video:
How to make dilutions: • How to make dilutions ...
Podcast with Sarah McCartney: • Make a rock pool accor...
Book referenced for some of the information in this video:\
Scent & Chemistry (USA: amzn.to/3whcTf9), (UK: amzn.to/3dOUcJ9)
Moss image taken from: en.wikipedia.o...
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The name Evernyl actually derives from the genus Evernia, to which oakmoss (E. prunastri, with treemoss being Pseudevernia furfuracea) belongs. 🙂
That makes a lot of sense, thank you for the great insight, I didn’t know that!
another quality content! I always love when you cover one material and make a whole video about it. can you do Safranal next? I always love Safranal
I’ve been meaning to get me hands on safranal! Currently I only have safraleine
This channel is slowly but surely becoming my favourite go-to material for perfumery content. Keep it up, cause with this quality, order, structure, and discipline, it will only become bigger and better. Great format btw.
Thank you, I’m glad you appreciate my work. I’d be interested to hear what other perfumery content you enjoy
Wow! Perfect timing. I was just thinking about buying veramoss but i wasn't sure before watching the video :)
Fantastic
I have a small glass bottle of 'oakmoss oil' that I bought in a head (hippie) shop probably in the early 1970s. It may well be the real thing, oakmoss, before it was banned. The oil is long gone but the bottle! It still smells glorious - a deep dark forest with bands of sunlight peeking through and hitting the forest floor, warming the earth.
Nothing will come close to the real thing
Amazing video mate, didn't realise this note was so useful! Absolutely need to get it 😩
Indeed a versatile and wonderful material, I admit I often "forget" about it, but does wonders, specially giving that sweet powdery effect that I actually love. I also find it helps to smooth things up a bit. I will try doing a blend of labdanum and veramoss to see the effect, thank you for the tip and video :)
Yeah I sometimes forget about it too
I love this style of video focusing on one material :)
Noted :)
Greetings Sam. Hope you're well: Evernyl comes from the botanical or scientific name of oakmoss, which is Evernia Prunastri. There is also used more lately the tree moss, belonging to the subspecies Evernia Furfuracea. It is an ingredient which lately has been used more likely for its fixative capabilities but the men's perfumery from the 1970's and 80's used oakmoss very heavily on its construction. I can name a dozen fragrances that contain a ridiculous amount of it. Paco Rabanne Pour Homme, Polo Green, Drakkar Noir, Givenchy Gentleman, Chanel Antaeus, Ted Lapidus Pour Homme from 1978, Lacoste Original, Oscar De La Renta Pour Lui, Gucci Pour Homme from the 70's, Enrico Coveri Pour Homme, and such.
Definitely more videos like this one👌
Thank you. Still waiting for android ver of Formulair app
Mr. Macer, thanks for the video. I have a question. I bought veramoss and diluted to %10 in ethanol. It seems totally dissolved. When i test it on my skin, it solidifies as white powder after alcohol evaporises. I believe it may be harmful to sniff it. Is it normal? Thanks in advance.
Calone + evernyl. I would never have guessed it. But it works! For a delicate candy note, pair evernyl with a trace of blue cypress.
Bought some veramoss and compared it with oakmoss EO. It's pretty different! I'm not sure how significant veramoss is compared to the other components of oakmoss EO.
I really love Evernyl! And it smalls so different in my creations. For me it also has a similar smell/vibe like Cashmeran.
I can see that to a small degree
Labdanum…..one of my favourites as well.
Great vid Sam! Neat about that rock pool accord. Great to see the GCMS printout of BR540 too. 😄 That much hedione eh?
Yeah! Thanks :)
This type of series is really nice. Thanks for the information, I am thinking about some experiments with Evernyl in future.
Thank you, good luck with your experiments :)
Fun fact: when I first bought evernil I was kinda disappointed that it doesn't smell like real moss, and literally all my friends agreed that it doesn't.
But we all agreed that it smells like realistic hay (unlike cumarine, which smells like sweet perfumery type of hey) and also a little bit like grapefruit, which is the thing that Sam described as fuzzy. I feel like this description gives you better understanding of what you should expect from evernyl
Any leads on android version of your app?
Hey sam how to reach out to you to get some more knowledge on dilution or can you tell me how much to dilute veramoss in alcohol or dpg
Watch my videos on dilutions
Thank you! Yes for me its the most longlasting Ingredient its so long lasting for days even on skin and after bath. Amazing. I think if I put in every batch what I made some drops in side for fixing all stuff together more. Alot of my perfumes what i made are not longer lasting than 2 hrs even with strong bases like labdanum and javanol. Its so demotivating
Would be interesting to try out different accords with evernyl and oakmoss absolute and see how they differ. Also, chypre accord video coming up?
I assume It's been used in tons of men's deodorants and shower gels, and in huge amounts. Because my first impression was "this smells like a gym locker room".
Sam your channel is just phenomenal. And very very informative well put over, i got the labdanum you sell and it is brilliant, as you said about otgers having off notes really not till you get great product do you notice it as much.
I prefer oak moss, veramoss has a metallic, fluffy, earthy odor and is a bomb, if the mixture is not well done it can ruin the fragrance
Yes it can be tricky to use
I wish I saw this video before I did my other for my perfume oil. But next order I'm getting Veramoss.
Thank you for this! I am not a perfumer, just a perfume lover and I have loved chypre's my whole life but became allergic to oakmoss about 10 years ago. My reactions were so uncomfortable that I have been reluctant to try anything that mentions moss of any kind in perfumes, just in case. Learning about this I think now I can do small experiments with modern chypre's to see if I have skin issues with them. I would love to be able to wear something with this mossy accord again.
Good luck with your experiments, I’m sure you’ll be able to make something you like. You could combine it with pine or cypress absolute to get even closer to the natural oak moss.
Thank you so much, that's very helpful!
Sam, love your videos! Please make one on muguet/lily of the valley materials. Thank you!
Again, wonderful research & insight 🙏🏽
I live in New York how I can get good ingredients
Try Perfumer’s Apprentice
Sam I’m confused with robert oakmoss and what dilution it can be used at …. And what’s the percentage of the finished perfume ??
Another excellent segment,, Sam. Just ordered some from Perfumer's Apprentice and I'm looking forward to playing with it.
Keep these coming! I'm learning an awful lot from you. Cheers!
I’m glad you’re learning!
Hey sam,
Quick question. Idk if youve ever smelled eight & bob egypt or not but theres a generic deep sweet powdery note in the base.
I pick it up in alot of perfumes, any idea what it could be??
I have not smelled it unfortunately!
Interestingly I cannot smell Methyl Atrarate almost at all - I keep a blotter in my room and smell it almost every day, and after two months I can get a few gentle sniffs at a time and then its gone - which is still a huge progress since at the beginning I couldn't smell anything and wondered if the supplier sold me some scammy material. In compositions, nothing, though I guess I get the fixative effect at least.
It is subtle! You may be predisposed to perceiving it less strongly too. I think it’s effect in blends is often more noticeable than alone so try that too!
Do you find that oakmoss absolute smells like the perfumery note? I always thought it was a fantasy note!
I find it fantasy like too
What dosing changes do I need to make if I want to replace oakmoss absolute with Veramoss?
If I remember correctly, oakmoss is 65% Veramoss, so you could try 2/3 as much
Thanks for the Video Sam keep it up! Where did you get the B40 formula from ?
An Instagram account called @fragrance.drama
Does anyone know if this is the prominent “Oakmoss” note in “Hacivat” by Nishane?
Yes and no, i believe mr. Lee uses evernyl (givaudans equilvelent to veramoss) and a natural/synthetic oakmoss blend in a personal oakmoss accord in hacivat.
Definitely would love to see more videos 🙏
I love veramoss, can you do a episode on Kaphalis? Thank you for the content!
Potentially, Kephalis is a lovey one
Good info Sam, thankyou
Thank you for your video, I highly appreciate it. Could you please share with us the methods that you use for testing your fragrance before you launch it?
Thank you! I like to test it on my skin and see what both myself and other people think.
@@sammacer Thank you for your response. I do test on my skin and apparel, because fragrance usually preforms differently on different surfaces. Also I ask my friends to wear them while they are around to see how they really preform, because in many cases I can’t smell it on my skin after 15 minutes meanwhile people say that they can smell me from 10 meters. And finally I leave a blotter dipped in my fragrance in a separate room and visit that room after 10-20 minutes. If you have some more specific suggestions like this I would highly appreciate it.
Hi Sam do you any idea how to create a perfume booster?
Not too sure what you mean
Love it!! Thank you so much Sam
Thank you!