How to actually MAKE PERFUME
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- Опубліковано 22 чер 2024
- My perfumery course: www.perfumerystudent.com/
Shop perfumery supplies: thefragrancefoundry.com/
Download my perfumery app for free: formulair.app/
My perfume brand: zur.ai/
Links mentioned in the video:
Perfumer's world video (Guaiacol): • Review of Perfumers Wo...
Mexican vanilla accord: • How to make Mexican Va...
Grojsman accord: • How to make a Grojsman...
Formulair website import CSV guide: formulair.app/user-guide-adva...
Timestamps:
00:00 - Introduction
01:16 - Writing the formula idea
19:04 - Finding and making the dilutions
27:13 - Making the perfume formula
35:59 - Evaluating the formula
42:25 - Formulair update: Import CSV
Join our community of perfume makers on discord to share tips on perfume making: / discord
Listen to the video as a podcast: anchor.fm/sam-macer
Instagram accounts:
@sam.macer - / sam.macer
@zurai.official - / zurai.official
@thefragrancefoundry - / thefragrancefoundry
Starting your own perfume brand? I host my online store with Shopify: shopify.pxf.io/jryWdn
Excellent video Sam!!!! Thank you for the step by step instructions. As a complete beginner I really appreciate it!
Glad it was helpful since I wondered if I was just rambling
great video Sam, Glad to see the import CSV is available now
Thanks. Let me know how it goes :)
Oh Sam, I purchased your Formulair app last night-it’s both wonderful and genius!
I’ve been happily entering details for the 1ml samples that I purchased, all of which (I hope) will help me understand each of the scents I love! (As you recommended, I have promised myself to dilute them before smelling, so I don’t spoil the experience.)
Thank you to the moon for envisioning and developing this brilliant tool!!! It’s amazing. I was so happy to purchase from you. 🙏🏼🙏🏼🙏🏼❤️
Thank you for purchasing, I’m really glad that it’s helping you! Good to hear you’re making your dilutions too :)
A very enriching tutorial, thank You!!
I was made aware of your channel by another fragrance reviewer. I've only started on the Men's Fragrance adventure when I used a fake fragrance. I haven't got the monies for the genuine fragrances.
I watched a fragrance reviewer earlier today, they mentioned your brand.
Searched and subscribed. I am very impressed with your work🙏
Thank you 🙏
Thank you sir. Wonderful instructional video. Cheers
Watching this as I am trying my perfume I made with essential oils and perfumers alcohol that doesn't last lol. I still have a lot to learn but I found this video to be very helpful and I'm always learning more. Thanks Sam!
Thank you!
You know I’ve been also mixing essential oils. Is this wrong? Are we meant to dilute the essential oil or use something else? I am confused as hell clearly lol
@@NeziNez Essential oils are fine but you may wish to buy some synthetic raw materials to go along with them. Check this video: ua-cam.com/video/dhaizDgS0Y4/v-deo.html
I went the essential oil route also and nothing I have created so far has smelled remotely like a perfume finished product and the first time I just used the oil and perfume alcohol it was too thick for the atomizer 🤣 it also does not project at all! One of them smells ok I think I need some chemicals some more knowledge and some more practice 🤣 guess I’m not gonna make the next Sauvage in my living room anytime soon 😢
That was great, thanks Sam
My pleasure!
GREAT VIDEO SAM, GREETINGS FROM GUADALAJARA, MEXICO.
Thanks! Say hi to Checo Perez for me :)
Love to see how it all comes together. I feel like ive been granted an apprenticeship.
Love your videos mate helps out a lot :) What scale are you using though?
Thank you! It's a Kern EMB-200-3
Hey Sam! Just wanted to thank you for such informational videos. I learned a lot from you and I definitely credit you for getting me started with fragrance creation.
I had a question or two, advice really, that would help me a lot if you could and would answer. To give you so context, I'm attempting a gourmand fragrance inspired by Black Forest cake (Chocolate and Cherry). I'm attempting a Chocolate accord mainly compromised of Cocoa essence, 5-Methyl-2-Phenyl-2-Hexenal and some Eugenol mixed in there. I do have a bit of vanillin mixed into the base as I am trying to pair an amber accord into the base.
What I'm really wondering is if you could see some sort of woody, pine needle scent combining nicely to this all. I know it's a very theoretical and vague question, but your opinion would greatly matter!
Thank you so much :)
Hi Andrei! I'm glad you're getting on well with your perfumery. Your project sounds great. To answer your question, I couldn't give precise advice like that on such a specific combination since there are infinite possible combinations in perfumery. The beauty of it is that you can try it yourself and be the first to find out! Try it, see what happens and go from there... I hope this helps :)
Thanks Sam! 😁
Any time!
Top video! I'm really keen on starting perfume making. A bit afraid of the initial cost and the time investment since I already have hobbies that cost both time and money. Do you do anything with the iterations (fails) or just keep them for future reference?
I usually just chuck them out but occasionally I keep something for future reference
I'm really enjoying the videos. Whats the name of the app your using to do your formula ?
Thank you. It’s called Formulair: www.formulair.app
Wow. What a great video. I want to make my first one with peony and rose but i dont know what ingredients go well. It is all a bit overwhelming but I am interested. I suppose i would have to start by buying a bunch of raw materials and trial and error. After I binge on your videos.
Great vid. Keep up the good work. What's the app you're using called and where can I get it?
Thank you! It’s called Formulair and you can get it at formulair.app
@@sammacer thanks. I see you did the app. Nice work
Thank you sir
Thank you 🙏🏼
thanks dude
No problem at all
Excellent tutorial. However, I find the maths totally baffling... is there a video that walks someone through very slowly perhaps with a pen and paper?
Same
Same
Would love something like this
Hey, you are amazing. i love your channel. i'm about to start making perfumes as a hobby an your videos are great. could you please explain something, because im not sure i understand. For example in this video, you hare already diluted materials. when you have the final mix, do you have the final perfume because of the alcohol used for the diluted materials, or you have to add for example if the mix is 1 gram, to add 6-7 grams more alcohol to this. Sorry if the question is stupid. Regards.
Thank you so much! And no, there’s no need to add extra alcohol since they’re already diluted down to perfume strength
Thank you soo very much for this video. I have a question. Do you only use the solvent alcohol to dilute the oil and not to make perfume?
What do you mean?
I really appreciate your videos. Especially because you are wonderful at explaining the different stages on the way to a perfume. And these are extremely helpful for people like me who just started 1 year ago. But there is one question I haven't found an answer to yet: I also diluted my materials - sometimes 10%, sometimes 20%, few in 1%. But when you create your final version later, do you still work with diluted materials? Or do you use the original materials? Or it depends?
Thank you! And no, when I make a large production batch I rewrite the formula in terms of pure raw materials to make a concentrate and then add the alcohol at the end.
@@sammacer Thanx for the explanation regarding your steps. It definitely makes sense and helps me too. 👃
@@sammacer Ooooh, So you don't use your dilutions to make the actual perfumes ? I was wondering how you get an eau de parfum while using 1% or 10% diluted essences (which I guess would technically make eau de toilettes). So, dilutions for testing, pur material for bigger batches of finish products then ?
@@TitemaudYep, it would seem so. Rewriting the formula to account for pure material allows the maker to control the overall ratio of oils to alcohol.
I'm curious about how much carrier oil he might use, if any, and why/when that's appropriate or not.
@@Titemaud Im looking to get this answered also lol.
Wonderful information! Literally at square 1 with learning. Let's say you where 100% happy with your formula, & next wanted to bottle it in a spray like 15ml or something. . .do you fill final bottle with perfumers alch and add % from that made formula?
Thanks! You would make your formula to 15% by weight in a beaker to 15g and then pour it into your spray bottle
@@sammacercan you make a video about this?Im not quite sure I understand what’s the process after you’ve made formula of 1g, how do you then make it into let’s say 50ml perfume? Please make a video about this
@@sammacerseems lot of people asked something similar in comments.. for example how would we make eau de parfume (20%) with predilutions of 10% and 1% in a formula of 1g?And how to make it into 50ml or 100ml with the 1g formula? Please please make a complete video on this topic
Quick question, at the end... How much notes do you use in your fragrance? Thanks
Hi sir. After mixing, how long should wait for it to maceration to be bottle in perfume?
Well for the Bottles, i am using Apothecary Bottles in 10ml, the advantage of them in my opinion is, that they come with an integrated pipette, so you massivley lower your plastic waste as well
However the problem unfortunately is the raw materials escape through the rubber after some months
Thanks 👍 sam
No problem 👍
Amazing video Sam. Will there be an Android version of Formulair? Or does anyone else know of one?
Thank y very much for all your vedio
But i ask y if i have
Argeol/santal/labdanuum resinoid/styrax resionid/patchouli/cedrol/cedryl acetate / vanillin /guaiac wwod /
Can i do mak oud fragrance
Any material i have will can ues it please
Thank y very much
thanks for this video, very educational. where can I buy the SM grojsman accord? I live in the Netherlands but I can't find it here!
Haha no need to buy it - you can get the formula for free in my video on the Grojsman accord (link in the description)
@@sammacer Oh really, that's great thank you!!
So question, Lets say an accord is added that has hedione in it. Then, I later add more hedione to the mix separately. When it comes to IFRA standards, how will that math be done? Do I break down the accord's hedione percentage and add that to the separate hedione percentage as well?
Spot on - that's exactly what you need to do :)
Well luckily, hedione is completely unrestricted so you can use as much of it as you want.
Hey where can I get the wood to put the bottles in that I see you have here?
Nice see video sir, I am also Keen to know about perfumery & chemicals.👍
Thank you!
Btw, I heard some ratios for the filling between essential oils and alcohols to about 20% (essential oil) and 80% (alcohol), what's the ratio that was used on this type of formula? Another question, is the oil needed in this formula or not? Thank you.
Link Ratio of Essential oils and Alcohols that i have watched earlier:
- ua-cam.com/video/t7_BQEMs3GA/v-deo.html
Depends on the essential oil. You gotta check IFRA safety
11:37 Is there any merit in using a micropipette? I bought one for this exact reason but I haven't used it yet and I wonder based on your practice, whether or not it's overkill.
I think it's overkill to be honest since you want to be measuring by weight and not volume. No problem using it if it helps though!
@@sammacer I meant: use regular pipettes until the required weight is almost reached and then use a micropipette after that to reach the target weight with much smaller weight increments but I'm guessing that your answer would be the same.
@@zalzalahbuttsaab Ahh I see - right, that makes a lot of sense. I think it's a good idea if it works. I think it may get a little tedious though.
@Chris Baines getting that anal it quite ridiculous really. Size up your batches if you have trouble hitting weights. Sometimes I have to double in the middle of formulating because I decided I need a tiny hint of something powerful.
Hi Sam thaks for great video ..would you help me understand this.. correct me if i'm wrong. After I found my best scent at 1g..then on Formulair Apps i duplicate my formula to scale up let say 20g...at my last product should add solvent? What is my next step?
Just add a raw material entry which is a solvent and then put in the amount you want
@@sammacer Appreciate it..thank you so much.
do you use pure essential oils or synthetic ones?
Awesome video. Would love to see something like this, more of a free-form, unscripted video. Only suggestion I'd have is maybe a few more iterations, instead of just 1. I think perhaps 3 iterations would be awesome! :)
Maybe just for fun. Doesn't need massive editing. Just some fun, random ideas. White florals + Smoke + Citrus? Why not. Ambergris + Spices + Green notes? Sure.
Thank you. In fact, this video was inspired by your comment last time and there was no planning before this video, it was completely unscripted. I had to do a few cuts because it's impossible to speak for 40 minutes straight without making mistakes. Haha - if I did more iterations it would be like 2 hours long.
@@sammacer Yeah. I do appreciate the video, man. It was awesome. I just kinda felt like it was a bit of a tease because you mentioned how that formula could've been improved, but then you didn't. I guess I got used to your other videos (because in the other videos, you do a few iterations) - kinda felt like a teaser, but making me want to watch more of your content isn't a bad thing. Though I did love this kind of format. Very refreshing. :)
@@JayMannStuff Yeah sorry I couldn't add that in. I mentioned what I would try at the end, I think different levels of rose base for example. Yeah I guess the problem is that I try to dedicate a full day for each video but I don't really have more time than that. I have to set up the camera and mic, download the footage, edit it, upload it, create the thumbnail etc too :)
@@sammacer Got it. All good. I still loved this style of video, though.
Since you've gone over your creative process, you could skip a lot of the filming and editing if you continued this series. No need to film making dilutions, explaining the process. Just explain the general idea, show the recipe idea, then mix the materials. Also, much less editing. Plus, you could always make a part 2 to any videos you felt like. :)
@@JayMannStuff Noted, thanks for the encouragement!
Please what is the name of the app you are making use of? The app you are using to calculate the items.
Formulair
Question. What is the best scale for perfumery? Also outside of a calculated and controlled trial and error process is there any other directions I can take to effeciently make perfume ?
I don’t know if there’s a best but I use the kern emb 200-3. As far as I’m aware there’s no way to truly avoid trial and error in perfumery.
@Sam Macer Thanks! Appreciate the feedback. I didn't think there was, just trying to make best use of time in the creative process. If there are any other points of interests that you can share regarding most efficient way to navigate the process of creating perfume, please let me know. Thanks again.
I think I followed along and got most of it. I don't have pre diluted oils so it was insightful seen the calculations.
I have one question though. You seemed to add all the oils but no perfumer's alcohol. The only perfumer's alcohol used were for the pre dilutions. Is adding alcohol not required for the testing purpose? Also, when almost 80% alcohol would be added in the final product, wouldn't that smell more diluted?
Or did I get the entire video wrong?
Since I used 10% predilutions, the final product is a 20% EdT, no more alcohol needs to be added. If you wanted to end up at 20% you would need to use stronger dilutions or make it pure and then add alcohol at the end
@@sammacer Ah, right right!
I completely forgot to take that into account.
@@danlightened He meant to say since he used 10% predilutions, the final product is a 10% EdT.
WOW! So informative, and so much Maths in it, not just artistry ;)
I would liken it to something like sculpting; initially it’s a technical challenge, since you’re focusing on how to use a chisel. But once the tools become second nature, then you can be creative. In the same way, once the maths becomes second nature, then what’s left is the creative side.
Hey sam, what is the app/tool u are using?:)
It’s called Formulair: www.formulair.app :)
Can you make a video on some of the math/formula behind incorporating accord formulas as single materials? Like the Grosjman accord that you included. You put it as a single item, but it has its own formula for making it.
So do you make a certain batch size of the G Accord (let's say 10g) and then divy out a few grams to the secondary perfume you're using it in?
Check out my hour long Formulair tutorial, that explains how I do it
@@sammacer thanks!
I make soap and I’m surprised at how similar the process is for formulating my fragrance blends. I do a rough sketch of the concept with percentages for each fragrance, then I combine the materials with strips or toothpicks, and then I make a small batch to see how it behaves in the soap. The only thing missing is the dilutions with alcohol and the perfume formula software. I was really intimidated by the idea of making perfumes, it seemed like a big jump, but surprise-I was already half the way there! You’ve made it so much more comprehensible to me. Thank you!
Fantastic! In fact making small batches in the soap is far better than using alcohol, since alcohol is to perfume what soap base is to perfumed soap. Sounds like you’re very much on the right track. I would recommend testing all of your raw materials at 5% in soap alone and using them as reference bars. Note you can also use the Formulair software for soap by simply changing the name “alcohol” to “soap base” 😀
@@sammacer that’s quite brilliant. I have a few soap blends that I suspect might make nice perfumes. Awesome. I downloaded the app, I’ll start playing around in there. So glad I found your channel, I’m learning so much!
@@elysiansoapshop Awesome! Let me know how it goes. I'm glad you're learning a lot from the channel.
Just a quick note, the price of Formulair will be increasing next week in case you end up thinking about buying it!
@@sammacer Thanks. I bought the full version, so far so good. I just diluted all my materials, entered them into the app and made my first EDT, a vanilla, bergamot, cedar fragrance. I have soap customers asking for aftershave and splashes...so here I am, learning on the fly. I'll keep you posted. Cheers!
@@elysiansoapshopHey, your testimony is the first that comes up on their site!
That was a cool discovery!
One thing i keep seeing , perfumers alcohol is less dense than water so you can not rate it a gram per gram like water is , ethanol is 0.789 g/mL, i think it's quite easily to missjudge the end concentration, i found out this when doing my dilutions as i do them in dropper bottles at a standard 10 ml
Which app did u use while making the rough sketch
Formulair - www.formulair.app
Hey, nice video. Off topic question, why do you have a Slovenian flag in the background? I'm slovenian so I was wondering
I’ve been on Holiday to Slovenia a couple of times and I loved it so I picked up a flag! I used it in the video to cover up some ugly boxes in the background 😂
@@sammacer I hope you enjoyed it, I'm very proud of Sovenian landscape and its beauty. If you by any chance visit Ljubljana in the future hit me up. Im about your age(26) and I'd love to talk perfumes.
@@martinkrasovec7155 Yeah I love it, especially the nature. Ljubljana is super chill too. Will do, thanks for the offer!
Thank you for your efforts! Is it ideal to dilute all of my pure absolutes to 10% to begin with? Tobacco absolute, lavender absolute, cistus absolute, benzoin absolute 80% in alcohol and many other absolutes, I’m confused to which percentage to dilute each one😑
I dilute all of mine to 10% to begin with but it's down to your personal preference at the end of the day
Ik it's 11 months late but if someone needs to hear it: don't dilute the entirety of your material when prediluting. Just get like 10-15ml amber Boston rounds and if you have like 4ml of a material and want it at 10%, dilute 6 grams of it or less. You don't need to dilute all 4ml of it. Keep some raw for after you figure out a formula
Bro apple flevor plise
@@RoyalGuardEziode 6 grams is more than 4ml
@@ModernBladesmith not when it's diluted as I was saying, lol. 10% dilution at 6g would only take 0.6g from the 4ml of raw material
Hi Sam, I downloaded your formula software, do I have to buy it for it to work
Nope, you can start using it for free! You only need to pay if you go over the limit of 25 formulas or raw materials.
Please note that there is a planned price increase foe the app next week in case you are considering to purchase it.
Thank you for this app, it helped me
@@loveamber7285 I'm glad!
When you are evaluating the formula why don’t you add the perfumers alchol to it and then test it ?
Assalam o alikum
Sir can you please recommend me good dilutent except alcohol please ?
Some people use DPG
Hi Sam, I have a question. If you're using your ingredients diluted with alcohol, why use alcohol again in the formula? I did not understand that. Thank you for everything.
Yeah, so the reason is to make it more dilute! I like to formulate using the percentages (right column) and sometimes you need to change the amount of extra alcohol to keep the percentages constant
Does this mean that diluting the oils makes me know how to choose the concentration of my fragrance and the percentage of alcohol?
@@loveamber7285 I'm not quite sure what you mean. As long as you can do the maths, it doesn't matter if the alcohol comes from predilutions or on its own, as long as the percentages are how you wish them to be at the end.
@@sammacer thank you sam
what program is that u r using own your tablet?
Formulair, it can be found at www.formulair.app
Thanks I will get it @@sammacer
Exactly what counts as perfumers alcohol and what strength do you use for a wide variety of materials?
There is a product marketed as "Perfumer's alcohol" sold by "Mistral" in the UK. Cosmetic grade ethanol is even better. I wouldn't use anything else.
I use 10% to begin with for all materials and then 1% if they're strong.
@@sammacer is 200 proof food grade ethanol adequate?
@@EbonyKnight1985 I believe so but be sure to do your own research
whats the app, is there a substitution for android
Formulair, and no, it’s Apple only
How come perfumers alchol on 0,500 grams is 50 % but the grojman on 0,500 g is only 5 % ?
Because of density - A typical undiluted Grojman accord is almost twice the density of perfumer's alcohol - ~0.79g/mL vs ~1.10g/mL, and then he's also diluting the Grojman accord down to 10% with perfumer's alcohol, so that 0.500g of 10% Grojman accord is made up of 0.050g of the accord and 0.450g of perfumer's alcohol.
Formulair won't download on iPhone in canada
What version of iOS have you got?
Niceeee
if you don't want to invest into lab scale immediatly could 't you just dillute the materials more so the weight wouldn't need to be that precise?
No, but you could use a less accurate scale and make larger trials
@@sammacer ok thanks
and when it comes to less accurate scales do you think the safer bet would be a 0.01 scale or a cheap 0.001 pocket scale?
are there any tips to determine the accuracy of a scale?
do you think i should still make larger trials anyways since the 0.001 scale might not be accurate? and would it make a difference then?
sorry for all these question would i would be glad to get your input :)
❤️❤️
The U.S. Apple/Mac store version is still showing 1.31 as the latest version available. Not sure if you have to upload it to more than one location
Sometimes it can take a little while to go through - can you download it now?
@@sammacer -Not yet, but I'm excited that you have this option available. I was manually entering about 750 aroma notes and soon I'll be able to grab my Xcel workbook and do the rest in one go!
@@stevenlemke5843 Strange it's not up yet for you since some people are already updating. Have you tried restarting your computer?
@@sammacer I rebooted both my iPhone and iPad both are still showing 1.3.1 as the last version change and 1.4 is not showing as an option to download. The maddening thing is I can see the 1.4 version available if I follow the links to the Mac store on my Windows-based PC.
@@stevenlemke5843 Ahh - that's the issue then. Currently this is only available for MacOS users as I didn't have time to get it working on iOS yet (working with files is different on iOS). Hopefully I will find the time to work on that this weekend. Sorry about the confusion and frustration!
Wait, are you from Slovenia?
Nah but I've been a couple of times and I really like it which is why I got the flag!
Please make the android app🥺 thank you
is there an android version of the app ?
Sadly not at this time
Hey, i've been watching your videos for some time now and im actually from Slovenia so i really wanna know whats that Slovenian flag doing in the background😅
Haha I went a couple of times and I love the nature in Slovenia
I love your videos but you need to make the app available for Android I wanna get into actually making fragrances but your app doesn't download to Androids
Thank you. I'm working to make that happen in 2024
Nice man I look forward to more videos also you've inspired me to make luxury fragrances myself and I appreciate that
how long until the raw materials expire?
It’s on a case by case basis, there’s no public resource with this information that I know of
Thanks@@sammacer
how to make a praline note ?
Not too sure! But I imagine nutty and caramel raw materials. They aren’t so common to find but you can find them!
Hi Sam, great video. I dont have any of the apple products. Could you please create this program for Samsung? And let us know when it will be available. Thank you :)
I’m trying to find a solution but it’s quite complicated
Si slovenec? Sam bi tudi začel delat parfume
37:50 I said "It's the rose" straight away when you said "soap". I absolutely hate rose.
Haha
Oh no the app isn't available on Android or windows 😢 would've bought it lol
It should be available for windows late this year
@@sammacer ohhh I'm so so glad to hear that! Well, I will definitely be one of the first ones to get it 😁
Can I buy perfume ingredients of your in India
Unfortunately not
Or from any other country
Sam or can anyone Suggest in GCMS, lab testing can we find chemicals of OUD attar?
Why no clones are available for oud attars in Market.
but arent you supposed to have 80 or 90% alcaohol
I thought that perfumers world sell low quality ingredients?
I did a recent video review on them and I found no problems with the quality
@@sammacer I once actually found decent, high quality and non-diluted EOs on Amazon. It never hurts to test a supplier in my opinion.
@@ironlion45 Agreed! I stick to a few I already trust to minimise dissapointments.
bro i lost you, your lost your self
Can't wait u til you're sit at the Dr and they're using those terms to diagnose you and decide what to send yo dispensary.
That's a messed up situation to wish upon someone. If you don't like his manner of teaching, providing FREE and incredibly informative information, just move along without the hatred.
Maybe...and "I think..essentually"
Are NOT helpful.
List of materials would be beneficial
Rather than
"I'M THINKING" repeated
I can't use your thoughts