Hi Alan, I have a very similar chinese boring head. Works great, but those brazed tip tools leave a lot to be desired. Get yourself a set of replaceable tip ones. Much better finish for the bottom surface.
Nobody wants a mill table that looks like a dart board so I can see where you're coming from. However if your aim is to make a precision bore, then it might be an idea to bolt the piece to the table via a sacrificial piece of metal or parallels and eliminate the flexible plywood interface. It will reduce chatter and make a more circular hole. With tooling, you generally get what you've paid for, so with that in mind, throw those bars away and buy some from APT. Before you use the bars, the face (cutting edge) needs aligning with the the direction of the slide to prevent rubbing. Thank you for taking the time to make a video in the first place Alan.
Gday Alan, nice looking boring head and did a good job apart from the bottom, did you check the run out of the arbor at all, it would be interesting to see how true it is running, thank for sharing, ATB Matty🇦🇺
Hi I can only think of two ways to do that. Leave the tool at full depth touching the bore diameter lock the spindle and move the tool towards the centre taking a cut each time or replace the tool with a flat bottom tool that covers the full face and then take a cut.
Hi check out Warco and Chester machines as they sell the same machine but with different features. The Warco machine has power down feed.The machine is noisier than a belt driven machine as the gearbox is at head level . But no problems with it to date.
Try using those tools in the horizontal hole and you will find they are back to front. You either have to bore from the bottom upward or put the tool right way up and run the machine in reverse which will unscrew the head off the arbor. Any ideas for sorting this problem ? Chris Tasmania
Hi Chris Good point the only way I can think you could get around it is to make a steel bar 12mm od with a small hole in it which can hold a HSS tool ground to a vee on the end. A small grub screw could hold the tool tip in the bar and the original grub screw holds the bar in the boring head
@@enotsengineering Buy what's called a round shank left hand boring bar for that cross hole. Since my Criterion has imperial dimensions I just ordered the 1/2" shank cross hole boring bar they make for my head. It takes replaceable inserts. If? your mill will get down to a slow enough rpm, bores of up to 6" or a bit more can be done. While the threaded connection between the shank and the head works just fine, I still prefer the much better design Narex uses on there straight and B & F heads. The shanks bolt to the heads using 4 fairly heavy allen head cap screws. That way the heads can be run in either direction with no chance of the head unscrewing from the shank.
Hi Martin it There are a lot of variants like type of machine, size of bore the material and amount you have to remove. Start. with 0.2mm and reduce it to 0.025mm or less as you get to the required size.
Good Lord why do people go so fast with the boring head?? Arent boring bars used for presicion and arent you supossed to slow down the spindle speed for more precise work just giving my two cents here
Hi I've never used a boring head until this job. I set my speed at 600rpm for the 12mm hole I started with. I thought if this was my lathe I would run in at 600 for 12mm hole. As I increased the hole size and used my traverse to feed in the surface finish was good. If it was cutting steel it would be slower.
Good video as usual Alan, was this on a manual feed or power feed? I have the WM14 which is manual only and I'm curious how well manual feed does when using a boring head.
the cutting tools are worthless because they are NOT milled for indexing. believe me, use it once , it will make a burr on the shaft and you cant get it out. also, with the index float, you probly didnt get it set right anyway. been there done that.
Hi each tool costs about $2 each you could mill or file a flat on the diameter for the grub screw to locate on or use a 12mm boring bar with insert tips.
Why go through the charade of pretending to unwrap the package that has clearly been opened and inspected? It's unnecessary. Just do the review. If you feel like you need to show the unboxing, film it.
Hi Alan, I have a very similar chinese boring head. Works great, but those brazed tip tools leave a lot to be desired. Get yourself a set of replaceable tip ones. Much better finish for the bottom surface.
Nobody wants a mill table that looks like a dart board so I can see where you're coming from. However if your aim is to make a precision bore, then it might be an idea to bolt the piece to the table via a sacrificial piece of metal or parallels and eliminate the flexible plywood interface. It will reduce chatter and make a more circular hole. With tooling, you generally get what you've paid for, so with that in mind, throw those bars away and buy some from APT. Before you use the bars, the face (cutting edge) needs aligning with the the direction of the slide to prevent rubbing.
Thank you for taking the time to make a video in the first place Alan.
Like the new intro Alan !
Gday Alan, nice looking boring head and did a good job apart from the bottom, did you check the run out of the arbor at all, it would be interesting to see how true it is running, thank for sharing, ATB Matty🇦🇺
Hi Matty. I did check the run out it was 0.0014" at the edge of the thread
Nice Video Alan Very useful
Cool work sir 👍👏
Very interesting video. Thank you for the product revirw.
Very nice review sir, what speed was your mill turning at ?
So what would be the best way to get the bottom of the recess nice and tidy?
Hi I can only think of two ways to do that. Leave the tool at full depth touching the bore diameter lock the spindle and move the tool towards the centre taking a cut each time or replace the tool with a flat bottom tool that covers the full face and then take a cut.
How are you finding the Warco.. I'm thinking of getting one but i would like the wmd45a mill that Amadeal do.
Hi check out Warco and Chester machines as they sell the same machine but with different features.
The Warco machine has power down feed.The machine is noisier than a belt driven machine as the gearbox is at head level . But no problems with it to date.
Try using those tools in the horizontal hole and you will find they are back to front. You either have to bore from the bottom upward or put the tool right way up and run the machine in reverse which will unscrew the head off the arbor. Any ideas for sorting this problem ? Chris Tasmania
Hi Chris Good point the only way I can think you could get around it is to make a steel bar 12mm od with a small hole in it which can hold a HSS tool ground to a vee on the end. A small grub screw could hold the tool tip in the bar and the original grub screw holds the bar in the boring head
@@enotsengineering Buy what's called a round shank left hand boring bar for that cross hole. Since my Criterion has imperial dimensions I just ordered the 1/2" shank cross hole boring bar they make for my head. It takes replaceable inserts. If? your mill will get down to a slow enough rpm, bores of up to 6" or a bit more can be done. While the threaded connection between the shank and the head works just fine, I still prefer the much better design Narex uses on there straight and B & F heads. The shanks bolt to the heads using 4 fairly heavy allen head cap screws. That way the heads can be run in either direction with no chance of the head unscrewing from the shank.
I was curious at what rpm were u running this tool at.. thanks in advance.
Hi Kevin I think it was around 600 rpm
Hello Sir,
Could you please tell me mm step increase you use each time you do the boring of the hole for the bearing?
Hi Martin it There are a lot of variants like type of machine, size of bore the material and amount you have to remove. Start. with 0.2mm and reduce it to 0.025mm or less as you get to the required size.
@@enotsengineering hello, thank you very much for the information.
Good Lord why do people go so fast with the boring head?? Arent boring bars used for presicion and arent you supossed to slow down the spindle speed for more precise work just giving my two cents here
Hi I've never used a boring head until this job. I set my speed at 600rpm for the 12mm hole I started with. I thought if this was my lathe I would run in at 600 for 12mm hole. As I increased the hole size and used my traverse to feed in the surface finish was good. If it was cutting steel it would be slower.
I thought you were going to do a review on the boring head. Did I miss something?
Hi the video is 15 min long I show it working in the milling machine
Drill machine se bor kaise Kare
Muy buena herramienta
Character In the video It's great, I like it a lot $$
Good video as usual Alan, was this on a manual feed or power feed? I have the WM14 which is manual only and I'm curious how well manual feed does when using a boring head.
Hi Wayne. I used the power feed for the boring when it reaches the stop the head returns very fast under the tension of the main spring.
VERY GOOD
No mention of RPM or or cutter angle.
Hi Roger I think the RPM was around 600 and the cutting tool had a brazed tip set 90 deg to the bore
the cutting tools are worthless because they are NOT milled for indexing. believe me, use it once , it will make a burr on the shaft and you cant get it out. also, with the index float, you probly didnt get it set right anyway. been there done that.
Hi each tool costs about $2 each you could mill or file a flat on the diameter for the grub screw to locate on or use a 12mm boring bar with insert tips.
Why go through the charade of pretending to unwrap the package that has clearly been opened and inspected? It's unnecessary. Just do the review. If you feel like you need to show the unboxing, film it.
Character In the video It's great, I like it a lot $$
Character In the video It's great, I like it a lot $$