Thank you so much man. First time doing this motor thought it would be just like any other. Man was I wrong. You were the only one I could find that showed how the cams have to sit. I use mitchell 1 and their diagrams didnt help at all. Thanks again
This is merely a harder way of reassembling it. As long as you use an anaerobic sealant, it really doesn't matter which half it's applied to. I used a small lint-free, foam roller, to apply a light coat. Next, set in place the intake & exhaust cam shafts; they should be stamped "I" & "E" respectively. The exhaust camshaft goes towards the rear. A locking camshaft tool helps, but is unnecessary. Hand insert & tighten evenly, in a clockwise pattern, all of the bolts. The spark rubber sealing rings should be added AFTER the sealant has been applied.
Bravo! A job well done. I liked the video and the tips including the threaded rod welded to the spark plugs and home made tool to register the spacing of the camshafts. Wishing the best in all your endeavors. Aloha!
+Henning Jonsson I showed this video to my mechanic and he was very impressed. He has been a mechanic for 27 years and worked on Volvo for seven years. He told me about how he struggled to reassemble these camshafts many times. He is going to try your method on the next 2.5 L 5cyl Volvo he works on. Maybe he will send you a Christmas gift or something. Great video, you should do more.
Henning Jonsson That is the best reason to do all of the maintenance. They are so damn difficult to fix. But, very solid. I keep my Volvos for 18-20 years. In California, no rust.
Hi , I have a Focus ST 2.5L Turbo (B5254T3) . I am looking for bearing clearances for Big End and Main Bearings, as well as torque specs for these bearings. Are you able to assist or direct me to where i could find these.
Great video. I am doing the same job on a C30 and am at this step. I installed the cams and cover and then had difficulty spinning the cams after. I suspect they are binding? The vvt pulleys are not installed and I was going to install them but I couldn't spin the cams. I will try your method. When you are doing it this way portrayed in the video do the cams sin freely or do the valve springs hold them tightly?
You may have a little sealant touching a cam - that happened to me. Just install all of the timing gear, belt, etc, and turning the crank by hand. Also... I do hope you use some good assembly lube. Don't just use oil (a good heavy oil or a grease would be okay, though).
ok. I'll check. Does the spring pressure make it difficult to turn once installed? I have the vvt pulleys off and no belt on and was trying to turn them. I thank you for responding. Not many people do. :-)
Yes, they can be quite difficult to turn at first. The only place I can see them binding would be with a valve impacting a piston, which would suggest you have either the cams upside down or the crank in the wrong position. There's only two teeth worth of play, so be mindful of that. And, for the love of all that is good, turn it using the crank pulley main bolt CLOCKWISE ONLY!. Don't use the starter or any power tools. You should be able to rotate the engine around TWICE. But, yes, you might have to fight to get it started.
ok thanks. It was my plan to do this. perhaps I was over reacting when reinstalling. I just replaced the head with a rebuilt one and am new to the T5. Though I have experience the cam cover design is new to me. I was surprised when the cams wouldn't turn by hand after installation. Meaning the cams don't have the have the timing belt on them yet and I can't turn them individually by hand. I have installed the cams in with the cam timing tool like you did . I suspect its the spring pressure keeping me from being able to turn them. Does that sound right? Also do you have insight on how to install the vvt pulleys? They are a different design than the one in your video unless that's some kind of cover on yours. there are no alignment keys or anything on mine to orient them. Do they simply bolt on? Seems strange since there are external timing marks to time the cams from that end. :-) You seem to have a LOT of T5 experience. :-)
It's not my video :p I've actually only done this on the non-CVVT variants, but I can help you some with the pulleys. Should be pretty straight-forward. The plastic spark plug cover has timing notches, so it needs to be installed, and the pulleys have little timing marks on them. With CVVT, those marks actually only align when the pulleys are under tension, so they're off a bit until then. So long as you have the cams installed correctly, just make sure the timing marks on the pulleys are at the top. The exhaust pulley's mark will be offset to the left a couple teeth worth of travel, but you should be able to twist the outer ring of the pulley and it should align with the timing mark on the plastic cover. I believe something like that happens on the intake pulley, but I'm not certain. Once you get that done, get the timing belt installed. With the belt installed, all marks MUST line up. If anything is off by a tooth or more, keep trying. This means that the pulleys' outer rings must be under tension. This is because the cams are designed to run at neutral timing with normal oil pressure in the event of a CVVT control servo failure. Once the belt is installed and tensioned turn the motor over by hand (using a socket on the large crank pulley bolt). You need to turn it around fully twice and recheck that everything stayed in time. The engine might fight you at first, but will turn more easily after a good half turn. This is mostly because the hydraulic lifters are tight after being drained (or when new). Once they are exercised a little, they will begin to adjust - even without oil pressure, and the engine will turn more easily.
+josh Moreno thank you for the timing on the cam shaft but i want to known the timing for the crankshaft position an which piston is on the tdc; thank you wish to hear from you soon
+Balla Diame no problem. Sorry, I'm not really understanding your question. If you want to know how to lock the crankshaft position once it is at TDC, then you don't have to do anything. It is very hard to move on it's on, so it shouldn't move unless you put a socket and ratchet on it and start turning it. But if you insist on locking it, there is a special tool in that kit i linked to in my last comment. I never used it though, so can't really tell you how it works. They call it a "crankshaft alignment tool". Don't know if it locks it or just aligns it without locking it. Does that help?
+Balla Diame Also, if you mean "how do I know when I get to TDC?" - then there are notches on the camshafts gear that should be pointing straight up. The timing cover should also have notches in it indicating where TDC is so all you have to do is turn the crankshaft (which will turn the camshafts if timing belt is on) and line up the notches on the cam gears to the notches on the timing cover.
Thank you so much man. First time doing this motor thought it would be just like any other. Man was I wrong. You were the only one I could find that showed how the cams have to sit. I use mitchell 1 and their diagrams didnt help at all. Thanks again
This is merely a harder way of reassembling it. As long as you use an anaerobic sealant, it really doesn't matter which half it's applied to. I used a small lint-free, foam roller, to apply a light coat. Next, set in place the intake & exhaust cam shafts; they should be stamped "I" & "E" respectively. The exhaust camshaft goes towards the rear. A locking camshaft tool helps, but is unnecessary. Hand insert & tighten evenly, in a clockwise pattern, all of the bolts. The spark rubber sealing rings should be added AFTER the sealant has been applied.
Bravo! A job well done. I liked the video and the tips including the threaded rod welded to the spark plugs and home made tool to register the spacing of the camshafts. Wishing the best in all your endeavors. Aloha!
thank you:)
+Henning Jonsson I showed this video to my mechanic and he was very impressed. He has been a mechanic for 27 years and worked on Volvo for seven years. He told me about how he struggled to reassemble these camshafts many times. He is going to try your method on the next 2.5 L 5cyl Volvo he works on. Maybe he will send you a Christmas gift or something. Great video, you should do more.
+John Ferguson I am glad to hear the video is helpful...these engines are a really a pain to work on:)
Henning Jonsson That is the best reason to do all of the maintenance. They are so damn difficult to fix. But, very solid. I keep my Volvos for 18-20 years. In California, no rust.
Great video show.
Great video, please let me know how about the valve leaflets.
Some really good tips. Thank you!
Mike Tunstall You are welcome, glad to help:)
Cheers!
Can you tall me me please I have a question.... how to time camshafts on volvo xc90 where is writing on the cam going on intake where is on exost cam
Hi , I have a Focus ST 2.5L Turbo (B5254T3) . I am looking for bearing clearances for Big End and Main Bearings, as well as torque specs for these bearings. Are you able to assist or direct me to where i could find these.
Good ideas there
Great video. I am doing the same job on a C30 and am at this step. I installed the cams and cover and then had difficulty spinning the cams after. I suspect they are binding? The vvt pulleys are not installed and I was going to install them but I couldn't spin the cams. I will try your method. When you are doing it this way portrayed in the video do the cams sin freely or do the valve springs hold them tightly?
You may have a little sealant touching a cam - that happened to me.
Just install all of the timing gear, belt, etc, and turning the crank by hand.
Also... I do hope you use some good assembly lube. Don't just use oil (a good heavy oil or a grease would be okay, though).
ok. I'll check. Does the spring pressure make it difficult to turn once installed? I have the vvt pulleys off and no belt on and was trying to turn them. I thank you for responding. Not many people do. :-)
Yes, they can be quite difficult to turn at first.
The only place I can see them binding would be with a valve impacting a piston, which would suggest you have either the cams upside down or the crank in the wrong position. There's only two teeth worth of play, so be mindful of that.
And, for the love of all that is good, turn it using the crank pulley main bolt CLOCKWISE ONLY!. Don't use the starter or any power tools.
You should be able to rotate the engine around TWICE. But, yes, you might have to fight to get it started.
ok thanks. It was my plan to do this. perhaps I was over reacting when reinstalling. I just replaced the head with a rebuilt one and am new to the T5. Though I have experience the cam cover design is new to me. I was surprised when the cams wouldn't turn by hand after installation. Meaning the cams don't have the have the timing belt on them yet and I can't turn them individually by hand. I have installed the cams in with the cam timing tool like you did . I suspect its the spring pressure keeping me from being able to turn them. Does that sound right?
Also do you have insight on how to install the vvt pulleys? They are a different design than the one in your video unless that's some kind of cover on yours. there are no alignment keys or anything on mine to orient them. Do they simply bolt on? Seems strange since there are external timing marks to time the cams from that end. :-)
You seem to have a LOT of T5 experience. :-)
It's not my video :p
I've actually only done this on the non-CVVT variants, but I can help you some with the pulleys. Should be pretty straight-forward.
The plastic spark plug cover has timing notches, so it needs to be installed, and the pulleys have little timing marks on them. With CVVT, those marks actually only align when the pulleys are under tension, so they're off a bit until then. So long as you have the cams installed correctly, just make sure the timing marks on the pulleys are at the top.
The exhaust pulley's mark will be offset to the left a couple teeth worth of travel, but you should be able to twist the outer ring of the pulley and it should align with the timing mark on the plastic cover.
I believe something like that happens on the intake pulley, but I'm not certain.
Once you get that done, get the timing belt installed. With the belt installed, all marks MUST line up. If anything is off by a tooth or more, keep trying. This means that the pulleys' outer rings must be under tension. This is because the cams are designed to run at neutral timing with normal oil pressure in the event of a CVVT control servo failure.
Once the belt is installed and tensioned turn the motor over by hand (using a socket on the large crank pulley bolt). You need to turn it around fully twice and recheck that everything stayed in time. The engine might fight you at first, but will turn more easily after a good half turn. This is mostly because the hydraulic lifters are tight after being drained (or when new). Once they are exercised a little, they will begin to adjust - even without oil pressure, and the engine will turn more easily.
I have the valve cover removed but one of the rods seems to be stuck in it or at least hard to remove. Any tips?
Can u put a used cam cover on a volvo s60 2.5t ? From junkyard?
Did you try ?
@@EARTHKEENING No. The camshaft cover is a matched pair with the head. There are numbers on the end so the factory doesn't get them mixed up.
Tack, bra video
is there a way that The camshaft will be installed reversible by that i mean The intake on The exhaust and the exhaust on the intake
How did you clean this
Nice one, cool box you sent to AvE.
Awesome!
How do I find the lifters
1. How is the aluminimum so bright and clean?
2. How to check valve gaps on this?
1 paint 2 idk
Hydraulic lifters takes care of the valve gap
Como poner los árboles de la bolbo 6 cilindros
Bien no sabía como ponerlo a tiempo yaque si mueves las poleas se pierde el punto
Buenas tengo el mismo problema como lo solucionaste
Do you have the specs for the tool you made ?
+Henning Jonsson Thank you!
i dont really understanding the two studs what are they pressing
+josh Moreno thank you for the timing on the cam shaft but i want to known the timing for the crankshaft position an which piston is on the tdc; thank you wish to hear from you soon
+Balla Diame no problem. Sorry, I'm not really understanding your question. If you want to know how to lock the crankshaft position once it is at TDC, then you don't have to do anything. It is very hard to move on it's on, so it shouldn't move unless you put a socket and ratchet on it and start turning it. But if you insist on locking it, there is a special tool in that kit i linked to in my last comment. I never used it though, so can't really tell you how it works. They call it a "crankshaft alignment tool". Don't know if it locks it or just aligns it without locking it. Does that help?
+Balla Diame Also, if you mean "how do I know when I get to TDC?" - then there are notches on the camshafts gear that should be pointing straight up. The timing cover should also have notches in it indicating where TDC is so all you have to do is turn the crankshaft (which will turn the camshafts if timing belt is on) and line up the notches on the cam gears to the notches on the timing cover.
what are the specs on the tools you made to this project? or the names of the actual tools need to do this?
PJ Knox his methods are described in at least 1 of the Volvo Haynes manuals