So just to go back to my comment I had made 2 years ago. I see that I hadn't explained things properly. So with the m50 intake manifold intalled, you could run your an oil catch can, the original ccv system or even the e39 m5s thinner ccv system (might be good to watch craig from build a beemer on his m50 swap.) The important thing to note is that you can draw too little or too much crank case vacuum from the engine. What will each do. So... Too little crank case vacuum and there will be air in your engine which could contaminate your oil with condensation and the works as well as create windage on your crankshaft and the best way to explain windage would be to imagine you are sprinting in a 100m race and the wind is pushing against you... you won't be able to run as fast as if there was no wind ie for the engine a reduction in power. Too much crankcase vacuum and you may pull oil through your ccv lines and a common symptom would be that there is oil leaking out of the top fitting on your valve cover pushing oil out past the seals. Another bad side about too much vacuum is that your low end and main bearings may suffer due to loss in oil pressure as the vacuum may reduce the oil pressure at the oil bearings where it sucks the oil out from the bearing itself. If you have a whole lot of crank case pressure however, meaning it is pushing a lot of air out of your ccv connection on top of your engine by your valve cover it would indicate that your piston rings are worn and or cylinder walls are ovular creating a bit more blow-by. Ever engine in the world even ones with so called gapless rings will have some blow-by as the rings have a gap in them and the engine would thus always leak a bit of air past the rings, but if its bad and you're burning oil as well then I would recommend rebuilding the engine. If you do replace your rings, get hastings rings, the original 2 piece oil ring on the m54 is nonesense and hastings provides a 3 piece oil ring set for the m54 without needing to mix and match with the m52tu. They also came all perfectly gapped to 0.2mm. So getting your vacuum pressures right is about the justs of this comment and the only way to check it is with a vacuum gauge and the works. Every engine will be different on this with different blow-bys but thickness of lines and things is generally the answer. (Engine engine creates vacuum from the pistons pulling air and on the intake it pulls from everywhere)
If you JUST doing all this & even as far as two years ago tunes & slg got expensive & pretty much everything. I did my swap late 2019, found a manifold on ebay for $120, wellso tuning $250, & slg m50 kit for $200.. $560 for what it does is not bad at all..
you will loose low end torque with it but up top in rpm it will breathe better. I been running m50 for a few years now. Idle and starts are fine with mine. you could have a vacuum leak. To run N.A with the m50 would not be worth the extra money unless you boost it. Its nice to have the extra hp up top but you really dont spend much time at 4k rpm up there on the street.
@@brettkrehling8738 that's cuz you didn't have a 💦 water shield, I live in Seattle WA where it rains 8months outta the year,and never had a issue, you gitta make sure u do things properly my guy💯💪
@@jcoach3064 still not an idea setup because you need to run a 2.5 inch pipe behind the headlights that restricts the intake which is 3.5 inches at the maf sensor. Oem closed air box is the most efficient with the air being pulled into kidney grills.
@@brettkrehling8738 🤣 NEGATIVE 💯 MINE IS 3 INCH ALL WAY TO MAF SENSOR, PLUS IM TALKING ABOUT A E39 DIFFERENT SET UP OEM ON THOSE THEN THE E46 💯🤣😂🤣😂💯🤣🤣🤣🤣 OMFG U CLEARLY NEED TO GO BACK TO DRAWING BOARD LITTLE GLITTER DUSTER 🦄
So just to go back to my comment I had made 2 years ago. I see that I hadn't explained things properly.
So with the m50 intake manifold intalled, you could run your an oil catch can, the original ccv system or even the e39 m5s thinner ccv system (might be good to watch craig from build a beemer on his m50 swap.) The important thing to note is that you can draw too little or too much crank case vacuum from the engine. What will each do. So...
Too little crank case vacuum and there will be air in your engine which could contaminate your oil with condensation and the works as well as create windage on your crankshaft and the best way to explain windage would be to imagine you are sprinting in a 100m race and the wind is pushing against you... you won't be able to run as fast as if there was no wind ie for the engine a reduction in power.
Too much crankcase vacuum and you may pull oil through your ccv lines and a common symptom would be that there is oil leaking out of the top fitting on your valve cover pushing oil out past the seals. Another bad side about too much vacuum is that your low end and main bearings may suffer due to loss in oil pressure as the vacuum may reduce the oil pressure at the oil bearings where it sucks the oil out from the bearing itself.
If you have a whole lot of crank case pressure however, meaning it is pushing a lot of air out of your ccv connection on top of your engine by your valve cover it would indicate that your piston rings are worn and or cylinder walls are ovular creating a bit more blow-by. Ever engine in the world even ones with so called gapless rings will have some blow-by as the rings have a gap in them and the engine would thus always leak a bit of air past the rings, but if its bad and you're burning oil as well then I would recommend rebuilding the engine.
If you do replace your rings, get hastings rings, the original 2 piece oil ring on the m54 is nonesense and hastings provides a 3 piece oil ring set for the m54 without needing to mix and match with the m52tu. They also came all perfectly gapped to 0.2mm.
So getting your vacuum pressures right is about the justs of this comment and the only way to check it is with a vacuum gauge and the works. Every engine will be different on this with different blow-bys but thickness of lines and things is generally the answer. (Engine engine creates vacuum from the pistons pulling air and on the intake it pulls from everywhere)
how does one control the amount of crank case vacuum with a catch can setup? Thanks
That adapter was supposed to come with flush mount hardware to avoid shaving the throttle body like that
You are right! I noticed that after 😂 I bought the setup used and thats how it was attached to the manifold
Between m50 intake 200$ , parts where another 400$ on seems legit , tuned ecu is 299$
For almost 1k$ 15hp lol was going to do this but idk now
Agreed not worth the time unless you are going to run some serious boost
Or if u find one for like 100 or less and just pay for a tune lol
If you JUST doing all this & even as far as two years ago tunes & slg got expensive & pretty much everything. I did my swap late 2019, found a manifold on ebay for $120, wellso tuning $250, & slg m50 kit for $200.. $560 for what it does is not bad at all..
lol you can do this mods for under 500 quit being a wimp
Get a heat shield for that air filter. The M54 runs hot and you are sucking in that hot air...not good for hp...
You could've taken the studs out the head instead of drilling the intake but what you did was ok
What about purge valve. deleted ir not
if your engine is reving at 7000rpm and your tires are not squealing your clutch is getting destroyed.
Did you buy this car rear ended by any chance?
Any improvements? All I’ve read people say is that m50 works only on turbo applications.
it gains you some horsepower because the M50 manifold is quite bigger than the M52/M54 ones and is more free-flowing
been running m50 manifold with slg tune for a while and i love it. a little rough idle on cold starts but it runs perfect once she warms up.
you will loose low end torque with it but up top in rpm it will breathe better. I been running m50 for a few years now. Idle and starts are fine with mine. you could have a vacuum leak. To run N.A with the m50 would not be worth the extra money unless you boost it. Its nice to have the extra hp up top but you really dont spend much time at 4k rpm up there on the street.
@@909blood you might need vanos seals
Cosmo racing makes a TRUE cold air intake that gies doen by fog lights
I had a similar setup like that , it was terrible. I almost hydro locked my engine hitting a big puddle
@@brettkrehling8738 that's cuz you didn't have a 💦 water shield, I live in Seattle WA where it rains 8months outta the year,and never had a issue, you gitta make sure u do things properly my guy💯💪
@@jcoach3064 still not an idea setup because you need to run a 2.5 inch pipe behind the headlights that restricts the intake which is 3.5 inches at the maf sensor. Oem closed air box is the most efficient with the air being pulled into kidney grills.
@@jcoach3064 also I live in southwest Florida where when it rains , the roads turn into rivers, haha
@@brettkrehling8738 🤣 NEGATIVE 💯 MINE IS 3 INCH ALL WAY TO MAF SENSOR, PLUS IM TALKING ABOUT A E39 DIFFERENT SET UP OEM ON THOSE THEN THE E46 💯🤣😂🤣😂💯🤣🤣🤣🤣 OMFG U CLEARLY NEED TO GO BACK TO DRAWING BOARD LITTLE GLITTER DUSTER 🦄