Great looking cottages! It's always a treat to find a tutorial that uses stuff you probably have on hand or is easily obtained rather than starting with "go out and spend a bucket full of cash".
Thank you. It is definitely possible to make some nice windows with bits of balsa or plastic or foam. 3D printing just makes it easier to do a lot of them, but tends to lose the quirkiness.
Thanks for sharing this vid. I’ve been thinking of paper mache for the set pieces of my short film as well. Have you seen any downsides to using it? Such as potentially cracking over time?
Hi Roo. You can see that I am a fan of papier mache. Some of the sets in the video are several years old, and they are still going strong. You should know that when you are applying the pulp it can soften the cardboard to the extent that a big structure can sag if it is not adequately supported. I have added wood pieces in the past when I wanted a straight wall, but the easiest way is to apply the pulp to MDF. Sometimes I have needed to extend a wall or cut a doorway into it. The paper mache joins onto itself a treat. And it is really tough. Those cottages can be lifted by the chimneys! You can cover a piece in stages, one wall at a time, with no problems. This also helps with not getting the whole structure soggy at once! Another good use is for flagstones or cobbles on a set floor. I hope the video showed how important it is to get the pulp to 'skin' over - harden on the surface a bit, so that when you press e.g. a texture roller into it the material is not lifted off. You can only get this through experimenting and learning the material. But when it is set, the pulp is rock hard and can be drilled. With some of it I have even had difficulties sanding, it was that solid! It certainly doesn't crack over time, once it is hardened. Do have a look at the Ultimate Paper Mache videos by a charming American lady. She has good examples of using the stuff for quite big sculpts. Oh, and it dries very slowly, and shrinks a little, only significant if you are doing big lumps, in which case build it up in layers.
@@oddplanetstudios6172 Apologies for the late reply, I never got a notification for some reason. Huge thank you for such a detailed response. I’ve made a note of it all.
I think the PVA is pretty much essential, but if you missed out the linseed oil it probably would not make much difference. I think it is there to make the pulp a bit more durable and smoother to work with. The PVA bonds the pulp to the substrate and adds flexibility. It is possible to make a Papier mache just using flour and water glue, but it is not very strong.
@@oddplanetstudios6172 thank you a lot for your answer! I've found the PVA glue today! I wonder wether olive oil could work? I know nothing about linseed oil - rare and expensive here…
@@louischvs9395 Interesting, as olive oil is generally more expensive than linseed! If you can find artists' supplies for oil paints, they will have linseed oil. The difference is that linseed is a drying oil, whereas vegetable oils remain tacky. However, I am not sure this matters much with papier mache. I'll do a test and let you know, as I have a model on the go at the moment. I will be using sunflower oil rather than olive oil as it is cheaper and mentioned elsewhere as an alternative.
I had no idea you could make something so cool from cardboard
Nice !!!!!! Such a great idea for the roof. !!
Those houses are beautiful, you have so much talent in your art. It was a lot of work.
Great looking cottages! It's always a treat to find a tutorial that uses stuff you probably have on hand or is easily obtained rather than starting with "go out and spend a bucket full of cash".
Thank you. It is definitely possible to make some nice windows with bits of balsa or plastic or foam. 3D printing just makes it easier to do a lot of them, but tends to lose the quirkiness.
I absolutely adore this. So quaint & beautiful. So much character. Just lovely.
I think this tutorial was Brilliant❤🤩 and I'd love to try it on my own English cottage project.
What an inspiring video. Amazing! Thank you!
Beautiful work!
Thanks👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼🌺
So cute!
Fantastic job!
wonderful! so inspiring!
Lovely!
Thanks for sharing this vid. I’ve been thinking of paper mache for the set pieces of my short film as well. Have you seen any downsides to using it? Such as potentially cracking over time?
Hi Roo. You can see that I am a fan of papier mache. Some of the sets in the video are several years old, and they are still going strong. You should know that when you are applying the pulp it can soften the cardboard to the extent that a big structure can sag if it is not adequately supported. I have added wood pieces in the past when I wanted a straight wall, but the easiest way is to apply the pulp to MDF. Sometimes I have needed to extend a wall or cut a doorway into it. The paper mache joins onto itself a treat. And it is really tough. Those cottages can be lifted by the chimneys!
You can cover a piece in stages, one wall at a time, with no problems. This also helps with not getting the whole structure soggy at once!
Another good use is for flagstones or cobbles on a set floor. I hope the video showed how important it is to get the pulp to 'skin' over - harden on the surface a bit, so that when you press e.g. a texture roller into it the material is not lifted off. You can only get this through experimenting and learning the material. But when it is set, the pulp is rock hard and can be drilled. With some of it I have even had difficulties sanding, it was that solid! It certainly doesn't crack over time, once it is hardened.
Do have a look at the Ultimate Paper Mache videos by a charming American lady. She has good examples of using the stuff for quite big sculpts. Oh, and it dries very slowly, and shrinks a little, only significant if you are doing big lumps, in which case build it up in layers.
@@oddplanetstudios6172 Apologies for the late reply, I never got a notification for some reason. Huge thank you for such a detailed response. I’ve made a note of it all.
Happy to help. Message me on FB or elsewhere if you want some specific questions answered.
Is it possible to use something else instead of PVA and inseed oil?
I think the PVA is pretty much essential, but if you missed out the linseed oil it probably would not make much difference. I think it is there to make the pulp a bit more durable and smoother to work with. The PVA bonds the pulp to the substrate and adds flexibility. It is possible to make a Papier mache just using flour and water glue, but it is not very strong.
@@oddplanetstudios6172 ok thank you very much
@@oddplanetstudios6172 thank you a lot for your answer! I've found the PVA glue today! I wonder wether olive oil could work? I know nothing about linseed oil - rare and expensive here…
@@louischvs9395 Interesting, as olive oil is generally more expensive than linseed! If you can find artists' supplies for oil paints, they will have linseed oil. The difference is that linseed is a drying oil, whereas vegetable oils remain tacky. However, I am not sure this matters much with papier mache. I'll do a test and let you know, as I have a model on the go at the moment. I will be using sunflower oil rather than olive oil as it is cheaper and mentioned elsewhere as an alternative.
@@oddplanetstudios6172 thank you a lot!