@@TheShopMiniRC I got the Patriotic looking one and the Black one. I am upgrading the first one with red like you did and the Black one with silver aluminum. They are already the blx so upgraded diffs/drives.
Most people don't realize alot of this aluminum stuff isn't exactly plug-and-play. There will be custom work you need to do, and sometimes, the part might just be straight up not worth it (too much play you can't remove) Personally I don't loctite anything anymore, if a bolt is turning out there is bigger problem that I address head-on, even if it means going back to the stock part or a different aftermarket version. The aluminum stuff is great you just need to pick and choose your battles. I build my RC's for durability now, which usually means 50/50 stock plastic and metal upgrades. If you want some simple upgrades to start, buy some rocket RC fans for the motor and ESC, big upgrade for nothing and no work.
@TheShopMiniRC I installed lower front and rear A arms and Alu steering rods. I left the stock upper A arms to allow some flexing. Its sharp, handles real well. I have Alu GPM steering setup on order. Wish there was something we could do about that huge chunk of plastic connecting front and rear diffs.Talk about a faff to get into the motor, 10 screws, that must be some kind of record.
I hope this isn't a silly question, but does it work with all the groms? Seems like the insides of them are essentially the same, but i am a newbie and waste enough money on things i assume will work then don't lol. At the very least all that aluminum will look cool af imo. cheers
for Mojave only. Mojave has shorter length Arms. Technically you could use the kit on the Typhon or Granite but it would have a 8mm-10mm narrower track width and would roll over much easier.
Technically you Could use this kit on another Grom but it would change the track width of the truck to a Mojave width. The steering parts and diff cover as well as metal cups would all work on any other grom or even the losi nascar.
for the a-arm pivot pins, 1.5mm. It will help reduce a lot of play in those arms and caster blocks. The other joints (Ball joints) could use some rubber o-rings.
The slop would be concerning for me because I like my cars tight. I don't think it really matters the dog bones / universals in the rear end. Definitely looks cool tho, furitek's gone metal...
![Lp. Сердце Вселенной #60 РОЖДЕНИЕ ЛОЛОЛОШКИ [Финал] • Майнкрафт](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/YoR0pAV9FVQ/mqdefault.jpg)
Furitek's GONE METAL!!! nice build
ty! Its a cool rig for sure
@@TheShopMiniRC I got the Patriotic looking one and the Black one. I am upgrading the first one with red like you did and the Black one with silver aluminum. They are already the blx so upgraded diffs/drives.
@ those will look damn good!!! I need to get a BLX. Def want the black one.
Most people don't realize alot of this aluminum stuff isn't exactly plug-and-play. There will be custom work you need to do, and sometimes, the part might just be straight up not worth it (too much play you can't remove)
Personally I don't loctite anything anymore, if a bolt is turning out there is bigger problem that I address head-on, even if it means going back to the stock part or a different aftermarket version.
The aluminum stuff is great you just need to pick and choose your battles.
I build my RC's for durability now, which usually means 50/50 stock plastic and metal upgrades.
If you want some simple upgrades to start, buy some rocket RC fans for the motor and ESC, big upgrade for nothing and no work.
Good info. Thanks!!
What aluminum shocks are those? Looks nice, not sure I would but I appreciate you taking the time to do this 👍
The shocks are Nexx Racing shocks… they are absolutely amazing!
Would you mind sharing a link? The ones I found are for the crawlers. Thanks
@@martintrj5620 directrc.com/search?q=Nexx+racing+grom+typhon&sca_ref=6800294.3WnEGiV9n4p
Thanks 👍
try using the traxxas teflon washers for shimming up those aluminum parts. using steel shims will gall the aluminum goodies and bind things.
Good idea.
I did this to my typhoon and the steering is so clunky now I might have to get a stronger and faster steering servo
make sure there is no binding and if there is a lot of slop, try to shim it out.
Salut est-ce que ces pièces ont trop de jeux? Le véhicule perd en qualité?
As I mention in the video, you will definitely want to shim some stuff.
I did that with my Grom, but I used GPM
Nice! How are you liking it?
@TheShopMiniRC I installed lower front and rear A arms and Alu steering rods. I left the stock upper A arms to allow some flexing. Its sharp, handles real well. I have Alu GPM steering setup on order. Wish there was something we could do about that huge chunk of plastic connecting front and rear diffs.Talk about a faff to get into the motor, 10 screws, that must be some kind of record.
Furitek has gone metal.. It looks cool. 🎉
@@vapingnoah828 thanks for watchin.
I hope this isn't a silly question, but does it work with all the groms? Seems like the insides of them are essentially the same, but i am a newbie and waste enough money on things i assume will work then don't lol. At the very least all that aluminum will look cool af imo. cheers
for Mojave only. Mojave has shorter length Arms. Technically you could use the kit on the Typhon or Granite but it would have a 8mm-10mm narrower track width and would roll over much easier.
Technically you Could use this kit on another Grom but it would change the track width of the truck to a Mojave width. The steering parts and diff cover as well as metal cups would all work on any other grom or even the losi nascar.
I wanna see it run. Should be a bit more planted but maaaaaan I hope you don’t wreck!
I’m sure I’ll get some running video up at some point. Especially if I go brushless.
2.5mm or 3.0mm washers?
for the a-arm pivot pins, 1.5mm. It will help reduce a lot of play in those arms and caster blocks. The other joints (Ball joints) could use some rubber o-rings.
The screw that you just put Loctite on for the cup goes into plastic
Fuuuuuuuu…. Why does arrma use so much plastic in the diffs…. Guess we will see how it lasts. lol.
@ as far as I know this is the only rc they’ve made with plastic gears and they did that to keep the cost down
The slop would be concerning for me because I like my cars tight. I don't think it really matters the dog bones / universals in the rear end. Definitely looks cool tho, furitek's gone metal...
Totally understand that. Thanks a bunch for watching.