Another great video by Andrew Berry. This is the first time I have seen one of his tutorials with subtitles ! I couldn't help but read them just to see how many made up words there were 🤣💟
An absolutely brilliant and clear video of how to do it the right way and get a perfect result every time. Thank you for all the education work, Andrew! Honestly, I can say “I love soldering” after watching your videos.
That's interesting I don't bother to ball up my solder and it jumps all over the place, I think I may do it this way from now on, thanks I've learnt something new
WOW. So glad I found you. My favorite people to learn from are perfectionists. You explain absolutely everything, it really helps me to put the whole picture together. I think this will help me get through my first piece successfully
Thank you Mr Berry. I have been struggling with soldering a bezel to a backplate. Going down to my workroom right now! I appreciate your tutorials because you are so thorough with your explanations plus the photography is outstanding. 😄
As a budding silversmith and jewelry creator I am always looking for new and efficient techniques. Thank you for taking the time to share your knowledge!!
This ball trick is just amazing! Thank you, Andrew! I'm about to make a slew of cabochon pendants and this will probably help tremendously. Cannot wait to try it.
Hello! Andrew, I actually follow you some time and like the way as I plead and teach very pedagofical. I come from the old school 48 years ago, but I love to see your program from Canada, where I live a few years ago as well. I hope you can continue teaching for many years. Congratulations
jerry stoneman Any idea why/when Americans started saying, “sodder”? (It drives me nuts! Probably because ‘sod’ and ‘sod yer’ is rude in BritLand.) I’ve seen older videos where they pronounce the ‘L’. I always want to yell at the screen (and sometimes do), “What do you call individuals in an army?!?!?” (never heard *anyone* call them ‘soddyers’😉).
So helpful. I had been having a little difficulty, and after using a make shift trivet to heat the base of the metal, the solder flowed perfectly. Thanks for your excellent videos. I have watched several .
I've been working today trying for the first time to solder a gallery wire bezel to the back plate. I wish my soldering went as well as yours. I am going to give this method a try before I cry. You make it look so easy. Thank you, for your expertise.
I really appreciate your detailed and excellent instruction. The use of binding wire on a fine silver bezel never worked for me and I always distorted the fine silver. Methods: I made sure bezel and backplate were absolutely flat, I created a triangular platform of titanium strips, similar in idea to what you used and tried balled solder instead of pillions on the outside of the bezel. Thank you so much! I would like to explore your classes as prices are listed in pounds. Kindly help. Thanks again.
Well .. I hope I find the love for soldering.. at the moment I’m picking a window to throw it all through!!! ...you make it look so easy 😅.. it was my first attempt tho and I couldn’t make the solder flow , seemed I was way to long heating it aswell . Who knows practice practice practice! I guess
I love watching soldering done well, even more when it’s perfect! I’ve only soldered copper pipe fittings (plumbing central heating) and was always afraid I hadn’t used enough solder in the right places. If only I’d seen your videos (but it was before UA-cam), I’d have understood what was happening. However, those joints haven’t leaked yet...
Another question (please and thank you) - I think many might consider this problem - the front (top) of the bezel setting (complete with backplate attached) has been protected from oxides and firescale by the flux you painted on before soldering the bezel wire to the backplate, however, the back of the backplate, the part that often is seen after the piece of jewelry is complete is not protected by any flux. The enduring flame that is directed at the "underneath" surface is long enough to develop deep firescale. Can this be prevented? I usually hallmark my pieces on the back of the backplate before I solder as its easier to do so on a flat piece of material/sheet. The sanding needed to eliminate firescale can thin or destroy a hallmark. Thank you, Andrew.
Thank you Mr Berry. I love your videos and I have learned so much from you.. But I saw your little flux brush and I feel like I need to send you another 1. Lol
Hi there Andrew., I love everything that you say! I would like to know if I can apply the bezel math to a ring? Love your videos, or should I say film? Just kidding......
Hi Andrew. This video is so detailed and I did everything you said, everything, just with 14k yellow gold, and the solder wont flow......! I just melted the first bezel and is extremely nervous to do it again. I had the same issue with 14k rose gold. I have put in on top of a mesh with space underneath, so heating under the bezel, but nothing happens. I am so deeply frustrated as I have done it before, I have absolutely no clue why all of a sudden this is such a big problem. Silver is still easy to work with for me. Hope you can help me out. Many thanks
What strength of solder did you use for the soldering of the bezel join and subsequently the bezel onto the backplate, Andrew? Hard for the bezel ring and medium for the bezel onto the backplate?
New subscriber here :) I will be taking a course to learn how to solder soon and your tutorial videos have me so excited to try it out for myself! What type of magnifying glasses do you use/what magnifying strength? I know that I will need some of those lol.
It seems like just sanding the baseplate would scratch the metal but more seriously embed any dirt into the emery paper and smear it around, possibly contaminating the next piece you "clean" with "dirt, grease, wax, sticky. I posture that the sanding just gives the surface a bite that is deep enough to endure the "dirt". What do you think? I've always wondered about "sanding dirt away", it just fills the grit of the paper it would seem. The heating works, although I've been advised by goldsmiths (2) that solder doesn't like pickle residue...so, perhaps an additional wash in hot water and soap after heating, quenching, and pickling? There is so much to hear and try to pick through what is accurate. One teacher would discredit another's method. Help, we students need to know!! Thanks for helping us in that endeavor Andrew.
You can't entirely "clean" away wax and oils by sanding; although it will be cleaner because you'll transfer some to the paper. What's happening here is that the sanding "keys" the surface allowing the flux to adhere rather than doing the surface tension thing. The flux is then doing the cleaning when heated.
@@andyslater8064 Thanks SO MUCH Andy, I figured something like that was the physics of it - I always want to really understand the "why" of a situation. It does seem to work for a while at least. I'm thinking maybe throw away THAT sandpaper piece sooner than later if having cleaning issues...
@@flyingcheff It'll be fine when you're using flux because the flux will clean it (provided you get the flux to coat it all - which is what Andrew is doing). When painting (miniatures) I use isopropyl alcohol, an ultrasonic cleaner, or hot soapy water.
There is one reason that I have heard of why/how using hard solder for both operations can be successful. When solder (Hard in this case) is melted and flows, the zinc component is burned up as soldering continues, the amount of zinc in the solder alloy is what makes a solder a certain temp (H, M, E, XE) the more zinc the lower the melting/flow temp. When you solder the first join, at the end of the operation the actual "next" soldering operation will be a lower temp because of the zinc having been burned/used up in the previous (first) join. So, as you progress, each step of soldering gets relatively "cooler" (lower melting point than the previous one. As long as you don't go long and slow (higher heat faster and less time heating), you will win the day! Burning up the zinc by prolonged high heat can strip a previous join of its solder, leaving you with a thin empty space - Bummer! Some jewelers use only Hard or often only Med. It's a physics thing and can be dug out of texts and info. This is what my experience and studying have brought to me. Although I am only a student myself, NOT an expert. I hope this helps you, it helped me when it was explained to me in seeing and reading John Heusler projects in Lapidary Journal Jewelry Artist (LJJA) magazine and in my own practice. Mr. Heusler is a master! I imagine there are many who know and teach this - I'm all ears and brain!! Good luck to you! Another tip: The very best - and amazingly simple and well taught - book on soldering that I have in my library, is "Soldering Demystified" by Jeanette K. Caines; cheap on Ama**n!
Mr Berry, I bezel set a cabochon horizontally on to a back plate, but realize it would be better to set it vertically. Thinking of cutting all around the backplate without removing the stone and reset it onto another backplate using prongs. Kindly advise and thanks.
Andrew, hey, may I ask why you preferred the bezel join on the tighter curve, rather than the straighter curve of the bezel? Also, I’ve heard it said to remove the burr caused by sanding the bezel bottom flat? This person said the burr causes the solder to flow above the back plate, on the burr, and not actually getting good contact. I don’t know this persons level of experience,so I’m asking you, cuz I keep seeing the flux bubble through the bezel and back plate while soldering it down, looking like dots. So,I never think it’s done. Thanks!!
@@Atthebench thanks. I'm watching other videos and see you cover this elsewhere. I have two butane torches but the flame doesn't seem to be as "focused" as what I see in your tutorial. But! Gives me more confidence that I can stick with this style for awhile.
Andrew, does a cold day make it harder for solder. also I don't have the mesh only a solder block. the mesh doesn't sit up high from the block anyway so does that make it hard, should i by the mesh and tripod. I am only new to this.
Hi Andrew, This comment is not related to the video but I figured I'm going to say it anyway. I finally was able to materialize my first silver solder thanks to your soldering video. Thank you so much!
I have gone for solder paste but it keeps turning black and then just coming away from the silver back plate 😭 I’ve tried moving further away and slowing it down but it’s just not working - do you suggest this over the paste? I’m just wasting so much silver sheet 😓 I’m melting it down and trying to reuse it but it’s so disheartening that I just can’t get it! Do you have any ideas what could be happening?
Thank you SO much! I have been struggling with this and and I now know what I've been doing wrong!!! Would you please explain how to choose bezel thickness? Or is it purely a matter of looks? Thanks again...:-)
Absolutely perfect!! 😃 Loved the whole video, clear, easy to understand and follow. Thank you!! 😃
Two of my favorite people to learn from in one place.
@@donnaanasse5177 that's so kind Donna, thank you!
Best technique soldiering of the bezel on the back plate, you’re an awesome teacher. 😊
You are the perfect teacher! You worry about the things, you explain you every move, you’re sincere. Thank you for your existence!!
Gorgeous, gorgeous, gorgeous and perfect
Another great video by Andrew Berry. This is the first time I have seen one of his tutorials with subtitles ! I couldn't help but read them just to see how many made up words there were 🤣💟
I love soldering as well - something about the way the solder reacts to the heat... I just can't get enough of it!! So satisfying :-)
An absolutely brilliant and clear video of how to do it the right way and get a perfect result every time. Thank you for all the education work, Andrew! Honestly, I can say “I love soldering” after watching your videos.
That's interesting I don't bother to ball up my solder and it jumps all over the place, I think I may do it this way from now on, thanks I've learnt something new
WOW. So glad I found you. My favorite people to learn from are perfectionists. You explain absolutely everything, it really helps me to put the whole picture together. I think this will help me get through my first piece successfully
Thank you Mr Berry. I have been struggling with soldering a bezel to a backplate. Going down to my workroom right now! I appreciate your tutorials because you are so thorough with your explanations plus the photography is outstanding. 😄
I appreciate how I can follow along with you as if I'm sitting in class with an instructor. Thank you.
Brilliant clear and precise as always. Cheers Andrew. See you on the next live Q&A.
BEST video I’ve watched on soldering! Thank you so much. Fantastically helpful
Great instruction Andrew. My bits of flat solder would sometimes pop out while heating it up the flux.
As a budding silversmith and jewelry creator I am always looking for new and efficient techniques. Thank you for taking the time to share your knowledge!!
When the solder took Into the metal and flowed I got goosebumps!!! A most beautiful solder joint Andrew. Very fine work.
This ball trick is just amazing! Thank you, Andrew! I'm about to make a slew of cabochon pendants and this will probably help tremendously. Cannot wait to try it.
Hello! Andrew, I actually follow you some time and like the way as I plead and teach very pedagofical. I come from the old school 48 years ago, but I love to see your program from Canada, where I live a few years ago as well. I hope you can continue teaching for many years. Congratulations
good idea of balling up solder, nice adherence to bezel as well as back plate.
This video was so helpful. I have taken many classes and have never had it explained this well, so thank you so much!
Oh ma lawrd! I can’t thank you enough for this tutorial! I just made one and it’s PERFECT! Thank you!
Love the tip for balling up the solder pallions before placing inside the bezel. Thanks very much for another perfect technique video!
Love how you Britt's pronounce the word solder. Thanks for the lesson.
jerry stoneman Any idea why/when Americans started saying, “sodder”? (It drives me nuts! Probably because ‘sod’ and ‘sod yer’ is rude in BritLand.) I’ve seen older videos where they pronounce the ‘L’. I always want to yell at the screen (and sometimes do), “What do you call individuals in an army?!?!?” (never heard *anyone* call them ‘soddyers’😉).
Very nice to see an instructional video from someone who understands how to teach. Subscribed and will share your work! Thank you!
Fantastic, so clear, allowed me to make a bezel for a cabochon first time around!
So helpful. I had been having a little difficulty, and after using a make shift trivet to heat the base of the metal, the solder flowed perfectly. Thanks for your excellent videos. I have watched several .
You have mastered your art, always a great lesson to learn. 1000 thanks for it.
You are an excellent teacher. I have learned so much from you already. Thank you!
I've been working today trying for the first time to solder a gallery wire bezel to the back plate. I wish my soldering went as well as yours. I am going to give this method a try before I cry. You make it look so easy. Thank you, for your expertise.
You used a lot more solder than i was expecting :) Jeanette Caines is a great advocate of using balled solder.
I've not seen the ball technique before. Brilliant!
I really appreciate your detailed and excellent instruction. The use of binding wire on a fine silver bezel never worked for me and I always distorted the fine silver. Methods: I made sure bezel and backplate were absolutely flat, I created a triangular platform of titanium strips, similar in idea to what you used and tried balled solder instead of pillions on the outside of the bezel. Thank you so much! I would like to explore your classes as prices are listed in pounds. Kindly help. Thanks again.
Great piece of teaching. I got it! He made it clear and concise enough to learn from. Not easy. Great job. Many thanks.
대단히 감사합니다. 선생님의 튜토리얼은 저에게 많은 가르침을 주십니다.
As always...I LOVE EVERY SINGLE ONE OF YOUR VIDEOS! Happy New Year!
Perfection. Such a great teacher 😊
Cheers Andrew love these vids clear & concise instruction.
My husband is absolutely addicted to soldering. I think he may be on to something! 😀
you helped me on my college brooch jewelry project and it was a success, thank you
I sure appreciate your videos, you're an awesome teacher ❤️.
Your best skill just might be teaching.
Thank you. 👍👍
Thank you. Great explanation.
Excellent instruction, as always.
I'm learning so much from you . Thank YOU So Much . 🌻
Thank you so much for this information. Youre awesome
Super, super fantastic.
I think I could listen to your voice, just because, even though, yes, I want to improve my solder skills.mahalo.
Thank you for this video! Very, very helpful.
Thank you for your great lessons!
Perfect, Perfect, Perfect BRILLIANT! TU!
Thanks Andrew!
Very clear and easy to follow. Thank you!
Perfect thank you
Absolutely gorgeous!! Thank you for sharing! 👏🏻💎
Thank you that’s helped me no end 🎉🎉
I love your videos they are insanely helpful
Well .. I hope I find the love for soldering.. at the moment I’m picking a window to throw it all through!!! ...you make it look so easy 😅.. it was my first attempt tho and I couldn’t make the solder flow , seemed I was way to long heating it aswell . Who knows practice practice practice! I guess
Another great video. Thank you so much for sharing x
Thank you so much, great instructions!
I love watching soldering done well, even more when it’s perfect! I’ve only soldered copper pipe fittings (plumbing central heating) and was always afraid I hadn’t used enough solder in the right places. If only I’d seen your videos (but it was before UA-cam), I’d have understood what was happening. However, those joints haven’t leaked yet...
Love your videos I find them so informative, by the way I think you should use Doly Parton as your them tune 925
Fantastic! So clear and informative 🙏💯💜
Excellent. Thanks.
Another question (please and thank you) - I think many might consider this problem - the front (top) of the bezel setting (complete with backplate attached) has been protected from oxides and firescale by the flux you painted on before soldering the bezel wire to the backplate, however, the back of the backplate, the part that often is seen after the piece of jewelry is complete is not protected by any flux. The enduring flame that is directed at the "underneath" surface is long enough to develop deep firescale. Can this be prevented? I usually hallmark my pieces on the back of the backplate before I solder as its easier to do so on a flat piece of material/sheet. The sanding needed to eliminate firescale can thin or destroy a hallmark. Thank you, Andrew.
All that you need to de-grease the backplate is 90 % rubbing alcohol thanks for vid ur great !!!
Andrews is copper the same?
Love your teachings.... have been a student "on the bench" but had to put on hold momentarily.
Thanks
Very nice! 👍
right on mate
Thank you 🤝
Thank you Mr Berry. I love your videos and I have learned so much from you.. But I saw your little flux brush and I feel like I need to send you another 1. Lol
Hi there Andrew.,
I love everything that you say!
I would like to know if I can apply the bezel math to a ring?
Love your videos, or should I say film? Just kidding......
Hi Andrew ! Awesome informative tutorials. Would the same rules apply for a patterned saw pierced back plate? And what thickness would you recommend?
Great help, thank you
Hi Andrew. This video is so detailed and I did everything you said, everything, just with 14k yellow gold, and the solder wont flow......! I just melted the first bezel and is extremely nervous to do it again. I had the same issue with 14k rose gold. I have put in on top of a mesh with space underneath, so heating under the bezel, but nothing happens. I am so deeply frustrated as I have done it before, I have absolutely no clue why all of a sudden this is such a big problem. Silver is still easy to work with for me. Hope you can help me out. Many thanks
Nice jobb
Thank you so much
Awesome!
Fantastic video Andrew. One question, where did you get the metal stand that you put the backplate and bezel on?
What strength of solder did you use for the soldering of the bezel join and subsequently the bezel onto the backplate, Andrew? Hard for the bezel ring and medium for the bezel onto the backplate?
Hi Andrew! Thank you for your videos and your knowledge. which solder did you use for the bezel?
New subscriber here :) I will be taking a course to learn how to solder soon and your tutorial videos have me so excited to try it out for myself! What type of magnifying glasses do you use/what magnifying strength? I know that I will need some of those lol.
Great video! What size bezel are you using?
Hi Andrew, will this technique work for a large bezel as well - I really like it as it prevents accidental melting of the bezel?
Great video! I love the enthusiasm. I was surprised you didn’t cry though 😂😂 just kidding.. Gotta love what you do, right?
Which torch are you using? What are the specs on the solder? Which type of flux? Why did you neglect to declare these things? They do matter.
Grazie, veramente esplicativo…
It seems like just sanding the baseplate would scratch the metal but more seriously embed any dirt into the emery paper and smear it around, possibly contaminating the next piece you "clean" with "dirt, grease, wax, sticky. I posture that the sanding just gives the surface a bite that is deep enough to endure the "dirt". What do you think? I've always wondered about "sanding dirt away", it just fills the grit of the paper it would seem. The heating works, although I've been advised by goldsmiths (2) that solder doesn't like pickle residue...so, perhaps an additional wash in hot water and soap after heating, quenching, and pickling? There is so much to hear and try to pick through what is accurate. One teacher would discredit another's method. Help, we students need to know!! Thanks for helping us in that endeavor Andrew.
You can't entirely "clean" away wax and oils by sanding; although it will be cleaner because you'll transfer some to the paper. What's happening here is that the sanding "keys" the surface allowing the flux to adhere rather than doing the surface tension thing. The flux is then doing the cleaning when heated.
@@andyslater8064 Thanks SO MUCH Andy, I figured something like that was the physics of it - I always want to really understand the "why" of a situation. It does seem to work for a while at least. I'm thinking maybe throw away THAT sandpaper piece sooner than later if having cleaning issues...
@@flyingcheff It'll be fine when you're using flux because the flux will clean it (provided you get the flux to coat it all - which is what Andrew is doing). When painting (miniatures) I use isopropyl alcohol, an ultrasonic cleaner, or hot soapy water.
Do you use hard solder for both the bezel and back plate?
Yes you can use medium for the backplate if you are not confident at soldering
There is one reason that I have heard of why/how using hard solder for both operations can be successful. When solder (Hard in this case) is melted and flows, the zinc component is burned up as soldering continues, the amount of zinc in the solder alloy is what makes a solder a certain temp (H, M, E, XE) the more zinc the lower the melting/flow temp. When you solder the first join, at the end of the operation the actual "next" soldering operation will be a lower temp because of the zinc having been burned/used up in the previous (first) join. So, as you progress, each step of soldering gets relatively "cooler" (lower melting point than the previous one. As long as you don't go long and slow (higher heat faster and less time heating), you will win the day! Burning up the zinc by prolonged high heat can strip a previous join of its solder, leaving you with a thin empty space - Bummer! Some jewelers use only Hard or often only Med. It's a physics thing and can be dug out of texts and info. This is what my experience and studying have brought to me. Although I am only a student myself, NOT an expert. I hope this helps you, it helped me when it was explained to me in seeing and reading John Heusler projects in Lapidary Journal Jewelry Artist (LJJA) magazine and in my own practice. Mr. Heusler is a master! I imagine there are many who know and teach this - I'm all ears and brain!! Good luck to you! Another tip: The very best - and amazingly simple and well taught - book on soldering that I have in my library, is "Soldering Demystified" by Jeanette K. Caines; cheap on Ama**n!
Mr Berry,
I bezel set a cabochon horizontally on to a back plate, but realize it would be better to set it vertically. Thinking of cutting all around the backplate without removing the stone and reset it onto another backplate using prongs. Kindly advise and thanks.
What kind of solder sheet do you recommend for work like this? Extra easy, easy, medium?
Andrew, hey, may I ask why you preferred the bezel join on the tighter curve, rather than the straighter curve of the bezel? Also, I’ve heard it said to remove the burr caused by sanding the bezel bottom flat? This person said the burr causes the solder to flow above the back plate, on the burr, and not actually getting good contact. I don’t know this persons level of experience,so I’m asking you, cuz I keep seeing the flux bubble through the bezel and back plate while soldering it down, looking like dots. So,I never think it’s done. Thanks!!
I'm learning a lot from your videos. Thank you!
What kind of torch are you using?
+Kirstin Pinit It’s a large hand held butane torche. Dremel makes one type
@@Atthebench thanks. I'm watching other videos and see you cover this elsewhere. I have two butane torches but the flame doesn't seem to be as "focused" as what I see in your tutorial. But! Gives me more confidence that I can stick with this style for awhile.
Andrew, does a cold day make it harder for solder. also I don't have the mesh only a solder block. the mesh doesn't sit up high from the block anyway so does that make it hard, should i by the mesh and tripod. I am only new to this.
Is there a way to close the joint if it does open while soldering the bezel to the back plate? I’m having trouble with this.
Hi Andrew,
This comment is not related to the video but I figured I'm going to say it anyway. I finally was able to materialize my first silver solder thanks to your soldering video. Thank you so much!
I have gone for solder paste but it keeps turning black and then just coming away from the silver back plate 😭 I’ve tried moving further away and slowing it down but it’s just not working - do you suggest this over the paste? I’m just wasting so much silver sheet 😓 I’m melting it down and trying to reuse it but it’s so disheartening that I just can’t get it!
Do you have any ideas what could be happening?
What is the size of the bezel strip and the size of the backplate you're using?
What’s the best gauge for the backplate and strip that holds stone?
Thank you SO much! I have been struggling with this and and I now know what I've been doing wrong!!!
Would you please explain how to choose bezel thickness? Or is it purely a matter of looks? Thanks again...:-)
+Gina Shear don’t go thicker than 0.5mm as you won’t be able to burnish it tightly against the stone
@@Atthebench Thank you!
But sir, do you use different kind of solder? Cause normllaly now the solder of the bezzel wil melt when you solder the backplate right?