How To Pour A Concrete Patio QUICK!
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- Опубліковано 2 чер 2024
- This DIY concrete patio pour is all about how to pour a concrete patio from start to finish. This concrete patio was poured QUICKLY with the help of MudMixer. This video will show the process of framing concrete forms, pouring concrete, and finishing concrete. Bring Your Own Tools (#BYOTools 190).
Tool List:
-MUDMixer: mudmixer.com/byot
-Framing Hammer amzn.to/2XmNErF
-Wheel Barrel homedepot.sjv.io/4eaXo9
-Shovel amzn.to/3x4onRd
-Bull Float homedepot.sjv.io/KeB74n
-Drills amzn.to/2SbHzO1
-Tape Measure goo.gl/nguoOO
-6' Level amzn.to/2J301Qo
-2' Level amzn.to/2RuPUHF
Apparel List:
-Georgia Boots: bit.ly/3yZ4M6J
-BYOT Shirt: bit.ly/2T6l8dE
-Pants: amzn.to/3fU3ySJ
-Work Vest: amzn.to/3ge4jou
Material List:
-Concrete: homedepot.sjv.io/RyGev7
-Wood Stakes: homedepot.sjv.io/n14YP6
-Rebar homedepot.sjv.io/Ea07OP
-2x4x8' Studs: homedepot.sjv.io/EaE4oX
CHAPTERS:
0:00 - Intro
0:33 - Patio Cleanup
2:28 - Concrete Forms
6:35 - Pouring and Finishing Concrete
MUSIC from www.endlessnoise.com/ & www.chernebeats.com
#diy #howto #byot - Навчання та стиль
A magnesium trowel actually pushes down the rocks so the actual cement (cream) comes to the top.
I would have removed those pavers underneath and filled it all in with a good substrate. When you have big variations in your concrete depth across a slab you are going to be susceptible to cracks. More than likely its going to crack right above those voids between the pavers. Control joints can be a good fix. But it also depends on your climate. If you experience a freeze thaw period in your region this will be a larger issue than if you live in a warm climate all year.
It's an interesting piece of equipment, thanks for the video.
Looks good but slightly concerned about how difficult it’s going to be to get that form work out lol
That looks great ! I extended my driveway with concrete that I got delivered in a truck. I dug out the lawn, and put in wooden form work ( it was on a slope, so I was happy with the result ). I filled it with "hardcore" as we say where I'm from ( about 1 inch rock ), then compacted it. I ordered "Farmyard Grade" concrete ( it can take a heavier load ). So 3 tonnes of rock, and 3 tonnes of concrete. We had no idea what we were doing, so the concrete truck driver helped us to screed it. Then I edged it, and we drew a yard brush over it to create tiny ridges as grip lines ( we get frost ). Top Tip : Don't keep smoothing the surface too much or the water will rise to the surface, and when it dries, it might crack. Anyway, we kept weight off it for a week if I remember well, and it's perfect. It about 9 inches deep of concrete, with no rebar or breaks in a triangle about 4 metres on the long side. I'm very proud of it :)
Wow! 9 inches thick is serious!
I love the old exposed aggregate concrete pads, not everyone’s taste but they’re neat and original. Still though your new ones look great. I have a garden that has layers of cardboard and on top cedar mulch which has become a nightmare keeping the cardboard in place (my area has extreme, constant wind) because the cedar mulch isn’t heavy enough to hold it down. Anyways part of me wants to go with premade cement pavers and pebble stones in between but the other part of me is tempted to do something like this because nothing is level around my garden except the wicking beds themselves. If you do cardboard be sure to use something heavier and more permanent than mulch. I had to use cardboard because the awful Bermuda grass comes through all weed barriers I’ve ever used and regardless when I’ve dug it out, it finds it’s way back hence why I went with container beds to keep the Bermuda from choking out my veggies!
Rebar helps with shifting, settling and seismic movement. It's never a bad idea especially when pouring at greater depths.
Agreed. Might be overkill sometimes, but at least a net will help not to crack over time
its not a good idea to pour onto the existing block either, in Canada anyway water will get into the cracks and freeze and push the new concrete and cause movement and damage
I would use rebar to tie slabs together. Just get the wire mesh reinforcement for reinforcing a slab like this.
@@ianbelletti6241 ya its easier to install and just as good
Great improvement already. Looking forward to seeing it busting out. Thanks for this.
You shouldve bought like a 4 inch pvc tube and used it to get the further away forms like a long funnel :p instead of filling up the wheelbarrow each time and dumping it :p
sounds interesting.
I just bought a Mud mixer. Your idea is spot on, however, 4" pvc is just a little too small to fit over the end of the spout. Fortunately I had a piece of idk, i think 6" pvc, left by the previous owners. I cut a small slot to hook over the end of the spout and a bigger slot further down for a handle. It worked really well.
lol cool :p @@dnicar
Your synthetic lawn installation helped me installed my fake lawn.
Thank you for making life better!
Removing forms probably going to be a pain, could have added some foam in-between so you would have some movement available
true. some bottom plate seal foams (sill plate gasket).
this machine is quite the dream.
Handy machine, definitely working in a team of at least two is helpful along with having the right tools. Nice job! 👍
Team of two is definitely helpful IB. Thanks so much for watching and keep up the great work on your channel.
@@BYOTools Will do and my goal is to support as many videos of yours as possible, keep up the great work as well.
I looked into getting one of these but you can only use bags, it’s much faster and cheaper to use cement and aggregate and make your own concrete in a traditional mixer. If I’m within distance of a concrete plant I always get it delivered.
Try some form grease on the wood next time . Stripping looks like it might be tough.👍
I’ve never tried to mix my own concrete. What are the the mix ratios if you don’t mind sharing?
@@BYOTools 1;2;3 iirc (cement, sand, stone)
I was really impressed love
Cant wait to see the finished product.
Can’t wait to show everyone. Thanks so much for watching Chad!
i have a 1957 mongomory wards (ft worth tx w. 7th st) mixer i got from my late father inlaw who still had the sales reciet and manual. this thing is made of heavy metal w/mixing blades inside. i used it up in oklahoma last summer 2022 and has the same motor when he bought it brand new. i think i will just keep using the heavy duty mixer he gave me after his passing. lol
Awesome intel and techniques. D🤙🇺🇸😎
Good job thanks 🙏
Cool machine!
I'm a little surprised that they didn't design it in a way to attach a hose, similar to those found on a large concrete pump.
For small jobs like this, it could completely eliminate having to use the wheel barrow.
You know that gives me a few great ideas for the future. Might have to try a few things out haha! Thanks so much for watching Laurie.
It takes enormous force to pump concrete. What he should have done is just some plywood or OSB over the forms to easily wheel the the mixer to your spot.
Pretty doggo!
Rebar will NOT keep it from cracking or even breaking. What it WILL do is hold the two pieces together once it's cracked or broken and keep them from vertically displacing from each other.
Looking forward to the rebar test review in a year or two. I am sure you'll find cracks where the underlying pavers end and there is no reinforcement.
Is that form lumber oiled or coated with concrete form release agent? It'll be tough to pry those 2x4s out where they're wedged between the individual slabs. Might even have to bust out the jackhammer for tearing those out
When he started screwing the forms together with the heads buried below top of concrete i chuckled and kept watching hoping to witness the struggle lol. The ends are accessible so will see how lucky he is.
Whats he going to do with gaps between the slabs? Fill them with concrete.
Working in bays is fine but you should build them bigger then skip bays so when the forms are removed you can fill in between the bays concrete to concrete.
Could not find second vid . When you pull the forms up what do you do about the gap’s between the forms? I am a little lost lol.
since your using such long spikes did you need to do a utility locator service first?
Next time. Start farthest first. Lay some plywood down. Then work your way out. No wheel barrow no buckets. Just a suggestion. Good luck
I figured that out on day two as you can see in the video haha. great suggesting and thanks for watching Jack
If you were to build a shed in your garden (for a man cave/gym) do you need to pour a concrete slab, or foundations?
Great job! What is the brand and model of the tripod that was shown in the video?
First of all, you could have done this with just the outer form edge. Secondly, they make wire mesh reinforcement that would have been just fine for this application. Third, you could have used your edger to create the pattern you wanted. Fourth, once it sets up enough you could have used a concrete saw along some of the pattern lines to cut expansion joints. Finally, since it's a walking surface exposed to the elements you want to brush the surface in order to add traction.
I want to do something similar. Do you know how many bags you used?
How did you calculate the dimensions for the frames. I didn’t hear the measurements you threw out for the lengths other than the 8’ run.
What Freud saw blade are you using on your Miter?
Thank you for wearing a mask!
So important when dealing with concrete. Thanks for your comment and for watching.
@@BYOTools, if you watch videos of people pouring or even dry pouring concrete with no mask.
My cousin is dying from stage 4 emphysema at 45 years old! It's from not wearing masks when working with certain things.
you'll probably have to jackhammer out the forms...
ahahaha. hope he oiled them at least.
You leaving the wood forms where they are?
Wish me luck. I'll be doing it tomorrow haha :) Thanks for watching Joe
@@BYOTools what will you put where the forms were? Stones or something? I'm interested to see how it turns out. I have a patio I would like to replace and extend
@@BYOTools Spray some penetrating fluid between the wood form and the concrete to lubricate the gap somewhat. You can get a thick walled metal pipe and drill a 1/2" hole clean through it. Through that hole, screw the pipe laying down, perpendicular to your wooden form, using a lag screw. Then slide a cheater bar into your pipe and try to yank it upwards. If you repeat this every 1 ft on the form's length it might be enough to loosen it and lift it out.
You forgot the dog foot prints
Any other engineers here who can pick up that he doesn’t know what he is talking about regarding the concrete strength factors here? Just me? lol definitely a good tradesmen but yes rebar does drastically increase tensile strength of concrete.
🙏👏👍💪
Thanks for watching as always Alain.
Yes they are good machine fantastic, your voice is that your normal speech pattern do you talk like that in normal conversation?
Crackrete is a risky choice. It was a small sq footage. Should have done pavers or bluestone imo
would have had a truck come with cpl of yds and a pump, about same cost.......remove the pavers, grade and fill with gravel....
have mixed a boatload of concrete by hand, truck is cheaper
Couldn’t watch the whole video because you tube kept buffering the video even though I’m connected to 1 gig plus internet!
Hits his hand at 6:13....
Those for s aint coming out😂
I’ll be working it tomorrow. You’d see one way or the other by this weekend haha :)
$3000 I do wish they would drop the price ... maybe rent? .....
Dont think those forms will come out to easy !! Probably be better to leave them in !!
After all the wood rots or you ever cut the wood out it will have huge gaps. As a professional. Would never do it this way. Good luck.
So.. you got a free tool.. but this does not seem like a true impartial test of the tool. Scott brown gets free tools.. and still says what he likes and does not like.. just because you get free tools does not mean you cant say pro and cons to the tool. this task felt like a big add for this tool
yeah but it's fking awesome. but much more expensive than a basic mixer. rental could be worthwhile though.
@0:37 If your sister did just a little maintenance, you probably wouldn't have to pour concrete
14:23 thats a dangerous way to use an angle grinder..
Please tell me you're not leaving the wood forms in there!!! ROFL!
A truck of concrete cost less than that machine I could do this in one day half the time and labor
Would be 100x better to just order a truck for that much concrete. Order a power buggy and be done in 1.5 hours.
3,000 mud mixer vs 300 dollar portable mixer. Maybe good for contractors doing smaller jobs not for diyer.
cant nobody afford that lolol
$3000 for that machine, NO THANKS
So basically it's an add for the concrete mixed. You not doing it the easy way you just doing it the normal way for the country you living in.
no that's called the easy way if the country is prosperous and innovative. poor, back-bending methods for poor countries, easy but expensive methods for rich countries.