Ocean Waves Basics
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- Опубліковано 29 чер 2024
- For an introductory college-level earth sciences class: Review of the basic molecular bonding and shape of the water molecule including a review of what makes a water molecule polar. Review of the basics of ocean waves including wave components, generating and restoring forces, and orbital motion.
**This video comes near the middle of the semester, so there may be terms with which the audience is unfamiliar. For a full playlist, refer to the Geology or Oceanography playlist on the Earth Rocks! UA-cam Channel.
Content within this video is based on information available in any standard introductory college oceanography or geology textbook, such as Essentials of Oceanography -- Trujillo and Thurman -- or Essentials of Geology -- Tarbuck and Lutgens -- both from Pearson Publishing.
Wave Series:
Part 1: Waves Basics
Part 2: Big Waves
Part 3: Rip Currents
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Thank you!
If you are a student this is SUPERB work!
If you are a Professor this is even better!
Came here because of Geography at the Peralta College system.
Thank you. :) These are all videos developed by me (professor) for my Earth Science students at City College of San Francisco.
This is a really great video. It's exactly the stuff I need to know for a test I have tomorrow, so there's an added bonus.
1) Get cool knowledge
2) Pass test
3) ???
4) Eternal bliss
How'd the test go?
@@austinobambino1360 F
Thanks for the explanations.
As a surfer, I'm always looking for a better understanding of the ocean cycles and the phenomena that make surfing possible.
For me, the interesting thing is the chain of cyclic particles beneath the wave that goes all the way down to the wave base, and how they morph into ovals as they drag along the sandbanks or rock/reef shelves.
This creates a space where you can get sucked under the wave simply by diving below the surface even if it is crashing in place.
Peace out!
This is such a clear, well-organised, visually clear video!!! Wow!
Very informative. Thank you!
best video that I have seen about waves. thanks
rad I learned so much, thanks! and you got a shot from the pier in pacifica :)
Very nice work, but at the 5:25 mark, I believe the narrator meant to say 100 feet for heights of the largest waves (ocean swell), not 100 meters. Largest wave height reliably observed on the open ocean = 112 feet (USS Ramapo underway in the north Pacific, 1933).
Thanks -- I rely on my audience to find these errors and note them. I'll fix it on the next version! :)
very nice video.. would be good if you could also include the links to the other parts..
You alredy earned a new subcriptor
I'm sorry, I meant suscriber
This will help me on my quiz!
welldone! thanks :)
Great video, some references would be amazing
Glad you liked it. The references for all images are shown at the end of the video. References for the content are described in the video description:
The content of this video comes from college-level introductory earth science textbooks. Examples: Essentials of Oceanography -- Trujillo and Thurman -- or Essentials of Geology -- Tarbuck and Lutgens -- both from Pearson Publishing.
I hope that helps you. :)
It could be mechanical source ( speed and acceleration of city water pumping, the eighteen wheelers combine acceleration, or the the ocean Beach front wall, or emf thermo wind so strong is make waves or even tsunami) or kinetic source like motion of earth and celestial bodies or bombs so large or super high current high voltage under water Horn
Awesome
7:44 you mention that the particles move in a circular orbit. Is that true only near the sea surface or is it only hold at the deep waters ? I am talking about Stokes Drift or the wave induced current. Are the orbits complete near the sea surface is what I am asking ?
Yes the waves show complete circular orbits from the surface upto some depth and the wave effect completely wanes beyond the wave base which is equivalent to the one half of wavelength of the surface wave.
@@umarmustafa6482 What about the Stokes Drift ? Only the deep water parcels will not exhibit Stokes drift because they have circular orbits. The surface water parcels will move slightly due to the wave induced current.
@@ashwinD12 that is true but here we when we talk about the oscillatory waves, we took it in an idealized manner for our convience, in reality ocean water is inhomogenius and thus suitable for strokes drift velocity law to follow. For non homogenous fluid the surface wave (oscillatory waves) become somewhat assymetric due to the small net movement of water in the direction of propagation of the wave thus producing not perfectly circular orbits and owing to the smaller drift of the wave currents compared to the wavelength of the oscillatory waves we look for them as having near circular orbits at the surface and ignoring the effect of strokes drift (for generalized model).
@@umarmustafa6482 This finally answers my question. Thank you.
Escellent video
Is there a place I can get a copy of that wave period/wave height chart?
Honestly I'm not sure this chart is that useful anymore, as I can't find it outside textbooks. All I see in use by the active ocean science community are charts that separate by wave period, but not by height. Here is a link to a page that uses a textbook image similar to the one I use created for the video: earthsciencesociety.com/2014/12/29/a-tsunami-is-really-a-tidal-wave-except-it-isnt/
And here is a link to one of the best images that focuses solely on wave period: see figure one: onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/full/10.1002/9781118476406.emoe077
@@EarthRocks Thank you for the links! :)
What is the source reference for the image at TI 2:42 ?
All my image references can be found at the end of the video: 15:41 for this one. The image is of internal waves in the intertidal zone -- St. Lawrence Estuary Internal Wave Experiment (SLEIWEX). Unfortunately, that reference is no longer available online (the website link I provided back when I created this video is now dead). However, I did find similar types of images for work done on the Luzon Strait, Philippines. See figure 10 in this reference: agupubs.onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/full/10.1002/jgrc.20083
@@EarthRocks Thank you.
you didn't mention anything about trochoids! they were suggested in images, but weren't explicit!
Hmmm.... sounds like you're looking for the Waves -- beyond the basics video! ;)
Why is a Tsunami on the open ocean a shallow-water wave?
Because to a tsunami (from its perspective), the ocean seems like a shallow puddle. The wavelength of a tsunami is about 200 km. It thus feels bottom at 100 km depth. Anything shallower than 100 km is dragging on the tsunami wave energy and showing it down. The deepest part of the ocean is only 11 km.
i didnt understand anything about this but that good cus im just dumb
It's science afterall
Sir plz solve this.You didn't taught this type.
He then shows Samen a recent seismograph. Time was recorded there. Samen observed many
spikes in the reading. But a few of them were clearly distinguishable. From the time written he
could see that the first spike originated at 5:40 pm. The second larger spike was seen at 6:00 pm.
The scientist told them the earthquake originated pretty far away. As a result there was no harm.
“How far away did it start?” Samen thought. He started to calculate. How far did Samen find the
earthquake’s epicentre was? (Hint P waves have a velocity of 7km/s and S waves have a velocity
of 3.5km/s).
I disagree. Mill’s Mess is the most hands on way to experience waves. Maybe you could argue for Boston Mess. Surfing is all feet.