Wet sleeve/liner cavitation is a problem caused by poor coolant maintenance, whereby air bubble implosions within the coolant remove a protective coating from the exterior of the sleeve/liner. The combustion process causes the liner to oscillate (expand and contract) on the thrust side of the piston creating an area of low pressure which cause air bubbles to come out of the coolant following the contraction period. After contraction, the sleeve/liner then expands into the air bubbles causing the air bubbles to implode creating a shock wave of approximately 60k psi against the side of the sleeve/liner, continually removing small amounts of sleeve/liner material. Eventually, the liner wall becomes perforated, allowing coolant to enter the combustion chamber causing catastrophic failure. Electrolysis is the destruction of metal parts in contact with an acidic coolant when stray electrical currents find their way between two dissimilar metals. This video was a fine example, as Josh stated, of a cavitation issue precipitated by old neglected coolant performing its destructive effects.
That’s a supremely fire analysis, thank you! 60k PSI what the hell... a .45 calibre round produces around 50k PSI. My mind is absolutely blown, though it really shouldn’t be.
Holy smokes, I love these kind of nerdy details. They stick with me for some reason. Please do more or make some vids! New diesel tech here came over from automotive and small equipment
Equipment design engineers should be made to assemble and disassemble every component they design after it has been installed in a completed assembly. With hand tools.
The CEO and board of investors is who needs to be targeted with this idea. They make the decisions. In an actual democracy, we could make this happen. In an actual democracy, decent people would decide such things as a society whole. That isn't capitalism though.
I worked for Loctite back in the 90's. We had an interesting case of cavitation erosion on Isuzu truck engines. These engines used a dry sleeve, and they were suffering from cavitation erosion into the block, which then allowed coolant to migrate down between sleeve and block. They were in a similar locale to your erosion. It was caused by micro porosity in the cast iron block. As the coolant traveled around through the passages, it picked up speed as it turned the corner around the bend and dropped pressure in a way similar to air passing over an aircraft wing. The resultant pressure drop and the small cavitation 'explosions' picked away at the micro porosity and eventuated in a leak. Initially the Isuzu engineers repaired the castings with a welding process, then re machined the block and inserted new liners. This was an expensive process. We trialed the Loctite Impregnation process on the block, which sealed up the porosity with no need to weld and re machine. It was successful. Saved Isuzu a lot of time and money. Eventually I believe they retooled the casting and eliminated the problem. If this is a common issue on your engines, maybe the LIS process could be used on the liners??
I'm not a diesel mechanic but watching and listening helps me to understand the mechanics behind the machine. Thank you for helping me understand better..
The last time I spotted something like that was on an old forklift a guy wanted me to do the engine head work on. I told him based on the condition of the cylinder walls, it might be best to do a full rebuild. He didn't want to do that... I managed to piece it back together, but customers like that inadvertently give technicians a bad name because they blame us for their negligence once the vehicle has a catastrophic failure... 😒
Your exactly right, I was a field svc tech for material handling equipment, they would say oh just replace the hose that’s leaking, I said when I do that the old lines will start to go. Oh no just the one. My pager went off before I got back to the shop, oh they said you left with the truck still leaking. I said, uh no. I told em, they declined, fuck it I’m out. But don’t you know they lied and said I never told them that ? BS just all a part of it. That and mgmt that want you to bill hours no matter what. Portal to portal, so as soon as I jump in my van they are getting billed. I had so many people tell me oh we aren’t paying that, I’d say here’s the number to office, have a great one. It’s not for thin skinned people I’ll tell ya that. Most of us were ex military, coincidence, not likely lol.
Sometimes you gotta know when to walk away & not even get involved with something or someone like that. I have a not-so-nice reputation around here locally among the dead-beats like you describe. But those who listen to my diagnosis & follow what i say treat me like a saint. Their stuff runs reliably as a result. I'm all for saving a buck but not when it's a basket case that's gonna turn into a quagmire. Down with dead-beats!
Liner cavitation is usually caused by the “flex” of the liner under cylinder pressure. Or rather, by the rapid venting of that pressure. The liner snaps back to unexpanded size and the coolant immediately next to it sees a small but intense pressure wave that drastically lowers local boiling point. The coolant spot boils and the bubbles collapse when it converts back to liquid, releasing a small shock wave that is high enough in temperature and pressure to erode metal. A mid-stop liner design is much stiffer and that’s why you almost never hear of cavitation on competing designs using mid stop liners.
People just laught at me when i say maintain your cooling system, use the correct coolant, use the correct additives! They be like "eeh cavitation? never heard of it, I doubt it's a thing really" Thank you for this video :)
not sure what I appreciate more, learning about the mechanics of engines or the top quality investigations into problems? I work in a refinery, cavitation is a common thing we have here on most of our process equipment. The metallurgical findings dealing with equipment failures are fascinating. Possessing Sherlock Holmes type mentality and persistence is such a high quality skill to have. Keep up the good work Ape man.
When taking off an old manifold, loosen each bolt but then do it back up, repeat until all have been done, then take all the bolts out. If you take all the bolts out bar one, it can be a bugger to get out.
One mechanic showed you can check the amt. of Electrolysis using a multi meter, set on milli-volts. The action of the electrolysis creates a voltage, and over a certain amt. it needs to be changed. Scotty Kilmer has a vid on that. Quick and easy check.
I once was repairing a very old locomotive with an inline 6 cylinder diesel. The cylinder I pulled out was about 5/8 of an inch and the cavitation was about 1/2 inch deep. Down both sides. I don't know how much longer that engine lasted. Locomotives just run water for coolant with boron added for rust protection. If we have to shut them down in the winter they are drained.
My guess would be that oil cooler bolt is probably in a decent place when the engine is out of the frame. Engineered for ease of assembly on the production line, serviceability not so much.
I know that many of the folks here have big trucks or maybe generating equipment, but I have a 2004 Motorhome with a C7. I bought it used with 24,000 miles on it 3 years ago. Being in the RV business (service manager) myself I cannot reiterate how important the coolant is in a diesel. Josh has again hit it out of the park (baseball reference). During the very first trip we took in the RV there were coolant issues. First the surge tank split (was made out of a poly material) and had to be replaced. Then I noticed on the return trip that the engine seemed to run a bit warmer than normal. So I took it to a diesel service center and had the coolant drained, including the block, and fully flushed with fresh clean water. Then added the proper antifreeze mixture. Additionally I found that the radiator was partially blocked at the bottom so had that power washed clean as well. Now with proper rpm and torque management I can maintain the coolant temperatures. Most importantly during every oil change, which for me is once a year and after about 3000 miles, the coolant is checked and analyzed for the proper additive concentrations. So very important to do. Again thank you Josh for showing us the damage that can be done by coolant.
Case IH iron gard penetrating oil is a good penetrating oil. We even had a representative from another oil company demonstrating their oils and he even admitted the Case iron gard was better than what they have.
Oh hell that’s an old green ant freeze electrolysis problem that used to be what happen when you didn’t keep up with the sca in the old green anti freeze
Are you sure? I am VERY interested in the specific cause and cost-effective means of prevention. What are the best protective coolant additives now to use instead of changing coolant? stores don't seem to carry coolant corrosion inhibitor anymore, though ebay still has the old school stuff. Can any additive inhibit cavitation?
The old adage of pay it now or pay it later comes to mind when being cheap on servicing your engine. This is not Brick and Scrap iron engine and can cost you $30,000 or more to fix correctly.
I had a Volvo engine in a L90B loader that had compression in the cooling system, it ended being the tip broke off the injector cup. That ended up being an easy fix, well relatively but I can see you have a lot of work ahead of you on this one. Good luck and you produce great videos.
This is why I never run anything on less than 70% antifreeze. There is no case for even 50/50. Even in summer in Texas you will never overheat with 70/30 (antifreeze/water).
I recommend always taking the difficult hard to reach bolts out FIRST. so as to be able to hand loosen it after you break bolt or screw loose, then getting tools out the ways. Now the parts won't be hanging making finger loosening almost impossible.
Good job and good eye too. The downside to finding out these problems, it doesn't always make the customer happy, so it's almost like Catch-22 I suppose. Thanks for sharing your findings. 👍 👍
Hate to think...but many mechanics would have have just put a head gasket on thinking that was all there was to it..Your good observation definitely paid off.
Snap-On has the only air ratchet I'm willing to use- I can't remember what they call it, but it binds itself if it starts to try and eat your hand. Every other one I've had smashes the bejeezus out of your hand. I may have to look into that hammer-head again though. IR makes good stuff (my 3/8 TiMax is going on 11 years old, near daily use)
have writ about that many times...Coolant cavitation is a serious problem ever since wet sleeve engines debuted with 3306, 3406, 407, back in earlier nineties...Always run coolant conditioner determined by a coolant test kit...Coolant condition is ever bit as important to engine life as engine oil...not complicated at all, antifreeze doesn't wear out, conditioner wears out...We quit changing antifreeze 35 years ago, we tested with a Caterpillar coolant test kit and added purple colored Naacool coolant conditioner, Caterpillar dealer sold at the time...When we needed to change coolant heater in an engine the inside of the block was just as clean as the outside...We had conditioner problem one time with low liners in an old D7 17A 18692 engine...So, we learned out lesson, the mechanics at my local dealer told me about my mistake and how to remedy in the future...So we began testing/replacing coolant conditioner in other engines as well...Even the gas engines/pickups cars etc...Neighbors had changed their pickups over to water only coolant during the hot summer that year, later had freeze plugs rusting out...What a job to change those out! So when we needed to change over to water, in order for engine to run cooler during a hot summer, we added Naacool according to the test kit...We never lost a freeze plug except for once in a 68 Plymouth Sport Fury...I changed the one freeze plug that leaked, and ran conditioner after that=no more trouble...I can't prove it but strong believe it helped water pumps last longer as well...We never let coolant turn brown any more, really haven't had a problem with turning brown after using the test kit and conditioner as needed.. 812 385 9036 if want to discuss further, email is rockndirt@sit-co.net.. Am on a farm North of Evansville, Indiana.. There are some wrong advice given on this forum from additions below, I didn't read the original post past the beginning of how to take an engine apart so I can't speak for that...I know water cools better than water-antifreeze when ambient temperature is high and engine is loaded almost continuous...We never had heating problem with the D7, or D6D, but the 977L had to be completely clean radiator core and water for coolant during heat of the summer...I used coolant conditioner with the distilled water to prevent engine damage, and changed back and forth with antifreeze mixture/conditioner and distilled water/conditioner in May and last week of September...I kept each change in plastic five gallon buckets...Was out only the expense of distilled water and coolant conditioner to keep the 3306 in the 977L running below 190 degrees F...977 radiator is tall and narrow to make room for the loader arms, where the 6 and 7 have square radiators that cool much better...The fan is able to cover more of the radiator, we were able to run antifreeze year around in those tractors...Neighbors had trouble with cavitation in their IH engines early on, we didn't have that problem as we learned out lesson with the low liners of the D7 early on...We had Cat, Case, IH, Mack, Cummins, as well as the gas engines so we bought many quart bottles of Naacool from Caterpillar dealer in Evansville..
Recently I just pulled some liners for the first time out of my semi truck, owner operator. When you did the Arnold Schwarzenegger part I laughed so hard my back cracked sitting at the dinner table. Just finished torquing the heads down on my Cummins big Cam so yea my back felt it.
The C13 ones aren't too bad although putting them back in gets sketchy with trying to not hit the seal it drop the rod onto the crankshaft. The C15 ones are way heavier, never done the Cummins packs, but I'm sure they aren't helium filled.
really appreciate you’re videos they back up preventative maintenance using the proper materials for that engine. i’ve never run into this problem but you have to live and learn. thx again
You sir have clearly not learnt the difference between electrolysis and cavitation corrosion erosion. This is cavitation corrosion, i have seen it many times on engines rebuilds I have done.
My boss has had coolant leaks for the last 8 months, he has been filling his 60 series Detroit with straight water for that whole time. He finally got me to fix the leaks, I flushed, changed the coolant and the filter. - It came out that same brownish, orangey color, of course the filter was tightened on so hard the seal looked like a bent in crush washer and the filter was rusted around the top. I hope he hasn't killed the thing, that's a good motor to feed garbage to.
How many hours or miles re on his 60 series? I have one with 3100hrs and have always wondered how long it takes for liner pitting to be a real risk. I do t have good records of perilous coolant change intervals.
Correct. Cavitation is 1 most over looked problem we face. Not only engines but Hyd systems too. It got fluid you got chance of Cavitation. I always say see a mechanic know it all run the other way.
Yep been there had a 88 T600 3406B blown head gasket broken head bolt pull #6 .1000 away from going threw the liner. Hard lesson on proper PH in the coollent. First inframe.
Awsome! Thanks for sharing your knowledge and experience with us. As a diesel tech myself, I love watching all your videos and seeing what kind of stuff you run into. Keep it up!
Had a blown head gasket on a bsx this week. Customer failed to drain the oil and allowed it to sit in there for a couple of months before they brought it to us. They decided they were going to do a platinum. But before I did the platinum I suggested to pull the old pan and pull one rod & one main. Found rust on the crankshaft trashed the engine. Got a long block on the way.
Also note. They decided they were going to start the In-frame before they brought it to us. (I work for a kenworth dealer) That’s my headache for this coming week.
@@AdeptApe what’s your thoughts on the IVA delete. I hear customers say it all the time and I personally think they’re a DA. I understand it was to reduce NOx emissions but instead of deleting them if you could learn to harness it you can make more power. That’s my thoughts. No telling how many ARD heads I have replaced and IVA oil leaks fixed but beside the point. And single turbo conversions..... People love them 6NZ.....
In the old days theirs a product I even use in my cars cooling system called Pencool 3000 . Way back when it went by the name Nacool 3000 . It was designed to prevent Cummins Worms in wet sleeve engines. I’ve actually seen bigger holes then that in sleeves. The problem arises in the firing impulses in the cylinders and harmonics that create theses shockwaves then the water boils into steam that causes the holes. Pencool was developed to stop this and corrosion in the cooling system,,especially on large Diesel engines cooling systems where water is only used and No Antifreeze is added because we are talking 500 gallons or more capacity systems. Even in these systems on tugboats that I worked on it wasn’t uncommon to pump in one or two 55 gallon drums of Pencool 3000 to get the right mix ratio. I can remember pulling a water jacket cover off of a Caterpillar engine that has been in continuous service for years since the last overhaul and the water jackets where perfectly gray cast iron. So I’ve used Pencool 3000 in all my engines for over 4 decades now and in engines with antifreeze it helps stabilize the antifreeze. In my personal cars I get at least 5 to 10 degrees of hot air out of my cars heater in the winter time with Pencool 3000 .
Very good and easy explanation Mr Ape I remember when I first encounter cavitation issues on a diesel engine Back 15 years ago when we start to have new coolant fluids on market n first ting I tougth was we or at least me working with diesel since 1980 never see this issue Wyle on green coolant What's tougths about this
Due to the angle of the connecting rod, the piston gets pushed into the side of the cylinder during the power and compression stroke -- this is called side thrust. You can see this by examining cylinder wear, the side taking the major side thrust (power stroke) usually wears faster and shows up as glazing in the middle of the cylinder on that side. This side thrust causes the liner to oscillate back and forth microscopically. As the liner is moving away, it creates a zone of low pressure in the coolant and bubbles of air start to form. These bubbles implode as the pressure increase again caused by the liner moving back to the original spot. The implosion force is measured in tons per square inch (very powerful), and if it happens close enough to the liner wall it can break off a bit of the steel. Coolant is extremely important because chemicals in the coolant forms a protective layer on surfaces it touches. Cavitation hopefully damages this protective layer. The protective layer is regenerated by draining old coolant and putting in fresh coolant. This is why you need to change coolant every so often, and you should never run straight water in diesel engine (aside from obvious freeze protection).
Had this happen to a 7.3 IDI engine in a Ford pickup. Unfortunately that engine is not sleeved and I had to have it bored and dry sleeved. I'm sure the previous owners didn't run the proper SCAs!
I had a Dodge Caravan with a blown head gasket. I got it from a friend. If you leave coolant in the cylinder for too long, the antifreeze can eat into the cylinder. I was planning on replacing the head gasket and replace it till I found the groove where the antifreeze destroyed the cylinder. I ended up replacing the engine. I have seen snowmobile engines where the nicklecille coating has been boiled off and blistered by antifreeze. If you have a blown head gasket on any engine, that antifreeze will destroy the engine in short order.
A regulated overpressure (positive pressure) will help prevent the forming of caviation or atleast slow it down. So its vital that the cooling system is able to pressurize in adition to having the right coolant.
the older Detroit 2 stokers were really known for this, you have to run the right coolant and keep it up-to date, shit i even run it in my 7.3 Powerstroke yes i know it is over kill but at 275k i must be doing things right.
@@cooperparts the old 7.3 yes but that got fixed so when the Powerstroke came along things were good. but it still has selves around the injectors, and TBH my truck runs a good 10f cooler with purple in it.
Agree had it happen to a 92 F350 with a 7.3....ended up leaking into the cylinder and hydro locked thought it was a head or head gaskets so xhanged both happened again engine was history
This is prolly from exhaust gases we got it going on with a John Deere engine and u can fill it with antifreeze and water and crank it and in 2 or 3 minutes it looks worse than that
I have tried them all and pb blaster is definitely the best penetrating oil. I love the zep brake cleaner, I do not know why it works so much better then any other one I have tried. I hate air ratchets, too slow and never has enough power to break bolts loose.
My coolant turned soo acidic that it rotted away everything in the cooling system except for the heater core and a couple hard lines. It ate the cylinder head, intake manifold, plugged the radiator, ate the thermostat housing, the water pipe, the fittings, throttle body, fitv, iac, and finally it ate the aluminum that surrounded the ring lands on the sleeves. I bought it this way and seemed to be the guy that is fixing the car.
Remove oil pan, pressurize radiator and look for leaks around liner. Have somebody slowly rotate because the piston and ring could be covering up holes from cavitation.
Watching this video has me thinking.. my dad's C13 started pushing coolant through the turbos this past summer. We never did take the engine apart to verify, but I'm wondering if something like this happened with the liners to cause that. We ended up just putting a 6NZ in the truck instead of overhauling the C13. I believe that C13 had 1.2 million miles on it. His coolant, however, was still in great shape, unlike the motor in this video. If you read this, I have a question! Are air compressors interchangeable between the C13 and a C-12? My air compressor is showing signs of letting oil slip past the piston rings, and the compressor on that C13 is very new.. we are looking to just use that one if we can instead of dropping a bunch of money on a new one.
When i bought my diesel ford 7.3 idi I seen the coolant was nice and green but I knew about the cavitation problems they can have I never checked the coolant with a test strip to see how good or bad the additives were i added a bottle of it in to be in the safe side but i wonder if i should buy some test strips and check it only thing i seen in the coolant was a couple of chunks of orange rtv from a bad radiator cap which i put a new one on. I don't normally drive it in the winter so it sits pretty much those 3 months till its nice again.
We had a c13 where the water pump went bad and was leaking coolant into oil system ,crew kept running it for over a month easy, Got to the shop they wanted the water pump fixed so I replaced and checked for leaks , no more coolant leak , found low oil pressure after 30 min idle, so checked the pressure switch then replaced and during inspection I found bad torque arm bushings , replaced and the day I go to pull it out of bay it starts to knock, manager tried saying I put gasoline in filters because the blow by smelt like burned gas 🙄 this place is crazy
Had to rebuild my n14 for this exact reason. If it weren't for this i could have gotten a few hundred thousand more miles out of it as everything else was in great shape. 😕
I also remember on cat c15 n 3406b not in cyl walls but in engine block cav issues somobody on a cat dealer to recommended filled with epoxy n I did Even when I doubt would last It did work specially on areas near cyl walls
I worked for Ohio Machinery/Ohio CAT as field service tech and remember a chemical CAT required for use in engines that had coolant in the oil. After the repair is made. It prevented the bearings from being damaged down the road due to a chemical reaction with the glycol and tin/lead bearing construction. I can not find the name of it.
To answer your question about the bolt behind the oil cooler, I am a firm believer that engineers will do anything they can to make our job harder. If there are any engineers out there I couldn’t help it😁
The engines are assembled along before they go into the chassis that's why they give you a flat rate to do things cuz some guys work faster and if you speed up your video You're the fast guy
cavitation is a physical process. Not chemical. In many engines, It's caused by piston movement in the cylinder and its rocking motion, the vibrations induced are very high-frequency which leads to an ultra-sonic like cavitation effect.
I have a 3306 in a dump truck 98 lt9513 Ford I have air pressure in my tank. It pushes about a gallon out every couple of days. Already know it's NOT the compressor
I know many people who won't start a piece of equipment without checking oil and will never run over 200 hours on an oil change, but if I drain coolant to change a water pump the coolant looks like it hasn't been changed since new. I Have seen way more engines destroyed to bad coolant than bad oil. Most oil theses days can run 500 hours if you want without problems.
I have not seen cavitation erosion on a 13 liter yet, wow. Seen lots of brown coolant from a faulty or low psi radiator cap. Back in the day when a piston seized into the liner and the engine was locked up. We would have to drill a hole in the piston and thread it. put a bolt and a chain and hook it to the crane, thus the first cylinder pack puller. Then when they did come out with the cylinder pack puller, did not have the plate to the block. Had a eye lit and again you hooked it to the hoist. I have lifted the wheels off the ground on one. On our plate we added about one inch to the legs against the block so on the 15 liter engines. The liner completely clears the lower deck. If I recall over 55% of all engine failures are cooling system related.
@@AdeptApe Hard to say, rebuilt, 1693, 1674, 3208, 3208T, 3306, 3306B, 3406A, PC, DI's, 3406B' C', PEEC, 3406E, 3176, 3176B, C13, C12, C10, C-15, C16, 3408 PC, DI. Have to remember I started in 1980 and PC's for trucks was stopped in 1979. Did warranty work on the 1600 series. When I hired in the boss gave all the good job's to his buddies. I got the rear seals, bottom end job's and pulling engines. They are all now gone and I am still around. And if you want to go nuclear try and pull a water pump off a 1693 in the frame. You got bolts a shot gun can't hit. When the brown coolant first hit, mostly in PB. They tried all kinds of stuff before they realized what was causing it. Plus I have a excellent memory. I can rattle off part numbers and sometimes when I am in parts. They ask a for a part number and over half the time I don't have to look it up. (Common items). Did a lot of rerating mechanical engine's when you only had a book or micro fiche. So that was my era and I am winding down and you are now in your era to carry on. Trying to keep the yellow on the highway. As you well know truck drivers will come to your shop no matter how far away for excellent work. I am hard nose, but I fix it the best way I can unless I am told not to. Seen a lot of sloppy work as well as you have and it burns me up, because they think it's the engine.
That's pretty interesting stuff, I've never touched a 1693 and only done limited with mechanical engines. I do have a 3208 in the shop now I'm doing the pump on, unfortunately just a reman swap, I wanted to go through it. I'm glad people like you exist that stay in the shop instead of jumping into an office job. I tried the office job route for a year and came back to the shop.
@@AdeptApe Even though it's a reman you will still have to set the rack and such on it. Make sure it has the valve put in the governor hsg which helps on sucking air. TEN article on it, reman should have it installed already. On these pumps what is hard to do is adjusting each lever for injection pump, crossover lever and when you pull the FT pump off the thrust sleeve can fall out. I take the governor off and made a plate to keep the camshaft thrust-ed forward to prevent it from sliding back and falling out. Had one apart last year pumps was froze up from setting. Replaced all pumps, reseal governor and FTP. Since it is a reman, take it apart and look what's inside. On every one you take the governor off, you have a lever that bolts to the shaft. Every one cracks between the bolt holes, only replace if it really looks bad. I have ran the engine with the top off the pump and if you ever R and I a injection pump. Before you torque the bushing. move the rack up and down several times to make sure pump is seated. Have seen them snap and engine gets cranked, they like to run away. Then you will get to have your own destruction of the week video. I was in the office for four to five years. Had a bad boss and had to get out or quit.
I was running the shop for a construction company and we had leased a bunch of Komatsu equipment, Kumatsu sent over some of their engineers that designed said equipment from Japan to see how they were holding up. I wanted to go and start kicking them in the shins for busting my hands but I was outnumbered.
1:00, i’ve never seen them on inside before but, at the shop I work at now we don’t tear down the engines. I’ve always told operators that they should maintain there cooling system, and he always say “it’ll be fine”,until they have to do an in frame. In the end, it’s their dime.
@@chriswatts2096 well in my experience. You can spend a little bit now or a lot later. It’s kind a like saving for your retirement. You will always end up with lots in the end one dime at a time.
I never get the links for the tools. What am I missing? These are the best videos on UA-cam,thank you. Also my C 12 is in for an in frame right now, the mechanic says the cam is toast. Would this cause a significant loss of pulling power? Will an after market exhaust manifold really increase HP up to 32 more as they claim it will? I’m asking because this truck can’t seem to pull a hill for beans and I need all the help I can get.
If the turbo, fuel psi, etc all checks out and still can't find a low power issue. Cat dealers (some) offers a PAR run and will measure fuel rate and other items to see how well the engine is doing and also a estimated guess on what the wheel horse power should be. If nothing obvious is found, just fuel rate a little low . Cat can adjust it legally and on some engine they will do a max out for 100.00 dollars more. PAR runs are not cheap and few dealers still offers them. Takes about all day long if the factory has to be involved. Been doing them since 1983 and have fixed a lot of complaints.
Wet sleeve/liner cavitation is a problem caused by poor coolant maintenance, whereby air bubble implosions within the coolant remove a protective coating from the exterior of the sleeve/liner. The combustion process causes the liner to oscillate (expand and contract) on the thrust side of the piston creating an area of low pressure which cause air bubbles to come out of the coolant following the contraction period. After contraction, the sleeve/liner then expands into the air bubbles causing the air bubbles to implode creating a shock wave of approximately 60k psi against the side of the sleeve/liner, continually removing small amounts of sleeve/liner material. Eventually, the liner wall becomes perforated, allowing coolant to enter the combustion chamber causing catastrophic failure.
Electrolysis is the destruction of metal parts in contact with an acidic coolant when stray electrical currents find their way between two dissimilar metals.
This video was a fine example, as Josh stated, of a cavitation issue precipitated by old neglected coolant performing its destructive effects.
That’s a supremely fire analysis, thank you! 60k PSI what the hell... a .45 calibre round produces around 50k PSI. My mind is absolutely blown, though it really shouldn’t be.
😨
@Random - No. Coolant pressure is determined by engine configuration, which is a lot to explain.
Well said!
Holy smokes, I love these kind of nerdy details. They stick with me for some reason. Please do more or make some vids! New diesel tech here came over from automotive and small equipment
Equipment design engineers should be made to assemble and disassemble every component they design after it has been installed in a completed assembly. With hand tools.
You didnt mention the build designers? Who would know? :)
Indeed, 90% of new automotive designs are simply to give the appearance to the uninformed of an improvement.
The journeyman training me says this every week like clockwork! Annnnnd it’s 100% true
And not on an engine stand with everything easy to get at.
The CEO and board of investors is who needs to be targeted with this idea. They make the decisions. In an actual democracy, we could make this happen. In an actual democracy, decent people would decide such things as a society whole. That isn't capitalism though.
I worked for Loctite back in the 90's. We had an interesting case of cavitation erosion on Isuzu truck engines. These engines used a dry sleeve, and they were suffering from cavitation erosion into the block, which then allowed coolant to migrate down between sleeve and block. They were in a similar locale to your erosion. It was caused by micro porosity in the cast iron block.
As the coolant traveled around through the passages, it picked up speed as it turned the corner around the bend and dropped pressure in a way similar to air passing over an aircraft wing. The resultant pressure drop and the small cavitation 'explosions' picked away at the micro porosity and eventuated in a leak.
Initially the Isuzu engineers repaired the castings with a welding process, then re machined the block and inserted new liners. This was an expensive process. We trialed the Loctite Impregnation process on the block, which sealed up the porosity with no need to weld and re machine. It was successful. Saved Isuzu a lot of time and money. Eventually I believe they retooled the casting and eliminated the problem. If this is a common issue on your engines, maybe the LIS process could be used on the liners??
man wow why isuzu send engines to you to repair why they dont do it themselves
Awesome and interesting write up!
Excellent comment, it's interesting to hear that the Loctite process worked. Fascinating.
@@henrycoldrain8151because LocTite was using those for research.
I'm not a diesel mechanic but watching and listening helps me to understand the mechanics behind the machine. Thank you for helping me understand better..
I’ve been enjoying the content for years so keep up the good work boss.
The last time I spotted something like that was on an old forklift a guy wanted me to do the engine head work on. I told him based on the condition of the cylinder walls, it might be best to do a full rebuild. He didn't want to do that... I managed to piece it back together, but customers like that inadvertently give technicians a bad name because they blame us for their negligence once the vehicle has a catastrophic failure... 😒
Your exactly right, I was a field svc tech for material handling equipment, they would say oh just replace the hose that’s leaking, I said when I do that the old lines will start to go. Oh no just the one. My pager went off before I got back to the shop, oh they said you left with the truck still leaking. I said, uh no. I told em, they declined, fuck it I’m out. But don’t you know they lied and said I never told them that ? BS just all a part of it. That and mgmt that want you to bill hours no matter what. Portal to portal, so as soon as I jump in my van they are getting billed. I had so many people tell me oh we aren’t paying that, I’d say here’s the number to office, have a great one. It’s not for thin skinned people I’ll tell ya that. Most of us were ex military, coincidence, not likely lol.
❤👏
Shoulda welded it shut
Sometimes you gotta know when to walk away & not even get involved with something or someone like that. I have a not-so-nice reputation around here locally among the dead-beats like you describe. But those who listen to my diagnosis & follow what i say treat me like a saint. Their stuff runs reliably as a result. I'm all for saving a buck but not when it's a basket case that's gonna turn into a quagmire.
Down with dead-beats!
@@acemobile9806 Unfortunately, it all boils down to ignorant and broke customers who are trying to get by.
Liner cavitation is usually caused by the “flex” of the liner under cylinder pressure. Or rather, by the rapid venting of that pressure. The liner snaps back to unexpanded size and the coolant immediately next to it sees a small but intense pressure wave that drastically lowers local boiling point. The coolant spot boils and the bubbles collapse when it converts back to liquid, releasing a small shock wave that is high enough in temperature and pressure to erode metal.
A mid-stop liner design is much stiffer and that’s why you almost never hear of cavitation on competing designs using mid stop liners.
Excellent description.
Bolts like that are the reason engineers and mechanics can't be friends!!!
The assembles engine with those bolts, then is installed and the engineers job is done, not their problem now!
We used to call them "motor mites". Little mites that would eat holes in the liners.
People just laught at me when i say maintain your cooling system, use the correct coolant, use the correct additives!
They be like "eeh cavitation? never heard of it, I doubt it's a thing really"
Thank you for this video :)
not sure what I appreciate more, learning about the mechanics of engines or the top quality investigations into problems? I work in a refinery, cavitation is a common thing we have here on most of our process equipment. The metallurgical findings dealing with equipment failures are fascinating. Possessing Sherlock Holmes type mentality and persistence is such a high quality skill to have. Keep up the good work Ape man.
Thank you sir.
@@AdeptApe why do you call yourself an ape?
@@Mark_Tschetter Evolution.
When taking off an old manifold, loosen each bolt but then do it back up, repeat until all have been done, then take all the bolts out.
If you take all the bolts out bar one, it can be a bugger to get out.
Reading this made me remember my dad telling me the same thing about 30 years ago (I was about 10). Wow, that's a trip.
One mechanic showed you can check the amt. of Electrolysis using a multi meter, set on milli-volts.
The action of the electrolysis creates a voltage, and over a certain amt. it needs to be changed. Scotty Kilmer has a vid on that. Quick and easy check.
That’s crazy I’ve heard this can happen but never seen it until now
I once was repairing a very old locomotive with an inline 6 cylinder diesel. The cylinder I pulled out was about 5/8 of an inch and the cavitation was about 1/2 inch deep. Down both sides. I don't know how much longer that engine lasted. Locomotives just run water for coolant with boron added for rust protection. If we have to shut them down in the winter they are drained.
My guess would be that oil cooler bolt is probably in a decent place when the engine is out of the frame. Engineered for ease of assembly on the production line, serviceability not so much.
I know that many of the folks here have big trucks or maybe generating equipment, but I have a 2004 Motorhome with a C7. I bought it used with 24,000 miles on it 3 years ago. Being in the RV business (service manager) myself I cannot reiterate how important the coolant is in a diesel. Josh has again hit it out of the park (baseball reference). During the very first trip we took in the RV there were coolant issues. First the surge tank split (was made out of a poly material) and had to be replaced. Then I noticed on the return trip that the engine seemed to run a bit warmer than normal. So I took it to a diesel service center and had the coolant drained, including the block, and fully flushed with fresh clean water. Then added the proper antifreeze mixture. Additionally I found that the radiator was partially blocked at the bottom so had that power washed clean as well. Now with proper rpm and torque management I can maintain the coolant temperatures. Most importantly during every oil change, which for me is once a year and after about 3000 miles, the coolant is checked and analyzed for the proper additive concentrations. So very important to do. Again thank you Josh for showing us the damage that can be done by coolant.
Thank you for the very detailed and well written comment, as always.
You are the king my friend.
Cooling system treatment & testing every 15,000 miles. The P H needs to be between 3 & 6 & on cylinder liners it's called pining.
Case IH iron gard penetrating oil is a good penetrating oil. We even had a representative from another oil company demonstrating their oils and he even admitted the Case iron gard was better than what they have.
Oh hell that’s an old green ant freeze electrolysis problem that used to be what happen when you didn’t keep up with the sca in the old green anti freeze
Are you sure? I am VERY interested in the specific cause and cost-effective means of prevention. What are the best protective coolant additives now to use instead of changing coolant? stores don't seem to carry coolant corrosion inhibitor anymore, though ebay still has the old school stuff. Can any additive inhibit cavitation?
@@alan6832 RMI 25 works wonders.
@@alan6832 u can get the stuff at advance for like $10 and it works great
The old adage of pay it now or pay it later comes to mind when being cheap on servicing your engine. This is not Brick and Scrap iron engine and can cost you $30,000 or more to fix correctly.
I had a Volvo engine in a L90B loader that had compression in the cooling system, it ended being the tip broke off the injector cup. That ended up being an easy fix, well relatively but I can see you have a lot of work ahead of you on this one. Good luck and you produce great videos.
This is why I never run anything on less than 70% antifreeze. There is no case for even 50/50. Even in summer in Texas you will never overheat with 70/30 (antifreeze/water).
I recommend always taking the difficult hard to reach bolts out FIRST. so as to be able to hand loosen it after you break bolt or screw loose, then getting tools out the ways. Now the parts won't be hanging making finger loosening almost impossible.
Yes, I bet the owner thought he'd save some money, and not change the coolant filter, as should be done.
Best wishes all.
This can happen to any Diesel engine/cavitation. It’s mostly a big issue with the 7.3 idi’s that people often overlook that’s very important.
I had 7.3s in a bunch of School buses.
Had this happen to a few of them.
Non sleeve engine. Block was junk after this happened.
Good job and good eye too. The downside to finding out these problems, it doesn't always make the customer happy, so it's almost like Catch-22 I suppose. Thanks for sharing your findings. 👍
👍
For those who don't know. Cavitation erosion is not electrolysis
Hate to think...but many mechanics would have have just put a head gasket on thinking that was all there was to it..Your good observation definitely paid off.
They sell an electrolysis additive for those brands that do have that problem.
The best impact that works you paid for and doesnt give up whether it be blue red or bleeding cash off the truck
Snap-On has the only air ratchet I'm willing to use- I can't remember what they call it, but it binds itself if it starts to try and eat your hand. Every other one I've had smashes the bejeezus out of your hand.
I may have to look into that hammer-head again though. IR makes good stuff (my 3/8 TiMax is going on 11 years old, near daily use)
have writ about that many times...Coolant cavitation is a serious problem ever since wet sleeve engines debuted with 3306, 3406, 407, back in earlier nineties...Always run coolant conditioner determined by a coolant test kit...Coolant condition is ever bit as important to engine life as engine oil...not complicated at all, antifreeze doesn't wear out, conditioner wears out...We quit changing antifreeze 35 years ago, we tested with a Caterpillar coolant test kit and added purple colored Naacool coolant conditioner, Caterpillar dealer sold at the time...When we needed to change coolant heater in an engine the inside of the block was just as clean as the outside...We had conditioner problem one time with low liners in an old D7 17A 18692 engine...So, we learned out lesson, the mechanics at my local dealer told me about my mistake and how to remedy in the future...So we began testing/replacing coolant conditioner in other engines as well...Even the gas engines/pickups cars etc...Neighbors had changed their pickups over to water only coolant during the hot summer that year, later had freeze plugs rusting out...What a job to change those out!
So when we needed to change over to water, in order for engine to run cooler during a hot summer, we added Naacool according to the test kit...We never lost a freeze plug except for once in a 68 Plymouth Sport Fury...I changed the one freeze plug that leaked, and ran conditioner after that=no more trouble...I can't prove it but strong believe it helped water pumps last longer as well...We never let coolant turn brown any more, really haven't had a problem with turning brown after using the test kit and conditioner as needed..
812 385 9036 if want to discuss further, email is rockndirt@sit-co.net..
Am on a farm North of Evansville, Indiana..
There are some wrong advice given on this forum from additions below, I didn't read the original post past the beginning of how to take an engine apart so I can't speak for that...I know water cools better than water-antifreeze when ambient temperature is high and engine is loaded almost continuous...We never had heating problem with the D7, or D6D, but the 977L had to be completely clean radiator core and water for coolant during heat of the summer...I used coolant conditioner with the distilled water to prevent engine damage, and changed back and forth with antifreeze mixture/conditioner and distilled water/conditioner in May and last week of September...I kept each change in plastic five gallon buckets...Was out only the expense of distilled water and coolant conditioner to keep the 3306 in the 977L running below 190 degrees F...977 radiator is tall and narrow to make room for the loader arms, where the 6 and 7 have square radiators that cool much better...The fan is able to cover more of the radiator, we were able to run antifreeze year around in those tractors...Neighbors had trouble with cavitation in their IH engines early on, we didn't have that problem as we learned out lesson with the low liners of the D7 early on...We had Cat, Case, IH, Mack, Cummins, as well as the gas engines so we bought many quart bottles of Naacool from Caterpillar dealer in Evansville..
Recently I just pulled some liners for the first time out of my semi truck, owner operator.
When you did the Arnold Schwarzenegger part I laughed so hard my back cracked sitting at the dinner table.
Just finished torquing the heads down on my Cummins big Cam so yea my back felt it.
The C13 ones aren't too bad although putting them back in gets sketchy with trying to not hit the seal it drop the rod onto the crankshaft. The C15 ones are way heavier, never done the Cummins packs, but I'm sure they aren't helium filled.
Awesome vid. I been working on trucks for year and half though came from 12 years of cars. It's crazy how more sensitive the trucks are than cars
Pictures worth so much more than words. Thanks.
really appreciate you’re videos they back up preventative maintenance using the proper materials for that engine. i’ve never run into this problem but you have to live and learn. thx again
Its from electrlousis, metal in the coolant acts like a electric motor causes actual electric spark to travel through the liner
You sir have clearly not learnt the difference between electrolysis and cavitation corrosion erosion. This is cavitation corrosion, i have seen it many times on engines rebuilds I have done.
My boss has had coolant leaks for the last 8 months, he has been filling his 60 series Detroit with straight water for that whole time.
He finally got me to fix the leaks, I flushed, changed the coolant and the filter. - It came out that same brownish, orangey color, of course the filter was tightened on so hard the seal looked like a bent in crush washer and the filter was rusted around the top.
I hope he hasn't killed the thing, that's a good motor to feed garbage to.
How many hours or miles re on his 60 series? I have one with 3100hrs and have always wondered how long it takes for liner pitting to be a real risk. I do t have good records of perilous coolant change intervals.
Correct. Cavitation is 1 most over looked problem we face. Not only engines but Hyd systems too. It got fluid you got chance of Cavitation. I always say see a mechanic know it all run the other way.
Who would have thought..... You are mechanic not a guessing part changer.
Yep been there had a 88 T600 3406B blown head gasket broken head bolt pull #6 .1000 away from going threw the liner. Hard lesson on proper PH in the coollent. First inframe.
Awsome! Thanks for sharing your knowledge and experience with us. As a diesel tech myself, I love watching all your videos and seeing what kind of stuff you run into. Keep it up!
Great vid. Love your precise diagnostics an humorous comments! Keep ‘em coming.
Thank you, I'm trying to add a little bit of humor to my videos.
It's works really well :). You keep us learning and laughing at the same time ! What a teacher you are :)
Had a blown head gasket on a bsx this week. Customer failed to drain the oil and allowed it to sit in there for a couple of months before they brought it to us. They decided they were going to do a platinum. But before I did the platinum I suggested to pull the old pan and pull one rod & one main. Found rust on the crankshaft trashed the engine. Got a long block on the way.
Also note. They decided they were going to start the In-frame before they brought it to us. (I work for a kenworth dealer) That’s my headache for this coming week.
Sounds like quite the expensive fix for the customer.
They dropped 17k as a down payment so yes they got a bill 🤣. Thompson is supposed to be delivering me my new engine sometime this coming week.
@@AdeptApe what’s your thoughts on the IVA delete. I hear customers say it all the time and I personally think they’re a DA. I understand it was to reduce NOx emissions but instead of deleting them if you could learn to harness it you can make more power. That’s my thoughts. No telling how many ARD heads I have replaced and IVA oil leaks fixed but beside the point. And single turbo conversions..... People love them 6NZ.....
In the old days theirs a product I even use in my cars cooling system called Pencool 3000 . Way back when it went by the name Nacool 3000 . It was designed to prevent Cummins Worms in wet sleeve engines. I’ve actually seen bigger holes then that in sleeves. The problem arises in the firing impulses in the cylinders and harmonics that create theses shockwaves then the water boils into steam that causes the holes. Pencool was developed to stop this and corrosion in the cooling system,,especially on large Diesel engines cooling systems where water is only used and No Antifreeze is added because we are talking 500 gallons or more capacity systems. Even in these systems on tugboats that I worked on it wasn’t uncommon to pump in one or two 55 gallon drums of Pencool 3000 to get the right mix ratio. I can remember pulling a water jacket cover off of a Caterpillar engine that has been in continuous service for years since the last overhaul and the water jackets where perfectly gray cast iron. So I’ve used Pencool 3000 in all my engines for over 4 decades now and in engines with antifreeze it helps stabilize the antifreeze. In my personal cars I get at least 5 to 10 degrees of hot air out of my cars heater in the winter time with Pencool 3000 .
Very good and easy explanation Mr Ape
I remember when I first encounter cavitation issues on a diesel engine
Back 15 years ago when we start to have new coolant fluids on market n first ting I tougth was we or at least me working with diesel since 1980 never see this issue Wyle on green coolant
What's tougths about this
honestly great channel and great diesel expert , always useful videos , god bless you Mr. Josh
Thank you sir.
Due to the angle of the connecting rod, the piston gets pushed into the side of the cylinder during the power and compression stroke -- this is called side thrust. You can see this by examining cylinder wear, the side taking the major side thrust (power stroke) usually wears faster and shows up as glazing in the middle of the cylinder on that side. This side thrust causes the liner to oscillate back and forth microscopically. As the liner is moving away, it creates a zone of low pressure in the coolant and bubbles of air start to form. These bubbles implode as the pressure increase again caused by the liner moving back to the original spot. The implosion force is measured in tons per square inch (very powerful), and if it happens close enough to the liner wall it can break off a bit of the steel.
Coolant is extremely important because chemicals in the coolant forms a protective layer on surfaces it touches. Cavitation hopefully damages this protective layer. The protective layer is regenerated by draining old coolant and putting in fresh coolant. This is why you need to change coolant every so often, and you should never run straight water in diesel engine (aside from obvious freeze protection).
I always put in additives on my new trucks keep coolant changed as recommended 👌
Had this happen to a 7.3 IDI engine in a Ford pickup. Unfortunately that engine is not sleeved and I had to have it bored and dry sleeved. I'm sure the previous owners didn't run the proper SCAs!
I had a Dodge Caravan with a blown head gasket. I got it from a friend. If you leave coolant in the cylinder for too long, the antifreeze can eat into the cylinder. I was planning on replacing the head gasket and replace it till I found the groove where the antifreeze destroyed the cylinder. I ended up replacing the engine. I have seen snowmobile engines where the nicklecille coating has been boiled off and blistered by antifreeze. If you have a blown head gasket on any engine, that antifreeze will destroy the engine in short order.
A regulated overpressure (positive pressure) will help prevent the forming of caviation or atleast slow it down.
So its vital that the cooling system is able to pressurize in adition to having the right coolant.
the older Detroit 2 stokers were really known for this, you have to run the right coolant and keep it up-to date, shit i even run it in my 7.3 Powerstroke yes i know it is over kill but at 275k i must be doing things right.
7.3 fords had problems with coolant eating the block
@@cooperparts the old 7.3 yes but that got fixed so when the Powerstroke came along things were good. but it still has selves around the injectors, and TBH my truck runs a good 10f cooler with purple in it.
Agree had it happen to a 92 F350 with a 7.3....ended up leaking into the cylinder and hydro locked thought it was a head or head gaskets so xhanged both happened again engine was history
You can still see the cross hatching... and the liners rot from the outside in. Clean coolant is a must!
That coolant looked like it had never been changed.
Exactly. Someone did not do proper scheduled maintenance
@@archiedentone5950 Looked like he topped if off with pure water .. right on schedule for 30 years !
This is prolly from exhaust gases we got it going on with a John Deere engine and u can fill it with antifreeze and water and crank it and in 2 or 3 minutes it looks worse than that
So do you expect other liners to be damaged as well? Awesome to see a good mechanic be a great forensic detective
I expect them to have similar pitting, but not sure until I can remove the other liners.
I learned about this back with the 7.3L power strokes
Talked about it but to actually see it close up was amazing thanks Josh 🇦🇺👍
Going to try and do more videos like this. Just bought a big light assembly today so the shop videos look a little better.
You really show and explain the problem so well. Another great video 👍🏽 Thanks 🇺🇸
As always liked the content ! Always detailed to everything! Keep up the good work !!
I have tried them all and pb blaster is definitely the best penetrating oil. I love the zep brake cleaner, I do not know why it works so much better then any other one I have tried.
I hate air ratchets, too slow and never has enough power to break bolts loose.
Your content is getting better.
Thank you, I've been trying to step it up.
My coolant turned soo acidic that it rotted away everything in the cooling system except for the heater core and a couple hard lines. It ate the cylinder head, intake manifold, plugged the radiator, ate the thermostat housing, the water pipe, the fittings, throttle body, fitv, iac, and finally it ate the aluminum that surrounded the ring lands on the sleeves. I bought it this way and seemed to be the guy that is fixing the car.
Just had to chuckle at you getting that one bolt out. Been there many times myself
Remove oil pan, pressurize radiator and look for leaks around liner. Have somebody slowly rotate because the piston and ring could be covering up holes from cavitation.
Watching this video has me thinking.. my dad's C13 started pushing coolant through the turbos this past summer. We never did take the engine apart to verify, but I'm wondering if something like this happened with the liners to cause that. We ended up just putting a 6NZ in the truck instead of overhauling the C13. I believe that C13 had 1.2 million miles on it. His coolant, however, was still in great shape, unlike the motor in this video.
If you read this, I have a question! Are air compressors interchangeable between the C13 and a C-12? My air compressor is showing signs of letting oil slip past the piston rings, and the compressor on that C13 is very new.. we are looking to just use that one if we can instead of dropping a bunch of money on a new one.
When i bought my diesel ford 7.3 idi I seen the coolant was nice and green but I knew about the cavitation problems they can have I never checked the coolant with a test strip to see how good or bad the additives were i added a bottle of it in to be in the safe side but i wonder if i should buy some test strips and check it only thing i seen in the coolant was a couple of chunks of orange rtv from a bad radiator cap which i put a new one on. I don't normally drive it in the winter so it sits pretty much those 3 months till its nice again.
Yep. Keep that red ELC HOAT/OAT maintenance up. 👍🏻
We had a c13 where the water pump went bad and was leaking coolant into oil system ,crew kept running it for over a month easy, Got to the shop they wanted the water pump fixed so I replaced and checked for leaks , no more coolant leak , found low oil pressure after 30 min idle, so checked the pressure switch then replaced and during inspection I found bad torque arm bushings , replaced and the day I go to pull it out of bay it starts to knock, manager tried saying I put gasoline in filters because the blow by smelt like burned gas 🙄 this place is crazy
Bottom line is follow manufacture PM schedule and this probably would not have happened.
Had to rebuild my n14 for this exact reason. If it weren't for this i could have gotten a few hundred thousand more miles out of it as everything else was in great shape. 😕
monitoring coolant quality has always been a big deal in any big diesel with wet liners. Easy to neglect for a lot of owners.
how you maintain it good ?
i have detroit s60 on my trucks
do you just change it frequently or add additives or what ?
@@zaidchalabi1599 i tin u test it ;or git a coolant recycler two check it
@@enzoorciuoli328 what did you just write ? english? cant understand a word!
git a coolant tester or check dee udder comments onna tessin it
I also remember on cat c15 n 3406b not in cyl walls but in engine block cav issues somobody on a cat dealer to recommended filled with epoxy n I did
Even when I doubt would last
It did work specially on areas near cyl walls
I worked for Ohio Machinery/Ohio CAT as field service tech and remember a chemical CAT required for use in engines that had coolant in the oil. After the repair is made. It prevented the bearings from being damaged down the road due to a chemical reaction with the glycol and tin/lead bearing construction. I can not find the name of it.
Always learning some thing new and awesome when watching your videos 👍
Great video.Never think that coolant can do this......Interesting.
visual inspection wins again . thank you sir for sharing.
Wow! If it was someone else doing this job im sure they wouldn't have noticed
"Well there's your problem lady" to paraphrase another channel. it has "coolant killer"
To answer your question about the bolt behind the oil cooler, I am a firm believer that engineers will do anything they can to make our job harder. If there are any engineers out there I couldn’t help it😁
My thought is a engineer came home and found his wife in bed with a mechanic. So they all got together and made our life miserable.
The engines are assembled along before they go into the chassis that's why they give you a flat rate to do things cuz some guys work faster and if you speed up your video You're the fast guy
Man i know its not diesel but i could use your expertise badly on my 1975 f600 330 bigblock
cavitation is a physical process. Not chemical. In many engines, It's caused by piston movement in the cylinder and its rocking motion, the vibrations induced are very high-frequency which leads to an ultra-sonic like cavitation effect.
I have a 3306 in a dump truck 98 lt9513 Ford I have air pressure in my tank. It pushes about a gallon out every couple of days. Already know it's NOT the compressor
The 7.3 international's are notorious for this. Not the powerstroke but the older 7.3.
I know many people who won't start a piece of equipment without checking oil and will never run over 200 hours on an oil change, but if I drain coolant to change a water pump the coolant looks like it hasn't been changed since new. I Have seen way more engines destroyed to bad coolant than bad oil. Most oil theses days can run 500 hours if you want without problems.
I have not seen cavitation erosion on a 13 liter yet, wow. Seen lots of brown coolant from a faulty or low psi radiator cap. Back in the day when a piston seized into the liner and the engine was locked up. We would have to drill a hole in the piston and thread it. put a bolt and a chain and hook it to the crane, thus the first cylinder pack puller. Then when they did come out with the cylinder pack puller, did not have the plate to the block. Had a eye lit and again you hooked it to the hoist. I have lifted the wheels off the ground on one. On our plate we added about one inch to the legs against the block so on the 15 liter engines. The liner completely clears the lower deck.
If I recall over 55% of all engine failures are cooling system related.
How many Cat engines you reckon you've built John? You have more stories about them than anyone I've ever talked to.
@@AdeptApe Hard to say, rebuilt, 1693, 1674, 3208, 3208T, 3306, 3306B, 3406A, PC, DI's, 3406B' C', PEEC, 3406E, 3176, 3176B, C13, C12, C10, C-15, C16, 3408 PC, DI. Have to remember I started in 1980 and PC's for trucks was stopped in 1979. Did warranty work on the 1600 series.
When I hired in the boss gave all the good job's to his buddies. I got the rear seals, bottom end job's and pulling engines. They are all now gone and I am still around.
And if you want to go nuclear try and pull a water pump off a 1693 in the frame. You got bolts a shot gun can't hit.
When the brown coolant first hit, mostly in PB. They tried all kinds of stuff before they realized what was causing it. Plus I have a excellent memory. I can rattle off part numbers and sometimes when I am in parts. They ask a for a part number and over half the time I don't have to look it up. (Common items). Did a lot of rerating mechanical engine's when you only had a book or micro fiche. So that was my era and I am winding down and you are now in your era to carry on. Trying to keep the yellow on the highway. As you well know truck drivers will come to your shop no matter how far away for excellent work.
I am hard nose, but I fix it the best way I can unless I am told not to. Seen a lot of sloppy work as well as you have and it burns me up, because they think it's the engine.
That's pretty interesting stuff, I've never touched a 1693 and only done limited with mechanical engines. I do have a 3208 in the shop now I'm doing the pump on, unfortunately just a reman swap, I wanted to go through it. I'm glad people like you exist that stay in the shop instead of jumping into an office job. I tried the office job route for a year and came back to the shop.
@@AdeptApe Even though it's a reman you will still have to set the rack and such on it. Make sure it has the valve put in the governor hsg which helps on sucking air. TEN article on it, reman should have it installed already. On these pumps what is hard to do is adjusting each lever for injection pump, crossover lever and when you pull the FT pump off the thrust sleeve can fall out. I take the governor off and made a plate to keep the camshaft thrust-ed forward to prevent it from sliding back and falling out. Had one apart last year pumps was froze up from setting. Replaced all pumps, reseal governor and FTP. Since it is a reman, take it apart and look what's inside. On every one you take the governor off, you have a lever that bolts to the shaft. Every one cracks between the bolt holes, only replace if it really looks bad. I have ran the engine with the top off the pump and if you ever R and I a injection pump. Before you torque the bushing. move the rack up and down several times to make sure pump is seated. Have seen them snap and engine gets cranked, they like to run away. Then you will get to have your own destruction of the week video.
I was in the office for four to five years. Had a bad boss and had to get out or quit.
Thank you for the advice. I always have the filter housing off and my safety clipboard ready for any unexpected increases in RPM, just in case.
Cavitation can be caused by vibrations in the cylinder liners as well. Micro vibrations can kill.
As always, great detail!
I was running the shop for a construction company and we had leased a bunch of Komatsu equipment, Kumatsu sent over some of their engineers that designed said equipment from Japan to see how they were holding up. I wanted to go and start kicking them in the shins for busting my hands but I was outnumbered.
Impurities in the metal when the liner was cast can do this
1:00, i’ve never seen them on inside before but, at the shop I work at now we don’t tear down the engines. I’ve always told operators that they should maintain there cooling system, and he always say “it’ll be fine”,until they have to do an in frame. In the end, it’s their dime.
Wish it was only a dime. Lol
@@chriswatts2096 well in my experience. You can spend a little bit now or a lot later. It’s kind a like saving for your retirement. You will always end up with lots in the end one dime at a time.
Can you do a video on how to check our tire alignment at home and what we can do to adjust accordingly?
NAPA HD coolant is the best for Diesel engines & it contains Nitrite For Wet Sleeve Liner Cavitation Protection
Great videos, I've used a few of them for shop manuals.
Ruston rk’s that I look after are a nightmare for this
Hi ,do you mean old coolant destroy the engine? Tq
I never get the links for the tools. What am I missing? These are the best videos on UA-cam,thank you. Also my C 12 is in for an in frame right now, the mechanic says the cam is toast. Would this cause a significant loss of pulling power? Will an after market exhaust manifold really increase HP up to 32 more as they claim it will? I’m asking because this truck can’t seem to pull a hill for beans and I need all the help I can get.
The links are in the video description if you wanted them. Just a way to help out the channel if you are shopping anyway.
If the turbo, fuel psi, etc all checks out and still can't find a low power issue. Cat dealers (some) offers a PAR run and will measure fuel rate and other items to see how well the engine is doing and also a estimated guess on what the wheel horse power should be. If nothing obvious is found, just fuel rate a little low . Cat can adjust it legally and on some engine they will do a max out for 100.00 dollars more. PAR runs are not cheap and few dealers still offers them. Takes about all day long if the factory has to be involved.
Been doing them since 1983 and have fixed a lot of complaints.