Cable Management So Good, It's Illegal - DIYson Lamp Build Log #6
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- Опубліковано 17 жов 2022
- This build log is a real drag. Find out how I interpreted the ingenious (and legally protected) wiring solution used by the Dyson Lightcycle, and then modified it into my own design. If I can pull this off, I'll be ready to move on to adding some real electronics to this lamp. One major step closer to a V1 release :)
Original parametric drag chain design: www.printables.com/model/4034...
Current project files repository and parts list: github.com/stevenbennett/DIYson
My favorite filament: amzn.to/3j5RVws
Subscribe to the channel: / @stevenbennettmakes - Наука та технологія
Wow. Thank you to everyone for the thoughtful comments, and welcome to new subscribers! I am overwhelmed with the positive response this project has gotten lately, thank you so much for following along and sharing your ideas and support. I'm so glad to have you as collaborators on this project.
It's been over a month since the last video so I wanted to assure you that the next one is in the works. I've encountered some delays, but I think the final product will be worth the wait. I'll post some process photos for subscribers in the coming days :)
This is a great project and I can't wait to make one myself!
Maybe clock spring in the base that will tension wire?
Steven, amazing project, I love the absolute dedication to not only making a functional design, but revising all design choices in order to keep it as sterile and true to the original 600 USD lamp design. I will start following through soon to start making the lamp.
Quick questions, Is it possible, and sounds good to you, to create a Discord community for this project where other models could be shared and discussed by the community? Also, could you please provide .f3d files for the carriages in the repository?
Yet again, amazing project and thank you!
@@felipegutierrez2193 Thanks Felipe! I've been considering making a Discord server for that exact purpose. Glad to hear you'd find that valuable, I'll keep you posted. Uploading the carriage file now :)
@@StevenBennettMakes a discord server would definitely be cool
I'm not an attorney, but I don't think it's illegal to DIY replicate patents or describe them? Just can't commercialize right? Google seems to agree w/ that.
Awesome project btw
You may be right! I like to err on the side of caution with this stuff, based on what I can tell it seem like I'm in the clear. Thanks for checking out the project :)
@@StevenBennettMakes I have a CNC mill, wouldn't mind helping make an aluminum version of the Carriage
That would be so cool! I'd be curious to hear your thoughts on whether the thing is machinable at all. Feel free to check out the .step file in the Github repository and see what you think. Let me know if you think you're going to make one and you want any modifications. I'd want to replace the existing heat-press-insert holes with tapped holes and I could make that update for anyone that is willing to machine it.
@@StevenBennettMakes Yeah I checked it out. There is only one major problem, the sharp inside corners on the small hole in the middle, and yeah def would want to just do tapped holes, I use a thread mill. The arms sticking out might make it slightly tricky to hold in a vise for a 2nd op in a 3 axis machine, but I have a 5 axis machine and would use a window method. I haven't studied your vids closely enough to know for sure what each feature is for, but if you give me a STEP and a list of what you want tapped/etc I can give it a go. I'm not a pro, but I think this is w/in my skill level. I'll see if I can DM you my email or something.
My man, this popped up on my recommended and I'm glad I watched! I *SO* appreciate your tenacity and follow-through!
I was about to make a joke about this video being "illuminating" ( heh ) but really... this is fantastic! You've got a new subscriber.
Thanks for posting in your feed CrafsMan! Loving this…
A linear equivalent of a slip ring would be a cleaner way to get power between the arms and the carriage. You'd only need one conductor run down the middle of the slots that face the carriage, then use the aluminium arms themselves as a ground.
Edit: think of the carriage as a slot car, and the extrusion as the track!!
Exactly, using one of those carbon conductor thingies found in a drill
@@ahmadhasan3258 no, I think carbon brushes would leave an unsightly mark on the arm. You would have to use a sprung copper contact.
Excellent thought about using the aluminum as a conductor. It would be tough to have a sliding contact on it though: If the aluminum, was anodized, the surface would be insulating. If it’s non-anodized, anything dragging on it would leave ugly marks over time.
I do like the idea of siding contacts though. You could use some of the nickel strip they use for building battery packs, with some double-sided tape holding it down in the channels of the aluminum, which would also keep it insulated from the surroundings. Then just more nickel or perhaps some beryllium copper for the brushes.
@@DEtchells good point re anodising and oxidation. You could copper plate the aluminium parts. Would provide improved conductivity too.
Thought about same thing. Some time ago even had one lamp that has both wires as the non isolated parts of the casing - found that when accidentally shortcutted them)). Metal bearings work fine for conduct small amount of current (but not fine if it is 200A roller welding machine)). So, there need one complect of electric brushes of some kind to feed this device.
congratulations, you've been chosen by the all-seeing algorithm
Someone already mentioned using a sliding contact with copper tape down below. Alternatively, you could print small spacers to hold 2 bare copper wires separated within the extrusion slot, then use spring loaded graphite to transfer between segments. This is very similar to how brushed motors work
Or you could use a battery powered light
The addition of the drag chain in your design absolutely sends this project over the moon for me. I love everything about this aesthetic. Sleek and industrial. It looks like if Kuka Robotics made a lamp. I’m definitely going to add this lamp to my growing future projects list.
As dragchain you should look at Tape measures. They have a very neat curve to them when moved back and forth - see "MPCNC tape measure trick" for more info.
I use them all over my 3d printers and CNC machines
I was skimming the comments to see if this had been suggested yet - good idea!
Or you could have a battery powered light
The way I immediately thought of a completely different solution. As soon as you describe the problem at the beginning of this video is awesome.
ive been wanting this lamp for years but not willing to dish out $600 for such a simple and basic lamp. I thought since it was so simple there has to be someone on the internet that made it themselves, right?? no. Ive been searching litteraly for years and gave up eventually. I took architecture my previous year of HS and i was like omg that dyson lamp would be so nice to have right now so i really wanted to make my own and i still couldnt find anyone on youtube who made it and was too lazy to design my own. I also recently found an almost perfect 3d printer in the trash and fixed it up so hopefully I can finally follow along and have my own dyson lamp for cheaper lol. It makes me really happy to see you make your own as its surprising how rare it is to see people talking about this lamp now and im excited to follow :)
Hey Omar! Glad to have you following along. I had the same thought going into this project, it's looking more and more likely that we can make an affordable DIY alternative. I've also developed a new-found appreciation for the impressive engineering involved in creating the original Dyson, so I hope that comes through in the videos. I look forward to seeing your version of the DIYson someday :)
Thanks to youtube recomendations for making me discover this channel
Just binged your channel and I absolutely love it! Regarding wiring from base to vertical profile, I really think you should pursuit to replicate the 360 rotating feature. This could be done by using an off the shelf slip joint or try to make a pcb in the base with two rings with power and then pogo pins on the bottom of the vertical profile and from there to the lamp. Also regarding the flat cables - they looked really awesome. 3d print a jig with two razor blades and you could easily make it fit. You can dye the cable with iDye Poly - it will dye any kind of plastic, I use it a lot. Lastly I really really hope you'll use USB-C powering instead of those old barrel jacks 🙂
Very nice lamp design. I may have to make one for myself. One thing I would do different regarding the cable management is instead of using a drag chain, I'd use sticky back copper tape (used in making stained glass windows) inside the grooves of the 2020 extrusion with a layer of Kapton tape between it and the aluminum to act as an insulator. A copper wiper or metal ball bearing would act as the pickup to pass the current along. This should be perfectly safe as we're talking low voltage (12VDC?) anyway. If the 2020 extrusion does not have any anodizing on it then it itself could be used as one side of the circuit.
Awesome idea. I really hope you end up making one, I'd like to see you that solution in practice!
I agree - for a low voltage solution, eliminating the wire altogether seems like the best approach, though i don't immediately know what complications might make it unreasonable. I was thinking the conductors could easily be hidden behind a little cap that only had a thin slot to allow a small strut to reach in and contact the conductors with spring loaded wipers or some other mechanism. That would completely eliminate the possibility of any little fingers getting in there.
I would also like to try building one, but i have a million other woodworking and electronic projects on my list, so this would be pretty low priority.
Dude you should have much more subscribers with your amount of dedication and video quality. Well done, looking forward too the next episode!
Aw thanks for that, and thanks for watching! Working on the next one already :)
Totally agree!
Same here
And he got 1 more ;)
@@Cypher916 Woohoo! Thanks, Oscar :)
I think he said 60 subscribers... You're absolutely right!
Now It's more like 960 - 1 month later... Well done!
Looking forward to getting notified about what's to come in the next episode :ø)
Thank you for bringing us on this journey with you. I loved hearing your thought process, the various decisions you made, your own critique on prior versions, etc. It really highlights how minimal designs, often described as “simple”, can be very complex. What we don’t see as end consumers are all the thousands of hours and decisions that were made by entire teams to make a product come to market…most of which are transparent or quickly overlooked by consumers. Watching your video series gave a glimpse into that process and, speaking for myself at least, was super informative and entertaining.
As consumers of your videos, it’d be easy to ask for more projects like this, just as easy as it would be to first look at the Dyson and say, “Pssh, that’s easy. Anyone can do that!” Your videos themselves are another glimpse at the attention to detail you gave to the b-roll your shot, to the music and level to play it at. Great work!
I hope we get a chance to see how you design, decide and produce other projects in the future, and look forward to the last video in this series. Thanks again!
Wow thank you so much. It's so encouraging to hear that this is your reaction because this is exactly what I'm going for. Hoping to share a few other projects once the DIYson is "complete" :)
@@StevenBennettMakes looking forward to it and thanks again!
I really enjoy watching you iterate and bring forward a project! Super cool!
You could also try a mechanism that is used for the "retractable USB extension" cables (cable reels on thingiverse), some of them have a well tensioned spring and work very smoothly. You might be able to mod an existing product and reuse the 4-wire USB cable for the original control circuit setup.
I was just about to suggest this, then thought i better read the comments first.
True. I was about to suggest the same. Attaching a miniature, 3d printed version of a cable reel with a 2mm flat ribbon cable, effectively solves the issue of wiring, along with the movement issue for both axis. I haven't 3d modelled anything yet, but def an idea worth chasing ngl. I'd probably use 2, one for each axis. If it could be done using one, I'd be impressed.
Thanks for the suggestion! I definitely considered this early on. Two issues: 1. the "retractable" nature of the reel pulls on the arms because the arm is designed to glide with very little effort (kind of a necessary tradeoff). 2. The cable is much harder to hide when it's reeled vs when it's lying flat in a single layer. Still might be possible, but those are the constraints that stopped me from pursuing this :)
Well...thanks for that...here I was living blissfully unaware of that particular dyson thing of beauty...now I need it in my life.
Dude this is brilliant though! So glad the algorithm pointed me towards this!
Awesome work! I'll definitely be following this!
Thanks for this great video, you helped me with a totally unrelated problem I've been trying to solve. I look forward to seeing your other videos.
Your series has been fantastic, and it has taught me a ton. You made it entertaining to watch your design take shape, and at this point, I am convinced it is going to be a marvel!
Aw thank you! Glad you're liking the series
This is a very cool project and i love your carefully considered and systematic design approach.
Thank you very much!
You might consider that Dyson used a sliding contact instead of a cable in both the arms and in the base. generally you need a long copper strip and a sliding contact like you would see in a DC brush motor.
I was also going to suggest that, and maybe some capacitors to prevent any "flickering" while moving the arm
Once again, thanks to the all mighty algorithm leading me to this one. Exited for the next part already :)
wow amazing, subscribed!!
Can't wait to build this
These are the exact type of engineering videos I want to start making (already started). Really like your design and the way you presented your ideas and work. Earned a sub
Omg I've been loving this lamp for so many years and always dreamed of building one myself! What a nice thing to see you make it become reality
You actually can very easily buy the 3d printer parts and buy a battery powered light
Print in-place drag chain - what an awesome idea!
😎
Can't wait for more videos!
Love the Braun alarm clock on your desk! Great video
Good eye! Thanks for watching :)
I love this! This is something future me will build. Keep up the wonderful work.
Wonderful work!
this is pretty cool! I'd absollutely love to see and build the final product
Your videos are really enjoyable!
Awesome, brother. 10/10 for tenacious attention to detail. I think I would have abandoned hope after studying Dyson's patent and realizing the scope of the challenge. So, congratulations!
I've first seen this lamp on Dyson's Milano HQ few years back, I always thought the power was transmitted with brush contacts. I love how your take turned out, cable chains really gave it character.
Yea I worked with powered rails for lights, they're actually quiet dangerous with 120V running on exposed wire then I realized that a fucking battery eliminates wires.
Very nice video!
Good job
I am impressed how well Dyson hide the wires
I've been looking forward to this video, thanks for your tremendous work on design, engineering and problem solving, you genuinely deserve many more subscribers
Aw thanks, Jorge! I really appreciate that :)
Great content and quality videography. I look forward to watching your channel grow.
I would recommend using some variant of power rail, at least for the vertical movement of the lamp. The same principle is used in ceiling lamps where you can freely move each individual lamp without breaking contact with the rail.
dude! this is awesome ... cant wait for the final video ... and more, thanks!
Thanks, Roman! I think you will enjoy the next video :)
incredibly cool, good work
Lovely work!
Excellent and perfect use of "penultimate" - rarely done, great job! Oh also, the chain and carriage is awesome too! 😂
amazing job on the videos, i’ve been thinking about trying this myself
I know it might not be exactly the aesthetics you were shooting for compared to the Dyson, but as a guy who builds all sorts of CNCs, I quite love the industrial look! Love your content so far, you deserve more subscribers.
Wow, this is really a great light lamp stand for the lab desk or computer/drawing desk.
I'm very dissapointed with the rail carrier wire management, but that probably was inevitable. Although, very hyped for progress of the project. Glad youtube recommended this - new subscriber. This kind of projects is the main reason why I love youtube:D
"I can't believe I have 60 subscribers, that's so cool" Duuude. I'm sitting here barely 2 and a half months after you published this video and you already have almost 9k. Keep it up and this channel is definitely going places. Congrats!
I can’t believe you only had 60 subscribers when this came out! Great work, and looking forward to seeing whatever projects you take on next.
The algorithm sent me here and I'm not mad. Subbing now, love your work!
Great project. Well done.
With respect to those legal constraints; I am a tech lawyer, and you absolutely have the right to entirely one-on-one replicate Dyson's design for private use. You simply cannot commercially exploit them, which this video does not intend.
So no worries. Dont let the IP-bullies hold you back from tinkering and creating. This is what we need.
Thanks for sharing your informed opinion, definitely appreciate having some reassurance from an expert :)
What a great project and video series👍🏻. Just a thought: we used to have a dining table light with small halogen bulbs in them, but no wires anywhere to be seen. After investigating a bit it turned out that the aluminum casing of the light was actually made out of two parts, insulated with plastic and air in the middle. One side was +, the other side -, thereby deleting the need for wires. This might be a concept to look into for a v2, the number of new challenges would be enormous… but the challenges might be interesting.
Wow very clever! That could totally work in theory, I might not be up to the task personally, but I hope someone picks up this idea and runs with it. This would be a serious upgrade. Thanks for sharing, Kris :)
Sliding electric contacts are well established in electric trains and electric motors. They work remarkably well and reliable. A typical material combination for slip rings is hard brass (CuZn39) in combination with graphite or metal graphite. The graphite acts as a solid lubrificant and makes the motion very smooth. The voltage drop depends on the current density but is typically around 2 - 3 V @ 10 A/cm2 for graphite and 0.1 - 1.5 V @ 10 A/cm2 for metal graphite. I guess with a reasonable contact size this results in an acceptable voltage drop for such a low-voltage (12 - 24 V) application with moderate power requirements (10 - 100 W). To my knowledge, slip rings are also used for operation lamps that require 360° turnability.
I think a sliding electric contact would make a very attractive and simple alternative to the complex cable routing. With a proper implementation, the sliding contact is invisible, compact and as smooth as the wired connection.
I honestly wouldve expected just a bunch of slip rings and stuff. Dyson's solution is way more elegant than what I came up with xd
You've just gained one more subscriber
Keep going 😊
Your video quality is so good. Nice and clean. Keep it up
Thanks Cuong! Glad you're enjoying the videos!
Wow, amazing! You have hooked I need to see more! Thanks for sharing. I would really like to make this sometime so when all is said and done I will be willing to buy the stl files etc...
Hey Steven, I work in a semiconductor fab where we have Automated Material Handling System (AMHS) Monorail cars in the overhead of the factory that pick up and transport the wafers to various points all over the fab using the transportation system. These cars are fully automated and are individually powered by what I believe to be some sort of "sliding power connection" strip or track. They may even be inductive? Perhaps you could rethink your design from using wires over to a miniature sliding connector style setup? No wires to get all fouled up! Just a thought
Steven, first of all, compliments for your work and way you analyse this lamp.
When looking at the dyson, I see a fixed arm on the carriage, sticking out, when the lamp is completely forwarded.
When in the middle or retrackted, this fixed arm disappears behind the moving arm.
If there is a large slot in both the moving and fixed arm,, facing eachother, then you could put your (flat-)cable in it.
This way the cable is hidden and functional.
Maybe if you move your wheels out more, you could attach such a fixed arm.
This fixed arm don't need to be a 20x20-profile but maybe a smaller profile or even a elliptical piece of pipe.
The way your cables are attached now, is a sore blister in your design, a good idea, but a blister.
For the vertical cable, I thought of the following:
* The cable through the centre of the profile to the top of the profile.
* from there, down to the counterweight,
* again up to the top,
* over the toproller,
* into the fixed arm.
This way the cable follows the movement of arm and shortens/lengthens according to the movement of the lamp.
BTW, is it an idea to use the mechanism of the counterweight , also for the up/down armmmechanism?
It would be mucht cleaner then the wheelconstruction.
Good idea, Barrie, I know exactly what you mean with respect to that "fixed arm" used to hide the cable. Might be worth exploring as a way to hide the cables further. If I'm not mistaken this is only a feature of the original CSYS lamp and not the updated Lightcycle where they managed to hide the cable completely in the arm.
Nice idea for the improved vertical cable too, I if I found a suitable flat cable that doubles as a belt I might look into this more, still shopping for that elusive part though :)
Thanks for the thoughtful suggestions and for checking out the project :)
Indeed I looked for the lamp further, after I commented your clip and saw the fixed arm disappear.
Somehow I can imagine that they integrated this in the arm itself.
It could have become a kind of sliding side.
Never the less, with all respect again, it would look better then these chains.
The vertical-arm sollution has been done earlier.
I had an old lamp in the past, which had this idea.
It had a belt, with parallel on it, the cable.
These were seperate, but on the same axles and over the same guideroles.
Nowadays you have these silicon wires, which keep straight.
Maybe with the right tension(-ingsystem), you could keep this apearance clean and doable.
@@StevenBennettMakes in this clip you can see the power to the arm connection. ua-cam.com/video/arJQ2kgICiM/v-deo.html&ab_channel=Dyson
Just saw this video. Great audio. Good video. Love the content. Great job!
Aw, thanks, William! I really appreciate that :)
So interesting bro. Happy new year!
pfft love the name DIYson so much :D
😬
A suggestion for Version 2:
Use a stack of electrical tape and copper tape (or any other stack of insulator and conductor) in the same channel als the v-roller is rolling on top of. A sliding contact, a small conductive roller or a conductive leave spring, could than contact this strip hiding all wires all together.
Nice lamp. I love it. So simple but not. I love these tiny dragchains. But you could consider just 2 copper strips inside the extrusions with a glider. Just this magnetic coupler is patented ;)
Nice!
You might get the drag chains to be neater by attaching the end links parallel to the motion, spread apart by the diameter of the drag chain minimum curve. So you get the chain forming a nice "U" rather than it being like "P" as you have it now.
really nice progress
Thanks Neal! You were the very first follower of the project, thanks for sticking around :)
Awesome work, i can't wait to see how your custom PCB will turnout.
Aha, good catch :) Stay tuned!
Loving the video series so far! Have you considered running the power through a couple of copper strips inside the extrusion grooves (Insulated on the side touching the aluminium, and hidden inside the grooves edges), with a couple of L shaped graphite brushes acting as pickups fixed to the carriage. If this could be implemented for the horizontal and vertical axes then you would eliminate the need for cables/drag chains.
Hi Steven, just found your channel and love the DIYson project and watched all parts available so far. I love that you went back and to go to a 20x20 rather than the 20x40 rail.I like the effort you've gone through to design the drag chains and even "print-in-place" large sections, but asthetically it doesn't work and yous knows it ;-)
Instead of looking for a flat cable, I would suggets using "Copper Tape". this comes in self adhesive rolls in the right size.
Belt, Copper tape, Insulating tape, another layer of copper tape and then a final black layer ;-)
Keep up the great work and videos.
I am looking forward to the release of the final project. I love the spirit of the development and the not $600 bill at the end.
This is still too expensive a battery powered light almost requires almost no 3d printing
Amazing job, great job on figuring an alternative solution. My first thought when you described your issue was the old slot car tracks for applying power. But I like your solution better, the dragon cables are pretty cool. Another light control option is use and esp32, and control over Bluetooth or wifi.
I'm sure people have probably mentioned this, but what about like a linear slip ring conductor? Kind of like an electric train that gets its power from the tracks. You could fit two conductor strips down inside the channel on the aluminum and have like a leaf spring looking thing contact it (I'm not sure how else to describe it lol). I'm not sure how reliable it would be, but if it's properly tensioned and smooth, I think it could work pretty well.
I had a similar thought… two conductive wires embedded in the bottom channel of the lateral arm, exposed at the side facing out, and carbon motor brushes used to make contact. Conductive wire would be solid core, copper or aluminum, and the abrasiveness of the brushes would hopefully remove any accumulated corrosion or dirt whenever the arm is slid in/out.
Awesome video! Subbed
Oh yeah, you should have 6 million subs. ❤
🤩
This dude loves lamp
lol, you said 60 subs. your at 2k when I'm watching this. Going to watch part 2. this looks like a great project.
Great video, you should look into adding a metal strip like the one in extendable rulers, I've seen it used in cnc to make the drag chain neater. Keep up the great work!!
It's always good to stumble across gold.
Fantastic progress, I hope to be able to contribute to this project someday. Meanwhile may I suggest using measuring tape as a cable support, when you cut it in let's say 1 meter strip and then bend it gently 180 degrees it forms two straight sections with nice bend. It can easily support a few cables and it would keep cables orthogonal to the rest of the lamp. Voron builds use this technique in place of some drag chains. Great work and enjoy the process.
I had a similar idea for a modified hevo design I'm making, and when you described the issues in the first part of the video i hoped you'd go for cable chains.
A good way of keeping cable chains really tidy is to have a dynamic constraint at the half way mark between the chain and it's end or full length, that way it sits flush with the installation instead of out in these big loops.
Well done 👍
Thank you 👍
Wild idea: use the aluminum extrusions as the ground wire, route a thick wire for the +12 volts of the LED and a thin wire (or 2) for power to tiny controller board. The controller board reads the buttons and communicates wirelessly with the main controller located in the base
Really good cable management. Tried and tested chains. It's just so bad that I got a heavy spoiler from later videos. But I tend to like this desing just because of the "It just works" aspect
really nice video :) i will watch your career with great interest
Thanks, Christoph!
I think I've come up with an idea that might work. Remember those gimmicky sprung reels that would roll a cable up? Something like that. On the horizontal axis, you have the pill-shaped end, you could hide one here, route the cable through the top of the extrusion, enter the reel, exit through the bottom and intersect via the carriage. As for the vertical rail, go up through the carriage, around the belt, and hide the second reel within the counterweight, then drop the cable to the base.
there's also a potential alternative design to the counterweight that moves the design back to a 20x20 extrusion. Hide the wheels within the weight itself. All the weight needs to do is slide, and now with the wire tensioning mechanism, it could hold itself to the rail without issue. Have the belt/cable hookup at the top on the underside so that it can still hide within the rail, then the top wheel hidden within the counterweight, then the inlet for the wire, which then goes through a center reel, then the wire outlet, then the bottom wheel. And if you're really worried about keeping the counterweight flush, ad a second belt to the loop that goes through a bottom pulley within a square housing, the wiring could slip through this housing and into the slipring for the base. Of course this takes up space, just leave enough open room to funnel some lead shot into.
If you can get the reel design correct to where it works properly, this could be a very clean setup.
As a few others have said, I think there are maybe a few other alternatives you should explore. I have loved watching you not compromise on the solutions to these problems, and this one seems a little bit compromising. I think this might be one to keep on the whiteboard and think about a bit more because there has to be another way to have it all hidden as in the dyson design! I know your comments section would be happy to think about this more with you!
Agreed! Let's see if we can improve it :)
The Crafsman sent me here. Glad I stopped by :)
Great Video (and awesome lamp project) maybe someone already suggest it, but I would have mounted the last drag chain segment (the one connecting it to the carriage) pointing down into the aluminum extrusion, so that the chain lays flat on itself, with only a bow at the end (it needs to be a bit longer than the extrusion for this to work)
first time viewer here. and first time viewing that lamp too lol. my take on making a lamp like that would be using the metal frame as neutral. One Flat strip isolated running the length of the all axis very likely in the roller(one of them if not a special isolated one) and just do wireless communication between base, midjoint and light tip. so just turn the rails into power rails and split the componenets in site, with wireless communication between then. lol
yo man! i believe in u, go copy those patents n make us pirates proud !!! ARRRrrrrrrrr
Thanks for the video, no need for cables you can use tow aluminum profile in parallel and electrically isolated from each other so u can passe power to the lamp with the top and bottom metallic bearing the same thing u can use it with the vertical beam.
Hi, new to this channel but maybe I have a possible solution for the cable situation:
Check how the band for the counter weight is moving and kept in place by going from one side to the other of the aluminum profile. No matter how you adjust the lamp, the length of the band in one side is "compensated" on the other side (if short in one side, the other is longer.
You can make the same for the cable. From the lamp (in one extreme of the horizontal aluminum profile) to the opposite extreme of the profile (maybe a pulley is needed) then going to the lower channel of the profile, then going into the vertical profile, going all the way up and (with another pulley at the top of the vertical profile) you send the cable to the base.
2 channels of the vertical profile are used by the band, but the sides are still available for the cable.
You just need to nail the total length of the cable (easier routing from the lamp to the base and leaving additional length at the base) and a way to make the transition from horizontal to vertical, just like in you did in this video.
Also, congratulations on the drag chain, it looks awesome.
Great walkthrough of your project! Not sure if this has been mentioned in a previous comment but if you are only running power through the long wires then a sliding contact system might be cleaner than the drag chains; this could be similar to 12V track lighting rails.
You might also think about using a slip ring contact at the base to allow 360 degree rotation of the vertical section.
Dude this is soo cool ! the cable management is so nicely done, i have struggled with adding cables that hide away for my drawer lights and insted of wires i have went about with another aproach. You can too add that to this. so for my drawer lights i have passed electricity through the linear rails of the drawer, and the only wires were the wires powering the rails and the wires powering the light from the other end of it. For a similar mechanism you can add exposed copper wire or stip on the sides of the aluminium extrustion and then the sliding arm can have rolling connections on to the stips and add stips on the top sliding arm and connect to the led inside the led enclosure
Wow that is really clever. I wish I had the skills to pull that off, it sounds like that could definitely work here and be a super clean solution. Do you know if there are off-the-shelf components for doing something like this?
@@StevenBennettMakes I'm sure you can use any conductive strip that has good conductance of electricity. Also you add two seperate stips on both the sides for power and ground (The part connecting to the aluminium sould be insulated). For getting power from these two strips you can use something that will roll nicely on a flat surface. The best bet is to use the Bearing with 3d Printed body so that only the sides of the bearing roll on the gap of the Aluminium and the bearing touches the conductive strip.
You can get the ground and power from the screw connecting the Bearing.
also you can use aluminium stip as a conductive material. Or a thin strip of any sheet will do.
This is a really cool concept, and would make the power delivery significantly more discrete. I'll keep looking into this and consider it for a future upgrade :) Thanks for sharing!
amazing project!! I love it. to answer your questions according to me :
1 - May be you should consider using way smaller section cables for data than for power. This might go through the drag chains non?
2 - Why your dragchain head isn't flat for the horizontal one? it shouldn't be vertical?
3 - to join vertical cables to horizontal cables why don't you put a breakout board on the carriage?
good luck for your project. seems very promising.
DUDE
Great Video, found this from the Express Vid.
I may try and make the Express version for a buddy of mine that paint mini's for warhammer.
Use a guide wheel at the back of the arm and the top of the stand that the drag chains and cable will wrap over and back, you'd need to make the cable longer, but it'll keep the drag chains "tensioned" and neat, without them springing out and creating unsightly loops. The use of end rollers will keep the drag chain straight with a nice uniform U bend only where it needs to
You can use the thin and flexible kind of cable that pneumatic auto switches use (Example: SMC's D-M9PL sensor), and use T slot cover on the front or back slot so that the wire is trapped inside the slot and can't be seen, then make the cable go all the way to the opposite side of the horizontal arm and then turn towards the lamp, and cover the cable with baby powder or oil so that it slides and folds through the slot as you move the arm back and forth.
You could even change the wheels to metal ones and use the extrusion to carry the ground, to use a cable with one less wire.
Cheap miniature tape measures can make for a pretty good drag chain with a pretty tight bend radius.
Here because the CrafsMan liked your video.