New sewage drains
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- Опубліковано 21 лис 2020
- The final part of the groundworks is to move and establish new drains and sewage lines for the extension. This is a critical part of the work for a number of reasons - we need to have working toilets and grey-water removal, but we also needed a build-over agreement with Thames Water to be able to move the drains into a suitable position.
This build over agreement was slightly different from the norm, because the location of the drains was not exactly known, and because of that, neither they, nor us were sure where they needed to move to.
As a result, I was speaking with Thames during the dig/moving process to assess what was acceptable, regarding the type of materials used (plastic vs. clay) and established what they wanted me to do in order to sign off the build over agreement.
I have now measured and mapped out the location of the new pipework, and ensured the manhole has clear rodding access and is easily accessible from the side of the house.
The ground-workers finished running all the 4 inch pipes and got the ground prepared for the bricklayers to start.
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Have to say another well details video. Well done 👍
I need to add a new drain to existing clay pipe and this told me everything i need, cheers.
Awesome! Glad it helped mate
Thank you, Very informative
It has to be said that they are a good set of groundworkers.......top job as always...
100% agree! Really skilled - I wouldn't have stood a chance without them!
Ace video. Very informative 👍
explanation very good,never saw before,very good video,thanks
Good video. It's not easy to understand drainage and svp work from books. These sorts of videos bring a bit more clarity. Looking forward to more.
Great video lads well done ❤
Cheers! 💪
Look like you doing a good progress stay safe.
Love it 👍
Little tip get an old mirror and place in invert of manhole to make sure both inverts on the main and The manhole are level and there’s no lipping
Very well done
Cheers!!
A man after my own heart! I’m about to commence a self build and will be swapping my IT financial hat with my ground worker one. It’s not rocket science to do most trades. Plastering and brickwork are two that I leave to the professionals though.
100% agree mate, with some decent research, common sense, and close attention to detail, it's possible to achieve a surprisingly good finish. Best of luck to you!
Not one of the best building video but, The Best Video on UA-cam, good clear details of what's going on all the content is the best out there
Suberb video. Glad there wasn't any time-lapse.
Thanks 👍 excellent well explained .learnt a lot . obliged
Cheers, hope it helps!
very interesting & useful. looking at replacing 1990s conservatory with a timber building that came with house.
Hundreds % very helpful i recommend to that most people who want to build is very important to look at this clip
Did you just you going to add your ACO into your foul? What's your invert level? Your gradient is running to fast?
surface water and foul water should be on 2 separate systems...not so bad adding a down spout and a aco to a foul but if you add foul to surface then that means your turds are floating down ur local river, you also had back fall on one of your bends, never use a T on foul line always Y with a 45 bend and the pipe should also have 6 inch of pipe bedding on top of it as well also a whacker plate compacts more than the tracks of a 1.5 tonne machine. apart from that it was good video
Cheers mate - it's an odd one because we have a mixed sewer, that's the only pipe for us to attach into. I checked with Thames and it's always been a mixed one so there wasn't anywhere else to send it!
A lot of information as always. May I ask why you didn't choose to build and attached garage so you can have workshop area too or keep the driveway and build bigger extension on the back so can have more parking space and keep vehicle access to the back garden.
Cheers mate! Don't worry, it will become clear at the end of the project; we are keeping the drive way at the front, and making it big enough for 2/3 cars. We are keeping the garage as a garage for my motorbike and the family bicycles. I also have a big workshop at the back of my garden already, with power etc.
Didn't realise you could run your aco into your main sewer line.... thought all rainwater had to be done through a soakaway.. cool vid
Often it does need to be separated, you're right - but we have a mixed use drain and there isn't a separate one to run the rain water into, so it's quite fortunate!
So erm... I can't run a rainwater line from my garage roof into my sewer? I've got a separate storm line but it's nowhere near where I need it.
Great informative video, one question if I can: where you have removed the old rainwater cast down pipe joint to a clay (?) pipe and rejoined to a new plastic pipe, I noticed you didn't put a drain in. What's the reason for no drain? Thanks!
Hey mate, I'm not sure I follow your question, sorry! We reconnected everything up (all new pipes are in plastic, as agreed with Thames Water) and put drain runs in for the kitchen, utility room and toilet.
All of these connected up to a single man hole, because our system is on a mixed drain, with rain water, grey water and soil waste all being on one single man hole.
Hope that clarifies things, if not, please let me know - is there a time stamp, or section of the video you're specifically referring to?
Good job 👍.
Can you run surface water in to sewage line? Thank you for any reply.
We are allowed to because that is the case in our area... it's not always the case though, so you need to speak to whichever company is responsible for your waste water
@@OfficeBoyBuilder that's great, thank you for the reply 👍
Very interesting. Great video. Shouldn't any pipe gradient be max 1:40?
That pipe looked to be at an excessive gradient if it was carrying soil rather than water. (More steep than 1:40 and the solids separate from the water and may block).
I would have gone along at 1:40 then a swept bend upwards into utility. More digging though.
Agreed - it's just water waste on that steep one...nothing solid going down that pipe. Cheers!
Delicious!! Haha
Can you have a 90 degree bend on foul water pipework?
👌
Hello mate. How much do you charge to lay new sewer drainage and bridging old man hole? Thanks.
Great video thank you! I have one question about the plans, are these works that you have done with the sewage outlined in the plans from an architect, or do you have to design the modification yourself?
Cheers
Great question! And it's a murky answer...depending on who owns the sewer, and how recently they were installed, will decide how well mapped they are. Once you know where they sit in relation to the house, you can get an idea of where they need to be after the new extension...the architect may do this, if they are asked and know exactly where to mark them, but it's unlikely, because invariably the mapping is poor quality, if it's even there at all.
What tends to happen is that the builder/ground-worker has to figure it out when the ground is open, and then you have to make a semi-detailed note of where the new sewer lines are, and submit it to the owner of the sewer (Thames water etc).
I did this all myself because there was nothing on file with Thames water, and I was able to use my laptop to create/amend the plans from the architect.
Hope that helps!
@@OfficeBoyBuilder Thank you so much yes it is great help, Thank you again!
Did the ACO drain have a ACO MonoDrain foul air trap?
No, we used a P style trap on there
what is the liquid you are using before pushing the pipes together?
Silicone, helps slip it on, and makes it possible to take off if required
@@OfficeBoyBuilder a good dish soap liquid is just as good?
It works fine at the start, but as fluids run through it, it either washes off, or foams up....silicone sticks better to the plastic and helps seal up the joint slightly without making it stick (i.e. it stops water escaping but isn't a glue)
nothing under the chamber ?. Pea shingle or concrete ?
Nope, nothing needed there...it's a big wide chamber, and is on fairly stable clay. You don't want to dig down below the shared sewer line too much because of the risk of breaking it, just to get shingle in. You put shingle around the 4inch pipe because they're more brittle and less protected. The chamber's are semi-structural.
Shud have some base under the chamber a lean concrete base or bed it with pea shingle
I left that to the professionals who've been doing it for 25 years...perhaps we should have, but the base that they built on was very solid, and where the ground wasn't solid, they made it firm with Type 1
@@harrysingh1145 Always on a base.
Definitely needed to be on a lean concrete base even a 2mm drop on those clay collars cause lippage in the drain run. Building control wouldn't have passed this off in my area
👍
You ain’t got a file for the pipe ?Funny how u do it with the diskater 😂
How do you get around putting all them drain runs in and covering them up without Building Control passing them first?
The drains don't really need building control's sign off...the main water one needs a Thames Water build over agreement, which we got (by designing the plan and layout, and then showing them the plans of what we've done). The building control office is interested in where they go, but more interested in knowing they're supported and secure (which we've shown them)
@@OfficeBoyBuilder Strange how Boroughs differ, and they do, BC should be uniform throughout the country but there you go. I my area all drainage has to be inspected before it is backfilled and years ago some boroughs asked for an air test as well 👍
It's amazing how much it can vary from street to street, or even houses next to one another! Our building inspector was sure Thames would say they wanted clay, but they were happy with plastic. It's also a combined sewer, which they are sometimes odd about, but that's how it was when we bought the place 💪
@@OfficeBoyBuilder Combined systems are fine but they never used to like you adding rainwater to them as in the Acos, that had to go into its own soakaway maybe things have changed you Would have to check the SUDS regs to find out.
Yeah, although the building inspector specifically told me not to do a soak away because it's such solid clay that it won't soak away anywhere lol
Is surface water aco drains and foul water sewer allowed to be joined I thought they have to be separate manholes
We're super lucky that we already had a mixed use drain, so Thames Water confirmed we were able to maintain that and have our rainwater and foul water all in one. Typically you'd have them separate, but it depends on the situation on site.
12:20 not 150? RIght? Looks like 110 pipe
Yes it is 110mm pipe. I was saying we have 150mm of pea-shingle supporting the pipe underneath...👍👍
@@OfficeBoyBuilder a ok. Sorry haha not clear to me. . dont know al the work related terminologisch
Like
Did u have to get a Thames water build over agreement. If so then the manhole shud really be done in brick and clay pipe as its on a main run.
We did get a build over agreement, and I was on the phone with Thames the day before and the day of the build, asking exactly what they wanted.
They confirmed they were happy with plastic for the manhole chamber and the pipe. I was a bit surprised because normally they prefer to replace clay with clay, so I got the person I was speaking to, to spend me an email specifically stating they were happy with plastic, just so I was covered! Lol
@@OfficeBoyBuilder good that u checked and got confirmation. Thames water need to stick to a standard method, they need a guide otherwise everyone is doing different things. If building control check it and are happy then all good.
Question - at this point in the video ( ua-cam.com/video/qmzTwBhVtAU/v-deo.htmlsi=qmludX9aA9pmykin&t=626 ) the drop is more than 1 in 40, how is this allowed within regs? Asking as i need to drop some steep drops to get a soil pipe in over Tiered land, so what to understand best approach - i.e. i can achieve 1 in 40 but then i have to drop at 90 degrees, can i do this?.. thanks in advance
That particular pipe is only for grey water, not waste, so there isn't an issue with the drop... honestly not sure how you'd achieve it if you have space constraints.
Why not just clean up the clay pipes before you slide the flexseal couplings on? Saved 10 seconds to risk a poor seal.
Are you actually getting your hands dirty? Otherwise what is the point of filming it?
Where else would you be able to post a comment if there wasn't a video about it...?
That's is far to much fall for a foul line🤦♂️water moves faster than solids you are just asking for a blockage
It's kitchen sink water, not foul waste 👍 it's all good