3 Suit Fabrics Explained: Wool, Cotton & Linen | Beginner Suit Advice
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- Опубліковано 21 кві 2023
- Suits come in many different fabric compositions such as wool, cotton and linen. So what's the difference? And what is best for you?
If you are in search for a first suit or perhaps new suit but something different, I dive into wool, linen and cotton to help you understand better the differences and benefits of each. I also talk about what kind of situations each type of suit is appropriate for and how I'd wear it.
This was a informative video! I used to buy cheap polyester suits. Now I always try to guy 100% wool with it lined with a material thats breathable like silk or viscose. I was amazed because with my polyester suits I would start to sweat just from standing and my first time wearing a wool suit I didnt sweat at all even while running around
Thank you for sharing that with us here. I'm sure it will be helpful to those who are interested in suits and breathability.
Nice video clips on this topics
Great video. Thanks.
I’ve been waiting for a guide on fabrics for quite some time. Thank you Justin !
Your welcome, I hope you find this useful!
You are so fresh. This is insane. Keep them coming. You’re now our my go to.
I’m happy to hear, I’ll keep the videos coming and try to do my best for you guys!
Very nice video once again, Justin.
From the production to your content and your presentation, your videos are quickly becoming some of my favorite.
Congrats again on this great channel!
Thank you Gustavo!
Stumbled on this video and now I get why some linens are more expensive than others, really reconsidering a custom linen suit for this summer 👌🏻
Glad to hear, and I hope my video was helpful
Awesome. Subscribed. Looking forward to seeing your channel blow up 🎉
Me too, haha! At least I hope so. I'll keep the content coming, 3 videos per month, maybe 4.
Awesome video man thanks for sharing.
Thanks for watching!
Great tutorial!
Glad you like it
I am discovering you today. Very well made video. Bravo!
Thanks and welcome
Overall a nice collection, Justin. Pls keep up the good work
Thank you! Glad you like them, and I'll keep them coming.
Nice! I believe you are one of the few that discusses fabric in dept 😁
Thanks, and glad you liked it! I will dive even deeper in the future.
I love your videos! I just started this journey. I’m trying to buy a sport coat but I live in a very hot/humid place. I think I’m going to try linen blend with cotton.
Welcome to the sartorial world! I hope you enjoy the journey and discovering the beauty and reason they call it 'classical' clothing. If I might make a suggestion, a wool/linen blend might wear drier and be more cool wearing and breathable than a linen/cotton blend. If you have other more specific questions, I'm happy to help. I check this email daily: www.principlem.com/contact
Hey Justin, amazing video!
I'm planning on buying a suit for my engagement, the choice is between a super 130 and a super 160 worsted wool.
I plan on wearing it on special occasions (3-4 times a year) after my engagement
Which one would you recommend?
Great Job
Cheers, Philipp
Good show Justin, it's nice to see a new kid on the block I hope you do well
Thank you, Stephen!
Great Video Justin. not many people talk about the difference between worsted wool and wool. just to add a little bit to your description,
generally worsted wools are combed before they are spun into a yarn. Combing is usually an additional operation that gives a better, smoother finish to the fibers and to the eventual fabric. Combs are used to remove the short fibers, and arrange the remaining fibers in a flat bundle, all facing in the same direction.
that is the reason they look more luxurious with a smooth hand.
about linen, I am thinking of having a linen suit of Dugdale Bros that has a weight of 350g, I live in a hot climate with a temperature above 35c in summer. so how do you think this weight of fabric will behave in comparison with wool suit that has a fabric weights 290g/m. I like the heavier weight as it drapes and looks smarter in my humble opinion.
Thanks for adding that on wool, I’d like to take a deeper dive into wools in the future. The tobacco linen suit I’m wearing is from Dugdale Bros at 350g, I’d say it’s a great option, in Beijing it gets to around 35c in the summer and that’s when I tend to wear that suit most. That brown linen suit I’m wearing is over 400g, which is a bit too heavy for 35c.
Great video! Pretty sure more subscribers to come soon!
Glad you liked it!
I'm impressed
Thank you very much.
Thanks for your insights, Justin. I have a beach wedding in a humid tropical climate and have been stressing about the material I should pick as a suit. Your comments about wool make me more comfortable with potentially selecting this as an option. Any thoughts on what would be more formal between wool and linen? If I get too sweaty, can wool wick as well as linen?
Hi Ernest, first, congrats! I actually made a video about wedding attire, I'll send a link. But to get to your questions; first, wool will surely be more formal--just make sure you get something in a high twist, which will be super breathable, even if its slightly heavier in weight than a less breathable twill wool, which is more dense and less breathable. A 250-280g high twist wool will even be more breathable than a 320-350g Irish linen. Since the suit wont actually be touching your upper body skin, when it comes to wicking sweat away, you might want to consider a linen or cotton/linen blend shirt, which will wick the sweat away and then if you have a breathable suit, sweat will evaporate quicker. I'm not sure what you are thinking of in terms of color, but if you are on the beach, you can consider something more casual to balance out a formal wool on the beach, for example a khaki, tan or beige color (I just posted a pic on my instagram in a high twist suit in this color, check that out, link in my bio to my insta.) I hope this is helpful! Sounds like a wonderful wedding plan!
Here is the wedding attire video I mentioned: ua-cam.com/video/VDR3bmMA8Fk/v-deo.html
Nice and informative video! What do you think about Kerry knoll linen fabric? Also which brand of cotton would you recommend? Thanks a lot😊
Merry Knoll is nice, especially for HOT climates since it’s on the lighter side. For cotton I like Caccioppoli.
good vid.
Thanks!
Great video Justin! I’m just starting a career in wealth management and have an intermediate wardrobe. Would love to get your opinion on a business professional wardrobe for five days in the office.
Hi Tony, thanks for watching. Great idea, I'll put that on the list. I'm curious, in your profession do they require a tie or would you wear one only by choice?
@@Justin_Kwan Ties are required but I would probably wear one even if they were not.
@@Tony-C thanks for the feedback. I'll try to make a 5 days 5 outfits for the business professional in the near future. Another follow-up question; how many suits should I feature? Would you find it more interesting to have a more minimalist approach with fewer suits and different shirt/tie combos or would you find it more inspiring to see 5 different suits?
@@Justin_Kwan 2 or 3 suits while varying the shirts, ties, shoes, and accessories. This seems like a more reasonable starting point before building up to 5 suits and also highlights the versatility of a business suit. Again, thank you for the videos, hopefully it inspires more people to dress in a classic style as many of us return to the office.
Thanks for a great video! 😊
Do you have any recommendations for brands in each category, which i, as a home sewist, can buy? I am just beginning my journey into making my own suits, but those fancy brands you mention are not available if you're not a professional buyer 😉
I'd check a local fabric shop in your area first, or even ebay. I bet you could find some nice stuff starting with those sources.
First time buying a wool suit (with 90 percent wool and the rest made of linen and other materials). Its an anthony squires spencer suit and looks great, but has some "imperfections" with the wool with only minute bumps of the thread sticking out. Is that normal? Asked the store and apparently it is but just wanted to make sure
sometimes linen and silk will have irregularities in the weaving, adding texture, which is normal and acceptable.
Hey Justin, I am close to buying my first suit overall, so it will be navy. I am living in northern Germany with 4 full seasons, with the temperatures being between -7 degress Celsius in the winter and 33 degree celsius max. in the summer.
I tend to get hot/warm really quickly. So should I lean more towards elegant types of cotton suites or towards a light wool suit?
In my workplace, I don't have to wear a suit.
I'd probably go with a light wool if going with navy. Only because I'd prefer to go with earthy tones if I were to go with a cotton suit. A lightweight navy wool suit around 280g will be great during all 4 seasons for any formal occasion.
Great video and advice. Do you sell suits worldwide? Cheers Ron
Glad you like it. We will launch our RTW worldwide first, then perhaps start doing trunk shows to offer bespoke and MTM
👍👍
My first bespoke was an Indochino. I believe it was Merino wool, though I still found it hot (it wasn't summer). Could it have been too heavy? I understand the merits of the fabric.
Is there a budget you would recommend when soliciting a tailor or suitmaker stateside? And thoughts on soliciting traveling tailors based in Asia but take orders from around the world?
Hi, thanks for the feedback and curiosity. Merino wool only refers to the breed of sheep which have a fine wool that is great for suiting fabrics and knitwear. The suit you got from Indochino was probably a fine worsted, twill or maybe even flannel--all which have less ventilation capabilities due to the tighter weave and/or the overall weight of the fabric was heavy, the later specifically made for cold seasons. A high twist wool will have a lot of ventilation, 250g will be nice and light but even up to 300g and you should be good. Plain weave at 280g, in my opinion, will make the best 4 seasons suit vs. a 280 twill weave (which is what you see most big brands offering for 4 season).
When buying a suit, it's important to know what you are getting. From Indochino, you got a made to measure suit, which is custom made, using a base or block pattern with adjustments and produced in an industrial factory--which can result in a well made suit that fits better than off the rack. Bespoke is a suit that is cut by a master tailor for you and made from scratch based on your measurements and posture, usually requires a fitting or two, then it is usually made by a single tailor and a finisher who may help out with buttons, button holes and finishing pick-stitching.
I only explain some of this because it leads to your final question--whether you made a suit stateside or from a traveling tailor, know what you are getting and make sure there is transparency. Then, look at your budget of what you want to spend and get the best you can afford. Also, don't walk into any one experience and expect to get a perfect result off the bat, but if you find a tailor that has good communication and understanding of what you want and you have a mutual understanding of what they can offer, then proceed in the relationship. Maybe even start off with a trouser or jacket to test the relationship.
As a proprietor of a tailor shop and brand in Beijing for over 10 years, I find the biggest frustration on both sides (me and sometimes my customers) comes from a miss-match in expectations. This is probably too much information but it will save you, and other viewers, a lot of pain and I'd like to share this... Most brands will post their best works online for people to see, for me all of my work, my suits and my pictures are a result of over 19 years in the retail and clothing industry, of going down this sartorial journey and of me posting and publishing the results I've been able to achieve over time, making some mistakes, learning and striving to do better and better each time. I can apply a lot of that experience to each and every one of my customers but I'd be lying if I said I can deliver to you exactly what you see on me immediately, but if you are willing to give it some time, understand there may be some trial and error (ex: what's a good fit, objectively and subjectively) and go down this journey together, we can achieve some amazing results and build a wonderful relationship along the way.
Good luck on the journey! It's a lot of fun and I feel it never ends. If you have other questions or what to discuss the topic further, I respond to all inquiries here: www.principlem.com/contact
Hi, great video, can you please share the details of the suit at 1:44 like what colour and what style of jacket ?
Hi, that's a navy suit with pinstripe made with Scabal's Jet Set super 150's traveller wool. The jacket is a classic single breasted notch lapel design.
Thank you.@@Justin_Kwan
What fabric is your olive suit in? Also what are your thoughts on how much shirt cuff to show?
Hi, the olive suit I’m wearing around 1:25 mark is from the Summer Solids VBC bunch. I try to show around 1cm or around half an inch of cuff.
AT LAST! ..... A proper guide in the minefield that is "Gentlemen's Suits."
Thank you, glad to hear you like it. More to come!
Hello Justin.
What is that Brown Linen suit you”re wearing? It looks really nice.
Hi thanks, its an Irish linen from Dugdale Brothers and the color is best described as Tobacco. If you search around, you will find many tailor shops have similar colors. If you are interested, let me know and I can also help out with remote made to measure services and can get you fitted in the same suit.
@@Justin_Kwan Thank you for the quick answer.
Your welcome. Hope it's helpful@@Mooncakeish
I had a question about a Double breasted cashmere navy Blazer , what type of hanger will be best to support the Sholder lines ?
Use a hanger that has full, rounded shoulders to keep that shape. Don't use a metal or thin hanger.
@Justin_Kwan Does the same work with a Double Breasted Pea Coat ?
How do you recommend to construct a linen suit from lighter fabric for very warm climates (under 200g)?
That is very light. For the jacket, I'd still go with a lightly constructed jacket and I'd go with no lining to keep it even lighter and more relaxed. But do note, it will be casual wearing, wrinkling and a bit 'slumpy' looking at only 200g.
Nice suits, but a 3 roll 2 looks silly because of that button hole in the lapel. What’s the point ?
Some people don't like the look. The way it evolved was after WWII, Japanese photographers were obsessed with US Ivy style and they when to Ivy league campuses to photograph stylish American students. They realized at that time all the jackets had a 3rd button hole on the lapel and then mimicked the design. Italians thereafter also copied the design. The reason the students at that time had jackets like that is because they were too poor to buy a 2 button jacket so they just ironed their 3 button jacket lapels into a 2 button design. Nowadays, it's associated with nonchalance or Italian Spretzatura and a lot of casual jackets have the 3-roll-2 design. I feel it works well on casual jackets or suits that are less formal. However, I'd never make a suit in a 3-roll-2 design on my formal wear.
Hi Justin, I'm From Kolkata, India. It's Very Hot and Humid here most of the time. I want to buy a good suit for attending weddings and similar occasions. There are some luxurious brands with high price tag selling Suits with Poly Blends ( Poly+ Rayon, 75 poly+25 wool ). Can I consider Buying them or is it better to buy fabric and tailor make it and in that case which Fabric or Fabric blend should I choose ?
Hello, I'd stay away from any poly blend, they don't breath very well and it will feel like you are wearing a plastic bag. Go for a wool in 250 grams and high twist, this will be very breathable and wrinkle resistant. If you are open to something slightly more casual, go with a wool 55% linen 45% blend, which will be light and breathable as well. If you can't find any of these fabrics at a local tailor, message me and I can help out.
@@Justin_Kwan Okay .. let me look around in the local area and If I can't find a good fabric then I'll contact you
@@EIY_Kumar Okay!
What is the fabric name in your suit in this whole video
Is there a specific suit you were interested in? I can help share the fabric name and reference if you let me know. In future videos I'll try to post each suit fabric name for you guys.
What are your thoughts on a Cotton/Linen hybrids? Do they really get the best of both worlds, or negate the benefits you'd normally get?
Great question. If you want to explore a blend, I'd suggest wool/linen over cotton/linen. Here is why: usually anything linen or blended with linen will need to be dry cleaned, negating the biggest benefit of cotton, in my opinion, which is the ability to launder it at home. Second, if you want something cool wearing and a bit casual, cotton added to linen wont actually be any more breathable. If you are thinking of a blend with linen, I think wool is fantastic. Wool will give the fabric more structure, linen will keep it a bit relaxed and they will be airy and breathable while keeping a nice clean drape.
Wear was the lining. And your pants were little high. There shld be a break and the cuff not straight..at your shoe. ❤
I'd say there are two things to keep in mind with fit: what is, objectively, a good fit. And second, the subjective side of the wearer and what they like and prefer.
I can't wrap my head around why would anyone want a fine twisted wool suit let alone a super 100 or more.
Absolutely ZERO drape. The smallest movement you make results in massive wrinkling lines along the whole body.
Such light fabric simply cannot fall and drape in a good manner.
I prefer the older heavier style fabrics.
I don't disagree with your point on older, heavier style fabrics. However, some of the lighter high twist fabrics have fantastic drape, shape and hold a crease great. In hot humid weather, like Beijing summer where it's 30+c, I'm wearing light high twist, my friend!