Haha. I thought I knew everything about wool. I was really wrong. Great addition to the channel. I loved the tweed video and I will be sharing this one as well!
I am looking into getting a super 180 wool fabric suit that is very fitted. I plan on wearing it once, or two times a week for 3 hours each wear. Do you think that this suit will last me a good time?
You are the only 'gentleman' sartorial channel' that goes into this depth; most other channels don't dare go to this historical depth and detail. The Gentleman's Gazette is head and shoulders above the rest!
Good job from Master handspinner. A few minor points. 1. The ‘s’ after a number refers to Bradford count Skeins. Bradford used how many skeins (S) from a pound of wool ( but also we calculate count from silk, linen, cotton using a different constant in the equations) 2. The super wools are Merinos which I believe you mentioned but there are other super fine wools Cormo, Rambouillet to name two. Merino has branded itself as ‘wool’ however it has become a monopoly. Merino is the silk of wools. Not appropriate for all applications. We are losing sheep breeds’ genetics which is bad for all sheep. 200 sheep breeds out there. We in the fiber community are fighting to save rarer breeds. Long wools for example would provide excellent luster and tremendous longevity so great for outerwear. 3. Wools breath which is why they are great even in summer. My husband wears wool jersey tshirts for example. But as you say, if lining is acetate, there goes wonderful quality of wool to wick moisture. Try to line with cotton or linen for summer or some unconstructed jackets unlined. 4. The finer super wools drape but the ‘coarser’ wools hold their body which is why vintage suits used more of those wools. So by buying super wools which are so flimsy you are buying how feels to the touch alone. Those drapy fabrics needs a lot more understructure to get it to have shape. If you had a wool with more ‘body’ less understructure is needed. Make sense? Otherwise great job.
These are great info sharing videos - as a self-admitted quality fanatic, I appreciate the guidance and the fact that you shared your mix and match of fabrics, complementary colors and patterns, illustrating once more that looking sharp doesn’t have to be a chore.
After watching so many GG videos I was able to get a custom 3 piece suit recently. I got it in S150s LP year round fabric. It is super soft to the touch, but since it is so light it doesn't drape as well. I personally don't mind the drape, but it's something to keep in mind.
I'm grateful for this video. Not only will it help me see through any potential marketing ploys, it'll help me better select what's right for me. It seems like I should look for a super 100-120 with a heavier weight and a looser weave. I want the durability, breathe-ability, and the resistance to wrinkles.
Great video as always GG! Still... rather disappointing to hear that Preston says his suit fits well. Taking in the center and side seams is a relatively cheap alteration but does wonders for one's fit! It's surprising you haven't done this yet, Preston!
You're absolutely right, Alex; the jacket, while I'd still say that it fits "well" (a fairly vague term, admittedly), could undoubtedly benefit from some alteration. Thanks for your keen eye, and stay tuned for some upcoming content on alterations! :) - Preston
"fits well" is quite genorouse Here. He could fit a small watermellon in his buttoned jacket. Looks like he got it from his big brother. Looking forward to the alterations Video.
Some of the trouble with taking a too athletic cut on jacket sides results in the bottom opening up when buttoned to reveal your tie. I struggle with this balance and tend to leave my suit jackets unbuttoned as it looks slightly less sloppy than having my ties stick out below my suit button.
Greg Crabling - Yes, his suit fits him very well. Aside from using a neck tie for a belt, I like Preston's casual style (sweater, cardi, chinos, loafers).
Can we get a video on Gabadine Fabric maybe as well? I’m really loving these fabric vids as it helps me to understand more when I buy my cloth, though mostly online these days.
Super 120s fit the bill for me. G & H my Savile Row tailor (Davide Taub is the bomb) are making me 3 suits that are in a word exquisite. To me these suits are just as elegant as any higher super designation!
When i saw the thumbnail for this video I thought it was the one from Sartorial Talks. That video is great as well. I did like a bit of the background on wool that Preston gives.
When I have suits made I mainly consider super numbers in the respect of how durable it's going to be. I don't want something too fine because I don't want to wear it out prematurely. With that in mind I like to stick between 100s and 120s
Would you consider making a video about espadrilles, would like to implement them into my wardrobe for this summer but still not sure about the do's and don'ts, thanks! Once again great vid!
Outstanding presentation!! Quite informative and equally educational! I have observed a new face at Gentleman's Gazette. If I may, the glasses may need to disappear or simply replaced in order to see the eyes better. Pardon my providing this view. Semper Fi
A lower super number is not necessarily sturdier because, as was pointed out, it is not related to threads per inch. Therefore, a low super number may have denser threads but if they are woven somewhat loosely, the yarns can be pulled easily during ordinary use or even during construction.
I love the history lesson, how they actual sheep were moved around great info and although I would love to have 180s plus the best I own is 150 and I love it
I’ve found over the years that modern Super 150s from time tested companies like VBC, LP, Zenga etc. actually held up better than most of my 120s. So now I no longer believe the durability hype
Can you make a video going over the Identificatiom of fabrics when its not labeled? I purchased 2 storage units at auction and one of them contained a pair of custom suits the labels are all but destroyed however by some miracle the suits appear in amazing condition. I can tell they are custom hand stitched and the lining in one of them is silk. Beyond that I cannot figure anything out.
Good video. Do you have a video on how to deal with ties? By that I'm referring to. How to store them. Should I hang them from a tie holder, fold\ roll them. What? This is about everyday wear.
For some bizarre reason, all the fabric shops in my city only have super 120s and up, and all of them are some kind of cashmere wool blend sometimes with silk too. Sometimes, i just want a sturdy fabric yet it is impossible.
Dont Want ton be too picky buuuuut some of your videos happen to be released juste à few days after hugo jacomet’s. With that Being said once again thats another great video !
A couple of points. Donegal. It's pronounced more like Dunegal. Secondly, in my experience tailors prefer not to use the lightest fabrics because they're harder to work with. Imagine trying to make a suit with tissue paper. Heavier cloth is easier to work with, at least with handmade garments.
I definitely prefer a more durable fabric, but I also prefer a more rugged look. I don't mind rough fabrics on my body so I almost never go for something fine and smooth.
Excellent video on a very relevant subject. It's bad psychologically to use commonly provided terms i.e. the super numbers without any knowledge of what they mean. Grasping these common but yet usually unknown terms will help men be more confident understanding their wardrobe and therefore more confident in their wardrobe. Thanks as always for being champions in the menswear cause.
Has anyone else ever wondered what the quality of wool is from companies like Michael kors, Perry Ellis, and Calvin Klein? Any company that puts out a product that isn’t a super number for that matter. I’d like to know more about these wools since I’d like to know what these companies are producing and how much they are making off it versus what it’s actually worth and the quality difference.
Love the channel, however, at 06:08 the term "late 18th century" for describing this time period is incorrect...Lumb and Sons and the development of "supers" was the late 19th century as the 18th century lasted from January 1, 1701, to December 31, 1800, well before Lumb's time of manufacturing development of wool yarns...
I want to buy a lighter suit for the summer from T.M Lewin, don't know if you've heard of it, its based in the U.K. I need to choose between a super 110 or 120, which one will be lighter, and less warm, beacause I'm buying online I can't feel the cloth. Thanks to anyone who will answer
im thinking 160 super for pants 180 for shirt and 190 for jacket. i really want to sew my own suit, its taking tons of research, hopefully can start sewing in November and finish by xmas.
I really enjoy your content, but I usually get discouraged to watch the video because of the (I believe, perceived) movement of the background due to the change of frames in the shot. It makes me a little seasick, sorry. Changing of subject, Preston is on fire, well done!
Sorry to be pernickety but Donegal is pronounced more like ‘dunny-gal’ as opposed to ‘donny-gal’. I’ve heard it a few times pronounced incorrectly on here and I’ve always wanted to correct it.
Hey! Good job on the video; that being said, might I suggest more attention or thought be put into the scripting? I just mean to say the narrative feels a bit all over the place rather than smoothly flowing. I am, however, just being picky of course.
It all depends on the environment. For example, I live in Scotland and the colder climate here means that I prefer heavier fabrics. The side-advantage of this is that I get a fantastic drape. However, if I were ever to decide to pack up and move to the Bahamas, instead of wearing just linens or other summery-fabrics, I might still want to wear a traditional wool suit. However, I would need a lighter weight in fresco in order to have the same amount of 'breathability' in the fabric.
![Lp. Сердце Вселенной #60 РОЖДЕНИЕ ЛОЛОЛОШКИ [Финал] • Майнкрафт](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/YoR0pAV9FVQ/mqdefault.jpg)
Haha. I thought I knew everything about wool. I was really wrong. Great addition to the channel. I loved the tweed video and I will be sharing this one as well!
I am looking into getting a super 180 wool fabric suit that is very fitted. I plan on wearing it once, or two times a week for 3 hours each wear. Do you think that this suit will last me a good time?
You are the only 'gentleman' sartorial channel' that goes into this depth; most other channels don't dare go to this historical depth and detail. The Gentleman's Gazette is head and shoulders above the rest!
Agreed
Good job from Master handspinner. A few minor points. 1. The ‘s’ after a number refers to Bradford count Skeins. Bradford used how many skeins (S) from a pound of wool ( but also we calculate count from silk, linen, cotton using a different constant in the equations) 2. The super wools are Merinos which I believe you mentioned but there are other super fine wools Cormo, Rambouillet to name two. Merino has branded itself as ‘wool’ however it has become a monopoly. Merino is the silk of wools. Not appropriate for all applications. We are losing sheep breeds’ genetics which is bad for all sheep. 200 sheep breeds out there. We in the fiber community are fighting to save rarer breeds. Long wools for example would provide excellent luster and tremendous longevity so great for outerwear. 3. Wools breath which is why they are great even in summer. My husband wears wool jersey tshirts for example. But as you say, if lining is acetate, there goes wonderful quality of wool to wick moisture. Try to line with cotton or linen for summer or some unconstructed jackets unlined. 4. The finer super wools drape but the ‘coarser’ wools hold their body which is why vintage suits used more of those wools. So by buying super wools which are so flimsy you are buying how feels to the touch alone. Those drapy fabrics needs a lot more understructure to get it to have shape. If you had a wool with more ‘body’ less understructure is needed. Make sense?
Otherwise great job.
I love the way this gentleman has presented this session, magnificent
These are great info sharing videos - as a self-admitted quality fanatic, I appreciate the guidance and the fact that you shared your mix and match of fabrics, complementary colors and patterns, illustrating once more that looking sharp doesn’t have to be a chore.
After watching so many GG videos I was able to get a custom 3 piece suit recently. I got it in S150s LP year round fabric. It is super soft to the touch, but since it is so light it doesn't drape as well. I personally don't mind the drape, but it's something to keep in mind.
I'm grateful for this video. Not only will it help me see through any potential marketing ploys, it'll help me better select what's right for me.
It seems like I should look for a super 100-120 with a heavier weight and a looser weave. I want the durability, breathe-ability, and the resistance to wrinkles.
You are looking less robotic good job
😮
Very Informative. The Gentleman giving the explanation kept me engaged throughout the video.
I am planning on commissioning a MTM suit and this was very helpful. Thank you!
Jesus Christ. Are you guys mind readers? Not even two hour ago I was looking for a way to contact you to make exactly this video! Incredible!
No you’re just in the Truman Show.
Great video as always GG! Still... rather disappointing to hear that Preston says his suit fits well. Taking in the center and side seams is a relatively cheap alteration but does wonders for one's fit! It's surprising you haven't done this yet, Preston!
You're absolutely right, Alex; the jacket, while I'd still say that it fits "well" (a fairly vague term, admittedly), could undoubtedly benefit from some alteration. Thanks for your keen eye, and stay tuned for some upcoming content on alterations! :)
- Preston
"fits well" is quite genorouse Here.
He could fit a small watermellon in his buttoned jacket.
Looks like he got it from his big brother.
Looking forward to the alterations Video.
Some of the trouble with taking a too athletic cut on jacket sides results in the bottom opening up when buttoned to reveal your tie. I struggle with this balance and tend to leave my suit jackets unbuttoned as it looks slightly less sloppy than having my ties stick out below my suit button.
Finally!
Preston started wearing formal and beautiful suits.
Greg Crabling - Yes, his suit fits him very well. Aside from using a neck tie for a belt, I like Preston's casual style (sweater, cardi, chinos, loafers).
@@pattgsm I love that color on Princeton.
Great tutorial on the super numbers.
Will you ever make a video to compare english and italien suits? That would be great!
This guy knows his stuff. Thanks for the information.
Can we get a video on Gabadine Fabric maybe as well? I’m really loving these fabric vids as it helps me to understand more when I buy my cloth, though mostly online these days.
Super 120s fit the bill for me. G & H my Savile Row tailor (Davide Taub is the bomb) are making me 3 suits that are in a word exquisite. To me these suits are just as elegant as any higher super designation!
Helpful info for those of us who dabble in tailoring, thanks.
The Sartorial Talks UA-cam channel also has an excellent video on this.
When i saw the thumbnail for this video I thought it was the one from Sartorial Talks. That video is great as well. I did like a bit of the background on wool that Preston gives.
Thank you!
Absolutely great and very informative video! I just found your channel and I am a subscribed fan! Can’t wait to watch all of your content!
I've been waiting for this video my whole life lol
When I have suits made I mainly consider super numbers in the respect of how durable it's going to be. I don't want something too fine because I don't want to wear it out prematurely. With that in mind I like to stick between 100s and 120s
I'm the same way, I've learnt that Super 120 is too delicate for me
I had an old blazer I thought was made of a blend, but then the label said pure wool super 100s and then I kept it. I am such snob.
Excellent video! May I suggest that you film a video discussing different weave (e.g., plain weave, hopsack, twill) of fabrics in the future?
Great suggestion, also maybe a breakdown or history and current relevance of different mills like Zegna, Cannonico, Scabal, Dormeuil, etc.
I second that suggestion
Would you consider making a video about espadrilles,
would like to implement them into my wardrobe for this summer but still not sure about the do's and don'ts, thanks!
Once again great vid!
Outstanding presentation!! Quite informative and equally educational! I have observed a new face at Gentleman's Gazette. If I may, the glasses may need to disappear or simply replaced in order to see the eyes better. Pardon my providing this view. Semper Fi
A lower super number is not necessarily sturdier because, as was pointed out, it is not related to threads per inch. Therefore, a low super number may have denser threads but if they are woven somewhat loosely, the yarns can be pulled easily during ordinary use or even during construction.
Thanks, very informative. Really like the history aspect of the lesson.
I love the history lesson, how they actual sheep were moved around great info and although I would love to have 180s plus the best I own is 150 and I love it
من أفضل صانعي المحتوي... تحيه طيبه لك من بلد الحضاره مصر... محمد أبو الفضل
I need a suit that is a material for winter, but can be comfortable in summer at well. Is there such a thing?
Have a couple of Tasmanian super 150s from Hickey Freeman. Really like them
Me too👍
WOW! Wonderful presentation
OMG THANK GOD YOU MADE THIS
I don't know if it is the lighting or the glasses, but it makes your eyes look HUGE!
For tweed suits, what is it super number .?
I’ve found over the years that modern Super 150s from time tested companies like VBC, LP, Zenga etc. actually held up better than most of my 120s. So now I no longer believe the durability hype
Can you make a video going over the Identificatiom of fabrics when its not labeled? I purchased 2 storage units at auction and one of them contained a pair of custom suits the labels are all but destroyed however by some miracle the suits appear in amazing condition. I can tell they are custom hand stitched and the lining in one of them is silk. Beyond that I cannot figure anything out.
I love your program so much.
That jaw line is Killin me!
seriously it looks like he could cut ice with it lol
I am wanting to get a hand-made wool suit and the suit maker has 120, 180, and 200 option. Which would be of better quality?
Could we get a bit more distance between the camera and the speaker?
Good video.
Do you have a video on how to deal with ties? By that I'm referring to. How to store them. Should I hang them from a tie holder, fold\ roll them. What? This is about everyday wear.
Thanks so much for the education !
Thanks Preston will you believe that I have an interview in Huddersfield 😃👍🏽
Best of luck with your interview, Riz!
- Preston
Excellent, excellent video. Perfect explanations.
For some bizarre reason, all the fabric shops in my city only have super 120s and up, and all of them are some kind of cashmere wool blend sometimes with silk too. Sometimes, i just want a sturdy fabric yet it is impossible.
What is the book being shown in the video?
Dont Want ton be too picky buuuuut some of your videos happen to be released juste à few days after hugo jacomet’s. With that Being said once again thats another great video !
Superb video!
A couple of points. Donegal. It's pronounced more like Dunegal. Secondly, in my experience tailors prefer not to use the lightest fabrics because they're harder to work with. Imagine trying to make a suit with tissue paper. Heavier cloth is easier to work with, at least with handmade garments.
‘Done’-‘egg’-‘all’? Is that how you say it? /gen
@@GEJS02 it might be a matter of accent but I'd say it Done-e-gall
Duhnny-gahl’. I lived next door to an Irishman from there.
And whats about cashmere wool? In pakistam the brand lawrencepur makes the best tropical woolen fabrics
Ah, so it's normal that my 'Super' fabric suit doesn't have the big red "S" on the chest...
Isn't this suit too big for you? That's what I was wondering (see 13:45 and forward). Thanks!
A niche subject, but one very well explained. 👌
I definitely prefer a more durable fabric, but I also prefer a more rugged look. I don't mind rough fabrics on my body so I almost never go for something fine and smooth.
yeah i used to have a channel called Super 100s i deleted but i want to recover it
i confused are cashmere worsted??
Excellent video on a very relevant subject. It's bad psychologically to use commonly provided terms i.e. the super numbers without any knowledge of what they mean. Grasping these common but yet usually unknown terms will help men be more confident understanding their wardrobe and therefore more confident in their wardrobe. Thanks as always for being champions in the menswear cause.
This video helped me a lot..
preston, what do you think of charles tyrwhitt's new "top drawer" line? i love this brand
Preston is the ultimate Clark Kent
...and out of the phone box comes Rapha
Has anyone else ever wondered what the quality of wool is from companies like Michael kors, Perry Ellis, and Calvin Klein? Any company that puts out a product that isn’t a super number for that matter. I’d like to know more about these wools since I’d like to know what these companies are producing and how much they are making off it versus what it’s actually worth and the quality difference.
Love the channel, however, at 06:08 the term "late 18th century" for describing this time period is incorrect...Lumb and Sons and the development of "supers" was the late 19th century as the 18th century lasted from January 1, 1701, to December 31, 1800, well before Lumb's time of manufacturing development of wool yarns...
I want to buy a lighter suit for the summer from T.M Lewin, don't know if you've heard of it, its based in the U.K.
I need to choose between a super 110 or 120, which one will be lighter, and less warm, beacause I'm buying online I can't feel the cloth.
Thanks to anyone who will answer
Very informative!
Could you make a video about tools for house work and cars? I think it is a important skill that all men should know.
I think Art of Manliness has some videos on those
been waiting for this, thank you guys!
Thanks! This is awesome!
im thinking 160 super for pants 180 for shirt and 190 for jacket. i really want to sew my own suit, its taking tons of research, hopefully can start sewing in November and finish by xmas.
Did you make it?
with my little understanding...I gathered that answer to what is the best # is that -"it depends" :p
Great video
I really enjoy your content, but I usually get discouraged to watch the video because of the (I believe, perceived) movement of the background due to the change of frames in the shot. It makes me a little seasick, sorry.
Changing of subject, Preston is on fire, well done!
Very good video
Sorry I want to know if you have online shopping ?
Should a wool suit be wrinkles proof?
Gentelman's Gazette!!??
Hello fellow gentlemen
I love this guy
Sorry to be pernickety but Donegal is pronounced more like ‘dunny-gal’ as opposed to ‘donny-gal’. I’ve heard it a few times pronounced incorrectly on here and I’ve always wanted to correct it.
best video ever... love it. respect and well done.
thank you
So, anything over 100 is super?
My custom made suits are super 130s. They are soft and resistant to winkles.
Hey! Good job on the video; that being said, might I suggest more attention or thought be put into the scripting? I just mean to say the narrative feels a bit all over the place rather than smoothly flowing. I am, however, just being picky of course.
120 for everyday and affordable and 140 for someday special. More than sufficient.
"Is a lighter worsted wool better than a heavier weight?" No, it's worse.
It all depends on the environment. For example, I live in Scotland and the colder climate here means that I prefer heavier fabrics. The side-advantage of this is that I get a fantastic drape.
However, if I were ever to decide to pack up and move to the Bahamas, instead of wearing just linens or other summery-fabrics, I might still want to wear a traditional wool suit. However, I would need a lighter weight in fresco in order to have the same amount of 'breathability' in the fabric.
nothing finer than Super 120, anything higher has no hand. I prefer fabric weight, 11 oz, 300 Gr. has the perfect drape
what does it mean hving no hand? English is not my language
11 ounce fabric is 320 to 345 grams. 10 ounce fabric is 290 to 315 grams.
I liked everything...super 120s enough for any ocassion
Super 120 Soft and durable enough for daily use.
Preston is great but you need to put a box under his left leg. It's bit a bit off putting how he stand at an angle.
Small nitpick - the place in Norfolk is spelt Worstead and it's a village, certainly not a city!
Jesus Christ. Are you guys mind readers. Just two hours ago I was looking for a video about the super classification and didn’t find one. Incredible!
He speaks and looks like a school teacher.
please get some monkstraps, Preston!
You certainly can pull off the black suit.
I like my super 80s wool suits
Is that you Kal-el?
😂
Mr kingsmen 😎
The cheap and best you can have is super 120s. Go for them blindfolded..