Haha. I thought I knew everything about wool. I was really wrong. Great addition to the channel. I loved the tweed video and I will be sharing this one as well!
I am looking into getting a super 180 wool fabric suit that is very fitted. I plan on wearing it once, or two times a week for 3 hours each wear. Do you think that this suit will last me a good time?
You are the only 'gentleman' sartorial channel' that goes into this depth; most other channels don't dare go to this historical depth and detail. The Gentleman's Gazette is head and shoulders above the rest!
Good job from Master handspinner. A few minor points. 1. The ‘s’ after a number refers to Bradford count Skeins. Bradford used how many skeins (S) from a pound of wool ( but also we calculate count from silk, linen, cotton using a different constant in the equations) 2. The super wools are Merinos which I believe you mentioned but there are other super fine wools Cormo, Rambouillet to name two. Merino has branded itself as ‘wool’ however it has become a monopoly. Merino is the silk of wools. Not appropriate for all applications. We are losing sheep breeds’ genetics which is bad for all sheep. 200 sheep breeds out there. We in the fiber community are fighting to save rarer breeds. Long wools for example would provide excellent luster and tremendous longevity so great for outerwear. 3. Wools breath which is why they are great even in summer. My husband wears wool jersey tshirts for example. But as you say, if lining is acetate, there goes wonderful quality of wool to wick moisture. Try to line with cotton or linen for summer or some unconstructed jackets unlined. 4. The finer super wools drape but the ‘coarser’ wools hold their body which is why vintage suits used more of those wools. So by buying super wools which are so flimsy you are buying how feels to the touch alone. Those drapy fabrics needs a lot more understructure to get it to have shape. If you had a wool with more ‘body’ less understructure is needed. Make sense? Otherwise great job.
After watching so many GG videos I was able to get a custom 3 piece suit recently. I got it in S150s LP year round fabric. It is super soft to the touch, but since it is so light it doesn't drape as well. I personally don't mind the drape, but it's something to keep in mind.
These are great info sharing videos - as a self-admitted quality fanatic, I appreciate the guidance and the fact that you shared your mix and match of fabrics, complementary colors and patterns, illustrating once more that looking sharp doesn’t have to be a chore.
I'm grateful for this video. Not only will it help me see through any potential marketing ploys, it'll help me better select what's right for me. It seems like I should look for a super 100-120 with a heavier weight and a looser weave. I want the durability, breathe-ability, and the resistance to wrinkles.
Super 120s fit the bill for me. G & H my Savile Row tailor (Davide Taub is the bomb) are making me 3 suits that are in a word exquisite. To me these suits are just as elegant as any higher super designation!
When I have suits made I mainly consider super numbers in the respect of how durable it's going to be. I don't want something too fine because I don't want to wear it out prematurely. With that in mind I like to stick between 100s and 120s
A lower super number is not necessarily sturdier because, as was pointed out, it is not related to threads per inch. Therefore, a low super number may have denser threads but if they are woven somewhat loosely, the yarns can be pulled easily during ordinary use or even during construction.
Greg Crabling - Yes, his suit fits him very well. Aside from using a neck tie for a belt, I like Preston's casual style (sweater, cardi, chinos, loafers).
Great video as always GG! Still... rather disappointing to hear that Preston says his suit fits well. Taking in the center and side seams is a relatively cheap alteration but does wonders for one's fit! It's surprising you haven't done this yet, Preston!
You're absolutely right, Alex; the jacket, while I'd still say that it fits "well" (a fairly vague term, admittedly), could undoubtedly benefit from some alteration. Thanks for your keen eye, and stay tuned for some upcoming content on alterations! :) - Preston
"fits well" is quite genorouse Here. He could fit a small watermellon in his buttoned jacket. Looks like he got it from his big brother. Looking forward to the alterations Video.
Some of the trouble with taking a too athletic cut on jacket sides results in the bottom opening up when buttoned to reveal your tie. I struggle with this balance and tend to leave my suit jackets unbuttoned as it looks slightly less sloppy than having my ties stick out below my suit button.
When i saw the thumbnail for this video I thought it was the one from Sartorial Talks. That video is great as well. I did like a bit of the background on wool that Preston gives.
Can we get a video on Gabadine Fabric maybe as well? I’m really loving these fabric vids as it helps me to understand more when I buy my cloth, though mostly online these days.
I’ve found over the years that modern Super 150s from time tested companies like VBC, LP, Zenga etc. actually held up better than most of my 120s. So now I no longer believe the durability hype
I definitely prefer a more durable fabric, but I also prefer a more rugged look. I don't mind rough fabrics on my body so I almost never go for something fine and smooth.
A couple of points. Donegal. It's pronounced more like Dunegal. Secondly, in my experience tailors prefer not to use the lightest fabrics because they're harder to work with. Imagine trying to make a suit with tissue paper. Heavier cloth is easier to work with, at least with handmade garments.
Excellent video on a very relevant subject. It's bad psychologically to use commonly provided terms i.e. the super numbers without any knowledge of what they mean. Grasping these common but yet usually unknown terms will help men be more confident understanding their wardrobe and therefore more confident in their wardrobe. Thanks as always for being champions in the menswear cause.
Would you consider making a video about espadrilles, would like to implement them into my wardrobe for this summer but still not sure about the do's and don'ts, thanks! Once again great vid!
Dont Want ton be too picky buuuuut some of your videos happen to be released juste à few days after hugo jacomet’s. With that Being said once again thats another great video !
I love the history lesson, how they actual sheep were moved around great info and although I would love to have 180s plus the best I own is 150 and I love it
Outstanding presentation!! Quite informative and equally educational! I have observed a new face at Gentleman's Gazette. If I may, the glasses may need to disappear or simply replaced in order to see the eyes better. Pardon my providing this view. Semper Fi
Has anyone else ever wondered what the quality of wool is from companies like Michael kors, Perry Ellis, and Calvin Klein? Any company that puts out a product that isn’t a super number for that matter. I’d like to know more about these wools since I’d like to know what these companies are producing and how much they are making off it versus what it’s actually worth and the quality difference.
For some bizarre reason, all the fabric shops in my city only have super 120s and up, and all of them are some kind of cashmere wool blend sometimes with silk too. Sometimes, i just want a sturdy fabric yet it is impossible.
Good video. Do you have a video on how to deal with ties? By that I'm referring to. How to store them. Should I hang them from a tie holder, fold\ roll them. What? This is about everyday wear.
I want to buy a lighter suit for the summer from T.M Lewin, don't know if you've heard of it, its based in the U.K. I need to choose between a super 110 or 120, which one will be lighter, and less warm, beacause I'm buying online I can't feel the cloth. Thanks to anyone who will answer
I really enjoy your content, but I usually get discouraged to watch the video because of the (I believe, perceived) movement of the background due to the change of frames in the shot. It makes me a little seasick, sorry. Changing of subject, Preston is on fire, well done!
im thinking 160 super for pants 180 for shirt and 190 for jacket. i really want to sew my own suit, its taking tons of research, hopefully can start sewing in November and finish by xmas.
Love the channel, however, at 06:08 the term "late 18th century" for describing this time period is incorrect...Lumb and Sons and the development of "supers" was the late 19th century as the 18th century lasted from January 1, 1701, to December 31, 1800, well before Lumb's time of manufacturing development of wool yarns...
Sorry to be pernickety but Donegal is pronounced more like ‘dunny-gal’ as opposed to ‘donny-gal’. I’ve heard it a few times pronounced incorrectly on here and I’ve always wanted to correct it.
Hey! Good job on the video; that being said, might I suggest more attention or thought be put into the scripting? I just mean to say the narrative feels a bit all over the place rather than smoothly flowing. I am, however, just being picky of course.
It all depends on the environment. For example, I live in Scotland and the colder climate here means that I prefer heavier fabrics. The side-advantage of this is that I get a fantastic drape. However, if I were ever to decide to pack up and move to the Bahamas, instead of wearing just linens or other summery-fabrics, I might still want to wear a traditional wool suit. However, I would need a lighter weight in fresco in order to have the same amount of 'breathability' in the fabric.
Haha. I thought I knew everything about wool. I was really wrong. Great addition to the channel. I loved the tweed video and I will be sharing this one as well!
I am looking into getting a super 180 wool fabric suit that is very fitted. I plan on wearing it once, or two times a week for 3 hours each wear. Do you think that this suit will last me a good time?
You are the only 'gentleman' sartorial channel' that goes into this depth; most other channels don't dare go to this historical depth and detail. The Gentleman's Gazette is head and shoulders above the rest!
Agreed
Good job from Master handspinner. A few minor points. 1. The ‘s’ after a number refers to Bradford count Skeins. Bradford used how many skeins (S) from a pound of wool ( but also we calculate count from silk, linen, cotton using a different constant in the equations) 2. The super wools are Merinos which I believe you mentioned but there are other super fine wools Cormo, Rambouillet to name two. Merino has branded itself as ‘wool’ however it has become a monopoly. Merino is the silk of wools. Not appropriate for all applications. We are losing sheep breeds’ genetics which is bad for all sheep. 200 sheep breeds out there. We in the fiber community are fighting to save rarer breeds. Long wools for example would provide excellent luster and tremendous longevity so great for outerwear. 3. Wools breath which is why they are great even in summer. My husband wears wool jersey tshirts for example. But as you say, if lining is acetate, there goes wonderful quality of wool to wick moisture. Try to line with cotton or linen for summer or some unconstructed jackets unlined. 4. The finer super wools drape but the ‘coarser’ wools hold their body which is why vintage suits used more of those wools. So by buying super wools which are so flimsy you are buying how feels to the touch alone. Those drapy fabrics needs a lot more understructure to get it to have shape. If you had a wool with more ‘body’ less understructure is needed. Make sense?
Otherwise great job.
After watching so many GG videos I was able to get a custom 3 piece suit recently. I got it in S150s LP year round fabric. It is super soft to the touch, but since it is so light it doesn't drape as well. I personally don't mind the drape, but it's something to keep in mind.
I love the way this gentleman has presented this session, magnificent
These are great info sharing videos - as a self-admitted quality fanatic, I appreciate the guidance and the fact that you shared your mix and match of fabrics, complementary colors and patterns, illustrating once more that looking sharp doesn’t have to be a chore.
You are looking less robotic good job
😮
I'm grateful for this video. Not only will it help me see through any potential marketing ploys, it'll help me better select what's right for me.
It seems like I should look for a super 100-120 with a heavier weight and a looser weave. I want the durability, breathe-ability, and the resistance to wrinkles.
Super 120s fit the bill for me. G & H my Savile Row tailor (Davide Taub is the bomb) are making me 3 suits that are in a word exquisite. To me these suits are just as elegant as any higher super designation!
When I have suits made I mainly consider super numbers in the respect of how durable it's going to be. I don't want something too fine because I don't want to wear it out prematurely. With that in mind I like to stick between 100s and 120s
I'm the same way, I've learnt that Super 120 is too delicate for me
A lower super number is not necessarily sturdier because, as was pointed out, it is not related to threads per inch. Therefore, a low super number may have denser threads but if they are woven somewhat loosely, the yarns can be pulled easily during ordinary use or even during construction.
Very Informative. The Gentleman giving the explanation kept me engaged throughout the video.
Jesus Christ. Are you guys mind readers? Not even two hour ago I was looking for a way to contact you to make exactly this video! Incredible!
No you’re just in the Truman Show.
I am planning on commissioning a MTM suit and this was very helpful. Thank you!
Will you ever make a video to compare english and italien suits? That would be great!
Finally!
Preston started wearing formal and beautiful suits.
Greg Crabling - Yes, his suit fits him very well. Aside from using a neck tie for a belt, I like Preston's casual style (sweater, cardi, chinos, loafers).
Great video as always GG! Still... rather disappointing to hear that Preston says his suit fits well. Taking in the center and side seams is a relatively cheap alteration but does wonders for one's fit! It's surprising you haven't done this yet, Preston!
You're absolutely right, Alex; the jacket, while I'd still say that it fits "well" (a fairly vague term, admittedly), could undoubtedly benefit from some alteration. Thanks for your keen eye, and stay tuned for some upcoming content on alterations! :)
- Preston
"fits well" is quite genorouse Here.
He could fit a small watermellon in his buttoned jacket.
Looks like he got it from his big brother.
Looking forward to the alterations Video.
Some of the trouble with taking a too athletic cut on jacket sides results in the bottom opening up when buttoned to reveal your tie. I struggle with this balance and tend to leave my suit jackets unbuttoned as it looks slightly less sloppy than having my ties stick out below my suit button.
This guy knows his stuff. Thanks for the information.
The Sartorial Talks UA-cam channel also has an excellent video on this.
When i saw the thumbnail for this video I thought it was the one from Sartorial Talks. That video is great as well. I did like a bit of the background on wool that Preston gives.
Thank you!
Can we get a video on Gabadine Fabric maybe as well? I’m really loving these fabric vids as it helps me to understand more when I buy my cloth, though mostly online these days.
Have a couple of Tasmanian super 150s from Hickey Freeman. Really like them
I had an old blazer I thought was made of a blend, but then the label said pure wool super 100s and then I kept it. I am such snob.
Great tutorial on the super numbers.
Absolutely great and very informative video! I just found your channel and I am a subscribed fan! Can’t wait to watch all of your content!
I’ve found over the years that modern Super 150s from time tested companies like VBC, LP, Zenga etc. actually held up better than most of my 120s. So now I no longer believe the durability hype
I definitely prefer a more durable fabric, but I also prefer a more rugged look. I don't mind rough fabrics on my body so I almost never go for something fine and smooth.
A couple of points. Donegal. It's pronounced more like Dunegal. Secondly, in my experience tailors prefer not to use the lightest fabrics because they're harder to work with. Imagine trying to make a suit with tissue paper. Heavier cloth is easier to work with, at least with handmade garments.
‘Done’-‘egg’-‘all’? Is that how you say it? /gen
@@GEJS02 it might be a matter of accent but I'd say it Done-e-gall
Duhnny-gahl’. I lived next door to an Irishman from there.
Excellent video on a very relevant subject. It's bad psychologically to use commonly provided terms i.e. the super numbers without any knowledge of what they mean. Grasping these common but yet usually unknown terms will help men be more confident understanding their wardrobe and therefore more confident in their wardrobe. Thanks as always for being champions in the menswear cause.
I've been waiting for this video my whole life lol
Would you consider making a video about espadrilles,
would like to implement them into my wardrobe for this summer but still not sure about the do's and don'ts, thanks!
Once again great vid!
Excellent video! May I suggest that you film a video discussing different weave (e.g., plain weave, hopsack, twill) of fabrics in the future?
Great suggestion, also maybe a breakdown or history and current relevance of different mills like Zegna, Cannonico, Scabal, Dormeuil, etc.
I second that suggestion
Dont Want ton be too picky buuuuut some of your videos happen to be released juste à few days after hugo jacomet’s. With that Being said once again thats another great video !
Helpful info for those of us who dabble in tailoring, thanks.
Thanks, very informative. Really like the history aspect of the lesson.
من أفضل صانعي المحتوي... تحيه طيبه لك من بلد الحضاره مصر... محمد أبو الفضل
I love the history lesson, how they actual sheep were moved around great info and although I would love to have 180s plus the best I own is 150 and I love it
Outstanding presentation!! Quite informative and equally educational! I have observed a new face at Gentleman's Gazette. If I may, the glasses may need to disappear or simply replaced in order to see the eyes better. Pardon my providing this view. Semper Fi
OMG THANK GOD YOU MADE THIS
Has anyone else ever wondered what the quality of wool is from companies like Michael kors, Perry Ellis, and Calvin Klein? Any company that puts out a product that isn’t a super number for that matter. I’d like to know more about these wools since I’d like to know what these companies are producing and how much they are making off it versus what it’s actually worth and the quality difference.
I don't know if it is the lighting or the glasses, but it makes your eyes look HUGE!
WOW! Wonderful presentation
Excellent, excellent video. Perfect explanations.
Thanks so much for the education !
For some bizarre reason, all the fabric shops in my city only have super 120s and up, and all of them are some kind of cashmere wool blend sometimes with silk too. Sometimes, i just want a sturdy fabric yet it is impossible.
Good video.
Do you have a video on how to deal with ties? By that I'm referring to. How to store them. Should I hang them from a tie holder, fold\ roll them. What? This is about everyday wear.
That jaw line is Killin me!
seriously it looks like he could cut ice with it lol
Could we get a bit more distance between the camera and the speaker?
I love your program so much.
I am wanting to get a hand-made wool suit and the suit maker has 120, 180, and 200 option. Which would be of better quality?
I want to buy a lighter suit for the summer from T.M Lewin, don't know if you've heard of it, its based in the U.K.
I need to choose between a super 110 or 120, which one will be lighter, and less warm, beacause I'm buying online I can't feel the cloth.
Thanks to anyone who will answer
Thanks Preston will you believe that I have an interview in Huddersfield 😃👍🏽
Best of luck with your interview, Riz!
- Preston
I really enjoy your content, but I usually get discouraged to watch the video because of the (I believe, perceived) movement of the background due to the change of frames in the shot. It makes me a little seasick, sorry.
Changing of subject, Preston is on fire, well done!
I need a suit that is a material for winter, but can be comfortable in summer at well. Is there such a thing?
Superb video!
A niche subject, but one very well explained. 👌
Isn't this suit too big for you? That's what I was wondering (see 13:45 and forward). Thanks!
yeah i used to have a channel called Super 100s i deleted but i want to recover it
And whats about cashmere wool? In pakistam the brand lawrencepur makes the best tropical woolen fabrics
This video helped me a lot..
What is the book being shown in the video?
best video ever... love it. respect and well done.
Could you make a video about tools for house work and cars? I think it is a important skill that all men should know.
I think Art of Manliness has some videos on those
Very informative!
For tweed suits, what is it super number .?
nothing finer than Super 120, anything higher has no hand. I prefer fabric weight, 11 oz, 300 Gr. has the perfect drape
what does it mean hving no hand? English is not my language
11 ounce fabric is 320 to 345 grams. 10 ounce fabric is 290 to 315 grams.
been waiting for this, thank you guys!
preston, what do you think of charles tyrwhitt's new "top drawer" line? i love this brand
im thinking 160 super for pants 180 for shirt and 190 for jacket. i really want to sew my own suit, its taking tons of research, hopefully can start sewing in November and finish by xmas.
Did you make it?
Love the channel, however, at 06:08 the term "late 18th century" for describing this time period is incorrect...Lumb and Sons and the development of "supers" was the late 19th century as the 18th century lasted from January 1, 1701, to December 31, 1800, well before Lumb's time of manufacturing development of wool yarns...
My custom made suits are super 130s. They are soft and resistant to winkles.
Ah, so it's normal that my 'Super' fabric suit doesn't have the big red "S" on the chest...
Sorry to be pernickety but Donegal is pronounced more like ‘dunny-gal’ as opposed to ‘donny-gal’. I’ve heard it a few times pronounced incorrectly on here and I’ve always wanted to correct it.
Thanks! This is awesome!
Super 120 Soft and durable enough for daily use.
Should a wool suit be wrinkles proof?
Gentelman's Gazette!!??
120 for everyday and affordable and 140 for someday special. More than sufficient.
Hello fellow gentlemen
Very good video
Great video
i confused are cashmere worsted??
thank you
I love this guy
Hey! Good job on the video; that being said, might I suggest more attention or thought be put into the scripting? I just mean to say the narrative feels a bit all over the place rather than smoothly flowing. I am, however, just being picky of course.
with my little understanding...I gathered that answer to what is the best # is that -"it depends" :p
Preston is the ultimate Clark Kent
...and out of the phone box comes Rapha
Preston is great but you need to put a box under his left leg. It's bit a bit off putting how he stand at an angle.
I liked everything...super 120s enough for any ocassion
Sorry I want to know if you have online shopping ?
Small nitpick - the place in Norfolk is spelt Worstead and it's a village, certainly not a city!
"Is a lighter worsted wool better than a heavier weight?" No, it's worse.
It all depends on the environment. For example, I live in Scotland and the colder climate here means that I prefer heavier fabrics. The side-advantage of this is that I get a fantastic drape.
However, if I were ever to decide to pack up and move to the Bahamas, instead of wearing just linens or other summery-fabrics, I might still want to wear a traditional wool suit. However, I would need a lighter weight in fresco in order to have the same amount of 'breathability' in the fabric.
So, anything over 100 is super?
I like my super 80s wool suits
He speaks and looks like a school teacher.
Is that you Kal-el?
😂
The cheap and best you can have is super 120s. Go for them blindfolded..
Mr kingsmen 😎
You certainly can pull off the black suit.
please get some monkstraps, Preston!
Nice
I miss the real gentlemen