Episode 97 18 Train Detection
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- Опубліковано 10 лип 2024
- G`day Folks,
Here is my train detection system. It is basically an elongated, open reed switch which allows an LED to stay lit far longer than it would with just a simple proprietary reed switch. It is a simple build and extremely cost effective although it is only suitable for hidden areas of track. It is also suitable for either analogue ( DC ) or DCC as it stands alone as a completely independent system to the rail power input.
Here is a link to an episode about straightening wire which is necessary for this system to work.
• Episode 62 17 Straight...
Cheers
Gormo
love the simplicty and the fact it stays on for a couple of seconds.
G`day Richard,
Thanks for your comments.
The system has moved on a bit from this video as it is now installed on my railway.
A link to an update here info starts at 15min:20secs
ua-cam.com/video/Sub04uD-EN4/v-deo.html
Cheers Gormo
Memories of the amazing Alhambra palace ( played by Mr John Williams)
Our daughter was there at Uni ......every evening it's walls are floodlit..........we sat in a beautiful little restaurant surrounded by her hungry friends and she, knowing of the lights coming on, said "wait dad...look". Then pow they came on ...it was a most magical moment.
Gormo ur such an amazing chappy
Well thanks John, but I am not in the same league as John Williams...I wish.
Cheers Gormo
One thing I can suggest is add capacitor so the LED stays on a bit as it leaves one section and enters the next section I love the simplistic idea
Your music reminds me of out of town with Jack Hargreaves , I used to love coming home from school and watching it. I'm also sure some of your followers feel the same 🙂
Ah I wish,
If only I could play like that. Here`s John Williams playing it how it should be done.
ua-cam.com/video/5cx3WggvvZ8/v-deo.html
Cheers
Gormo
Good one Gormo. Looking forward to see the mimic panel built and installed up on the wall.
I like the simplicity of the design and the use of old-school technology too.
Thanks Rick,
I am currently working on the track plan for the panel. Most of it is drawn up when, time permits. I am trying to replicate an old style signal box track plan diagram, so I won`t rush it, but I feel it will suit the room.
Cheers
Gormo
When need meets opportunity and there is a spark of genius at that moment we get an "Open Reed Switch". Very clever. Nice and low tech too (added bonus). Awesome (had to say it).
Thanks for sharing...
No worries R.A.......thanks for your comment.
Cheers
Gormo
If you put a second contact at sleeper level connected to a green LED so that the long wire sits on it when no train is present, you will have a series of green LED's constantly lit on your minic panel to show the system is live and working. When a train passes over a wire, it lifts off the green LED contact and touches your red LED contact, so the green LED on the mimic panel goes off and the red one comes on. Would look really cool,
Cheers, Rich.
Absolute genius.
I do like that idear simple but efective . On my layout I dont have to rely on shuch a system as I can see what my trains are up to on a 360
Thanks for your comment Paul
Cheers Gormo
Quick, simple, very inexpensive - looks like it will work great for indication. Only suggestion is to remember to check the magnets regularly to ensure that they don't pick up any stray metal (track pins, dislodged steps, etc). I really enjoy your videos.
Thanks Dominic,
I`m glad you enjoy the videos.
Yes the down side to this system is the possibility of the magnets attracting stray bits of rubbish. On the other hand, our railways demand some sort of ongoing maintenance, so this is just another one of those regular tasks.
Cheers
Gormo
You are a very clever and inventive man. The system may be as old as the hills but it took your imagination to to turn it into solving your problem.
Barry.Devon.
Thanks Barry.......where there is a will, there is a way.
Cheers
Gormo
I personally use reed switches (I might get to hall-effect switches eventually), but yours is a very nice LOW-tech solution.
You could try using 2 (or more) "bridges", near (but not at) each end. This would stop it lifting too high at the ends, especially for longer lengths; probably provide better electrical connection (just wire the bridges together); would stop any tendency to shift sideways (and short-circuit the rails); and could be used to hold a curved detector on curved track.
Thanks for the tips Ross,
Cheers
Gormo
Gormo. You quoted a gradient in this vid.....I have given myself a problem with my layout....its in the loft and consists of two ovals approx 18' x 8'.....I am hopeless at negative and positive. So two tracks run side by side.
I decided in a mad moment to incline from base level up by 31/2" over about 7'. Locos pull ok ...unless heavily loaded.
The raised section gives me a chance to run a separate track system thru portals around the outside of the large oval to form a " local" track.
I now wish to run a local track inside the oval and go across at the opposite end to the raised track, to an area outside of the oval to form an industrial factory yard. My prob is neg and positive getting across two tracks.
I hope you can understand and help (PLEASE) with my neg/pos problem. Thanks John UK
G`day John,
I`m struggling a bit with visualizing what you mean, however if we get back to basics it may help you.
I would start your calculations from the point where you want to cross over. Therefore at that point, you need a few inches clearance to allow for bridges plus the height of a train ( your tallest train ).
Measure whatever that height is at the point of crossing over, and then work backwards from there to your start point.
The height the track needs to rise divided into the length of the incline should give you and indication of the gradient.....eg..........4 inches height over 96 inches of incline equals 24 ,therefore every 24 inches it rises by 1 inch, which is a bit steep actually.?
You should aim for 1 inch in 30 inches minimum but if you can ease it out to more than 1 in 30 the trains will like it better.
The steepest gradient I have on my railway is 1 in 70, if memory serves me correctly, and that works fine.
Hope this has been of some assistance.
Cheers Gormo
Many thanks Gormo. Very ingenious ! I only have three hidden sidings but over 80 locos so I think I will stick to manually switching a Red LED on/off for each track to indicate track occupation. My other option is to use an optical (IR) system or voltage detection.
Thanks Ray,
Yes there are plenty of options. I think the IR would be ideal as it also is separate to the rail system.
Cheers
Gormo
Simple genius......Gormo you are talented guy .....regards Fred
Thanks Fred,
Sometimes the grey matter works......lol
Cheers
Gormo
Consider getting a large quantity of magnetic reed switches from a place like an electronics surplus store (or new). They are small magnetic switches, like what you have, but they are sealed in a tiny glass tube, and won't tarnish in air, due to being sealed. One supplier I know sells a 20 pack of reed switches for $5 US. At that price, you could place them very frequently, and have a very actively animated mimic board! If you add a capacitor to each one, then each LED will fade slowly as the train passes, so you could even get a semi-persistent indication effect, that fades in a trail behind the locomotive. Best of all, you could paint the reed switch the color of your ballast and place it between sleepers, and it should still work. Hall effect sensors would work too. Completely solid state magnetic sensing. Just don't get the latching type. You can feed the outputs into a device like an Arduino.
Just read that Mr Williams is Australian and by the way our Daughter was at Granada
G`day John,
Yes John Williams is possibly our greatest classical guitarist.
Cheers Gormo
Ingenious!
Thanks Bobby
Cheers
Gormo
Great idea! Could combine this with with an arduino for all sorts of cheap awesomeness!
Very interesting and low-tech. What kind of power supply do you use for this system?
Just an old 12 volt variable analogue train controller
Brilliant.
Thanks Nigel
Cheers
Gormo
in-genius, such a simple idea, looks ok, but works really well. Might have to incorporate on my "O" gauge in the tunnel section........Kev
Give it a go Kev
Cheers
Gormo
Im having a dilemma here, i want to use the bachmann dynamis ultima system but it doesnt have block occupacy detection, is there any add on i can use with the dynamis for pc train automation?
G`day Synthematix,
Unfortunately I have no knowledge of the dynamis ultima system and am unable to help you on your question. Others reading this may be able to chip in with some assistance or alternatively, if you are a member of a railway forum, you could post your question there.
Sorry
Cheers
Gormo
Very nice “how to Gormo”. I have you thought about using “Always open or Always closed” Mercury Read switches, with a timer chip?
G`day Simon,
I am not familiar with the mercury reed switches, however this wire method is so simple I`ll probably stick with it.
I`ll look up mercury reed switches because you`ve aroused my curiosity now..???
Cheers
Gormo
Oh boy oh boy gnr engines
Look mr hornby
I think the hall sensors would be better (and the price for one module with hall sensor is about 50 cents). Mechanical switches are bad idea...
You could make the device longer if you installed more bridges with each bridge connected in parallel
Absolutely cprtrain.....that would definitely work.
Cheers
Gormo
Jeff andio
Use red switches. They are cheap and no physical contact.
Back him 3004 lives csx wars
Steam locos are chimney first 99 % of the time
Ah yes, well there you are you see. !!
Cheers Gormo
Why easy when you can make things complicated !. Just use a REED SWITCH. Done in a few minutes. 17 min of non sense.
I`m glad you enjoyed the video so much.
Thank you for your detailed comments and creative criticism.
Have a great day and Happy New Year!!!!!
Cheers Gormo