Thanks Dave, I made a decision not to patent......I didn`t start out to turn my hobby into a business........I `d rather share the knowledge as I`ve been doing all along. It sits better in my conscience that way. Where would we be if none of us shared anything.???? The hobby would be the poorer for it. Cheers Gormo
Nice to see you ....looking smart as well...and what meticulous and great design and well documented....fantastic I bow to the inventive master ....regards as always fred
The coupling sistem it's amazing!! (I use this chain system too) but maybe if you want to. You can put a hook wire, instead of the closed link into the truck
Hi Gormo. I will tell what I thing I thing it's a fantastic idea you should patent it, well done and keep the ideas coming because if they are all like this one well what can I say. Regards George. P.S. Bloody marvellous..
Fantastic is what I think! Looks so much better than tension locks. Works brilliantly. Cost effective as well. All the hallmarks of a great invention. Thanks for such a brilliantly clear instructional video too. You have now been elevated to the status of LEGEND!
Thanks Malcolm, You are very kind. This has been one of my quiet goals over the years, to conquer the 3 link issue. As I`ve said...it`s a compromise....but I`m happy with the results. Cheers Gormo
Just managed to locate a source for iron chain here in the UK. So ordered 2m of chain for 99pence! 12 2mm magnets for again close to £1 and I will start in my 10 Dapol 16T mineral wagon kits each of which are getting the Gormo 3link system. I will keep you posted. Mal.
@@notmozart1 Hi Dave, sorry to say that I have cleared off all emails form before 2000 to make space in my mailbox and so the receipt has gone. It was likely eBay but they too only show back to 2020 as order history. sorry can't be more helpful at the moment. Mal.
Haven't tried it yet but looks bloody fantastic, I've been looking for something like this for a loooooong time, your a genius man, I hate tension lock couplers with a passion!!!! Kadee ok but these really look the part and cost nothing, awesome, you deserve to be a millionaire for this, so simple but then the best things are, maybe a few things need some fine tuning but so what? to say I'm impressed is a massive understatement, well done, so well done!!!!!
Thanks Keith, I`ve moved on a bit past the method in this video ua-cam.com/video/lWI_gYLYkEk/v-deo.html I now Silver solder the links. Superglue was failing after some good use. And I`ve changed the chain connection to the wagon but basically everything still works the same, however I think there is still room for improvement. The trouble for me is that my little Grandsons don`t quite yet have the fine manual hand control required to shunt wagons easily. So I`ve backed off for the moment until they`re a bit older. This method is really ideally suited to a shunting plank style of layout. It`s not perfect, but it is really nice to use. One of the main criticisms is that you need the hand of God to couple and uncouple. My counter argument to that criticism is that railway yards actually had people who`s job it was to get in between the wagons and connect the coupling. No automatic coupling in real life, yet we want it on our model railways.???? I`m still trying to figure that one out.???? I have seen a guy who made a shunters pole out of wire that passed down through a model figure. That adds a little more realism to the scene and may be worth considering too.??? Anyway Keith, I`m glad you like it and I hope it works for you. All the best Gormo
Couple of suggestions - While the wagon is disassembled I would recommend taking the opportunity to either clean out the wheel bearing holes and oil them slightly or replace them with brass bearings. If necessary replace the wheels with metal wheels. Also trim any moulding lines from the buffer heads and repaint with a mix of black and steel grey.
Thanks Ray, As always....great common sense suggestions, which I will take on board. I`ve just been preoccupied with getting the system to work and overlooking the maintenance as I go. Cheers Gormo
What an excellent solution. Just a thought but would “reverse polarity magnets” pull the coupling chain off the hook so as to overcome doing it by hand??
Amazing neat and tidy and more prototypical looking. If we could work out an automated solution to the shunters pole, then it would be a kay-dee killer!
G'day Dibley, Thanks for your kind words. Yes automation would raise this little coupling up there with the main players, however I have not got the solution yet ? Cheers Gormo
@@greatchesterfordjunction - well if we (your viewers) all keep trying to think of a solution then hopefully some bright spark will come up with one! I really think if we can then it will be a game changer for a lot of railway modellers.
@@dibley1973 G'day Dibley, Yes it pops back into my mind from time to time and I work through the process, but so far no practical solution has presented itself Cheers Gormo Cheers
Ah Thank goodness for those small neo magnets ! Thanks Gormo ! Only snag is that you need some locos dedicated to freight and the rest of the fleet dedicated to passenger stock !
Fantastic patent it now, as a minimum the fixed links, and sized attachments points (staples) Well done, forget the rest it’s the Gormo Coupling System from now on
Yes mate.....we will know.....same thing happened to Brian Kirby......can`t think of the firm at the moment but his idea has been commercialized. Cheers Gormo
Nice one Gormo, I'm going to give it a go myself. What was the chain size you used and the magnet spec so I can order them in the UK? Cheers good sir :)
A great system, not sure if I have the patience to make all the modifications at this stage. However I'm curious about the coupling 'bonus'. For the chain to rise it has to be magnetised to the same polarity as the in-track magnets. I presume that it must be getting residual magnetism from the magnet on the hook end of the truck via the steel weight in the chassis of the truck. Even if the clasp holding the chain is not touching the weight, it may be close enough to magnetise the chain. As for how many magnets you need in the track for it to work, it may be worth checking the polarity of each as they will only repel if the polarity of the in track magnets are the same as that of the chain. Cheers, David
G`day David, I am still working on this system and have just in the last few days changed it slightly, but I am still not 100% happy with everything yet. I will keep tinkering and changing things until I find what I`m looking for. The coupling bonus is really quite simple. The magnet in the track attracts the end of the coupling chain when the chain is directly above the magnet. When a loco starts to push the wagon away from the magnet, the chain end tries not to let go of the magnets attraction and is pulled up at an angle as the wagon is pushed away. At this point the magnetic attraction of the locos coupling hook takes over and draws the coupling chain towards it and connects. Cheers Gormo
Many thanks Gormo, I hadn't considered that possibility. My own position is that most of my trucks are older, a lot of Hornby, Dapol, even some Triang with steel hooks on the coupling. You addressed that problem with Ian (I think it was) in previous post. So I have to replace them for any sort of magnetic uncoupling to work. Cheers, David (by the way I'm in Devonport, Tas)
@@davidpriddle9236 Oh I see, Yes the older stock with a mixture of tension locks can become a little frustrating, especially if you want to do some shunting. In my opinion, the best solution is to standardize the coupling method to give consistency. At this point in time, I think the best coupling available is the Kadee range, but as with any change to couplings, it can become a really big job to convert all your stock. I know Devonport....there used to be a great little Maritime Museum there. Cheers Gormo
@@comencyfi No worries Terence, Yes found it at Spotlight.......take a magnet with you when you`re ready to go, just to make sure the chain is iron core. They all look the same so it`s easy to pick an alloy one which won`t work. Stay safe Cheers Gormo
G`day Bob, Sorry for the late reply. The chain came from Spotlight here in Sydney. www.spotlightstores.com/craft-hobbies/beads-jewellery/beading-tools-accessories/wire-thread/ribtex-jewellery-stringing-straight-oval-chain/BP80125713 Cheers Gormo
I've just been thinking about this and one problem I have thought of is all the rolling stock has to face in one direction only otherwise you end up with 2 chains or no chains as the chain is only on one side of the wagon or coach etc whereas with other systems they can couple either way or have I got it wrong?
Hi Gormo, Brilliant as always, up there with your train detection system. If you placed more powerful magnets in your track, would they uncouple the wagons if you stopped the train over them? On the subject of having different couplings on passenger and freight stock, most of the time your locos are one or the other. When it comes to mixed traffic locos, just dedicate your locos to work one or the other. For example, my class 47 fleet will be split between the two, half with 3 link and half with kadee's (My choice for passenger stock). Can you make a screw coupling? Cheers, Rich
G`day Rich, I tried magnetic uncoupling with this system. If the magnet is strong enough to uncouple, it drags the chain down to the sleepers and lifts the wagon at the other end. Put simply....it doesn`t work. The shunter`s pole is the way to go I`m afraid?. I have not tried yet to make a screw link, however Chris on Platform 1 MRC, is going to try and adapt my 3 link system operation to some O gauge coaches he currently has problems with when coupling. I`m not sure how he`s going with it, but it`s the same principle and I would imagine he`s using screw couplings.? Cheers Gormo
Hi Gormo, Is there a magnet only at the hook end of the wagon, or is there one at the chain end as well? I ask because you seem to have drilled out a 3mm hole for the magnet at both ends of the wagon! Also, it looks like you have mounted the magnet on top of the hook, so is the large hole even needed? Cheers, Rich.
G`day Rich, There is only a magnet at the hook end. On this wagon if you drill through the buffer beam for the hook, most likely the drill will pass through and keep drilling into the floor of the chassis. So then a hole would have to be drilled through the floor so that the magnet could come into contact with the hook. I decided to drill the hole first. The hole at the chain end just means that I have to only drill through the buffer beam. I can then add some glue to the wire from the behind the buffer beam to keep the external side glue free. The magnet is on top of the hook, but the magnet sits down slightly into the floor to make contact with the hook. The method may vary from wagon to wagon depending on how they are made. I have some old Coopercraft where there is plenty of space behind the buffer beam, so a different approach is required. So Rich ....it`s horses for courses. Cheers Gormo
Quite ingenious. I like it. However once I saw you still need a shunters pole it lost a few marks and I can't see the point for me now. I can see the advantages of the system but it isn't enough for me to adopt it. If the 3 links would automatically couple up without a pole and maybe a more powerful track magnet would automatically uncouple things then we'd be on to a winner. The magnet test for automatic coupling was pretty good but it needs to work anywhere. That said, still a great step forward and invention. Rather impressed.
G`day Sparkshot, Well it`s not for everybody obviously but I`m sure some will take it on. An automatic system would indeed be better but we are not there yet. So I`ll keep plugging away it and see how it goes. Cheers Gormo
Seems to me that if you replaced that 4 bar magnet with a DCC controlled electromagnet you might be able to push or pull the chain by varying the polarity?
G`day David, Yes I`ve tried without success so far to find dummy links of the right size. I have considered making some from copper wire but it`s not a priority just yet. The wire hook could be magnetized but I doubt it would have the pull of neodymium magnets. Once the magnet is within range it has a powerful influence on the attracted material. Cheers Gormo
Hi Gormo Do you think the links would automatically couple up to the hook if the wagons run over a standard Peco uncoupling ramp (or a homemade one) ??
Yes Ray, I think that would work, it`s just a matter of the ramp being high enough to place the chain in the zone of attraction. I`m trying to visualize the Peco ramps and I think actually they sit reasonably high off the sleepers.?? The look of the ramp on the railway is another matter..??? Cheers Gormo
I think when the chain is leading the wagon onto the ramp, the chain will be pushed back under the wagon and possibly lift the wagon, depending on the height of the ramp. Even if the wagon does not lift, the chain is drawn away from the hook on the opposite wagon, thereby defeating the coupling / connecting. The Hand of God is often pooh poohed in model railways, however using the shunting pole for this system I think, is easier than magnets or ramps and more prototypical. The pole allows coupling and uncoupling anywhere and is wonderfully simple. This system will never improve though if we don`t have people like yourself Ray, asking questions and pushing boundaries and thinking outside the square. Thanks for your input. Cheers Gormo
Thanks, Gormo. I am in the process of reconstructing my layout, so the ramps issue wouldn't apply but I was thinking of other people who already use Peco/Hornby ramps for tension lock couplings. I don't think I will use the track magnets either. In fact for coaching stock I will use a magnetic system similar to your 3 link system to link the coaches using curved black coated wire (from paper clips) - similar to the Bachmann pipe coupling.
No worries Ray, Yes that`s a good system you`ve got there for your coaches. I`ve recently been asked about a screw link coupling for such a purpose, based on the 3 link concept, but I think your idea is more practical for coaches. I recently tried just a length of wire with a right angle at each end inserted into the screw holes where tension locks were meant to be fitted on coach bogies. It worked fine and looked a lot better than the tension locks, but was only applicable to a fixed rake. The end coaches still needed tension locks. Cheers Gormo
Hi Gormo, We are building a model railway with a diesel loco shed, do you have any tips on led flood lighting. The kit is basically a GM406 Gaugemaster plastic kit but we want to add to realism to it? Like your videos, ingenious coupling system.
Hi TheGizmoBuilder, Obviously LED`s is the way to go. Whether you make your own or buy commercial, that`s up to you. I would search the net for ideas, there`s bound to be someone who has done it. I like to run lights through and old speed controller 12volt. Wire the LED`s for 12 volts and then you can use the speed controller to dim if required. Sometimes the LED`s are too bright for the model, so this helps. Cheers Gormo
One comment - When fitting the Hook - Heat up a staple with a small blowtorch or soldering iron and push into the drilled hole with a pair of pliers then pull out quickly. This will create a rectangular hole of correct size.
Thanks Ray, That`s a good idea, however I think practice on some scrap a few times to get the hang of it before taking hot hook to plastic buffer beam, otherwise yes, this is a good way to go. Cheers Gormo
I've got 3 different types of couplings on my layout and have been looking for a solution. You've solved my dilemma in 1 swoop. Thanks Mate. Tezza
Good on you Tezza !!!
Rip into it mate
Cheers Gormo
Gormo you are just amazing.....Mr Isimbard Kingdom Brunel....would have loved to have you on his team
thanks John UK
Thank you kindly John,
Stay safe
Cheers Gormo
So very cool dude. I’m off to Spotlight tomorrow for chain. Thanks!
Marvellous coupling system Gormo, patent it quick
Thanks Dave,
I made a decision not to patent......I didn`t start out to turn my hobby into a business........I `d rather share the knowledge as I`ve been doing all along.
It sits better in my conscience that way. Where would we be if none of us shared anything.????
The hobby would be the poorer for it.
Cheers
Gormo
You are a very considerate person Gormo, willing to share your ideas for nothing. It's people like you who make this hobby great.
Thanks for your kind words Geoff,
Cheers
Gormo
Awesome!! Glad to see at least one modeller come up with this type of coupling at long last. Well done. Take care...
Thanks John,
Cheers
Gormo
Brilliant Brian, well thought out and executed plan. This certainly works a treat.
Thanks Gary
Cheers
Gormo
Nice to see you ....looking smart as well...and what meticulous and great design and well documented....fantastic I bow to the inventive master ....regards as always fred
Thanks Fred.....you are very kind
Cheers
Gormo
Fantastic system which seems to work well with little cost.
The coupling sistem it's amazing!! (I use this chain system too) but maybe if you want to. You can put a hook wire, instead of the closed link into the truck
Hi Gormo, I'm impressed, cost effective and works well. Cheers Richard
Thanks Richard,
It`s getting there.....still room for improvement I think.??
Cheers
Gormo
These are excellent. I am building a tiny shunting layout ans wanted something better than tension lock but not as complicated as kaydees.
Hi Gormo. I will tell what I thing I thing it's a fantastic idea you should patent it, well done and keep the ideas coming because if they are all like this one well what can I say. Regards George. P.S. Bloody marvellous..
Thanks for your kind remarks George
All the Best
Gormo
Fantastic is what I think! Looks so much better than tension locks. Works brilliantly. Cost effective as well. All the hallmarks of a great invention. Thanks for such a brilliantly clear instructional video too. You have now been elevated to the status of LEGEND!
Thanks Malcolm,
You are very kind.
This has been one of my quiet goals over the years, to conquer the 3 link issue.
As I`ve said...it`s a compromise....but I`m happy with the results.
Cheers Gormo
Just managed to locate a source for iron chain here in the UK. So ordered 2m of chain for 99pence! 12 2mm magnets for again close to £1 and I will start in my 10 Dapol 16T mineral wagon kits each of which are getting the Gormo 3link system. I will keep you posted. Mal.
@@malcolmhodgson7540 where did you get the chain in the u.k. please? Cheers, Dave
@@notmozart1 Hi Dave, sorry to say that I have cleared off all emails form before 2000 to make space in my mailbox and so the receipt has gone. It was likely eBay but they too only show back to 2020 as order history. sorry can't be more helpful at the moment. Mal.
@@malcolmhodgson7540 Hi Mal, No worries mate - thanks for trying. Dave
Haven't tried it yet but looks bloody fantastic, I've been looking for something like this for a loooooong time, your a genius man, I hate tension lock couplers with a passion!!!! Kadee ok but these really look the part and cost nothing, awesome, you deserve to be a millionaire for this, so simple but then the best things are, maybe a few things need some fine tuning but so what? to say I'm impressed is a massive understatement, well done, so well done!!!!!
Thanks Keith,
I`ve moved on a bit past the method in this video
ua-cam.com/video/lWI_gYLYkEk/v-deo.html
I now Silver solder the links. Superglue was failing after some good use.
And I`ve changed the chain connection to the wagon but basically everything still works the same, however I think there is still room for improvement. The trouble for me is that my little Grandsons don`t quite yet have the fine manual hand control required to shunt wagons easily. So I`ve backed off for the moment until they`re a bit older.
This method is really ideally suited to a shunting plank style of layout.
It`s not perfect, but it is really nice to use. One of the main criticisms is that you need the hand of God to couple and uncouple.
My counter argument to that criticism is that railway yards actually had people who`s job it was to get in between the wagons and connect the coupling. No automatic coupling in real life, yet we want it on our model railways.????
I`m still trying to figure that one out.????
I have seen a guy who made a shunters pole out of wire that passed down through a model figure. That adds a little more realism to the scene and may be worth considering too.???
Anyway Keith, I`m glad you like it and I hope it works for you.
All the best
Gormo
Couple of suggestions - While the wagon is disassembled I would recommend taking the opportunity to either clean out the wheel bearing holes and oil them slightly or replace them with brass bearings. If necessary replace the wheels with metal wheels. Also trim any moulding lines from the buffer heads and repaint with a mix of black and steel grey.
Thanks Ray,
As always....great common sense suggestions, which I will take on board.
I`ve just been preoccupied with getting the system to work and overlooking the maintenance as I go.
Cheers Gormo
Another invention to help progress model railways. Good on yer Gormo.
Barry.Devon
Thanks Barry,
All in a good cause
Cheers
Gormo
What an excellent solution. Just a thought but would “reverse polarity magnets” pull the coupling chain off the hook so as to overcome doing it by hand??
Amazing neat and tidy and more prototypical looking. If we could work out an automated solution to the shunters pole, then it would be a kay-dee killer!
G'day Dibley,
Thanks for your kind words.
Yes automation would raise this little coupling up there with the main players, however I have not got the solution yet ?
Cheers Gormo
@@greatchesterfordjunction - well if we (your viewers) all keep trying to think of a solution then hopefully some bright spark will come up with one!
I really think if we can then it will be a game changer for a lot of railway modellers.
@@dibley1973 G'day Dibley,
Yes it pops back into my mind from time to time and I work through the process, but so far no practical solution has presented itself
Cheers Gormo
Cheers
Brilliant 👍
Ah Thank goodness for those small neo magnets ! Thanks Gormo ! Only snag is that you need some locos dedicated to freight and the rest of the fleet dedicated to passenger stock !
Yes that`s true Ray but I can work around that some how.?
Maybe I`ll just have to buy more trains?????......now there`s an idea...LOL
Cheers
Gormo
Or just use a parcel van with a 3 link coupling on one end and a tension lock coupling on the other !
Yes Ray.....that`s a possible solution worth consideration....Thank you
Cheers
gormo
Fantastic patent it now, as a minimum the fixed links, and sized attachments points (staples)
Well done, forget the rest it’s the Gormo Coupling System from now on
Hi 1BCamden
I was just replying to Dave below and saying, I`m happy just to share the info.
Not interested in a patent.
Glad you like it.
Cheers
Gormo
Great Chesterford Junction Model Railway
I know, but it will take off, at least we will know haha.
Great result, thanks again
Yes mate.....we will know.....same thing happened to Brian Kirby......can`t think of the firm at the moment but his idea has been commercialized.
Cheers
Gormo
This is genius! I may have to try it with some electromagnets in the track...
Brilliant
Thanks John
Cheers
Gormo
Nice one Gormo, I'm going to give it a go myself. What was the chain size you used and the magnet spec so I can order them in the UK? Cheers good sir :)
A great system, not sure if I have the patience to make all the modifications at this stage. However I'm curious about the coupling 'bonus'. For the chain to rise it has to be magnetised to the same polarity as the in-track magnets. I presume that it must be getting residual magnetism from the magnet on the hook end of the truck via the steel weight in the chassis of the truck. Even if the clasp holding the chain is not touching the weight, it may be close enough to magnetise the chain. As for how many magnets you need in the track for it to work, it may be worth checking the polarity of each as they will only repel if the polarity of the in track magnets are the same as that of the chain. Cheers, David
G`day David,
I am still working on this system and have just in the last few days changed it slightly, but I am still not 100% happy with everything yet. I will keep tinkering and changing things until I find what I`m looking for.
The coupling bonus is really quite simple. The magnet in the track attracts the end of the coupling chain when the chain is directly above the magnet. When a loco starts to push the wagon away from the magnet, the chain end tries not to let go of the magnets attraction and is pulled up at an angle as the wagon is pushed away. At this point the magnetic attraction of the locos coupling hook takes over and draws the coupling chain towards it and connects.
Cheers Gormo
Many thanks Gormo, I hadn't considered that possibility.
My own position is that most of my trucks are older, a lot of Hornby, Dapol, even some Triang with steel hooks on the coupling. You addressed that problem with Ian (I think it was) in previous post. So I have to replace them for any sort of magnetic uncoupling to work.
Cheers,
David
(by the way I'm in Devonport, Tas)
@@davidpriddle9236 Oh I see,
Yes the older stock with a mixture of tension locks can become a little frustrating, especially if you want to do some shunting.
In my opinion, the best solution is to standardize the coupling method to give consistency.
At this point in time, I think the best coupling available is the Kadee range, but as with any change to couplings, it can become a really big job to convert all your stock.
I know Devonport....there used to be a great little Maritime Museum there.
Cheers Gormo
Many thanks again Gormo, Mmm! much food for thought.
The maritime museum is still here.
Cheers,
David
@@davidpriddle9236 Ah!!
Glad to hear the museum is still going......it`s a terrific display and well worth a visit.
Cheers Gormo
Fantastic thanks for sharing. but where can you get steel chain that size?
Er Thanks Gormo. s ee it is from spotlight. I think ther is one near me at Raymond terace Cheers its a great idea.
@@comencyfi No worries Terence,
Yes found it at Spotlight.......take a magnet with you when you`re ready to go, just to make sure the chain is iron core. They all look the same so it`s easy to pick an alloy one which won`t work.
Stay safe
Cheers Gormo
Perhaps many have already, but I have to ask; where did the chain come from? Thanks Gormo. Bob
G`day Bob,
Sorry for the late reply.
The chain came from Spotlight here in Sydney.
www.spotlightstores.com/craft-hobbies/beads-jewellery/beading-tools-accessories/wire-thread/ribtex-jewellery-stringing-straight-oval-chain/BP80125713
Cheers
Gormo
I've just been thinking about this and one problem I have thought of is all the rolling stock has to face in one direction only otherwise you end up with 2 chains or no chains as the chain is only on one side of the wagon or coach etc whereas with other systems they can couple either way or have I got it wrong?
You are correct Keith,
The wagons all face the one direction, that`s why the system is better suited to a shunting plank.
Cheers
Gormo
Hi Gormo,
Brilliant as always, up there with your train detection system. If you placed more powerful magnets in your track, would they uncouple the wagons if you stopped the train over them?
On the subject of having different couplings on passenger and freight stock, most of the time your locos are one or the other. When it comes to mixed traffic locos, just dedicate your locos to work one or the other. For example, my class 47 fleet will be split between the two, half with 3 link and half with kadee's (My choice for passenger stock). Can you make a screw coupling?
Cheers, Rich
G`day Rich,
I tried magnetic uncoupling with this system. If the magnet is strong enough to uncouple, it drags the chain down to the sleepers and lifts the wagon at the other end. Put simply....it doesn`t work. The shunter`s pole is the way to go I`m afraid?.
I have not tried yet to make a screw link, however Chris on Platform 1 MRC, is going to try and adapt my 3 link system operation to some O gauge coaches he currently has problems with when coupling. I`m not sure how he`s going with it, but it`s the same principle and I would imagine he`s using screw couplings.?
Cheers
Gormo
Hi Gormo,
Is there a magnet only at the hook end of the wagon, or is there one at the chain end as well? I ask because you seem to have drilled out a 3mm hole for the magnet at both ends of the wagon! Also, it looks like you have mounted the magnet on top of the hook, so is the large hole even needed?
Cheers, Rich.
G`day Rich,
There is only a magnet at the hook end. On this wagon if you drill through the buffer beam for the hook, most likely the drill will pass through and keep drilling into the floor of the chassis. So then a hole would have to be drilled through the floor so that the magnet could come into contact with the hook. I decided to drill the hole first.
The hole at the chain end just means that I have to only drill through the buffer beam. I can then add some glue to the wire from the behind the buffer beam to keep the external side glue free.
The magnet is on top of the hook, but the magnet sits down slightly into the floor to make contact with the hook.
The method may vary from wagon to wagon depending on how they are made. I have some old Coopercraft where there is plenty of space behind the buffer beam, so a different approach is required.
So Rich ....it`s horses for courses.
Cheers Gormo
Quite ingenious. I like it. However once I saw you still need a shunters pole it lost a few marks and I can't see the point for me now. I can see the advantages of the system but it isn't enough for me to adopt it. If the 3 links would automatically couple up without a pole and maybe a more powerful track magnet would automatically uncouple things then we'd be on to a winner. The magnet test for automatic coupling was pretty good but it needs to work anywhere.
That said, still a great step forward and invention. Rather impressed.
G`day Sparkshot,
Well it`s not for everybody obviously but I`m sure some will take it on. An automatic system would indeed be better but we are not there yet.
So I`ll keep plugging away it and see how it goes.
Cheers Gormo
Seems to me that if you replaced that 4 bar magnet with a DCC controlled electromagnet you might be able to push or pull the chain by varying the polarity?
Truly innovative. How about dummy links on the hook only side and instead of separate magnet - magnetise the wire hook.
G`day David,
Yes I`ve tried without success so far to find dummy links of the right size. I have considered making some from copper wire but it`s not a priority just yet. The wire hook could be magnetized but I doubt it would have the pull of neodymium magnets. Once the magnet is within range it has a powerful influence on the attracted material.
Cheers
Gormo
Hi Gormo
Do you think the links would automatically couple up to the hook if the wagons run over a standard Peco uncoupling ramp (or a homemade one) ??
Yes Ray,
I think that would work, it`s just a matter of the ramp being high enough to place the chain in the zone of attraction. I`m trying to visualize the Peco ramps and I think actually they sit reasonably high off the sleepers.??
The look of the ramp on the railway is another matter..???
Cheers
Gormo
I think they are high enough. It all depends on whether the "chain" will pass over the ramp freely in both directions without derailing the wagon?
I think when the chain is leading the wagon onto the ramp, the chain will be pushed back under the wagon and possibly lift the wagon, depending on the height of the ramp. Even if the wagon does not lift, the chain is drawn away from the hook on the opposite wagon, thereby defeating the coupling / connecting.
The Hand of God is often pooh poohed in model railways, however using the shunting pole for this system I think, is easier than magnets or ramps and more prototypical.
The pole allows coupling and uncoupling anywhere and is wonderfully simple.
This system will never improve though if we don`t have people like yourself Ray, asking questions and pushing boundaries and thinking outside the square.
Thanks for your input.
Cheers
Gormo
Thanks, Gormo. I am in the process of reconstructing my layout, so the ramps issue wouldn't apply but I was thinking of other people who already use Peco/Hornby ramps for tension lock couplings. I don't think I will use the track magnets either. In fact for coaching stock I will use a magnetic system similar to your 3 link system to link the coaches using curved black coated wire (from paper clips) - similar to the Bachmann pipe coupling.
No worries Ray,
Yes that`s a good system you`ve got there for your coaches.
I`ve recently been asked about a screw link coupling for such a purpose, based on the 3 link concept, but I think your idea is more practical for coaches.
I recently tried just a length of wire with a right angle at each end inserted into the screw holes where tension locks were meant to be fitted on coach bogies. It worked fine and looked a lot better than the tension locks, but was only applicable to a fixed rake. The end coaches still needed tension locks.
Cheers Gormo
Hi Gormo, We are building a model railway with a diesel loco shed, do you have any tips on led flood lighting. The kit is basically a GM406 Gaugemaster plastic kit but we want to add to realism to it?
Like your videos, ingenious coupling system.
Hi TheGizmoBuilder,
Obviously LED`s is the way to go. Whether you make your own or buy commercial, that`s up to you. I would search the net for ideas, there`s bound to be someone who has done it. I like to run lights through and old speed controller 12volt. Wire the LED`s for 12 volts and then you can use the speed controller to dim if required.
Sometimes the LED`s are too bright for the model, so this helps.
Cheers Gormo
Cheers Gormo, much appreciated
Good on ya Gormo, well done, but much too complicated and time consuming for an octagenarian like myself.
Thanks Ron,
Take care and carry on.
Cheers
Gormo
One comment - When fitting the Hook - Heat up a staple with a small blowtorch or soldering iron and push into the drilled hole with a pair of pliers then pull out quickly. This will create a rectangular hole of correct size.
Thanks Ray,
That`s a good idea, however I think practice on some scrap a few times to get the hang of it before taking hot hook to plastic buffer beam, otherwise yes, this is a good way to go.
Cheers Gormo