Dry pack is my preferred method. Nothing beats the customization option. I am glad you found the explanation useful. I will keep trying to make useful content like this.
I like to use Custom light weight LFT mortar. It does not slack even when fairly loose. It also has a good bond on wood. Most importantly, it takes a lot of force to compress it since it is designed for large format tile. This really helps when you need some resistance as you try to level the wall perfectly plum. Any LFT mortar should work.
Interesting. Yes it is also an uncoupling membrane but the main purpose of the board is to act as a form of waterproofing. Shower enclosures need some kind of waterproofing before the tile is installed. There are many different kinds and types. This one is broadly classified as foamboard with a fleece sheet membrane attached. The shower pan has a sheet membrane as well as all the punctures and changes of plain. Together the entire area is 100% waterproof per TCNA guidelines. Hope this helps clarify things.
Generally when I do demolition of really old showers this is true. I do not disagree with this. Schluter recommends this as the installation so that is what we do. Simple as that. If they over-engineer the shower prep that is entirely on them. My experience with these products has been mostly positive so for now, I will continue to follow best practices. @StarTile I really enjoy your videos by the way. I am honored to get a comment from you. You do great work.
Appreciated seeing the dry pack concrete shower pan going in. Thanks for your explanations at each step.
Dry pack is my preferred method. Nothing beats the customization option. I am glad you found the explanation useful. I will keep trying to make useful content like this.
Very impressive
What kind of mortar do you recommend to put on the studs to help with getting it flush& square?
I like to use Custom light weight LFT mortar. It does not slack even when fairly loose. It also has a good bond on wood. Most importantly, it takes a lot of force to compress it since it is designed for large format tile. This really helps when you need some resistance as you try to level the wall perfectly plum. Any LFT mortar should work.
Is that necessary for walls and ceiling? I thought isolation membrane is mainly to prevent cracks over plywood or slab
Interesting. Yes it is also an uncoupling membrane but the main purpose of the board is to act as a form of waterproofing. Shower enclosures need some kind of waterproofing before the tile is installed. There are many different kinds and types. This one is broadly classified as foamboard with a fleece sheet membrane attached. The shower pan has a sheet membrane as well as all the punctures and changes of plain. Together the entire area is 100% waterproof per TCNA guidelines.
Hope this helps clarify things.
Hanging wall paper sucks...plus 💯 overkill. Showers fail ankle below... PERIOD
Generally when I do demolition of really old showers this is true. I do not disagree with this. Schluter recommends this as the installation so that is what we do. Simple as that. If they over-engineer the shower prep that is entirely on them. My experience with these products has been mostly positive so for now, I will continue to follow best practices. @StarTile I really enjoy your videos by the way. I am honored to get a comment from you. You do great work.