Hey Carsten, I know you do fine artwork for a living. What I don't know, is where you find the time and energy, to make all these great helpful videos. Everything from these beginners how to stuff videos, to full blown paint this like a pro, 3 and 4 part videos. You're awesome, I truly appreciate all your work and the help you give to all of us, that are into airbrushing. I just wanted to again say Thank You !
Everyday at work I am tearing apart and assembling machinery held together by nuts and bolts. After 20+ years doing that, here are my tips to keep threads healthy and happy: 1. Clean the threads before assembly, seriously, I've seen some hardened steel bolts refuse to co-operate because of some minor debris in the threads. An airbrush is made from far softer material so it takes far less to damage the threads. 2. Lubricate the threads, as Carsten pointed out in this video, beeswax is fantastic for your airbrush, vaseline is jolly good too. Now the pros of lubing the threads: a:) You need less force (torque) to get the same amount of tightness versus dry threads. b:) It will keep foreign material from entering the threads, in the case of airbrushing, paint, solvents etc. c:) Next time you stip down your airbrush for cleaning, see a:), less force needed. d:) Less stress on the threads tearing things apart and assembling again multiple times, good for your airbrush, right 😉 Hope this little rant helps, Cheers.
Thank you SO much for your comment and professional tips I am certain this info will help many viewers and you summed it up better than I ever could so thank you so much for sharing your knowledge 👍🏻👍🏻
I'll say it again, I wish I had your videos when I started using airbrushes, I still remember getting bubbles in the cup without knowing why. Bee's wax or lip balm is definitely the key, specially in not so high quality airbrushes where the threading does not fit perfectly. Also I remember the many tips I broke of my first airbrush by overtightening to avoid bubbling before resorting to wax, content like yours help new people to avoid such things. 👍
Watching this makes me very glad I bought a H&S Evolution. The nozzle and protector require no tools to remove and therefore cleaning is very easy. Maybe the H&S have other drawbacks compared to Iwata brushes, but this difference seems like it would be quite harsh on an airbrush newbie such as myself. Also, the nozzle on the H&S Evolution doesn't screw into the airbrush, but instead sits inside the protector (which screws into the airbrush), so no worries about the soft metal of the nozzle breaking and getting stuck inside the airbrush.
I like to use a sharpened bamboo skewer or toothpick to clean paint from nozzles. Dip it in cleaner and insert, less chance of scratching or flaring nozzle.
The beeswax I have is in a large chunk which you can get from most craft and hardware stores, I just run the nozzles thread on the beeswax, you only need the tiniest amount …I believe it’s just pure beeswax . Hope that helps 👍🏻
Hello, Very interesting subject and clear tutorial. Personaly I often use red tamiya nozzle sealing paste (from airbrush cleaning set) and apply a very small amount of it on the nozzle thread with a toothpick, it works nicely (taking care not to introduce sealing paste inside the nozzle). On other time I tried using beeswax (my brother having hives at home gave me some embossed beeswax sheets), it worked well too but was a bit difficult to mix with fingers and roll in a very small quantity as needed. Once applied to the thread and to the joint with the adjoining part I briefly passed it over the flame of a lighter, then the wax liquefied and ran evenly around the nozzle seal, this achieved a very good seal. Yes, an additive oil would be helpful to soften the wax but which one?
Thank you for sharing your experience and that Tamiya sealer sounds like the reddish sealer that appears on most brushes (as shown in this vid) so great to hear that it is available and thanks again for your comment 👍🏻
Does that Iwata nozzle tool work on other brands such as the Creos ps 771 0.18mm nozzle? It looks awesome, and I just broke my nozzle 5 mins after unboxing not realising it was so fragile.
TINY nozzle trick... Raise your hand if you've ever "misplaced" a nozzle! Or had one "jump" out of tweezers! The thread size on most nozzles is M2. Just search Amazon for "knurled brass nut" & you'll find lots of options. I have some for 3D prints. They're pretty aggressively knurled so that they stay in place once installed. When I take my nozzle off, while it's still in the Iwata wrench, I'll thread one of the nuts (8mm long) onto the nozzle. There are a couple benefits. The biggest is... well it makes the nozzle a bit bigger! And yellow! This means it's easier to grip, to clean, & easier to visually keep track of. When I'm ready to reassemble everything, I just put the nozzle back into the Iwata wrench, unscrew the nut, & screw the nozzle back to the airbrush. I've not "misplaced" a nozzle since I started doing this.
The day I got my sparmax I managed to break the thread of the nozzle in two when unscrewing it, can attest to that wrench being a dangerous tool. Whenever I have to use it not I made sure that all the force is going into turning it around the axis of the nozzle and it's not forcing the nozzle thread to bend slightly, and a hair above finger tight is enough for mine with the rubber o ring
Find all the tips you give so helf and easy to follow thanks Can I ask if possible if you could do a swan stencil on the water with reflection and a tree and tips on how to put it together in detail as I would like to create the swan love image for my parents golden wedding anniversary many Thanks
For the Iwata wretch, some of the questions and reviews say that the wrench is not compatible with the Iwata Eclipse series. The first review pic shows the product description even. Aren't you demonstrating the wrench on an Eclipse? Can you verify if it works to safely remove the nozzle? Thanks!
FYI, when putting the nozzle on, put in your needle, push it in and let 1/2” stick out the tip, place nozzle on needle and push on nozzle and needle to insert the nozzle into the threads on front of Airbrush, it lets the needle start the nozzle straight into the threads, less dropping the nozzle as well!
I have a cordless brush and I tried the little tool and snapped the nozzle tip on accident. I replaced it with another and now I'm afraid to attempt to take the nozzle off again lol 😂
I abused a Richpen 112b for years (just using ink for art pieces) - dug it out - the nozzle was almost burned out and the trigger was so corroded it actually snapped. So I got an Iwata Revolution - its nice - bigger reservoir - great for mixing Tamiya paints) but the action is nowhere near as good. Is there some way to adjust the Iwata to have a more subtle action?
Thanks for your comment you will find that after extended use your iwata will become smoother , feel free to also check out this vid for adjusting trigger tension 👉🏻 ua-cam.com/video/2rD3vqeZEg8/v-deo.html hope that helps 👍🏻
A heightened (extended) trigger creates a longer, more gradual withdrawal of the needle from the nozzle. I chopped one of mine halfway up with a Dremel cutting wheel, roughed up the involved surfaces a bit and spliced (soldered) a sleeve of square tubing into place, heightening the shaft of the trigger about 1/4 inch. An easier but uglier and less permanent solution, (one I used before modifying one of my triggers) was to simply heighten the finger pad of the trigger with a small (1/2 round) rubber pad with adhesive on it. The kind commonly used behind the bottom corners of picture frames. Cheap and effective but as noted, not awfully enduring.
But, Iwata says we should NEVER unscrew the silver nozzle tip from the brass floating base on the Eclipse. From their website: "For Iwata Eclipse airbrushes (compression fit nozzle): The nozzle (4) for the Eclipse BS, SBS and CS is a set and SHOULD NEVER BE SEPARATED."
Little lifehack: Don't remove the needle from the back. First, take out the nozzle, next - push the needle forward. That prevents paint from getting into the air valve. And thus you will need less cleaning.
2:28... 'Once you feel it grab'... These threads are static, not dynamic and these tips also have a lip on them at the thread's end. Once snug, a quarter turn (90°) on such a small delicate part is far too much.
Thanks for sharing ….that is news to me 😱 luckily there is really no need to pull them apart, but I can also assure you I have had my eclipses for years and have removed both parts of the nozzle numerous times and the brush has never failed me 👍🏻
I disagree and have also spoken with Iwata techs on several occasions over my career and none has ever mentioned what you claim. To the contrary, components that aren't crimped, soldered or welded together to become essentially 'one part' can be dismantled and reassembled endlessly if common sense, mechanical aptitude and the proper tools/practices are employed. This concept, along with high quality materials and great tolerance standards are Hallmark of any well engineered mechanical products.
This Iwata hpcs is a waste of money. Mine bubbles in the cup. Tried bees wax , Teflon tape. Full complete cleaning and still bubbles in the cup. Nozzle is brand new. Through this Iwata in the garbage. Last one I ever buy!
💥 New to Airbrushing ? Take a look at these 5 Tips that will help 👉ua-cam.com/video/Bey2fy-pzAE/v-deo.html
Hey Carsten, I know you do fine artwork for a living. What I don't know, is where you find the time and energy, to make all these great helpful videos. Everything from these beginners how to stuff videos, to full blown paint this like a pro, 3 and 4 part videos. You're awesome, I truly appreciate all your work and the help you give to all of us, that are into airbrushing. I just wanted to again say Thank You !
Everyday at work I am tearing apart and assembling machinery held together by nuts and bolts. After 20+ years doing that, here are my tips to keep threads healthy and happy:
1. Clean the threads before assembly, seriously, I've seen some hardened steel bolts refuse to co-operate because of some minor debris in the threads. An airbrush is made from far softer material so it takes far less to damage the threads.
2. Lubricate the threads, as Carsten pointed out in this video, beeswax is fantastic for your airbrush, vaseline is jolly good too. Now the pros of lubing the threads:
a:) You need less force (torque) to get the same amount of tightness versus dry threads.
b:) It will keep foreign material from entering the threads, in the case of airbrushing, paint, solvents etc.
c:) Next time you stip down your airbrush for cleaning, see a:), less force needed.
d:) Less stress on the threads tearing things apart and assembling again multiple times, good for your airbrush, right 😉
Hope this little rant helps,
Cheers.
Thank you SO much for your comment and professional tips I am certain this info will help many viewers and you summed it up better than I ever could so thank you so much for sharing your knowledge 👍🏻👍🏻
I'll say it again, I wish I had your videos when I started using airbrushes, I still remember getting bubbles in the cup without knowing why. Bee's wax or lip balm is definitely the key, specially in not so high quality airbrushes where the threading does not fit perfectly. Also I remember the many tips I broke of my first airbrush by overtightening to avoid bubbling before resorting to wax, content like yours help new people to avoid such things. 👍
Thank you so much for your comment and kind words and glad my videos are helping you out 👍🏻🙏🏻
Very good tips. I usually apply vaseline or lip balm to seal nozzle properly.
Yes , whatever works I have been using beeswax ever since I can remember and it’s always worked for me 👍🏻
Watching this makes me very glad I bought a H&S Evolution. The nozzle and protector require no tools to remove and therefore cleaning is very easy. Maybe the H&S have other drawbacks compared to Iwata brushes, but this difference seems like it would be quite harsh on an airbrush newbie such as myself. Also, the nozzle on the H&S Evolution doesn't screw into the airbrush, but instead sits inside the protector (which screws into the airbrush), so no worries about the soft metal of the nozzle breaking and getting stuck inside the airbrush.
I like to use a sharpened bamboo skewer or toothpick to clean paint from nozzles. Dip it in cleaner and insert, less chance of scratching or flaring nozzle.
Yes, fantastic suggestion thanks for sharing 👍🏻👍🏻
Th very BEST tutorial I've seen on the anatomy of an airbrush and how to service it ! Thank you.👍👍
Thanks for the video! I bought a Iwata Revolution and love it. The tips are much appreciated!
Thank you and that’s great the revolutions are great and glad you found this video helpful 👍🏻
Great tips .I have the Hp-CS.I love it but do have those occasional bubbles .Thanks for the tip.
Great video thanks,
Can you prevent tip drying by putting clear water through every so often or is there any other way?
Thanks for all the tips! You recommended beeswax, how do you go about applying it? Is it just pure beeswax or is it mixed with an oil? Thanks!
The beeswax I have is in a large chunk which you can get from most craft and hardware stores, I just run the nozzles thread on the beeswax, you only need the tiniest amount …I believe it’s just pure beeswax . Hope that helps 👍🏻
Hello,
Very interesting subject and clear tutorial.
Personaly I often use red tamiya nozzle sealing paste (from airbrush cleaning set) and apply a very small amount of it on the nozzle thread with a toothpick, it works nicely (taking care not to introduce sealing paste inside the nozzle).
On other time I tried using beeswax (my brother having hives at home gave me some embossed beeswax sheets), it worked well too but was a bit difficult to mix with fingers and roll in a very small quantity as needed.
Once applied to the thread and to the joint with the adjoining part I briefly passed it over the flame of a lighter, then the wax liquefied and ran evenly around the nozzle seal, this achieved a very good seal.
Yes, an additive oil would be helpful to soften the wax but which one?
Thank you for sharing your experience and that Tamiya sealer sounds like the reddish sealer that appears on most brushes (as shown in this vid) so great to hear that it is available and thanks again for your comment 👍🏻
Hi there, thanks for the tips. I’m now getting continual spattering from my eclipse Cs . Any ideas what to look at first.
Thank you!
I use an ultrasonic tank to clean all gun parts - it is very effective at cleaning and clearing residual pain from the air brush.
Does that Iwata nozzle tool work on other brands such as the Creos ps 771 0.18mm nozzle?
It looks awesome, and I just broke my nozzle 5 mins after unboxing not realising it was so fragile.
TINY nozzle trick... Raise your hand if you've ever "misplaced" a nozzle! Or had one "jump" out of tweezers!
The thread size on most nozzles is M2. Just search Amazon for "knurled brass nut" & you'll find lots of options. I have some for 3D prints. They're pretty aggressively knurled so that they stay in place once installed.
When I take my nozzle off, while it's still in the Iwata wrench, I'll thread one of the nuts (8mm long) onto the nozzle. There are a couple benefits. The biggest is... well it makes the nozzle a bit bigger! And yellow! This means it's easier to grip, to clean, & easier to visually keep track of.
When I'm ready to reassemble everything, I just put the nozzle back into the Iwata wrench, unscrew the nut, & screw the nozzle back to the airbrush. I've not "misplaced" a nozzle since I started doing this.
OK I got one big question does a packing needle nessary I'm curious about buying it
The day I got my sparmax I managed to break the thread of the nozzle in two when unscrewing it, can attest to that wrench being a dangerous tool. Whenever I have to use it not I made sure that all the force is going into turning it around the axis of the nozzle and it's not forcing the nozzle thread to bend slightly, and a hair above finger tight is enough for mine with the rubber o ring
thank you thank you mate 🖖😇😁
No probs happy it helped 👍🏻
I have several airbrushes that don't have any markings at all. How do I measure them to determine what sizes they are? Thank you!
Great video very interesting
Find all the tips you give so helf and easy to follow thanks
Can I ask if possible if you could do a swan stencil on the water with reflection and a tree and tips on how to put it together in detail as I would like to create the swan love image for my parents golden wedding anniversary many Thanks
I used a toothpick to extract the broken nozzle base that was stuck in the threading. It seated well and didn’t mar the threads
Excellent glad it worked for you 👍🏻👍🏻
What role does the cap on the paint cup serve (if any)?
I find it easier to hold the nozzle fixed with my fingers and spin the airbrush on; less likely to drop the nozzle and also easier to line it up.
This is how I was shown to insert nozzles also. Hands down, best method.
Does the Iwata nozzle tool and air valve tool work on the GSI Creos nozzle { eg PS 770 or similar}?
For the Iwata wretch, some of the questions and reviews say that the wrench is not compatible with the Iwata Eclipse series. The first review pic shows the product description even. Aren't you demonstrating the wrench on an Eclipse? Can you verify if it works to safely remove the nozzle? Thanks!
This air brush,... Very good brand😍
Yes both eclipse and ps.289 are fantastic 👍🏻👍🏻
GREAT just got my Creos and I have a .3 gun and had no problem but my .5 just snapped! why would they do that!?
FYI, when putting the nozzle on, put in your needle, push it in and let 1/2” stick out the tip, place nozzle on needle and push on nozzle and needle to insert the nozzle into the threads on front of Airbrush, it lets the needle start the nozzle straight into the threads, less dropping the nozzle as well!
nozzle tips - very clever!
Lol….pun definitely intended 😉😂
I have a cordless brush and I tried the little tool and snapped the nozzle tip on accident. I replaced it with another and now I'm afraid to attempt to take the nozzle off again lol 😂
I abused a Richpen 112b for years (just using ink for art pieces) - dug it out - the nozzle was almost burned out and the trigger was so corroded it actually snapped. So I got an Iwata Revolution - its nice - bigger reservoir - great for mixing Tamiya paints) but the action is nowhere near as good. Is there some way to adjust the Iwata to have a more subtle action?
Thanks for your comment you will find that after extended use your iwata will become smoother , feel free to also check out this vid for adjusting trigger tension 👉🏻 ua-cam.com/video/2rD3vqeZEg8/v-deo.html hope that helps 👍🏻
A heightened (extended) trigger creates a longer, more gradual withdrawal of the needle from the nozzle. I chopped one of mine halfway up with a Dremel cutting wheel, roughed up the involved surfaces a bit and spliced (soldered) a sleeve of square tubing into place, heightening the shaft of the trigger about 1/4 inch.
An easier but uglier and less permanent solution, (one I used before modifying one of my triggers) was to simply heighten the finger pad of the trigger with a small (1/2 round) rubber pad with adhesive on it. The kind commonly used behind the bottom corners of picture frames. Cheap and effective but as noted, not awfully enduring.
@@davidkoloc1313 thanks man - im not going to that engineering level - but it gives a good perspective - ah blu tac and balsa wood for me then :D
Can you please maybe cover your actual cleaning/maintenance process?
Thank you and here is a video showcasing how I clean the micron Takumi hope that helps 👉🏻 ua-cam.com/video/uHXzurX9eLM/v-deo.html
I never put the needle back in if the needle chucking nut is on! When u put it last then u wont forget to tighten it. :D
Hey y'all I just broke my fluid nossle without knowing but if you have an xacto knife you can use that to get the other rhalf out
But, Iwata says we should NEVER unscrew the silver nozzle tip from the brass floating base on the Eclipse. From their website:
"For Iwata Eclipse airbrushes (compression fit nozzle):
The nozzle (4) for the Eclipse BS, SBS and CS is a set and SHOULD NEVER BE SEPARATED."
Love your tips
Thanks buddy hope all is well with you 👍🏻
Little lifehack: Don't remove the needle from the back. First, take out the nozzle, next - push the needle forward. That prevents paint from getting into the air valve. And thus you will need less cleaning.
👍👍 mantap
Thank you 🤘🏻🤘🏻
2:28... 'Once you feel it grab'...
These threads are static, not dynamic and these tips also have a lip on them at the thread's end. Once snug, a quarter turn (90°) on such a small delicate part is far too much.
Thanks for your comment and for sharing your info 🙏
NEVER take the two part nozzle of the "eclipse" apart, i'twat'a even recommend against it!!!
Thanks for sharing ….that is news to me 😱 luckily there is really no need to pull them apart, but I can also assure you I have had my eclipses for years and have removed both parts of the nozzle numerous times and the brush has never failed me 👍🏻
I disagree and have also spoken with Iwata techs on several occasions over my career and none has ever mentioned what you claim.
To the contrary, components that aren't crimped, soldered or welded together to become essentially 'one part' can be dismantled and reassembled endlessly if common sense, mechanical aptitude and the proper tools/practices are employed.
This concept, along with high quality materials and great tolerance standards are Hallmark of any well engineered mechanical products.
I'm sorry but you shouldn't pull the needle out the back. Cause then you will get paint all through the back of your brush.
Every single airbrush video I watched on UA-cam pulls it out the back.
I can’t pull mine out the front. It doesn’t fit.
This Iwata hpcs is a waste of money. Mine bubbles in the cup. Tried bees wax , Teflon tape. Full complete cleaning and still bubbles in the cup. Nozzle is brand new. Through this Iwata in the garbage. Last one I ever buy!