I much prefer to dump the contents of the paint cup after you back fill. If there's any tiny bits of paint that have dried or started drying, I don't want to be firing that through the nozzle.
That's another good reason why to add too little paint instead of too much. When I put in too much it starts to dry around the edges leaving those tacky lumpy deposits.
Absolutely this. What he does will cause clogging. Main way to never clog an airbrush is to correctly use the double action. 90% of miniature painters do not use airbrush correctly
I haven't been keeping my airbrush wet, but what I usually do before I start (I do something pretty similar as a cleaning process) is run a few drops of cleaner, then water, and then flow improver through before I start painting with it.
yep me to, and it was until now always totally enough. i ha e one issue with oncles move, i would never spray the cleaning liquid after the backblast process back out the front, this move totally contradicts the backblast process. yes, i do spray out the front, but only then, after i backblasted and spilled that stuff out first and cleaned the top. i mean, then when i am sure, that nl particles can go further torwards the nozzle
Thank you for sharing this video! I have been ABing for about 20 years and I do everything you do except for two things. First, when I’m done I clean out the cup with thinner first and dump it, then I use the cleaner. Second thing, with the cleaner in the cup, I take a #3 or 4 round brush and clean around the sides of the cup with the cleaner, dump that and repeat, back flush and then repeat with water or window wash from my car, back flush repeat and done! I also take one drop of needle juice on my index finger, rub it together with thumb and index finger and pinch/pass the needle through my fingers once and done!
Coming back a week later to comment after testing. This worked for me like a charm! I live in a dry climate so my brush tended to clog very easily no matter how much thinner I was using. I was getting to point of having to do deep cleans of the brush mid session to stop speckling. I tried this and to my surprise, works like magic. No speckling issues except for the usually tip drying through my sessions. Thanks!
My father’s job is to paint cars, and when I help him I used to be the one who have to clean the “paint-pistol”, so when I bought an airbrush it was natural for me to clean it. I do almost all the step that you listed... but the one to leave the airbrush inside of water I never heard of, and sounds very smart. I will add it to my cleaning routine, thank you!
@@jellyman- I did.. Read my other comment. So the point I'm making is that no, it doesn't sound smart to leave your airbrush in water. What purpose could that serve?" I may put a couple drops of lube after a quick cleaning as described in my prior comment. Once a week All the brushes I used that week get a deep cleaning. If you tear down your brush and clean it properly there should be nothing in that airbrush. What could water possibly do to make it better. Hay take the guy's advice if you want. You can also wash your socks in grape jelly, but again it won't help anything.
It would be pretty hard on your nitrile orings and seals to always keep them wet though, they want to be lubricated yes, but you would be stripping lubrication from the parts and seals with water so... I'd say don't keep it wet.
I've seen a lot of interesting videos from your channel, but this is the one that got me to subscribe. I've been frustrated about my airbrush getting clogged, and it has really put a damper on my motivation to paint with it. I very much appreciate your advice and look forward to having a much more fun experience with my airbrush.
I just got my first airbrush the other day. Still need a compressor but I had no idea about the whole water storage to prevent clogging it never even occurred to me and no one talked about it in the videos i've watched about maintenance so I appreciate the game changing advice before I even to started playing the game!
Airbrush Cleaner is, generally, a mix of Isopropyl alcohol, Glycerine and water. So I cut the middle man and use just Iso most of the time, since I had already stocked it before the "inflation" of it. When I want to make a deep clean of one of my airbrushes (I own 4, different uses) , I take my ultrasonic cleaner filled to half with water, I take a plastic bag (the food kind) , fill it with the other half of water + a dab of Iso (never fill an ultrasonic cleaner with pure Iso) , the Airbrush goes into the plastic bag (not dismantled, sometimes I will just take the needle out and also put it in the bag) , and I try to leave it for 10 minutes. The plastic bag makes it really easy to throw the washing water out without having to move the whole ultrasonic, and the vibrations move through it like it was nothing
Thanks for this. I've never seen this mentioned anywhere else and I now keep my airbrush in distilled water aaaaaaand so far no more blockages! Legend :)
I highly recommend you invest in a quick disconnect. Even if you only have one brush, it saves a lot of time when you have to disconnect your brush. I alternate with three brushes and I don't want to wait while I screw a hose on and off between them.
Some airbrushes have little holes in the nozzle cone - trying to backflow those is an easy way to get the airbrush clogged up ( because inevitably you wont make a perfect seal and a little paint still comes through ) :(
Makeup sponges help there, take the protector off, hold the sponge over the end and backflow. The sponge is soft enough to keep your needle safe, but hardy enough to block the airflow.
@@elijahdprophet agreed, those little wedges make a perfect seal even with the "crown" like protector still attached.. (they're also pretty sweet for wiping off little boo-boos' without wrecking the whole show)
Basically my method except for the submerging bit. I also got a tip from a commision painting friend of mine. Have a soft toothbrush nearby, inbetween colours or whenever you see gunk starting to form on the on the tip of the needle, put some airbrush cleaner on the brush and just give it a quick scrub. I don't think I've had a clog in months using this tip on top of my usual cleaning procedure. Cheers Uncle Atom, looking forward to seeing some more airbrushing videos now you've got your new setup.
I saw this on a Lyla Mev video recently too, its surprising how often this is the sourse of a problem, and so quick to fix. This seems to be the biggest issue with my airbrushing overall. I left my brush for two years without using it, went back to using it again regularly and had no problems after an initial clean. I'm not 100% convinced about leaving the brush permanently submerged being a big improvement, I can still see that paint could dry on the tip of the needle during use anyway.
For flushing the airbrush after using water based acrylics I use pre mixed windscreen washer fluid. Can be bought very cheaply from automotive stores and works very well. Smells nice too!
An airbrush nozzle can hold a surprising amount of dried up paint even while looking "clean". I have picked out a lot of paint from an airbrush that was still spraying. Keep your broken needles and use them for cleaning. They work really well for it.
For me the problem is usually painting a lot of the same color... paint will start to dry in the airbrush, the dried paint moves downstream and bang, there's your clog. You should periodically clean just like between colors...
One thing that helps with that is mixing the paint really well and using a flow improver and airbrush thinner rather than just water. Altougth if the paint bottle has culmps in it theres norhing you can do outside of thinning the paint in something like a plastic shot glass and then pouring it in the airbrush. Altougth they do sell tiny filter just for that but I have never tried them
I had the same problem, but I think I found a solution to it: during a paint session don't touch (clean) the inside of the paint pot with anything rigid, only cleaner or water. This way you don't chip off dried paint which will eventually end clogging the nozzle.
I think a good point is making sure that the pressure isn’t too high. If it is too high the paint can dry on the needle near the nozzle. I ran into that and it took me forever figure that was the reason I kept clogging.
@@channelv5333 I have found that most acrylics work well in the 15 psi to 25 psi range. I usually have mine set to 20 psi and test that I can control the paint on a piece of paper. If it splurts out the pressure could be too low or it could be thinned too much.
One additional thing: take the needle out through the nozzle side of the brush (after removing the actual nozzle). This way you don't 'contaminate' the parts of the brush that would otherwise never see any paint (the trigger and back screw parts)
@@GakusangiIf the tip screws in, your kit probably came with a wrench. Trying this out for cleaning purposes will also show you how to swap tips, which you need to know to swap needle sizes. So worth doing as a learning exercise! 🙂
I've read elsewhere that keeping the airbrush under water was bad for the rubber gaskets, but I agree, it works and it seems worth the trade off. The other good tip is to not allow the paint to run out, therefore avoiding blowing air over a dry tip. I still get paint on the shaft of the needle have have to clear it though. I still haven't solved that issue, except to take it out and clean the whole thing.
I use my own made cleaner. 2/5 distilled water + 2/5 window cleaner (ammonia free) + 1/5 IPA 99.9% alcohol + 15 drops of glycerin. It does the exact same bubble as the ones shown in this video :D I usually do all the steps you do, but I also do an acetone pass at the end to get rid of any dry paint. I don' t keep the airbrush dipped in water. I just do an acetone pass before painting.
putting the airbrush into water to never get it dry is so obvious but also mindblowing for me at the same time. thx for this amazing tip. i also might buy an ultrasonic cleaner to make sure everything is super clean all the time
I have to say that keeping the airbrush in water has helped me enjoy my air brushing a lot more, since I didn't like the cleaning part of the job. I learned this from Uncle Atom from a video years ago and it has worked for me. Again thanks for the great advice Uncle Atom!
I gotta try some of this. Both my H&S Evolution silverline and my Patriot 106 clog up constantly even with just regular paint. The Patriot bubbles into the air cup unless i crank the tip down all the way, and the h&s is hypersenstive to basically everything.
I have the same issue with mine. Not sure what the problem is since it's been an issue from day 1 and I clean it really well, always keep paint thin, and use pretty low psi. I even tried needle juice to keep paint from sticking to the needle and it still clogs instantly. Really disappointing.
use the Ultimate apex airbrush, i used standard thinners from a car paint shop first a little amount backflowed then poored onto kitchen towel to avoid paint going back into the needle area, then repeat but blowed through to clear the needle area, that's okay for a colour change, if I have used 2k or primer I always do a full breakdown clean, then when I have done all those types of cleaning a quick blast of acetone to get any lasting particles through and that air drys very quickly
Thanks for the tutorial. I'm new to using the airbrush. So far no major problems. I take a bit more attention when airbrushing primers though. Lacquer primers have this flaky membrane-y stuff building in the cup, so my common sense tells me not to shoot it out when I'm cleaning it. Same thing with paints. If I've been using the airbrush for a few hours at a time, then I disassemble and clean it properly. I've never disassembled the trigger, stem and back parts though, because I take a conscious attention never to tip the airbrush THAT way, if you know what I mean. And during deep cleans, I push the needle out from THE FRONT to prevent introducing gunk into the trigger system in the back. I also insert it back into the airbrush from the front. Carefully, of course. Otherwise, I've been having a blast with the airbrush. It's been about 3 months so I should probably drain the bottom of the compressor tank sometime soon too LOL.
Thanks for the video. It’s been 15-20 years since I’ve even looked at my airbrush and I’d cleaned it and reassembled it wrongly all those years ago. Your video helped me reassemble it the correct way. Fingers crossed it’ll work out for me now.
I generally wipe the inside out with a paper towel before back blowing. It gets most of the paint out first. Nice tip about keeping the airbrush wet. I've never heard of that before. When my brush clogs, it's usually because I have a problem with the paint, ie. particles in the paint clogging the nozzle. So my own tip is to mix paint in a separate container first, then decant into the airbrush cup. This leaves sediments behind. This mostly applies when I'm spraying dollar store craft paints onto terrain. Sometimes the acrylics don't react well with thinner, or even water. I don't do this when just using Tamiya or Vallejo.
If you aren't averse to solvents, try lacquer thinners or a solvent-based cleaner like Tamiya airbrush cleaner. It INSTANTLY dissolves all dried paint it touches, including cured varnishes. Yes, this also applies to dried water-based acrylic paint. A couple of drops on a shop towel will clean out any errant dried paint spill or spatter. I actually recommend trying solvent-based acrylics in general, if you can get good enough ventilation. Solvent-based acrylics ("lacquers", we usually call them) don't clog, have better coverage and spray smoothly and evenly, even with poor technique. I'm always frustrated and disappointed when I go back to spraying water-based acrylics. I actually started with water-based and still use them, but lacquers always give me a better experience. Unfortunately, they are stinky and don't brush paint well.
If you're spraying lacquer paint I would recommend using a spray-booth with an extractor fan and a respirator rated for solvent use as a minimum. The smell from lacquers is the least of your problems, you don't want to be inhaling vaporised lacquer thinners and carrier fluid. Its toxic and repeated exposure to it could possibly affect your health.
A lesson learned the hard way: don't add airbrush cleaning fluid to your soak water. Something in there will turn the brass parts black, and eventually dissolve them. Too acidic maybe? The nozzle for my Neo literally crumbled after a few months of being stored in a cup of water with a few drops of Iwata cleaner. Based on your experience, I'm sure pure water is fine, but now I just do a quick clean with Vincey V's method and store it dry.
Thank you so much for showing us how to do this and making it simple instead of going on and on and on and on like all other people do thank you for not talking too much and just explaining what to do and how to do it
I've been airbrushing only for a few months and due to you, Scott, Vince, Layla, and Emil it has been a pure joy to use! It saves so much time and gives me some really wonderful results even with the limited experience I have.
I use my airbrush nearly every day and my routine is pretty close to yours. The difference is that I don't tear it down every night and soak it. I want to be able to pick it up first thing in the morning start painting. I do leave my cleaning water in the cup overnight for much the same reason, though. FYI - That Iwata cleaner is great but with the amount of cleaning I do it's just too pricey to use all of the time. My go-to cleaner is simply water with a bit of dish soap in it. That's all. When I need a more thorough cleaner I'll break out the fancy stuff or alcohol (when there's something really stuck on there). Another difference is that I avoid pulling the needle through the back where there's a chance to bring dried paint from the needle into the back of the brush. I generally take off the tip then bring the needle through the front.
Thanks for this! I would never have thought to keep a metal instrument in water but that's pretty genius. I mostly bubble up & spray through a little airbrush thinner and then a little cleaner, and use a cotton swab instead of paper towel to loosen anything stuck in the cup, and haven't had issues since starting that process a year+ ago.
This is awesome! I ordered a couple of very cheap air brushes off of Amazon and it didn’t go well. I ordered a moderately priced set up after the fact and have been extremely OCD. However, my steps have been somewhat sporadic within reason 100% this changed the game coming back after the fact.
Good Stuff Uncle A, you have mentioned some of this before but it really helps to have it one video, my biggest issue with airbrushing is clogs. I did similar cleaning to you though I go with water first to clean out the cup and wipe of the inside of the cup with a microfibre cloth, paper towels can leave bits if your unlucky. Then I hit it with Cleaner, its pretty much Vince's technique. My main black primer from Vallejo still keeps clogging both airbrushes even with Flow Improver and I would use sonic cleaners and soak them in water and air brush cleaner. But one thing I tend to do is prime a lot of minis at once so I put a lot of paint in the cup and I think that does not help as some will dry in the cup and then possibly flake into the brush and clog it so have started putting less in as you advise. The other thing about keep it in liquid I will try too, though my brushes will spend days in soak I do take them out and clean them and I use an old needle to ensure the nozzle is clean and often push out tapeworms of black primer :( In the End I went to AK interactive Black Primer and man its so much better. Like other ways to paint you discover what paints work best and in this case I have learnt not to use the Vallejo black primer, which is sad as I got a big bottle :( Thanks for this :) I am hopeful my airbrushes will be clog free from now on as airbrushing is a joy, my favourite part of painting which I largely tolerate ;)
I've been using Vallejo matte black, gloss black, mech white and grey primers. They grey was horrible to use due to regular blockages, but that was when I had only just discovered air brushing. These days I can prime with the grey with zero clogging, and I think I was previously just bad at cleaning my particular air brush and it was me rather than the primer. Primer is pretty thick so I tend to thin it down a lot as well as using flow improver. If I'm priming a lot of models, or something really big requiring a number of cup refills, when I see a layer of primer scum coating the cup I'll clean that out because thats what can break down into the paint again and cause the clogging mid-session.
Some good tips, I'll try keeping my brush submerged from now on. Appreciate seeing some more practical advice on the channel as well as your 'why I like it' series
Keeping your airbrush wet in between sessions is the best maintenance tip I have ever come across. Picked up this tip previously from Kenny Boucher of Next Level Painting. Mine sits in a tupperware tub in a 50/50 mix of airbrush cleaner/water. It's been there a few months now since I last used it so just checked the level, which is still fine. The tupperware lid is doing it's job. Despite this one tip making maintenance far less of a chore, I still hate using the airbrush.
After some recent practice I've found that taking 15 minutes to clean my airbrush after every session keeps it performing really well. Leaving paint in there to dry out often blocks the nozzle, so I make sure I work fast between layers of priming or switching colours. If paint dries on the end of the needle, going over it with a wet brush can cure that really fast. IMO keeping the brush clean is the best way to have a pain free experience, and cleaning little and often minimises the need for time intensive deep cleaning.
Whenever I take the needle out of mine, I put a drop of airbrush thinner or cleaner on a cloth and drag the needle through that spot - adds that little extra bit of "clean everything off the needle"
I'm a fan of LA's Totally Awesome as a cleaner. A little harsh, and I make sure to rinse it completely in case it can hurt the rubber bits or chrome, but it murders the paint really well.
Nice I bet the ultra sonic cleaner is the game changer here, I use cleaner, the little cleaner kit you mentioned, and a rheemer for the nozzle every now and again it's the best thing in the kit
30yrs ago I made a lot of money painting motorcycle helmets. It was also acrylic water based paint. I gave up on that hobby / job once I graduated college as an engineer. Then I later moved onto the miniature hobby. I never once had a clog but I also never kept my airbrushes in water. I did do was before starting to paint was run half an airbrush cup of water through the brush before starting or as I was taught, use Airbrush Lubricant (like that from Badger) or simply a few drops of flow improver. I do use a ultrasonic cleaner but I do not keep the parts in water. I take them out, dry them and assemble and then prime the airbrush as I stated with water, airbrush lubricant or flow improver. I agree do not start completely dry but you do not need to keep parts in water. Never heard of that and never followed that advice and no issues over 30yrs.
Long time viewer and first time commenting. Nice video on the overall aspect of cleaning your airbrush. I do a similar method just w/different cleaner sequence. I use Tamiya Air Brush cleaner in between airbrushing, then when I do a final clean, I use that same Iwata Cleaner in my Magnasonic cleaner machine, then rinse with water. Keeping the airbrush in water when not in use sounds Genius! Never heard of that technique, and I've been airbrushing for 30+ years. Will have to give that a go. Thanks for a very informative video. Take care.
very similar technique here... i use those long pipettes (a squeeze bottle would work even better).. I pull the trigger back (no air on) to open the needle/nozzle, then insert the tip of my pipette as far into the cup/orifice as it can go then i squirt the water/cleaner/flow improver in there.. a nice amount of it will get forced out the nozzle.. then i release the pipette to suck up the left over juice and discard it into a cup, then repeat a few more times with the various cleaning liquids till i am happy and cant see any paint left in there on the needle or the cup.
Here is a pro tip for Harder and Steenbeck users like myself - do not backflush too early. Clean out the cup first until the water is not cloudy anymore (squirt bottle helps). Iwata and Iwata clones are fine like described above but HS brushes really make you regret backflushing because the paint goes everywhere inside the device.
I have the evolution and can't realy backflush because the needle cap is slotted. i've tried cupping my palm around it and taping it but the pressure will always find a way. I guess, I could screw the cap of and put my finger directly on the nozzle but I'm afraid I might damage the needle.
I can imagine that the amount of time I have to leave between painting sessions that I wouldn't be able keep the airbrush wet and would hit the evaporation and mineral problem. I'll definitely try the rest of the cleaning steps though.
I use my airbrush much more frequently now, so it doesn’t really happen to me anymore, but in the early days of my airbrushing, there would be months of time between sessions sometimes. Thanks for watching!
If you need to keep it wet for long amounts of time get a mason jar with the lid and seal it shut. It will prevent the evaporation. Only problem is finding one that is big/tall enough to fit all the parts of your particular airbrush.
once again, I heard something on this channel for the first time. Storing the airbrush submerged in water. I have ... never.. .ever ... remotely.. heard that. And I would have never even thought that this is a good idea, but yeah,.. makes sense when you think about it. And this comes at exactly the right time.. I just primed some minis and hat a rough start.. as my airbrush had some clogging issues... again.. thanks for the tipp!
8:49 Promotional Stratosphere? I have a similar method, but it starts with water, rinsing out the cup so I don't put more paint through it. Once I get most of the paint out, I backflow with water, spray it out, then backflow with the cleaner and spray that out. The keeping it submerged is new to me.
What is the reason for storing the airbrush in water? I can understand giving it a good soak in water or cleaner to break up any stray paint after cleaning, but how does keeping it submerged prevent clogs? The only effect it would have that I can think of is that everything would be slightly moist inside when you start painting. But you would get the same effect by dunking it all in water before starting right?
I've never heard to keep your airbrush submerged in water. Amazing tip. I went to the Art Institute, but focused mainly on digital media. I have an Iwata airbrush from 2013 that I basically tucked into a box and haven't touched until today. Needless to say, the needle is stuck. Going through a process of my own to try to unseize and revive this old airbrush.
A toothbrush works great to get paint out of the cup. I also use a container of water next to my paint station that I clean my airbrush in. Makes color changes easy.
Great tip never heard of keeping it wet before,the only thing i do different which a few folk have mentioned is ,i don't shoot anything through the nozzle unless its going onto a model or piece of scenery i much prefer to dump it .
Thanks for the detailed instructions on airbrush cleaning! Especially the tip about keeping the airbrush wet between sessions. Wow, I've never seen that advice before.
this was an excellent video. ive had patriot 105 forever but only recently started using it and it does not like my thinner or something cause it jams on the drop of a hat
I use water to clean it out. It requires a little more effort to fully clean out but I haven't had issues with it using my paints. I Also have isopropyl alcohol if I worked with a chalkier paint. Not sure why you think isopropyl alcohol is expensive since I pick it up at the local grocery store for $3-$4 at 32oz. It regularly goes on sale for under $3 a bottle and I stock up for my 3d printer.
Great advise! The habit formation is very important. My only problem is that the water in my region is so full of "sediment" the I can't even touch the airbrush with the tap water if I don't want to have it calcified instantly :(
Then I would use distilled water. You might have to keep an eye on it because it can get a little weird, but some folks have said that some copper wire in the distilled water will help with any growth. Thanks for watching!
I make my own airbrush cleaner, 1/3 water, 1/3 denatured alcohol, 1/3 summer wind screen cleaner and a few drops of glycerin. And I never leave the needle in airbrush when done painting. Needles have a tendency to get stuck due to dry paint in the seals
Hello and thank you very much for posting your video(s). I find them very helpful. I am hoping you could help me with a couple of questions. I have a smaller antique safe that was my grandfathers. The paint is badly worn off. I will be sanding the entire safe and I plan on repainting it and adding a bit of art. I have NEVER used an airbrush! I would appreciate any suggestions for the following: 1) what BLACK colored paint product to spray the entire safe with once it is sanded to bare steel? 2) what paint product to use in my air sprayer? 3) what paint product to spray over the entire safe, in order to give it a clear coat as protection for the black paint and the artwork? Thank you very much in advance, it is appreciated!
great stuff as always! i haven't gotten to the stage of airbrushing beyond priming and base coating. the climate in WI doesn't always play nice with the spray cans, as i'm sure you know.
When you use any brand of airbrush cleaner you are effectivly buying and transporting alot of water. Just mix it yourself. It's basically diluted alcohol. If that too much of a hassle, my go to cleaner is the blue liquid that sprays on the windshield of your car (not sure what it's called). Buy it concentrated and dilute with water according to the instructions on the bottle. You are still paying for water, but at least it's less expensive and you don't need to ship it from Amazon.
Primer causes the most headaches for me, usually clogging mid job. Makes sense, it's designed to stick. Do you prime with your airbrush and if so what do you do to keep that from clogging?
Are you using badger stynylrez? I love how well it sticks to the model and the matte finish but boy does it clog and it’s a pain to clean the gun after using it. I got the 3 pack (black, white and grey) and the black and grey even thinned give the most problems. I am now testing vallejo’s primer and it’s behaving much better making it easier to clean and not clogging.
I use flow improver and a generous amount of thinner, all from Vallejo. With some intermediate cleaning I can prime for a couple of hours with very few issues.
If its just a cleaning step between color changes, I found that putting my airbrush on a quick release really helped without having to turn the airbrush off and made cleaning less painful.
I do use cleaner as a second step of 3. I start with heated Purple Power or Simple Green-10% concentration. Heated is the magic. I brush the cup with a stiff brush then dump or suction. I do not spray this first cleaning mix through. Repeat. Then repeat with backflush. Then spray cleaner through with backflush. Then distilled water. Then disassemble and wipe needle and dental brush the nozzle. 5 minutes.
Great tips as usual. Didn't know you could soak it... Only thing I would mention is if you bewn doing a lot of ultrasonic cleaning I destroyed the seals on my first airbruah because the water got too hot as I was using it between colours. If anyone uses an ultrasonic cleaner and the water geta warm chanhe it to some fresh cold water and your seals will be fine.
In all seriousness though, this is a workflow I started about a year ago and I was certain I was being lazy and it would eventually ruin my cheap brush. So far it’s done nothing but work like a charm, so I’d say it was a successful experiment!
LOVED THIS!!! It is an excellent how-to video: clear, concise & just the right length! Thank you so much & I look forward to seeing more content along these lines! 😁👍
I don't recommend that Iwata airbrush cleaner. I wear a respirator and have good ventilation. That stuff still messes with me long after I have finished. Fumes are not good. Here's my mix. It works great and I have no issues with fumes afterwards. I mix mine in those popular squeeze bottles (wash bottles) *Airbrush Cleaner 87g - Distilled-water 87g - Simply Green 58g -91% Iso Alc 5+ drop Glycerin *Secondary Recipe 70% Distilled-water 30% Ammonia Free Glass Cleaner Iso Alc 3-4 Tbsp 5-10 drops Glycerin
I use DIY cleaner and thinner made by following Grumpy Modeler's UA-cam video. Works pretty good for me. I do use army Painter thinner/medium just for adding a little to the cup before I add paint. I do get some dry tip sometimes but I definitely always paint way too much without rinsing/cleaning. I just add a little more cleaner, backflow, spray, add thinner, spray, and keep painting.
Interesting... I ordered airbrush (in hope to get rid of spray bottles), and ended up looking some videos for beginners - some of them from professionals. And non of them mentioned A) that their airbrush never clog, or B) idea to build water temple to around of your airbrush (well, that is my reading of suggestion!). But that make sense. Ultrasonic cleaner probably take away need for keep them wet, since it actually clean parts very well, but it does not hurt to keep parts there, if you do not need the device for anything else (and if you have such).
Cleaner . I use a mix of simple green, distilled water and iso. Also you're probably better off taking the needle out from the front after taking the spray nozzle off. Then reinstalling the needle from the front as well using the spray nozzle as an alignment guide before tighting the needle grip. This also prevents any damage to any needle seals.
Great tips. I put the nozzle only, by itself, in alcohol whenever my airbrush is not in use. Never had a clog since I started doing that 3 years ago. It goes without saying, I don't think alcohol is good for rubber, so only the metal nozzle.
I first remove the nozzle and then push the needle through the front. That way I don't drag paint through my whole Airbrush. For Cleaning Isopropanol works great.
Hmm, I'm almost out of rubbing alcohol, which I use to clean my airbrush, and I had a 3/4th full bottle when I bought an airbrush and started painting, so really I don't know the price. I didn't know they're more expensive than airbrush cleaners, I'll have to look into that. Leave in water? I've actually seen one comment on Amazon review where a guy left his in water for two days and it rusted, I forgot where or what model he had. I have a Casubaris and a Master G233, which both are of good quality, and once in a great while, even though I keep them very clean (and dried), they do tend to start out a bit plugged so I wet them down, blow water through and they're fine. One UA-camr said start out with water first, get it flowing first before start painting, so that's what I do now. If you say that airbrushes don't rust, then I'm willing to take that chance with the Casubaris. If that goes well, then I'll start keeping them both in water. Thanks for the tip on that, needless to say cause someone's airbrush rusted (as per a comment on Amazon), I'm honestly a little skeptical, but willing to try. Your tips are very helpful, thanks so much!
I know it's been a while, Anyway I clean my airbrush, with winter windshield wiper fluid. Contains mostly some iso and clean water. I use for flushing between colors. For deep cleaning airbrush i use the Iwata cleaner. At least here Iwata cleaner is more expensive than Isopropyl, but It doesn't smell so bad.
I find my airbrush constantly clogs in the middle of a paint session even without changing colors... it will be flowing great then clog up. I have found that doing short bursts of spray makes it better, but the last little part that the needle goes through at the end is always backing up. I have a hi-end airbrush and I struggle with preventing it from getting clogged...what could I be doing wrong... much appreciated
I much prefer to dump the contents of the paint cup after you back fill. If there's any tiny bits of paint that have dried or started drying, I don't want to be firing that through the nozzle.
Same here, there can be an awful lot of paint flecks in there.
That's another good reason why to add too little paint instead of too much. When I put in too much it starts to dry around the edges leaving those tacky lumpy deposits.
100% agree, and it only takes a few seconds
I usually do that too, but I imagine his other techniques minimize how many small particles will even be there.
Absolutely this. What he does will cause clogging. Main way to never clog an airbrush is to correctly use the double action. 90% of miniature painters do not use airbrush correctly
I haven't been keeping my airbrush wet, but what I usually do before I start (I do something pretty similar as a cleaning process) is run a few drops of cleaner, then water, and then flow improver through before I start painting with it.
I second this ^^
Yes
yep me to, and it was until now always totally enough.
i ha e one issue with oncles move, i would never spray the cleaning liquid after the backblast process back out the front, this move totally contradicts the backblast process. yes, i do spray out the front, but only then, after i backblasted and spilled that stuff out first and cleaned the top. i mean, then when i am sure, that nl particles can go further torwards the nozzle
this is what I do.
Thank you. I was wondering what someone who doesn't use an airbrush often enough to justify keeping it in water should do.
Thank you for sharing this video! I have been ABing for about 20 years and I do everything you do except for two things. First, when I’m done I clean out the cup with thinner first and dump it, then I use the cleaner. Second thing, with the cleaner in the cup, I take a #3 or 4 round brush and clean around the sides of the cup with the cleaner, dump that and repeat, back flush and then repeat with water or window wash from my car, back flush repeat and done! I also take one drop of needle juice on my index finger, rub it together with thumb and index finger and pinch/pass the needle through my fingers once and done!
Coming back a week later to comment after testing. This worked for me like a charm! I live in a dry climate so my brush tended to clog very easily no matter how much thinner I was using. I was getting to point of having to do deep cleans of the brush mid session to stop speckling.
I tried this and to my surprise, works like magic. No speckling issues except for the usually tip drying through my sessions. Thanks!
My father’s job is to paint cars, and when I help him I used to be the one who have to clean the “paint-pistol”, so when I bought an airbrush it was natural for me to clean it. I do almost all the step that you listed... but the one to leave the airbrush inside of water I never heard of, and sounds very smart. I will add it to my cleaning routine, thank you!
"sounds very smart"
No it doesn't.
@@Dude_Slick would you like to contribute to our understanding and education of how to clean an airbrush by elaborating on that?
@@jellyman- I did.. Read my other comment. So the point I'm making is that no, it doesn't sound smart to leave your airbrush in water. What purpose could that serve?" I may put a couple drops of lube after a quick cleaning as described in my prior comment. Once a week All the brushes I used that week get a deep cleaning. If you tear down your brush and clean it properly there should be nothing in that airbrush. What could water possibly do to make it better. Hay take the guy's advice if you want. You can also wash your socks in grape jelly, but again it won't help anything.
@@Dude_Slick I’m not taking sides, but I gotta say that I chuckled when I read the grape jelly socks line. Kudos
It would be pretty hard on your nitrile orings and seals to always keep them wet though, they want to be lubricated yes, but you would be stripping lubrication from the parts and seals with water so... I'd say don't keep it wet.
This is my airbrush. There are many like it but this one is mine. I must keep my airbrush clean and true as I am clean and true!
I've seen a lot of interesting videos from your channel, but this is the one that got me to subscribe. I've been frustrated about my airbrush getting clogged, and it has really put a damper on my motivation to paint with it. I very much appreciate your advice and look forward to having a much more fun experience with my airbrush.
I just got my first airbrush the other day. Still need a compressor but I had no idea about the whole water storage to prevent clogging it never even occurred to me and no one talked about it in the videos i've watched about maintenance so I appreciate the game changing advice before I even to started playing the game!
Airbrush Cleaner is, generally, a mix of Isopropyl alcohol, Glycerine and water.
So I cut the middle man and use just Iso most of the time, since I had already stocked it before the "inflation" of it.
When I want to make a deep clean of one of my airbrushes (I own 4, different uses) , I take my ultrasonic cleaner filled to half with water, I take a plastic bag (the food kind) , fill it with the other half of water + a dab of Iso (never fill an ultrasonic cleaner with pure Iso) , the Airbrush goes into the plastic bag (not dismantled, sometimes I will just take the needle out and also put it in the bag) , and I try to leave it for 10 minutes.
The plastic bag makes it really easy to throw the washing water out without having to move the whole ultrasonic, and the vibrations move through it like it was nothing
Clever use of bag.
+1
That bag idea is genius. Thank you !
Thanks for this. I've never seen this mentioned anywhere else and I now keep my airbrush in distilled water aaaaaaand so far no more blockages! Legend :)
I highly recommend you invest in a quick disconnect. Even if you only have one brush, it saves a lot of time when you have to disconnect your brush. I alternate with three brushes and I don't want to wait while I screw a hose on and off between them.
I did a lot of work with an industrial air compressor in my youth, so I bought Iawata quick disconnects with my first airbrush. They're so worth it.
Some airbrushes have little holes in the nozzle cone - trying to backflow those is an easy way to get the airbrush clogged up ( because inevitably you wont make a perfect seal and a little paint still comes through ) :(
Makeup sponges help there, take the protector off, hold the sponge over the end and backflow. The sponge is soft enough to keep your needle safe, but hardy enough to block the airflow.
@@elijahdprophet agreed, those little wedges make a perfect seal even with the "crown" like protector still attached.. (they're also pretty sweet for wiping off little boo-boos' without wrecking the whole show)
Basically my method except for the submerging bit. I also got a tip from a commision painting friend of mine. Have a soft toothbrush nearby, inbetween colours or whenever you see gunk starting to form on the on the tip of the needle, put some airbrush cleaner on the brush and just give it a quick scrub. I don't think I've had a clog in months using this tip on top of my usual cleaning procedure. Cheers Uncle Atom, looking forward to seeing some more airbrushing videos now you've got your new setup.
I saw this on a Lyla Mev video recently too, its surprising how often this is the sourse of a problem, and so quick to fix. This seems to be the biggest issue with my airbrushing overall. I left my brush for two years without using it, went back to using it again regularly and had no problems after an initial clean. I'm not 100% convinced about leaving the brush permanently submerged being a big improvement, I can still see that paint could dry on the tip of the needle during use anyway.
For flushing the airbrush after using water based acrylics I use pre mixed windscreen washer fluid. Can be bought very cheaply from automotive stores and works very well.
Smells nice too!
An airbrush nozzle can hold a surprising amount of dried up paint even while looking "clean". I have picked out a lot of paint from an airbrush that was still spraying. Keep your broken needles and use them for cleaning. They work really well for it.
lol you have special cheap needles for that, some airbrushes will be sold together with that
For me the problem is usually painting a lot of the same color... paint will start to dry in the airbrush, the dried paint moves downstream and bang, there's your clog.
You should periodically clean just like between colors...
One thing that helps with that is mixing the paint really well and using a flow improver and airbrush thinner rather than just water. Altougth if the paint bottle has culmps in it theres norhing you can do outside of thinning the paint in something like a plastic shot glass and then pouring it in the airbrush. Altougth they do sell tiny filter just for that but I have never tried them
I had the same problem, but I think I found a solution to it: during a paint session don't touch (clean) the inside of the paint pot with anything rigid, only cleaner or water. This way you don't chip off dried paint which will eventually end clogging the nozzle.
One thing you can try is to add a bit of airbrush cleaner, tamiya thinner or isopropanol alcohol to your paint. Also helps with the tip drying.
I think a good point is making sure that the pressure isn’t too high. If it is too high the paint can dry on the needle near the nozzle. I ran into that and it took me forever figure that was the reason I kept clogging.
What pressure would you recommend?
That’s a really good point.
@@channelv5333 I have found that most acrylics work well in the 15 psi to 25 psi range. I usually have mine set to 20 psi and test that I can control the paint on a piece of paper. If it splurts out the pressure could be too low or it could be thinned too much.
One additional thing: take the needle out through the nozzle side of the brush (after removing the actual nozzle). This way you don't 'contaminate' the parts of the brush that would otherwise never see any paint (the trigger and back screw parts)
Came to the comments to say this, took me many years and many replacement backstop washers to figure that one out.
Would that work with a nozzle you have to unscrew? Not all of them just pop out.
@@GakusangiIf the tip screws in, your kit probably came with a wrench. Trying this out for cleaning purposes will also show you how to swap tips, which you need to know to swap needle sizes. So worth doing as a learning exercise!
🙂
@@johnsteidl293 I was only concerned about unscrewing the nozzle while the needle was still inside the airbrush and if that was risky to do.
@@Gakusangi Only the usual need to be careful when working around the needle tip. And if you ever damage one, they are not that expensive to replace.
I've read elsewhere that keeping the airbrush under water was bad for the rubber gaskets, but I agree, it works and it seems worth the trade off. The other good tip is to not allow the paint to run out, therefore avoiding blowing air over a dry tip. I still get paint on the shaft of the needle have have to clear it though. I still haven't solved that issue, except to take it out and clean the whole thing.
I use my own made cleaner. 2/5 distilled water + 2/5 window cleaner (ammonia free) + 1/5 IPA 99.9% alcohol + 15 drops of glycerin. It does the exact same bubble as the ones shown in this video :D I usually do all the steps you do, but I also do an acetone pass at the end to get rid of any dry paint. I don' t keep the airbrush dipped in water. I just do an acetone pass before painting.
putting the airbrush into water to never get it dry is so obvious but also mindblowing for me at the same time. thx for this amazing tip. i also might buy an ultrasonic cleaner to make sure everything is super clean all the time
I have to say that keeping the airbrush in water has helped me enjoy my air brushing a lot more, since I didn't like the cleaning part of the job. I learned this from Uncle Atom from a video years ago and it has worked for me. Again thanks for the great advice Uncle Atom!
I gotta try some of this. Both my H&S Evolution silverline and my Patriot 106 clog up constantly even with just regular paint. The Patriot bubbles into the air cup unless i crank the tip down all the way, and the h&s is hypersenstive to basically everything.
I have the same issue with mine. Not sure what the problem is since it's been an issue from day 1 and I clean it really well, always keep paint thin, and use pretty low psi. I even tried needle juice to keep paint from sticking to the needle and it still clogs instantly. Really disappointing.
use the Ultimate apex airbrush, i used standard thinners from a car paint shop first a little amount backflowed then poored onto kitchen towel to avoid paint going back into the needle area, then repeat but blowed through to clear the needle area, that's okay for a colour change, if I have used 2k or primer I always do a full breakdown clean, then when I have done all those types of cleaning a quick blast of acetone to get any lasting particles through and that air drys very quickly
Thanks for the tutorial. I'm new to using the airbrush. So far no major problems. I take a bit more attention when airbrushing primers though. Lacquer primers have this flaky membrane-y stuff building in the cup, so my common sense tells me not to shoot it out when I'm cleaning it. Same thing with paints.
If I've been using the airbrush for a few hours at a time, then I disassemble and clean it properly. I've never disassembled the trigger, stem and back parts though, because I take a conscious attention never to tip the airbrush THAT way, if you know what I mean.
And during deep cleans, I push the needle out from THE FRONT to prevent introducing gunk into the trigger system in the back. I also insert it back into the airbrush from the front. Carefully, of course.
Otherwise, I've been having a blast with the airbrush. It's been about 3 months so I should probably drain the bottom of the compressor tank sometime soon too LOL.
Thanks for the video. It’s been 15-20 years since I’ve even looked at my airbrush and I’d cleaned it and reassembled it wrongly all those years ago. Your video helped me reassemble it the correct way. Fingers crossed it’ll work out for me now.
I generally wipe the inside out with a paper towel before back blowing. It gets most of the paint out first.
Nice tip about keeping the airbrush wet. I've never heard of that before.
When my brush clogs, it's usually because I have a problem with the paint, ie. particles in the paint clogging the nozzle. So my own tip is to mix paint in a separate container first, then decant into the airbrush cup. This leaves sediments behind. This mostly applies when I'm spraying dollar store craft paints onto terrain. Sometimes the acrylics don't react well with thinner, or even water. I don't do this when just using Tamiya or Vallejo.
If you aren't averse to solvents, try lacquer thinners or a solvent-based cleaner like Tamiya airbrush cleaner. It INSTANTLY dissolves all dried paint it touches, including cured varnishes. Yes, this also applies to dried water-based acrylic paint. A couple of drops on a shop towel will clean out any errant dried paint spill or spatter. I actually recommend trying solvent-based acrylics in general, if you can get good enough ventilation. Solvent-based acrylics ("lacquers", we usually call them) don't clog, have better coverage and spray smoothly and evenly, even with poor technique. I'm always frustrated and disappointed when I go back to spraying water-based acrylics. I actually started with water-based and still use them, but lacquers always give me a better experience. Unfortunately, they are stinky and don't brush paint well.
If you're spraying lacquer paint I would recommend using a spray-booth with an extractor fan and a respirator rated for solvent use as a minimum. The smell from lacquers is the least of your problems, you don't want to be inhaling vaporised lacquer thinners and carrier fluid. Its toxic and repeated exposure to it could possibly affect your health.
might try this. mine got clogged after using varnish ffs
A lesson learned the hard way: don't add airbrush cleaning fluid to your soak water. Something in there will turn the brass parts black, and eventually dissolve them. Too acidic maybe?
The nozzle for my Neo literally crumbled after a few months of being stored in a cup of water with a few drops of Iwata cleaner. Based on your experience, I'm sure pure water is fine, but now I just do a quick clean with Vincey V's method and store it dry.
Thank you so much for showing us how to do this and making it simple instead of going on and on and on and on like all other people do thank you for not talking too much and just explaining what to do and how to do it
I, like many others avoided my nice airbrush setup for fear of clogs and the hassle, this is truly a game changer, thanks!!!
I've been airbrushing only for a few months and due to you, Scott, Vince, Layla, and Emil it has been a pure joy to use! It saves so much time and gives me some really wonderful results even with the limited experience I have.
I use my airbrush nearly every day and my routine is pretty close to yours. The difference is that I don't tear it down every night and soak it. I want to be able to pick it up first thing in the morning start painting. I do leave my cleaning water in the cup overnight for much the same reason, though. FYI - That Iwata cleaner is great but with the amount of cleaning I do it's just too pricey to use all of the time. My go-to cleaner is simply water with a bit of dish soap in it. That's all. When I need a more thorough cleaner I'll break out the fancy stuff or alcohol (when there's something really stuck on there). Another difference is that I avoid pulling the needle through the back where there's a chance to bring dried paint from the needle into the back of the brush. I generally take off the tip then bring the needle through the front.
How u bring it thro the front whem there is a ball on the end of your needle. Lol
@@mkulchar That would be an issue if my needle had a ball on the end of it.
Thanks for this! I would never have thought to keep a metal instrument in water but that's pretty genius. I mostly bubble up & spray through a little airbrush thinner and then a little cleaner, and use a cotton swab instead of paper towel to loosen anything stuck in the cup, and haven't had issues since starting that process a year+ ago.
This is awesome! I ordered a couple of very cheap air brushes off of Amazon and it didn’t go well. I ordered a moderately priced set up after the fact and have been extremely OCD. However, my steps have been somewhat sporadic within reason 100% this changed the game coming back after the fact.
Good Stuff Uncle A, you have mentioned some of this before but it really helps to have it one video, my biggest issue with airbrushing is clogs.
I did similar cleaning to you though I go with water first to clean out the cup and wipe of the inside of the cup with a microfibre cloth, paper towels can leave bits if your unlucky. Then I hit it with Cleaner, its pretty much Vince's technique.
My main black primer from Vallejo still keeps clogging both airbrushes even with Flow Improver and I would use sonic cleaners and soak them in water and air brush cleaner.
But one thing I tend to do is prime a lot of minis at once so I put a lot of paint in the cup and I think that does not help as some will dry in the cup and then possibly flake into the brush and clog it so have started putting less in as you advise.
The other thing about keep it in liquid I will try too, though my brushes will spend days in soak I do take them out and clean them and I use an old needle to ensure the nozzle is clean and often push out tapeworms of black primer :(
In the End I went to AK interactive Black Primer and man its so much better.
Like other ways to paint you discover what paints work best and in this case I have learnt not to use the Vallejo black primer, which is sad as I got a big bottle :(
Thanks for this :) I am hopeful my airbrushes will be clog free from now on as airbrushing is a joy, my favourite part of painting which I largely tolerate ;)
I've been using Vallejo matte black, gloss black, mech white and grey primers. They grey was horrible to use due to regular blockages, but that was when I had only just discovered air brushing. These days I can prime with the grey with zero clogging, and I think I was previously just bad at cleaning my particular air brush and it was me rather than the primer. Primer is pretty thick so I tend to thin it down a lot as well as using flow improver. If I'm priming a lot of models, or something really big requiring a number of cup refills, when I see a layer of primer scum coating the cup I'll clean that out because thats what can break down into the paint again and cause the clogging mid-session.
This is it! This is the video I have been waiting for. Thank you!
Some good tips, I'll try keeping my brush submerged from now on. Appreciate seeing some more practical advice on the channel as well as your 'why I like it' series
Keeping your airbrush wet in between sessions is the best maintenance tip I have ever come across. Picked up this tip previously from Kenny Boucher of Next Level Painting. Mine sits in a tupperware tub in a 50/50 mix of airbrush cleaner/water. It's been there a few months now since I last used it so just checked the level, which is still fine. The tupperware lid is doing it's job. Despite this one tip making maintenance far less of a chore, I still hate using the airbrush.
Kenny the Butcher
After some recent practice I've found that taking 15 minutes to clean my airbrush after every session keeps it performing really well. Leaving paint in there to dry out often blocks the nozzle, so I make sure I work fast between layers of priming or switching colours. If paint dries on the end of the needle, going over it with a wet brush can cure that really fast. IMO keeping the brush clean is the best way to have a pain free experience, and cleaning little and often minimises the need for time intensive deep cleaning.
Whenever I take the needle out of mine, I put a drop of airbrush thinner or cleaner on a cloth and drag the needle through that spot - adds that little extra bit of "clean everything off the needle"
I'm a fan of LA's Totally Awesome as a cleaner. A little harsh, and I make sure to rinse it completely in case it can hurt the rubber bits or chrome, but it murders the paint really well.
Nice I bet the ultra sonic cleaner is the game changer here, I use cleaner, the little cleaner kit you mentioned, and a rheemer for the nozzle every now and again it's the best thing in the kit
This is the first time i have heard anyone suggest to keep your airbrush in water between uses, I will need to give it a shot.
Thank you! I dread using my airbrush! Clogging has been a real problem. I am looking forward to trying it out using your tips
30yrs ago I made a lot of money painting motorcycle helmets. It was also acrylic water based paint. I gave up on that hobby / job once I graduated college as an engineer. Then I later moved onto the miniature hobby. I never once had a clog but I also never kept my airbrushes in water. I did do was before starting to paint was run half an airbrush cup of water through the brush before starting or as I was taught, use Airbrush Lubricant (like that from Badger) or simply a few drops of flow improver. I do use a ultrasonic cleaner but I do not keep the parts in water. I take them out, dry them and assemble and then prime the airbrush as I stated with water, airbrush lubricant or flow improver. I agree do not start completely dry but you do not need to keep parts in water. Never heard of that and never followed that advice and no issues over 30yrs.
Long time viewer and first time commenting. Nice video on the overall aspect of cleaning your airbrush. I do a similar method just w/different cleaner sequence. I use Tamiya Air Brush cleaner in between airbrushing, then when I do a final clean, I use that same Iwata Cleaner in my Magnasonic cleaner machine, then rinse with water. Keeping the airbrush in water when not in use sounds Genius! Never heard of that technique, and I've been airbrushing for 30+ years. Will have to give that a go. Thanks for a very informative video. Take care.
very similar technique here... i use those long pipettes (a squeeze bottle would work even better).. I pull the trigger back (no air on) to open the needle/nozzle, then insert the tip of my pipette as far into the cup/orifice as it can go then i squirt the water/cleaner/flow improver in there.. a nice amount of it will get forced out the nozzle.. then i release the pipette to suck up the left over juice and discard it into a cup, then repeat a few more times with the various cleaning liquids till i am happy and cant see any paint left in there on the needle or the cup.
Here is a pro tip for Harder and Steenbeck users like myself - do not backflush too early. Clean out the cup first until the water is not cloudy anymore (squirt bottle helps). Iwata and Iwata clones are fine like described above but HS brushes really make you regret backflushing because the paint goes everywhere inside the device.
I was thinking this as I was watching
@@TheMiniMadCat I was following an advice like this once and thought it had to be said. Not all airbrushes are created equal
I have the evolution and can't realy backflush because the needle cap is slotted. i've tried cupping my palm around it and taping it but the pressure will always find a way. I guess, I could screw the cap of and put my finger directly on the nozzle but I'm afraid I might damage the needle.
@@agileriposte there are small caps you can buy for this exact reason. 127990 is the part number from HS
@@RobOngrui Thank you!
Wow, thaks for this video! I never heard or would hav thought of that myself, keeping it in water between painting! Thanks so much!
I can imagine that the amount of time I have to leave between painting sessions that I wouldn't be able keep the airbrush wet and would hit the evaporation and mineral problem. I'll definitely try the rest of the cleaning steps though.
I use my airbrush much more frequently now, so it doesn’t really happen to me anymore, but in the early days of my airbrushing, there would be months of time between sessions sometimes. Thanks for watching!
If you need to keep it wet for long amounts of time get a mason jar with the lid and seal it shut. It will prevent the evaporation. Only problem is finding one that is big/tall enough to fit all the parts of your particular airbrush.
@@eingames9931 Mason jars are usually quite big.
Lol, that part that covers the back of the brush... I haven't seen that thing in years, but I know I own it.
once again, I heard something on this channel for the first time. Storing the airbrush submerged in water. I have ... never.. .ever ... remotely.. heard that. And I would have never even thought that this is a good idea, but yeah,.. makes sense when you think about it. And this comes at exactly the right time.. I just primed some minis and hat a rough start.. as my airbrush had some clogging issues... again.. thanks for the tipp!
8:49 Promotional Stratosphere? I have a similar method, but it starts with water, rinsing out the cup so I don't put more paint through it. Once I get most of the paint out, I backflow with water, spray it out, then backflow with the cleaner and spray that out. The keeping it submerged is new to me.
What is the reason for storing the airbrush in water? I can understand giving it a good soak in water or cleaner to break up any stray paint after cleaning, but how does keeping it submerged prevent clogs? The only effect it would have that I can think of is that everything would be slightly moist inside when you start painting. But you would get the same effect by dunking it all in water before starting right?
these are good tips. thanks. will start using these from today.
I've never heard to keep your airbrush submerged in water. Amazing tip. I went to the Art Institute, but focused mainly on digital media. I have an Iwata airbrush from 2013 that I basically tucked into a box and haven't touched until today. Needless to say, the needle is stuck. Going through a process of my own to try to unseize and revive this old airbrush.
A toothbrush works great to get paint out of the cup. I also use a container of water next to my paint station that I clean my airbrush in. Makes color changes easy.
I didn't know I needed this today but I sure did. Thank you good sir.
Just started using my airbrush I got for Christmas. Thanks for the info
Great tip never heard of keeping it wet before,the only thing i do different which a few folk have mentioned is ,i don't shoot anything through the nozzle unless its going onto a model or piece of scenery i much prefer to dump it .
Thanks for the detailed instructions on airbrush cleaning! Especially the tip about keeping the airbrush wet between sessions. Wow, I've never seen that advice before.
I'm new to airbrushing and definitely needed this. Thanks brother!
This is the type of content we need!
this was an excellent video. ive had patriot 105 forever but only recently started using it and it does not like my thinner or something cause it jams on the drop of a hat
I use water to clean it out. It requires a little more effort to fully clean out but I haven't had issues with it using my paints. I Also have isopropyl alcohol if I worked with a chalkier paint. Not sure why you think isopropyl alcohol is expensive since I pick it up at the local grocery store for $3-$4 at 32oz. It regularly goes on sale for under $3 a bottle and I stock up for my 3d printer.
Where do you guys dump your chemical/paint/water when it starts to fill up? I have a pot with a filter that I just noticed is darn near full?
Great advise! The habit formation is very important.
My only problem is that the water in my region is so full of "sediment" the I can't even touch the airbrush with the tap water if I don't want to have it calcified instantly :(
Then I would use distilled water. You might have to keep an eye on it because it can get a little weird, but some folks have said that some copper wire in the distilled water will help with any growth. Thanks for watching!
I make my own airbrush cleaner, 1/3 water, 1/3 denatured alcohol, 1/3 summer wind screen cleaner and a few drops of glycerin. And I never leave the needle in airbrush when done painting. Needles have a tendency to get stuck due to dry paint in the seals
Hello and thank you very much for posting your video(s). I find them very helpful. I am hoping you could help me with a couple of questions. I have a smaller antique safe that was my grandfathers. The paint is badly worn off. I will be sanding the entire safe and I plan on repainting it and adding a bit of art. I have NEVER used an airbrush! I would appreciate any suggestions for the following:
1) what BLACK colored paint product to spray the entire safe with once it is sanded to bare steel?
2) what paint product to use in my air sprayer?
3) what paint product to spray over the entire safe, in order to give it a clear coat as protection for the black paint and the artwork?
Thank you very much in advance, it is appreciated!
WOW! This is the best video you've made, since your wet pallet video! Well done!!!
great stuff as always! i haven't gotten to the stage of airbrushing beyond priming and base coating. the climate in WI doesn't always play nice with the spray cans, as i'm sure you know.
When you use any brand of airbrush cleaner you are effectivly buying and transporting alot of water. Just mix it yourself. It's basically diluted alcohol. If that too much of a hassle, my go to cleaner is the blue liquid that sprays on the windshield of your car (not sure what it's called). Buy it concentrated and dilute with water according to the instructions on the bottle. You are still paying for water, but at least it's less expensive and you don't need to ship it from Amazon.
Primer causes the most headaches for me, usually clogging mid job. Makes sense, it's designed to stick. Do you prime with your airbrush and if so what do you do to keep that from clogging?
Are you using badger stynylrez? I love how well it sticks to the model and the matte finish but boy does it clog and it’s a pain to clean the gun after using it. I got the 3 pack (black, white and grey) and the black and grey even thinned give the most problems. I am now testing vallejo’s primer and it’s behaving much better making it easier to clean and not clogging.
I use flow improver and a generous amount of thinner, all from Vallejo. With some intermediate cleaning I can prime for a couple of hours with very few issues.
If its just a cleaning step between color changes, I found that putting my airbrush on a quick release really helped without having to turn the airbrush off and made cleaning less painful.
Adam, this video may be a huge timesaver for me. Thank you.
I do use cleaner as a second step of 3. I start with heated Purple Power or Simple Green-10% concentration. Heated is the magic. I brush the cup with a stiff brush then dump or suction. I do not spray this first cleaning mix through. Repeat. Then repeat with backflush. Then spray cleaner through with backflush. Then distilled water. Then disassemble and wipe needle and dental brush the nozzle. 5 minutes.
Great tips as usual. Didn't know you could soak it... Only thing I would mention is if you bewn doing a lot of ultrasonic cleaning I destroyed the seals on my first airbruah because the water got too hot as I was using it between colours. If anyone uses an ultrasonic cleaner and the water geta warm chanhe it to some fresh cold water and your seals will be fine.
My ultrasonic cleaners have always been cheap enough that they don’t have a heating element, so no worries there. Thanks for watching!
Science sidebar: ultrasonic cleaners use cavitation to do the cleaning, which generates heat - no heating element required!
This was extremely helpful.
This is the very reason why airbrushing drives me crazy! Thank You!
I’m gonna have to watch this again; all I could picture was whoever built your house 100 years ago watching you in awe from beyond the grave.
In all seriousness though, this is a workflow I started about a year ago and I was certain I was being lazy and it would eventually ruin my cheap brush. So far it’s done nothing but work like a charm, so I’d say it was a successful experiment!
LOVED THIS!!! It is an excellent how-to video: clear, concise & just the right length! Thank you so much & I look forward to seeing more content along these lines! 😁👍
I don't recommend that Iwata airbrush cleaner. I wear a respirator and have good ventilation. That stuff still messes with me long after I have finished. Fumes are not good.
Here's my mix. It works great and I have no issues with fumes afterwards. I mix mine in those popular squeeze bottles (wash bottles)
*Airbrush Cleaner
87g - Distilled-water
87g - Simply Green
58g -91% Iso Alc
5+ drop Glycerin
*Secondary Recipe
70% Distilled-water
30% Ammonia Free Glass Cleaner
Iso Alc 3-4 Tbsp
5-10 drops Glycerin
I use DIY cleaner and thinner made by following Grumpy Modeler's UA-cam video. Works pretty good for me. I do use army Painter thinner/medium just for adding a little to the cup before I add paint. I do get some dry tip sometimes but I definitely always paint way too much without rinsing/cleaning. I just add a little more cleaner, backflow, spray, add thinner, spray, and keep painting.
Interesting... I ordered airbrush (in hope to get rid of spray bottles), and ended up looking some videos for beginners - some of them from professionals. And non of them mentioned A) that their airbrush never clog, or B) idea to build water temple to around of your airbrush (well, that is my reading of suggestion!).
But that make sense. Ultrasonic cleaner probably take away need for keep them wet, since it actually clean parts very well, but it does not hurt to keep parts there, if you do not need the device for anything else (and if you have such).
I have found a great tool for cleaning the cup: makeup swabs. They have small sponges on the end and can reach around the needle.
Cleaner .
I use a mix of simple green, distilled water and iso.
Also you're probably better off taking the needle out from the front after taking the spray nozzle off.
Then reinstalling the needle from the front as well using the spray nozzle as an alignment guide before tighting the needle grip.
This also prevents any damage to any needle seals.
I hope this works… one of the most helpful videos I’ve heard so far thank you
Tech Tip re keeping Air Brush in water / Cleaner is new info - will give it a try, thanks Atom
Great tips.
I put the nozzle only, by itself, in alcohol whenever my airbrush is not in use.
Never had a clog since I started doing that 3 years ago.
It goes without saying, I don't think alcohol is good for rubber, so only the metal nozzle.
I first remove the nozzle and then push the needle through the front. That way I don't drag paint through my whole Airbrush. For Cleaning Isopropanol works great.
Hmm, I'm almost out of rubbing alcohol, which I use to clean my airbrush, and I had a 3/4th full bottle when I bought an airbrush and started painting, so really I don't know the price. I didn't know they're more expensive than airbrush cleaners, I'll have to look into that. Leave in water? I've actually seen one comment on Amazon review where a guy left his in water for two days and it rusted, I forgot where or what model he had. I have a Casubaris and a Master G233, which both are of good quality, and once in a great while, even though I keep them very clean (and dried), they do tend to start out a bit plugged so I wet them down, blow water through and they're fine. One UA-camr said start out with water first, get it flowing first before start painting, so that's what I do now. If you say that airbrushes don't rust, then I'm willing to take that chance with the Casubaris. If that goes well, then I'll start keeping them both in water. Thanks for the tip on that, needless to say cause someone's airbrush rusted (as per a comment on Amazon), I'm honestly a little skeptical, but willing to try. Your tips are very helpful, thanks so much!
Great video. It will be interesting to see the videos from this new space going forward.
I know it's been a while, Anyway I clean my airbrush, with winter windshield wiper fluid. Contains mostly some iso and clean water. I use for flushing between colors. For deep cleaning airbrush i use the Iwata cleaner. At least here Iwata cleaner is more expensive than Isopropyl, but It doesn't smell so bad.
"It's never been clogged" - now you've jinxed it! D
great tips dude, I've clogged probably 3 airbrush guns that I haven't been able to clean properly. Gonna give your tips a shot now.
Very helpful video. Keep up the good work.
Saved for when I get an airbrush.
Also I was mostly surprised that no owl showed up carrying a letter.
No window in that room. There’s the issue. Thanks for watching!
I know this probably isnt the best, but I use brake cleaner/carb cleaner. Just a couple sprays removes all blocks/clogs I have ever gotten
I use nail polish remover as an airbrush cleaner. I only airpaint using hobby acrylic paint, so the solvent rips the old paint apart instantly.
I find my airbrush constantly clogs in the middle of a paint session even without changing colors... it will be flowing great then clog up. I have found that doing short bursts of spray makes it better, but the last little part that the needle goes through at the end is always backing up. I have a hi-end airbrush and I struggle with preventing it from getting clogged...what could I be doing wrong... much appreciated