Even though the video is a year old, great job👍👏. Here is why most laser users need an alternative like tape to prevent charred edges or on the material: they lack sufficient power in their air-assists. Most laser brands provide air-assist lpm (liters per minute) that is too low for the type of laser module that comes with the machine. Most typical air-assists offer no more than 30 lpm, which is not strong enough for a 40-watt laser module. A 20-watt laser module with a 30 lpm air-assist just barely does its job. Many laser companies keep costs down by supplying their lasers with only a 30 lpm air-assist. In fact, most laser companies don’t make their own air-assists; they purchase them through third parties. I’m currently in discussions with xTool regarding their S1 laser, which comes with an underperforming air-assist that is insufficient for cutting any type of material with a 40-watt module. Time will tell if xTool evaluates the low performance of their air-assist. FYI: Air-assist is the most important part of a laser. It is crucial for your laser to prevent fires, avoid charring, and help the laser perform better in both cutting and engraving in time. A low-performance air-assist will cause all the aforementioned issues. The lpm for an air-assist needs to be at least twice the laser module wattage. Anything below will result in underperformance on all projects. Currently, there are only two 3rd party companies that make an air-assist at 50 lpm or 60 lpm that I’m aware of. The 60 lpm model I purchased was junk. I have not done this yet, but I am researching a better solution versus tape: using an air compressor. From my studies, an air compressor provides not just a cleaner cut with no charred but also improves the laser's engraving or cutting time. Most laser users switching to air compressors as an alternative use a small portable pancake-style compressor, and I haven’t found any drawbacks yet. This suggestion may be the route to go since most companies are not supplying their laser machines with more powerful air-assists. And with an air compressor is just a one time cost. Alternatively, using tape isn’t a bad option, but it is expensive and will always have to repurchase. That said, just my thoughts for another alternative vs tape. 😎
Thanks so much for the detailed video. Thoroughly enjoyed the comparison between the masked portion vs the non-masked portion. I also did not know that alcohol can be a useful product. Thanks again.
Wow! Thank you so much for sharing your knowledge. This topic was one of the most frustrating to figure out as a newbie and that’s adding laser work to a side hustle. Just a couple of questions: 1) to paint, do you seal the wood, tape it, engrave, seal again and then paint? 2) Could polyurethane work to seal? 3)what tape do you recommend for acrylic if the acrylic doesn’t have masking on it? Thanks in advance!
Yes here is our prep process for all stained or painted wood products. 1. Sand with 220 grit 2. Remove dust 3. Optional stain 4. Seal with polyurethane or lacquer 5. Light sand with 220, remove dust 6. Tape board 7. Engrave it 8. Spray poly or lacquer (don’t remove tape) 9. Paint 10. Seal last time with poly
Well, I used the brand you like on Basswood and my test piece turned out to be a hot mess with the masked engraving. (I’d already ordered it and it was delivered by the time I finished your video.) I couldn’t even see the details. To be fair, I have an xTool 20W diode laser. I’m wondering if there is some other masking tape that will work with it because the white masking tape doesn’t work. I haven’t had luck with the blue masking tape either. The only masking that has worked for me is the masking tape that comes on the back of acrylic. Any thoughts or suggestions?
Hi Stephanie, While I don’t have an X-tool, if the tape is inhibiting your engraving, you will have to adjust either speed or power. For example: I would try doing small versions of a logo at speeds stepping down in speed. This should help you find the sweet spot with power vs speed when using tape.
I haven't tried this yet but was thinking if you spray the wood with clear shellac to seal it up before taping. I've used shellac when doing epoxy inlays and it prevents the epoxy leaking into the grain. It may also prevent the burn over flashing and also make it much easier to remove the soot if the top of the wood is sealed. It will also help the tape to stick better. I noticed this stuff he's using is for vinyl which is a very smooth finish.
Thank you for letting us know! Hopefully this one will work for you: www.amazon.com/dp/B09K1ZT1KF/ref=sspa_dk_detail_0?psc=1&pd_rd_i=B09K1ZT1KF&pd_rd_w=goQuO&content-id=amzn1.sym.f734d1a2-0bf9-4a26-ad34-2e1b969a5a75&pf_rd_p=f734d1a2-0bf9-4a26-ad34-2e1b969a5a75&pf_rd_r=QBZ4GZ3FA44DZ2A3BWDM&pd_rd_wg=EAKjA&pd_rd_r=f66e1933-ad4f-4ccc-b185-6d8dca419677&s=industrial&sp_csd=d2lkZ2V0TmFtZT1zcF9kZXRhaWw
@@wiredoakdesigns2179 First, thank you very much for sharing your experience and good advice. Second, is the link above is for your Favorite Tape? because links in the description do not work.
Even though the video is a year old, great job👍👏. Here is why most laser users need an alternative like tape to prevent charred edges or on the material: they lack sufficient power in their air-assists. Most laser brands provide air-assist lpm (liters per minute) that is too low for the type of laser module that comes with the machine. Most typical air-assists offer no more than 30 lpm, which is not strong enough for a 40-watt laser module. A 20-watt laser module with a 30 lpm air-assist just barely does its job. Many laser companies keep costs down by supplying their lasers with only a 30 lpm air-assist. In fact, most laser companies don’t make their own air-assists; they purchase them through third parties.
I’m currently in discussions with xTool regarding their S1 laser, which comes with an underperforming air-assist that is insufficient for cutting any type of material with a 40-watt module. Time will tell if xTool evaluates the low performance of their air-assist.
FYI: Air-assist is the most important part of a laser. It is crucial for your laser to prevent fires, avoid charring, and help the laser perform better in both cutting and engraving in time. A low-performance air-assist will cause all the aforementioned issues. The lpm for an air-assist needs to be at least twice the laser module wattage. Anything below will result in underperformance on all projects.
Currently, there are only two 3rd party companies that make an air-assist at 50 lpm or 60 lpm that I’m aware of. The 60 lpm model I purchased was junk. I have not done this yet, but I am researching a better solution versus tape: using an air compressor. From my studies, an air compressor provides not just a cleaner cut with no charred but also improves the laser's engraving or cutting time. Most laser users switching to air compressors as an alternative use a small portable pancake-style compressor, and I haven’t found any drawbacks yet. This suggestion may be the route to go since most companies are not supplying their laser machines with more powerful air-assists. And with an air compressor is just a one time cost. Alternatively, using tape isn’t a bad option, but it is expensive and will always have to repurchase. That said, just my thoughts for another alternative vs tape. 😎
Thanks so much for the detailed video. Thoroughly enjoyed the comparison between the masked portion vs the non-masked portion. I also did not know that alcohol can be a useful product. Thanks again.
Wow! Thank you so much for sharing your knowledge. This topic was one of the most frustrating to figure out as a newbie and that’s adding laser work to a side hustle. Just a couple of questions: 1) to paint, do you seal the wood, tape it, engrave, seal again and then paint? 2) Could polyurethane work to seal? 3)what tape do you recommend for acrylic if the acrylic doesn’t have masking on it? Thanks in advance!
Yes here is our prep process for all stained or painted wood products.
1. Sand with 220 grit
2. Remove dust
3. Optional stain
4. Seal with polyurethane or lacquer
5. Light sand with 220, remove dust
6. Tape board
7. Engrave it
8. Spray poly or lacquer (don’t remove tape)
9. Paint
10. Seal last time with poly
Thanks!!
Thank you for making this video. Never considered using Masking tape.
It's a game changer!
Well, I used the brand you like on Basswood and my test piece turned out to be a hot mess with the masked engraving. (I’d already ordered it and it was delivered by the time I finished your video.) I couldn’t even see the details. To be fair, I have an xTool 20W diode laser. I’m wondering if there is some other masking tape that will work with it because the white masking tape doesn’t work. I haven’t had luck with the blue masking tape either. The only masking that has worked for me is the masking tape that comes on the back of acrylic. Any thoughts or suggestions?
Hi Stephanie,
While I don’t have an X-tool, if the tape is inhibiting your engraving, you will have to adjust either speed or power. For example: I would try doing small versions of a logo at speeds stepping down in speed. This should help you find the sweet spot with power vs speed when using tape.
Ah. Thanks. I’ll give it a shot!
I haven't tried this yet but was thinking if you spray the wood with clear shellac to seal it up before taping. I've used shellac when doing epoxy inlays and it prevents the epoxy leaking into the grain. It may also prevent the burn over flashing and also make it much easier to remove the soot if the top of the wood is sealed. It will also help the tape to stick better. I noticed this stuff he's using is for vinyl which is a very smooth finish.
Could not see what brand you recommend.
The Brand is TapeManBlue. There is a link in the description if you are looking to buy it!
The links do not work. Can you share the tape you use or the Amazon link please?
Thank you for letting us know! Hopefully this one will work for you: www.amazon.com/dp/B09K1ZT1KF/ref=sspa_dk_detail_0?psc=1&pd_rd_i=B09K1ZT1KF&pd_rd_w=goQuO&content-id=amzn1.sym.f734d1a2-0bf9-4a26-ad34-2e1b969a5a75&pf_rd_p=f734d1a2-0bf9-4a26-ad34-2e1b969a5a75&pf_rd_r=QBZ4GZ3FA44DZ2A3BWDM&pd_rd_wg=EAKjA&pd_rd_r=f66e1933-ad4f-4ccc-b185-6d8dca419677&s=industrial&sp_csd=d2lkZ2V0TmFtZT1zcF9kZXRhaWw
@@wiredoakdesigns2179 First, thank you very much for sharing your experience and good advice. Second, is the link above is for your Favorite Tape? because links in the description do not work.