You saved my life. That frickin valve gave me a meltdown until I found your video. I turned the valve the 45 degrees but it wouldn't budge so I never knew if I was in the right area. I did manage to feel it was in the right area and used a mini tool to pop off. PITA for sure! Thank you!
Thx for this video. I had this issue and followed your guidance to clear the SES code. It’s real tight in there. Had to use pliers with curved tip to get the connector off. It was a real PITA, but doable.
2009 Murano here - vid worked - thanks bud. Its MUCH easier to access on the Murano. Its sitting fore of the rear muffler - just crawled under the rear of the car and swapped it out. That original OEM part isn't carried anymore they switched to a newer model thats made in China lol - but I'm guessing it'll work just as long.
They're called Grease Monkey or something. They come in 10 packs or something from Sam's Club. They have a nice tacky rubber coating on the hand for grip on tools and parts. No protection from knuckle busting though. I love them. Cheap enough to toss when they get overly soaked in grease or oil and that you can throw them away and Ive never worn a hole in one
It was a bear, limited space and difficult connector. Successfully R&Red Valve today. How long did take for the light to go off? Thank you for the help and video
Took mine about 5 days but that's because my commute to work never gets me over 40 mph I believe. As soon as I got it to highway speed the following weekend it went off
Hey, I’m doing this job right now and can’t get that upper electrical plug apart. Question, do you have to press on a tab at the top first to disconnect or do you lift up with a screwdriver then pull apart? Thanks
Hey, sorry I didn't get back to you sooner but I was out of cell range. It's just a clip you pinch. All Nissan electrical clips are tough. If you have a pair of needle nose pliers with the bent tip, they will work real well. Good luck
Hi. Great video. Did the check engine light clear once you were done or did you have to drive a bit? Or did you have to get it cleared using an OBD2 scanner? Thanks
I did not clear immediately. You'll have to drive it a bit. I live on post so it didn't clear at those low speeds. I had to take it on a drive. It did reset on its own though. No OBD2. Airborne!
@@senpailonestarr2787 An open circuit means your not getting electric signal to something. It could be a faulty sensor. Sometimes even new parts are bad. Or you may have damaged the wire to the sensor itself. You would need a continuity tester to test it. Also known as a circuit tester. Or it could be as simple as you didn't reconnect the sensor completely.
@@Flying_Dollar_Motorsports I think maybe I didn’t connect the power correctly cause I didn’t hear a click when I attached it to the device. Thanks for a quick repose!
May I ask what issues you were having while driving? Any jerking? I have a frontier 4.0 V6. I noticed when I was pumping gas, it would spill out on the ground ( happen twice) I notice my truck will jerk/rock back when accelerating from a dead stop and even when I come to a complete stop, it'll slightly rock back a tiny bit. Almost as if it chokes up. I honestly thought my driver seat was loose and needed to tighten the bolts lol. Doesn't happen all the time but it definitely gets annoying when it does happen. Did you have any issues like mine? Thanks in advance
Nice to meet you. I'm riding a g37 in Japan. The check engine light is on and the p0447 code has been entered, but is the part number "23710-JL23A" in this video correct? I think it's hard to understand with Google Translate, but thank you for your understanding.
The part number your mentioning looks like it's an Engine Control Module. That's not what you want. There are multiple OEM part numbers for the vapor canister vent valve solenoid and they almost all start with 14935. Here's one, 14935JF00A
@@Flying_Dollar_Motorsports I see! That's what it is! I was very troubled when I was told by a Japanese dealer that they did not know the cause of this fault code. I will order the part with this part number and try to replace it! Thank you very much!
@@Flying_Dollar_Motorsports I did fix mine after 7 hours of sitting under the back end and changed all sensors and hoses at the cost of $450. most parts from Rockauto I saved about half the cost . My next job is oil pan leak
It's possible you got a faulty part. I replaced my fan clutch pulley bracket and a few months later it blew apart and left me stranded. It happens. If he replaced the part and the code remained, I would say it was an electrical issue
Soo my question is how do you get your hand in that space? My hand won't fit!! Did you do something different to get the space to get your hand in?? Please help???
If it's the same code, it is probably the same problem. However, the EVAP canister on an Altima is likely to be different from an Xterra and frontier so this video probably won't be exact. Probably a similar process but I can't be sure. I've never worked on an Altima
I just checked Rock Auto and it looks like some of the parts numbers match so it may use the same stuff. Please research and confirm before purchasing though
@@Flying_Dollar_Motorsports crazy I replaced the part and deleted and scanned it same code p0447 I'm stumped thinking about removing charcoal canister do u know wat sensor is next to this one
@@user-ff9ij1zg8f Hmmm? Well, the code is for a general code for the PCM reading an EVAP system malfunction so it could be a few things if that didn't fix it Faulty or loose fuel cap Faulty purge control solenoid Charcoal canister clogged or broken Fuel vapor hoses cracked or broken Vacuum lines cracked or broken Faulty pressure sensor Faulty flow sensor
You saved my life. That frickin valve gave me a meltdown until I found your video. I turned the valve the 45 degrees but it wouldn't budge so I never knew if I was in the right area. I did manage to feel it was in the right area and used a mini tool to pop off. PITA for sure! Thank you!
Glad I could help!
Thx for this video. I had this issue and followed your guidance to clear the SES code. It’s real tight in there. Had to use pliers with curved tip to get the connector off. It was a real PITA, but doable.
Glad it helped. Thanks for watching!
2009 Murano here - vid worked - thanks bud. Its MUCH easier to access on the Murano. Its sitting fore of the rear muffler - just crawled under the rear of the car and swapped it out. That original OEM part isn't carried anymore they switched to a newer model thats made in China lol - but I'm guessing it'll work just as long.
Yeah it's getting harder to find OEM parts on a lot of older cars anymore.
Glad I could help.
Thanks for watching.
Good job. Thank you
Good job thank you
Good video Thank you!!
Sure thing. Hope it helped
Thanks very good info you forget to have me discont the battery to reset computer thanks again.
You don't have to. At least I didn't have to
Thanks for the heads up esp, the extra time for the view. 👍 What gloves are those, looks like decent protection without much bulk.
They're called Grease Monkey or something. They come in 10 packs or something from Sam's Club. They have a nice tacky rubber coating on the hand for grip on tools and parts. No protection from knuckle busting though. I love them. Cheap enough to toss when they get overly soaked in grease or oil and that you can throw them away and Ive never worn a hole in one
Go Terps!!! And TY.
It was a bear, limited space and difficult connector. Successfully R&Red Valve today. How long did take for the light to go off? Thank you for the help and video
Took mine about 5 days but that's because my commute to work never gets me over 40 mph I believe. As soon as I got it to highway speed the following weekend it went off
Great deal bud
Hey, I’m doing this job right now and can’t get that upper electrical plug apart. Question, do you have to press on a tab at the top first to disconnect or do you lift up with a screwdriver then pull apart? Thanks
Hey, sorry I didn't get back to you sooner but I was out of cell range.
It's just a clip you pinch. All Nissan electrical clips are tough. If you have a pair of needle nose pliers with the bent tip, they will work real well. Good luck
Hi. Great video. Did the check engine light clear once you were done or did you have to drive a bit? Or did you have to get it cleared using an OBD2 scanner? Thanks
I did not clear immediately. You'll have to drive it a bit. I live on post so it didn't clear at those low speeds. I had to take it on a drive. It did reset on its own though. No OBD2.
Airborne!
I’m have some issues where I replaced it from have a evap leak and now the new is is saying open circuit. Did I do anything wrong?
@@senpailonestarr2787 An open circuit means your not getting electric signal to something. It could be a faulty sensor. Sometimes even new parts are bad. Or you may have damaged the wire to the sensor itself. You would need a continuity tester to test it. Also known as a circuit tester. Or it could be as simple as you didn't reconnect the sensor completely.
@@Flying_Dollar_Motorsports I think maybe I didn’t connect the power correctly cause I didn’t hear a click when I attached it to the device. Thanks for a quick repose!
May I ask what issues you were having while driving? Any jerking? I have a frontier 4.0 V6. I noticed when I was pumping gas, it would spill out on the ground ( happen twice) I notice my truck will jerk/rock back when accelerating from a dead stop and even when I come to a complete stop, it'll slightly rock back a tiny bit. Almost as if it chokes up. I honestly thought my driver seat was loose and needed to tighten the bolts lol. Doesn't happen all the time but it definitely gets annoying when it does happen. Did you have any issues like mine? Thanks in advance
No. There was no noticable behaviors from the truck other than the check engine light.
@@Flying_Dollar_Motorsports I see. Thanks for the quick response. Much appreciated
Have you figured out what it was
@@glock316 all I did was put fuel additive in the tank. The gas spilling problem has stopped but I still feel the jerk every now and then
Helpful
That's the goal. Glad I could help
Nice to meet you. I'm riding a g37 in Japan. The check engine light is on and the p0447 code has been entered, but is the part number "23710-JL23A" in this video correct? I think it's hard to understand with Google Translate, but thank you for your understanding.
What year is your G37?
あなたの車は何年式ですか
@@Flying_Dollar_Motorsports
thank you for your reply. It's a 2008 model.
The part number your mentioning looks like it's an Engine Control Module. That's not what you want.
There are multiple OEM part numbers for the vapor canister vent valve solenoid and they almost all start with 14935. Here's one, 14935JF00A
@@Flying_Dollar_Motorsports
I see! That's what it is!
I was very troubled when I was told by a Japanese dealer that they did not know the cause of this fault code.
I will order the part with this part number and try to replace it!
Thank you very much!
My 2002 X has 4 sensors back by the charcoal canister plus different size vacuum hoses
2002 is a different generation Xterra. They were redesigned for 2005 so they won't match. You need to find instructions for a first generation X.
@@Flying_Dollar_Motorsports I did fix mine after 7 hours of sitting under the back end and changed all sensors and hoses at the cost of $450. most parts from Rockauto I saved about half the cost . My next job is oil pan leak
@@paulairola7041 $450😳
Have a 06 Sentra and have code p0448 for 2 years now took it to mechanic change Evap vent control valve and 6 months after code re appears
It's possible you got a faulty part. I replaced my fan clutch pulley bracket and a few months later it blew apart and left me stranded. It happens. If he replaced the part and the code remained, I would say it was an electrical issue
Do you have an Instagram for this rig? I have a Pathfinder, but think I need an Xterra now.
I don't. I don't really use any other form of social media besides UA-cam.
Thanks for watching though
Could you clean with brake cleaner or something like this?
Unlikely. It's usually just worn out but it's worth a shot. You have to let it dry thoroughly before reinstalling it though.
Well, did fix the problem? Thanks for the video
Sure did!👍
Soo my question is how do you get your hand in that space? My hand won't fit!! Did you do something different to get the space to get your hand in?? Please help???
So I have a 2 inch body lift that makes a little room for me to work.
Try loosening or removing the evap canister
@@Flying_Dollar_Motorsports okay ill try that. Good looks
Do you know if this will work on 2011 altima?? I've been trying to fix this for weeks now and nothing works. TIA
If it's the same code, it is probably the same problem. However, the EVAP canister on an Altima is likely to be different from an Xterra and frontier so this video probably won't be exact. Probably a similar process but I can't be sure. I've never worked on an Altima
I just checked Rock Auto and it looks like some of the parts numbers match so it may use the same stuff. Please research and confirm before purchasing though
@@Flying_Dollar_Motorsports thank you!!! I will double check and see if this works.
I have the same part on my nissan sentra thing is i took it out and wen i shake it it rattles
That means it's no good
Thank u so much finna order one in a bit
@@Flying_Dollar_Motorsports crazy I replaced the part and deleted and scanned it same code p0447 I'm stumped thinking about removing charcoal canister do u know wat sensor is next to this one
@@user-ff9ij1zg8f Hmmm? Well, the code is for a general code for the PCM reading an EVAP system malfunction so it could be a few things if that didn't fix it
Faulty or loose fuel cap
Faulty purge control solenoid
Charcoal canister clogged or broken
Fuel vapor hoses cracked or broken
Vacuum lines cracked or broken
Faulty pressure sensor
Faulty flow sensor