Hello 👋 nice videos Have you ever thought of doing videos explaining what every component's purpose is. Like for example, what do solenoids do, what are there purpose? Another question would be, how exactly do dumps work, the actuator, what happens internally? Thanks. ✌
Hope this isn’t a dumb question, I’m about to buy a 2 pump 4 batt hoppos hydraulic kit so I am studying all I can on installing it! I got everything down I think except one question When installing a aftermarket 10 switch box do all my fronts for example my “left front corner, both front, right front” do all these connect to the one solenoid ? I’m not understanding where the other wires pancake corners etc go if appreciate any help thank you!!
Heriberto Otero anything with 900 CCA or more for the cheapest dollar amount. Different areas have different options available. Check with any battery supplier, see what you can get the best bang for your buck.
How do u wire 4 dumps to one pump can u do a video on that I have a four wheeler bycycle I want to put hydros on but I only want to run one pump since the bike isn't heavy like a car
Do the solenoids have to sit flush on the metal or can they be raised I wanted to weld 10 mm bolts to my rack so my solenoids can sit on them and be bolted down but idk if it'll work since the bottom of the solenoids would be raised off the metal on the rack
What about just a simple lay and play how many batteries and pumps should be needed. ? And is it literally the same set up? I have a 90 Lincoln I’ve seen videos that look as though they wire things differently especially with the lines I didn’t see no lines in this video. I could pay someone but I feel I can do it myself especially since I’m familiar with some things I just want A-Z perfect guidelines. Any advice I’ve been looking throughout all your vids and just writing things down and drawing stuff to make sense. So anything that can help from your or anyone I’d greatly appreciate it thank you
Hello , thanks for your great video's !! I have a 79 Elco , and I want to juce the front , nothing big just simply up and down , what size Sillinders would I need , with stock a arms ?? If you could let me know I would highly appreciate it ,thanks for any time you could give me !!
No, orange wire only connects to one dump. Each dump will have its own dump wire unless you only have 3 dumps. For example, if you have a 3 pump setup with only 3 dumps, 1 pump to the front and 2 pumps to the back, you would then have 2 wires connected to the front dump so that all the switches on the switchbox acts right.
Awesome video I’ve learned so much and can now rely on myself I appreciate this mucho grande! I was wondering what size is that piece you’re using to connect your solenoids together I don’t like the cable one
If I had to guess I’d say something is grounding out. Maybe you have a loose wire somewhere that is touching something it shouldn’t. Could be that you solenoids are not grounded good enough. Could be any number of things with the wiring or grounds, my advice would be to follow every wire to see if you see any broken spots and check all your grounds, solenoids and pumps. One last thought, is your setup welded to the frame of the car or did they mount it to the body? That can play a big role in sparking, the body isn’t that good of a ground compared to the frame.
Not exactly, 1 solenoid per 2 batteries is the general rule. I run 3 solenoids with 4 batteries and 4 with 6 batteries. 8 and up I run a block solenoid type of setup or run the solenoids between the batteries so there isn’t so much load on them.
Jesus de la Isla no you don’t need two quick disconnects with 2 banks, say you are running 4 and 4, just connect the first negative of each bank and then ground one of them. You can get quick disconnects from any hydraulic shop or most of your local welding accessory shops have them. One like in the video is from a fork lift.
I'm gonna be doing my quick disconnect so do I loosen up the Allen wrench bolt then slide the 1 gauge in and tighten it up or do I solder it like battery cables ? Thanks for the videos I've been learning a lot.
Michael Mckay yes just slide the cable in then tighten it. Just in case you want to move your ground later you can put a longer or short cable. If you solder it your stuck with that cable.
Not likely. Check to make sure you’re not low on fluid. Solenoids don’t make a sound other than a click noise. Pumps make all the noise, more specifically the motor. If there is no fluid or it’s low on fluid the motor will spin faster because it has less resistance which make it higher pitch whining sound. Make sure the tank is full and see if that helps.
Would that mean, hypothetically..you would use that orange dump wire, for the black and brown pump lift wires?? Could you please make another video to explain it more clearly. I’m slow ha and thanks for the info you’re awesome for this 🙏👍🏽
No, dump means down, pump means up or lift. Dump wires do not connect to pump wires. If you need to know what wire goes to what in your switch box, I made another video that thoroughly explains how to figure that out. If you still need help, feel free to contact me through Facebook at “Lowrider Hydraulic Tips” I manage that page and you can send me pictures and videos of what you have and I’ll help you figure it out. This stuff can be complicated at times so don’t get discouraged.
Hey so I have two pump an a 4 battery set up I had someone help me set it up the batteries it works ok but I think I’m only running on two batteries not for my connect seems to b pulling off two batteries Do I hook positive to negative only or
I charge my batteries brand new group 31s they hit good an all that but losing charge fast only two batteries seem to b draining while the other two stay full but it’s like it’s only pulling off those two batteries an other two have no play in the system is that possible or could it b me using wrong charger
Great video. I bought a car with a six battery, two pump setup, using this same switch box. Front and back works correctly on the switch box, however the left and right, along with the rear left and right are backwards. (When I hit the left or right raise, the opposite side of the car raises. When I hit the left or right dump, the car dumps the opposite side as shown on the switch). What is the best and easiest way to correct this issue? Thanks!!
Russell Harris Lowrider Hydraulics, thanks for the quick reply. I swapped the four dumps and that seemed to put the switches in the correctly labeled spot. Being that it’s only a two pump, I still can’t raise my rear independently. I probably have the only 64 Impala out there that won’t do a three wheel. Doesn’t seem like the back right wants to dump far enough. I’ve followed your videos on how to three wheel and it just won’t do it. I’m thinking of adding a third pump, but don’t even know if that’ll do the trick.
With a 2 pump setup, you can’t lift each wheel individually, you can however dump each cylinder individually. With a two pump setup, you can only lift both front or both rear cylinders. Adding a third pump won’t necessarily fix your problem. Impalas need to with have a wish bone or Y Bar in the rear that will allow the car to twist, running the stock banana bar will restrict movement. Would also like to know how many batteries you are running. Generally you would need 8 batteries in order to stand on 3 with the setup you have.
Russell Harris Lowrider Hydraulics, the car does have a wish bone and is on six batteries. I did notice that driver side stroke runs through a 4” pipe that is welded to the floor, the passenger side does not have this sleeve. When I raise both rear and try to dump the right rear, this pipe (sleeve) is putting the left stroke into a major bind and only allows the right rear to go down about 1/3 of the full travel. I’m going to try to remove that pipe this weekend and see it allows the driver side stroke to move. The pipe is barely bigger than the stroke and it’s welded in crooked, compared to the stroke. Half ass looking work, to be honest. With the trunk open, looking at the strokes, the right side without the pipe will slightly move, as the car goes up and down. The driver side stroke with the pipe around it can’t hardly move at all. In what way would the addition of a third pump be beneficial? Thanks!
Yes remove the sleeve, that will help. 3rd pump would make it so the back can be lifted individually, so it makes it much easier to 3 wheel because there is no pressure on one of the cylinders. With that said, if there is not enough weight in the rear, you will still have trouble standing on 3.
@@LOWRIDERHYDRAULICS…I appreciate the quick reply. But how does it “share” the load when the full power is going through each one still? I’m also very experienced with Club Car golf carts. Golf carts run 4 solenoids. Bc they are used as gears. To apply more power the more ya press the pedal. So multiples for something like that makes since. But when all 3 are ran in series, the full load goes through each and every solenoid. So I’m just not seeing a benefit of this. I only have one solenoid per pump on my setup. But they are rated for the load. I’ve seen people double and triple up my whole life though. So I’m trying to get to the bottom of why they do this. I’m not being a dick or anything. I’m truly asking for education as to how they would share the load in this setup?
Keep in mind I am not an electrical engineer or anything but the way I understand it is you run multiple for a couple reason, one is to share the load and the other more important reason is each one is a “fail safe”. If you are just running one for example, if that solenoid gets hot and gets stuck open then you’ll have a fire pretty quick. For each additional solenoid the likely hood of 3 or more getting stuck open at the same time is less likely. The first solenoid in the group always tends to get the hottest first and most of the time it is the first to go out, but not always. When the voltage gets really high, we normally upgrade to a two bank solenoids setup that can support even more power by splitting the power to run through 2 sets of solenoids. I understand your logic, same power flows through them either way but from my experience, running 3 versus 2 you will have less problems with solenoids getting stuck open or going bad. The way it has been explained to me is it’s like sitting on a chair with 4 legs versus 3, it’s just more stable. Hope that helps
@@LOWRIDERHYDRAULICS first I absolutely appreciate this wisdom secondly, I researched this more last night myself. Sure as shit, it turns out when you run multiple solenoids in parallel they share the amp load. The same voltage indeed goes through all. But the amps are shared. I too am far from an electrical engineer, so this sounds ridiculous to me. I don’t see how it’s possible. With only one direct path for the current to flow through each one in parallel, I have no idea how this is possible. But again, this is what the electrical engineering books say. So this info coupled with your practical experience is good cause for me to change mine. I have 48v solenoids but like you said, I don’t have a safety for if it should stick closed. I guess it’s a good thing I chased all this down. Lastly, what part of TN are y’all in? I’m from Morristown. But live just south of Seattle now. So west coast scene with south East style. Currently rebuilding my original Sonoma all out with the late 90s/2000 style I grew up with. But using all modern parts and doing all the things I couldn’t afford as a kid. But thank you much again! I appreciate the education!
Your videos have guided me through my first hydraulic setup in my ‘65,thanks👍🏻it’s turned out great,gone bags to juice,hydraulics wins☝🏻👌🏻
Thats Right keep Teaching our Low rider Family.good simple knowledge .
It's a nice reminder to watch how to wire hydraulic
This disconect are sick ! 😱😍😎👌🏼
Thank you for the help Jose and Russell 👍🏼
You are a lifesaver for this video.. Thank you!!!
Hello 👋 nice videos
Have you ever thought of doing videos explaining what every component's purpose is. Like for example, what do solenoids do, what are there purpose? Another question would be, how exactly do dumps work, the actuator, what happens internally? Thanks. ✌
Hope this isn’t a dumb question, I’m about to buy a 2 pump 4 batt hoppos hydraulic kit so I am studying all I can on installing it! I got everything down I think except one question
When installing a aftermarket 10 switch box do all my fronts for example my “left front corner, both front, right front”
do all these connect to the one solenoid ? I’m not understanding where the other wires pancake corners etc go if appreciate any help thank you!!
why do you use more that one solenoid , is it for the current load ..?
thanks for your time
Yes. It’s to handle the voltage.
I appricate the vids i am a reborn Lowrider and now that i am an adult i want to do it right. THANKS
Thanks for this video bro it really help me👍🏼
How many types of switches are there @russell harris..
Can the black and brown wire matter which solenoid you connect ? Either the beginning or last?
What kind of wire you use for solenoids
Nice videos! Can you do a video of replacing a dump valves on a 2 pump set up
I have a set up what batteries can i use if you can tell me is very good
Heriberto Otero anything with 900 CCA or more for the cheapest dollar amount. Different areas have different options available. Check with any battery supplier, see what you can get the best bang for your buck.
Which one are these connected to the battery
Can you hook up both of the quick disconnect negatives too the negative battery terminals ? Or does it have too be grounded too the car ?
Terrific video 3:05
How do u wire 4 dumps to one pump can u do a video on that I have a four wheeler bycycle I want to put hydros on but I only want to run one pump since the bike isn't heavy like a car
Do the solenoids have to sit flush on the metal or can they be raised I wanted to weld 10 mm bolts to my rack so my solenoids can sit on them and be bolted down but idk if it'll work since the bottom of the solenoids would be raised off the metal on the rack
What about just a simple lay and play how many batteries and pumps should be needed. ? And is it literally the same set up? I have a 90 Lincoln I’ve seen videos that look as though they wire things differently especially with the lines I didn’t see no lines in this video. I could pay someone but I feel I can do it myself especially since I’m familiar with some things I just want A-Z perfect guidelines. Any advice I’ve been looking throughout all your vids and just writing things down and drawing stuff to make sense. So anything that can help from your or anyone I’d greatly appreciate it thank you
What size wire you use for the solenoid
I’m assuming you are asking for the size that the switchbox wire connects to, that is 16 gauge.
Thank you this really helped me out.. 👌👍👍.
Jose Beltran 👍🏻
Hello , thanks for your great video's !! I have a 79 Elco , and I want to juce the front , nothing big just simply up and down , what size Sillinders would I need , with stock a arms ?? If you could let me know I would highly appreciate it ,thanks for any time you could give me !!
8s are the tallest you want on the front.
Why do you need3 solenoids in series to control one motor?
Thanks for the info mang! Been trying to find info like this for a long time.
Why are the solenoids hooked in series, instead of parallel for current handling? Thnx for the helpful videos!
hi, one question.. why three solenoides in serie?
Does the orange wire that leads to the dumps does it hook onto all 4 of the dumps or how does that go?
No, orange wire only connects to one dump. Each dump will have its own dump wire unless you only have 3 dumps. For example, if you have a 3 pump setup with only 3 dumps, 1 pump to the front and 2 pumps to the back, you would then have 2 wires connected to the front dump so that all the switches on the switchbox acts right.
Awesome video I’ve learned so much and can now rely on myself I appreciate this mucho grande! I was wondering what size is that piece you’re using to connect your solenoids together I don’t like the cable one
I got spark on my quick connect won’t let me connect it why?
If I had to guess I’d say something is grounding out. Maybe you have a loose wire somewhere that is touching something it shouldn’t. Could be that you solenoids are not grounded good enough. Could be any number of things with the wiring or grounds, my advice would be to follow every wire to see if you see any broken spots and check all your grounds, solenoids and pumps. One last thought, is your setup welded to the frame of the car or did they mount it to the body? That can play a big role in sparking, the body isn’t that good of a ground compared to the frame.
So basically it’s 3 Solenoids per pump? Or does it go by the amount of batteries you have?
Not exactly, 1 solenoid per 2 batteries is the general rule. I run 3 solenoids with 4 batteries and 4 with 6 batteries. 8 and up I run a block solenoid type of setup or run the solenoids between the batteries so there isn’t so much load on them.
What is your opinion on the O Reilly superstart battery? 950 cca , seems like a decent price. Any feedback would be appreciated. Thank you!
Where to find that disconnect ??
Do you need two quick disconnects for the other bank of batteries? Where did you find your quick disconnects? Thanks for any info!
Jesus de la Isla no you don’t need two quick disconnects with 2 banks, say you are running 4 and 4, just connect the first negative of each bank and then ground one of them. You can get quick disconnects from any hydraulic shop or most of your local welding accessory shops have them. One like in the video is from a fork lift.
Make a video where to connect a battery charger for 2-4-6-8 batterys
How do you wire a 3 pump set up?
I'm gonna be doing my quick disconnect so do I loosen up the Allen wrench bolt then slide the 1 gauge in and tighten it up or do I solder it like battery cables ? Thanks for the videos I've been learning a lot.
Michael Mckay yes just slide the cable in then tighten it. Just in case you want to move your ground later you can put a longer or short cable. If you solder it your stuck with that cable.
Michael Mckay both is best. Solder it then clamp it down with the Allen bolt. Basically the tighter the connection the better.
Russell Harris Lowrider Hydraulics
Pump making a loud pitch sound could it be my solenoids?
Not likely. Check to make sure you’re not low on fluid. Solenoids don’t make a sound other than a click noise. Pumps make all the noise, more specifically the motor. If there is no fluid or it’s low on fluid the motor will spin faster because it has less resistance which make it higher pitch whining sound. Make sure the tank is full and see if that helps.
Is this the same for square block solenoids
UNWproducerFDS BEATS basically. Open one of those square block up, looks very similar.
Russell Harris Lowrider Hydraulics thanks for responding....will do. Appreciate that
Do one for charging the batterys bro
Would that mean, hypothetically..you would use that orange dump wire, for the black and brown pump lift wires?? Could you please make another video to explain it more clearly. I’m slow ha and thanks for the info you’re awesome for this 🙏👍🏽
No, dump means down, pump means up or lift. Dump wires do not connect to pump wires. If you need to know what wire goes to what in your switch box, I made another video that thoroughly explains how to figure that out. If you still need help, feel free to contact me through Facebook at “Lowrider Hydraulic Tips” I manage that page and you can send me pictures and videos of what you have and I’ll help you figure it out. This stuff can be complicated at times so don’t get discouraged.
I have a question is a low rider the same as a motion simulator
Hey so I have two pump an a 4 battery set up I had someone help me set it up the batteries it works ok but I think I’m only running on two batteries not for my connect seems to b pulling off two batteries
Do I hook positive to negative only or
Elias Pacheco yes positive to negative. Should be getting 48 volts to the pump when you hit the switch.
I charge my batteries brand new group 31s they hit good an all that but losing charge fast only two batteries seem to b draining while the other two stay full but it’s like it’s only pulling off those two batteries an other two have no play in the system is that possible or could it b me using wrong charger
Great video. I bought a car with a six battery, two pump setup, using this same switch box. Front and back works correctly on the switch box, however the left and right, along with the rear left and right are backwards. (When I hit the left or right raise, the opposite side of the car raises. When I hit the left or right dump, the car dumps the opposite side as shown on the switch). What is the best and easiest way to correct this issue? Thanks!!
Sounds like you need to swap the dumps from left to right and swap pump wires from left to right.
Russell Harris Lowrider Hydraulics, thanks for the quick reply. I swapped the four dumps and that seemed to put the switches in the correctly labeled spot. Being that it’s only a two pump, I still can’t raise my rear independently. I probably have the only 64 Impala out there that won’t do a three wheel. Doesn’t seem like the back right wants to dump far enough. I’ve followed your videos on how to three wheel and it just won’t do it. I’m thinking of adding a third pump, but don’t even know if that’ll do the trick.
With a 2 pump setup, you can’t lift each wheel individually, you can however dump each cylinder individually. With a two pump setup, you can only lift both front or both rear cylinders. Adding a third pump won’t necessarily fix your problem. Impalas need to with have a wish bone or Y Bar in the rear that will allow the car to twist, running the stock banana bar will restrict movement. Would also like to know how many batteries you are running. Generally you would need 8 batteries in order to stand on 3 with the setup you have.
Russell Harris Lowrider Hydraulics, the car does have a wish bone and is on six batteries. I did notice that driver side stroke runs through a 4” pipe that is welded to the floor, the passenger side does not have this sleeve. When I raise both rear and try to dump the right rear, this pipe (sleeve) is putting the left stroke into a major bind and only allows the right rear to go down about 1/3 of the full travel. I’m going to try to remove that pipe this weekend and see it allows the driver side stroke to move. The pipe is barely bigger than the stroke and it’s welded in crooked, compared to the stroke. Half ass looking work, to be honest. With the trunk open, looking at the strokes, the right side without the pipe will slightly move, as the car goes up and down. The driver side stroke with the pipe around it can’t hardly move at all. In what way would the addition of a third pump be beneficial? Thanks!
Yes remove the sleeve, that will help. 3rd pump would make it so the back can be lifted individually, so it makes it much easier to 3 wheel because there is no pressure on one of the cylinders. With that said, if there is not enough weight in the rear, you will still have trouble standing on 3.
So confused. I run a 2 pump 6 battery setup and only have 1 wire for each pump not 2.
You need to make other video with your connecting everything just like this video, but where everything is connected
Why do you need 3 solenoids back to back? I see this often and have always wondered. As 1 is capable of the same job?!?!
It’s to share the load. One solenoid would pop like a ballon with multiple batteries like that.
@@LOWRIDERHYDRAULICS…I appreciate the quick reply. But how does it “share” the load when the full power is going through each one still? I’m also very experienced with Club Car golf carts. Golf carts run 4 solenoids. Bc they are used as gears. To apply more power the more ya press the pedal. So multiples for something like that makes since. But when all 3 are ran in series, the full load goes through each and every solenoid. So I’m just not seeing a benefit of this.
I only have one solenoid per pump on my setup. But they are rated for the load. I’ve seen people double and triple up my whole life though. So I’m trying to get to the bottom of why they do this. I’m not being a dick or anything. I’m truly asking for education as to how they would share the load in this setup?
Keep in mind I am not an electrical engineer or anything but the way I understand it is you run multiple for a couple reason, one is to share the load and the other more important reason is each one is a “fail safe”. If you are just running one for example, if that solenoid gets hot and gets stuck open then you’ll have a fire pretty quick. For each additional solenoid the likely hood of 3 or more getting stuck open at the same time is less likely. The first solenoid in the group always tends to get the hottest first and most of the time it is the first to go out, but not always. When the voltage gets really high, we normally upgrade to a two bank solenoids setup that can support even more power by splitting the power to run through 2 sets of solenoids. I understand your logic, same power flows through them either way but from my experience, running 3 versus 2 you will have less problems with solenoids getting stuck open or going bad. The way it has been explained to me is it’s like sitting on a chair with 4 legs versus 3, it’s just more stable. Hope that helps
@@LOWRIDERHYDRAULICS first I absolutely appreciate this wisdom secondly, I researched this more last night myself. Sure as shit, it turns out when you run multiple solenoids in parallel they share the amp load. The same voltage indeed goes through all. But the amps are shared. I too am far from an electrical engineer, so this sounds ridiculous to me. I don’t see how it’s possible. With only one direct path for the current to flow through each one in parallel, I have no idea how this is possible. But again, this is what the electrical engineering books say.
So this info coupled with your practical experience is good cause for me to change mine. I have 48v solenoids but like you said, I don’t have a safety for if it should stick closed. I guess it’s a good thing I chased all this down.
Lastly, what part of TN are y’all in? I’m from Morristown. But live just south of Seattle now. So west coast scene with south East style. Currently rebuilding my original Sonoma all out with the late 90s/2000 style I grew up with. But using all modern parts and doing all the things I couldn’t afford as a kid. But thank you much again! I appreciate the education!
I’m in Clarksville TN.
👍🏻
how do i ground a wire
Don't know where to connect a battery charger for a battery 8 battery set up
Depending what charger you have you need to just unhook all the batteries and running all negative negative and positive to positive the to charger
Sick and help full