There is so much wrong with the Swiss parts restrictions. Not only Swatch, but Rolex ect. Mercedes tried the same thing in the 90s and lost in court on grounds that a market monopoly will not benefit customers. Same goes for watches or anything else… Thanks for highlighting this issue✌️All those original dials, hands and movements replaced over the years can make any collector cry😅😮💨 hope Cousins wins in the U.K. court
People knock movements the nh35 or the 8000 series from Miyota as bland or mundane but they are super popular and spares will be available for years to come.
Being a customer of Cousins for many years here in the UK I am very aware of the situation regarding obtaining parts, but the way you have explained it has really made it so much easier to understand, thank you.
Totally agree Kalle. It feels offensive to have a watch from the 1930’s to the 1970’s that is special to someone, but that we can no longer get parts from the original manufacturer directly or through third parties like Cousins. Worse is that the ‘new’ proprietary owners are not at all interested in repairing. Many even new watches are sold as heirlooms (personal experience) but that means nothing if there can be no repair after 20 years. I don’t think it helps that in Switzerland there are “any number of independent watchmakers who can find your part from their stock but aren’t online” as that doesn’t help anyone outside the country and is still a temporary solution. Is the problem mixed messages i.e. the vintage or new watch is either an heirloom to be cherished and passed on or an expensive throw away item. I know which I’d prefer!
Thank you, Kalle! This is the first time I've heard someone bring it up on UA-cam. I recall Oris (prior ownership) refusing to sell me a crown and tube. Builders NEED service shops. Then again, they don't want to compete with their own used products. "Of course it can be repaired. They just don't WANT to repair it."
Totally agree! Fascinating discussion! I try to maintain everything I own (houses, cars, bikes, appliances, watches, jewellery, garden and diy tools, etc, etc.). Long may I have the desire and skill and I can keep getting the parts!
Totally agree Kalle. I’m working on an Atmos clock right now, and having to scrounge second hand, over priced used parts off of flea bay in order to make it run. Jaeger LeCoultre has stopped selling parts to all but a few grandfathered in dealers, and I’m not going to pay their prices for repairs. It’s another monopoly like you said.
I actually wrote the BHI ( British Horological Institute) on this subject when Swatch announced this policy. It as was published but nothing happened, many just did not appreciate the implications. Many independent horologists did and so simply retired. I am a very keen amateur horologist and as a result get a steady flow of clocks and watches for repairs and servicing. Cousins challenged Swatch BUT it was an independent taking on a Goliath. It’s sad but it’s were we are and most of the general public do not worry about time because it is displayed on their smartphones anyway.
The time is not the point, since we're surrounded by time. There was a time not too long ago when kitchen oven, microwave oven, VCR etc all insisted on telling you time, even when they didn't know, and you go through the city, you encounter a bus station clock, train station clocks, etc, and the real luxury is in being able to turn off time and not care about it. And yet someone is making all these watches, so people care about these small devices. 1mil+/yr according to Kalle's extra conservative estimate for Rolex watches that cost thousands, that's massive; and then you can add Swatch group brands, GS, etc, them's in millions upon millions more, plus more from the periphery of the industry or emerging. You don't like acknowledging them on account of them being built very much down to a price but China is making mechanical watches accessible to hundreds of millions of people by lowering the barrier of entry. By all reason there have never been as many mechanical watches around - whether worn, or just stored, as today. They aren't even particularly great at telling time, not even the best ones. It's just not about time.
Another vote for Cousins UK. They're a fantastic shop and always go the extra mile. I'd picked up the Seiko Baby Snowflake from ebay and the seller had lost some of the pins and collars from the bracelet. Cousins got me the genuine parts within a few weeks. Nice to have industry players on the side of customers and repairers.
Hi Kali , You are our Hero, because you are saying what i have been saying to my trade customers ( jewellers here in UK ) . Please carry on doing the good work, you are our voice old watchmakers like my self ❤
Kalle, I am 100% on your side about this. Their arguments are many, but only monopolistically true. Then independents, like yourself, have the inverse arguments. We see it nowadays with all trades- we need more people working with their hands, and businesses need to make it EASIER for their stuff to be fixed, rather than harder. I hope both the EU and US put in a Right To Repair maw that includes watches. We need to MAKE ETA, and Richemont & the rest supply reputable houses with parts. Thanks! i enjoyed this one!
Sadly here in the United States, it’s become a throw away world. When I was a kid there were Television repair men, refrigerator and other appliance repairmen, clock and watch repairmen, Vacuum cleaner repairmen and other repairmen I’m forgetting I’m sure. Most towns had at least one repairmen for each of these items. But now if the Television breaks, you buy a new one. Same with everything else. That’s what I enjoy so much about watch and clock repair! You find something at an auction somewhere and bring it home and bring it back to life. The thrill of seeing it keeping accurate time just never gets old. I enjoyed your video, and all of the others! Thanks for doing them, it helps an incredible amount!
Great informative video!!! It's like being forced to take your car only to the dealership for repair. Also the reason I got into mechanical watches is knowing they can be repaired rather than replaced like quartz. I might start buying quartz knowing the movement will be replaced after 20 years rather than buying a mechanical which will be replaced after five years.
Thanks Kalle for posting this. It’s very informative. The jeweler story is familiar. My Heuer Carrera was sent to Tag and they refused to service it . They said no parts available. It needs a dial refinish as it was done poorly many years ago. The reason they don’t want to provide parts is they don’t have enough watchmakers to do repairs, so they simply swap movements and when you have a 1970’s Valjoux 7736… sorry you’re out of luck. like computers … they’ll say “they don’t support that product”.. very sad indeed. Thanks again for posting.
I know I'm quite late to comment, but I found out about companies swapping movements instead of repairing them when my Citizen dive watch had issues. A bunch of people in the forums had sent their watches in for repair, and when it was returned they opened it to find that the entire movement (including the original custom rotor) had been swapped instead. I decided to get into watch repair as a hobby to be able to fix my own watches so that I could ensure that it was actually repaired. I also, ignorantly, thought it would be more cost effective. 🙄 That has certainly not been the case. My vintage staking set and jacot tool cost about as much as the original watch. Now I'm looking to go to watchmaking school in the next few years to officially become a watchmaker.
Over 20 years ago I bought a Fortis Cosmonaut Chronograph Alarm. Fortis customized a Valjoux 7750, adding an alarm function (the F-2001). That's cool and all, but it's rare as hell. Mine is #116. They kept making alarm chronos for a while, but no longer do (and I'm guessing I just found out from your video why!). Last time I checked a service cost more than I paid for the watch, and that was a long time ago. It's one case where I really would rather send it to Fortis (because who else is every going to have seen one), but now I doubt even they would touch it. If they do, I doubt I can afford it.
Thank you for sharing your thoughts. I agree that the right of repair should not be monopolized by manufaturer, and the industry should bring up more watchmakers capable of serious repair.
Very informative Kalle... as a watchmaker myself......parts are the bread and butter of repair and yes cousins uk are great but I have found even they are having trouble getting parts....they have a lot of discontinued parts that are no longer available. eBay can be good for some new parts and sometimes you have to resort to buying a used movement just to get a part no longer in production. I do hope the watch companies wake up to this problem . I see this happening in the car industry also where they are making their cars so technically difficult to repair yourself needing specialist equipment and computers just to keep your car going. Very frustrating and not good for the owner whether it's a vintage watch, new watch, or a car you just bought......sad times.
Certainly one of the most informative videos for sure! I maneuvered the watch industry based on discussion in the video over the years simply to protect my piggie bank however most importantly my passion in watches...collection and servicing my own watches alike. Cheers Kalle you're the best!
Hello Kalle,you are 100% correct, i have a cocktail 30 diamond 14k white gold "Rolex" and i have a huge issue getting any sort of parts, usual question, are you a business?? No??, then its impossible to get anything. I was asked to ring somebody who runs a "school" for watch making....i asked him where he got his parts from, and he was very reluctant to say. He did however tell me to have a look at ebay, as ebay had a lot of very old and vintage watches.Its pretty disgusting really that big companies are so "greedy". I thank you for your true but candid report on this issue.....which wont be fixed in the near future.... but we can "watch" for it!!!😂😂😂Thankyou.🙏🙏
Nice dancing, I think you missed most of the eggshells. I believe the truth is actually worse than you conveyed, but that's a very thick subject. Thanks 🙏 Good Fortunes and Great Successes 🤝
Some time ago wanted to service my Tissot. Sent it to authorized service center. "Sorry we are not servicing the movement any more..." was the message. Thrown the watch away, bought Seiko instead. No more an European watch (and car) again! 😅
That's funny, because I'm not buying Seiko anymore. Artificially created "premium" lines for off the shelf crap like Presage and Prospect and all they deliver is bullshit. They used to be the best bang for the buck, but they have completely lost their way.
Kalle. As a 'Tuesday boy,' I listen, watch and learn with you. I gain information and inspiration from you. I began in December 20021, eventually taking advantage of Mark Lovick's course. I found your site 17 month later and have been an 'avid' ever since. Your training course has been well viewed, and also using Mark's and Alex Hamilton's, which I also watch, my skill are improving, as is my knowledge. I do feel privilege being part of the 'scene, but would never consider myself a WatchMaker. A hobbyist is what I am. What you are describing is unfortunately the way of the corporate world. You, we, are outside and don't count. It is nice to have someone of your ilk confirm our views. It is the insight and background you give that does help understanding. I hope you are not crucified because of it. Even at my skill level I have dealt with friends who have had 'Cannot be repaired' watches. A service and part replacement is usually what is needed. Their 'history is kept, as is their joy of ownership of that watch. Long may you reign. Regards Ross from Ardrossan
Well done Kalle an interesting, balanced view as always and of course incredibly informative. Although we all hate the impact of a certain company controlling supply of parts, it's good to have an understanding of the background. I'll await your next broadcast on the parts subject (genuine vs. generic) as I think the one concept fuels the other.
Hello Kalle First of all, I hope all is well with you. Now here is an unusual but very important topic for those who love watches.At a time when everyone is out there hawking issues about sustainability, this issue takes a backseat, but it certainly has important environmental implications. For me, as a person who dedicates myself to repairing the watches that I manage to buy as a way of passing time, it is becoming very difficult to acquire some pieces, and given that unfortunately.As it is a relatively affordable brand, I usually "play" with my Certina, but even these pieces are becoming rarer.Thanks for the thought A hug from Portugal
It’s a complicated situation. I think the industry is very fluid and by the time the landscape settles many of this new generation of watchmakers will be retired. I am brand new and hoping to make my way as a watchmaker one day.. I love these videos and appreciate the behind the scenes look. Your knowledge is invaluable
Great vid Kalle, i will never buy another Swatch group watch. My Seiko divers with a base GS movement does need to go to Seiko Japan via the US for servicing. Tudor and Rolex services in Canada, even Oysterquartz. I will not buy Omega again either. I will go to German brands for my next watch. Frederique Constant might be on my radar. Thank you, Chris
Thank you for the interesting and informative video on a difficult topic. I wholeheartedly support right to repair and agree that producers of watches have shot themselves in the foot. Not everyone is going to be able to afford that new watch when the old one "can't be serviced". Or if it's an heirloom that just can't be replaced, what then?
Excellent topic, thank you very much! I inherited an Omega watch, probably from the 60s a while ago, and so far, I haven't found anyone to even have a look at it (it cannot be wound). No way, I am sending it to Switzerland because to the repair people there, it will be an unknown watch, so why bother! There are excellent watch makers (watch repair people) all over the world, I only have to find one who will do it. By the way, the shop I talked to has a list of manufacturers they are "not allowed" to repair.
I have directly dealt with Omega and have had them repair Omegas from 50s and 60s without batting an eye. Unfortunately they raised their rates this year and a watch without complications will cost $700. They did not care that it was not running. They come back looking like new which is something that some people don't want. Dial service is a lot extra, $1000.
Thanks Kalle! Such videos are also helpful, these simple thoughts and building the industry. I also like to thought during my life and last time especially about marketing side of watches. Not so long ago client gave me an Oris with ETA movement which are only 7 years old. I've noticed, that crown wheel and winding pinion are worn, but if I compare it with our USSR Pobeda, which made in 50s, on soviet watches there is no worn!! That's the proof, that manufacturers in modern watches are trying only to sell more and more, if it's not new watches, it will be parts to an old ones. I've disappointed in that...
Great topic and well articulated. What would happen if car manufacturers were so narrow minded and monopolised the repair of classic cars. There wouldn’t be any classic cars running on the roads.
You are not wrong. I always look for the movement first. If it is an ETA I won't buy it. Years ago there was a computer company that locked you out of the bios and they went out of business. This type of greed will only lead consumers to other companies. You are right watch makers are in decline. Why would I pick a profession that is being strangled by Swatch. Swatch is shooting itself in the head. They will feel the public's wrath eventually. I will not buy anything from Apple they too adhere to a similar model of business. Apple also fires workers if they self report a problem with devices.
These luxury watch makers are treating their customers with utter disrespect. Treating them as suckers "sometimes rightfully so😅" by selling them century old technological perfected product, which parts that can now be cheaply mass produced on modern precision machinery, and selling them at inflated prices multiple times in the weight of gold.
I don't know if it is a joke but I believe it is a true story. A watchmaker told me he had a client with a watch not serviced for a long time. He serviced the watch oiled and adjusted it. He said it was not a problem the watch needed maintinance but he found a dead insect in the movment. When the client asked what the problem was, he said the machinist / operator died.
elke keer weer plak ik aan je lippen ( figuurlijk dan 🤣 ) ik heb maar 1 woord en dat is Bedankt! bedankt voor wat je met zoveel passie doet en overbrengt. na onze verbouwingen hoop ik eens een cursus te kunnen volgen. tot die tijd kijk ik elke keer uit naar een nieuwe video. dankjewel Kalle!
Many times I retrofitted parts including engines to cars never intended to use them. Ferrari Testarossas are stunning cars, my personal all time favorite oddly enough, but I've also bought parts for a customer's from a local aftermarket source. Ferrari has no issue with people fixing them. Watches are a particularly easy thing to swap movements, and that would be my go to if parts were refused to me. But that shouldn't be necessary with proper forethought about who will eagerly sell you components and avoid planned obsolescence. If the swiss companies want to be obnoxious jerks, that's okay. 10 years from now the Chinese are liable to have awesome anti magnetic high accuracy movements and cheap replacements.
30:38 sending a Grand Seiko to repair in Switzerland 😂 🇨🇭 looking at their faces when they received it 🤣 (postman : well ... the dot is different from the cross 🇯🇵🇨🇭 😆) 31:50 probably to India ... than Switzerland (cheaper to repair)
Could you do a video comparing the movements of manual wound watch, without complication between different brands! What makes an expensive Piaget Manual movement expensive compared to a lesser brand Manual movements. Thank you!
Very interesting topic. So many things today have become "disposable", either not repairable or too costly to have repaired. At the end you mentioned generic watch parts. This is also interesting. When does generic cross the line to be become counterfeit? I'm sure that if a piece is patented other manufacturers will be shut down by legal means. The watch manufacturers have discovered, as you said, that they can't keep up with repair demand and they don't care. "Out of warranty. Buy another one". In my own home I've repaired the dishwasher, microwave, washing machine and air exchange unit. Many of the components, like motors and pumps are made by makers other than the manufacter, but you have to take the part out to identify it. If you had to pay someone else to do it then it may not be worth the effort financially. Ethically, I'll keep on fixing things as long as I can. Including my watches! Thanks for another insightful video.
Luckily mechanical watches are an anachronistic business (ha) and there isn't much new about them. A patent only lasts 20 odd years. Unpatentable parts can be deemed counterfeit if they reproduce the branding or trade dress of the manufacturer, so you would be in trouble with case pieces, watch faces, crown, hands, case back, which are recognisably a given brand's style. Functional parts are exempt from such intellectual protections, either they have patent or you can just copy them. A bit pity that i haven't repaired the microwave when my last one gave up after 20 years. But i did repair the fridge, it has been acting up and finally completely lost cooling a after almost 25 years. The functional parts and the welding seem spectacularly high quality. i'm sure the cooling loop itself is going to last. I found a replacement thermostat, but i ended up not needing it, i just cleaned the contacts with sprays and put the old one back in and it's been running for almost 2 years now like day 1. There are a lot of electronics that with my knowledge of today, i can and do repair but couldn't just a decade ago, didn't even think i could. I could have saved so many things from being thrown away. But now i habitually repair sat receivers, sometimes PC mainboards, classic computers and consoles, audio gear and electronic music instruments, easy smartphone/tablet repairs like changing USB socket or display or battery replacement. Recently my modern laptop's mainboard, cleared an MLCC short there. One of the craziest things i did was replacement of backlight in an old LCD from CCFL to LED. It wasn't perfect but i learned for next time, and there's some things i accomplished very well. I deleted a significant part of original PSU for safety, re-engineering parts of it, it involved a lot of effort to understand in detail the function. But when i closed it up, i left the tiniest speck of dust in between glass layers, and deemed it better to not do the risky and lengthy procedure to remove it, after all it doesn't really interfere with normal use. The person for whom i did the repair kept trying to wipe it off though, forgetting that it's inside, and 4 years after repair, broke the LCD glass in that very spot, ruining the entire panel that took so much care to preserve.
I was realy thinking to start this as a hobby. But not only this now, there are more how are telling the same. The most difficult thing about this is PARTS. I will start anyway with old stuff, but after some time i ll like to fix a 10-20 year old rolex, or older, for example. What to do than?
😮 aqui en México esta peor el suministro de repuestos, afortunadamente yo compro en cousins lo que puedo, pero va a llegar el dia que no vamos a poder reparar relojes por falta de piezas😢😢
Hi Kalle, Just wondered what your thoughts are on Radium dials and the health implications. I dont know of any watchmakers that have died because they have worked on Radium dials. I believe that most of them live to a ripe old age. In addition, in our modern age, exposure to radioactive substances in one form or another, seems to be inevitable. I really enjoy the relaxed and practical way you present your channel. Kind Regards.
LETS FUCKING GO!!!!!! I been repairing almost every brand and sourcing parts inspite of this, now that it’s happenining, I can’t tell you how excited I am!!!!! Rolex parts have always been easy to get for me, but getting AP and Patek parts has been VERY expensive and VERY time consuming. Not to mention the added bonus of having the extra consumer confidence when they know you can source parts. Even if I tell them I can source and repair faulty parts many just won’t work with me. I fixed a PP 5712 with almost the entire calendar system broken due to the client using the pushers around the time the date would change. Repair cost 3500, parts was around 2800. Patek would have quoted 7k++
which movement manufacturers would be the most right to repair friendly? Eta obviously not, sellita? seiko? seagull? this would make an excellent followup to this video
Hi, excellent information on the watch manufacturer vs aftermarket repair. Can you recommend a USA watchmaker to repair my PATEK, era 1925 - 1930? I’m one of the few people which received a written repair quote from PATEK in Geneve. Besides the very expensive quote, PATEK required 3 years minimum to complete the repair. Thank you, Bryan
I have used Montoya Watch Service in Bellflower CA. He has successfully repaired a couple of hundred year olds for me. turn around was 4 to 8 weeks depending on whether he had to make a part.
Kalle maybe another interesting story I have heard from one watchmaker here in our Region (Europe), he told me one of the reasons why specific used watch part making machines are impossible to find and buy is because some years ago Swatch was simply looking around and buying everything they found for any price, just so that it make it harder for any competition to grow (since Swatch also own a lot of "luxury" brands..), they simply priced out the "small watchmakers" and bought out everything, not because they needed it, just to take if off the market. so that unless you run a quarter billion euros enterprise you can never afford to buy and run those brand new Haas machines which costs 250-200K just the machine without tooling or operator.. and the "older" used stuff that is still very sufficient is nowhere to be found. talk about the "right to create".. not only to "repair" ;-)
Could you talk about your watchmaker career and how is so that you become an independent entrepreneur ? I love watches and I would lie to learn the profession. How many years it take to become a prestigious man as you are ?
Kale- you would love what Louis Rossiman has to say on the subject. Same issue you describe with Apple, with John Deere, etc. right to repair is critically important.
Exactly the same issue hit the car industry about 20 years ago. The first thing to go was stock of parts in garages. Everything had to be ordered in to reduce the capital tied up in stock Then, we used to be able to speak to the workshop staff and get advice to help DIY solutions. Now, no parts stock and not allowed to speak to staff. If you want to find out anything you have to book the vehicle in for service and pay the garage instead of DIY! 😠 Now the same is happening in the watch repair industry, you can't buy parts if your not a franchised repairer. The rebellion against globalisation is going to stop China making and selling the aftermarket and clone parts. The watch industry is going to commit suicide if they prevent independent repairers to operate in the market. Buyers will buy bracelets instead of watches, as time and date is in our pockets on our phones! 😕
I worked for a years in the cell phone repair business, and I see so many similarity to this situation. I see now why so many microbrand watches are running with NH Seiko movements instead of ETA.
Brilliant!! This is why i’m learning watch repair. Auto mechanic 40 years, only way do it properly is do it yourself!! Great work Kalle👍🏻🇦🇺
There is so much wrong with the Swiss parts restrictions. Not only Swatch, but Rolex ect. Mercedes tried the same thing in the 90s and lost in court on grounds that a market monopoly will not benefit customers. Same goes for watches or anything else… Thanks for highlighting this issue✌️All those original dials, hands and movements replaced over the years can make any collector cry😅😮💨 hope Cousins wins in the U.K. court
People knock movements the nh35 or the 8000 series from Miyota as bland or mundane but they are super popular and spares will be available for years to come.
Being a customer of Cousins for many years here in the UK I am very aware of the situation regarding obtaining parts, but the way you have explained it has really made it so much easier to understand, thank you.
Kalle you are a great storry teller, kids must love it to
Totally agree Kalle. It feels offensive to have a watch from the 1930’s to the 1970’s that is special to someone, but that we can no longer get parts from the original manufacturer directly or through third parties like Cousins. Worse is that the ‘new’ proprietary owners are not at all interested in repairing. Many even new watches are sold as heirlooms (personal experience) but that means nothing if there can be no repair after 20 years. I don’t think it helps that in Switzerland there are “any number of independent watchmakers who can find your part from their stock but aren’t online” as that doesn’t help anyone outside the country and is still a temporary solution. Is the problem mixed messages i.e. the vintage or new watch is either an heirloom to be cherished and passed on or an expensive throw away item. I know which I’d prefer!
@user-wv1pj6wh4h you sound upset
Thank you, Kalle! This is the first time I've heard someone bring it up on UA-cam. I recall Oris (prior ownership) refusing to sell me a crown and tube. Builders NEED service shops. Then again, they don't want to compete with their own used products. "Of course it can be repaired. They just don't WANT to repair it."
Totally agree! Fascinating discussion! I try to maintain everything I own (houses, cars, bikes, appliances, watches, jewellery, garden and diy tools, etc, etc.). Long may I have the desire and skill and I can keep getting the parts!
Totally agree Kalle. I’m working on an Atmos clock right now, and having to scrounge second hand, over priced used parts off of flea bay in order to make it run. Jaeger LeCoultre has stopped selling parts to all but a few grandfathered in dealers, and I’m not going to pay their prices for repairs. It’s another monopoly like you said.
Go to ‘Time Savers’ in America I think you might have some luck, and they ship overseas as I have used them for many years and I’m in the UK
I agree 100 % with you !! Cover up poor quality or design. Also the monopoly and greed!! They did shout herself in the foot!!
I actually wrote the BHI ( British Horological Institute) on this subject when Swatch announced this policy. It as was published but nothing happened, many just did not appreciate the implications. Many independent horologists did and so simply retired. I am a very keen amateur horologist and as a result get a steady flow of clocks and watches for repairs and servicing. Cousins challenged Swatch BUT it was an independent taking on a Goliath. It’s sad but it’s were we are and most of the general public do not worry about time because it is displayed on their smartphones anyway.
The time is not the point, since we're surrounded by time. There was a time not too long ago when kitchen oven, microwave oven, VCR etc all insisted on telling you time, even when they didn't know, and you go through the city, you encounter a bus station clock, train station clocks, etc, and the real luxury is in being able to turn off time and not care about it.
And yet someone is making all these watches, so people care about these small devices. 1mil+/yr according to Kalle's extra conservative estimate for Rolex watches that cost thousands, that's massive; and then you can add Swatch group brands, GS, etc, them's in millions upon millions more, plus more from the periphery of the industry or emerging. You don't like acknowledging them on account of them being built very much down to a price but China is making mechanical watches accessible to hundreds of millions of people by lowering the barrier of entry. By all reason there have never been as many mechanical watches around - whether worn, or just stored, as today. They aren't even particularly great at telling time, not even the best ones. It's just not about time.
I guess it's good that the people that wear your watches have Smart phones!@clock b
please display my post!
Nicely done Kalle - A brave and very informative video. Your examples and logic make perfect sense. Monopolies at the expense of the consumer!
Another vote for Cousins UK. They're a fantastic shop and always go the extra mile. I'd picked up the Seiko Baby Snowflake from ebay and the seller had lost some of the pins and collars from the bracelet. Cousins got me the genuine parts within a few weeks. Nice to have industry players on the side of customers and repairers.
I'm in the US and somehow they are able to deliver my orders in 36 hours. They are faster than Amazon these days.
Not living in the US but in Germany and even here, I get parts within 3 days. So happy I found that shop.
This was a nice post. Thanks I enjoy your honest look at what all watchmakers have to deal with. And what watch owners are up against
Hi Kali ,
You are our Hero, because you are saying what i have been saying to my trade customers ( jewellers here in UK ) .
Please carry on doing the good work, you are our voice old watchmakers like my self ❤
Kalle, I am 100% on your side about this. Their arguments are many, but only monopolistically true. Then independents, like yourself, have the inverse arguments. We see it nowadays with all trades- we need more people working with their hands, and businesses need to make it EASIER for their stuff to be fixed, rather than harder. I hope both the EU and US put in a Right To Repair maw that includes watches. We need to MAKE ETA, and Richemont & the rest supply reputable houses with parts. Thanks! i enjoyed this one!
Sadly here in the United States, it’s become a throw away world. When I was a kid there were Television repair men, refrigerator and other appliance repairmen, clock and watch repairmen, Vacuum cleaner repairmen and other repairmen I’m forgetting I’m sure. Most towns had at least one repairmen for each of these items. But now if the Television breaks, you buy a new one. Same with everything else. That’s what I enjoy so much about watch and clock repair! You find something at an auction somewhere and bring it home and bring it back to life. The thrill of seeing it keeping accurate time just never gets old. I enjoyed your video, and all of the others! Thanks for doing them, it helps an incredible amount!
Great informative video!!! It's like being forced to take your car only to the dealership for repair. Also the reason I got into mechanical watches is knowing they can be repaired rather than replaced like quartz. I might start buying quartz knowing the movement will be replaced after 20 years rather than buying a mechanical which will be replaced after five years.
Thanks Kalle for posting this. It’s very informative. The jeweler story is familiar. My Heuer Carrera was sent to Tag and they refused to service it . They said no parts available. It needs a dial refinish as it was done poorly many years ago. The reason they don’t want to provide parts is they don’t have enough watchmakers to do repairs, so they simply swap movements and when you have a 1970’s Valjoux 7736… sorry you’re out of luck. like computers … they’ll say “they don’t support that product”.. very sad indeed. Thanks again for posting.
I know I'm quite late to comment, but I found out about companies swapping movements instead of repairing them when my Citizen dive watch had issues. A bunch of people in the forums had sent their watches in for repair, and when it was returned they opened it to find that the entire movement (including the original custom rotor) had been swapped instead.
I decided to get into watch repair as a hobby to be able to fix my own watches so that I could ensure that it was actually repaired. I also, ignorantly, thought it would be more cost effective. 🙄 That has certainly not been the case. My vintage staking set and jacot tool cost about as much as the original watch.
Now I'm looking to go to watchmaking school in the next few years to officially become a watchmaker.
Interesting and valuable video.
Over 20 years ago I bought a Fortis Cosmonaut Chronograph Alarm. Fortis customized a Valjoux 7750, adding an alarm function (the F-2001). That's cool and all, but it's rare as hell. Mine is #116. They kept making alarm chronos for a while, but no longer do (and I'm guessing I just found out from your video why!).
Last time I checked a service cost more than I paid for the watch, and that was a long time ago. It's one case where I really would rather send it to Fortis (because who else is every going to have seen one), but now I doubt even they would touch it. If they do, I doubt I can afford it.
Thank you for sharing your thoughts.
I agree that the right of repair should not be monopolized by manufaturer, and the industry should bring up more watchmakers capable of serious repair.
Very informative Kalle... as a watchmaker myself......parts are the bread and butter of repair and yes cousins uk are great but I have found even they are having trouble getting parts....they have a lot of discontinued parts that are no longer available. eBay can be good for some new parts and sometimes you have to resort to buying a used movement just to get a part no longer in production. I do hope the watch companies wake up to this problem . I see this happening in the car industry also where they are making their cars so technically difficult to repair yourself needing specialist equipment and computers just to keep your car going. Very frustrating and not good for the owner whether it's a vintage watch, new watch, or a car you just bought......sad times.
Thank You Sir for sharing your expertise with us! So many consumers do not understand what happens when they send a watch in to be repaired and why!
Certainly one of the most informative videos for sure! I maneuvered the watch industry based on discussion in the video over the years simply to protect my piggie bank however most importantly my passion in watches...collection and servicing my own watches alike. Cheers Kalle you're the best!
Great video, thanks 🙂
I got your point and you are totally right! 🕐⚙️🍸
Great video Kalle, with some very interesting information, dare I say about the elephant in the room. Have to love the bean counters from Swatch????
Really appreciate you talking about this. Much love from Germany
Great video and honest view of the craftsmanship.
I love these discussions
Hello Kalle,you are 100% correct, i have a cocktail 30 diamond 14k white gold "Rolex" and i have a huge issue getting any sort of parts, usual question, are you a business?? No??, then its impossible to get anything. I was asked to ring somebody who runs a "school" for watch making....i asked him where he got his parts from, and he was very reluctant to say. He did however tell me to have a look at ebay, as ebay had a lot of very old and vintage watches.Its pretty disgusting really that big companies are so "greedy". I thank you for your true but candid report on this issue.....which wont be fixed in the near future.... but we can "watch" for it!!!😂😂😂Thankyou.🙏🙏
Thanks!
Thank you so much Tom! 🙏🍀
Very nice expose of the subject!
Nice dancing, I think you missed most of the eggshells. I believe the truth is actually worse than you conveyed, but that's a very thick subject. Thanks 🙏 Good Fortunes and Great Successes 🤝
Totally right Kalle! You are too nice for swatchies, I call them the schwatchmafia!!
Hi. I prefer the Swiss movement probably because of the hype. But... Miyota and Seiko movements are in my opinion much more reliable
Well said if awkwardly phrased let's just call it what it was greedy men wanting more money screwed the customer over
Some time ago wanted to service my Tissot. Sent it to authorized service center. "Sorry we are not servicing the movement any more..." was the message. Thrown the watch away, bought Seiko instead. No more an European watch (and car) again! 😅
That's funny, because I'm not buying Seiko anymore. Artificially created "premium" lines for off the shelf crap like Presage and Prospect and all they deliver is bullshit. They used to be the best bang for the buck, but they have completely lost their way.
Why didn’t you bring it to someone else? How old was the model?
Japan movements as well as vehicles are super reliable an cheaper to mantAin. Having a swiss watch is a theme of personal like.
Kalle. As a 'Tuesday boy,' I listen, watch and learn with you. I gain information and inspiration from you. I began in December 20021, eventually taking advantage of Mark Lovick's course. I found your site 17 month later and have been an 'avid' ever since. Your training course has been well viewed, and also using Mark's and Alex Hamilton's, which I also watch, my skill are improving, as is my knowledge. I do feel privilege being part of the 'scene, but would never consider myself a WatchMaker. A hobbyist is what I am.
What you are describing is unfortunately the way of the corporate world. You, we, are outside and don't count. It is nice to have someone of your ilk confirm our views. It is the insight and background you give that does help understanding. I hope you are not crucified because of it. Even at my skill level I have dealt with friends who have had 'Cannot be repaired' watches. A service and part replacement is usually what is needed. Their 'history is kept, as is their joy of ownership of that watch.
Long may you reign.
Regards
Ross from Ardrossan
Ardrossan Alberta?
Fantastic discussion. Thanks so much for the information.
Thank you for this video. It reinforces my liking of Leonidas watches :).
Kalle,
All your comments are soooo! true. 😊
Thank you for this video, very interesting topic. Take care.
Good Evening Kalle,
thank You for this honest INSIDE views !
Gier frißt Hirn 😂
LG Harald
Well done Kalle an interesting, balanced view as always and of course incredibly informative. Although we all hate the impact of a certain company controlling supply of parts, it's good to have an understanding of the background. I'll await your next broadcast on the parts subject (genuine vs. generic) as I think the one concept fuels the other.
Hello Kalle
First of all, I hope all is well with you. Now here is an unusual but very important topic for those who love watches.At a time when everyone is out there hawking issues about sustainability, this issue takes a backseat, but it certainly has important environmental implications.
For me, as a person who dedicates myself to repairing the watches that I manage to buy as a way of passing time, it is becoming very difficult to acquire some pieces, and given that unfortunately.As it is a relatively affordable brand, I usually "play" with my Certina, but even these pieces are becoming rarer.Thanks for the thought A hug from Portugal
It’s a complicated situation. I think the industry is very fluid and by the time the landscape settles many of this new generation of watchmakers will be retired. I am brand new and hoping to make my way as a watchmaker one day.. I love these videos and appreciate the behind the scenes look. Your knowledge is invaluable
Nobody oils my pallet stones but me and my wife! With that said it makes perfect sense why Rolex bought Bucherer. Thanks for the info.
Thank you!
Great vid Kalle, i will never buy another Swatch group watch. My Seiko divers with a base GS movement does need to go to Seiko Japan via the US for servicing. Tudor and Rolex services in Canada, even Oysterquartz. I will not buy Omega again either. I will go to German brands for my next watch. Frederique Constant might be on my radar.
Thank you,
Chris
Super important content. Thanks Kalle!
Thank you for the interesting and informative video on a difficult topic. I wholeheartedly support right to repair and agree that producers of watches have shot themselves in the foot. Not everyone is going to be able to afford that new watch when the old one "can't be serviced". Or if it's an heirloom that just can't be replaced, what then?
Great video, and a very important issue. Thank you👍
Greatly put! And choosing the right words makes it clear! The love for money is very strong and can set things off balance!
Great topic, more light is needed on this to have a better future, thank you.
Thank you Kalle! Always love to hear your thoughts on the industry and watchmaking. Keep up the good work!
Some excellent advice and insight into the industry Kalle 😁👍 thanks and hope you had an awesome birthday 🎉🎉🎉🎉
just had a tag heuer carrera chronograph repaired and i was required to send it to lvmh
Excellent topic, thank you very much! I inherited an Omega watch, probably from the 60s a while ago, and so far, I haven't found anyone to even have a look at it (it cannot be wound). No way, I am sending it to Switzerland because to the repair people there, it will be an unknown watch, so why bother! There are excellent watch makers (watch repair people) all over the world, I only have to find one who will do it. By the way, the shop I talked to has a list of manufacturers they are "not allowed" to repair.
Unknown watch, an Omega from the 60s? Doesn't sound likely. But do get some feedback from someone else than me, i'm not knowledgeable enough.
I have directly dealt with Omega and have had them repair Omegas from 50s and 60s without batting an eye. Unfortunately they raised their rates this year and a watch without complications will cost $700. They did not care that it was not running. They come back looking like new which is something that some people don't want. Dial service is a lot extra, $1000.
Thanks Kalle!
Such videos are also helpful, these simple thoughts and building the industry. I also like to thought during my life and last time especially about marketing side of watches. Not so long ago client gave me an Oris with ETA movement which are only 7 years old. I've noticed, that crown wheel and winding pinion are worn, but if I compare it with our USSR Pobeda, which made in 50s, on soviet watches there is no worn!!
That's the proof, that manufacturers in modern watches are trying only to sell more and more, if it's not new watches, it will be parts to an old ones. I've disappointed in that...
Thank You for touching this subject! One of the best Thursday posts I've watched.
I bought repaired and sold watches up to the 90's ! Parts availability put the small individual watchmakers out of business!
Great topic and well articulated. What would happen if car manufacturers were so narrow minded and monopolised the repair of classic cars. There wouldn’t be any classic cars running on the roads.
You are not wrong. I always look for the movement first. If it is an ETA I won't buy it. Years ago there was a computer company that locked you out of the bios and they went out of business. This type of greed will only lead consumers to other companies. You are right watch makers are in decline. Why would I pick a profession that is being strangled by Swatch. Swatch is shooting itself in the head. They will feel the public's wrath eventually. I will not buy anything from Apple they too adhere to a similar model of business. Apple also fires workers if they self report a problem with devices.
These luxury watch makers are treating their customers with utter disrespect. Treating them as suckers "sometimes rightfully so😅" by selling them century old technological perfected product, which parts that can now be cheaply mass produced on modern precision machinery, and selling them at inflated prices multiple times in the weight of gold.
I don't know if it is a joke but I believe it is a true story.
A watchmaker told me he had a client with a watch not serviced for a long time. He serviced the watch oiled and adjusted it. He said it was not a problem the watch needed maintinance but he found a dead insect in the movment.
When the client asked what the problem was, he said the machinist / operator died.
I love how he does an impersonation of 'the crazy frog' when he makes the engine sound.
Kall, rusty screws and bolts need working back and forth, then the lube oil works its way down the threads, e x bus engineers trick!
Love your channel, please don’t😮 get cancelled by poking the bear.
Fantastisch🙏
Perfect view!
Fascinating insight, thank you 👍
For me to service three watches a day, the stars have to align perfectly and I need all parts in stock.
elke keer weer plak ik aan je lippen ( figuurlijk dan 🤣 ) ik heb maar 1 woord en dat is Bedankt! bedankt voor wat je met zoveel passie doet en overbrengt. na onze verbouwingen hoop ik eens een cursus te kunnen volgen. tot die tijd kijk ik elke keer uit naar een nieuwe video. dankjewel Kalle!
Many times I retrofitted parts including engines to cars never intended to use them. Ferrari Testarossas are stunning cars, my personal all time favorite oddly enough, but I've also bought parts for a customer's from a local aftermarket source. Ferrari has no issue with people fixing them.
Watches are a particularly easy thing to swap movements, and that would be my go to if parts were refused to me. But that shouldn't be necessary with proper forethought about who will eagerly sell you components and avoid planned obsolescence. If the swiss companies want to be obnoxious jerks, that's okay. 10 years from now the Chinese are liable to have awesome anti magnetic high accuracy movements and cheap replacements.
30:38 sending a Grand Seiko to repair in Switzerland 😂
🇨🇭 looking at their faces when they received it 🤣
(postman : well ... the dot is different from the cross 🇯🇵🇨🇭 😆)
31:50 probably to India ... than Switzerland (cheaper to repair)
Could you do a video comparing the movements of manual wound watch, without complication between different brands! What makes an expensive Piaget Manual movement expensive compared to a lesser brand Manual movements. Thank you!
Very interesting topic. So many things today have become "disposable", either not repairable or too costly to have repaired.
At the end you mentioned generic watch parts. This is also interesting. When does generic cross the line to be become counterfeit? I'm sure that if a piece is patented other manufacturers will be shut down by legal means. The watch manufacturers have discovered, as you said, that they can't keep up with repair demand and they don't care. "Out of warranty. Buy another one".
In my own home I've repaired the dishwasher, microwave, washing machine and air exchange unit. Many of the components, like motors and pumps are made by makers other than the manufacter, but you have to take the part out to identify it. If you had to pay someone else to do it then it may not be worth the effort financially. Ethically, I'll keep on fixing things as long as I can. Including my watches!
Thanks for another insightful video.
Luckily mechanical watches are an anachronistic business (ha) and there isn't much new about them. A patent only lasts 20 odd years. Unpatentable parts can be deemed counterfeit if they reproduce the branding or trade dress of the manufacturer, so you would be in trouble with case pieces, watch faces, crown, hands, case back, which are recognisably a given brand's style. Functional parts are exempt from such intellectual protections, either they have patent or you can just copy them.
A bit pity that i haven't repaired the microwave when my last one gave up after 20 years. But i did repair the fridge, it has been acting up and finally completely lost cooling a after almost 25 years. The functional parts and the welding seem spectacularly high quality. i'm sure the cooling loop itself is going to last. I found a replacement thermostat, but i ended up not needing it, i just cleaned the contacts with sprays and put the old one back in and it's been running for almost 2 years now like day 1. There are a lot of electronics that with my knowledge of today, i can and do repair but couldn't just a decade ago, didn't even think i could. I could have saved so many things from being thrown away. But now i habitually repair sat receivers, sometimes PC mainboards, classic computers and consoles, audio gear and electronic music instruments, easy smartphone/tablet repairs like changing USB socket or display or battery replacement. Recently my modern laptop's mainboard, cleared an MLCC short there.
One of the craziest things i did was replacement of backlight in an old LCD from CCFL to LED. It wasn't perfect but i learned for next time, and there's some things i accomplished very well. I deleted a significant part of original PSU for safety, re-engineering parts of it, it involved a lot of effort to understand in detail the function. But when i closed it up, i left the tiniest speck of dust in between glass layers, and deemed it better to not do the risky and lengthy procedure to remove it, after all it doesn't really interfere with normal use. The person for whom i did the repair kept trying to wipe it off though, forgetting that it's inside, and 4 years after repair, broke the LCD glass in that very spot, ruining the entire panel that took so much care to preserve.
Great presentation.
Could you tell us about st 2130 movement, the chinese version of 2824 eta, maybe, an alternative.
Thanks . 1:55
I was realy thinking to start this as a hobby. But not only this now, there are more how are telling the same. The most difficult thing about this is PARTS. I will start anyway with old stuff, but after some time i ll like to fix a 10-20 year old rolex, or older, for example. What to do than?
😮 aqui en México esta peor el suministro de repuestos, afortunadamente yo compro en cousins lo que puedo, pero va a llegar el dia que no vamos a poder reparar relojes por falta de piezas😢😢
Great !
Caro collega, anche in Italia la pensiamo esattamente come lei. 😊👍
Very interesting.
Hi Kalle,
Just wondered what your thoughts are on Radium dials and the health implications. I dont know of any watchmakers that have died because they have worked on Radium dials. I believe that most of them live to a ripe old age. In addition, in our modern age, exposure to radioactive substances in one form or another, seems to be inevitable. I really enjoy the relaxed and practical way you present your channel. Kind Regards.
LETS FUCKING GO!!!!!!
I been repairing almost every brand and sourcing parts inspite of this, now that it’s happenining, I can’t tell you how excited I am!!!!!
Rolex parts have always been easy to get for me, but getting AP and Patek parts has been VERY expensive and VERY time consuming.
Not to mention the added bonus of having the extra consumer confidence when they know you can source parts.
Even if I tell them I can source and repair faulty parts many just won’t work with me. I fixed a PP 5712 with almost the entire calendar system broken due to the client using the pushers around the time the date would change. Repair cost 3500, parts was around 2800. Patek would have quoted 7k++
which movement manufacturers would be the most right to repair friendly? Eta obviously not, sellita? seiko? seagull? this would make an excellent followup to this video
Hyjek's father made beautiful watches.
Hi, excellent information on the watch manufacturer vs aftermarket repair. Can you recommend a USA watchmaker to repair my PATEK, era 1925 - 1930?
I’m one of the few people which received a written repair quote from PATEK in Geneve.
Besides the very expensive quote, PATEK required 3 years minimum to complete the repair.
Thank you, Bryan
I have used Montoya Watch Service in Bellflower CA. He has successfully repaired a couple of hundred year olds for me. turn around was 4 to 8 weeks depending on whether he had to make a part.
Perfect!
Kalle maybe another interesting story I have heard from one watchmaker here in our Region (Europe), he told me one of the reasons why specific used watch part making machines are impossible to find and buy is because some years ago Swatch was simply looking around and buying everything they found for any price, just so that it make it harder for any competition to grow (since Swatch also own a lot of "luxury" brands..), they simply priced out the "small watchmakers" and bought out everything, not because they needed it, just to take if off the market. so that unless you run a quarter billion euros enterprise you can never afford to buy and run those brand new Haas machines which costs 250-200K just the machine without tooling or operator.. and the "older" used stuff that is still very sufficient is nowhere to be found. talk about the "right to create".. not only to "repair" ;-)
Could you talk about your watchmaker career and how is so that you become an independent entrepreneur ? I love watches and I would lie to learn the profession. How many years it take to become a prestigious man as you are ?
Kale- you would love what Louis Rossiman has to say on the subject. Same issue you describe with Apple, with John Deere, etc. right to repair is critically important.
So hang on, if I buy non swatch brand watch with ETA movement. Where does the company expect that I service it in?
Exactly the same issue hit the car industry about 20 years ago. The first thing to go was stock of parts in garages. Everything had to be ordered in to reduce the capital tied up in stock Then, we used to be able to speak to the workshop staff and get advice to help DIY solutions. Now, no parts stock and not allowed to speak to staff. If you want to find out anything you have to book the vehicle in for service and pay the garage instead of DIY! 😠 Now the same is happening in the watch repair industry, you can't buy parts if your not a franchised repairer. The rebellion against globalisation is going to stop China making and selling the aftermarket and clone parts. The watch industry is going to commit suicide if they prevent independent repairers to operate in the market. Buyers will buy bracelets instead of watches, as time and date is in our pockets on our phones! 😕
I worked for a years in the cell phone repair business, and I see so many similarity to this situation. I see now why so many microbrand watches are running with NH Seiko movements instead of ETA.
Man- would I love to sit down with you and a bottle of Jenever to discuss the fuckery in the industry. All the best to you, sir.