WATCHPARTS - how to find them and what to look for!
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- Опубліковано 4 лип 2024
- Watchparts, hard to find, but here is a great startingpoint.
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Here's a PDF of Dictionnaire Technologique: www.welwynwatches.co.uk/uploa...
Very exiting for us to do, no editing just live watchmaking. Anything can go wrong at any time!
Tutorial on watchmaking by watchmaker Kalle Slaap from Chronoglide Vintage Watch repair specialists near Amsterdam.
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Here's a PDF of Dictionnaire Technologique: www.welwynwatches.co.uk/uploads/9/1/4/3/9143536/dictionary_ebauches_sa.pdf
Thank you so much Chris!
Wow, ChrisC! You're a gem!
Thank you for posting this,very useful
I'm just a 20 year hobbiest. Been finding watches in estate sales, pawn shops, thrift markets, watch club meets. When I find a watch and repair it, I order on Ebay for parts, 1 of that part. I might never see a watch again that need the exact same part. I also have bulk winding stems I ordered on Ebay, catagorized by lenghth and stored like you have but with silica packets to absorb humidity. When I replace watch stems, on almost every watch I do, I hunt through the similar legnths for the match. It takes time but it is a hobby 1 watch at a time and a few days to complete a rebuild. I nearly always replace crystals so standard size replacements on hand. Odd shape crystals ordered for that watch takes 3 or 4 weeks to get it. It's not like I'm a busness that needs to turn it around in a day. When I get a good watch, repaired it, wear it a few times then sell it on to make room for new finds. I really enjoy the hunt for the next bargain poking around old houses in estate sales, meeting people at watch club meets, traveling on holidays seeing a pawn shop I have never been to can find great watches in need of repair at 10 cents on the dollar price. Worth buying old watches and repair them. I totally agree with you all watch parts should be made available. I watched a video on a Rolex being repaired and Rolex refused to service the broken watch. It was repaired using donar parts from a scrap watch. Same part needed but the guy could not source the part from a dealer.
It is wonderful to see an _actual expert_ talk about their subject. This video is brilliant, the gentleman is knowledgeable, passionate, and articulate (in what is at least a second language for him), and he is able to explain things in a simple, yet not condescending, way. Bravo, sir!
I have decided to take up watchmaking so here is one more new guy taking it up
Excellent Joe! Not an easy hobby but soooo satisfying.
Very interesting. A few years ago I had a bad experience with my Omega Speedmaster. The second hand had fallen off and I my jewllery store said it had to be send to to the Swatch Group in Belgium. It took them 3 weeks and then they let me know the watch needed a complete overhaul and a new crystal. They wanted me to pay 475 euros upfront. Mind You I had just bought this watch in the USA after it had a complete service. I had them sent it back to me and had it repaired at a local watchmakerfo 65 euros. It is just all about the money with these big watch companys and less about good customer service.
It's good to see someone discuss part organization a bit. One of the first hurdles I had to figure out when I started out as a watchmaker choosing to specialize in Soviet movements was storage of parts. Since the Soviet system had the different factories competing against each other, but also required to stick to assigned standardization, you can have two watch movements, both labeled caliber 2609, but from different factories and are entirely different with no parts compatibility. I ended up with different parts trays that are labeled by Factory, and then Caliber. If I get a new caliber, I just add another set of labels to empty bins until it's full and I need another whole tray. Anyways, this is pointless and I'm rambling, but it's good to see someone actually discuss parts storage at all.
ETA group policy tends to convince you that changing the movement is cheaper than a full disassembly, wich make sense when you consider time from the watchmaker.
So I think that's the way they'll handle that.
Another great topic for discussion, state of aftermarket in watchmaking. Now I know what in going into. Would you explain how do you produce the parts in house? The tolerances are hugely small, nowadays with CNC machining but in the last 2 centuries how were they made?
Love your energy and dedication to the Art! Congratulations and keep us learning!
Well i bought a retiring watchmakers shop, tools parts and watches so im in the progress of sorting the parts in a way so i Can find them and everyday im finding new parts in boxes and shelfs of watch crystals in all shapes and forms for pocketwatches to grandfather clocks its just amazing how many parts there is in this branch, i Got months of work ahead of me, but i know it pays of in the end
I can’t tell you how much I appreciate this video and it’s timing. I’m an amateur that has just started, and I’m working on and FHF 28 caliber. While I was inspecting the escape wheel my tweezers lost their grip on it and it bounced off of my work surface and onto the floor damaging it beyond repair. Because of this video I was able to identify that this was an FHF 28 movement AND find a new escape wheel on eBay. I had no idea what to look for to identify a caliber before. Thank you so much!
I'm in the same boat as you... frustrated at getting encouraging advice! Being laughed at is not very pleasant!
Anyway, I wish you luck... my age is against me!
Like others before who commented. You have made a great light in the darkness. Thank you
I love this channel. I am filling a thick notebook full of notes.
What YOU DO That is fantastic is your livestream and interaction withe all of us.
I am 18 in college studying music education, I am also a hobbyist watch repairman that focuses on pocket watches, just this week I’ve managed to bring back two watches needing a new balance staff, a Waltham 16s riverside and an Elgin 344 from 1915. It’s among the most rewarding things that I’ve experienced and provides me some extra money to deal with college expenses. I only comment this because I would like to think that I would be considered a part of the next generation and although I may not be moving hundreds of watches keeping one more alive for a bit longer is an honor I think very highly that I have the opportunity for.
Very valuable knowledge to share with upcoming watchmakers, and hobbies! Thank you!
this is gold for a hobbyist like myself.
merci beaucoup mon amie l'horloger
Great content on your channel and a couple of nice give away pieces.
Thank you Kalle for the information. 👍
This was a fantastic lesson. Thank you for sharing.
I am riveted to every word you speak! Having such experience to tap into is priceless. Thank You So Much!
Wow that is so interesting about the vintage parts , makers , repair parts. Ect.findig someone to actually know what they are doing with your vintage watch. Thank you. SO MUCH .
Thank you for this. I have learnt so much from you. Your passion is infectious 😊
Great video. I'm just starting and trying to get a shop set up. Very useful information.
Some interesting points there about the watch repair industry. There is something of a resurgence in the popularity of mechanical watches, even at the budget end. Maybe thats linked to the broader vintage/retro thing, like vinyl lp's. Will those watches get serviced in future? Will movements just be replaced whole if a watch plays up? I hear that is already happening. Even high end brands are shifting huge numbers. Hopefully there will still be a need for repair shops.
Very helpful!
thank you for sharing your knowledge .
And 1 ligne is 2.2558291 mm. There are 12 lignes to one French inch (pouce). Een Franse inch is dus 27,06 mm en een Engelse 25,4mm...om het allemaal lekker overzichtelijk te houden 🙂
Great video, thanks for sharing
Thank you for bringing this to light, it is an important topic that needs more discussions that could lead to solutions in the mid term.
😀Thank you very much for your video. Please tell your friends that discouradged you to make this video that they are totalyy wrong. No insult to them. You are the only watchmaker on youtube that is talking about this subject. Personaly I don't know where to find this kind of info that provided. Thanks again for a very usefull video for beginers like me.
I really like your video, you are so right about the vintage watches, this watches have defects, all Landeron, Valjoux and Venus movements have defects and need to be fixed from professional watchmakers. The watchmakers in the factories work, only with new watches and there everything is fine, they assemble and the watches go on the market. I started my business like a hobby, but now I sell parts all around the world, specially for vintage watches. Over the years I have learned all the weaknesses and quirks of these watches, especially the chronograph
Thank you sir for good content and especially sharining the dictionary document.
Thank you very much for your magisterial video. Was great to know every part has a number. However it wasn't the only thing I learned today. THANK YOU
Very informative, thank you for the information
Silica gel packs can be useful for keeping things dry. Also, knowing what the name of a component is and the exact dimensions is important.
Thanks for the info, I've been wanting to learn how to repair and lubricate watch movements as a hobby.
Funny and sobering at the same time. And I thought bicycle parts supply was flaky. Found the Dictionnaire online in PDF. Thanks!
Thank you very much for this information. Cheers.
Missed it by thaaat much. I should have watched this video, and checked out the Dictionnaire Technologique a few days ago, before I got excited and ordered a hard to find (At least as factory FHF part.) complete balance. After ordering I realized that the one I needed had an overcoil, and that I may have bought one with a flat HS. Oh well...live and learn. And now, I'll get back to your fine video that I should have watched days ago. I've enjoyed all I've watched so far. Thanks. Cheers.
thx the most valuable info this dictionay and I never knew about the standardization of numbering, if only that was for car parts also )
the Ship of Theseus is a thought experiment that raises the question of whether an object that has had all of its components replaced remains fundamentally the same object.
how dose this affect the value of vintage watches ?
What do you mean “don’t touch that subject”? By far the best explanation/tool shared here on UA-cam! I just got a bestfit books set with all of the parts from Mr. Dan Gerdron, who’s passed away in September 25th, and was helping me. The book is awesome but intimidating at times, as everything is in watchmaking, and I was confused on how to describe, find, and buy parts for my future customers, but there you come again to save the day! Despite any controversy from your colleagues, you still took upon yourself to shed some light on this matter! Teaching is going over every aspect of what you teach! It might look insignificant, it might look waste of time, it might look too difficult, but every bit of information in any field can be priceless in the full concept of the art! ❤❤❤❤
Thank you very much!
000😊qué
Thank you
Loved the video. Please show us how you make parts.
Never throw away a junked movement. Today, I was working on an Elgin 671 and somehow the yoke disappeared between the cleaning process and the part bin. I grabbed my spare 15/0 part box and there was the yoke I needed.
Exactly. I have a ton of parts stored away in vintage movements. From pocket watches to even cufflink watches.
I have enough Rolex parts to last a lifetime. But I only see a Rolex every once and awhile. What I need to continously keep in stock is 7750 parts. I mainly work on chronograph automatic watches. Suisse , I also work on a lot of German made watches ( which is where my heart beats the fastest) i love German watches.
I own am A . Lange & Sohne Langematik which needs a new mainspring and rotor bearing. Let me tell you folks A. Lange & Sohne make absolutely fantastic watches. I purchased this one at a very reasonable price because the own thought he new how to fix it.
Now it is mine and it will be done right.
But parts. Sigh.
Another watch I really wish to fix is a Daniel JeanRichard Chronoscope that needs pushers. I purchased it from a nice fellow out of the UK and now I am having issues finding parts. Everyone sell Daniel JeanRichard, but no body has a contact number for them? Hmm? Two pushers and that watch is done.
So yeah, part locating does suck..
Do you reassemble the movement as fas as possible again after taking parts or do you have separate bins for movements?
i agree with you entirely especially with difference in the knowhow of technicians who assemble and do regular watch maintenance vs. watch makers experienced with vintage watches. One only needs to look at the car industry, which I think shares the same situation. The regular car service from an authorized dealer probably wouldn’t be the best place to go to help you restore and maintain a vintage car even if this were from the same manufacturer.
i just subscribed to your channel and have watched more than a couple already! nice work!
ETA recent monopoly of their movement has probably trickled down to parts!
Excellent documentary on watch parts👌❤️👍, lots of older mfgr. also may have the same interchangeability of parts ex.: late Universel Genève were built with ETA movements but are stamped with the UG code, another great e-site is Movement database (interchangeability of parts)👍to orient yourself in the maze of movements.
Thanks,
Johnny
Thanks!
huge fan
Complimenti per il modo in cui vengono trattati gli argomenti, be!l canale mi sono appena iscritto.
Thanks for making and sharing another very informative and helpful video, Kalle!! As a mate/partner to this video, could you please make a video explaining how to use the BestFit encyclopedias? Thanks again!!
"When you buy watch parts".... then proceeds to show us EVERY watch stem ever produced...lmfao I'm like dude you have them all! Rofl great video
🤣🤣🤣🤣
Hi can you tell us how to use the Ronda book for ballance staffs ❤ Regards Debbie
Hello, something very very help full , and conclusion can you help us with spare parts ? Interesting and always full of knowledge! 10x
Very interesting..I also have this Dictionarire Technologique Book-1969.I didn't know it was international nummers.
Du you have this Book"The Watchmakers Staking Tool" by George Lucchina-1987.??
I don't know exactly which ones from Stakings to use.
Thanks Kalle, very informative.Itzhac
Hi, nice videos in general and very interesting this one in particular. I’ve approached watches repairing some years ago and I’m enjoying the “path”, I mean the learning process I’m following day by day. For a newcomer like me I think would be interesting and useful to approach the spare parts finding problem also from the other point of view; I mean I have a broken or a missing part in a vintage unknown watch then how can I precisely identify and to look for it.
nice video.. i want aviator watch inside bezel please tel me where i can find this...?
Everytime he sip his espresso, makes me want a coffee so bad..
There must be a black hole that’s sucks-in watch parts especially vintage watch parts!
Awesome video and thank you for making these videos.
How do I send you my watch?
I Bought watch and clock parts from an Estate Sale.Alot of inside detailed delicate parts tiny screws to gears to springs to having no clue what I have. Some new some old. I just wanted the case utility box they came in and cigar boxes he had his welding tools in . He did repairs I'm guessing because he had the tools and equipment that I did not purchase . I only wanted the chest or box they came in . I have alot if parts ive organized them as much as I could. Even the little screws . He had them quite organized already . Alot say Swiss and from some Watch Co. And Waltham , Bulova, Elgin, Timex, Jergensen, lLongines , coulture??, I am looking to sell them and not to a crafter who will destroy such beautiful delicate pieces. I'm in Ca. USA if you are interested let me know . Again not sure what I have . I will be glad to send you images..
Hi just an amateur here, I'm curious. Why would some people buy super old vintage mostly faded dials for high prices?
Thanks Kalle, very informative. I,d love to know of some actual suppliers. I use Cousins, and eBay, but there must be some jems out there that I don’t know. Is there a database or could amongst the members we create one?
I'm 22 years old, I repair watches as an hobby and my dream is to make it a profession
Cool
Thanks a lot Kalle for your very informative videos! I have taken up watchmaking as a hobby less than a year ago and your channel has been invaluable to me.
I have a parts-related question, specifically about screws: how you do identify and replace a screw when the original reference is discontinued or not available?
I will make a special video about screws. Coming up!
@@ChronoglideWatchmaking thanks a lot, I look forward to it! Greetings from Spain!
Sir! Thank you for this video! Can you help me by making me a sweep second pinion gear for omega 1020? I want to restore my fathers watch. Part 7217, destroyed by cannon the destroyer. How do we avail your expertise? Am in a 3rd world country so no supply for the part
Great video! I wish I could find those neat green plastic parts package holders. (dividers?) I need those in my life. :)
It has been a long time since i bought them, at the time they were available at Flume . de. Cya! Kalle
@@ChronoglideWatchmaking Thank you sir!
Interesting topic indeed, but to be honest I didn’t learn much of it. I hoped you would share some of the sources for watch parts and the info they need to find a correct part. I find many suppliers and some even only deal with registered watchmakers. I would love to see a listing of suppliers that you recommend for certain type of parts or brands. I don’t think that would offend any of the companies. I wonder if you may find interchangeable parts between inhouse made movements too? Does it eventually exist any listings of that?
IM having a real hard time finding parts for my accutrons, Especially the coils. which has prompted me to start designing a coil wrapping machine do I can rewind coils.
Those are getting rare indeed, excellent step of creating them yourself, bravo!
Hi , I am just looking for a watch part. I am not a watchmaker. My watch straps broke, they were leather. On the back of the watch it has this number printed on the back K43231 00. I am basically looking for a watch shoulder. Where can I order it please?
Thanks for a video)) Don't you mind to offer watch parts for sale? if any available?
Hi , Thank you , as always very usefull information - especialy for hobby guy like me. I am wodndering about the last tink you said that you are able to make yourself all watchpart.. From my experiance with very old movements is a problem to find exact part - and if we come to a problem like that - can we order in your watchmaking shop a part to be made ?
Which is the best site to buy watch hands from?
Thanks
@1:35 you said you will tell use where to find and how to buy watchparts. Somehow I missed the answer?
Like in one of your previous videos where you were talking about datasheets which can bei found for download...but you never gave the answer to the question of the download location?
Nevertheless: Thank you for the PDF, very helpfull!
someone know a site where i can find those blisters?
I'm struggling to find parts for a vintage Fortis Marinemaster and a vintage Roamer Stingray, do yo have any advice as to where I can find them?
The crowns for the Fortis Marinemaster seem to be especially difficult.
Is it possible to service the Powermatic 80 movement on your own or you absolutely have to bring it to Tissot ?
I own a swiss machine shop here in US so please let me know what watch parts you need I can possibly make them for you. Have 30 years experience in this field.
Thanks a lot for your video ! Very helpful :)
Do you have some tips / links / websites which reference all known calibers and dimensions ? 🙏🏻
For example, I am looking for a balance spring of a phoenix 459 caliber, but I cannot find information on the web to find a replica part. How is it possible to manage this kind of situation ? Thanks a lot for your help :) !!
I want to be a watchmaker, but where I'm located school isn't an option. I'm hoping for an apprenticeship somewhere halfway close by.
The Intermedia Wheel 203 , the caliber only for ETA Movements? I see 2409 on it . Means that , thats this wheel also fit in a Vostok 2409 ?
Probably not unfortunately.
Kalle -- Love your channel and watches. What you say is 100% correct but I do not see a bright future for watch makers and vintage watches. Up to about the mid 80's we were a repair bases society. Product manufactures made products to last many generations, the better you made the product the longer it lasted. This started to change around the time of the Quartz-Crisis, product manufactures began to realize that it was better (for business) to build-in obsolesces than to build a great product. Fast-forward to today and you will notice that we live in a 'throw-away' society and everything you purchase is disposable from cars, to phones, EVERYTHING.....TESLA and The SWATCH Group are good examples. ETA saying they are not going to sell parts anymore is the first step into making watches yet another disposable commodity. While the short-term may be bright, the long term looks pretty bleak to me, ETA will charge big repair fees that effectively make their products unrepairable, feeding the disposable product sale. .
I think that the link that you make between the Quartz crisis and its consequences with the throwaway society is quite right. However, your provision for watch parts not being produced anymore by ETA and its obscure consequences seems quite short-sighted to me. I think the corrosion had already started with the industrial revolution, so not after the quartz crisis. Factories, instead of people, started producing fast and cheap products, yes, but their quality output was everything but excellent. This makes all of us potential customers looking for cheap but reliable products, use them for some time and when its time is up, you can replace them with a new(er) one. But the mechanical watch world is yet quite different. It has a much more refined clientele, that respects the past and has a passion for mechanics, which contain parts that can be ever repairable. My opinion is that the watch industry will never fail. It will has its ups and downs, but it will always be there. Because it is necessary and possible to evolve in a way it has never known before. The higher you go on the scale, the better quality you can find. I think this is timeless, so it will never disappear.
@@ramazanbaris2349 💯💯💯💯
Hi CGW...
My biggest problem I have found is getting a square crystal, about 1.5mm thick...
In the UK there are few suppliers, and the prices here are really high.... Some quoted me up to £200 ... for a 30mm square crystal...
Others won't entertain a one off crystal...
I'm so close to giving up this project, as life is to short ... lol
Frank...
Have you considered talking to lensmakers? Optometrists have to deal with unique lenses all the time. Different shape lenses, to fit different frames, with different grinds, to fit individual prescriptions, and they can do coatings, protections, etc. You might be able to get a custom one from them?
Large companies will handle the coming tidal wave of work like they always have. First try to deny the issue, second blame the customer, third resist hiring at any cost by lengthening service turn-around time, fourth increase the cost, and finally, degrade the customer experience in the hope that they just "go away".
When can we get you a microphone? It is very hard to hear you sometimes.
Hi sar how to order watch parts
Try eBay my friend
Dictonaire Technoloique Ebauches PDF download Below...
Below where ?
Hello, sorry I cannot see it ? I'm doing something wrong?
Would you have a PDF of Dictionnaire to spare?
Hi and let me compliment you with the video. I am finding it difficult to find parts for my FORTIS AS 5008 and would you mind telling me what are the alternatives for a AS 5008????
We just did a live stream about the AS 5008 in a Maurice Lacroix alarm wristwatch. Definitely not an easy movement and parts are getting scarce. We just sourced an escape wheel. I am not aware of any alternatives, sorry.
@@ChronoglideWatchmaking Noted with response and thank you. Wouldn't the book you showed "Dictionnaire Technologique" give an idea of an alternative source???
This might be helpful: www.ranfft.de/cgi-bin/bidfun-db.cgi?10&ranfft&&2uswk&AS_5008
@@ChronoglideWatchmaking Thank you for all the help.....
Buenas tardes colegas Holandeses, hace pocos días que veo sus videos, soy relojero aquí en Barcelona España desde hace 48 años, estoy apuntado a swatch group y en los relojes modernos se puede encontrar recambio, sobre los relojes antiguos hay muchos problemas para encontrar recambios sobre todo tengo escasez de cuerdas, los fabricantes solo quieren vender grandes cantidades y el almacén no le interesa comprarlos, aquí habian almacenes que suministraban recambio pero estos han dejado de dar servicio, pues solo venden las piezas más rentables ejemplo pilas, correas y maquinas completas de cuarzo no quieren saber nada de recambios antiguos y lo que tienen lo están liquidando, los relojeros profesionales que quedan aquí tiene más de 60 años, estaba comprando piezas en Inglaterra pero este proveedor se ha puesto imposible por culpa de el bresxit sobre los recambios con los relojes de pared es aún peor, soluciono muchas reparaciones con el torno de relojería que tengo, seguiré viendo sus vídeos, un saludo.
One consequence of the editing process is that the coffee glass keeps appearing and disappearing throughout the video!
How about more quartz watches to ease the repair problem? There is nothing wrong with quartz I would buy quartz if I had that option for high end watches. And it’s more accurate and grab and go no setting!!!
I'm strictly vintage watchmaker, 3rd generation. All the new stuff means nothing to me especially new quartz, I'm sorry but new is garbage (no offense). Key advice learn to make ur own parts by hand! Invest in a good lathe n practice as much as u can. Imagine soldering a wheel n filing a new tooth! Great post brother 🥂
Couldn't agree more! Thnx
Do you sell parts?
No not really, sorry.
@@ChronoglideWatchmaking what a bummer man
Again the wording could be better, a “premiere “ would indicate something special, as would a specific time given. I am sorry Kalle this is just a video that could have been uploaded and we would have seen it in our subscription feed.
I do understand (and value!) your feedback Tom. This is an premiere of a new video. I keep it in mind for future edits. Thnx!
Oh now that is just wrong! You walk over to a cabinet that has 85% of all the Suisse parts in the world. I look at my very nice CE Marshall wood cabinet and point and laugh at it.
But seriously watch part searches suck! I can buy all the tooling in the world but watch parts. Sigh. If it is current ETA and Seiko then not so hard.
What I really need is a lifetime supply of hairspring and the best possible way to fix them. I hate hairsprings with a passion.
10 out of 10 for really great useful content, (very helpful indeed), but 7 out of 10 for your presentation and 1 more deducted for the strange and unnecessary time wasting sipping from a cup of water during a professional UA-cam presentation. Drink before if you’re that thirsty. If it’s supposed to look cool and relaxed; it doesn’t. Well done on your information and content though, not found elsewhere. 😂
Very funny. Kinda like the person who puts a dollar in change on a table for a tip and then slowly starts deducting for this and that. It takes all kinds?
I appreciate your videos very much. However, you tend to beat around the bush and say the same thing over and over again. I've watched 30 minute videos that could have been just as informative at ten minutes long. This is one of them. You need to be a little more direct and stop repeating the same thing over and over.
That being said... Thank you for making great content that helps the community.
Far Eastern viewers ask me to talk slower and repeat the information a bit more. I realise now this is too much. Thank you so much for the feedback Luke!
@@ChronoglideWatchmaking You are a fantastic teacher and have some of the best watch repair videos on UA-cam. They have helped me so much. Thank you. I hope the previous comment didn't come off as rude.
Oh no Luke, I really value feedback. You are helping me!
hi I have questions about Rolex can I email you pictures
there is a pdf of the dictionnaire technologique here www.welwynwatches.co.uk/uploads/9/1/4/3/9143536/dictionary_ebauches_sa.pdf