As long as it looks good even with light coats and clear added on top that's perfect . Not crazy complicated easy enough with a little practice to follow
Great video!! How do you blend different body parts, a door for example. A new color on a door will look different from the other door and wheel panels.
Wow impressed red is probably the most difficult colors to blend . At least the older paint on other side wantst faded bad or would be near impossible great job for a spray can at that
Bro real quick is the side on the left the red color is that sanded. If so what grit. Like did y just sand it to take off the clear coat Something like 1500 2000 2500 grit? Also cuz it looks a bit flat. Cuz I have to blend some repair work into the main panels of door and rocker panel so shuld I do a fine sanding of most of the area before I do my base coat and 2nd 3rd coats?
Yes - it was scuffed with a red scotch brite pad - www.amazon.com/Mirka-18-118-447-pieces-2-Inch-9-Inch/dp/B001BKW03S/ref=sr_1_2_mod_primary_new?dchild=1&keywords=mirka+scuff+pad&qid= You can use the red or the grey if you want to go finer.
When using Dupli-Color I have trouble when blending the paint over the primer, looks really close to the factory paint. As I move onto the factory paint, the Dupli-Color gets darker. Am I not blending a wide enough area? Also, when should you use a primer vs a primer-Sealer
Depends G.M. had about 10 different varieties of silver for one car around 1998 just had to get the right one... But the branding would be the same process the farther away from the repair the better but then it like doing a couple panels to his more but there are so many factors ... Humidity is a big factor, from one day to another the same paint can could be altered color... Getting to cold the paint could haze .. but this person with his video's description is really good...
It is, you can cover the whole panel with color if the last coat is very thin which this paint is - it doesn't really change the color but blends the colors. but here's a different one you may like better - ua-cam.com/video/YT5_i-AsY4E/v-deo.html
Thanks for the video. Watched it just before doing a touchup on the tailgate of a black Ford F150 pick up. Learned a couple techniques that I wouldn’t have thought of. Thanks man
Yes. You can use the grey scuff pads too if you like it finer. I usually give the whole thing one light shot on the last coat just in case the scuff marks try to show up through the clear. With a real light coat i doesn't really change the color of the old paint at all - you can thin that last dusting a lot too - it's just to hide the scuffing.
You're first coat doesn't change the color but helps blend everything together - especially with super thin paint like this, thus spraying all the way to the other side :)
You could do that too - but in this case one pass of very thin paint doesn't change the color from the original enough for the eye to notice when you are blending paint for real - it's OK to dust right to the end especially at corners of a vehicle like this situation :)
@@LakesideAutobody i kind of get that its just im looking to fix a baseball size area of damage and was trying to find out how to do that without painting the whole panel, you basically sprayed the whole thing. I get you feathered the left side to help match the panel around the corner but didnt really explain just fixing a baseball size area with some fading or whatever
Hello, I'mmmmm back! For my 2005 dodge ram: After watching your videos. I cut out my rusted wheel well, flanged for the new panel to sit flush in and flux core welded the entire seam slowly so no heat warping. I bought Bondo glass putty(still waiting for delivery) to make the weld seams more water resistant and then regular bondo over that. I decided on Dupli-color top coat and dupli-color 1k gasoline resistant clear gloss.... I'm confused, what primer to use that will cover the bondo and feather out onto the painted surface...also not react with my paint formulations.
Any primer surfacer will work for you. You can use lacquer primer surfacer, urethane primer surfacer or polyester primer surfacer like Feather Fill. You can also purchase spray bomb primer surfacer if your repair area is quite small.
If you spray paint a little test piece and it comes close you'll be fine. If it doesn't match real well before clear you can always sand it down and try again with a different paint or professionally mixed paint.. You may have to start blending onto the next panel though eventually.
Hi great footage I had some of original paint put in spray can but when I spray it it's little darker then old existing paint how do get it to match to the old so it all look one color.
Good day, I have a question regarding the blending process; for a larger area could I take a blending liquid and 1 part color and then spray the larger area; kind of an added coat before applying clear?? maybe a blend of 1:1 blending liquid and color??? great video,s I,m learning a lot; thank,s PATRICK.P
Do you mean a blending agent? I don't think mixing the two would work - but that's just my opinion. All you can do is try it and see if it works. Let me know if you do try it and how it works.
@@LakesideAutobody I realize your a very busy person- I caught the blending technique on another web site- "PAINT SOCIETY" if you have a few minutes check out their "BLENDING VIDEO"- thanks again,PATRICK.P
I did hit the bare spots with a bit of rattle can primer before the Duplicolor. It is necessary to hit the bare metal spots - you can use any cheap spray bomb primer for metal like rustoleum, ace hardware, etc. Have a great weekend Diego :)
Great video. So, that clearcoat is a catalyzed urethane clearcoat, correct. Good to know it is compatible with the Duplicolor Perfect Match. How long did you let the Duplicolor flash before using applying the clearcoat? Thank you.
Yes - Duplicolor is lacquer based and you can use catalyzed enamel or urethane clear. I waited about an hour before clear coating. Since it's lacquer it dries quickly. You can wait longer (2-3) hours if you want to be really safe.
@@LakesideAutobody Great to know. Thank you for your quick reply. I have just subscribed! One more question: do you know of a good paintable sealant, kind of like a caulk or silicone? I need to seal a crack on a body panel.
@@gustavette8487 You're welcome. I like this stuff - dries fast: www.amazon.com/ACDelco-10-2013-Joint-Filler-Compound/dp/B007Q0ZQGK/ref=sr_1_3?dchild=1&gclid=
You can get away with 220 on a DA for speed. 240-320 on a DA is the norm. I think I use 220 on this video and the red scuff pad for the area to be blended on. If that didn't answer your ? ask again :)
@@LakesideAutobody do you happen to know roughly what grit the red scuff pad is? Also where you sanded to blend (with the red scuff pad) did you take the clear coat completely off or did you just scuff it for the paint and new clear to stick? -Great video !
Jerry, I have some questions; first of all, do you have a paint booth? I haven't noticed one and you seem to get no dirt in your paint? Second. I have a friend that has a 29 model A roadster. On top of the door where your arm hangs out there are a few places that are close to 1/2 inch in diameter that has paint missing. The primer is there in some of them and not on some others. You can definitely feel the edges of the chips. I got some single stage urethane to fix them. Which would be better. Use a brush and fill the chips with paint and then sand and buff or should I fill the divots with a glaze and then airbrush some primer and paint on it and then sand and buff? What are your recommendations? Thanks, Tom
I don't have a booth but I do know that when you think you have all the dust off of the car and you are about to paint... you don't. All the dust you get in your paint job is already on the panel before you started painting. It sort or sticks because of an electrostatic charge, so no matter how much you blow it off it's still there. I blow and wipe with my hand and wipe my hand on my pants, blow my hand off and keep doing that until I feel no dust at all. Folks say you'll get fish eyes but you wont if your hand is dry and clean. Then use a tack cloth and paint. I do it in this vid (a little bit) ua-cam.com/video/VNrIwVMxjI0/v-deo.html As for the chips, I have tried what you are talking about and never had any luck with that. You should try it on one though just to see for yourself. I think you'd have better luck filling with glaze and airbrushing. Have a good week :)
Great video on showing how to blend feathering it back to hide the color I wish some of the replacement parts shops would blend but they only do panels and they look like night and day...
If someone wanted to prep an old car and take there time doing it right could it be painted and clear coated with a bunch of these rattle cans? Is there a good clear in a rattle can?
It can be done but the paint in rattle cans isn't quite as shiny and durable as real automotive paint. I've actually seen it done before and it looked respectable but was not a show car.
Good. You painted and mixed the color on that door. But when you put the door on the car, colour it will be different from the rest of the old car color. So you will have to mix the color and paint whole car to match. It interests me, if possible, to match the colors in such a way as to perfectly match the color with the one that already exists, so that we only paint the damaged area, and not more.
Unless you mix your own paint, close is the best you can hope for. If you mix your own paint, you can do spray out cards and match the paint very very close. If it has pearl or metallic flake, there is a whole added level of matching to be done. When I blend paint, I first put a coat of clear base or intercoat on. Next I hit it with a blending solvent and then I apply my color to the repair area using a similar technique as shown in this video. After that, I mix about 1 part or less color to 4 parts or more clear base and blend that out a bit further. Then I clear the whole repair with a soft edge. After the clear is flashed, and only if absolutely needed, I will hit the edge where the old clear and new clear meet with my blending solvent. It is a bit more involved, and it is not the only way, and may not even be the best or the right way, but that is how I do it.
This guy is a joke first off the emblems should be taken off because its gonna peel around them second i’ve never ever seen a real bodyman use spray cans to paint anything i was an autobody tech for 45yrs what he doesnt show is the paint on that gate doesnt match the car where it meets the bumper and quarter panel! You want your car done right go to a Reputable body shop that doesnt use spray cans!🤣😂
This is a demonstration for folks that want to use the paint from the auto parts stores like duplicolor perfect match. Here's one you may like better: ua-cam.com/video/YT5_i-AsY4E/v-deo.html
Hello, I love your content! Please excuse my ignorance, but do you recommend light sanding/scuffing the entire panel so that the paint you are blending and the clear have something to stick to? Is it even possible to lay paint over lightly scuffed clear for blending purposes? Or do you just sand and prime the scratched area and blend the paint and clear into the existing paint and clear without any prep on the surrounding area? A response would be greatly appreciated, Thank you for your content!
Ask any ? you want. For blending purposes you can use a red or grey (finer) scuff pads - I use the red - scuff the existing paint (every square millimeter) - on your last coat, dust the whole thing real light so no scratches show up in the clear - it's to light to mess with the color of the ex paint. Let the color dry for 1/2 hour or so - then 2 coats of clear - 1 light / 1 wet - hope that helps Oh and check out my next vid - it's doing exactly what we were talking about.
Lakeside Autobody Thank you! And yes I found that video right after I left that comment *sigh* Regardless thank you for the response and just want you to know that your videos are a great help!👍🏻
Good job! I just finished doing the hood of a chevy cobalt I bought to flip and the clear on the hood was so bad I had to go the route of the dupli-color. I could not believe those little 8oz cans of paint were like 8 bucks! I finished it up using clear coat over that and it turned out amazing!
It's OK to run a light coat right to the edge of the panel if the paint is thinned or reduced enough. If the paint is a close match, you won't notice and it also make a more un noticeable transition :)
You do not need to sand it. You can put acrylic enamel, urethane, or clear lacquer over the top. In the 70's and 80's lacquer was used a lot - we often used Dupont Centari Acrylic Enamel to clear spot repairs over lacquer and never had a problem. Some may say disagree but.....
It should work fine over it. Even though the Duplicolor is lacquer based (not urethane or enamel) it has been common practice for years to spray enamel clear over lacquer paint/primer or enamel or urethane over lacquer primer. You can't spray lacquer over fresh enamel though (possible but difficult) - it will wrinkle. It would be best to do a small practice piece first however. Like paint a tin can or something and check for sure.
@@LakesideAutobody Thanks... I would use the Duplicolor clear gloss which would be very compatible but I just saw a review with someone spilling gas on his finished work (Motorcycle gas tank) and it damaged the finish.
@@wkw4095 Gotya. I'm thinking gas on any newer paint job would not be too good. After that stuff really dries (like a long time) it will be fine though. If you clear it with legit auto 2K clear you won't have to worry about that too much but that route is quite expensive.
@@LakesideAutobody Well, if Dupli-color clear gloss hardens over time, I just might take my chances with it. Thanks for your time and I'm really enjoying your videos.
Yes - scuff anything that's going to get something sprayed on it. Remember any thing that is shiny or not scuffed, paint will just flake right off of it.
@@dicklongmire6836 Yes - my dad used to use rubbing compound with the buffer, wipe it clean with reducer / wax and grease remover and paint. He used lacquer though - I've never done it that way - I've always scuffed along with every guy I've worked with in shops. I've never seen the scuff marks under the clear.
As long as it looks good even with light coats and clear added on top that's perfect . Not crazy complicated easy enough with a little practice to follow
Great video!! How do you blend different body parts, a door for example. A new color on a door will look different from the other door and wheel panels.
Wow impressed red is probably the most difficult colors to blend . At least the older paint on other side wantst faded bad or would be near impossible great job for a spray can at that
Bro real quick is the side on the left the red color is that sanded. If so what grit. Like did y just sand it to take off the clear coat
Something like 1500 2000 2500 grit?
Also cuz it looks a bit flat. Cuz I have to blend some repair work into the main panels of door and rocker panel so shuld I do a fine sanding of most of the area before I do my base coat and 2nd 3rd coats?
Yes - it was scuffed with a red scotch brite pad - www.amazon.com/Mirka-18-118-447-pieces-2-Inch-9-Inch/dp/B001BKW03S/ref=sr_1_2_mod_primary_new?dchild=1&keywords=mirka+scuff+pad&qid= You can use the red or the grey if you want to go finer.
@@LakesideAutobody hey sweet. Thx for replying to me. I'll b shopping for these and get on it.
God bless man!
@@dannyr333 God bless you too my friend - have a good weekend :)
When using Dupli-Color I have trouble when blending the paint over the primer, looks really close to the factory paint. As I move onto the factory paint, the Dupli-Color gets darker. Am I not blending a wide enough area?
Also, when should you use a primer vs a primer-Sealer
liked the video wish you would have shown it on the vehicle it would have shown the results of the blend i did subscribe lol
Came out really nice! Thanks for showing how its done!
You're welcome :)
You are a wise man. Wish you would do a silver color. Silver is a nightmare
Depends G.M. had about 10 different varieties of silver for one car around 1998 just had to get the right one... But the branding would be the same process the farther away from the repair the better but then it like doing a couple panels to his more but there are so many factors ...
Humidity is a big factor, from one day to another the same paint can could be altered color... Getting to cold the paint could haze .. but this person with his video's description is really good...
And they say it can't be done with rattle cans haha silly auto paint technicians
some aerosols can be a nightmare to use, clogging,spitting, failing to work,;;;
Looks great but you should be using charcoal canisters on your respirator, those dust pads don’t filter fumes
You're right - I think I forgot on this video - I usually wear one all the time - thanks :)
Your a damn good paint an body guy. But i do not believe that you didn't paint corner to corner
Thanks Brandon - thanks for watching my friend :)
Was there a blending additive applied or was that not necessary ?
Not necessary.
I'm in the process of doing a blend in paint job, thank you for the paint blending tips.
You're welcome :)
Great inspiration. As always … appreciate sharing the product too ….
Thanks Paul :)
Why is the application of clear coat not shown in the video?
Did I skip over it?
perfect
Fantastic 👍👍💪💪
That isn't really blending? It's more painting a whole tailgate.
It is, you can cover the whole panel with color if the last coat is very thin which this paint is - it doesn't really change the color but blends the colors. but here's a different one you may like better - ua-cam.com/video/YT5_i-AsY4E/v-deo.html
You are 100% correct NO Blending here , painted entire panel jajaja
Your technique.... speechless.
Thanks a lot 😊
@@LakesideAutobody I'm not sure that @jimmy_hughes was paying you a compliment.
Thanks for the video. Watched it just before doing a touchup on the tailgate of a black Ford F150 pick up. Learned a couple techniques that I wouldn’t have thought of. Thanks man
You're welcome - glad you could use it :)
When you did this repair did you scuff the rest of the panel to dull the shine before you applied the clear or just cleared it as is?
Yes. You can use the grey scuff pads too if you like it finer. I usually give the whole thing one light shot on the last coat just in case the scuff marks try to show up through the clear. With a real light coat i doesn't really change the color of the old paint at all - you can thin that last dusting a lot too - it's just to hide the scuffing.
Great , thanks for the info. Really good videos and loving the guitar intros, wail baby wail 😊👍
Great video , was hoping to see you clear it with an Aerosol clearcoat.
Thanks GN - have a good night my friend :)
Paint the entire door
You're first coat doesn't change the color but helps blend everything together - especially with super thin paint like this, thus spraying all the way to the other side :)
How to blend paint, paint the whole panel
You could do that too - but in this case one pass of very thin paint doesn't change the color from the original enough for the eye to notice when you are blending paint for real - it's OK to dust right to the end especially at corners of a vehicle like this situation :)
@@LakesideAutobody i kind of get that its just im looking to fix a baseball size area of damage and was trying to find out how to do that without painting the whole panel, you basically sprayed the whole thing. I get you feathered the left side to help match the panel around the corner but didnt really explain just fixing a baseball size area with some fading or whatever
i have replacement grey panel that needs paint, do i need use a primer before paint? or will this work without?
You don't need to prime it. Just scuff and paint if it is in good condition - Scotch-Brite General Purpose Hand Pad 7447
Why are you wearing particulate filters when you’re using a mist/vapor product?
I wear the vapor mask when spraying paint w/ hardener or other materials with a hardener in it. Thanks though, I'll consider your suggestion. :)
Hello, I'mmmmm back! For my 2005 dodge ram: After watching your videos. I cut out my rusted wheel well, flanged for the new panel to sit flush in and flux core welded the entire seam slowly so no heat warping. I bought Bondo glass putty(still waiting for delivery) to make the weld seams more water resistant and then regular bondo over that. I decided on Dupli-color top coat and dupli-color 1k gasoline resistant clear gloss.... I'm confused, what primer to use that will cover the bondo and feather out onto the painted surface...also not react with my paint formulations.
Any primer surfacer will work for you. You can use lacquer primer surfacer, urethane primer surfacer or polyester primer surfacer like Feather Fill. You can also purchase spray bomb primer surfacer if your repair area is quite small.
even the 7.99 can of Rust oleum sandable primer found in the auto part store?
@@wkw4095 Yes that will work if your area is small. Your paint will stick to any type of primer for metal.
@@LakesideAutobody thanks!
Hey sir do I have to remove the clear coat first? Before blending.
No - you don't have to remove the clear coat first.
what if i dont match the paint well before clear-coating? can i sand it down a little?
If you spray paint a little test piece and it comes close you'll be fine. If it doesn't match real well before clear you can always sand it down and try again with a different paint or professionally mixed paint.. You may have to start blending onto the next panel though eventually.
Hi great footage I had some of original paint put in spray can but when I spray it it's little darker then old existing paint how do get it to match to the old so it all look one color.
Here's the basic idea - if you have more ?s, feel free to ask :)
@LakesideAutobody so do have answers to my first message its question ?
Not bad for a rattle can. Not bad at all!
Thanks SGS - Happy 4th
Did you use just this one 8 oz can for this whole video? Or did you need more than 1?
Yes just one did the job. You can probably expect to use one or two per panel. That was a smaller panel.
Good day, I have a question regarding the blending process; for a larger area could I take a blending liquid and 1 part color and then spray the larger area; kind of an added coat before applying clear?? maybe a blend of 1:1 blending liquid and color??? great video,s I,m learning a lot; thank,s PATRICK.P
Do you mean a blending agent? I don't think mixing the two would work - but that's just my opinion. All you can do is try it and see if it works. Let me know if you do try it and how it works.
@@LakesideAutobody I realize your a very busy person- I caught the blending technique on another web site- "PAINT SOCIETY" if you have a few minutes check out their "BLENDING VIDEO"- thanks again,PATRICK.P
did he prime it before the duplicolor? is it necessary to prime it?
I did hit the bare spots with a bit of rattle can primer before the Duplicolor. It is necessary to hit the bare metal spots - you can use any cheap spray bomb primer for metal like rustoleum, ace hardware, etc. Have a great weekend Diego :)
@@LakesideAutobody thanks for the info appreciated 👍.
Great video. So, that clearcoat is a catalyzed urethane clearcoat, correct. Good to know it is compatible with the Duplicolor Perfect Match. How long did you let the Duplicolor flash before using applying the clearcoat? Thank you.
Yes - Duplicolor is lacquer based and you can use catalyzed enamel or urethane clear. I waited about an hour before clear coating. Since it's lacquer it dries quickly. You can wait longer (2-3) hours if you want to be really safe.
@@LakesideAutobody Great to know. Thank you for your quick reply. I have just subscribed! One more question: do you know of a good paintable sealant, kind of like a caulk or silicone? I need to seal a crack on a body panel.
@@gustavette8487 You're welcome. I like this stuff - dries fast: www.amazon.com/ACDelco-10-2013-Joint-Filler-Compound/dp/B007Q0ZQGK/ref=sr_1_3?dchild=1&gclid=
@@LakesideAutobody Thank you!
Really enjoyed this blending video
Thanks Jon - hope everything is good with you :)
Great opening riff!
Thanks Bondpit - have a good weekend :)
What grit sandpaper did you use to prep the panel before paint
You can get away with 220 on a DA for speed. 240-320 on a DA is the norm. I think I use 220 on this video and the red scuff pad for the area to be blended on. If that didn't answer your ? ask again :)
@@LakesideAutobody do you happen to know roughly what grit the red scuff pad is? Also where you sanded to blend (with the red scuff pad) did you take the clear coat completely off or did you just scuff it for the paint and new clear to stick? -Great video !
Good work my man
Thanks Christian - have a good week 😀
Jerry, I have some questions; first of all, do you have a paint booth? I haven't noticed one and you seem to get no dirt in your paint?
Second. I have a friend that has a 29 model A roadster. On top of the door where your arm hangs out there are a few places that are close to 1/2 inch in diameter that has paint missing. The primer is there in some of them and not on some others. You can definitely feel the edges of the chips. I got some single stage urethane to fix them. Which would be better. Use a brush and fill the chips with paint and then sand and buff or should I fill the divots with a glaze and then airbrush some primer and paint on it and then sand and buff? What are your recommendations? Thanks, Tom
I don't have a booth but I do know that when you think you have all the dust off of the car and you are about to paint... you don't. All the dust you get in your paint job is already on the panel before you started painting. It sort or sticks because of an electrostatic charge, so no matter how much you blow it off it's still there. I blow and wipe with my hand and wipe my hand on my pants, blow my hand off and keep doing that until I feel no dust at all. Folks say you'll get fish eyes but you wont if your hand is dry and clean. Then use a tack cloth and paint. I do it in this vid (a little bit) ua-cam.com/video/VNrIwVMxjI0/v-deo.html As for the chips, I have tried what you are talking about and never had any luck with that. You should try it on one though just to see for yourself. I think you'd have better luck filling with glaze and airbrushing. Have a good week :)
Great video on showing how to blend feathering it back to hide the color I wish some of the replacement parts shops would blend but they only do panels and they look like night and day...
Thanks Peter - good to hear from you. Have a good weekend :)
If someone wanted to prep an old car and take there time doing it right could it be painted and clear coated with a bunch of these rattle cans? Is there a good clear in a rattle can?
It can be done but the paint in rattle cans isn't quite as shiny and durable as real automotive paint. I've actually seen it done before and it looked respectable but was not a show car.
Thanks for your videos they are really good.
@@lildeena1 You're welcome - hope they help answer your ?s
You need to learn how to flick your wrist, I learned how to do this at 13
Good. You painted and mixed the color on that door. But when you put the door on the car, colour it will be different from the rest of the old car color. So you will have to mix the color and paint whole car to match.
It interests me, if possible, to match the colors in such a way as to perfectly match the color with the one that already exists, so that we only paint the damaged area, and not more.
Unless you mix your own paint, close is the best you can hope for. If you mix your own paint, you can do spray out cards and match the paint very very close. If it has pearl or metallic flake, there is a whole added level of matching to be done. When I blend paint, I first put a coat of clear base or intercoat on. Next I hit it with a blending solvent and then I apply my color to the repair area using a similar technique as shown in this video. After that, I mix about 1 part or less color to 4 parts or more clear base and blend that out a bit further. Then I clear the whole repair with a soft edge. After the clear is flashed, and only if absolutely needed, I will hit the edge where the old clear and new clear meet with my blending solvent. It is a bit more involved, and it is not the only way, and may not even be the best or the right way, but that is how I do it.
This guy is a joke first off the emblems should be taken off because its gonna peel around them second i’ve never ever seen a real bodyman use spray cans to paint anything i was an autobody tech for 45yrs what he doesnt show is the paint on that gate doesnt match the car where it meets the bumper and quarter panel! You want your car done right go to a Reputable body shop that doesnt use spray cans!🤣😂
This is a demonstration for folks that want to use the paint from the auto parts stores like duplicolor perfect match. Here's one you may like better: ua-cam.com/video/YT5_i-AsY4E/v-deo.html
Lmao
Hello, I love your content! Please excuse my ignorance, but do you recommend light sanding/scuffing the entire panel so that the paint you are blending and the clear have something to stick to? Is it even possible to lay paint over lightly scuffed clear for blending purposes? Or do you just sand and prime the scratched area and blend the paint and clear into the existing paint and clear without any prep on the surrounding area? A response would be greatly appreciated, Thank you for your content!
Ask any ? you want. For blending purposes you can use a red or grey (finer) scuff pads - I use the red - scuff the existing paint (every square millimeter) - on your last coat, dust the whole thing real light so no scratches show up in the clear - it's to light to mess with the color of the ex paint. Let the color dry for 1/2 hour or so - then 2 coats of clear - 1 light / 1 wet - hope that helps Oh and check out my next vid - it's doing exactly what we were talking about.
Lakeside Autobody Thank you! And yes I found that video right after I left that comment *sigh* Regardless thank you for the response and just want you to know that your videos are a great help!👍🏻
@@lucasjavidan Thanks - Merry Christmas :)
Lakeside Autobody What do you mean by “dust” the whole thing? Is that a form of sanding or light spraying. Im not familiar with that term
Good job! I just finished doing the hood of a chevy cobalt I bought to flip and the clear on the hood was so bad I had to go the route of the dupli-color. I could not believe those little 8oz cans of paint were like 8 bucks! I finished it up using clear coat over that and it turned out amazing!
Nice job! Yes, paint is expensive for sure. Happy Holidays
11.99 now
This isn’t blending. This is painting
It's OK to run a light coat right to the edge of the panel if the paint is thinned or reduced enough. If the paint is a close match, you won't notice and it also make a more un noticeable transition :)
@@LakesideAutobody I understand but seems it’s just painting a panel at that point
Since the spray bomb is a lacquer did you need to wet sand it with some Ultra Fine before Clear Coating ??
You do not need to sand it. You can put acrylic enamel, urethane, or clear lacquer over the top. In the 70's and 80's lacquer was used a lot - we often used Dupont Centari Acrylic Enamel to clear spot repairs over lacquer and never had a problem. Some may say disagree but.....
@@LakesideAutobody Thanks!! Cant wait to see your welding skills up close!! :)
@@spydermike72 Hey Mike does that 72 represent your first car? Jerry
@@LakesideAutobody No but it could!! It was the Hull number of one of my Navy ships that I was on.
@@spydermike72 Cool.
Hi Jerry I may use the Dupli-Color Perfect Match for my repair. Will the 2K clear gloss work well over this?
It should work fine over it. Even though the Duplicolor is lacquer based (not urethane or enamel) it has been common practice for years to spray enamel clear over lacquer paint/primer or enamel or urethane over lacquer primer. You can't spray lacquer over fresh enamel though (possible but difficult) - it will wrinkle. It would be best to do a small practice piece first however. Like paint a tin can or something and check for sure.
@@LakesideAutobody Thanks... I would use the Duplicolor clear gloss which would be very compatible but I just saw a review with someone spilling gas on his finished work (Motorcycle gas tank) and it damaged the finish.
@@wkw4095 Gotya. I'm thinking gas on any newer paint job would not be too good. After that stuff really dries (like a long time) it will be fine though. If you clear it with legit auto 2K clear you won't have to worry about that too much but that route is quite expensive.
@@LakesideAutobody Well, if Dupli-color clear gloss hardens over time, I just might take my chances with it. Thanks for your time and I'm really enjoying your videos.
@@wkw4095 You're welcome and glad you like the videos :)
So would you still need to key the area you didn't apply the red paint color with a gray scotch bright pad to accept the clear?
Yes - scuff anything that's going to get something sprayed on it. Remember any thing that is shiny or not scuffed, paint will just flake right off of it.
@@LakesideAutobody Thank you sir. So even though the area will be dull (keyed) from the gray scotch bright pad, the clear will bring it out?
@@dicklongmire6836 Yes - my dad used to use rubbing compound with the buffer, wipe it clean with reducer / wax and grease remover and paint. He used lacquer though - I've never done it that way - I've always scuffed along with every guy I've worked with in shops. I've never seen the scuff marks under the clear.
@@LakesideAutobody OK. Thanks. I will try that on the next blend.