Needle and seat is stuck open (most common problem) Take the carb top off and inspect. Old trick is to tap carb sharply with the plastic end of a screwdriver - often will free up needle and seat. If you have too high of fuel pump pressure you can have too long of a pump pushrod. Finally, check pressure with regulator. Usually, fuel in oil is from gas going past the rings and rarely through failed pump diaphragm. Good Luck! 👍
Thanks for your comment. I will look into the rod length as this could be my solution. I was unaware there were two different lengths. I will also fit a pressure gauge as it would be good to be able to regulate it. Jamie
@jamiedowson6482 I have had a sticking needle and seat to be the most likely problem If the pushrod is the longer alternator length it will destroy the fuel pump immediately. Gaskets stacked up and very slight grinding of the pushrod can achieve proper pressure. Best of luck! 👍
According to a VW restoration UA-camr, the fuel filter should never be in the engine compartment. It should be under the car between the fuel line and the engine. I’ve experienced a pin hole in one of the floats, that caused the same problem. It’s difficult to locate and changing the floats is the only solution. I doubt if the fuel pump will still pump fuel when the engine is not running, but stranger things have happened before. Rebuilding kits are inexpensive and could solve the problems. Good luck, looking forward for your solution. Thanks, Rick….. 🇺🇸
Only reasonable place for adjustable filter king is in firewall. Reason for the never install your filter in engine area, is based on fact that most of filters are cheap plastic ones which could melt and is certainly a fire hazard that point. most has been laying over engine cylinder tin. FIlter king has glass bowl so hoses will burn out much earlier than itself will melt. Seen also few cases that plastic filter has been under car in front of engine tin, where fuel line goes through the grommet. that is also way too hot spot to install it. I have used plastic ones clamped next to transmission or clutch line.
My thought was that there could still be pressure in the fuel hose even after the engine is switched off. I also checked the float if it had any fuel inside but was fine. You're right that its not advised to place a cheap plastic filter in the engine bay but the last comment is completely right that a filter king is fine to be fitted on the firewall. I've also seen plastic filters located scarily close to the exhaust near the gearbox that could subsequently melt. Thanks so much for your comments. Jamie
There seems to be more technical answers here than my mechanical knowledge, but I changed out my pump to a E10 rated one from Heritage. Two years on the trot in spring when putting the car ready for summer use, I had fuel in the sump and my fuel lines were all cracked, R9 as well! I’ve swapped out the lines and pump now and no issues, no cracking and no fuel in the sump for last 18 months. It doesn’t help your carb issue Jamie but I wouldn’t be surprised if the pump diaphragm has failed, this new fuel is an old cars nemesis.
Its crazy how the modern fuels eat through the hoses. I too have had to change mine and will make it priority every spring when my cars come out of storage to change them. Thanks for your comment. Jamie
Most market hoses here has already been changed to nitrile butadiene rubber at least inside surface is made from it. Outer layer can be from CR or same NBR as inner layer. Noticed that only ends oh those hoses will crack, and usually just from outside. So when installing new ones, leave few centimeters extra so you can cut 10mm at both ends every year to have clean look at least
Jamie has generator model pump, which has longer rod, with shorter one it doesn't even pump. Alternator pump with generator pump shaft will break mounting flange when torqued. membrane swivel shaft doesn't have enough play for that lenght difference to even work. If pump has around 7-9psi pressure, adding 2,5-3mm more gaskets under pump, will drop it to 2,5-3psi. 2.5psi is recommended pressure from factory to single carb set up
@ this is great thanks. Makes perfect sense. I’ll fit a gauge and plumb the king filter correctly in the spring and go from there. Will also change the bit off valve for original solex and do away with the Chinese one. Hope this solves the problem.
My 59 Deluxe has a fuel on off lever that I installed before the fuel filter,as I'm used to shutting off fuel on my HD, and this also works as a security device to some extent though not my only anti theft device employed. It's not a true fix in your case, but it could limit your problem until you work it out
Thanks for your comment. I was thinking of the same temporary solution until I get this sorted. It wouldn't also be a bad idea to have a fuel tap just in case a hose splits etc. Jamie
I had a cheap Chinese carburator that had 2 washers instead of one that prevented the float from cutting off gas intake that led to gas in oil and cost me a complete rebuild. I bought a better carburator. Peace
I've also learnt the hard way buying inferior cheap quality parts and have caused me problems and lots of wasted time. Sorry to hear yours led to an engine rebuild. Jamie
And pressure will be lot higher without adjusting it... so doesn´t solve anything. In stock engines electric pumps are just waste of money, with dual webers/dellortos those are basic need to feed carb. Even tho, stock typ3 dual carb fuelpump also feeds small capacity 1600-1700cc dualcarb engines just fine in road use. but in full throttle those wont fill bowl enough for long enough
Needle and seat is stuck open (most common problem)
Take the carb top off and inspect.
Old trick is to tap carb sharply with the plastic end of a screwdriver - often will free up needle and seat.
If you have too high of fuel pump pressure you can have too long of a pump pushrod.
Finally, check pressure with regulator.
Usually, fuel in oil is from gas going past the rings and rarely through failed pump diaphragm.
Good Luck! 👍
Thanks for your comment. I will look into the rod length as this could be my solution. I was unaware there were two different lengths. I will also fit a pressure gauge as it would be good to be able to regulate it. Jamie
@jamiedowson6482 I have had a sticking needle and seat to be the most likely problem If the pushrod is the longer alternator length it will destroy the fuel pump immediately. Gaskets stacked up and very slight grinding of the pushrod can achieve proper pressure. Best of luck! 👍
According to a VW restoration UA-camr, the fuel filter should never be in the engine compartment. It should be under the car between the fuel line and the engine. I’ve experienced a pin hole in one of the floats, that caused the same problem. It’s difficult to locate and changing the floats is the only solution. I doubt if the fuel pump will still pump fuel when the engine is not running, but stranger things have happened before. Rebuilding kits are inexpensive and could solve the problems. Good luck, looking forward for your solution. Thanks, Rick….. 🇺🇸
Only reasonable place for adjustable filter king is in firewall. Reason for the never install your filter in engine area, is based on fact that most of filters are cheap plastic ones which could melt and is certainly a fire hazard that point. most has been laying over engine cylinder tin. FIlter king has glass bowl so hoses will burn out much earlier than itself will melt. Seen also few cases that plastic filter has been under car in front of engine tin, where fuel line goes through the grommet. that is also way too hot spot to install it. I have used plastic ones clamped next to transmission or clutch line.
My thought was that there could still be pressure in the fuel hose even after the engine is switched off. I also checked the float if it had any fuel inside but was fine. You're right that its not advised to place a cheap plastic filter in the engine bay but the last comment is completely right that a filter king is fine to be fitted on the firewall. I've also seen plastic filters located scarily close to the exhaust near the gearbox that could subsequently melt. Thanks so much for your comments. Jamie
There seems to be more technical answers here than my mechanical knowledge, but I changed out my pump to a E10 rated one from Heritage. Two years on the trot in spring when putting the car ready for summer use, I had fuel in the sump and my fuel lines were all cracked, R9 as well! I’ve swapped out the lines and pump now and no issues, no cracking and no fuel in the sump for last 18 months. It doesn’t help your carb issue Jamie but I wouldn’t be surprised if the pump diaphragm has failed, this new fuel is an old cars nemesis.
Its crazy how the modern fuels eat through the hoses. I too have had to change mine and will make it priority every spring when my cars come out of storage to change them. Thanks for your comment. Jamie
Most market hoses here has already been changed to nitrile butadiene rubber at least inside surface is made from it. Outer layer can be from CR or same NBR as inner layer. Noticed that only ends oh those hoses will crack, and usually just from outside. So when installing new ones, leave few centimeters extra so you can cut 10mm at both ends every year to have clean look at least
@ that’s a great idea to leave them a little longer. I’ve noticed the same that the hoses start cracking at the ends👌🏼
Fuel pump has 2 rod sizes depending Dynamo/alternator check those sizes either 100mm or 108mm or plus fuel pump knackered
This I was unaware of and could be my solution. Much appreciated. Jamie
Jamie has generator model pump, which has longer rod, with shorter one it doesn't even pump. Alternator pump with generator pump shaft will break mounting flange when torqued. membrane swivel shaft doesn't have enough play for that lenght difference to even work.
If pump has around 7-9psi pressure, adding 2,5-3mm more gaskets under pump, will drop it to 2,5-3psi. 2.5psi is recommended pressure from factory to single carb set up
@ this is great thanks. Makes perfect sense. I’ll fit a gauge and plumb the king filter correctly in the spring and go from there. Will also change the bit off valve for original solex and do away with the Chinese one. Hope this solves the problem.
My 59 Deluxe has a fuel on off lever that I installed before the fuel filter,as I'm used to shutting off fuel on my HD, and this also works as a security device to some extent though not my only anti theft device employed. It's not a true fix in your case, but it could limit your problem until you work it out
Thanks for your comment. I was thinking of the same temporary solution until I get this sorted. It wouldn't also be a bad idea to have a fuel tap just in case a hose splits etc. Jamie
Bad inlet valve seat and/ or needle tip.
Thanks for the tip. Jamie
I had a cheap Chinese carburator that had 2 washers instead of one that prevented the float from cutting off gas intake that led to gas in oil and cost me a complete rebuild. I bought a better carburator. Peace
I've also learnt the hard way buying inferior cheap quality parts and have caused me problems and lots of wasted time. Sorry to hear yours led to an engine rebuild. Jamie
Fit an electric fuel pump. Problem solved
And pressure will be lot higher without adjusting it... so doesn´t solve anything. In stock engines electric pumps are just waste of money, with dual webers/dellortos those are basic need to feed carb. Even tho, stock typ3 dual carb fuelpump also feeds small capacity 1600-1700cc dualcarb engines just fine in road use. but in full throttle those wont fill bowl enough for long enough
Thanks for your comment but no need for an electric pump. Jamie
Mustie1 dude
Thanks. Jamie