Відео

I have almost the same car but with nimbus grey leather. Had it 3 years and still absolutely love it and have no plans to sell it! Such a beautiful design inside and out and to drive with the 6 speed manual box is sublime. More than enough grunt, handles well and suprisingly economical on a run - high 30 to 40 mpg. Big boot and glorious straight 6 lump. Whats not to like?!

Always lovely to see Dusty boy, hope he enjoyed his walk 🐶

Great little cars, my friend has an si coupe in a similar colour scheme and i have an early roadster. Brilliant road trip cars, suprisingly comfortable and sound glorious when you push themon a bit

If they are wired in parallel, how will you know if there is a failure?

It's worth checking the pressure from the rebuilt pump if you have access to an inline gauge and comparing it to what your carb is expecting. If the pressure is too high then fuel can push past the inlet valve on the carb - not such a problem with the engine running and a vacuum in the inlet manifold. However, after the engine is shut down the excess can run into the carb throat and leak out of the throttle spindle and blanking plug at the base of the carb and drip onto a hot engine. Eeek. The general internet advice is to stack more gaskets under the pump and effectively reduce the pushrod stroke. Rob & Dave's air-cooled advice pages disagree with this approach. They point to overly long and/or strong main pump diaphragm springs causing excess fuel pressure. You should be OK with Paruzzi kit but it's still worth checking for safety. I've been faffing with carbs and pumps for the last 2 days after installing a rebuilt pump from a respected source which I've had to back out due to the worrying drips after shutting the engine down. Good luck with the KG !

Same problem. Can i ask what is the insert size?

Well hello you great big tall stack of freaking sunshine. 😊 A new video! Love to see it.

Excellent and informative video as usual, thanks mate

Nice one Jamie, I’ve never seen or done that before,very informative. Looking forward to seeing that 123 timed, I’ll attempt mine after that😂

There’s some great replies there Jamie, hope you get it sorted soon, watching with interest 👍🏼

Nice car man. Repack the box with grease, not oil. Asjust the screw just until it snugs then lock it down.

Bought myself one 2 months ago. Automatic transmission though but I can not complain. Iteresting part is it's also 2007 and it was imported from Finland in 2018.

If you have a leak from the oil cooler seals the problem is probably not with the size of your oil pump. It's because of the way the cooler was installed and not seated properly, or one or both of your oil pressure relief valves are gunked up or stuck and not functioning correctly. On older cases there is only one pressure relief valve and we would use later model valves and springs to increase oil pressure at idle. You've got to make sure that the galleries where the relief valve plungers live are spotlessly clean or you'll have issues with them sticking. The other thing is what viscosity oil are you using? Back when the VWs were still being sold the recommendation was straight 30 weight oil for most climates, 20 or 10 weight for extreme cold or harsh winters, and 40 or 50 weight for extreme heat in summer. Now I believe that depending on climate that modern 10w-40 or 20w-50 is recommended. When I was younger I lived in South Florida where maintaining adequate oil pressure in the hot climate was always a problem with air cooled VWs regardless of engine displacement. I rebuilt dozens of VW engines and the first thing we would do was install a higher volume oil pump and later style relief valve plungers and springs, and convert to a dog house oil cooler like you did. This made them run cooler with better oil pressure when hot. If the pressure relief valves are doing their job correctly the larger oil pump will flow more volume of oil per minute, but the pressure won't be any higher at speed than with a smaller pump. The improvement is at idle and slow speeds. That's because the relief valves will send the access pressure back to the sump. If the spring(s) are too stiff that could also make the pressure too high. Make sure you have the correct plunger and spring in the correct place. They are different and mixing them up can be a problem too. When installing the oil cooler you have to make sure that the mounting surfaces of the case and the cooler are perfectly clean and smooth. Use a mild solvent for cleaning and a fine grit sand paper to smooth up the surfaces. Then use the Permatex Aviation Sealant that's designed for air cooled engines. Finally, check your oil pressure with a gauge, like you did, but hot, like after a long drive in traffic. As I said, if it's too high it's most likely that one or both of the two oil pressure relief valves are stuck or sticking. Too low then the springs are incorrect.

take the oil cooler and adaptor off, remove the studs and sand it on a glass with 400 grit like an intake surface, also remove the little stud from where it sits on the block and sand that pad down too with a block... check the edges deburr anything that looks like it can get hung up or make a gap; i put aviation permatex on the seals before installing them and use nylocs with flat washers to hold the adaptor/cooler down too;

There's an article in VW Trends mag summer 2024 that explains how to set up the oil pump. Enjoy the day Peace ✌

NPT, Also known as American National Pipe Tapered Thread. 👍

Is it still leaking oil from the oil cooler?

I've never seen that kind of fuel filter on a series. It looks a lot more effective than the inline filter I have.

Great video

Beautiful engine. Nice video

Did you have to pull the bearings out of the beam? Do you leave the insert that you knock out of the center inside the beam?

I have this problem on my VW type 4 engine. I might give this a try once I have the engine pulled

I finally bought an E86 3.0si manual a month ago, I absolutely love it! Adorable body shape IMO and feels like a proper drivers car, You climb into it and you sit so low! The N52 engine is a peach and sounds gorgeous and the ZF 6 speed box is a joy to use, The E86 was only produced for 2 years and people like me are waking up and smelling the coffee hence me getting one as prices IMO are not going to get any lower and they will soon be on the up! Mines a keeper, I am not ever getting rid unless drastic circumstances force me to do it, Also liked and subbed 👍

Nice video but one important step is missing and that is to bring the diaphragm on the correct tension by using a special tool known as VW328d.

I lost one of those ball bearings an i took apart a 3/8 craftsman ratchet an used the bearing from it .😂

Great video, can you tell me what size the copper washers are?

This has been really helpful thanks. I made the same mistake with the fuel filter and now have to bleed the whole system. Out of interest how long did it take to prime the whole system. I’ve been trying for about 15 minutes and gave up. Any help would be great.

You picked the right car, I've had my 2007 3.0si in ruby black over parchment leather/piano black interior for a few years now and love it. Easy to work on, looks fabulous and a great drive. Great travel blog guys!

Can you do this to raise.

This has been such a helpful video for me. Thank you!

Hi, which kid did you buy, the only one I can find by Empi has dropped spindles for a 1954 beetle.

Can you tell me what company have you used to arrange those plates? Thanks

Thanks a lot for this: I am about to do the same on an old resto / fixer-upper Here on KZN South Coast. EP 90 in Diffs and swivels too. Ill take a look at your other vids as well. Cheers.

Great car! No turbo problems, manual transmission, and hatchback makes sports car useable. And old enough to not have all the computer issues.The video was very interesting glimpse into a great journey.

Awesome trip Jamie❤and big respect to Matthias in Germany for the most pleasant purchasing experience 🫡

Looked like a fun adventure 😎

Citti was the place to fill a car's trunk with cheap wine and beer back in mid 90s and 00s...I hope it's still the same 😊

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Really interesting. I’ve never serviced one of those so it’s very informative. Looking forward to seeing the carb rebuild next!

Finally getting caught up watching your videos. Well done as usual buddy.

Hi Jamie Your Videos are Brilliant as always I finally got My Misfire fixed by Myself on Monday so much of it would not have been possible without watching Your channel I am really pleased with Myself actually and at times I did think What have I done and would have wanted to chuck it of a Cliff but at the same time I Love the Old Girl but I have also now found a slight Oil Leek that becomes apparent when I rev the Engine for a good While . This Video is also Very Helpful as I cant Find Garages in Belfast that want to Touch it and I am Really Looking forward to the next Episode I have never taken an Engine out Yet and I must admit That Scares Me . Wishing You Good Luck wit fixing Your Oil Leek I know You can do it . Best Regards Chris

If you keep it in a garage with other cars then it might just be marking its territory.

If it’s not leaking then it’s out of oil 😂 Use grease on both sides of the cork valve cover gasket and they won’t leak. Oil pressure is pretty high, rule of thumb at operational temp, 10psi per 1k rpm. Change to a lighter oil and retest. Cheapest and easiest thing to do.

That's a really helpful video - thank you!

That thing under the float chamber is temperature compensation system for the accelerator pump. Under the other plug in the float chamber is the main jet. Would be good idea to remove that and clean it and the passage. The washer under the float valve affects to fuel level in float chamber. Fuel level is important for the carburettor to work properly, so you should use the original one (if the old one was original in a first place). To my knowledge that washer should be 1.0mm for 31 PICT 4, but that may vary according to the different versions of 31 PICT 4 (type number in the base flange)

21mm pump is for a 40 horse engine. 26mm is stock for a 1600cc. And a 30mm will work just fine, the pump is not causing a leak.

The leak being on top of the block is the oil cooler seals. Just make sure you use the appropriate seals; there is two styles: one for the earlier style and one for the later doghouse style. Some advise to use just a smidge of shellac or Permatex Aviation Sealant around them. You can use the same on the pushrod tube seals. Another useful tip is putting sealant under the washers at the 4 cylinder head nuts that are inside the valve cover under the rocker shafts. That prevents oil seepage from under those that is reflected at the bottom of the head and drips over the J tubes or heater boxes. Also in my opinion the best valve covers are the stock ones with the cork gaskets. Just make sure to use grease on the gaskets and make sure the head and valve cover are spotlessly clean. Re the oil pump size 21 mm sounds small; I suggest 26 mm. Oil weight should follow the factory recommendation for the climate zone the car is operating at. Finally; if your oil smells like gasoline the diaphragm of your fuel pump is toast; you might need to replace the pump. In that case make sure to use the appropriate rod length to the type of pump; there are several lengths available.

Oijoi, the brown beauty behind you. I can’t take my eyes off that one!

If that pump is a 30, it’s a bit too much, 26 Schadek should be better, not sure about going to the early 21 ? Looking forward to seeing the new update to this