Don't quote me, but metalic ink pigments, usually brass for gold and aluminum for silver, tend not to fit in the cells of anilox rolls. This creates problems like weakness of color and build-up on the blades, including back-doctoring. You might ask you ink supplier about the size of the pigments in your ink. Anilox cell openings vary from about 100 microns for high-volume rolls, down to 23 microns for process rolls.
Thank you, big help i wished I was here when you were still active but if possible and anyone sees this, I get that the mark andy blades have the angled tip for the 30 degrees, but for some colors my facility uses long life blades which are kinda gold looking or bronze or something, but those don't have an angle already in them. So would those be bad blades to use then? Just sorta wondering if we've been wasting our time using those. Sorry if this is a dumb question I'm sorta new to the printing game only got 3 years
You're welcome. I'll be curoous about your tech's comments. It's very common to see the plugging you're seeing with the metallics. Think of the heavier layer on the surface; it makes sense for it to build up. It's a headache for everyone. I know folks with high-tech everything, and they have challenges. You might find some comments about it on my forum at FlexoExchange. Feel free to join us.
Never print a true metallic ink with a doctor blade. This will shave off the pigment particles which will give it a lustre. try to use a rubber roll system.
Don't quote me, but metalic ink pigments, usually brass for gold and aluminum for silver, tend not to fit in the cells of anilox rolls. This creates problems like weakness of color and build-up on the blades, including back-doctoring. You might ask you ink supplier about the size of the pigments in your ink. Anilox cell openings vary from about 100 microns for high-volume rolls, down to 23 microns for process rolls.
Thank you, big help i wished I was here when you were still active but if possible and anyone sees this, I get that the mark andy blades have the angled tip for the 30 degrees, but for some colors my facility uses long life blades which are kinda gold looking or bronze or something, but those don't have an angle already in them. So would those be bad blades to use then? Just sorta wondering if we've been wasting our time using those. Sorry if this is a dumb question I'm sorta new to the printing game only got 3 years
You're welcome.
I'll be curoous about your tech's comments. It's very common to see the plugging you're seeing with the metallics. Think of the heavier layer on the surface; it makes sense for it to build up. It's a headache for everyone. I know folks with high-tech everything, and they have challenges. You might find some comments about it on my forum at FlexoExchange. Feel free to join us.
good
Information: Outstanding. Sound quality: very difficult to understand. It would be so much better to film this in a quiet room.
Glad you like it, 4min. I agree with the sound statement, and that's why I call it "Ugly"! :)
Please do let me know, where can i buy this boneometer
Never print a true metallic ink with a doctor blade.
This will shave off the pigment particles which will give it a lustre.
try to use a rubber roll system.
Distracted!!!