The advice she gives at 3:40 about having one way of doing things and sticking with it-I’m a big no on that. Have a toolbox of skills and knowledge, and apply your judgment about what’s going to work best at a given anchor. They aren’t all configured the same-bolts may be placed closer or further apart, or offset vertically; if you’ve got two bolts with longish chains, maybe you’ll just clip a master point biner through the ends of the chains and not need to use any slings at all; sometimes there’s a bolt missing and you need to improvise some gear; sometimes there are no bolts at all and you need to build a trad anchor; and then, in many situations there’s a lot to be said for building a rope anchor. There’s no one size fits all solution to the endless variety of anchor configs and other circumstances that may inform your approach. Telling folks to just know one thing really well and stick with it isn’t setting them up for success.
Also, a PSA: the way they rigged the rap with the Gigi is a no-no according to Kong. You’re supposed to clip the eye of the device to your belay loop or rap extension not the blocking biner. The way they’re doing it, the device isn’t even connected to the climber in any way. Only the rope is. There are weird scenarios where that can go bad.
As someone who attended this course, I can provide a bit of extra context here. Emilie is super knowledgeable and has those tools in her toolbox, and also discussed the fact that not every anchor will look the same, and that sometimes you need to utilize different methods. Her point was to try and follow the same system as best as you can, and to make your belay stations look like that as much as possible, so that you can use the system you have practiced repeatedly to help you be more efficient. Ultimately, if it looks different, then you utilize your other skills that you have. Ultimately we would have learned those other skills and evaluated those other situations had this been a full course. Emilie said the course she taught in that one day is normally taught over the course of a few days, so it's hard to cover every situation in 6-8 hours.
That is not how you rappel with a gigi! You have almost no friction the way it is set up at 6:47. If you are gonna teach other people, at least do it right and check the manufacturer’s website…
Professional courtesy here. If that is a girth hitch to a master point carabiner, just use a quad, or an over hand on a bite. With two bolts, a quad seems to be standard these days for a lot of reasons.
In the US...in Europe its definitely not. Bolts are placed more spaced out here, so the quad is usually too short or needs to be extremely bulky to carry.
« Professional courtesy » that ignores there are different standards depending on where you live on earth 😂 - and that there might be reasons for them to exist ;).
@@rackhamlerouge Silly human... two bolt anchors are two bolt anchors...And girth hitch masterpoint is never redundant if one side fails. I guess they make them out of alien metals from a few galaxy's away... Ah... Now I get it. That would explain a girth hitch masterpoint then. It must work with alien metal two bolt anchors instead of Earth made ones... Now I see your logic... Shucks... Great clarification. Thanks!
@@chadrambo1038 there are many other valid solutions than quad that solve the problem you point out with the girth hitch, not saying quad is lame but not the single truth, as always with alpinism (I’m sure a professional like you is aware of that). In France French guides are trained with different methods, never seen them doing a quad, we do something a bit lighter and valuable, with good arguments. Your definite tone just made me smile, didn’t mean to be rude buddy, just enjoy the rock and keep an open mind ;).
@@rackhamlerouge Thank you, and keep enjoying the rock as well. I definitely agree. In alpinism, all bets are off on one way is best. I use it all. As the HowNot2 guys usually put it... It's all usually super good enough.
The advice she gives at 3:40 about having one way of doing things and sticking with it-I’m a big no on that. Have a toolbox of skills and knowledge, and apply your judgment about what’s going to work best at a given anchor. They aren’t all configured the same-bolts may be placed closer or further apart, or offset vertically; if you’ve got two bolts with longish chains, maybe you’ll just clip a master point biner through the ends of the chains and not need to use any slings at all; sometimes there’s a bolt missing and you need to improvise some gear; sometimes there are no bolts at all and you need to build a trad anchor; and then, in many situations there’s a lot to be said for building a rope anchor. There’s no one size fits all solution to the endless variety of anchor configs and other circumstances that may inform your approach. Telling folks to just know one thing really well and stick with it isn’t setting them up for success.
Also, a PSA: the way they rigged the rap with the Gigi is a no-no according to Kong. You’re supposed to clip the eye of the device to your belay loop or rap extension not the blocking biner. The way they’re doing it, the device isn’t even connected to the climber in any way. Only the rope is. There are weird scenarios where that can go bad.
As someone who attended this course, I can provide a bit of extra context here. Emilie is super knowledgeable and has those tools in her toolbox, and also discussed the fact that not every anchor will look the same, and that sometimes you need to utilize different methods.
Her point was to try and follow the same system as best as you can, and to make your belay stations look like that as much as possible, so that you can use the system you have practiced repeatedly to help you be more efficient. Ultimately, if it looks different, then you utilize your other skills that you have.
Ultimately we would have learned those other skills and evaluated those other situations had this been a full course. Emilie said the course she taught in that one day is normally taught over the course of a few days, so it's hard to cover every situation in 6-8 hours.
The academy vids are so sick. Definitely makes me want to book for next year!
Glad you like them! And yes every year it gets better and better
I prefer locking carabiners in the anker.. but thanks for this video... any tutorial is appreciated.
The way you tied that clove hitch around 1:45 was impressive. At least I hope it was a clove hitch otherwise I look silly for pointing it out. 😬
What is that with some climbers. Always think they know better. 😅 Thanks for the video! Was fun to watch.
That is not how you rappel with a gigi! You have almost no friction the way it is set up at 6:47. If you are gonna teach other people, at least do it right and check the manufacturer’s website…
❤
Professional courtesy here. If that is a girth hitch to a master point carabiner, just use a quad, or an over hand on a bite. With two bolts, a quad seems to be standard these days for a lot of reasons.
In the US...in Europe its definitely not. Bolts are placed more spaced out here, so the quad is usually too short or needs to be extremely bulky to carry.
« Professional courtesy » that ignores there are different standards depending on where you live on earth 😂 - and that there might be reasons for them to exist ;).
@@rackhamlerouge Silly human... two bolt anchors are two bolt anchors...And girth hitch masterpoint is never redundant if one side fails. I guess they make them out of alien metals from a few galaxy's away... Ah... Now I get it. That would explain a girth hitch masterpoint then. It must work with alien metal two bolt anchors instead of Earth made ones... Now I see your logic... Shucks... Great clarification. Thanks!
@@chadrambo1038 there are many other valid solutions than quad that solve the problem you point out with the girth hitch, not saying quad is lame but not the single truth, as always with alpinism (I’m sure a professional like you is aware of that). In France French guides are trained with different methods, never seen them doing a quad, we do something a bit lighter and valuable, with good arguments. Your definite tone just made me smile, didn’t mean to be rude buddy, just enjoy the rock and keep an open mind ;).
@@rackhamlerouge Thank you, and keep enjoying the rock as well. I definitely agree. In alpinism, all bets are off on one way is best. I use it all. As the HowNot2 guys usually put it... It's all usually super good enough.