RAM TRUCK GAS CAP LOOSE HOW TO FIX ERROR P0456 or P0457
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- Опубліковано 14 жов 2024
- How to fix GAS CAP LOOSE Error P0456 and or P0457 on a RAM TRUCK and get rid of the check engine light issue on my 4th GEN RAM1500 pickup truck with the 5.7L HEMI engine. Loose gas cap turned on, then the CEL check engine light. There is an evap small leak and an evap large leak. I show the repair and what to look for first to solve this problem.
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This is the part I used
amzn.to/2N18rxB
#RAM #Truck #Repair
DO NOT CLICK THIS!!! / bigdaddyshouse
In todays world this has to be said.......
Disclaimer: Due to factors beyond the control of "I" or big daddy's house, I cannot guarantee against improper use or unauthorized modifications of this information. "I" big daddy's house assumes no liability for property damage or injury incurred as a result of any of the information contained in this video. Use this information at your own risk. "I" big daddy's house recommend safe practices when working on vehicles and or with tools seen or implied in this video. No information contained in this video shall create any expressed or implied warranty or guarantee of any particular result. Any injury, damage, or loss that may result from improper use of these tools, equipment, or information contained in this video is the sole responsibility of the user and not "I" big daddy's house. This video is for entertainment purposes only. Full tutorial!
The shake test is not how you determine if this module is faulty. You test it for an open/closed circuit. It should be "open" with no vacuum or pressure present. With the module disconnected from the vehicle and in the upright position, connect your multi-meter probes to the two pins in the connector. Set your meter to Resistance w/sound and cause a vacuum on the small tube and then a pressure on the large port using your mouth with light pressure. You should hear the internal parts move when you have enough pressure and vacuum. If your meter doesn't beep for both then the module is bad.
So true I bought three mopar and all rattled hahaha
So, my new part rattles. I haven't installed it yet because of that. I'm leary because of this video, saying it is bad of it rattles. Am I good to install??
Well, I just bought one and yeah, the rattle crap is misleading. I bought because I've already changed the gas cap, and vapor solenoid, so hopefully this takes care of it.
@@fredkeele6578 how it worked?
I love how there was no unneeded bullshit. You stayed to the point and didn't ramble on about some stupid irrelevant shit. Good job.
I watched this video today. Bought the part for 26.00 at oreillys. Installed it in my driveway. Good video. Fixed my truck. Thanks
What was the part called
I bought mines but its still came on the gas cap on the dashboard
This was the quickest fix I’ve done on my truck. This video was great straight to the point and showed visuals!
You are very good at how you present the information and troubleshooting. I enjoyed the humor, but more the visual guide, and even how to remove the items.
Thank you so much I keep on buying gas cap and nothing never changed until I found your videos life saver
Glad it helped Ryan.
Thank you I’m just a girl with her truck and my stupid gas cap light kept coming on so bought new gas cap but kept coming on so followed your video and was able to do it myself and it’s fixed 👍thanks for sharing ❤
Took me longer to crawl under the truck than to take it off and shake it lol. Thank you so much for this video.
Fixed my problem and the shake test proved correct! Thank you!
You rock, I'll let you know if it fixes the problem. I watch your vid, ordered the part and then put on truck.
Hey bro, Had this Issue with my 2015 1500, YOU ARE A LIFE SAVER! Couldn't find anywhere with the info. $40 and a few mins I'm the gutter (Jack Gave out 😂) and I'm good to get emissions cleared away tomorrow. Thanks again for a quick and easy to follow vid
This worked like a charm! I really appreciate you putting this video together!
Replaced a week ago all went fine no more error on screen and today it came back
Just changed mine today, it’s been 9 months just wondering how yours is doing now?
Great video.... really appreciate the camera view as just describing is not enough for me. When the snow melts, I'll take mine out and see if it rattles.👍
Came here after changing cap, evap solenoid, and code still comes on. Took my evap valve off and rattles like yours. Will be changing tomorrow, and hopefully the gas cap letters on my odometer screen goes away also
did it work??
Legit Big Daddy, your best video yet! Quick and Easy to understand content esp to the everyday person with excellent editing effects per usual, you go boy!!! #RamsesPop
Thanks for the compliment! It took 10 hours to edit that thing. Glad to hear you enjoyed it.
Another great video love your content look forward to seeing new videos
Thanks brother, I appreciate the feedback.
How long does it take the code to clear? I have this issue and the duralast part seems to rattle. Confirmed this with a different autozone that had the same part.
Thank you very much for this video just replaced this on my truck and fixed my problem. Gracias amigo.
Just bought 2 new ones and both rattle, only difference is the old one has a sound like broken stuff when holding the plunger inside. The new ones rattle as well but when holding the plunger there's no broken sound.
Are the new ones supposed to rattle as well?
The shake test is not how you determine if this module is faulty. You test it for an open/closed circuit. It should be "open" with no vacuum or pressure present. With the module disconnected from the vehicle and in the upright position, connect your multi-meter probes to the two pins in the connector. Set your meter to Resistance w/sound and cause a vacuum on the small tube and then a pressure on the large port using your mouth with light pressure. You should hear the internal parts move when you have enough pressure and vacuum. If your meter doesn't beep for both then the module is bad.
Thank you man that was it first thing it was that thank you man appreciate it keep doing you’re doing a great job
Exactly my problem. 2016 Dodge Ram.
Replaced cap (with a dodge manufacturer) and evap valve. Check engine light and cap light still on. How long did it take for everything to reset?
Try to do what he demonstrates in this video, or get a obd-2 scanner autel brand is good you can get a used one.
Same with me, did you ever get a solution?
Thank You Sir, am waiting for the part to arrive.
Thanks for the video and explanation, take care blessings.
Is it the same for 3.6L and 5.7L
Another great video.
Thanks brother.
Did what you said, but the new one rattles! There is a cylinder that slides back and forth so not sure if the old one was actually bad.
Mine did rattle as well, the new one. But I replaced it and it fixed the check engine light. I wonder if the oring was leaking. the old oring was flat. looked more like a flat washer..I might check the old one with the new oring just to see if that was the problem.
Was it??@@Robert-vv9yg
@@MechanicWelder94 I apoligize. I can't remember
What happens if the new part rattles as soon as you buy it from auto zone? 😳
I just bought mine brand new, Duralast brand from auto zone and it rattles so maybe those do? Did it fix your issue?
The shake test is not how you determine if this module is faulty. You test it for an open/closed circuit. It should be "open" with no vacuum or pressure present. With the module disconnected from the vehicle and in the upright position, connect your multi-meter probes to the two pins in the connector. Set your meter to Resistance w/sound and cause a vacuum on the small tube and then a pressure on the large port using your mouth with light pressure. You should hear the internal parts move when you have enough pressure and vacuum. If your meter doesn't beep for both then the module is bad.
The shake test is not how you determine if this module is faulty. You test it for an open/closed circuit. It should be "open" with no vacuum or pressure present. With the module disconnected from the vehicle and in the upright position, connect your multi-meter probes to the two pins in the connector. Set your meter to Resistance w/sound and cause a vacuum on the small tube and then a pressure on the large port using your mouth with light pressure. You should hear the internal parts move when you have enough pressure and vacuum. If your meter doesn't beep for both then the module is bad.
this was life changing! so helpful!
Lol, thanks man
For anyone curios this also applies to Dodge Durango's (My 2013 at least) same replacement part number and all. Just gotta get it through wheel well instead under the fabric.
I did shake test on new on and it rattled did I get a faulty one?
I got that gas cap off message but no DTC codes. I'll have to give this thing a check. thanks
I changed my gas cap and the leak detection valve and my light is still on it’s been 2 days could you help me cause I don’t want to keep throwing parts at it also was I supposed to grease the o ring that can with the valve?
I'm having the same thing. I changed the can now the cap light is on truck won't start when it does it idles terrible
Love the Ant Man helmet my buddies got one it's got built-in headphones and a microphone in his that looks like the same one
Bought two of these from local NAPA store and one from Amazon…both from NAPA rattled when I took them out of the box. Amazon delivered a none rattler and just installed. Replaced fuel cap also. Light remains on…hoping it goes off tomorrow. Thanks for the info.
Any luck? I did the same thing. Check engine light turned off, gas cap light stayed on. Today check engine light is back on.
My Napa one also rattled. Did the code light eventually turn off
The one i got from auto zone rattled as well and a month later my gas cap and check engine light popped back on.. ordered a new 1 so hopefully it doesnt sound like a baby rattle..
I've got the same problem I put two on also any new ideas yet?
The shake test is not how you determine if this module is faulty. You test it for an open/closed circuit. It should be "open" with no vacuum or pressure present. With the module disconnected from the vehicle and in the upright position, connect your multi-meter probes to the two pins in the connector. Set your meter to Resistance w/sound and cause a vacuum on the small tube and then a pressure on the large port using your mouth with light pressure. You should hear the internal parts move when you have enough pressure and vacuum. If your meter doesn't beep for both then the module is bad.
Worked! Thank you.
Problem solved Great Video!!
Excellent to the point video
Thank you - this was exactly what I needed
I have a 13 ram 1500. Replaced fuel cap and evap valve, light still comes on. Upgraded my fuep tank to a 32 gal now because it was pumping at the gas stations. New fuel tank solved the fuel pump issue but gas cap light continues to come on. Possible charcoal canister?
What does this issue cause the truck to do improperly? I understand how to fix it but is the only issue the light on the dash or will it effect performance, gas mileage, or gas leaks?
I got the p0456 code on my truck and when I give it gas I hear a whistling noise any thoughts on that?
Does the check engine light cause a sort of limp mode? I just replaced my gas cap this is next. Truck is definitely running lean. Maybe the engine light or maybe caused by the leak. Either way thanks for video.
I have a 2017 dodge ram truck. gas cap light on and after driving it when parking it i smell fuel so this is the problem?
Good afternoon, I hope you can help me with this issue, I got the same message and code and I replaced the Evap Valve, lights went out but after a few weeks the engine light came again with code P0455, I was wondering if you have replace the purge valve or something else to fix this code, thank you in advance
Got the gas cap light on. Bought new gas cap & avap valb installed (new) & it’s still showing up. Anyone know what else to do? Should I just remove it with the computer?
I replaced mine and still get that same annoying light on my 2014, it seems like it does it when the full tank gets to around 3/4 full….suggestions ?
Just had it replaced and my gas cap is still on will it go off bye itself?
Hey William, the system runs checks periodically and it will eventually go off once it sees that it's working.
For my fuel cap light, I think it took two to three days before it shut off and it took about 2 weeks for my engine light to shut off.
hope this helps
Thanks for watching brother
Ok thank you
Hey you ask what video you could make how about resetting the windows it seems like they are alway messing up in the winter more then the summer thank you I have 2016 Dodge Ram big horn .
Had two payments left had two sell no one could get the engine light on or the gas cap just makes me sick
Weren't the codes just an EVAP leak?
Hey thanks so much! That was my issue!
Worked like a charm🙏👌
It worked, thank you maaaan
After changing the valve and clearing the codes out, I still had to disconnect the ground from the battery for about 5 minutes before the light went off
I have purchased two of these and they were rattling brand new out of the box. installed one anyway and my gas cap error was gone, but just for a short while and the error message is now back. I wished this would have worked.
My set up is different I have a 2015 lamarie 1500 my gas cap light on and I watch few videos and my under truck is different from the trucks I seen on UA-cam videos
What if you change this part and the light is still on, even after disconnecting the battery for 10 mnts?
Thank you
This is the part I used for my 4th gen Ram 1500.
amzn.to/2N18rxB
THANK YOU SIR!
fixed it, Thank you
FIxed mine by unhooking the battery and hooking it back up.
edits go hard
I bought a new evap valve one and it rattles exactly like your old one is that bad??
The shake test is not how you determine if this module is faulty. You test it for an open/closed circuit. It should be "open" with no vacuum or pressure present. With the module disconnected from the vehicle and in the upright position, connect your multi-meter probes to the two pins in the connector. Set your meter to Resistance w/sound and cause a vacuum on the small tube and then a pressure on the large port using your mouth with light pressure. You should hear the internal parts move when you have enough pressure and vacuum. If your meter doesn't beep for both then the module is bad.
Check those tubes, a squirrel chewed a hole in mine right over the fuel tank!
Thanks
Cant find the link to the part brother
My gas cap light is back on after changing that part and purge valve. Not sure what to do now
Same here. Not sure what the fix is and I need it now cuz I have to pass emissions in 2 days. So fing stressed over this small but huge problem
@@triviumrocker1986
Disconnect the battery
I changed that & the purge and it still on & the cap keep coming loose
Wait I bought the new part and it rattles ?
The shake test is not how you determine if this module is faulty. You test it for an open/closed circuit. It should be "open" with no vacuum or pressure present. With the module disconnected from the vehicle and in the upright position, connect your multi-meter probes to the two pins in the connector. Set your meter to Resistance w/sound and cause a vacuum on the small tube and then a pressure on the large port using your mouth with light pressure. You should hear the internal parts move when you have enough pressure and vacuum. If your meter doesn't beep for both then the module is bad.
Thanks bro
How soon until the ligh goes off I installed this and about 15 miles and a few on and off and mine cleared?
Has to go thru a drive cycle, keep driving!
I had the same thing but I change the gas cap first and the light went off so I did not buy the other part
Do you know where I can buy that piece without the rattle l got the same issue?
He pin the website in the comments
The shake test is not how you determine if this module is faulty. You test it for an open/closed circuit. It should be "open" with no vacuum or pressure present. With the module disconnected from the vehicle and in the upright position, connect your multi-meter probes to the two pins in the connector. Set your meter to Resistance w/sound and cause a vacuum on the small tube and then a pressure on the large port using your mouth with light pressure. You should hear the internal parts move when you have enough pressure and vacuum. If your meter doesn't beep for both then the module is bad.
@@troyperezsr i think everyone gets it, you dont need to comment the same thing 100 times. go outside
I bought one and my new one rattled like your old one.. im guessing my check engine light will be coming back on..
The shake test is not how you determine if this module is faulty. You test it for an open/closed circuit. It should be "open" with no vacuum or pressure present. With the module disconnected from the vehicle and in the upright position, connect your multi-meter probes to the two pins in the connector. Set your meter to Resistance w/sound and cause a vacuum on the small tube and then a pressure on the large port using your mouth with light pressure. You should hear the internal parts move when you have enough pressure and vacuum. If your meter doesn't beep for both then the module is bad.
@@troyperezsr thank you.!
What about P0463 2017 RAM 1500?
Can I still drive it with the gas cap light on?
Your engine light will come on next, like mine did.
@@abelcerrillo2162 lucky it turned off
Changed part and gas cap. Still showing code and light is still on
310-218 is the part number I found.
I replaced that unit. Both the old and new one rattle
I am also confused cause some say it should rattle, and some don't
@@nasseralfeteisi1489 the new one rattled plenty. I think the vacuum sucks up the loose piece in there to trigger the switch
The shake test is not how you determine if this module is faulty. You test it for an open/closed circuit. It should be "open" with no vacuum or pressure present. With the module disconnected from the vehicle and in the upright position, connect your multi-meter probes to the two pins in the connector. Set your meter to Resistance w/sound and cause a vacuum on the small tube and then a pressure on the large port using your mouth with light pressure. You should hear the internal parts move when you have enough pressure and vacuum. If your meter doesn't beep for both then the module is bad.
Found it in 2 mins. Shake and bake baby
Put two of those on did not work lights still on
Might have slit in Evap lines
Then why does a new one rattle.
did this and the code is still showing
I just bought my my part and it already rattles
The shake test is not how you determine if this module is faulty. You test it for an open/closed circuit. It should be "open" with no vacuum or pressure present. With the module disconnected from the vehicle and in the upright position, connect your multi-meter probes to the two pins in the connector. Set your meter to Resistance w/sound and cause a vacuum on the small tube and then a pressure on the large port using your mouth with light pressure. You should hear the internal parts move when you have enough pressure and vacuum. If your meter doesn't beep for both then the module is bad.
The new one rattles as well…
The shake test is not how you determine if this module is faulty. You test it for an open/closed circuit. It should be "open" with no vacuum or pressure present. With the module disconnected from the vehicle and in the upright position, connect your multi-meter probes to the two pins in the connector. Set your meter to Resistance w/sound and cause a vacuum on the small tube and then a pressure on the large port using your mouth with light pressure. You should hear the internal parts move when you have enough pressure and vacuum. If your meter doesn't beep for both then the module is bad.
Is that towards the front or rear of truck?