Concentrate on the vast majority of positive comments. There will always be a smart Alec who thinks they know best but you do great work and it's entertaining, as well!
Always good to see a repair. Too much stuff is thrown away these days - we need more people who are willing to have things repaired, and more people who can do the repairs. It is the original form of recycling and minimizing consumption of raw materials. Also - awesome approach. When I looked at the part at the start of the vid, I paused it. Thought through how I would do it, then watched. I'd have done it pretty much the same way - so that gave me a bit of a boost first thing on a Saturday. Cheers!
This is a great show from an old tool maker apprentice ( 1964 to 1968 ). Please keep up the great work with the apprentice programs. Even if the CNC machining will outdo the old matching way, the apprentice programs will still teach great matching and shop experience.
@@TopperMachineLLC If you need 10 of something CNC is fine. If you need one or 2, you need a machinist like Josh. There are few left and you are lucky if you have accesses to one.
Nice work saving that trunnion mount and saving the customer a fortune. That was a good idea center drilling the ends, so that if the job ever comes back again later, you have the centers there already. With odd repairs like this, customers can rely on you to get the job done for them. It's good to be able to repair things rather than having to replace them. Wherever possible, I try to fix what I have whenever it's possible with replacement being a last resort if something is beyond repair.
Customer is always right and all, but I'd think in this case a weld up and turn would be better than making the trunions even smaller than they already are worn for strength.
I find jobs like this fascinating, these are what machining is about for me...fixing those parts that often are irreplaceable.... #Anchorlube seems great but I don't think I can get it easily in the UK so I use neatsfoot oil, which works very well for me, I think i saw it in an old book somewhere...might have been someones great grandmachinist that mentioned it to be honest, but its a good one Always good to help people out.
Great repair Josh! I always love seeing and learning different ways to fix, repair, or manufacture something! You have become one of my “new never miss an episode” creators! Keep up the good work!
I sure hope the folks at #AnchorLube are taking care of you. I never heard of them before you brought them up, and you faithfully promote the product in nearly every video.
If you use a spot drill you won't get the drill bit flopping 1:41 around drilling oversized. Spot drill is way better. 142 degree Keep up the good work, I enjoy watching it.
Well done repair Josh. Great to see parts that are repairable actually repaired. When managing a stamping plant toolroom we always designed to allow repair/salvage of sections to avoid waste and excessive costs. Other plants with our "family" spent on large spare sections and never looked for smart economical solutions. Just throw money down the drain. So hats off keep up the great work!
Josh I always love your repair videos. Someday i would like to see you make a video of the correct way to use measuring tools. I actually mean more than just how to read a micrometer but the techniques of measuring. Examples taking measurements while still in the lathe chuck or on the mill table and also any kinds of set up measurements you might like to include. May be a good lesson for Connor as well. As always thanks for bringing us along. As we all know making chips is the easy part of machining. Hitting the numbers and good workflow/set-up etc. is the part that separates us all from the cave dwellers.
Good fix there Josh, steady work and well executed as always, bit of a bum twitcher when that 1st sleeve went on mind you, thanks for sharing and best wishes
Really looked like the bushing was not hot enough, red about halfway. .005 is a tight fit. The old press was up to the task. Not criticizing just my $.02.
Sometimes it takes that kind of heat, tight is key on these. Especially when the sleave is that thin. I have done probably a hundred of these kind of repairs and none have ever failed.
Nice work Josh. I was expecting to see the trunnion to be harder. Looked almost like mild steel. I agree with your customers decision to sleeve the trunnion shaft. Thanks for sharing the process. Have a good evening.
Great video - I cannot believe how quiet that lathe is - my colchester master sounds like a sack of spanner down a staircase compared to that - amazing as that looks like a vintage machine.
I think it's a 1944 or 45. Monarch was the best of the best. I really never liked anything else I've ever ran. And I've worked on a lot of different lathes.
@@rupert5390 The Monarch is probably twice the weight and all that extra iron soaks up vibration and therefore the noise better. Plus everything inside that headstock will be larger than in the equivalent size Colchester, which makes a big difference.
I can not believe that you were able to fix that part and save the customer money. I thought that the damage was beyond repair. I am glad that you were able to make the sleeve, press it on and mill to size. It is always good to watch you work. I wish I had good health and a skill. Thanks for the video and your willingness to share with others. I am always looking forward to seeing what you will fix next. Say HI to Rocky, he is a good dog.
Nice cost effective repair, not sure why the negative comments on reducing diameter, ref strength, a single shaft of diameter 25mm has a shear value of 40,000 kgs, it would need some crazy high hydraulic pressure to excert 2 x 40,000 kgs in that sized cylinder. Remember, if pin diameter was too small, it would be difficult to lubricate, ref high force over small area (Stress)
Good morning, Josh. 😊 Very nice repair, but every time a press fit, whether heated or cooled with LN2, I get really nervous watching the bushing go on, especially when it grabs and doesn't drop right down on the shaft! LOL Thanks for another excellent video.
Hi Josh, When you put that 1st sleeve on... my pucker factor went on overload.....wooooo...that was a close one...the 2nd one you were making sure.....LOL....thinks we are gonna have to take out stock in Anchor lube, is about all I use now.....been a crazy week here...will text ya...Excellent vid and camera work, they keep getting better nd better....When is Connor leaving? Stuart and I agree wholeheartedly. Don
At 17:57 I need to know what that bearing came off of on the floor I have a few laying around and would like to get a idea and btw I love the channel hope all is well and god bless
@@TopperMachineLLCthat’s cool you should show that off one day people will like that and if you had to remake a part like that what would be your material of choice
I would have turned down the badly damaged end of the trunion first, to the minimum size needed to clean it up, then made the sleeves to that size. The big issue with this type of repair in this application is the reduced strength of the smaller diameter connecting into the trunion.
@joeculver7489 I can't remember how many times I've said this to myself. I DO have a small UA-cam channel and I don't tell people they're wrong because there are multiple ways and reasons why someone chooses their path to the finish line.
Josh, another good video, thank you for your efforts in recording. Sigh, not intending to be critical, however I found it a little confusing when you mixed SI with English/US customary, while I can make some equivalencies, switching back and forth was not helpful.
@@TopperMachineLLCl’m the opposite. Learned machining in metric and sometimes need to convert inch to metric. Lived many years in South Africa now in Pennsylvania.
@@TopperMachineLLC From a metric country - Australia, and also old enough to well and truly know imperial sizing, old "banana" measuring has had its day, although if you don't have metric metrology then you use what you have. It's all about getting it right, by which ever measurement system you have at hand. But I am surprised more commentators have not arced up about your description of metric sizing.
I see and have done many universal joints in heavy equipment. In my early days, a universal joint was around thirty or so dollars. Now that same joint is around seven hundred and some are much more. All said and done, if your running say a thousand trucks on the road, a good many joints are replaced for minimum wear yet will go out if left unattended. Those joints are already center drilled for grease or oil so centering this joint would save some time and money. It might only save say fifty dollars on a joint repair but if you have say two hundred joints that only need fifty a fifty dollar saving.... worded wrong but hoping you are able to figure out what I mean. So if you save only fifty dollars on a joint but you have say two hundred joints that are repairable... that would come to ten thousand dollars, and to a poor man, or not even a poor man but a guy who knows dollar saved is a dollar earned, ten thousand dollars would make the price of greasing those joints a bit cheaper as well. Great video, I never learned really all the ways of using a lathe but really should of taken time to learn how.
Josh has the Anchor lube ever given you any rust problems on parts or the machines. I have been wanting to try it but herd mixed openions on the rust it may cause. Enjoyed the video and a very good aproach to fixing the problem with a sleve.
The only rust I've had was from thinning with water for mist coolant. I tend to clean up quickly after a job so I don't have trouble. But no real rust issues.
I think I’ve counted 3 lathes that you own(may be more?). I think two monarchs and one import? Whats your reason for using one particular lathe over the other on a project that would fit the swing of all the lathes?
Not hating, but why Anchor lube instead of flood coolant for drilling/reaming? seems like you'd want more chip evacuation/coolant to prevent heat buildup/lubricity on those inner operations
What did you use to make the sleeves? Really enjoy your channel, as I'm still learning, but do a lot of similar work repairing old/obsolete parts for heavy equipment/farmers/etc.
@@TopperMachineLLC It part had to be stress relived, other exact dimensions/face alignment/flatness in the trunnion would have changed. Josh's method of repair means those other factors do not change.
I am just curious have you personally had a welded trunion job fail? I have worked at a hydraulic repair shop for 9 years and we have welded up 100s of trunions and have never had a return for failure.
I have had more rework come in from other shops doing weld repairs on things like this. Their failures prompted a different approach for me. With zero failure rate on my repairs, I think this is the best solution. Though I may be wrong.
Besides saving the customer a ton of money, there is the issue of getting the replacement part in a timely manner.....some of the lead times are for parts is months.
Only way to improve that would be to weld the sleeves to the block so they'd be structural. I like that green lathe. It's the perfect combination of silent working and clunky actuation. Like big, sharp, well oiled detents. Very satisfying.
@@TopperMachineLLC i wouldn't think it would come off, I was just thinking of adding more shear strength to it. Most all of the unforseen destruction we ever had involving rams in the sawmill and on the farm has been in the mounting hardware, so always thinking of ways to make it more solid than before we broke it.
Bad idea to cut those trunnions down only makes them weaker. I understand it was a customer request but i wouldnt do it for liability reasons . Good video though sir
Yes slightly weaker, but likely the cylinder runs a lot of motion, not a lot of load, and the wear was because of the bearing blocks being seized for a long time, so the ears turned in the bearings. Thin wall sleeves are a very common repair method, here the ear just got 10% machined off diameter, and if it was that loaded that 10% wear was going to snap it it would already have broken with the gouges it had.
@@SeanBZA exactly my thoughts, however..just a another minute to mig in those deep wear marks would’ve been my move.. nothing perfect, just fill it on.
Same concern here, looks perfect and good job on machining but no connection between sleeves and block Possibly heavy chamfer on sleeves and weld to block before turning down
@@TopperMachineLLC I agree about the welding stress . ive remade those blocks several times . Like i say if the customer is happy thats all that matters .
The crane is not a paying job and not the focus of the channel. Repairs are being done as time allows, and filmed as I go on it. The primary focus of the channel is the machine shop.
It is extremely worn, not wore. Simple past: it or it was wore out. Adjective: it is worn adjective affected by wear; damaged by long use “worn threads on the screw” “a worn suit” “the worn pockets on the jacket”
Show us your perfection in your workshop and we'll all think about what you might have to say. Otherwise what are you doing looking at Josh's videos - other than to pick holes - even minor ones. Question. Does improved grammar improve the quality of the work done?
I’m not a machinist, I’m just a fan of what you do. I had a quick question and maybe I missed it in the video. The ID of those bushings seem to be off center making one side thin, at least how they appeared to me. Is that going to make them wear unevenly? Not trying to dig on you but any means, I am just trying to understand the process. Love your content.
My family owned and operated a hydraulic machine shop for over 30 years and dad always told me we are a repair shop not a replace shop, nice work.
Right on
Don’t waste your time on the Haters. Keep doing good work making money while they sit back and watch you! Keep up the great work…
Concentrate on the vast majority of positive comments. There will always be a smart Alec who thinks they know best but you do great work and it's entertaining, as well!
Always good to see a repair. Too much stuff is thrown away these days - we need more people who are willing to have things repaired, and more people who can do the repairs. It is the original form of recycling and minimizing consumption of raw materials. Also - awesome approach. When I looked at the part at the start of the vid, I paused it. Thought through how I would do it, then watched. I'd have done it pretty much the same way - so that gave me a bit of a boost first thing on a Saturday. Cheers!
Glad you liked it, and I agree. We need more people doing things like this.
The other reason you do work like that is because its fun and you make money while the customer save money.
This is a great show from an old tool maker apprentice ( 1964 to 1968 ). Please keep up the great work with the apprentice programs. Even if the CNC machining will outdo the old matching way, the apprentice programs will still teach great matching and shop experience.
CNC will never replace my services. There will always be a need for quick turnaround, low volume work that just isn't possible with CNC.
@@TopperMachineLLC If you need 10 of something CNC is fine.
If you need one or 2, you need a machinist like Josh.
There are few left and you are lucky if you have accesses to one.
@@1978garfield I actually turn down quantities over 25 PCs often. That's the magic number for me.
Nice work saving that trunnion mount and saving the customer a fortune. That was a good idea center drilling the ends, so that if the job ever comes back again later, you have the centers there already. With odd repairs like this, customers can rely on you to get the job done for them. It's good to be able to repair things rather than having to replace them. Wherever possible, I try to fix what I have whenever it's possible with replacement being a last resort if something is beyond repair.
It is amazing how many of life's problems can be solved with a cutting torch.
Customer is always right and all, but I'd think in this case a weld up and turn would be better than making the trunions even smaller than they already are worn for strength.
I find jobs like this fascinating, these are what machining is about for me...fixing those parts that often are irreplaceable.... #Anchorlube seems great but I don't think I can get it easily in the UK so I use neatsfoot oil, which works very well for me, I think i saw it in an old book somewhere...might have been someones great grandmachinist that mentioned it to be honest, but its a good one
Always good to help people out.
There is a distributor in the UK now. He is a viewer and will hopefully read your comment.
Snowball Engineering in the UK uses Anchorlube, so ask him.
@@TopperMachineLLC Double boost as well.
Nice save, Josh. That's not just a quick job--that's a repeat customer. See you in the next one! Cheers.
Thanks 👍
Nothing really to say just an obligatory algorithm boost for the channel. Keep up the good work. 👍👍
Great repair Josh! I always love seeing and learning different ways to fix, repair, or manufacture something! You have become one of my “new never miss an episode” creators! Keep up the good work!
Once again, nice work. I am wary of welding parts like this. Just too many unknowns.
I've seen too many fail that were welded.
18:03 It will help if you had the sleeve on a piece of fire brick or other refractory material to keep the arbor plate from drawing the heat away.
It would help
I sure hope the folks at #AnchorLube are taking care of you. I never heard of them before you brought them up, and you faithfully promote the product in nearly every video.
They do, and I use Anchorlube almost exclusively. I have even been experimenting with using it as a mist coolant. So far, it is very promising.
If you use a spot drill you won't get the drill bit flopping 1:41 around drilling oversized.
Spot drill is way better. 142 degree
Keep up the good work, I enjoy watching it.
You do such awesome work Josh, just never get tired of watching someone so good at what they do.
I appreciate that!
Well done repair Josh. Great to see parts that are repairable actually repaired. When managing a stamping plant toolroom we always designed to allow repair/salvage of sections to avoid waste and excessive costs. Other plants with our "family" spent on large spare sections and never looked for smart economical solutions. Just throw money down the drain. So hats off keep up the great work!
Thanks 👍
Great job 👍
Josh I always love your repair videos. Someday i would like to see you make a video of the correct way to use measuring tools. I actually mean more than just how to read a micrometer but the techniques of measuring. Examples taking measurements while still in the lathe chuck or on the mill table and also any kinds of set up measurements you might like to include. May be a good lesson for Connor as well. As always thanks for bringing us along. As we all know making chips is the easy part of machining. Hitting the numbers and good workflow/set-up etc. is the part that separates us all from the cave dwellers.
Nice work sir ❤😊
Good fix there Josh, steady work and well executed as always, bit of a bum twitcher when that 1st sleeve went on mind you, thanks for sharing and best wishes
Really looked like the bushing was not hot enough, red about halfway. .005 is a tight fit. The old press was up to the task. Not criticizing just my $.02.
@charleskutrufis9612 Yeah cherry red is extremely hot for expansion IMHO, turned out good though
Sometimes it takes that kind of heat, tight is key on these. Especially when the sleave is that thin. I have done probably a hundred of these kind of repairs and none have ever failed.
@TopperMachineLLC Thanks Josh, I didn't doubt your result 👍🏻
Question about sequence of operation. Why make the sleeves before turning down the stubs?
Nice work.
Hi Josh & it's is Randy and i like yours video is cool & Thanks Josh Friends Randy
This is a great video, very straightforward repair and yet very technical.
Nice work Josh.
I was expecting to see the trunnion
to be harder.
Looked almost like mild steel.
I agree with your customers decision to sleeve the trunnion shaft.
Thanks for sharing the process.
Have a good evening.
Thanks!
Thank you!
JOSH I think it was a very economic way to fix it and I think your customer will be well pleased nice video keep up the good work😊
Thanks 👍
I've done a couple of these in my time.. I use inner bearing races where possible.
Great video - I cannot believe how quiet that lathe is - my colchester master sounds like a sack of spanner down a staircase compared to that - amazing as that looks like a vintage machine.
I think it's a 1944 or 45. Monarch was the best of the best. I really never liked anything else I've ever ran. And I've worked on a lot of different lathes.
Colchester's are often noisy runners.
@@dutchgray86 don't get it a 1945 monarch (thats Second World War) sounds better than n a 1989 or so Colchester - I guess ill wear earplugs.
@@rupert5390 The Monarch is probably twice the weight and all that extra iron soaks up vibration and therefore the noise better.
Plus everything inside that headstock will be larger than in the equivalent size Colchester, which makes a big difference.
I like the old Monarch lathe.
I can not believe that you were able to fix that part and save the customer money. I thought that the damage was beyond repair. I am glad that you were able to make the sleeve, press it on and mill to size. It is always good to watch you work. I wish I had good health and a skill. Thanks for the video and your willingness to share with others. I am always looking forward to seeing what you will fix next. Say HI to Rocky, he is a good dog.
...nothing wrong with being a spectator...
@@daleburrell6273 Thanks!!!! I love watching others do great things with the gifts that God has given them.
@Josh, Saturday always brings something juicy to my timeline, thanks a ton
Glad to hear it!
Do it right the first time. Thanks for the video keep on keeping on.
Why did you bore the sleeves first? Wouldn't you want to know how much you had to take off the shafts first? Not criticizing, just curious.
I measured the wear and figured what I wanted from there. Way easier to turn the OD than the ID. Especially on something that small.
Nice cost effective repair, not sure why the negative comments on reducing diameter, ref strength, a single shaft of diameter 25mm has a shear value of 40,000 kgs, it would need some crazy high hydraulic pressure to excert 2 x 40,000 kgs in that sized cylinder.
Remember, if pin diameter was too small, it would be difficult to lubricate, ref high force over small area (Stress)
Simple minds can't comprehend, thats what I think the negative comments are about.
Nice repair Josh 👍👍
Making money and saving money its a win win!
That’s a nice sharp drill 👍
Well done
Is that large vernier caliper temperature compensated? Amazing at how accurate the measuring tools themselves are, and the lathes/mills.
Josh, I can tell from here in Florida it is getting warm out in Spooner,
you have your Summer Haircut rockin' .....Best Wishes.....Paul
Definitely getting warmer
Good morning, Josh. 😊 Very nice repair, but every time a press fit, whether heated or cooled with LN2, I get really nervous watching the bushing go on, especially when it grabs and doesn't drop right down on the shaft! LOL Thanks for another excellent video.
Me too. I wish I could use LN2. It's just something not readily available here.
Nice repair Josh.
This was an interesting job and I enjoyed watching how you went about doing this, thankd
Hi Josh,
When you put that 1st sleeve on... my pucker factor went on overload.....wooooo...that was a close one...the 2nd one you were making sure.....LOL....thinks we are gonna have to take out stock in Anchor lube, is about all I use now.....been a crazy week here...will text ya...Excellent vid and camera work, they keep getting better nd better....When is Connor leaving? Stuart and I agree wholeheartedly.
Don
Thanks Don. Conner leaves right after graduation. End of the month.
That's a very nice repair
Thanks for sharing good repair
I like to chill the smaller part also. Every little bit helps.
If I wasn't on a time crunch for this one, it would have gone in the freezer overnight
Nice work big dog
Love the press fits. If I had to do press fits, it would give me fits. :)
I thought the reamer would have cut to size being as long as it was.
At 17:57 I need to know what that bearing came off of on the floor I have a few laying around and would like to get a idea and btw I love the channel hope all is well and god bless
That was a bearing I replaced years ago on a feller buncher. I kept it for the balls as they would work in my cannon.
@@TopperMachineLLCthat’s cool you should show that off one day people will like that and if you had to remake a part like that what would be your material of choice
I would have turned down the badly damaged end of the trunion first, to the minimum size needed to clean it up, then made the sleeves to that size. The big issue with this type of repair in this application is the reduced strength of the smaller diameter connecting into the trunion.
Thank You Sir, Always enjoy your videos.
To all the haters, please list you youtube channels so I see you be perfect! Oh you don't do one do you.
Exactly.
I thought i was having a stroke while reading this comment.
@joeculver7489 I can't remember how many times I've said this to myself. I DO have a small UA-cam channel and I don't tell people they're wrong because there are multiple ways and reasons why someone chooses their path to the finish line.
The trunnions that worn. What's the saddles look like?
No idea. Didn't get to see that. But it's spherical bearings on the trunnions, so it's probably fine.
I run a horizontal boring mill and never use reamers. If its a tight tolerance, I always bore it.
They have their place. Knowing where and when to use them is key to profit or loss.
As a non-machinist I was wondering: when would you use Loctite in a situation like this? Thanks.
If you made a super sloppy fit and don't want to fix it. Locktite repairs are never acceptable. I don't even own any.
@@TopperMachineLLC I get it. Thank you.
Thank youJosh!
hi there nice job john
Does the jaw pressure make any marks on the sealing surface
No, because the surface i chucked on was not a sealing surface. Even if it was, I'd use an aluminum shim. I really wasn't clamping super tight.
Josh, another good video, thank you for your efforts in recording. Sigh, not intending to be critical, however I found it a little confusing when you mixed SI with English/US customary, while I can make some equivalencies, switching back and forth was not helpful.
Unfortunately, I have to convert "deer turds" (Metric) to Sae so it measures out for me. I have no deer turd measuring tools.
@@TopperMachineLLCl’m the opposite. Learned machining in metric and sometimes need to convert inch to metric. Lived many years in South Africa now in Pennsylvania.
@@TopperMachineLLC From a metric country - Australia, and also old enough to well and truly know imperial sizing, old "banana" measuring has had its day, although if you don't have metric metrology then you use what you have. It's all about getting it right, by which ever measurement system you have at hand. But I am surprised more commentators have not arced up about your description of metric sizing.
It seemed normal to me, in the UK it helps to be bilingual if you've got older machines 😄
I see and have done many universal joints in heavy equipment. In my early days, a universal joint was around thirty or so dollars. Now that same joint is around seven hundred and some are much more. All said and done, if your running say a thousand trucks on the road, a good many joints are replaced for minimum wear yet will go out if left unattended. Those joints are already center drilled for grease or oil so centering this joint would save some time and money. It might only save say fifty dollars on a joint repair but if you have say two hundred joints that only need fifty a fifty dollar saving.... worded wrong but hoping you are able to figure out what I mean. So if you save only fifty dollars on a joint but you have say two hundred joints that are repairable... that would come to ten thousand dollars, and to a poor man, or not even a poor man but a guy who knows dollar saved is a dollar earned, ten thousand dollars would make the price of greasing those joints a bit cheaper as well. Great video, I never learned really all the ways of using a lathe but really should of taken time to learn how.
Josh has the Anchor lube ever given you any rust problems on parts or the machines. I have been wanting to try it but herd mixed openions on the rust it may cause. Enjoyed the video and a very good aproach to fixing the problem with a sleve.
The only rust I've had was from thinning with water for mist coolant. I tend to clean up quickly after a job so I don't have trouble. But no real rust issues.
I think I’ve counted 3 lathes that you own(may be more?). I think two monarchs and one import? Whats your reason for using one particular lathe over the other on a project that would fit the swing of all the lathes?
Preference and size. This part was small and using the monarch was better than the Lion. I may be selling the little monarch soon.
Not hating, but why Anchor lube instead of flood coolant for drilling/reaming? seems like you'd want more chip evacuation/coolant to prevent heat buildup/lubricity on those inner operations
Mess. It is all about the mess. I don't want coolant everywhere.
What did you use to make the sleeves? Really enjoy your channel, as I'm still learning, but do a lot of similar work repairing old/obsolete parts for heavy equipment/farmers/etc.
1018, nothing special
Could you have tig welded the bad trunion
If I wanted a possible fracture point, yes. Welding causes brittleness, that would have to be stress relieved.
@@TopperMachineLLC It part had to be stress relived, other exact dimensions/face alignment/flatness in the trunnion would have changed. Josh's method of repair means those other factors do not change.
100k give away?
what is the material? why not weld build up and machine back down? other than customer request?
Sleeving this is the correct way. Welding requires far more steps, including a stress relieving heat treat.
I am just curious have you personally had a welded trunion job fail? I have worked at a hydraulic repair shop for 9 years and we have welded up 100s of trunions and have never had a return for failure.
I have had more rework come in from other shops doing weld repairs on things like this. Their failures prompted a different approach for me. With zero failure rate on my repairs, I think this is the best solution. Though I may be wrong.
Is something wrong with the King? You haven’t used it in a while.
You mean Lion. And no, it is just not suited for every job. I still prefer some jobs on the monarch
seems like the metal you are turning is very soft steel
Nope. Just the right tools for the job.
@@TopperMachineLLC i meant the original metal not the replacement you could tell the parts you made seemed harder
@@le3045acp gotcha. Yeah definitely not as tough of material, but tooling makes a big difference too.
@@TopperMachineLLC oh i agree tooling makes a huge difference
Im assuming this is one of those jobs that the placement of the 2 ends doesnt matter as much as they are straight to each other.
I believe I said that in the video. Spherical bearings
What do you do with your chips and other discards?
recycle
Besides saving the customer a ton of money, there is the issue of getting the replacement part in a timely manner.....some of the lead times are for parts is months.
if even possible to get anymore.
Listen process cylinder trunnion mount repair friends
Morning
Did you have to stone lap the sealing surface where the 4 jaw marred it with the teeth? Or were those two divots there at the start?
That was not a sealing surface. Sealing takes place inside the groove.
Oops sorry I called in the middle of your set up.
one hour after posting 1300 views. Not too shabby for 8 AM Eastern time.
Definitely getting better with each video.
more action per hour than a Guy Ritchie blockbuster
Only way to improve that would be to weld the sleeves to the block so they'd be structural.
I like that green lathe. It's the perfect combination of silent working and clunky actuation. Like big, sharp, well oiled detents. Very satisfying.
I'll never weld one. Sweat it on tight and no problems.
@@TopperMachineLLC i wouldn't think it would come off, I was just thinking of adding more shear strength to it. Most all of the unforseen destruction we ever had involving rams in the sawmill and on the farm has been in the mounting hardware, so always thinking of ways to make it more solid than before we broke it.
geez a guy askes one question and a whole video comes about lol
7:00 you need a tail stock chuck
I have one, wouldn't have done me much good on this job.
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Bad idea to cut those trunnions down only makes them weaker. I understand it was a customer request but i wouldnt do it for liability reasons . Good video though sir
Yes slightly weaker, but likely the cylinder runs a lot of motion, not a lot of load, and the wear was because of the bearing blocks being seized for a long time, so the ears turned in the bearings. Thin wall sleeves are a very common repair method, here the ear just got 10% machined off diameter, and if it was that loaded that 10% wear was going to snap it it would already have broken with the gouges it had.
@@SeanBZA exactly my thoughts, however..just a another minute to mig in those deep wear marks would’ve been my move.. nothing perfect, just fill it on.
Same concern here, looks perfect and good job on machining but no connection between sleeves and block
Possibly heavy chamfer on sleeves and weld to block before turning down
Welding could have added fatigue points. Sleeving is the acceptable repair for this.
@@TopperMachineLLC I agree about the welding stress . ive remade those blocks several times . Like i say if the customer is happy thats all that matters .
That’s using your noggin
You're bullshiting around with these videos. When you you getting back to the Crain videos.
The crane is not a paying job and not the focus of the channel. Repairs are being done as time allows, and filmed as I go on it. The primary focus of the channel is the machine shop.
It is extremely worn, not wore.
Simple past: it or it was wore out.
Adjective: it is worn
adjective
affected by wear; damaged by long use
“worn threads on the screw”
“a worn suit”
“the worn pockets on the jacket”
Ok Grammer nazi. Find something better to do with your life.
@@TopperMachineLLC ,Brilliant reply .
@@TopperMachineLLC Amen Josh...Amen !!!!!!!
Show us your perfection in your workshop and we'll all think about what you might have to say. Otherwise what are you doing looking at Josh's videos - other than to pick holes - even minor ones. Question. Does improved grammar improve the quality of the work done?
Perfect reply Josh 🤣😂🤣
I’m not a machinist, I’m just a fan of what you do. I had a quick question and maybe I missed it in the video. The ID of those bushings seem to be off center making one side thin, at least how they appeared to me. Is that going to make them wear unevenly? Not trying to dig on you but any means, I am just trying to understand the process. Love your content.
I think that must have been an optical delusion. They were quite centered.
😂 ok then, guess I’m deluded.
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