David. Good and important topic. I would include in this discussion the inspection of the metal sealing area for each of the o-ring seals. The inside seat of the posts, the lid and inner seat of the lid, the PRV seat surface. Inspect for damage on the dip tube flare. You are so right that proper maintenance of equipment is very important.
The best way I've found to remove the outer post o-ring is the "squeeze and push" method, without tools. Place your thumb and forefinger on opposite sides of the post, on the o-ring. Squeeze firmly and push/slide your fingers forward along the direction of the o-ring while applying firm pressure. One side will lift out of the groove... grab it with your other hand and remove. It's easy, uses no tools, and is frustration free!
Doing this while wearing nitrile/latex exam gloves works well, especially if you need to protect your hands from PBW or sanitizer that makes my skin die and fall off.
Hi David, as always you got it right on the spot and also with a perfect timing. As a beginner I was bottling all my brews so far, but in the near future I want to start kegging, too. And your video answers many open questions to me, thank you.
Thank you very much for your continuously EXCELLENT output and knowledge sharing - you're a an absolute rockstar of the homebrewing scene. WIth that much needed praise out of the way a possibly silly seeming question: what's the best way to lube o-rings? Do you put a little bit of H1 grease on your finger and just "roll" the ring through your fingers? Do you apply it with a cloth? How do you go about it to ensure the entire surface of the o-ring is covered but you're also not applying too much? Thanks in advance for any best-practice insights shared.
Thank you, much appreciated :) You do not need to use much. Personally I use a clean finger to apply it visually checking that it is covered. Adding too much is no an actual issue, just a waste is all :)
Nice vid. I find gas disconnects wiggle on the the kegland gas/multi posts, leaking gas every time it is lightly knocked or touched. Ever heard of this ? Doesn't happen with my older corny posts. I guess lubing might be the answer?
The gas post is different from the liquid post and the QDs require the correct post in order to seal correctly. The gas post generally has a cut or line in the metal to differentiate it from the liquid post. You can see the difference in this video at 6:13 and 6:37.
Thank you for another great video focused on the most important basics. My method is to connect my three lines and faucets with various adapters and run rinse water, then pbw and then dilute sanitizer using my pump and a small reservoir. Then I remove the faucets to soak a few minutes in pbw. When a keg kicks I rinse the line with water and sanitizer. You have convinced me to convert to liquid line cleaner for the thorough cleaning. I had a strange and scary thing happen last night. I pulled a glass of pils which had turned amber. Eeek! Subsequent glasses were back to the pale straw color and tasted fine. Do you have any idea what caused this? Somehow O2 got into the line? Thanks again and cheers!
I generally follow what you do for Ball locks, but I'm having a heck of a time getting poppets out from pin lock kegs. Also, most of my pin locks don't have a removable PRV. Perhaps you could do a follow up video on pin locks when you get a chance? Cheerz
Hiya, I’ve just replaced all my seals but the out post is leaking around the base, i have tightened the post as much as I can and it still leaks Any advice? Is thread tape appropriate?
@@DavidHeathHomebrew thanks for the response, all my kegs are the same I have very good gas to the john guest fittings but I am struggling to understand why my kegs aren’t carbing and then dispensing my beer from my corny kegs
I recently bought a ball lock aeb keg which doesnt have spring and poppet in the post. It seems there is some sort of metal tab up inside which puts pressure somehow. Have you heard of these?
Some old poppets have a snap in holder. They tend to wear out and can be replaced with a universal poppet. There may be a better way but they can be removed by pressing the poppet in with a narrow screwdriver or an awl and just forcing it out. Conversely they need to be forced back in with a narrow diameter hex head driver. It is a little dodgy.
@@TheGavranatar I hate cleaning but it is not worth it to cut corners, save 10 minutes and throw away 12 hours of hard work, 5 gallons of beer and the cost of ingredients. Like the man says, "Respect beer".
I have 6 kegs and the poppets don't fall out of the posts like that for any of them... They're all ball lock, but I can depress the poppet with post removed and it won't come out, what am I doing wrong??
Some old poppets have a snap in holder. They tend to wear out and can be replaced with a universal poppet. There may be a better way but they can be removed by pressing the poppet in with a narrow screwdriver or an awl and just forcing it out. Conversely they need to be forced back in with a narrow diameter hex head driver. It is a little dodgy.
Greetings, I change the gas post on my kegs 2 of them were leaking from the outer bottom part of the post with the new posts, I added the old post and it does not leak. How can this be fix ?
It seems like the leak is coming from the keg, the old post has a larger base since it uses a 22 wrench and covers the leak but the new posts are slimmer and a 17 wrench is used is there a way to seal this because I want to have new posts since the old ones barely do the job. I really appreciate your time and videos they are helpful.
@@DavidHeathHomebrew thanks for that quick response. I bought 2 refurb kegs and noticed the posts sizes and poppets were different. I'll have a closer look at threads, dip tubes etc.
@@gleamac The gas post is different from the liquid post and the QDs require the correct post in order to seal correctly. The gas post generally has a cut or line in the metal to differentiate it from the liquid post. You can see the difference in this video at 6:13 and 6:37.
NOOOOO EVERYONE shows the universal poppets instead of the standard ones with the damn spring feet on them. How about SOMEONE showing how to deal with them?!
Hiya, I’ve just replaced all my seals but the out post is leaking around the base, i have tightened the post as much as I can and it still leaks Any advice? Is thread tape appropriate?
David. Good and important topic. I would include in this discussion the inspection of the metal sealing area for each of the o-ring seals. The inside seat of the posts, the lid and inner seat of the lid, the PRV seat surface. Inspect for damage on the dip tube flare. You are so right that proper maintenance of equipment is very important.
Many thanks for your input Dennis. Yes, this is certainly an area that more attention is due. Problem avoidance rather than problem reaction.
A very clear and concise guide as expected! I am so glad that you made this as it highlighted some things that I was not aware of. Thank you.
Many thanks Alan. I hear from a lot of people with leaking issues that could easily be avoided with maintenance.
The best way I've found to remove the outer post o-ring is the "squeeze and push" method, without tools. Place your thumb and forefinger on opposite sides of the post, on the o-ring. Squeeze firmly and push/slide your fingers forward along the direction of the o-ring while applying firm pressure. One side will lift out of the groove... grab it with your other hand and remove. It's easy, uses no tools, and is frustration free!
Thanks for your input here Scott, sounds good :)
Yep i do this also
Doing this while wearing nitrile/latex exam gloves works well, especially if you need to protect your hands from PBW or sanitizer that makes my skin die and fall off.
Yes, its important to keep it sensible with such strong chemicals
@@DavidLuger are those things all that bad? I often dont wear gloves with starsan or sodium percarb cleaners
Very clear and useful. Although I have done this maintenance some times, I will no make it a habit every time I wash the kegs.
Great to hear Jan, thank you. Yes, that is a good habit to start.
Hi David, as always you got it right on the spot and also with a perfect timing. As a beginner I was bottling all my brews so far, but in the near future I want to start kegging, too. And your video answers many open questions to me, thank you.
Great to hear :) Kegging is for sure a great route to take.
Great instructions. Lube is ordered. Thanks.
Cheers Ronny 🍻🍻
Thank you very much for your continuously EXCELLENT output and knowledge sharing - you're a an absolute rockstar of the homebrewing scene.
WIth that much needed praise out of the way a possibly silly seeming question: what's the best way to lube o-rings? Do you put a little bit of H1 grease on your finger and just "roll" the ring through your fingers? Do you apply it with a cloth? How do you go about it to ensure the entire surface of the o-ring is covered but you're also not applying too much?
Thanks in advance for any best-practice insights shared.
Thank you, much appreciated :)
You do not need to use much. Personally I use a clean finger to apply it visually checking that it is covered. Adding too much is no an actual issue, just a waste is all :)
Nice vid. I find gas disconnects wiggle on the the kegland gas/multi posts, leaking gas every time it is lightly knocked or touched. Ever heard of this ? Doesn't happen with my older corny posts. I guess lubing might be the answer?
Thanks :) This can occur when o rings are needing to be replaced on the posts or when lube is not present to form a better seal.
Brilliant. Cheers!
Thank you 🍻🍻🍻
I learnt something as always ,thanks Dave 👍🏼
Great to hear Scott :) Cheers :)
Great information! Is there a difference between the posts?
The gas post is different from the liquid post and the QDs require the correct post in order to seal correctly. The gas post generally has a cut or line in the metal to differentiate it from the liquid post. You can see the difference in this video at 6:13 and 6:37.
Yes. They are very different as jkmarut mentions :)
Thank you for another great video focused on the most important basics. My method is to connect my three lines and faucets with various adapters and run rinse water, then pbw and then dilute sanitizer using my pump and a small reservoir. Then I remove the faucets to soak a few minutes in pbw. When a keg kicks I rinse the line with water and sanitizer. You have convinced me to convert to liquid line cleaner for the thorough cleaning.
I had a strange and scary thing happen last night. I pulled a glass of pils which had turned amber. Eeek! Subsequent glasses were back to the pale straw color and tasted fine. Do you have any idea what caused this? Somehow O2 got into the line?
Thanks again and cheers!
Thanks Janet. I think this was possibly some stuck trub that came out.
Thanks for the reply. I'm going with your trub theory.
Thanks Janet. It can happen :)
Nice Job! Perfect for Beginners!
Many thanks. I think many experienced keg users are probably guilty of neglecting maintenance also :)
I generally follow what you do for Ball locks, but I'm having a heck of a time getting poppets out from pin lock kegs. Also, most of my pin locks don't have a removable PRV. Perhaps you could do a follow up video on pin locks when you get a chance? Cheerz
Thanks. Where I live there are no pin locks, just ball locks. Covering them will be tough sadly.
@@DavidHeathHomebrew Hey, no worries David. Maybe someone else will give me some pointers. Cheerz
:)
Any info on the rubber top and bottom?
I bought some used kegs and the rubber rubs off on my hands and surfaces it stands on.
Yes, many do that sadly. Im not aware of a fix.
Hey David! Why do you need to fill with water when testing for leaks? Can't you just pressurise without?
Hi Rick. Sure you can but water is much cheaper than C02 :)
Good point well made.
:)
I am not familiar with a pre-made Korny Keg repair kit - are there available commercially or is it a DIY???
They are available in many homebrew stores and online.
@@DavidHeathHomebrew OK - thanks !!!
:)
Hiya, I’ve just replaced all my seals but the out post is leaking around the base, i have tightened the post as much as I can and it still leaks
Any advice?
Is thread tape appropriate?
Yes, try PTFE tape.
Can a post on the co2 in prevent it from carbing
No. It will not unless you have a leak.
@@DavidHeathHomebrew thanks for the response, all my kegs are the same I have very good gas to the john guest fittings but I am struggling to understand why my kegs aren’t carbing and then dispensing my beer from my corny kegs
Are you losing gas?
@@DavidHeathHomebrew it’s all sorted my co2 fittings are clogged and tried a new one and it worked
Great to hear Nick 🍻🍻
I recently bought a ball lock aeb keg which doesnt have spring and poppet in the post. It seems there is some sort of metal tab up inside which puts pressure somehow. Have you heard of these?
Some old poppets have a snap in holder. They tend to wear out and can be replaced with a universal poppet. There may be a better way but they can be removed by pressing the poppet in with a narrow screwdriver or an awl and just forcing it out. Conversely they need to be forced back in with a narrow diameter hex head driver. It is a little dodgy.
@@DavidLuger ok thanks for that. Do you know for cleaning is a soak in cleaner enough or do they need dismantled?
@@TheGavranatar I hate cleaning but it is not worth it to cut corners, save 10 minutes and throw away 12 hours of hard work, 5 gallons of beer and the cost of ingredients. Like the man says, "Respect beer".
Yes indeed :)
@@DavidLuger so i'm going to be popping these things out and in with a screwdriver every time to clean? I dont think they'll last long then lol
i use cc kegs that do not have pressure relief. but what on earth could i do wrong to make a keg explode? should i be considering buying new lids?
I personally would not use kegs without a PRV. If your regulator fails, for example or if a child changes the pressure.
I have 6 kegs and the poppets don't fall out of the posts like that for any of them... They're all ball lock, but I can depress the poppet with post removed and it won't come out, what am I doing wrong??
Keep pressing harder. Sometimes they get stuck.
Yes, press them or pull them harder :)
Some old poppets have a snap in holder. They tend to wear out and can be replaced with a universal poppet. There may be a better way but they can be removed by pressing the poppet in with a narrow screwdriver or an awl and just forcing it out. Conversely they need to be forced back in with a narrow diameter hex head driver. It is a little dodgy.
Greetings, I change the gas post on my kegs 2 of them were leaking from the outer bottom part of the post with the new posts, I added the old post and it does not leak. How can this be fix ?
Hmm. Could be a fault in the new post or one of the seals. I would give it all a check.
It seems like the leak is coming from the keg, the old post has a larger base since it uses a 22 wrench and covers the leak but the new posts are slimmer and a 17 wrench is used is there a way to seal this because I want to have new posts since the old ones barely do the job. I really appreciate your time and videos they are helpful.
Ahh ok. Well that sounds like posts that are not quite compatible with your keg type. There can be some variation.
Lid feat 🤯 thank you!
Thanks Bradley :)
Are the 17mm and 22mm posts interchangeable?
I believe that the threads are mostly the same but other areas of the design can vary, so this could cause issue. Best to test in store if possible.
@@DavidHeathHomebrew thanks for that quick response. I bought 2 refurb kegs and noticed the posts sizes and poppets were different. I'll have a closer look at threads, dip tubes etc.
@@gleamac The gas post is different from the liquid post and the QDs require the correct post in order to seal correctly. The gas post generally has a cut or line in the metal to differentiate it from the liquid post. You can see the difference in this video at 6:13 and 6:37.
Perhaps the supplier can hook you up with spares for both :)
My post is leaking I don’t know how to fix it
I would suggest replacing it if tightening doesnt help 🍻🍻🍻
I guess they don't sell that poppet kit in the states. :(
I would think that it is available :)
@@DavidHeathHomebrew hmmm. welp. I'm having trouble finding it. I'll have to make my own kit. Thanks for the tutorial. Great stuff.
No problem. You could import it here:- www.aliexpress.com/item/1005001314022624.html
@@DavidHeathHomebrew sigh... i tried that site yesterday... "Cannot import to the U.S.". But still, thanks.
Ahh ok, thats a pity :(
Huge 12psi "explosion"! Lol. Blow up the house with a 12psi keg!! 😂😂😂
You would never have a 12 PSI explosion. The point is that if pressure is allowed to build past the kegs maximum pressure then it can explode.
NOOOOO EVERYONE shows the universal poppets instead of the standard ones with the damn spring feet on them. How about SOMEONE showing how to deal with them?!
I guess this varies depending on where you are located in the world.
how did youtube know i spent 3 hours cleaning/ maintaining kegs last night ... ?
Haha, if only I knew :) I hope this was helpful :)
Hiya, I’ve just replaced all my seals but the out post is leaking around the base, i have tightened the post as much as I can and it still leaks
Any advice?
Is thread tape appropriate?
Yes, try PTFE tape.