On the Cub, the final drive is the same right and left, that is why one fill is in front and the other is rear. Where it really gets interesting, is when you have a Fast-Hitch, there is a lot to take off. I have a couple of extra Final Drives on a parts tractor, and thinking about drilling and tapping the cast housing for a check/fill, and welding a drain in the pan, probably on the side at the bottom, to see if it will work.
Just completed this on a 1951 Farmall Cub. On mine the check/fill plug takes a 3/8 ratchet. I used a quart squeeze bottle with nipple to fill reservoir. Put an old fashioned car jack in middle of drawbar. Loosen draw bar bolts and remove left side rear. Lower jack a couple notches and the drawbar flange will lower away to reveal the check/fill plug. If a Woods 59 belly mower is mounted remove the bracket covering the right side check/fill plug.. You may have to loosen the rear woods squeeze bracket bolt to get a socket onto the drawbar bolt. It took me longer to analyze the job than to do it. Took about 20 minutes total.
Thanks. It is difficult to have too much information. Not rocket science, but these are old tractors and everything needs maintenance. Great for gardening and small jobs around your “estate”.
Just a thought, if I was going through the trouble of changing this oil, wonder if it would be a big deal to bore and tap and drain plug to prevent from taking all that a part again?
As thin as the pan is, I don't think it would allow for enough threads. You'd probably want to weld a nut over the hole. I'd be too nervous about any modifications though.
on the final drive whats it used for,does the A have that also ,i do notice my left wheel has some sort of gear like a chain gear drive on it ,maybe it was for running a planter not real sure
Different implements were driven by the gear you have on your tractor. Check my videos for a video that I did on a Cole sidedresser. It was run off that gear.
There's an attachment that connected to the gear there. I forget what it was. But cubs normally don't have that cap because it would make it impossible to connect the attachment. Also, it's just not needed.
There usually isn't a cap there because it's for the drive sprocket for the planter attachment. I have had two Cubs and one had a cap and one didn't, which prompted me to go find the answer to that puzzler.. why one had one and both machines were just one year apart I'll never know.
On the Cub, the final drive is the same right and left, that is why one fill is in front and the other is rear. Where it really gets interesting, is when you have a Fast-Hitch, there is a lot to take off. I have a couple of extra Final Drives on a parts tractor, and thinking about drilling and tapping the cast housing for a check/fill, and welding a drain in the pan, probably on the side at the bottom, to see if it will work.
Just completed this on a 1951 Farmall Cub. On mine the check/fill plug takes a 3/8 ratchet.
I used a quart squeeze bottle with nipple to fill reservoir.
Put an old fashioned car jack in middle of drawbar. Loosen draw bar bolts and remove left side rear. Lower jack a couple notches and the drawbar flange will lower away to reveal the check/fill plug.
If a Woods 59 belly mower is mounted remove the bracket covering the right side check/fill plug.. You may have to loosen the rear woods squeeze bracket bolt to get a socket onto the drawbar bolt.
It took me longer to analyze the job than to do it. Took about 20 minutes total.
Thanks. It is difficult to have too much information. Not rocket science, but these are old tractors and everything needs maintenance. Great for gardening and small jobs around your “estate”.
Thanks this really helps because i was baffled not finding the plug on the side hidden by the draw bar.
I am glad I could help.
Great!! Just what I needed!!
Just a thought, if I was going through the trouble of changing this oil, wonder if it would be a big deal to bore and tap and drain plug to prevent from taking all that a part again?
As thin as the pan is, I don't think it would allow for enough threads. You'd probably want to weld a nut over the hole. I'd be too nervous about any modifications though.
Thanks so much for this video!!!!!!!
my next project. thank you
on the final drive whats it used for,does the A have that also ,i do notice my left wheel has some sort of gear like a chain gear drive on it ,maybe it was for running a planter not real sure
Different implements were driven by the gear you have on your tractor. Check my videos for a video that I did on a Cole sidedresser. It was run off that gear.
Thanks for the info
Very helpful thanks
Interesting that the bearing cap on the right final drive is still there. Most cubs don't have them.
There's an attachment that connected to the gear there. I forget what it was. But cubs normally don't have that cap because it would make it impossible to connect the attachment. Also, it's just not needed.
There usually isn't a cap there because it's for the drive sprocket for the planter attachment. I have had two Cubs and one had a cap and one didn't, which prompted me to go find the answer to that puzzler.. why one had one and both machines were just one year apart I'll never know.
Thanks so much sir
Is it the same amount of oil to fill it on a farmall b
@@Loganbodin I haven’t done this procedure on a “b”.
What kind of ratchet or socket do we use to loosen the final drive plugs so I can refill the oil?
1/2 inch ratchet or extension plug right into the plug. No socket is required.
My 1951 Farmall Cub takes a 3/8 drive ratchet.
Where do you add fluid for the hydraulic lift?
@@leebulldog87 on the side of the hydraulic unit under the hood.