Info for new Cub owners here. Restored several Cubs. ALWAYS check the filter drain tube for blockage. Found several that the tube was clogged solid. Old nasty oil may remain in the filter housing unless drained contaminating your fresh oil. Good video!
Excellent, thorough job. Certainly helps to have an organized shop. And I would expect nothing less from a Coastie Chief. Good teaching video also. Regards to you both.🚜🇺🇸
Must feel fantastic pulling up past the new barn! Some common parts and styles with my 1946 Farmall H. Maybe get a 5 gallon bucket of oil for the farm for a better price per quart. Best of luck on everything!
Dennis Roitt, Sr we love the new barn! Looking forward to getting the Surge stalls installed soon! I buy Rotella-T 15w-40 in 2 gallon jugs for my diesels, but for my one little gasser I just grab the quarts I need from NAPA.
I love the Mail box and IH patch on the coveralls ! Thank you for the oil change & lube procedures on the Farmall Cub . We spotted a Cub for sale last week with a Woods belly mower and probably gonna bring it home .
@@vnthomas16 Thank you and we bought it today ! $ 700 " non runner has set for two years " . Like I need another project LOL but this will be a fun one to put back in service !
Thanks for the video, have 2 1947 cubs and are in need of a little love. Just got done replacing all tires, rebuilding carb and flush fuel tank. All still run though, recently can’t get one of the cubs to get out of reverse and 3rd gear. I’ll have to pull the shifter and see what going on
You’re welcome! If you haven’t already, check out farmallcub.com . They have an excellent forum, and I would suspect someone can offer some advice for your shifter issue. Cubs are great tractors! Thanks for watching!
Great video - and much appreciated! I am just getting familiar with my 1955 Farmall Cub and this hepls me see what I've been reading in the Operator Manual. Would love to see a video of changing the Transmission oil.
When do you grease the throw out bearing? Can you order the access cover gasket in case it gets torn? Can’t find a part number. Guess I’ll have to cut my own? Thanks.
Cubs have brakes?!? Haha! Cubs are notorious for not having good brakes. They have a tendency to get oil on the linings. I’ve never actually done anything to my brakes, but if you’re looking for specific advice, I’d check out the forum at farmallcub.com. Glad you enjoyed the video! Thanks for watching!
@@vnthomas16 My 47 has "a" left brake and the right grinds horribly if applied. I just drive slow. ( as if i could drive fast..!) I"ve been applying your advise to my lubrication schedule. Thanks a bunch.
Sweet video. I did not know that's what the holes in the hood was for & the fan clutch. What sort of oil do you use in the Final Drives, Steering Gearbox and trans? Maybe the Rearend too?
Kyle H no rearend, but I believe the oil is all the same for the steering gear, transmission, and final drives. Don’t quote me since I’m traveling and don’t have my manual, but I believe it’s 80W90 gear oil. Thanks for watching!
You forgot the distributor shaft housing and the distributor drive housing. Remove the slotted plugs from each and screw in a zerk about 1/2 pump for the distributor shaft until grease comes out the small hole on the back side. The distributor drive needs about 3 pumps then replace slotted plugs.
Wendy Miller Thanks! We love our Cub! I buy Rotella-T 15w-40 in 2 gallon containers since everything else on the farm is diesel, but for my one little gas tractor, I just buy the few quarts I need from NAPA. Thanks for watching!
My 1948 cub is leaking hi-tran from the screw-off cap bellow the bell-housing. I removed the cap and it is empty inside. Do I need to refill it? I don't know. Or why is oil getting into the bellhousing?
I’m not that well versed as a Farmall Cub mechanic... But you might pose your question in the Farmallcub.com forum. Lots of knowledgeable folks on there who should be able to answer your question. Good luck!
Unless that 5 gal bucket had some oil in it already, It appears that you will need more than 3 quarts to refill it. It looks like you have about 3 gallons of oil in the bucket. Just a thought.
Richard Compton that waste oil bucket contains the oil of many machines! Not worth taking to town to recycle until it’s full. Almost there! Thanks for watching!
Should try to keep with the non detergent 30 weight or 15-40. The oil cup is fine with the light weight oil. The air filter element should be flushed if it has never been done. They get very clogged up and most of their life never get flushed. there is two ways to do this and both are messy. Remove the canister from the tractor and soak it in kerosene or whatever you have. give it a good shake. You will be surprised at the gunk that comes out. Second you can do it on the tractor, remove the air breather hat and the hose from the carb, and turn the extension hose away from the carb. remove the oil cup dump the oil and reinstall. Make sure the gasket is still there or the kerosene will pour out everywhere around the cup. REMOVE THE VAPOR HOSE from the engine block because we dont want fuel and crud flowing into the engine. pour kerosene or diesel down the intake tube until it flows out the extension tube. Give the tractor a good shake side to side let it sit for a moment and then pull the oil cup off. This will usually result in a huge mess. but all the crud will be flushed out. I recommend removing the element and housing from the tractor. Dont forget to blow the crud out of the vapor hose. 99% of the time they are completely clogged. I replaced mine with a clear poly hose so I can keep an eye on it.
Hello! You make some great points! Our tractor has been on a standard detergent-type oil for so long that it would be detrimental to go back. I think you could use just about any oil in that tractor, as the technology in oils has advanced so much since it was built, but we’ve had good luck with 10W-30. Summer or winter, the oil pressure comes right up where it should be as soon as she starts! Yes, kerosene is my go-to solvent for cleaning things like elements or bearing on the Cub. I love how simple that tractor is to maintain! She’s starting to show her age though, so some more intense maintenance may be in her future, but she certainly is a workhorse we depend on! Well built, simple, and strong! Don’t underestimate her low horsepower! Haha! Thanks for the comments and thanks for watching! Always happy to find another Cub fan out there! Just a great tractor!
Any chance of actually doing the finals for people to see? I have a 1952 I want to take the pans off, replace the gaskets and clean out the bottoms of the pans, and refill. A little nervous about doing it.
Yup, my final drives are due for an oil change this winter. It’s not particularly difficult, but it is very messy. The oil level is actually above the tops of the pans, so as soon as you start loosening the bolts, oil will run everywhere. Wear nitrile gloves, put plastic in the floor, and have some containers to catch what you can. If you have a fast hitch, it’s a bit annoying as the brackets are in the way. I don’t take my fast hitch off, but I do one side at a time, because if I took it all the way off, I’d probably forget how to put it back! Haha! Good luck!
Nice shop threads! Irma Harding would approve! Do you also collect IH hats? Saw an IH catalog once from the late '60s where they offered just about any hat imaginable with an IH logo.
I actually found your channel because of the Cub. I have a 1962. Do you have a link to the pages you printed from the manual? I use 10w30 as well, with some Motorkote. I've also seen some debate over whether or not you should use 3 or 4 quarts. When I first got my tractor, I changed all the fluids, but didn't know anything about the fan hub. It started making an awful noise recently and freaked me out. I oiled it and it's quiet again. Such a relief that was. I'm not sure about the older cubs, but my pedal pivots have grease fittings.
planejet42 definitely no grease fittings on my pedals! I bought my manual which is printed and bound from “Binder Books”, which specializes in reprints of IH literature. If you’re a member of Farmallcub.com (which I highly recommend) then you have access to scanned manuals, not only for the tractor but also implements. As you have figured out, IH did make minor changes to the Cub over the years, so you’ll want to find the manual closest to your date range. Thanks for watching!
I’ve never had that problem. I know it can happen to Cubs if a seal fails in the hydraulic pump. Pretty easy to diagnose though if suddenly your crankcase is over full.
@@vnthomas16 I found her and her dad's channel after searching Farmall cub. They only have like four videos I think I'm the cub, which surprises me, since they wrote the "encyclopedia"?? I guess they want to sell it to you.
bill porciello thanks for the comment! I just follow the owners manual. As per IH’s instructions, I put 3 quarts in and it’s right on the full mark on the dipstick. Thanks for watching!
huh? my eyes were closing then I heard get the oil out of the air filter and I woke up wondering wth? Now I know....how old is that tractor? I am surprised you can still find filters! Also, how is the mountain lion population where you are? Lots of sightings or none? I am eyeing land in Deer Park, seems like a nice place.
Steve I think oil bath filters are superior to paper elements. The tractor is a 1954. We live in the “wild” west, so there is plenty of coyotes, wolves, bobcats, and cougars to go around. Most predation involves pets and smaller livestock, but wolves occasionally take down cattle.
No need to prime the pump just for a oil change. Yes, it takes a few seconds to fill the filter housing, but the bearings and other important bits are still being lubricated. After a rebuild or if the tractor has been sitting a long time, priming the oil pump is definitely recommended! Thanks for watching!
Sorry to disagree on the oil you are using. The new oils have detergents, and can foam in the crankcase. You should be using a lead substitute in the gas, you can get at tractor supply. In Canada we have high test without ethanol I use that, because the ethanol damages old style gaskets and they deteriorate over time. Uae 50 weight non detergent oil if you wanted the old girl to have an extended life
Technology from those days when there was an expectation that equipment would, if serviced when required and used for its stated purpose, would last a lifetime. That expectation also included the user / owner performing that servicing. My other half cannot comprehend this theory. I recently bought a new car. It is the first brand new car that I've ever owned and will, in all probability, be the last car I ever buy. The only "user serviceable" items on it are gas and water - and only the water for the washers, the coolant is only ever topped up by the "service technicians", not some bloke in overalls. This is probably just as well as when I pulled the bonnet to refill the washer bottle, the engine bay contained nothing that I recognised as being part of a car's engine! UA-cam's algorithm keeps showing me vids of another "farming" channel where they constantly seem to be trashing [and replacing] new and, presumably very expensive, pieces of kit. I would doubt that much of what they are using / misusing will last out the next five years. I think you and they are horses in different races.
I love the older equipment. It’s so well built, that it’s pretty problem free as long as you use ample oil and grease! And, when you do have a problem, you can usually fix it yourself. I look at the engine in our new truck, and wonder why there are so many wires? Haha! Thanks for watching!
You never mentioned the distributor grease points which has two and you have to remove two plugs insert a zerk grade and remove them and reinstall the two plugs. Most people dont know they even exist. One is at front of distributor shaft and other one is at rear and above a little you willl see it. Needs greasing everytime you grease tractor zerks. Good Video otherwise.
Info for new Cub owners here. Restored several Cubs. ALWAYS check the filter drain tube for blockage. Found several that the tube was clogged solid. Old nasty oil may remain in the filter housing unless drained contaminating your fresh oil. Good video!
as far as oil go's what about the older tractors with babbit bearing ?? Just asking !!!
Excellent, thorough job. Certainly helps to have an organized shop. And I would expect nothing less from a Coastie Chief. Good teaching video also. Regards to you both.🚜🇺🇸
rich whitaker thank you! We don’t intend for our videos to be “how to”, but maybe someone can pick up a tip or two. Thanks for watching!
@vnthomas16 why not your videos be a how to ?? It make no damn logical sense ??
The more videos I watch of yours, the more skills I realize that you have and your knowledge is amazing. Mad respect.
Thank you. That means a lot. Mostly, we just learn as we go along, and try to not be afraid to keep an open mind and try new things.
I’m a fan of your KW. Thanks for the update.
You’re welcome! Thanks for watching!
Well done.. no messes! I've dropped my share of drain plugs into the bucket. For that reason, I have a magnet on a stick kept close by! Ha ha
Yeah... I've dropped a plug before. Haha! A magnet on a stick is very handy!
Your equipment will serve you well because you maintain it well. The ladies had to check out what you were up to.
Jeanne L thanks! It’s well built, so with good maintenance I should see many more years of service from it. Thanks for watching!
Must feel fantastic pulling up past the new barn!
Some common parts and styles with my 1946 Farmall H.
Maybe get a 5 gallon bucket of oil for the farm for a better price per quart. Best of luck on everything!
Dennis Roitt, Sr we love the new barn! Looking forward to getting the Surge stalls installed soon! I buy Rotella-T 15w-40 in 2 gallon jugs for my diesels, but for my one little gasser I just grab the quarts I need from NAPA.
Making an oil change interesting, that is talent.
David J. MacKinney thanks! Hope you enjoyed it!
I love the Mail box and IH patch on the coveralls ! Thank you for the oil change & lube procedures on the Farmall Cub . We spotted a Cub for sale last week with a Woods belly mower and probably gonna bring it home .
Hope you get your Farmall Cub! They’re a great little tractor! We love ours! Thanks for watching!
@@vnthomas16 Thank you and we bought it today ! $ 700 " non runner has set for two years " . Like I need another project LOL but this will be a fun one to put back in service !
Best of luck with your project!
@@vnthomas16 Thank you and will keep ya informed on progress !
Great informative video! 😊
Ghads I love machines! The tractor loves her new digs I bet. Lol @ “hi girls” and “like the mailbox? CUSTOM!” 😊
We love our machines! We treat them well, and they treat us well! My brother painted our mailbox by hand!
Thanks for the video, have 2 1947 cubs and are in need of a little love. Just got done replacing all tires, rebuilding carb and flush fuel tank.
All still run though, recently can’t get one of the cubs to get out of reverse and 3rd gear. I’ll have to pull the shifter and see what going on
You’re welcome! If you haven’t already, check out farmallcub.com . They have an excellent forum, and I would suspect someone can offer some advice for your shifter issue. Cubs are great tractors! Thanks for watching!
Great job!
Thanks!
Nice tractor
Thanks! It sure is a handy little tractor! Thanks for watching!
Great video - and much appreciated! I am just getting familiar with my 1955 Farmall Cub and this hepls me see what I've been reading in the Operator Manual. Would love to see a video of changing the Transmission oil.
You’re welcome! The hardest part is just finding all the drain/fill plugs! Haha! Thanks for watching!
Making me want a cub. Had plenty of cub cadet's.
Chris Hall we love our Cub! Have you checked out our other Cub videos?
@@vnthomas16 yes I have. Great videos.
When do you grease the throw out bearing? Can you order the access cover gasket in case it gets torn? Can’t find a part number. Guess I’ll have to cut my own? Thanks.
Thank you. Perfect timing. I'm about to get in to my 47' Cub. Any vids on rear brakes?
Cubs have brakes?!? Haha! Cubs are notorious for not having good brakes. They have a tendency to get oil on the linings. I’ve never actually done anything to my brakes, but if you’re looking for specific advice, I’d check out the forum at farmallcub.com. Glad you enjoyed the video! Thanks for watching!
@@vnthomas16 My 47 has "a" left brake and the right grinds horribly if applied. I just drive slow. ( as if i could drive fast..!) I"ve been applying your advise to my lubrication schedule. Thanks a bunch.
Sweet video. I did not know that's what the holes in the hood was for & the fan clutch. What sort of oil do you use in the Final Drives, Steering Gearbox and trans? Maybe the Rearend too?
Kyle H no rearend, but I believe the oil is all the same for the steering gear, transmission, and final drives. Don’t quote me since I’m traveling and don’t have my manual, but I believe it’s 80W90 gear oil. Thanks for watching!
Great video, thanks..... Question you say it takes 3 QTS but your 5 gallon bucket looks almost full?? Thanks
Lots of oil from lots of machines! Haha! I usually wait until it’s full to take it in to recycling! Thanks for watching!
Nice video. Didn't know about the can lube. So thanks. Did you grease the throw out bearing.
Yup, alway grease the TOB with the cheap grease! Thanks for watching!
You forgot the distributor shaft housing and the distributor drive housing. Remove the slotted plugs from each and screw in a zerk about 1/2 pump for the distributor shaft until grease comes out the small hole on the back side. The distributor drive needs about 3 pumps then replace slotted plugs.
That is a nice ole tractor. Do you buy oil in a gallon jug from your supply stores vs the 1 qt bottles?
Wendy Miller Thanks! We love our Cub! I buy Rotella-T 15w-40 in 2 gallon containers since everything else on the farm is diesel, but for my one little gas tractor, I just buy the few quarts I need from NAPA. Thanks for watching!
My 1948 cub is leaking hi-tran from the screw-off cap bellow the bell-housing. I removed the cap and it is empty inside. Do I need to refill it? I don't know. Or why is oil getting into the bellhousing?
I’m not that well versed as a Farmall Cub mechanic... But you might pose your question in the Farmallcub.com forum. Lots of knowledgeable folks on there who should be able to answer your question. Good luck!
Unless that 5 gal bucket had some oil in it already, It appears that you will need more than 3 quarts to refill it. It looks like you have about 3 gallons of oil in the bucket. Just a thought.
Richard Compton that waste oil bucket contains the oil of many machines! Not worth taking to town to recycle until it’s full. Almost there! Thanks for watching!
Should try to keep with the non detergent 30 weight or 15-40. The oil cup is fine with the light weight oil. The air filter element should be flushed if it has never been done. They get very clogged up and most of their life never get flushed. there is two ways to do this and both are messy. Remove the canister from the tractor and soak it in kerosene or whatever you have. give it a good shake. You will be surprised at the gunk that comes out. Second you can do it on the tractor, remove the air breather hat and the hose from the carb, and turn the extension hose away from the carb. remove the oil cup dump the oil and reinstall. Make sure the gasket is still there or the kerosene will pour out everywhere around the cup. REMOVE THE VAPOR HOSE from the engine block because we dont want fuel and crud flowing into the engine. pour kerosene or diesel down the intake tube until it flows out the extension tube. Give the tractor a good shake side to side let it sit for a moment and then pull the oil cup off. This will usually result in a huge mess. but all the crud will be flushed out. I recommend removing the element and housing from the tractor. Dont forget to blow the crud out of the vapor hose. 99% of the time they are completely clogged. I replaced mine with a clear poly hose so I can keep an eye on it.
Hello! You make some great points! Our tractor has been on a standard detergent-type oil for so long that it would be detrimental to go back. I think you could use just about any oil in that tractor, as the technology in oils has advanced so much since it was built, but we’ve had good luck with 10W-30. Summer or winter, the oil pressure comes right up where it should be as soon as she starts! Yes, kerosene is my go-to solvent for cleaning things like elements or bearing on the Cub. I love how simple that tractor is to maintain! She’s starting to show her age though, so some more intense maintenance may be in her future, but she certainly is a workhorse we depend on! Well built, simple, and strong! Don’t underestimate her low horsepower! Haha! Thanks for the comments and thanks for watching! Always happy to find another Cub fan out there! Just a great tractor!
I just did this on my neighbors 53. Did you lube your mag? Also, what are those rods mounted below the carb and starter? For stiffening?
No mag, battery ignition. Yes, the engine braces are for stiffening a known weak point with the engine ears. Thanks for watching!
Is that adjustable wrench standard or mertic 🤔😃😃
Timothy Hanneman it depends on which hand you’re using! It’s metric when in the left hand! 😂
Isn't it like 3.5 quarts when you change the filter?
Nate vanLandingham I just follow the owner’s manual. Hasn’t steered my wrong yet! Thanks for watching!
Loosen the bolt on top of the filter housing and it’ll drain off a little quicker
Any chance of actually doing the finals for people to see? I have a 1952 I want to take the pans off, replace the gaskets and clean out the bottoms of the pans, and refill. A little nervous about doing it.
Yup, my final drives are due for an oil change this winter. It’s not particularly difficult, but it is very messy. The oil level is actually above the tops of the pans, so as soon as you start loosening the bolts, oil will run everywhere. Wear nitrile gloves, put plastic in the floor, and have some containers to catch what you can. If you have a fast hitch, it’s a bit annoying as the brackets are in the way. I don’t take my fast hitch off, but I do one side at a time, because if I took it all the way off, I’d probably forget how to put it back! Haha! Good luck!
Clover Mountain Dairy thanks!
nice. So how did you fill the fan hub? Just with oil can?
Yes, with an oil can. I keep one handy for that as well as oiling the generator. Thanks for watching!
Nice shop threads! Irma Harding would approve! Do you also collect IH hats? Saw an IH catalog once from the late '60s where they offered just about any hat imaginable with an IH logo.
Keith Fink I mostly have KW hats! Virginia has an IH t-shirt though...
I actually found your channel because of the Cub. I have a 1962. Do you have a link to the pages you printed from the manual? I use 10w30 as well, with some Motorkote. I've also seen some debate over whether or not you should use 3 or 4 quarts. When I first got my tractor, I changed all the fluids, but didn't know anything about the fan hub. It started making an awful noise recently and freaked me out. I oiled it and it's quiet again. Such a relief that was. I'm not sure about the older cubs, but my pedal pivots have grease fittings.
planejet42 definitely no grease fittings on my pedals! I bought my manual which is printed and bound from “Binder Books”, which specializes in reprints of IH literature. If you’re a member of Farmallcub.com (which I highly recommend) then you have access to scanned manuals, not only for the tractor but also implements. As you have figured out, IH did make minor changes to the Cub over the years, so you’ll want to find the manual closest to your date range. Thanks for watching!
Have you ever had hydraulic oil end up in the motor oil?
I’ve never had that problem. I know it can happen to Cubs if a seal fails in the hydraulic pump. Pretty easy to diagnose though if suddenly your crankcase is over full.
Rachel Gingel (spelling) just posted their oil change video a few weeks back!
I have heard, but I don’t watch her videos.
@@vnthomas16 I found her and her dad's channel after searching Farmall cub. They only have like four videos I think I'm the cub, which surprises me, since they wrote the "encyclopedia"?? I guess they want to sell it to you.
what type of oil for transmisson and rear gears
I use 80-W /90 which is what the IH manual for my year specifies.
It’s 3.5 quarts with filter change,
bill porciello thanks for the comment! I just follow the owners manual. As per IH’s instructions, I put 3 quarts in and it’s right on the full mark on the dipstick. Thanks for watching!
How’s the heifers doing
Greg Hollingsworth they’re doing well. The first two that are due have already started bagging up!
huh? my eyes were closing then I heard get the oil out of the air filter and I woke up wondering wth? Now I know....how old is that tractor? I am surprised you can still find filters!
Also, how is the mountain lion population where you are? Lots of sightings or none? I am eyeing land in Deer Park, seems like a nice place.
Steve I think oil bath filters are superior to paper elements. The tractor is a 1954. We live in the “wild” west, so there is plenty of coyotes, wolves, bobcats, and cougars to go around. Most predation involves pets and smaller livestock, but wolves occasionally take down cattle.
@@vnthomas16 yea, I have heard about the predator issues. You guys haven't had any issues though?
Steve only our fowl has experienced predation. Fun fact: Great horned owls eat skunks!
@@vnthomas16 oh wow....I take it you saw this in person? That would have been crazy....and smelly?
Blue and white cabover for sale ???
Sorry, not for sale.
you forgot to prime the oil pump while you had filter housing open
No need to prime the pump just for a oil change. Yes, it takes a few seconds to fill the filter housing, but the bearings and other important bits are still being lubricated. After a rebuild or if the tractor has been sitting a long time, priming the oil pump is definitely recommended! Thanks for watching!
Sorry to disagree on the oil you are using. The new oils have detergents, and can foam in the crankcase. You should be using a lead substitute in the gas, you can get at tractor supply. In Canada we have high test without ethanol I use that, because the ethanol damages old style gaskets and they deteriorate over time. Uae 50 weight non detergent oil if you wanted the old girl to have an extended life
Don Macdonald thank you for your comments! And thanks for watching!
Technology from those days when there was an expectation that equipment would, if serviced when required and used for its stated purpose, would last a lifetime. That expectation also included the user / owner performing that servicing. My other half cannot comprehend this theory.
I recently bought a new car. It is the first brand new car that I've ever owned and will, in all probability, be the last car I ever buy. The only "user serviceable" items on it are gas and water - and only the water for the washers, the coolant is only ever topped up by the "service technicians", not some bloke in overalls. This is probably just as well as when I pulled the bonnet to refill the washer bottle, the engine bay contained nothing that I recognised as being part of a car's engine!
UA-cam's algorithm keeps showing me vids of another "farming" channel where they constantly seem to be trashing [and replacing] new and, presumably very expensive, pieces of kit. I would doubt that much of what they are using / misusing will last out the next five years.
I think you and they are horses in different races.
I love the older equipment. It’s so well built, that it’s pretty problem free as long as you use ample oil and grease! And, when you do have a problem, you can usually fix it yourself. I look at the engine in our new truck, and wonder why there are so many wires? Haha! Thanks for watching!
You never mentioned the distributor grease points which has two and you have to remove two plugs insert a zerk grade and remove them and reinstall the two plugs. Most people dont know they even exist. One is at front of distributor shaft and other one is at rear and above a little you willl see it. Needs greasing everytime you grease tractor zerks. Good Video otherwise.