Wow!! This could be the best, most well thought out video on repair I have ever seen. The method of explanation of how to diagnose the electrical system she used is genius! All packed in a 10 minute video! Fantastic work!! Huge👍
I really enjoy how you explain complicated repairs and troubleshooting in a simple to understand video. Glad you went back to wearing a blue shirt to make those of us who work blue collar type jobs proud!
Love your videos. I just purchased the Cub encyclopedia. My first job on our family farm was cultivating sweet corn when I was 10 years old. A long time ago. I am currently searching for a Cub to restore. . The one I operated was a 1949. Rachel you are the best . I'm glad to see your generation so involved in farming .
Of note could be if your tractor has a magneto it's going to run regardless of battery cable disconnect or not. Then usually there is a warning not to run the charging system without a battery. W-9 is one such system.
Really appreciate you making this video. My father-in-law thought his tractor was having an issue. I know nothing about the 6 volt positive ground system and your video helped immensely. Turns out he just has a gauge that was bad. His tractor is a 1954 Ford 800, Keep up the great work.
There's a chance you might electrocute somebody if they test the charging system the way you are doing it. You full field the armature with a voltmeter and ammeter hooked up. You need to stay away from electrical repair. You're obviously not a mechanic at all and have very little knowledge about the charging system. What does the 3rd brush do? What is a cut out relay? What is a current regulator? What is a voltage regulator? See what I mean? What you're doing is embarrassing and potentially dangerous. NEVER disconnect the battery with the engine running.
Ms. Rachel : Skip it . I have always - ran on - battery power. 😎 Bryan. ----- A , marine battery on a L P Farmall M . The , spark gap is .015 - not much needed to hop 🐇 across 🐇. ------- I - need a tire ! ; Mann - it is - a pain. ------ 9N needs a tire (soon) too.
I know a few people that have had issues with the 3 brush generators where someone had swapped out a normal regulator in place of the cutout relay and it causes ALL kinds of unexpected results (usually a burnt armature because of reverse polarity, etc.) It would have been nice if they would have stuck with a single design on those old 6 volt positive ground systems!😉 Great tutorial. Thanks a bunch Rachel!😁👍
My generator has three brushes however the model number of the generator warranted a new regulator not a cut out? The wiring of the system also indicated that i needed a regulator and not a cut out. The tractor doesn’t charge i pulled the positive bat terminal off - engine dies. Jump the feild wire To ground- no activity on the amp gauge. When i turn the lights on i do get a negative amp draw on the guard. The generator does pass the spin test. So i replaced the regulator. However the same issue is happening. I also tested the gen output and got plus 1.5 volts at the a terminal. Check the wiring and it appears to be correct. Also checked the regulator was grounded good and it is. Any help Will be much appreciated Thanks! Matt
Rachel, could you make a video on how to take the slack out of the steering for a cub? My linkage is tight but the slack is inside the steering housing. It's so bad that the front wheels shimmy going down the road in high gear! Thanks
Very good videos! I have a MF 135 so I can learn a lot from your videos! One comment ... please start the tractor only when you are in the seat, and not in front of the wheels!!
Rachel. Great video. I love your attention to detail. I have a small but significant problem and I'm hoping you or one of your viewers can help. I have a 1948 Plymouth with a 6 volt positive ground system. I'm having problems with the charging system. I have taken the generator completely apart and cleaned "everything" inside. I then performed the "motor" test on it where I grounded the field wire and connected the battery to it and it runs perfectly smooth. So I know everything in it seems right. I've confirmed that all the grounds related to the charging system are clean and well secured. I've even added a dedicated ground wire from the frame to the voltage regulator and directly to the positive side of the battery (ground). I have replaced the voltage regulator on it twice - and bench tested (two of the relays "engage" at around 6.8 add 7.2 volts respectively as I turn up the voltage slowly). The battery voltage in the car at rest is around 6.24 volts. However, when I start the car the voltage does not increase at all - no matter what RPM I increase the engine to. I've tried both analog and digital multi meters. I've removed the generator, wires and voltage regulator, checked and reassembled multiple times. Believe it or not, but I had a bad Ammeter and had to replace it - now the Ammeter works fine, but it only registers a drain on the battery and no charge. So my question is this - Can I disconnect "all" the wires from the generator and start the car to confirm that it is putting out voltage, or will this fry the generator? I 'm guessing that I should be able to start the car and see the voltage rise and then shut off the car quickly if it goes to high. My suspicion is that it will show no voltage. Oh, I forgot to mention that after my rebuild of the generator, I took it to a motor repair place and they hooked it up in the back room and said it was in great condition. However, I failed to ask them how many volts it was putting out - if any. Maybe they just did a motor test and that was how they tested - I'm not sure. Anyway, your video shows everything except how to confirm if the generator is putting out sufficient voltage. Any advice would be great! Thanks!
I see this was four months ago and you may have it charging by now,but just wondering if you polorized the generator,most of the time you have to do that to get them to charge correctly,and sometimes when you just disconnect a wire for any reason breaking the connection they may lose their polarity!
Thank you for a very informative video! As a Small Engine Tech,I sometimes work on vintage yard tractors that have a similar setup but I see more with voltage regulators than with cutoffs.Your book looks interesting and plan on purchasing it.
yes my farmall m is positive ground so put the 12v wire to positive even if its ground, works for me. this is the exact alternator i use for my tractors amzn.to/2HbADsf
Most did. Most 6V regulators only work for positive ground. Some 12V regulators may say 12 V P/N on them. You can select the polarity on them just by hooking up the battery the way you want and then momentarily with a short piece of wire touch the GEN terminal and BAT terminals on the regulator. This polarizes your generator.
I hope this message will find some help!!! I have a 1958 Farmall Cub. Since I got it I have to jumpstart it to start. It is 6 volt so have had to jump it with My Truck but My Uncle showed Me a “reverse” (not sure if I am saying it right🤣) way to jump it and that has worked. Once it is jumpstarted it runs Amazing but when I cut it off it will not start or turn over at all after running. Basically I have to jumpstart again. Today I bought a new 6v battery and hoped that would fix but when I took negative cable off to test like U said it cut off. I dont wanna keep battery hooked up cuz I dont want to run down battery but trying to see based upon symptoms of U could tell Me whether U think it is the Voltage Regulator or Generator is bad. Just for clarity once it is is started it will run with no problems until I turn off!!! I hope Yall can help and I Love Yalls Page!!!!
Hello, this is my first video of your series, I must say you present yourself well and have a respectable knowledge of electrical mechanics. I want to convey the message that early Cubs like mine came with the J-4 Magneto & the simple battery cable removal test is not valid on a magneto tractor. Also, I think you should point out that those tractors have a multiposition charge/headlamp switch & unless the switch knob rotated the charge system function is bypassed.
Hi I have a 9N #26426 but I pulled wires and have cut out & relay VR in same circuit but no new harnesses match my wire colors, can you help 6v front distrib generator 2N10000 , I think anyway , I am lost can you help
Thank you Rachel for this video! I purchased my Farmall last year and wasn't sure if it was charging correctly, so I followed the steps and confirmed that my electrical system is good to go.
Some reverse current relays, I think all of them really, have two coils one is a shunt winding of many many turns of lite gage wire and over it is say 5 to 10 turns of a heavier gage wire, that would be the current coil. now when the gen is putting out say 7.5 to 8. volts, the shunt winding which is also a voltage coil will know it, as it is a voltage sensitive coil. it will pull the contacts together and charging commences. The shunt and current coils would be both wound in the same direction. the Current coil's magnetic field assists the voltage coil's magnetic field. Now when the engine slows and gen volts less than battery, current will flow back to the gen but very briefly. the magnetic field of current coil will be bucking that of the voltage coil, not enough magnetic pull to hold the contacts together or overcome spring tension. The heavier wire on the reverse current relay would be rated in amps the same as gen. output would be so if u swapped out a heavier regulator, say a 3 coil job that would be a voltage regulator, overcurrent protection, and reverse current relay. If this type reg is for say a 30 amp gen, but u replace reg.for a 45 amp gen, in essence, you are using a larger fuse than you should, because what happens is 45 amps will cause a heavier pull to open the contacts which reduces the field current so gen's amps won't be exceeded. so your gen will be smoking hot before its current is reduced and that burns me up.
You seem to know your tractors very well, perhaaps you or someone else can help me. I am at my wits end. I have a ih756 with the german diesel. Charging system used to work despite several wires missing from connectors. Now it is not charging. I can full field the alternator (supply bat voltage to field wir)e and it will kick out 14 volts. I replaced the voltage regulator because it is hard to trace wires. Didn't work. Traced wires. Yellow field wire and brown R terminal wire from alternator are good back to VR (OHM out good). When running, amp light is on solid (was blinking- just a bad bulb) I have bat voltage on both sides of amp tellite. I have battery voltage on terminals 3 and 4 of VR. Nothing coming out of field term. on VR or Brown wire on 2 term. Any ideas?
With the gas tank built into the hood. what kind of tank do you use with the hood off? great video. just picked up your book. have a 1951 cub I am working on.
Great video! I used your test methods (previously) to chase my problems to the voltage regulator. But I have changed it (multiple times) and they have blown each time. What happens is I install it and it charges fine. Then after the tractor sets for a little while, hour or so, and I go crank it up, it’s no longer charging and the VR is the culprit. Anybody have any idea what is going on? It’s a Farmall Super A. Thanks!
My Massey 65 dies when I remove negative off battery. I have correct generator and regulator. Wires test good. Testing generator now, but right at the end of test 4 you said it could be regulator again. But since I get good voltage 13+ for a minute or two, then motor stalls. Must be regulator.
Sorry I didn’t realize that tractors that old had electric fuel shut off valves, which would be the only thing that would make it stop if you disconnect the battery and your charge system is not working, unless it is petrol off cause, but you didn’t specify which it was.
Oddly enough, this is just what I needed to diagnose the charging problems with my 1941 Ford automobile, a 6V positive ground system. Spent half the day with this and another of Rachel's videos ( ua-cam.com/video/qo5wQwvv9WE/v-deo.html ) troubleshooting and concluded that my voltage regulator is good and that I can probably fix my generator by rebrushing it and cleaning up the commutator.
I knew I was about due for a new battery either way and replaced that, then I was ready to pull off my generator but still had jumper cables close by and test 4 spun up my generator like a top. Testing wires, I have continuity end to end at terminals. The issue has gotta be in the voltage regulator! Great repair video - saved me time and money. Where do I send my tuition for this class?
You are very good at what you do. Keep up the good work. I have an international cub cadet garden tractor 1974 model 128 and I’m having problems where did charging only 12 1/2 Add three-quarter speed. Mine is a starter generator. I tried your test grounding out the field and the gauge starts to move up. Back in my younger days my dad used to have McCormick Deering tractors. Keep the videos coming you do an excellent job. As ever big Pete.
I was wondering if you could help me I have a harry Ferguson t30. I am getting juice on both sides if the coil and to the points but no fire to plugs or the coil wire
Rachel I like watching your Videos because they are so informative & plus you are very good at the repairs & diagnosis you do & make on those Tractors I don't know where you got your training on how to do the work on the Tractors you where very well taught by great instructors I've watched you in a lot of your Videos & admired everyone of them & I can see you do not see anything wrong with getting some dirt & oil on your hands that is very respectable KUDOS & A BIG THUMBS UP to you keep up the great work I'll be watching I also refer people to watch you that need to do some work on their Tractors & don't have the knowledge to do so
Hi I have a 1952 Ford 8n tractor that was converted to a a 12 volt --- but I think the wiring was done wrong I been watching your videos and think you are awesome --- I was hoping that you can help me -- i have a 4 point ignition switch Is there any way you can send me a wiring diagram to put the wiring in the right place --- Thank you! Anthony
One thing I forgot to mention,and I think you forgot too, if a tractor has a magneto, you can pull the battery cables and the engine wont stop even if your generator isnt working.... (:
I like your old school way of testing things. No expensive electronic tools needed. A person could trouble shoot their tractor out in the field if necessary. No expensive computer and software needed!
These Rachel Dingell videos aren't just about tractors. They're about how to explain something clearly and understandably. Even if you have no interest in tractor repair, they are very interesting to watch because they're so easy to follow.
I’ve watched so many of your videos and searched through them all and can’t find anything on a wobbly crankshaft pully. From what I can tell, I need to remove the entire front end of the tractor.
Tightening the generator support bolts also can be a more sure way to ground the generator to the frame if you dont ahve another jsumper lead handy to run back to the battery.Thanks for the great tips, I didnt realize there were 2 brush generators on any of the old IH 6 volters but that makes sense.You should do a video about the high-low- system in the farmal tractors and how to set the amperage with the brush movement.
Awesome video! Searching around trying to troubleshoot on my "M", and this the first video I click on, kind of ironic that it is somebody I know and have exchanged conversation with.
Racheal...in your video explaining how to rebuild the 6 v generator ("6 v system charging issue") the Farmall 300 has a 3 brush generator and a voltage regulator. In this video you say the 3 brush generator goes with a cutout and the voltage regulator goes with the 2 brush generator. I also have a 3 brush generator and voltage regulator on my 1955 Cub Lo-boy. Just thought you should know. But a very nice presentation none-the-less.
Wow!! This could be the best, most well thought out video on repair I have ever seen. The method of explanation of how to diagnose the electrical system she used is genius! All packed in a 10 minute video! Fantastic work!! Huge👍
The video was very helpful but could you do more closeups to show where everything needs to be connected please?
Thanks Rachel! You just taught this "old dog" a new trick. I love your enthusiasm for tractors. Good video, very informative!
Hi there, I am an electrical engineer. Excellent troubleshooting and explanation of what each step does!!. Great job.
I really enjoy how you explain complicated repairs and troubleshooting in a simple to understand video. Glad you went back to wearing a blue shirt to make those of us who work blue collar type jobs proud!
Nice job Rachel.
Your knowledge impresses me. So nice to see a young person with so much enthusiasm. Thank you
Thanks Rachel , very informative vid. I have a 1957 Cub not showing a charge. Thanks to you I'm confident that the problem will be solved.
Not true if there is a magneto disconnecting the battery terminal wont mean anything
Exactly. I was about to say the same thing.
Could you do one on 12 volt on. 560 Farmall
Love your videos. I just purchased the Cub encyclopedia. My first job on our family farm was cultivating sweet corn when I was 10 years old. A long time ago. I am currently searching for a Cub to restore. . The one I operated was a 1949.
Rachel you are the best . I'm glad to see your generation so involved in farming .
Of note could be if your tractor has a magneto it's going to run regardless of battery cable disconnect or not. Then usually there is a warning not to run the charging system without a battery. W-9 is one such system.
Thanks Rachel.... another great vid!
Really appreciate you making this video. My father-in-law thought his tractor was having an issue. I know nothing about the 6 volt positive ground system and your video helped immensely. Turns out he just has a gauge that was bad. His tractor is a 1954 Ford 800, Keep up the great work.
There's a chance you might electrocute somebody if they test the charging system the way you are doing it. You full field the armature with a voltmeter and ammeter hooked up. You need to stay away from electrical repair. You're obviously not a mechanic at all and have very little knowledge about the charging system. What does the 3rd brush do? What is a cut out relay? What is a current regulator? What is a voltage regulator? See what I mean? What you're doing is embarrassing and potentially dangerous. NEVER disconnect the battery with the engine running.
Ms. Rachel : Skip it . I have always - ran on - battery power. 😎 Bryan.
-----
A , marine battery on a L P Farmall M .
The , spark gap is .015 - not much needed to hop 🐇 across 🐇.
-------
I - need a tire ! ; Mann - it is - a pain.
------
9N needs a tire (soon) too.
I know a few people that have had issues with the 3 brush generators where someone had swapped out a normal regulator in place of the cutout relay and it causes ALL kinds of unexpected results (usually a burnt armature because of reverse polarity, etc.) It would have been nice if they would have stuck with a single design on those old 6 volt positive ground systems!😉 Great tutorial. Thanks a bunch Rachel!😁👍
My generator has three brushes however the model number of the generator warranted a new regulator not a cut out? The wiring of the system also indicated that i needed a regulator and not a cut out. The tractor doesn’t charge i pulled the positive bat terminal off - engine dies. Jump the feild wire To ground- no activity on the amp gauge. When i turn the lights on i do get a negative amp draw on the guard. The generator does pass the spin test. So i replaced the regulator. However the same issue is happening. I also tested the gen output and got plus 1.5 volts at the a terminal. Check the wiring and it appears to be correct. Also checked the regulator was grounded good and it is. Any help
Will be much appreciated
Thanks!
Matt
Rachel, could you make a video on how to take the slack out of the steering for a cub? My linkage is tight but the slack is inside the steering housing. It's so bad that the front wheels shimmy going down the road in high gear! Thanks
Very good videos! I have a MF 135 so I can learn a lot from your videos! One comment ... please start the tractor only when you are in the seat, and not in front of the wheels!!
Rachel. Great video. I love your attention to detail. I have a small but significant problem and I'm hoping you or one of your viewers can help. I have a 1948 Plymouth with a 6 volt positive ground system. I'm having problems with the charging system. I have taken the generator completely apart and cleaned "everything" inside. I then performed the "motor" test on it where I grounded the field wire and connected the battery to it and it runs perfectly smooth. So I know everything in it seems right. I've confirmed that all the grounds related to the charging system are clean and well secured. I've even added a dedicated ground wire from the frame to the voltage regulator and directly to the positive side of the battery (ground). I have replaced the voltage regulator on it twice - and bench tested (two of the relays "engage" at around 6.8 add 7.2 volts respectively as I turn up the voltage slowly). The battery voltage in the car at rest is around 6.24 volts. However, when I start the car the voltage does not increase at all - no matter what RPM I increase the engine to. I've tried both analog and digital multi meters. I've removed the generator, wires and voltage regulator, checked and reassembled multiple times. Believe it or not, but I had a bad Ammeter and had to replace it - now the Ammeter works fine, but it only registers a drain on the battery and no charge. So my question is this - Can I disconnect "all" the wires from the generator and start the car to confirm that it is putting out voltage, or will this fry the generator? I 'm guessing that I should be able to start the car and see the voltage rise and then shut off the car quickly if it goes to high. My suspicion is that it will show no voltage. Oh, I forgot to mention that after my rebuild of the generator, I took it to a motor repair place and they hooked it up in the back room and said it was in great condition. However, I failed to ask them how many volts it was putting out - if any. Maybe they just did a motor test and that was how they tested - I'm not sure. Anyway, your video shows everything except how to confirm if the generator is putting out sufficient voltage. Any advice would be great! Thanks!
I see this was four months ago and you may have it charging by now,but just wondering if you polorized the generator,most of the time you have to do that to get them to charge correctly,and sometimes when you just disconnect a wire for any reason breaking the connection they may lose their polarity!
Taking the cable off will not stop the tractor if it has a magneto ignition or diesel!
How about engine turns over but won’t fire? A real world problem
Great video. You can tell the quality is better with the lighting and audio. You should have your own show.
You didnt tell the first thing, is it diesel or petrol engine. On diesel engine you can remove battery and engine still go on :)
good job , clear instructions, even men can understand,,,,,,,lol
im a GM tech but also a farmer,this takes me back years ago,i have changed a few from gen to alt,ood video,keep it up
Good tips! Those three brush things can be finicky.
You look like Rose McIver. Are you her twin sister?
Thank you for a very informative video! As a Small Engine Tech,I sometimes work on vintage yard tractors that have a similar setup but I see more with voltage regulators than with cutoffs.Your book looks interesting and plan on purchasing it.
My antique tractor is + ground. Does that make a difference?
yes my farmall m is positive ground so put the 12v wire to positive even if its ground, works for me. this is the exact alternator i use for my tractors amzn.to/2HbADsf
Most did. Most 6V regulators only work for positive ground. Some 12V regulators may say 12 V P/N on them. You can select the polarity on them just by hooking up the battery the way you want and then momentarily with a short piece of wire touch the GEN terminal and BAT terminals on the regulator. This polarizes your generator.
What am i doing here? I don't have a tractor or an interest in them (electronic engineer)
That good to know
you kno nothing bout electricity
so adorable
Absolutely
Good video. You didn't show how to flash the field in case the battery was disconnected. That would also cause the generator to not charge.
I hope this message will find some help!!! I have a 1958 Farmall Cub. Since I got it I have to jumpstart it to start. It is 6 volt so have had to jump it with My Truck but My Uncle showed Me a “reverse” (not sure if I am saying it right🤣) way to jump it and that has worked. Once it is jumpstarted it runs Amazing but when I cut it off it will not start or turn over at all after running. Basically I have to jumpstart again. Today I bought a new 6v battery and hoped that would fix but when I took negative cable off to test like U said it cut off. I dont wanna keep battery hooked up cuz I dont want to run down battery but trying to see based upon symptoms of U could tell Me whether U think it is the Voltage Regulator or Generator is bad. Just for clarity once it is is started it will run with no problems until I turn off!!! I hope Yall can help and I Love Yalls Page!!!!
Hello, this is my first video of your series, I must say you present yourself well and have a respectable knowledge of electrical mechanics. I want to convey the message that early Cubs like mine came with the J-4 Magneto & the simple battery cable removal test is not valid on a magneto tractor. Also, I think you should point out that those tractors have a multiposition charge/headlamp switch & unless the switch knob rotated the charge system function is bypassed.
Great video as always
Hi
I have a 9N #26426 but I pulled wires and have cut out & relay VR in same circuit but no new harnesses match my wire colors, can you help 6v front distrib generator 2N10000 , I think anyway , I am lost can you help
Thank you Rachel for this video! I purchased my Farmall last year and wasn't sure if it was charging correctly, so I followed the steps and confirmed that my electrical system is good to go.
Do you work on A/C tractors
Some reverse current relays, I think all of them really, have two coils one is a shunt
winding of many many turns of lite gage wire and over it is say 5 to 10 turns of a
heavier gage wire, that would be the current coil. now when the gen is putting out
say 7.5 to 8. volts, the shunt winding which is also a voltage coil will know it, as it is
a voltage sensitive coil. it will pull the contacts together and charging commences.
The shunt and current coils would be both wound in the same direction. the Current
coil's magnetic field assists the voltage coil's magnetic field. Now when the engine
slows and gen volts less than battery, current will flow back to the gen but very briefly.
the magnetic field of current coil will be bucking that of the voltage coil, not enough
magnetic pull to hold the contacts together or overcome spring tension.
The heavier wire on the reverse current relay would be rated in amps the same as gen.
output would be so if u swapped out a heavier regulator, say a 3 coil job that would be
a voltage regulator, overcurrent protection, and reverse current relay. If this type reg is
for say a 30 amp gen, but u replace reg.for a 45 amp gen, in essence, you are using a larger
fuse than you should, because what happens is 45 amps will cause a heavier pull to
open the contacts which reduces the field current so gen's amps won't be exceeded.
so your gen will be smoking hot before its current is reduced and that burns me up.
Thank you for this. It helped me diagnose my system which was indeed a bad VR 🙂
You seem to know your tractors very well, perhaaps you or someone else can help me. I am at my wits end. I have a ih756 with the german diesel. Charging system used to work despite several wires missing from connectors. Now it is not charging. I can full field the alternator (supply bat voltage to field wir)e and it will kick out 14 volts. I replaced the voltage regulator because it is hard to trace wires. Didn't work. Traced wires. Yellow field wire and brown R terminal wire from alternator are good back to VR (OHM out good). When running, amp light is on solid (was blinking- just a bad bulb) I have bat voltage on both sides of amp tellite. I have battery voltage on terminals 3 and 4 of VR. Nothing coming out of field term. on VR or Brown wire on 2 term. Any ideas?
these tractors are 6v positive ground?
Yes. IH used positive ground until they came out with the 560
I have a 130 with issues... generator seems to be good. Replaced the regulator and it worked for a while but has now stopped charging. Any ideas?
With the gas tank built into the hood. what kind of tank do you use with the hood off? great video. just picked up your book. have a 1951 cub I am working on.
Great video! I used your test methods (previously) to chase my problems to the voltage regulator. But I have changed it (multiple times) and they have blown each time. What happens is I install it and it charges fine. Then after the tractor sets for a little while, hour or so, and I go crank it up, it’s no longer charging and the VR is the culprit. Anybody have any idea what is going on? It’s a Farmall Super A. Thanks!
My Massey 65 dies when I remove negative off battery. I have correct generator and regulator. Wires test good. Testing generator now, but right at the end of test 4 you said it could be regulator again. But since I get good voltage 13+ for a minute or two, then motor stalls. Must be regulator.
Sorry I didn’t realize that tractors that old had electric fuel shut off valves, which would be the only thing that would make it stop if you disconnect the battery and your charge system is not working, unless it is petrol off cause, but you didn’t specify which it was.
Oddly enough, this is just what I needed to diagnose the charging problems with my 1941 Ford automobile, a 6V positive ground system. Spent half the day with this and another of Rachel's videos ( ua-cam.com/video/qo5wQwvv9WE/v-deo.html ) troubleshooting and concluded that my voltage regulator is good and that I can probably fix my generator by rebrushing it and cleaning up the commutator.
Hi, I bought the Cub Encyclopedia, it's a great deal, very helpful, very professional.
I knew I was about due for a new battery either way and replaced that, then I was ready to pull off my generator but still had jumper cables close by and test 4 spun up my generator like a top. Testing wires, I have continuity end to end at terminals. The issue has gotta be in the voltage regulator! Great repair video - saved me time and money. Where do I send my tuition for this class?
Do u have any videos of taking a farmall h charging system and upgrading it to a 12v ?
young smart very pretty lady. and toying with tracktors. ladys steeling da show by god .
You are very good at what you do. Keep up the good work. I have an international cub cadet garden tractor 1974 model 128 and I’m having problems where did charging only 12 1/2 Add three-quarter speed. Mine is a starter generator. I tried your test grounding out the field and the gauge starts to move up. Back in my younger days my dad used to have McCormick Deering tractors. Keep the videos coming you do an excellent job. As ever big Pete.
Hi folks. Rachel's good, isn't she? Those fault finding tips would be useful on other vintage vehicles as well as tractors. BobUK.
Thanks for the video. I especially found the gen test helpful!!
Does anyone know the proper length & width for the gen belt on a Farmall A???
I was wondering if you could help me I have a harry Ferguson t30. I am getting juice on both sides if the coil and to the points but no fire to plugs or the coil wire
Thanks, This is exactly what I needed for my Ferguson.
Great job in explaining the process your videos are worth there weight in gold.
Rachel I like watching your Videos because they are so informative & plus you are very good at the repairs & diagnosis you do & make on those Tractors I don't know where you got your training on how to do the work on the Tractors you where very well taught by great instructors I've watched you in a lot of your Videos & admired everyone of them & I can see you do not see anything wrong with getting some dirt & oil on your hands that is very respectable KUDOS & A BIG THUMBS UP to you keep up the great work I'll be watching I also refer people to watch you that need to do some work on their Tractors & don't have the knowledge to do so
Your video was 5 years ago, but I enjoyed it today and ordered your book... nice to see a lady with grease on her hands.
Great information & presented great. Solved my problem!!!!
Hi I have a 1952 Ford 8n tractor that was converted to a a 12 volt --- but I think the wiring was done wrong
I been watching your videos and think you are awesome --- I was hoping that you can help me -- i have a 4 point ignition switch
Is there any way you can send me a wiring diagram to put the wiring in the right place ---
Thank you!
Anthony
Good video! I'm installing a new voltage regulator on a Super A with an old generator. Does it matter which gets polarized first?
That was the best explanation of how to test this stuff. Ive seen a lot of videos that don't really explain anything.
Never forget to be in NUETRAL before you try to start (tractor can start in gear and Go) excellent video.
Fantastic Rachel thanks for sharing this video thumps yup :-) :-)
Excellent video. Where can you purchase the 6 volt regulator with one coil for a three brush generator?
Hi Rachel, great video! But is that tractor positive ground? Maybe you should note that.
You go girl
Nice
Like To Check out these Videos , Helps with antique cars also!
One thing I forgot to mention,and I think you forgot too, if a tractor has a magneto, you can pull the battery cables and the engine wont stop even if your generator isnt working.... (:
I like your old school way of testing things. No expensive electronic tools needed. A person could trouble shoot their tractor out in the field if necessary. No expensive computer and software needed!
excellent presentation with sound methods. thanks you.
These Rachel Dingell videos aren't just about tractors. They're about how to explain something clearly and understandably. Even if you have no interest in tractor repair, they are very interesting to watch because they're so easy to follow.
Great video 👌 very well explained Thanks!!
Damn good video, she really knows what she's talking about !
excellent video - many thanks !!!
You never remove the battery cables with the engine running. It full fields the regulator and can do damage
Thx! This pointed me in the right direction. I dont own a cub but i do own a car with a 6 volt system that drives me nuts!
Thank you sweet Lady for the great content!
I’ve watched so many of your videos and searched through them all and can’t find anything on a wobbly crankshaft pully. From what I can tell, I need to remove the entire front end of the tractor.
Do you have a Farmall M Encyclopedia?
Tightening the generator support bolts also can be a more sure way to ground the generator to the frame if you dont ahve another jsumper lead handy to run back to the battery.Thanks for the great tips, I didnt realize there were 2 brush generators on any of the old IH 6 volters but that makes sense.You should do a video about the high-low- system in the farmal tractors and how to set the amperage with the brush movement.
Awesome video! Searching around trying to troubleshoot on my "M", and this the first video I click on, kind of ironic that it is somebody I know and have exchanged conversation with.
Great video! Watched the whole thing. But I don't even own a tractor?
How many antique tractors do you own Rachel?
Good info. Thanks for sharing and I bought your book.
Can you explain drop setting of inline fuel pump
Good info. Wish you had a Farmall H book coming out.
Can you use a 12 volt battery on a 6 volt system?
I would love this girl to come and hang out with me and go crazy on my old Farmall M.
Young lady you are the best..I have watched so many videos on all of my questions and you do a wonderful job. Thanks for your help.
Racheal...in your video explaining how to rebuild the 6 v generator ("6 v system charging issue") the Farmall 300 has a 3 brush generator and a voltage regulator. In this video you say the 3 brush generator goes with a cutout and the voltage regulator goes with the 2 brush generator. I also have a 3 brush generator and voltage regulator on my 1955 Cub Lo-boy. Just thought you should know. But a very nice presentation none-the-less.
The old 6V generator that uses the cut out number is 1101355 and the one that uses a voltage regulator is 1100501.
I love the way Rachel says, "Tractor (Trector)". I wish I could have met someone like Rachel in my twenties.
Great stuff, Rachel!....my cub has had a 12 volt conversion......any chance you could post a video for testing the charging system on such a rig?
A 12V generator and regular operates on the same principle as the 6V. The same principles apply.