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How to Bleed a C5 Clutch
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- Опубліковано 9 кві 2020
- C5 Corvettes with manual transmissions should have the clutch bled fairly often to avoid issues of the slave cylinder getting gunked up with clutch dust that gets past the seals in the enclosed area where the slave cylinder resides. There are 3 methods addressed in this video. 1.) Bleeding the clutch from beneath, 2.) From the top by removing the intake manifold and by using a remote bleeder. 3.) I also discuss the popular "Ranger Method".
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I've been trying to catch up on your past uploads and as to this one, one significant change I would recommend is at the end of the remote bleed line have a speed-bleeder rather than a regular bleed valve. That way you open the valve, get in the car and pump the clutch several times, check the fluid level in the m/c and repeat as necessary. When done, tighten the speed-bleeder and relax. Also, this is good for a marriage because the “down, hold, up, repeat” inevitably causes an argument between mechanic (husband) and pedal operator (wife).
Just my two cents.😉 Save the Wave.🙋🏼♂️
Amen!
I love these tips.
I wish I was closer to where you live. I'd take my car to you for some of these services. 😊
Awesome video, man. Very informative and to the point. Liked and Subbed. Nice C5!
Thanks for commenting and glad you enjoyed it!
Your videos are very helpful. Thanks so much.
Glad you enjoy them, thanks for taking the time to comment!
Thank you for these tips. I really appreciated it. I’ve tried the ranger method on my ls2 mx5 with a t56. The problem still exists & im sick of wasting fluid. I’ll try bleeding the slave cylinder because the fluid in my tank is perfectly clear. When I go WOT in high revs I’ll get locked at out gear until the fluid cools. Normal driving you would never notice something was wrong.
I'm convinced it's the pressure plate if you used a stock GM one. can't explain why which bugs the crap out of me but I'm convinced that's what it is especially over 5,900 RPM..
Toys4Life C5 Gotcha, ill do some reading tonight. I guess after I bleed the slave, if the problem still occurs I’ll look into the pressure plate. Thank you
@@theburiasHey I know it’s been a few years for you but I have the exact same problem and plan on replacing my clutch fluid with a higher heat rated performance fluid. I was wondering if bleeding it fixed the issue. I also heard that the stock master cylinder really struggles at high rpm shifts when the car is hot so I might swap it for a tick one.
@yaboisquidy298 I had this exact same problem with mine, upgraded to a monster LT1S2 in a couple years back, put in a new GM slave cylinder, kept the same master cylinder for the clutch and it still works perfect. Shift at 6,500 all the time now. I believe this is mostly a pressure plate issue, and sometimes a slave cylinder issue because of the heat and all of the debris that gets into it down in that dirty location. Good luck!
Doesn’t the remote bleeder have a check valve so you don’t need to close it off before going back up? Scruf’s garage says all bleeders do
I am so blessed to have bought my C5 and the previous owner had a bleed kit installed. The wife and I bled it this evening and only took 10 minutes to do.
IMO anyone w/a C5 and clutch MUST DO the bleed kit mod.
Lucky break there - the other way to do it is like getting a cavity filled....
@@Toys4Life I'm a bit surprised GM didn't provide a easier method. They know full well a larger than normal portion of owners for the Vette are DIY'ers.
@@wydopnthrtl I want to bleed the clutch fluid in my C5. Where can I get the kit you mentioned? Also do you have any tips before I start on this? Thank you!
@@faroukqazi9077 You can access the bleeder from the top if you remove the intake manifold and lay over the top of the engine with some extensions. This is much less labor than trying to access from the bottom.
I don't know the brand that came w/my car. It's a SS braided line and runs along my fuel rail to the front of the engine. Very easy to bleed as my helper actuates the pedal and I open/close just like bleeding brakes.
I'd suggest using DOT 4 fluid and installing the kit (or having it installed by someone who's done it before)
Last week I got the car pretty hot by running Tail of the Dragon 3 times. Clutch did NOT degrade at all using DOT 4 like it did last yr using DOT 3.
You could search and read the many posts on corvette forums --> www.corvetteforum.com/forums/search.php?searchid=84870837
You can get the kit but it only gets installed if you're removing your torque tube. I would do the intake manifold method that I discussed in the video. As the other gentleman just replied, there are a fair number of threads on Corvette form about this as well. Just make sure your patient and leave the beer in the fridge.
Great video. Do you know if it's possible to install a remote bleed line w/o removing the torque tube? It sounds like you probably installed yours when you did the clutch and had everything out.
I do not believe it is possible, unfortunately.
If none of the fluid from the slave cylinder enters the rest of the system then how do the clutch disc dust particles get into the reservoir? Last time I swapped my fluid out, I could see plenty of particles in there and several different websites claim that it's dust from the disc that's created during high load shifting.
Take a peek inside your master cylinder reservoir, it's probably pretty black if it's been a few years.
Great video, but: isn't the point of the Speed Bleeder check valve to eliminate the need to open/close while bleeding, making it a one-person operation? My C6 came with one of these. Bleeding the clutch is on my to-do list before my next track day.
Old habits die hard (:-)
Excellent! Does this solve the sticking clutch problem that I have or do I need to buy the pedal spring? I replaced the clutch 5,000 miles ago and haven’t done anything to it since.
Did you install a remote bleeder?
@@Toys4Life No, I watched a few videos last night. I will take it in steps: first change the fluid, if it doesn’t help, install spring and maybe Tick clutch assembly.
@@markmath2883 What clutch did you put in 5k ago and how many RPM do you spin you LS to?
@@Toys4Life all I can tell you is that it was a heavy duty GM clutch and components costing $2,600. I occasionally run it up to redline but I am pretty easy on the car.
When you had your 1lt-s installed what did you do about shimming the slave cylinder any idea if you needed to shim it at all?
I did it myself. I measured my clearances as directed and mine was within tolerance to be installed without a shim. It's worked fantastic ever since. Stock old master cylinder, new GM slave cylinder.
@@Toys4Life mine appears to be within tolerance as well thanks for the quick reply!
@@jaysrides93 Nice!
Its easier to just keep changing the fluid in the reservoir and use a vacuum pump on the reservoir itself and it will pull all the air out. This is off course if you don't have the Tick bleeder. It can take a few weeks to get all the fluid out and keep it staying clean but after about 6-7 reservoir flushes over a few weeks, that gets all the fluid out even from the slave cylinder.
@Toys4Life is this correct? I have the intake manifold off but don’t see the bleeder screw for the clutch. I’m looking from the passenger side down. I see a little bolt/screw pointing straight back to the rear of car but in the diagram it looks like it should be pointing up…not back like I’m seeeing ( so not sure if this is correct screw to loosen…) any help appreciated as I’m trying to do this from above.
@@georgemills3523 Just get a cheap vacuum pump or syringe and keep emptying that reservoir until you see clean fluid. It will take a few weeks but its easier than dropping the entire exhaust and rear cradle. Brake fluid is cheap
So loosen, push down pedal, and tighten when the pedal is still down?
Yes.
Hey, thanks for the info! My 03 Z06 clutch pedal feel changes after I drive it hard. The engagement gets closer to the floor and it feels a bit spongy without slipping. I think it’s the original clutch with 80,000 miles. Any thoughts? Thanks 😊
Yes, if you need/want to drive it hard then change it.
@@Toys4LifeI don’t have a remote bleeder so I’ve only replaced the reservoir fluid. Do you think the fluid could cause the symptoms?
Unlikely unfortunately - unless it's really black, give it a try a few times with the so-called ranger method. Won't hurt to try, maybe you'll get lucky.
@@Toys4Life Thanks for the help!
@@darrylsjodin7184hey I’m having the same issues and was about to try the ranger method but eventually I’ll add a remote bleeder. What did and didn’t work for you? Thanks
Looks very difficult if you don't have The remote bleeder. Who is going to remove the intake manifold every year? Is it better than nothing if you just suck out the fluid? What is that pump called?
For sure not every year, but if you do happen to start having issues it is worth a shot. Mighty Vac is the name of the pump. Cheers!
@@Toys4Life I have some kind of heavy aftermarket clutch that came on the car. No issues but the fluid does look dirty in the resivoir..
Remote bleeder?
manual calls for dot 4 super
Not my 2003 C5 Owners Manual it calls for DOT 3. What specifically are you looking at? That having been said, I use dot 4.
My 2004 also calls for dot 3, but i use sd4.
Lol I had high hopes till I realized he has a remote bleeder. Shame.
I do discuss how you can bleed it though without one. But yes, remote bleeder is the ticket.