How to bleed a hydraulic clutch in a C4 Corvette. A 1991 ZR-1 in this video. I drained the fluid, filled with new DOT3 brake fluid, then bled the clutch as seen in this video.
Thanks for this video. I would recommend that people be careful with the clutch, though. We used the technique of sliding the foot off and letting the clutch pop back. In the end, the clutch neutral safety switch broke - and this is not a part you can easily replace. I think we were just too rough with it, so be careful out there.
I just did my clutch....1986 c4...I used a hypodermic without needle...filled reservoir to lower line (cool level) positioned hypodermic into the hole in the bottom of the reservoir sucked out the air. Yes dot 3 would fill hypodermic. So replenish dot 3 a little at a time....worked like a charm...
The C4 has the best hydraulic clutches I have experienced. I love a heavy clutch that grabs close to the floor. Before I even start the car, I pump the clutch 3 or 4 times. I learned this from my Uncle Lew who raced Austin Healys and MGs in the fifties at "Lime Rock Raceway" in Conn. I have not opened the clutch reservoir of my C4 yet. I guess if it works, don't fix it... I had my share of Saabs in which you can bleed the clutch the way you did and/or bleed it the old fashion way of bleeding brakes. Close the bleeder, have someone pump the clutch and hold their foot on the pedal while you loosen the bleeder screw. On the Saabs, the clutch will grab near the floor after bleeding for one or two shifts, then you're right back to having it grab high again. Many Saab mechanics have concurred. Back to the C4, I love mine. It's a 1985 Black over grey and in great shape.
Thank you so much for this video! I just replaced the clutch assembly in my '94 C4 and the clutch would not disebgage right after the replacement. I am in the process of bleeding my clutch, I really hope it works otherwise I am inclined to believe that I must have done something wrong as it is my first time replacing a clutch.
@@gregs_garage I was thinking that if a seal went bad, you would never be able to get the bubbles out because each time the clutch is engaged, air will leak into system. Is this correct? Or can air get into a good/sealed system somehow, like a low clutch reservoir?
Yes you can crawl underneath. A 4-post lift is an absolutely amazing investment. If you have a garage space get one. Money well spent and they aren’t that expensive really!
Thanks for this video. I would recommend that people be careful with the clutch, though. We used the technique of sliding the foot off and letting the clutch pop back. In the end, the clutch neutral safety switch broke - and this is not a part you can easily replace. I think we were just too rough with it, so be careful out there.
F that switch
I just did my clutch....1986 c4...I used a hypodermic without needle...filled reservoir to lower line (cool level) positioned hypodermic into the hole in the bottom of the reservoir sucked out the air. Yes dot 3 would fill hypodermic. So replenish dot 3 a little at a time....worked like a charm...
The C4 has the best hydraulic clutches I have experienced. I love a heavy clutch that grabs close to the floor. Before I even start the car, I pump the clutch 3 or 4 times. I learned this from my Uncle Lew who raced Austin Healys and MGs in the fifties at "Lime Rock Raceway" in Conn. I have not opened the clutch reservoir of my C4 yet. I guess if it works, don't fix it... I had my share of Saabs in which you can bleed the clutch the way you did and/or bleed it the old fashion way of bleeding brakes. Close the bleeder, have someone pump the clutch and hold their foot on the pedal while you loosen the bleeder screw. On the Saabs, the clutch will grab near the floor after bleeding for one or two shifts, then you're right back to having it grab high again. Many Saab mechanics have concurred. Back to the C4, I love mine. It's a 1985 Black over grey and in great shape.
good tips, thanks.
Thank you so much for this video! I just replaced the clutch assembly in my '94 C4 and the clutch would not disebgage right after the replacement. I am in the process of bleeding my clutch, I really hope it works otherwise I am inclined to believe that I must have done something wrong as it is my first time replacing a clutch.
Thanks for showing the actual foot action.
that was the best part. Clutch is working great now.
I have to do the slave cylinder in mine… from what I read it’s self bleeding… if you pump the clutch a ton it eventually self bleeds…
Yeah I opened the screw and just let some fluid drain through. It seems fine but not sure I got all the air out. Maybe it self bled.
@@gregs_garage yeah I guess you have to depress the clutch like 100 times and it firms up…. I guess I’ll find out soon!
Thats cool to see a ZR1. Awesome car.
You're much too happy and don't curse. You're associate didn't wisecrack. You didn't spill it. So there's no way this worked.
Mine is all hooked up but won’t suck any brake fluid into the master clutch cylinder or the like that connects to the slave cylinder
open the slave and let it gravity drain for a while
You don't have a funnel???
I have lots but prefer to avoid because they are often dirty with other oils and also you have to clean them!
Did you ever get it bled fully?
I don’t know - but it works fine
@@gregs_garage I was thinking that if a seal went bad, you would never be able to get the bubbles out because each time the clutch is engaged, air will leak into system. Is this correct? Or can air get into a good/sealed system somehow, like a low clutch reservoir?
Any chance on doing that with ramps instead of lift ?
Yes you can crawl underneath. A 4-post lift is an absolutely amazing investment. If you have a garage space get one. Money well spent and they aren’t that expensive really!
Did you bench bleed the clutch master cylinder before installing it?
Nope