The continuous compression of the coils have 2 major downsides, they will endure bump steer and you will get more body roll if you're giving it some B road action. If coils are ever fitted to race cars, they usually have a roll bar installed too, which allows for a progressive feel. Which then begs the question why they never stuck with cones in the first place! I have red dot rubber cone on my mini and it sits very flat on track!
Looks great! When I was a lad Hillman Imp advocates used to joke what a shame it was BMC forgot to put any suspension on the Mini ;). This would have shut them up. I'm a bit surprised, though, that no spring pads are used. Polyurethane spring pads and suspension and other bushes have been all the rage for some years now in the classic car community. I have replaced the rubber pads on the springs in the McPherson struts on my Triumph Stag with polyurethane parts and they are definitely worthwhile. But this system doesn't have even rubber pads.
Very nice vid. Just a thought Is cool shot to have added is a before and after driving down a bumpy road from outside the car and another under the car showing the cone vs Spring in action in the rear.
Hey Mini Guru: I have a 1975 Mk3 RHD from New Zealand, here in California. Just powder coated and beefed up both sub-frames, put in a nasty 1380, and 5 speed. Took out the rubber cones, and went to the red springs from 7ENT with High/Lows. BUT..... once they are installed, and I try to back the nut off and lower the high/lows & springs down for the normal ride height..... the springs and trumpets flop around badly / wildly in the tower..... and if I go over a bump, the springs may not land back in place..... but land cocked off to the side in the tower. This could damage the tower, the tower centering lip, or change the ride. It seems like the tower should have a stiff foam insert, with a slippery cylinder like sleeve that will keep the spring firmly in place..... under pressure, or not. Thoughts? Thanks Doug in Sacramento
Hey Doug, did you get larger rebound buffer bump stops for the front arms? That should help. Question who did you use to ship your car from New Zealand? Cheers. I’m trying to send mine over to California.
Thanks for the video. It looks like you installed the red spring directly into the hi/lo without using the aluminum space plate ..if so, why did you not use the plate?
The audio quality is much better in this video! I assume you had the Mic closer to you when you were working on your car. Because your previous videos seemed a bit quiet. lol 👍
Thank you! I have been working really hard on addressing this. To be honest all it took was turning the mic around to point at my face instead of away from me. :-| I swear sometimes I wonder how I manage to put my shirt on in the morning.
Awesome video.. Been looking forward to part 2 :). Could you post a picture of the car where we can see the space between the wheel and wheel arch? and rim/tire size please
I've noticed everyone doing UA-cam on this topic seems to totally gloss over the grease seals that are on the rear strut ball sockets. What is the trick besides new rubber?
Assuming you are referring to the plastic cups that live under the balls? This part? www.7ent.com/products/knuckle-joint-cup-nylon-21a0423.html?af=cmdiy1959
Hello. :) I'm indecise. I want to update to a spring suspension, but I've herd that the spring is no too good as the rubber cone. Can you give me your feedback? What is your advice?
I have found unless you are resting the weight of the car on the back plate you won't bend it. The idea here was to lift the shock into the hole, the car itself was still supported by the jack stand on the frame. :-)
BTW - at about 11.22 you mention 3.5 mm of thread. Is this proper thread showing beyond the lock-nut? I ask because the complete length of the threaded portion beyond the locknut , including the hexagon part, looks like 3.5 CM.
It's not a specific measurement for everyone, from what I have found every car I have installed suspension on takes a slightly different measurement for whatever reason. :-| Classic Minis for ya!
What is better?? New rubber cones or coil springs. I have Leyland/Austin mini clubman estate 1100 and time to new parts is here. Thanks for your reply.
Personally I a much prefer the springs, the important thing is that they springs are installed correctly because if they are not, you can run into issues that can damage your suspension. Both are good though. I nice set of new cones is a wonderful replacement on the car as well.
Rubber every time. Rubber is self damping and by the doughnut's design they incorporate "rising rate suspension". If you ever fit coil springs, you'll be amazed how much nicer your Mini is.............when you change back again to rubber
There can be very dangerous if you do not take the proper precautions when installing them on the car. Specifically making sure they cannot come unseated and blow out the strut towers. It's all about taking the time to do the install correctly. :-)
I think it's worth pointing this out in your video. I watched part 1 a while ago, maybe you mentioned it there but the fact that they can dislodge at all is unsettling and is pertinent information for an installation video.
Yup and I make a point of mentioning that(in this video) in both the front and the rear details about putting these ones in for that exact reason. You also need to add an additional bigger front bump stop which I outline in this video as well.
I found out I have Hi-Lows installed with coils already... I'll have to get in there and see what kind they are. Any way you can see what kind of spring it is if it isn't just plainly marked?
Generally, the color of the springs indicates the stiffness of the spring. If I remember correctly they used to sell green ones which were super squishy, then red springs which are in the middle as far as stiffness, then the blue which are race spec.
Thanks for the input. In the last 8 months of living with the springs, I would have to disagree with you. The car is much more pleasant to drive around town and on longer hauls. End of the day though it's all subjective to whoever is driving the car.
Fellow Mini owner here. This week I will be installing the solid front subframe mounts I bought. Tower, lower and teardrop. The idea of dropping the subframe down an inch with the engine still in it seems daunting. Is there anything I should know before doing this? Should I buy new Tower Bolts or are they normally still good? I have a 1988 Mini Mayfair .998
I haven't worked with many later single bolt subframe mounts so I am not sure if the bolts will be reusable. I would order a set just to have them though tbh. Regarding the job itself. The main thing is that you triple, and quadruple check ALL of the connections to the motor to make sure you aren't stretching anything. Specifically(but not limited to) the copper brake lines from the master cylinders, oil pressure lines to the gauges(if you have one), throttle cables, take the carb off, take the intake manifold off, upper engine steady, shift rod that extends to the shift knob, and that's just what I can think of off the top of my head. I know there are more I just can think of them. The main thing is you just want to be very careful not to break any connections or lines.
Thanks for the input. I think I will just buy a new set. Don't want to get them out and realise they are bad and have to wait to to receive new parts. As with all my Mini projects I'm going into this knowing I'm going to run into something bad. Thanks again and Big fan of your show.
89 mini sitting on Hi-Los. Recently installed GAZ lowered shocks since my car was bottoming out. Cone springs are new, shocks adjusted to 5 rear, 3 front but still bottoming out (mostly on my side). Any solutions to avoid bottoming out? Car isn't sitting too low.
Well done mate! The audio quality has much improved compared to your older videos! :) What shock absorbers are you using in this setup? Are they shorter to prevent bottom out? Greets from germany ^^
Thank you! I use the GAZ adjustable shocks and I love them. I use the lowered version which can be found here: www.7ent.com/products/shock-absorber-gaz-adjustable-rear-lowered-c-stn237.html That's just the rear but you get the idea.
hi there! Hi/lo´s were added to my Mini but the springs on the back of the car did not fit properly, so rubber cones were installed instead, however I would like to use the springs so it can be evened out with the front, could you please help me out? Thank you in advance!
The way I understand it the cones fit where the wet hydrolastic bags used to sit. You just would have all the left over plumbing running around the car. I have not done a wet to dry conversion before but 7ent would know for sure. Shoot them an email they will be able to answer for sure. www.7ent.com/pages/contact.html
I have seen kits with blue springs, are they softer ? this conversion is definitely something that I will be looking at because the roads up here in the Yukon are generally terrible so smoother ride would be a plus.
My understanding is the company that made those blue springs has discontinued production of the blue ones. Not sure the reasoning but 7ent told me they cant get those blue ones anymore from suppliers.The red is just the right amount of rigid imo.
Paul Arthorne If roads are terrible forget coil conversion. Spring rate on rubber cones is much more progressive than coils. Coils are only good on good tarmac.
Hi Cole, great vid thanks. I've got a 94 spi that came with springs on the front and cones on the rear and nobody seems to know why! Any idea if there's any advantage in running a mix of the two?
Hey! So there are no advantages to running a mixed setup on the car like that, that I am aware of. In fact I feel like it probably would have a more negative impact overall. It might be the previous owner had a spare set of springs and wanted to tart up the car a bit with them on the front? If I was in your shoes I would probably swap out the springs for cones or the other two cones for springs so it matches across the car.
How are the coil springs on the back roads? I love my rubber cones when blasting down the back roads but not so much around town with all the pot holes and the speed bumps. Been thinking of swapping out for these for a while, I've just been hesitant to spend all the money if i don't like them.
So far they have been wonderful on backroads too. I was actually a little surprised by it since I figured they would be crazy bouncy compared to the cones. So far I have been very happy with them on all road types I have driven on.
Los resortes están hechos específicamente para el mini. Los obtuve de Seven Mini Parts aquí en los Estados Unidos. Si se encuentra en América del Norte, también puede recoger un juego. www.7ent.com/products/coil-spring-conversion-w-adjustable-struts-for017.html?af=cmdiy1959
@@alvaronorambuena2471 si los vas a fabricar tu? Quizás quita uno de los conos de la suspensión para que puedas tomar todas las dimensiones, lo difícil será saber cual es los valores de resistencia de lo que tú estás fabricando, contracción y expansión y el peso que están diseñados para cada esquina del vehículo, una opción sería encontrar otro vehículo con resortes del diámetro igual y cortarlos poco apoco haste que encuentres la altura que te guste, suerte
Nope the rear doesn't need them the way the front does. The main thing you want to make sure of on the rear is with your shock absorber attached and the wheel off. Make sure the suspension arm can sag and rest as far down as possible without the spring coming loose.
Thanks! I got a front license plate that read "Bad Wolf" because I'm a huge doctor who fan, and that kind of just stuck. It's called Bad Wolf mini now. :-)
Not always. That's assuming you would be keeping it the stock ride height. If you have ANY plans to lower the car even a little I would look into "lowered" shocks to replace the originals. They are made for a lower car and can handle the bumps and holes you go over more correctly than a set of stock ones would.
The continuous compression of the coils have 2 major downsides, they will endure bump steer and you will get more body roll if you're giving it some B road action. If coils are ever fitted to race cars, they usually have a roll bar installed too, which allows for a progressive feel. Which then begs the question why they never stuck with cones in the first place! I have red dot rubber cone on my mini and it sits very flat on track!
For anyone who is wondering the "bump stop" is called a rebound buffer in minispares. "bump stop" is the upper oblong shaped rubber thingie instead.
Very informative and thanks for your advice at the lunch stop today at Classic Minis ReUnited.
Never realised there was such a big mini family on the western side of the pond
Looks great! When I was a lad Hillman Imp advocates used to joke what a shame it was BMC forgot to put any suspension on the Mini ;). This would have shut them up. I'm a bit surprised, though, that no spring pads are used. Polyurethane spring pads and suspension and other bushes have been all the rage for some years now in the classic car community. I have replaced the rubber pads on the springs in the McPherson struts on my Triumph Stag with polyurethane parts and they are definitely worthwhile. But this system doesn't have even rubber pads.
Hmmm, that's a good question I am not sure why that's not included. I'll do a bit of research as to why it's not part of this spring system.
Very nice vid. Just a thought Is cool shot to have added is a before and after driving down a bumpy road from outside the car and another under the car showing the cone vs Spring in action in the rear.
I totally agree. Unfortunately I don't have any gopros and wasn't wild about mounting my DSLR on the outside or under my car hahaha.
Hey Mini Guru: I have a 1975 Mk3 RHD from New Zealand, here in California. Just powder coated and beefed up both sub-frames, put in a nasty 1380, and 5 speed. Took out the rubber cones, and went to the red springs from 7ENT with High/Lows. BUT..... once they are installed, and I try to back the nut off and lower the high/lows & springs down for the normal ride height..... the springs and trumpets flop around badly / wildly in the tower..... and if I go over a bump, the springs may not land back in place..... but land cocked off to the side in the tower. This could damage the tower, the tower centering lip, or change the ride. It seems like the tower should have a stiff foam insert, with a slippery cylinder like sleeve that will keep the spring firmly in place..... under pressure, or not. Thoughts? Thanks Doug in Sacramento
Hey Doug, did you get larger rebound buffer bump stops for the front arms? That should help.
Question who did you use to ship your car from New Zealand? Cheers. I’m trying to send mine over to California.
Thanks for this video. It is super useful.
Glad it was helpful!
6 hours left!!! Good luck everyone :)
congrats ! your videos are cool and very educational
Thank you for the kind words!
Nice Info And Good explained.Well done,Mate!Cheers!!
Thank you!
Thanks for the vid! Could you do one about setting the timing?
I have had a few requests for this. I need a timing light and haven't bought one yet. It is however on my to-do list. :-)
right the bushes on my old shocks wont come off the mounting point on the rear of the drum....5 hours now and not budging!!!
Please dont put the jack under the rear brake plate....
Thanks for the video. It looks like you installed the red spring directly into the hi/lo without using the aluminum space plate ..if so, why did you not use the plate?
Thanks! This Hilo kit was made specifically for the springs so no spacer plate was required. 👍🏼
The audio quality is much better in this video! I assume you had the Mic closer to you when you were working on your car. Because your previous videos seemed a bit quiet. lol 👍
Thank you! I have been working really hard on addressing this. To be honest all it took was turning the mic around to point at my face instead of away from me. :-| I swear sometimes I wonder how I manage to put my shirt on in the morning.
😂
Awesome video.. Been looking forward to part 2 :).
Could you post a picture of the car where we can see the space between the wheel and wheel arch? and rim/tire size please
Sure I will grab a photo today after work. It's 10am here so I will run out when I get home to grab a shot.
Great pictures, just what i needed.. Think im gonna go for a little higher setting (using 13 inch)
I like your videos but we ain't thick stop over explaining things if we're watching then we have some idea of mechanics
Excellent video
I've noticed everyone doing UA-cam on this topic seems to totally gloss over the grease seals that are on the rear strut ball sockets. What is the trick besides new rubber?
Assuming you are referring to the plastic cups that live under the balls? This part? www.7ent.com/products/knuckle-joint-cup-nylon-21a0423.html?af=cmdiy1959
Please paint the drums 😊
Hello. :) I'm indecise.
I want to update to a spring suspension, but I've herd that the spring is no too good as the rubber cone. Can you give me your feedback? What is your advice?
I suppose that the last job was to straighten the rear brake backplate to stop it rubbing on the drum after being bent by the jack :-)
I have found unless you are resting the weight of the car on the back plate you won't bend it. The idea here was to lift the shock into the hole, the car itself was still supported by the jack stand on the frame. :-)
BTW - at about 11.22 you mention 3.5 mm of thread. Is this proper thread showing beyond the lock-nut? I ask because the complete length of the threaded portion beyond the locknut , including the hexagon part, looks like 3.5 CM.
It's not a specific measurement for everyone, from what I have found every car I have installed suspension on takes a slightly different measurement for whatever reason. :-| Classic Minis for ya!
Thanks- but is it 3.5 mm or 3.5 cm? 3.5 mm is only just over 1/8".
No pics of actual stance post install?
What is better?? New rubber cones or coil springs. I have Leyland/Austin mini clubman estate 1100 and time to new parts is here. Thanks for your reply.
Personally I a much prefer the springs, the important thing is that they springs are installed correctly because if they are not, you can run into issues that can damage your suspension. Both are good though. I nice set of new cones is a wonderful replacement on the car as well.
Rubber every time. Rubber is self damping and by the doughnut's design they incorporate "rising rate suspension".
If you ever fit coil springs, you'll be amazed how much nicer your Mini is.............when you change back again to rubber
I put springs on the mini dont do springs cones are way better for suspensión by far springs sucks
I thought the general consensus was that these springs are death traps.
There can be very dangerous if you do not take the proper precautions when installing them on the car. Specifically making sure they cannot come unseated and blow out the strut towers. It's all about taking the time to do the install correctly. :-)
I think it's worth pointing this out in your video. I watched part 1 a while ago, maybe you mentioned it there but the fact that they can dislodge at all is unsettling and is pertinent information for an installation video.
Yup and I make a point of mentioning that(in this video) in both the front and the rear details about putting these ones in for that exact reason. You also need to add an additional bigger front bump stop which I outline in this video as well.
Minis are death traps, springs are just adding to the experience.! =P
I found out I have Hi-Lows installed with coils already... I'll have to get in there and see what kind they are. Any way you can see what kind of spring it is if it isn't just plainly marked?
Generally, the color of the springs indicates the stiffness of the spring. If I remember correctly they used to sell green ones which were super squishy, then red springs which are in the middle as far as stiffness, then the blue which are race spec.
Rubber cone to spring conversion is always a downgrade in terms of riding, not any upgrade.
Thanks for the input. In the last 8 months of living with the springs, I would have to disagree with you. The car is much more pleasant to drive around town and on longer hauls. End of the day though it's all subjective to whoever is driving the car.
Fellow Mini owner here. This week I will be installing the solid front subframe mounts I bought. Tower, lower and teardrop. The idea of dropping the subframe down an inch with the engine still in it seems daunting. Is there anything I should know before doing this? Should I buy new Tower Bolts or are they normally still good? I have a 1988 Mini Mayfair .998
I haven't worked with many later single bolt subframe mounts so I am not sure if the bolts will be reusable. I would order a set just to have them though tbh. Regarding the job itself. The main thing is that you triple, and quadruple check ALL of the connections to the motor to make sure you aren't stretching anything. Specifically(but not limited to) the copper brake lines from the master cylinders, oil pressure lines to the gauges(if you have one), throttle cables, take the carb off, take the intake manifold off, upper engine steady, shift rod that extends to the shift knob, and that's just what I can think of off the top of my head. I know there are more I just can think of them. The main thing is you just want to be very careful not to break any connections or lines.
Thanks for the input. I think I will just buy a new set. Don't want to get them out and realise they are bad and have to wait to to receive new parts. As with all my Mini projects I'm going into this knowing I'm going to run into something bad. Thanks again and Big fan of your show.
Hi.have you ever tried to fit springs to a Wolseley 1155(ado 16)?If not do you know of someone who has?
89 mini sitting on Hi-Los. Recently installed GAZ lowered shocks since my car was bottoming out. Cone springs are new, shocks adjusted to 5 rear, 3 front but still bottoming out (mostly on my side). Any solutions to avoid bottoming out? Car isn't sitting too low.
greeting from indonesia :) mini lover
Hello over there! What's the weather like right now?
Hi, Nice video. I haces question , i would like to know the meassure of bumper stop, how many centímeters ir should have?
Is this damaging the sub frame. ?
Well done mate! The audio quality has much improved compared to your older videos! :)
What shock absorbers are you using in this setup? Are they shorter to prevent bottom out?
Greets from germany ^^
Thank you! I use the GAZ adjustable shocks and I love them. I use the lowered version which can be found here:
www.7ent.com/products/shock-absorber-gaz-adjustable-rear-lowered-c-stn237.html
That's just the rear but you get the idea.
Which is good rubber or coil?
Hi Cole.can i fit cones or springs to my Wolseley 1155?
hi there! Hi/lo´s were added to my Mini but the springs on the back of the car did not fit properly, so rubber cones were installed instead, however I would like to use the springs so it can be evened out with the front, could you please help me out? Thank you in advance!
Sure I can help out. email me some more details classicminidiy@gmail.com
Thanks a lot! just sent the email appreciate the help!
What type of conversion, from wet to springs do they make?
The way I understand it the cones fit where the wet hydrolastic bags used to sit. You just would have all the left over plumbing running around the car. I have not done a wet to dry conversion before but 7ent would know for sure. Shoot them an email they will be able to answer for sure.
www.7ent.com/pages/contact.html
I have seen kits with blue springs, are they softer ? this conversion is definitely something that I will be looking at because the roads up here in the Yukon are generally terrible so smoother ride would be a plus.
My understanding is the company that made those blue springs has discontinued production of the blue ones. Not sure the reasoning but 7ent told me they cant get those blue ones anymore from suppliers.The red is just the right amount of rigid imo.
Paul Arthorne If roads are terrible forget coil conversion. Spring rate on rubber cones is much more progressive than coils. Coils are only good on good tarmac.
Hi, nice video, i have a questiom , please the red springs are softer than cones?
I would say the red springs are most comparable to rubber cones. They are the best balance between comfort and performance as far as springs go.
Where can I buy all these great suspension parts?
Cole, can i use front cone in the rear?
Hi Cole, great vid thanks. I've got a 94 spi that came with springs on the front and cones on the rear and nobody seems to know why! Any idea if there's any advantage in running a mix of the two?
Hey! So there are no advantages to running a mixed setup on the car like that, that I am aware of. In fact I feel like it probably would have a more negative impact overall. It might be the previous owner had a spare set of springs and wanted to tart up the car a bit with them on the front? If I was in your shoes I would probably swap out the springs for cones or the other two cones for springs so it matches across the car.
Very nice and warm thanks to you that you made the video for coil springs in mini. I'm from Pakistan I need number of your contact
Hey you're very welcome! I don't share my number publicly but I provide support through my patreon live chat.
patreon.com/classicminidiy
How are the coil springs on the back roads? I love my rubber cones when blasting down the back roads but not so much around town with all the pot holes and the speed bumps. Been thinking of swapping out for these for a while, I've just been hesitant to spend all the money if i don't like them.
So far they have been wonderful on backroads too. I was actually a little surprised by it since I figured they would be crazy bouncy compared to the cones. So far I have been very happy with them on all road types I have driven on.
What stiffness springs did you use?
Road red - cmdiy.co/roadredsprings
bonjour ce system se monte t il sur une MGF est quelle est le prix merci
Salut, ce kit ne convient qu'aux Classic Minis d'après ma compréhension.
at 5:20 what is the torque value
hola amigo, cual es la medida del resorte nuevo, es de otro auto o es a pedido.
Saludos, muy buen video
Los resortes están hechos específicamente para el mini. Los obtuve de Seven Mini Parts aquí en los Estados Unidos. Si se encuentra en América del Norte, también puede recoger un juego.
www.7ent.com/products/coil-spring-conversion-w-adjustable-struts-for017.html?af=cmdiy1959
Gracias por la pronta respuesta, soy de chile sudamerica, tienes las medidas diámetro y largo y espesor resorte, así puedo fabricar de forma local.
@@alvaronorambuena2471 si los vas a fabricar tu? Quizás quita uno de los conos de la suspensión para que puedas tomar todas las dimensiones, lo difícil será saber cual es los valores de resistencia de lo que tú estás fabricando, contracción y expansión y el peso que están diseñados para cada esquina del vehículo, una opción sería encontrar otro vehículo con resortes del diámetro igual y cortarlos poco apoco haste que encuentres la altura que te guste, suerte
Does the rear have any sort of bump stop similar to the ones you replaced on the front?
Nope the rear doesn't need them the way the front does. The main thing you want to make sure of on the rear is with your shock absorber attached and the wheel off. Make sure the suspension arm can sag and rest as far down as possible without the spring coming loose.
Nice video mate what name have you give your mini
Thanks! I got a front license plate that read "Bad Wolf" because I'm a huge doctor who fan, and that kind of just stuck. It's called Bad Wolf mini now. :-)
*Waves* from a fellow Doctor Who fan! Got a DW sticker on my Mini :)
Honestly , Cone drives better
My mini doesn’t have shocks. I wonder why? Only cones.
Infomercial
When adding HILOs for the first time do you have to buy new shock absorbers?
Not always. That's assuming you would be keeping it the stock ride height. If you have ANY plans to lower the car even a little I would look into "lowered" shocks to replace the originals. They are made for a lower car and can handle the bumps and holes you go over more correctly than a set of stock ones would.