I simply use the thin,clear plastic film from, let's say a pack of super glue or JB Weld. Or even the clear plastic film from a discarded child's action figure package. It's easy to cut into any window shape. I then simply glue the edges with Elmer's Glue so that if any glue seeps into the window seals, it will dry clear anyway.
Interesting Mike! Now this is how I like to do it. If a particular piece of rolling stock has no interior details I see no reason to have a clear window so what I use for glazing is strips cut from plastic milk jugs. I cut and trim the strips to size and attach them with Woodland Scenics contact cement. I've done this with cabooses, diesels, and passenger cars that have clear plastic windows but no people inside. (Gluing little people inside is a pain and it's even worse if I have to cut the legs off them so they fit. Creeps me out! ) The milk jug plastic's thin enough to let light through with no problems and opaque enough you can't see inside. I like the results with illluminated cars and it even looks pretty good on cars with no lights.
I model in 'HO' scale and i find that video very informative when i came across it now i know what to do when i have to make windows for my model trains.
I have done this with success and the method is fairly easy. Lately I have kept the clear plastic from everything from blister packaging on tools or really anything that comes with clear plastic. I cut window shapes for whatever I need. Buildings engines cabooses etc. cut the windows a bit larger than the opening...lay it in place and then carefully touch a corner of the window material between the window and the car/window opening with a brush loaded with your favorite liquid plastic cement. The liquid will flow around the opening without coating the plastic. Done.
Mike, this is a great tip maybe not for all applications but for most. I have a lot of work on my workbench when I get fatigued I will turn to creating clear windows. Very useful information but that’s what I’m used to from toy train tips and tricks
great stuff!!! I really appreciate the search for low quality options. this will make it so much easier for me to add windows to my locomotives and cabeese. :)
The problem with many plastics and acrylics can be out-gassing, which can be damaging to other plastic that it is attached to. On clear sleeves for protecting vinyl records, many of the older-style sleeves would out-gas and damage the records, over time. I'm not sure how this would apply to clear windows, for your cars and locomotives, but it is something to think about. Either way, higher-end clear plastic doesn't yellow. I've used it for a long time, replacing the old and missing plastic window strips in my AMT passenger cars and I've never had a problem with yellowing. Either way, I like the clear Elmer's, with the clear Scotch Tape. It sounds like a project for my post-war cabeese. An informative and excellent video, as always.
Great tip. I wonder if the tape can be removed after the glue sets up. Also, if you are interested, there will be a train show Saturday 9/14 from 10AM at Der Dutchman in Plain City. Would love to see you there, Mike.
Scotch Purple plaid label is crystal clear with a slightly more matted sheen, they call it "Gift Wrap" tape if this helps anyone trying to use this method.
Hey Mike, thanks for another great video. I have repurposed the clear plastic from packaging for windows in structures and have even glued paper over the smaller packaging and painted to look like a tarped load for flat cars, but curved windshields of locomotives presents a different challenge. I've thought about using the clear plastic bottles from bottled water. When heated with a heat gun they will shirnk to conform to the surface like shrink wrap. I've been wondering if this woud work for cab windshields on some of my Marx diesels. I just bought a case of bottled water in preparation for the collapse so I have plenty to experiment with 😂.
I didn't realize you had HO scale!, I've tried the taping technique it works I mostly Double layer the tape just enough so as the window does not pick up any dirt from outside the train
Cool I just assumed you were primarily O. scale considering all your videos show O. scale Lionel Marx k line mth Menards etx, I wish menards would release some HO gauge locomotives and cars,
Thanks, Mike - there are some interesting indeas there. But I can't help but wonder how many puzzled people there were who clicked on this and wondered: 1) "Why is he talking about software upgrades when he's an O gauge train guy..?" or, 2) "Why is this about toy trains...?! Where's the software upgrade stuff...?!"
I do think that that this would be useful for some applications, but I suspect that in many applications it would be useful simply to cut up plastic fruit boxes. On some of them, there are large flat portions.
Hello Mike. I have a Question. I have an Lionel 1990 GP 9 UP 150. I want to wire it in series. So I need a Diagram how to do. Can or help or point me in the right direction. Thank You.
Not having one in front of me, all I can say is to find where the motors connect to the board. There should be two wires to each motor. Trace the wires and reattach so that the power runs from one board to motor 1, from motor 1 to motor 2, and back to the board. If the motors run opposite directions, flip the wires on one motor.
![How To Add Lionel Uncouplers [Almost] Anywhere! Even On Curves!](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/1m8O57GhkOw/mqdefault.jpg)
![How To Add Lionel Uncouplers [Almost] Anywhere! Even On Curves!](/img/tr.png)
I simply use the thin,clear plastic film from, let's say a pack of super glue or JB Weld. Or even the clear plastic film from a discarded child's action figure package. It's easy to cut into any window shape. I then simply glue the edges with Elmer's Glue so that if any glue seeps into the window seals, it will dry clear anyway.
Thanks for the tip!
Interesting Mike! Now this is how I like to do it.
If a particular piece of rolling stock has no interior details I see no reason to have a clear window so what I use for glazing is strips cut from plastic milk jugs. I cut and trim the strips to size and attach them with Woodland Scenics contact cement. I've done this with cabooses, diesels, and passenger cars that have clear plastic windows but no people inside.
(Gluing little people inside is a pain and it's even worse if I have to cut the legs off them so they fit. Creeps me out! )
The milk jug plastic's thin enough to let light through with no problems and opaque enough you can't see inside. I like the results with illluminated cars and it even looks pretty good on cars with no lights.
I model in 'HO' scale and i find that video very informative when i came across it now i know what to do when i have to make windows for my model trains.
I have done this with success and the method is fairly easy. Lately I have kept the clear plastic from everything from blister packaging on tools or really anything that comes with clear plastic. I cut window shapes for whatever I need. Buildings engines cabooses etc. cut the windows a bit larger than the opening...lay it in place and then carefully touch a corner of the window material between the window and the car/window opening with a brush loaded with your favorite liquid plastic cement. The liquid will flow around the opening without coating the plastic. Done.
Been pondering adding windows to some of my trains good timing with the tip thanks a bunch can't wait to try it 😊👍
Glad to help
Mike, this is a great tip maybe not for all applications but for most. I have a lot of work on my workbench when I get fatigued I will turn to creating clear windows. Very useful information but that’s what I’m used to from toy train tips and tricks
Glad to help
Interesting, will have to try elmers clear.
I really like the glue idea!
Thank you!
Fantastic idea! I tried clear packing tape and it worked great! Thanks!
Glad it helped!
great stuff!!! I really appreciate the search for low quality options. this will make it so much easier for me to add windows to my locomotives and cabeese. :)
Great ideas, thanks! I have done most of these.
This is an idea I'll have to try. Thanks!
I plan on using small microscope glass slides in mine here.
This tip looks interesting. At one time, I was looking at thin glass slide covers for flat windows on cabs, cabooses and structures.
Thanks for the tip.
Thanks for sharing your modeling ideas. Now I've got to get some scotch tape and clear Elmer's glue. Cheers from eastern TN
Have fun!
OUTSTANDING! You always come up with awesome ideas!🙏👍🔥💪🇺🇸❤️
Thank you very much!
Great Idea as usual. Thanks Mike
The problem with many plastics and acrylics can be out-gassing, which can be damaging to other plastic that it is attached to. On clear sleeves for protecting vinyl records, many of the older-style sleeves would out-gas and damage the records, over time. I'm not sure how this would apply to clear windows, for your cars and locomotives, but it is something to think about. Either way, higher-end clear plastic doesn't yellow. I've used it for a long time, replacing the old and missing plastic window strips in my AMT passenger cars and I've never had a problem with yellowing. Either way, I like the clear Elmer's, with the clear Scotch Tape. It sounds like a project for my post-war cabeese. An informative and excellent video, as always.
Great tip. It's clear to understand too 😂
Great video Mike, as usual. Enjoy your trip. Just remember, steam engines have a "tender" behind! :)
Thanks Mike, this is what I've been looking for.
Great conversation
Well done! Great idea! Thanks!
Glad you liked it!
Thanks for sharing Mike. Super smart tip! 👏
Great tip. I wonder if the tape can be removed after the glue sets up.
Also, if you are interested, there will be a train show Saturday 9/14 from 10AM at Der Dutchman in Plain City. Would love to see you there, Mike.
I tried removing the tape with mixed success. Sometimes it worked, other times it warped or tore the window. Work in progress.
Great idea!
Thanks!
Excellent 😊
BRILLIANT! 🚂
Thanks!
Scotch Purple plaid label is crystal clear with a slightly more matted sheen, they call it "Gift Wrap" tape if this helps anyone trying to use this method.
I have a custom 3d printed locomotive that I have been racking my brain on how to add windows. Going to give this a try. Thanks!
GREAT TIP!!!! Thans!
You're welcome!
Good job (again!)
Thanks 😋
Nice tip! Thanks
Happy to help!
@@ToyTrainTipsAndTricks That's why I subscribed!
Hey Mike, thanks for another great video. I have repurposed the clear plastic from packaging for windows in structures and have even glued paper over the smaller packaging and painted to look like a tarped load for flat cars, but curved windshields of locomotives presents a different challenge. I've thought about using the clear plastic bottles from bottled water. When heated with a heat gun they will shirnk to conform to the surface like shrink wrap. I've been wondering if this woud work for cab windshields on some of my Marx diesels. I just bought a case of bottled water in preparation for the collapse so I have plenty to experiment with 😂.
Interesting. Thanks for sharing!
Marx guy here, I slice up milk cartons and using long stripes apply to back side with Carpenders glue.
Great! If that works!
I use plastic cut to fit inside paint flat white or light grey glue them in and call it good
You can use mylar cut and glued.
I didn't realize you had HO scale!, I've tried the taping technique it works I mostly Double layer the tape just enough so as the window does not pick up any dirt from outside the train
I have a handful of HO models that were given to me. My father and I had a LARGE HO layout in the 1980s.
Cool I just assumed you were primarily O. scale considering all your videos show O. scale Lionel Marx k line mth Menards etx, I wish menards would release some HO gauge locomotives and cars,
Thanks, Mike - there are some interesting indeas there. But I can't help but wonder how many puzzled people there were who clicked on this and wondered:
1) "Why is he talking about software upgrades when he's an O gauge train guy..?"
or,
2) "Why is this about toy trains...?! Where's the software upgrade stuff...?!"
Well, I think the thumbnail took care of most of that. ;-)
Shouldn't some of the windows on those diesel switchers be left open for motor ventilation?
Next time you buy wiper blades for your car, save the plastic packaging. Carve carefully. Attach carefully. Enjoy.
I did the same with the plastic transparent packaging from miller engineering signs!
And me
😎
I do think that that this would be useful for some applications, but I suspect that in many applications it would be useful simply to cut up plastic fruit boxes. On some of them, there are large flat portions.
I like trains😂😂😂
It is hard to make these funny comments I need to think a lot
.😠
Hello Mike. I have a Question. I have an Lionel 1990 GP 9 UP 150. I want to wire it in series. So I need a Diagram how to do. Can or help or point me in the right direction. Thank You.
Not having one in front of me, all I can say is to find where the motors connect to the board. There should be two wires to each motor. Trace the wires and reattach so that the power runs from one board to motor 1, from motor 1 to motor 2, and back to the board. If the motors run opposite directions, flip the wires on one motor.
How about using real glass would that work?, flat sheets of glass glass cutter to cut to size? keep up the good work.❤🚂🚂🚂
That would be awfully thick, I think.
I used to transparent plastic from q-tip packages to make Windows can I use hot glue to secure them