I have a question. Iim new to window glazing. ’ve used Sarco and Dap and even after a wee or 10 days of drying outside in the California sun the product is still soft and I can push a finger indentation into the side. Will it ever harden?
oil putty can take weeks to form a skin,,leaving the underneath pliant,so it expands and contracts without cracking or breaking the seal with glass and the wood seam,, oil putty stuff you used to good results will often dry out,adter storage,,it can be softened up with a small dallop or 2 of lemon furniture oil,using a drill w a paint mixer swirl the stuff around,beat it until soft again
Sarco's Dual glaze is for applying glaze outside and Sarco's Type M is for installing glaze inside (but then of course you can install the windows outside after curing and painting). I have a tub of each and they have lasted for many many years on the shelf as I put saran over them when I'm done and then I dribble on a little bit of BLO (boiled linseed oil). As long as they are soft and workable, they are still good.
What brand would you suggest for a stained glass window?! I used the 33 on the reg window but the next to reglaze is stained glass and the 33 says to not use on that.
Ouh I wasn't worried about coloring the glaze.....it was more is it safe to use on stained glass. I have actually changed to the silicone version of the dap 33 to use for the stained glass window....the reg window took over two weeks to dry and it's half thru Oct that stuff isn't gonna dry fast enough to be painted before first snow.
The first glaze!? Do I have to come back and sand it down? I used a little bit this morning thinking it's just like spackling. Some parts of the window are kinda beat up. They mainly just want me to make it look a little better. Without tearing everything apart
Yes, Sarco actually has different tints that can be added for stained woodwork or when painting dark color windows to decrease the amount of coats needed.
Does the wood frame have to be primed with oil based paint before it’s glazed with all of these? I’m having issue with the dap33 that you require the oil based primer and that would mean you also need oil based paint on top? I feel stuck in my project on this issue ? I was told not to use dap33 and returned it I’m trying to reglaze with windows in place ,please help
There are a number of different option for the glass bed; boiled linseed oil, boiled linseed oil with turpentine, medium or long dry oils, or tannin blocking acrylic primers. When using Sarco’s DualGlaze or Type-M, you do not need to use an oil based primer or paint. You can paint the glazing with 1/16”-1/8” lapped onto the glass. We prefer quality modified urethane paints like Dunn Edwards AristoShield, Sherwin Williams Emerald Trim Urethane, or equivalent.
The Window Sash Bible recommends 50/50 boiled linseed oil and turpentine for the rebates (glass beds) to prevent the wood from sucking the oils out of the putty. Also recommends slow-drying oil based primer for the first coat on the putty and sash for its exceptional adhesion.
For best practice, yes, the glazing rebate can be treated with any of the following first; • 100% acrylic primer • Long dry oil primer • Tung oil (check out Sutherland Welles) • Boiled linseed oil
I started using Crawford’s putty. In my experience it works great, and does a nice job and is ready to paint in a week. Sherwin-Williams glazing was a gooey disaster.
Thanks! Ordered the Sarco type M for an old window I’m putting in my chicken coop. Also, you had an echo behind you so the people telling you to stop yelling…don’t let the bastards get you down!
I've used DAP and hated life. Currently using the Glazol and I find it must easier to use. Need to hold it in your hand for some time to keep it warm like most other brands. I also keep the can in the sun for ten minutes right before I use it to help soften the product. So far I haven't had any issues for over 20 years. Unfortunately I have to glaze these old windows on site without removing them. I do shut the storm windows to protect my work from most of the elements while waiting for a skin to develop before prime and paint. I really want to use the Sarco-Type M, but in shop only stops me from buying.
Plus Glazol lasts by not getting brittle with age. DAP gets brittle in the first year. I have seen it crack and lift when not painted within only 9 months.
sarco oil based is excellent stuff the bucket I ordered arrived ok I did a couple windows with it,it then sat unused for a year,a hard crust formed abt a half inch when opened again for use,this I removed,the remainder ,80 percent of it was still uneven and a but dried out,I added some furniture lemon oil mixing the bucket with a qtr in beater with the drill until it got restored to the right consistency
We love using Sarco. In between uses you can cover the top with water, this will keep the glazing putty moist without absorbing into the oil-based putty.
Yes, Sarco does make their DualGlaze; however, we’ve had approval from Sarco to use Type-M on the exterior as long as it is not in direct summer sun on a steel window. The dry time on DualGlaze is difficult for running a business, but is perfect for use in steel windows and for DIY use.
When doing maintenance painting, which is what we recommend to most homeowners, failed glazing can be removed with a putty knife, 5-in-1 or a rolling chisel.
I use only Sarco Dual Glaze putty because the extra-long time that it takes to skin over prior to painting means that it is VERY slow to dry out when exposed to the weather. The old timers use it because it can give more than a decade of additional service life beyond what Type M can. The window restoration businesses tend to use Type M so they can turn over their jobs faster. My house’s windows may get re-puttied only every 50-90 years so I want the putty to LAST. Waiting a couple extra weeks while the Dual Glaze skins over is well worth it.
Thanks for the insight! You’re right, DualGlaze is the best practice for in the field use. After conversations with the Sarsfields that own Sarco, we’ve been given approval to use Type-M for in-field application, within a few parameters. After about 5,000 windows, we’ve only had a handful of putty failures, and those were related to inappropriate paints, primers and a short period of using AquaGlaze before we knew about Sarco. Thanks again for your insight!
I reopened my container of DAP 33 and it's dried out. (It was in storage for several years.) Could you comment on the shelf life of these products? Thank you
I can't speak to shelf life because I never keep it very long. What I can say is that oil-based glazing needs to be held in a cool, dry place. In our shop, when we store the cans, we cover the top in cling wrap then seal the lid tightly.
Using caulk instead of putty is a great way to kill your windows. They trap moisture and cause rot, and are very difficult to reverse. Window putty solves all those problems.
Sarco Type M is the way to go - no ifs ands or buts. Sarco Dual Glaze is great but takes a big too long to cure. The other glazing putties simple don't compare to Sarco.
@@peanutaxis Sarco's dual glaze is for applying glaze outside and Type M is for installing glaze inside but then you can install the windows outside after curing and painting. I have a tub of each and they have lasted for many many years on the shelf as I put saran over them when I'm done and then I dribble on a little bit of BLO (boiled linseed oil).
I've used the Red Devil product. I don't know what conditions yield a 24-hr skin time as it took 4-6 weeks to skin over at 65-70F, which is similar to Dap 33. Tangent: I recognize that yellow tape. It's commonly used to seal lab chemicals to reduce the infiltration of air and moisture to the container and prevent loosing of the cap.
AquaGlaze used to be our “in a pinch” or emergency glass replace go to, but it’s now been discontinued. It’s become that only one that’s also locally available for most is tough to use too.
DAP stands for DAP Ain't Permanent. Never saw a putty dry out, crack, and lift as quickly as DAP. Who cares if it's easy to use? The UGL Glazol does NOT dry out to brittleness. You can soften it by putting it in a plastic bag and soaking the bag in hot water. Oil paint can go over UGL in 24 hours. (I wait longer regardless)
I have a question. Iim new to window glazing. ’ve used Sarco and Dap and even after a wee or 10 days of drying outside in the California sun the product is still soft and I can push a finger indentation into the side. Will it ever harden?
It hardens very slow. You can paint it while it is still soft.
oil putty can take weeks to form a skin,,leaving the underneath pliant,so it expands and contracts without cracking or breaking the seal with glass and the wood seam,, oil putty stuff you used to good results will often dry out,adter storage,,it can be softened up with a small dallop or 2 of lemon furniture oil,using a drill w a paint mixer swirl the stuff around,beat it until soft again
Sarco's Dual glaze is for applying glaze outside and Sarco's Type M is for installing glaze inside (but then of course you can install the windows outside after curing and painting). I have a tub of each and they have lasted for many many years on the shelf as I put saran over them when I'm done and then I dribble on a little bit of BLO (boiled linseed oil). As long as they are soft and workable, they are still good.
Hey Caroline, Type M is commonly used by professionals for exterior use with approval by Sarco. We’ve paint 5000 windows without failure using Sarco.
Have you tried sashco big stretch someone at the store said they used it what do you think about it
As a glazing compound, this is not something we would recommend. For caulking purposes on an old home, it’s a great choice though.
What brand would you suggest for a stained glass window?! I used the 33 on the reg window but the next to reglaze is stained glass and the 33 says to not use on that.
@@minraset82 You can add dry pigment to Sarco to blend on stained windows.
Ouh I wasn't worried about coloring the glaze.....it was more is it safe to use on stained glass. I have actually changed to the silicone version of the dap 33 to use for the stained glass window....the reg window took over two weeks to dry and it's half thru Oct that stuff isn't gonna dry fast enough to be painted before first snow.
Don't shout at me.
The first glaze!? Do I have to come back and sand it down? I used a little bit this morning thinking it's just like spackling. Some parts of the window are kinda beat up. They mainly just want me to make it look a little better. Without tearing everything apart
is it possible to add universal coloring to the compound to match the woodwork that was stained previously?
Yes, Sarco actually has different tints that can be added for stained woodwork or when painting dark color windows to decrease the amount of coats needed.
Does the wood frame have to be primed with oil based paint before it’s glazed with all of these?
I’m having issue with the dap33 that you require the oil based primer and that would mean you also need oil based paint on top?
I feel stuck in my project on this issue ?
I was told not to use dap33 and returned it
I’m trying to reglaze with windows in place ,please help
There are a number of different option for the glass bed; boiled linseed oil, boiled linseed oil with turpentine, medium or long dry oils, or tannin blocking acrylic primers.
When using Sarco’s DualGlaze or Type-M, you do not need to use an oil based primer or paint. You can paint the glazing with 1/16”-1/8” lapped onto the glass. We prefer quality modified urethane paints like Dunn Edwards AristoShield, Sherwin Williams Emerald Trim Urethane, or equivalent.
The Window Sash Bible recommends 50/50 boiled linseed oil and turpentine for the rebates (glass beds) to prevent the wood from sucking the oils out of the putty. Also recommends slow-drying oil based primer for the first coat on the putty and sash for its exceptional adhesion.
Need to pretreat bare wood with linseed oil first?
For best practice, yes, the glazing rebate can be treated with any of the following first;
• 100% acrylic primer
• Long dry oil primer
• Tung oil (check out Sutherland Welles)
• Boiled linseed oil
Hi
In side of my house at window need to replace can you send me a video that I watched
Thanks
I started using Crawford’s putty. In my experience it works great, and does a nice job and is ready to paint in a week. Sherwin-Williams glazing was a gooey disaster.
Thanks! Ordered the Sarco type M for an old window I’m putting in my chicken coop. Also, you had an echo behind you so the people telling you to stop yelling…don’t let the bastards get you down!
Thanks! We know that our audio was poor at this time and made improvements. Their comments also drive engage so it actually helps!
I've used DAP and hated life. Currently using the Glazol and I find it must easier to use. Need to hold it in your hand for some time to keep it warm like most other brands. I also keep the can in the sun for ten minutes right before I use it to help soften the product. So far I haven't had any issues for over 20 years. Unfortunately I have to glaze these old windows on site without removing them. I do shut the storm windows to protect my work from most of the elements while waiting for a skin to develop before prime and paint.
I really want to use the Sarco-Type M, but in shop only stops me from buying.
Plus Glazol lasts by not getting brittle with age. DAP gets brittle in the first year. I have seen it crack and lift when not painted within only 9 months.
DAP not good???
Dude, use a clip-on microphone. Eliminates echo and bad audio. Your video deserves it.
We’ve stepped up our audio game over the last couple years. Some early videos sure needed something different!
sarco oil based is excellent stuff the bucket I ordered arrived ok I did a couple windows with it,it then sat unused for a year,a hard crust formed abt a half inch when opened again for use,this I removed,the remainder ,80 percent of it was still uneven and a but dried out,I added some furniture lemon oil mixing the bucket with a qtr in beater with the drill until it got restored to the right consistency
We love using Sarco. In between uses you can cover the top with water, this will keep the glazing putty moist without absorbing into the oil-based putty.
Appreciate the video, I've always hated glazing and I hate Dap 33. I am going to try Sarco, fyi Sarco also makes double glaze for outdoor use
Yes, Sarco does make their DualGlaze; however, we’ve had approval from Sarco to use Type-M on the exterior as long as it is not in direct summer sun on a steel window.
The dry time on DualGlaze is difficult for running a business, but is perfect for use in steel windows and for DIY use.
Now review of the DAP that comes in a tube?
Our Review: Don’t use it. After using it, we actually thought to ourselves, “If this is our only option, we aren’t restoring windows anymore.”
I’ve used dap 33
Can glazing putty be removed with a knife if i wanted to?
When doing maintenance painting, which is what we recommend to most homeowners, failed glazing can be removed with a putty knife, 5-in-1 or a rolling chisel.
I use only Sarco Dual Glaze putty because the extra-long time that it takes to skin over prior to painting means that it is VERY slow to dry out when exposed to the weather. The old timers use it because it can give more than a decade of additional service life beyond what Type M can. The window restoration businesses tend to use Type M so they can turn over their jobs faster. My house’s windows may get re-puttied only every 50-90 years so I want the putty to LAST. Waiting a couple extra weeks while the Dual Glaze skins over is well worth it.
Thanks for the insight! You’re right, DualGlaze is the best practice for in the field use.
After conversations with the Sarsfields that own Sarco, we’ve been given approval to use Type-M for in-field application, within a few parameters.
After about 5,000 windows, we’ve only had a handful of putty failures, and those were related to inappropriate paints, primers and a short period of using AquaGlaze before we knew about Sarco.
Thanks again for your insight!
I reopened my container of DAP 33 and it's dried out. (It was in storage for several years.) Could you comment on the shelf life of these products? Thank you
I can't speak to shelf life because I never keep it very long. What I can say is that oil-based glazing needs to be held in a cool, dry place. In our shop, when we store the cans, we cover the top in cling wrap then seal the lid tightly.
Great video! What about Aqua Glaze or Dual Glaze?
We use Aqua Glaze for small repairs and Dual Glaze for large field projects.
Harware stores in my area dont even sell glazing anymore. Everone uses those tubes of silocone or polyurethane
They’re going away rapidly! You can still have it shipped from our store though.
Using caulk instead of putty is a great way to kill your windows. They trap moisture and cause rot, and are very difficult to reverse. Window putty solves all those problems.
Sarco Type M is the way to go - no ifs ands or buts. Sarco Dual Glaze is great but takes a big too long to cure. The other glazing putties simple don't compare to Sarco.
@@peanutaxis Sarco's dual glaze is for applying glaze outside and Type M is for installing glaze inside but then you can install the windows outside after curing and painting. I have a tub of each and they have lasted for many many years on the shelf as I put saran over them when I'm done and then I dribble on a little bit of BLO (boiled linseed oil).
@@peanutaxis sarco m type its base is soybean oil
I've used the Red Devil product. I don't know what conditions yield a 24-hr skin time as it took 4-6 weeks to skin over at 65-70F, which is similar to Dap 33.
Tangent: I recognize that yellow tape. It's commonly used to seal lab chemicals to reduce the infiltration of air and moisture to the container and prevent loosing of the cap.
Informative video but please stop yelling at us. Thanks.
Red devil was the worst I've ever is. I was in a pinch and that's all I could get
AquaGlaze used to be our “in a pinch” or emergency glass replace go to, but it’s now been discontinued. It’s become that only one that’s also locally available for most is tough to use too.
how it holds up after 20 years.. so yeah.. this test kinda means nada..
I’m yelling at my dog all day today. I just feel the need to yell for some reason.
We’re just so excited about window restoration!
DAP stands for DAP Ain't Permanent. Never saw a putty dry out, crack, and lift as quickly as DAP. Who cares if it's easy to use? The UGL Glazol does NOT dry out to brittleness. You can soften it by putting it in a plastic bag and soaking the bag in hot water. Oil paint can go over UGL in 24 hours. (I wait longer regardless)
I’m not sure that there are too many who are fans of DAP. We are huge fans of Sarco and have been using it exclusively now.
Why do you have to yell. Bob Villa never had to do that.
No, he just says insipid things like "It's good to have you Home Again!"
linseed putty is the best glazing wouldn't consider anything else.
Sarco is our standard for all projects except an emergency glass replacement.
I would switch to decaf immediately if I were you.
I'm yelling but I don't know why.
Hey Man, What are you yelling about? Geez...
Thanks for the feedback... I get that a lot!
Why do you have to yell?
@@Mag_Aoidh We are just really passionate about window glazing!
This guy talks in all caps
Sorry. We forgot caps lock was on. 🤣
why is he yelling at me?
Sorry, we get really excited about restoration!
do you have to SHOUT!?
We are VERY excited about window restoration!
Why are you shouting? ;)
We just so excited about window glazing!