Excellent job, you're the first person I've ever seen who can metalfinish out a mig weld to such a high level. I tried for several years, but eventually gave up and bought a tig. Keep up the good work!
I made a comment about you to Kyle other day he likes your work...im going to get morskie to give you a shout out as well...you do excellent work you deserve more subscribers
I’ve performed the two corner cab replacement like you have. However on our 1948 3100 series truck the inside lower half of both sides are closed in creating an access issue to the outer cab surfaces thus you can’t use hammer dolly technique.
Excellent video on technique! If you get time, I would like to see how you approach a inside corner versus a outside corner. Those always seem to cause me a lot of problems. Thanks a bunch!
Morgan, I'm on another continent (Europe) so it takes a good 18 hours to catch up. If you're reviewing who's watching, you should give it at least a full day or so for a good estimate of the numbers. I'd like to recommend that you put some background music in your videos (especially if you speed up the action). I said the same to Kyle Carter when he was afraid to do so because of copyright infringement, so I suggested putting on songs that are over a century old (like Beethoven or Mozart) that way it's considered public domain.
I do put background music on my videos, I guess on some it’s quite low but it does come through on stills and the time lapse clips. Thanks for watching and for the comment. Cheers
Thank you, been looking forward to this one. Even though nothing there was new to me (except the excavator tooth dolly!) I still lack the skill and patience to get that finish. I always end up with sunken edges around the welds. Hammer and dolly definitely helps but unless I have enough metal there to really sand/file it out I can never totally remove them. It might be the quality of my welds too of course. It is funny how once you get into metal shaping you can't help looking at every decent lump of metal as a potential dolly. Old clothes irons (the heat on the fire kind) are often good.
Thanks for explaining your hammer & dolly work, and how you grind the welds down. At 72 and fixing rust on my 49 3 window "basket" it is very helpful. I'm making my kick panels out of some old metal school desks that have "beads" already in them, not a perfect match but look good and the metal is 18 guage, and plans for truck is to be a "driver". Our you are using .023 wire?
Hi Morgan. Great video, again! Questions: do your MIG welds ever break or crack when you are planishing, or how do you control that risk? Also, flapper wheels can generate a lot of heat…. Doesn’t seem like you worry much about warping from this. I’ve been taking time outs to let heat dissipate. Am I over-thinking this one?
I haven’t had much trouble with welds cracking, I think if you avoid over working the weld by grinding it down close to the surface first before planishing it helps a lot. I don’t put a lot of pressure on the work when grinding and I take my time and don’t dwell in one spot for to long. Having a fresh disk keeps the heat down too, I find that once the paper starts to get worn out I tend to apply more pressure and yes it does create a lot of heat. Thanks for the watch and the questions.
Does your weld penetration on the back side interfere with the dolly? I’m doing a patch right now, and it seems like I need to grind the backside down before the dolly can be effective. Thanks.
Sometimes it does but in this case it wasn’t a problem, usually the weld area is shrunk so the extra material goes into expanding the weld effected zone. I generally don’t worry about the back side unless it’s in an area that will be seen. If you watch at around 25 and 34 minutes in, I explain what’s going on with the weld seem
@@WildWestGarageThanks. I understand what you’re saying. I just wasn’t sure if the smoothness of the backside affects your dolly. Mine is bumpy on the back from the penetration, so the dolly’s contact area isn’t great.
I do have a file but I rarely use it but have picked it up more lately. The file is something I only use to find high spots and if I was going for a bare metal finish it would be a tool of choice.
Flap discs take for ever . Spot weld 3” grinding discs work much faster…….then polish it with a flap disc. Grinding discs are made to grind on the flat side of it not the edge. You will see the difference using a weld grinding disc . It’s a no brainer
Excellent job, you're the first person I've ever seen who can metalfinish out a mig weld to such a high level. I tried for several years, but eventually gave up and bought a tig. Keep up the good work!
Thanks Kyle.
Perhaps U should learn to weld! If U cant mig weld doubt U can Tig weld any better! That or U have no clue how to grind anything
Moving on up!! Great work my friend!!
Thank you!
Man what a good ideal with bucket tooth im a mechanic been around dirt equipment my whole life and never thought of that...
I’ve got a few big worn out ones that I use as well.
I made a comment about you to Kyle other day he likes your work...im going to get morskie to give you a shout out as well...you do excellent work you deserve more subscribers
Thank you!
nice work buddy , thanks for letting us hangout and learn something !!
Hi Morgan great work.... xacoupeguy here in Australia gets some "interesting" rust repairs
Nice work Morgan!
Keep it up I’m working on a 1950 Chevy 5 window this is very encouraging!
Glad I can help
Thank you. Nice finish.
I’ve performed the two corner cab replacement like you have. However on our 1948 3100 series truck the inside lower half of both sides are closed in creating an access issue to the outer cab surfaces thus you can’t use hammer dolly technique.
Excellent video on technique! If you get time, I would like to see how you approach a inside corner versus a outside corner. Those always seem to cause me a lot of problems. Thanks a bunch!
Morgan, I'm on another continent (Europe) so it takes a good 18 hours to catch up. If you're reviewing who's watching, you should give it at least a full day or so for a good estimate of the numbers. I'd like to recommend that you put some background music in your videos (especially if you speed up the action). I said the same to Kyle Carter when he was afraid to do so because of copyright infringement, so I suggested putting on songs that are over a century old (like Beethoven or Mozart) that way it's considered public domain.
I do put background music on my videos, I guess on some it’s quite low but it does come through on stills and the time lapse clips. Thanks for watching and for the comment. Cheers
Nice work
Thank you, been looking forward to this one. Even though nothing there was new to me (except the excavator tooth dolly!) I still lack the skill and patience to get that finish. I always end up with sunken edges around the welds. Hammer and dolly definitely helps but unless I have enough metal there to really sand/file it out I can never totally remove them. It might be the quality of my welds too of course. It is funny how once you get into metal shaping you can't help looking at every decent lump of metal as a potential dolly. Old clothes irons (the heat on the fire kind) are often good.
Thanks for explaining your hammer & dolly work, and how you grind the welds down. At 72 and fixing rust on my 49 3 window "basket" it is very helpful. I'm making my kick panels out of some old metal school desks that have "beads" already in them, not a perfect match but look good and the metal is 18 guage, and plans for truck is to be a "driver". Our you are using .023 wire?
You are welcome. Yes .023
Its coming out nice ,what gauge sheet metal did you use to make the repairs.
18, it’s a little harder to work with when forming but more forgiving when it comes time to weld and finish.
Hi Morgan. Great video, again! Questions: do your MIG welds ever break or crack when you are planishing, or how do you control that risk? Also, flapper wheels can generate a lot of heat…. Doesn’t seem like you worry much about warping from this. I’ve been taking time outs to let heat dissipate. Am I over-thinking this one?
I haven’t had much trouble with welds cracking, I think if you avoid over working the weld by grinding it down close to the surface first before planishing it helps a lot. I don’t put a lot of pressure on the work when grinding and I take my time and don’t dwell in one spot for to long. Having a fresh disk keeps the heat down too, I find that once the paper starts to get worn out I tend to apply more pressure and yes it does create a lot of heat. Thanks for the watch and the questions.
Does your weld penetration on the back side interfere with the dolly? I’m doing a patch right now, and it seems like I need to grind the backside down before the dolly can be effective. Thanks.
Sometimes it does but in this case it wasn’t a problem, usually the weld area is shrunk so the extra material goes into expanding the weld effected zone. I generally don’t worry about the back side unless it’s in an area that will be seen. If you watch at around 25 and 34 minutes in, I explain what’s going on with the weld seem
@@WildWestGarageThanks. I understand what you’re saying. I just wasn’t sure if the smoothness of the backside affects your dolly. Mine is bumpy on the back from the penetration, so the dolly’s contact area isn’t great.
Notice you do not use a file at all. Is that just in this instance, or SOP for whst ever you metal finish?
I do have a file but I rarely use it but have picked it up more lately. The file is something I only use to find high spots and if I was going for a bare metal finish it would be a tool of choice.
The original steel is 19 gauge.
🙄 I meant 19
Not very easy to come by though.
Flap discs take for ever . Spot weld 3” grinding discs work much faster…….then polish it with a flap disc. Grinding discs are made to grind on the flat side of it not the edge. You will see the difference using a weld grinding disc . It’s a no brainer
Thanks, I’ll give that a try next time